| |
| Q 6061:I
have just bought a Portuguese limestone fire surround and need to
seal/protect it from household spillages, can you recommend a product
that will not discolour it, or any product atall? Carrie, Dec 19,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carrie: Yes, of course! Get a bottle of my "world renown"
MB-4, impregnator for stone! , Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6060:
If this
is an appropriate answer source, would you please advise me on the
care and cleaning of a very old stone sculpture? The statue is said
to be limestone. It is black in color, some places shiny and some
not. In the cracks and crevices of the carving, there appears to be
dirt/dust, which I think takes away from the carving detail. The antique
dealer thought it was fine in its present state. The statue has been
outside for many years. Will it hurt it to bring it in to central
heating? Your advice will be very much appreciated. Margaret, Dec
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Margaret: Bringing the statue indoor to a central heat environment
won't hurt it a bit. About the best cleaning techniques, I hope that
my colleague and dear friend JVC will chime in on this one. It's his
cup of tea all right! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
R2:
Margaret,
I was kind of avoiding this one , but since my friend Maurizio has
handed it off to me, here goes. First, you need to determine if the
black color is the actual color of the stone ( unusual for a limestone,
but not unheard of ) or the result of a weathering patina on the stone
from being outdoors for years.I'm betting on the later, and common
household bleach can help lighten the color up. It probably will not
bring back the natural color of the stone since the patina is actually
a surface layer that has been chemically and physically altered.
Think of it as natures way of protecting the stone by putting a suit
of armor on it. As for the dust and grime in the little crevasse,
get some of Maurizio's stone cleaner, and a SOFT bristled brush and
work at it. Under no circumstances allow anyone to use a high pressure
washer or any acidic or other harsh cleaners on the stone. I'm also
betting that the shiny areas are places where people touched, and
rubbed the sculpture over the years, while the duller areas were not.
Putting the piece indoors in a central heat and cooling situation
can not possible hurt the stone-- after all, it has survived the temperature
changes of whatever climate it was in for a long time. However, I
must say that all of this is merely speculation, and without actually
seeing the piece I am hesitant to give any advice other than getting
a hold of a true stone
restoration professional in your area, and having them look at your
sculpture. Good luck, JVC |
| |
| Q 6058:I
have Uba Tuba (spelling) granite in my kitchen. It never looks clean
after I wash it. can't seem to find a product that doesn't streak.
Do I have to do somehting to the granite to seal it? I've had it for
4 years and it does have a glossy shine to it...the installers never
told me to do anything special to it. Lindia, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Lindia: "...the installers never told me to do anything special
to it." Why am I not surprised? :-) You do NOT want to seal your
Ubatuba. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6057:
I am in
the process of having travertine floors laid in my home. Your site
was very informative. Thank you. They are grouting the kitchen tomorrow.
I have 24 x 24 unfilled travertine. Would you suggest sealing the
floor? I am very picky and clean. I am nervous with the many number
of questions on your web site regarding scratches on the floor. I
have a 6 year old boy, any suggestions? Thank you very much!
Sim, Dec
19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Sim: If you are very picky about hygiene, you do NOT want unfilled
travertine in any of your floors! Once you decided on a different
stone (or a different finish: honed and filled travertine is quite
all right) Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6056:
My husband and I are purchasing a new home and recently had Baltic
Brown granite countertops installed in the kitchen. We noticed a horizontal
hairline crack along the edge of one piece and a lot of what seems
to be small dings and rough spots. The representative keeps telling
us that this is typical of Baltic Brown and none of these issues mean
it is a defective slab. He offered to put a sealant on the slab-not
sure what this is going to do and I am not sure if Baltic Brown even
requires a sealant. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help.Michelle,
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Michelle: I can't comment about the hairline crack without seeing
it. However, I never heard of long hairline crack as being typical
of BB. You're right about being not sure what the impregnator/sealer
is going to do for your problem; neither am I! But, who knows, he
may know something that I don't know about sealers! I am not sure
if your BB requires any sealant, either. Did you run my little lemon
juice (and oil) test? That's the only sure way to find out. Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your
stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer (especially
considering what you've been told so far!). Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6055:
Just checked out your web site for the first time. Interesting (and
amusing). I'm in the decision stage for remodeling my kitchen. What's
your opinion on Richlite? I've been looking at granite but honestly
can't find any asthetically that I like. I was considering slate until
I read your site. Stumbled into Caesarstone which is buco bucks. I
feel like I'm running out of options. What is your top recommendation
(before eating out). Anne, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Anne: Richilite? I have not the faintest idea! My top recommendation?
Granite. You don't like any of the few hundreds selections available?
Can't help! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q
6053: What is the best adhesive to attach a steeless steel undercounter
sink to African Red granite? David, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: 100% clear silicone is "your man". But that
alone won't be enough: you will need metal braces or other suitable
supporting devices. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6052: Hello! If we have a granite counter top is it possible for someone
to cut into it to add a hot water dispenser? Is it messy work? Will
it ruin the top? Larry, Thanks, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Larry: Well, let's just say that's not a DIYer project, but if done
by a trained professional is quite easy to do. Now, remember, it's
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell
by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer . Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 6051:
I just installed travertine in my foyer. Some eucalyptus got wet and
dripped on the tile, now there are a few dime sized green stains.
What do I use to remove them? Your advice would be greatly appreciated...Bob,
Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Bob: You're looking at organic stains. It should be easy to remove
them. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to
do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6050: Installing a granite hearth at fireplace over concrete slab.
there is no moisture coming through slab, what do you recommend as
the adhesive material?, Robert, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Robert: White thin set. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
6049: I just purchased a new home and was told my black granite countertop
in UBATUBA (I didn't have a choice - it wa already here). Every day
there are more scratches and yesterday I noticed a chip out of the
surface. I am afraid to even use my countertop when it gets scratched
and chipped without
using it. I have corning cutting boards and I only place things on
the cutting board - never directly on the counter. The granite guy
came and buffed out one of the scratches but now I have more. Can
you tell what I am doing wrong? I keep reading that granite shouldn't
scratch or chip. I believe that they used TileLab sealer on the granite.Thanks,
Linda, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Linda: The fact that they used an impregnator/sealer on the stone
is not going to prevent scratching, or will it? :-) Second, the last
time a checked Ubatuba was green, not black. Third, black granite
or Ubatuba won't scratch, unless you try real hard and with the "right
stuff". Forth, you're reporting that the "granite guy"
was able to buff the scratches out. Conclusion: if what you have is
any "commercial granite", I am the president of the US of
A! Have a true granite guy come out and assess what kind of crappy
stone (if a stone at all) you have. And keep me posted, will you please?
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6048: I just installed my tiles and noticed a spot of mica that's
coming out. I guess you would call it a pit in the making. I want
to stabalize it before it goes any further and I've read that it can
be done with 5 min epoxy. There was also mention of nail polish. Am
I on the right track? I also read that cleaning can encourage pitting
so the use of a good cleaner is important. Come to think of it it
may have been you who said that. Anyway if you could give me some
advice I would be truly grateful.Thanks, Dede, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Dede: If it wasn't me who said that, I'm saying it now! About your
particular problem, epoxy would be the best, but it's messy and not
easy at all to apply. Nail polish is quite "iffy". Try a
drop of "crazy glue" or the likes. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6047: We recently purchased a marble coffee table. It is quite lovely
expect for a minor detail, when looking at the table in a certain
light, parts of the top of the table have a “dirty” looking
film on it (sort of looks like we didn’t dust the whole table)
and I’ having a hard time with not knowing how to “clean”
it and if that film will ever go away no matter what I use. If you
have any suggestions I would truly appreciate it. Susan, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Susan: there a few variables possible: maybe they applied an impregnator/sealer
on it and didn't remove the residue of the product properly; maybe
they spilled some pH active liquid on it and wipe it dry, not before
some light etching would occur; finally, maybe it's just the way the
stone polishes: certain marble don't polish in a uniform way. Try
to get hold of a local stone refinisher for consultation. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
Q 6046:
I have been asked to evaluate the foyer of a well-known public building
that was recently flooded by a water main break. The foyer is limestone-panelled
(I do not know exactly what type yet), and the limestone suffered
staining below the high water line, and slight etching at the high
water line. A reported attempt at cleaning was only partially successful.
I have been asked -
"is there a method that will clean the panelling so that the
flooded lower portion matches the undisturbed upper portion?",
and
"will the flooding episode reduce the anticipated useful life
of the panelling?"
These questions are outside my field of expertise.
Can you refer me to a highly qualified expert - preferably in the
Northeastern USA - who could address these questions? Timothy, Dec
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Timothy: Search no mo'! I live in the Northeastern USA and I
do believe I can help. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get
in touch with me. There's a little connection fee involved (as you
will be told), but I'll be glad to help. What I can anticipate since
now is that the flooding will not reduce the anticipated useful life
of the stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6045:
I have a belgium stone border edging the outside of the driveway and
it has rust marks from the sprinkler system that need to be removed,
what would be suggested to get this done? J.M, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
J.M: Learn how to live with them stains! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6044: I read a question on your web page about oil stains on granite
but couldn't find where you said to look for how to remove them. My
granite benchtop is only a few months and it has stained. The supplier
said it was sealed and gave me not one care or maintenence instruction.
It is a light coloured granite and the main working area has darkened
and stained. The supplier has tried to remove the stains but to no
avail. Is there any way that these stains can be removed? Lisa, Dec
19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lisa: How are things doing in the UK? Now, let's see: "The
supplier said it was sealed and gave me not one care or maintenence
instruction." Mmm … why am I not surprised at all?! :-)
For starter, it was obviously not sealed properly, otherwise you wouldn't
be posting your gripe here, would you? I mean, just saying that it
was sealed (and they probably did apply an impregnator - and not the
right one, maybe - once) doesn't finish the job, does it?! About your
question, when it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to
do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6043:
I have a 18" diameter marble disc, ranging from 3/4 to 1&1/4"
thick, which is broken into 5 pieces. The breaks are clean, and interlock
well, none of the breaks are in relief sections. Could you tell me
what is the best product and method to use to glue it back together?
Jay, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jay: Knowing the best glue won't help you a bit. If you want
to stand a chance that those pieces stay together after gluing them,
they must be "rodded". Only a good fabrication facility
could do that for you. The question is, how much do you value that
piece of marble? Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q 6042:
I just purchased approximately 1,000 square feet of Travertine to
be installed in the kitchen, living area and bathrooms of my home.
I am unsure about whether I should use an impregnator or a sealer
on the tiles. I was told by a tile company that I should use an impregnator
prior to installing
and also after installing the tiles. Is this true? If so, is there
any reason why I can't apply two coats of impregnator prior to installation?
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
You
forgot yet another question: "Is there any real reason why I
should bother applying an impregnator - not even Maurizio's outlandish
MB-4 - on travertine at all?" First off, sealers for stone are
all impregnators; therefore your first question is moot. Second if
the travertine you're planning to install is polished, you do NOT
want it in a kitchen, whether sealed, impregnated, blessed by a minister,
protected by a woo-doo spell, or what-have-you. End of story! Third,
contrary to a widely spread misconception, travertine is one of the
densest stone (among the calcite-based ones) available on the market
and absorb very little, if anything at all. (And this is not my opinion,
rather a proven scientific fact.) Now, is there possibly any piece
of information that you got right for a refreshing change? :-) Look,
I do know that I am almost alone on many stone related issues, and
that makes me kinda uncomfortable at times, but one thousand wrong
don't make a right, I you will never see me joining the fancy brochures
derived choir just for the sake of uniformity. My mission is to help
people, not to lie to them. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6041:
I too have discovered a small crack in my granite countertop. The
countertop is less than 6 months old (and cost a small fortune)! Anyway,
would you please send me information about maintenance and about how
to get my money back? Thank you,Colleen, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Colleen: Well … my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations do cover a vast range of issues, but you don't
really expect to learn from them how to get your money back from your
fabricator, do you?! You're giving me too much credit! :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
6040: I have a main concern about a marble table top - after stains
are removed, and impregnator applied, what should be the 'daily maintenance
routine to clean-up? Windex, or just plain water? thanks, Larry R.
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Larry: Does the bottle of Windex say that the product is safe on natural
marble? Would you do your dishes with just water? Now, how about using
a product that was specifically designed to clean and be totally safe
on marble? :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6039:
I installed 3cm granite counters in my kitchen. The area around the
range cut the stone down to about a 1 1/2" border and it broke.
Is there a material I can use to fill the small crack and paint to
match the surounding granite. Mike, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Mike: Not by yourself, you don't! Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor who will take care of the problem for you. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 6038:
I have a stone table that was called Italian Grey Stone when I bought
it. I think it is a type of granite but it is not polished so it is
porous. It is a smooth surface, just not highly polished. I have been
very lucky at cleaning most stains except candle wax. For any grease
or wine, I first wash it with a little dish detergent and what ever
stain is left I dab on acetone with a cotton puff. No problems. But
the candle wax is recalcitrant. I am able to get the wax off but a
stain is left. One of your readers used vinegar on his stone. Should
I try this? Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Italian Grey Stone (a.k.a. Pietra di Cardosa) is a sandstone. Quite
absorbent, indeed. About your candle was stains you should try to
poultice them with acetone. Nover use vinegar. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! It does carry
a small price tag, and you can order it through Findstone.com (see
side bar menu: "Maurizio Guidelines"). What really puzzles
me, though is the idea that you continue removing stains, while all
you'd have to do is to apply a good-quality impregnator/sealer like
my MB-4 onto your stone and live happily ever after! Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 6037:
Is white cararra marble porous? We are considering using honed white
cararra tiles in the shower area of our bathroom. Is this a good idea?
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Hone-finished
White Carrara marble is slightly absorbent (almost medium absorbency
rate). But that is not really the problem: after all you could always
seal it with a good-quality impregnator sealer like my MB-4 and take
care of that. The real problem … well, I shouldn't call it a
problem … Okay, here's the risk: if the tiles are not installed
properly (i.e.: if some "Michelangelo" butt-joint them)
and grouted properly, you may have water find its way behind and under
your tiles. Such possible occurrence (which wouldn't be good with
any other material anyway) would create a migration of moisture through
the core of the stone and your tiles would turn rusty due the oxidation
of the iron mineral that White Carrara marble is inherently rich with.
If the installation is done right, then you won't have any problem.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q 6036:
My patio is 1/3 covered and the rest is open to the elements. The
slate was covered with 2 coats of sealer when it was laid about 4
months ago. Now the weather is colder and we have had rain, I notice
that the outside patio looks awful. Originally the slates were a mixture
of colored and dark grey.
Now almost all of dark slates have turned light grey/white while the
colored slates are just fine. The sealer is intact. The slates were
laid on a 6" concrete base that was already there. Even in the
covered portion I have noticed discoloration around the edges of some
tiles near an outside door. I have been in touch with the contractor
who says the tiles may need "acid washed" because the weather
has brought "oxide" to the surface. Can this situation be
rectified? Thanks for your help, Kathy, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Kathy: Me? I really don't know. But despair not: I'm sure that some
slate people will chime in within the next … let's see …
couple of years (maybe?) and tell you everything you need to know
to solve your problem. You have to be patient, you know: they are
very busy selling the stuff! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6035:
You seem to be a true expert with stone so thought I'd ask you about
Shellstone. I've purchased about 1200sq ft to install on my pool deck
over concrete and I am now searching for a contractor. Two that I
have spoke to propose installing it using with mud.What would you
suggest? I don't want all the height of a mud job installation and
believe the stone would install well over a medium mortar bed.Dec
19, Reply
|
| R1:
The buzz in town is that I do know a thing or two about stone (but
you don't have to believe to everything they say!), but installation
is a little out of my domain. I love the sound of the word "mud",
though. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6034:
I am hoping to replace our cabinets but keep the granite counter tops.
Is there a way to remove and replace the granite counter tops that
we now have and reinstall on new cabinets? Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
It
won't be easy, a little risky even, but it is possible if you can
get hold of the right pros. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6033:
Hi! Could you please tell me how to refinish my marble surface in
the area where my solutions etched it. it is only the rings from the
container. Thank you Wendy Spector, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Wendy: If the etch is not too severe (can you feel it even if so slightly
when running you fingertips over it?) my MB-11 will do the trick for
you. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6031:
I have had marble tiles for about 12 years now. They were not evenly
installed from the outset which made walking on them uncomfortable
but we could not afford to take them up again. Now we would like to
and replace them with ceramic tiles. Can this be done? Everyone keeps
telling us that we would have to tile over them and I would prefer
not to do that. Are there any other options to making the floor more
attractive if we cannot take them up? Shaorn, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Shaorn: Why don't you get hold of a bona fide stone restoration contractor
company, have them grind your floor flat and refinish it to its original
luster? It will cost you less than installing ceramic tiles and you
will have a beautiful marble floor! Now, you'd better watch out! I
consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities
related to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately,
there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell
a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local
stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly!
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6028:
We have a cream colored marble on our bathroom countertops and on
the floor. The countertop around my sink has some spots where water
has sat on it and around the handles where it is hard to dry out the
water. Is there way to shine back up the marble and get rid of the
spots? Morris, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Morris: Yes, there is! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installation are available for a small fee (which could be refundable)
on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts").
Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's Products" link
and order some MB-11, MB-5 and MB-13. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6027:
I was wondering if you can help me. I was wondering what to use to
clean granite floors so the don't streak.thank you, Paul, Dec 19,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Paul: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the side
bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts").
Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's Products" link
and order some MB-1. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6026:
I am in the process of purchasing granite counters for my new kitchen.
I am a bit confused after reading some of the recent scenarios on
your Web site. If the installer is reputable(and he is, comes recommended
by many) should I just ask he what he is doing to seal it and if I
have to do anything more? Should his job be all I need if he does
it right? Please advise. Camilla Healey, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Camilla: First off, before you ask your fabricator if he's going to
seal your granite, you want to find out if your granite needs to be
sealed to begin with! There are a lot more questions that you would
need to ask! I did write a very comprehensive article on "How
to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you
all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6025:
Can you tell us if Ubatuba should be sealed on a regular basis and
what cleaning products should be used for regualr cleaning and maintenance
of the countertop and ceramic tile backsplash? Nick, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Nick: Ubatuba should never be sealed (see my answers to postings 6006,
6007 and 6014 below). As per routine cleaning, my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's
Dos and Don'ts"). Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's
Products" link and order some MB-5 and MB-13. Should you do that,
I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking!
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6023:
I am installing granite squares on my contertop. The squares or 12"
x 12" What is the best bond to use and the best groute. The granite
is absolute black.Duffy, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Duffy: Regular thin-set and black caulk. Now, remember, it's
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell
by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users
tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular
glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed
of light!). Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6021:
I recently completed a large shower floor (7'x3' 2 slabs of juparana
colombo 1 1/8" granite, honed finish) a trough catch basin at
one end finished w/ juparana 1/4" tile receives the water flowing
off the slabs. The walls are 12x12 porcelain tile with a 3" juparana
"baseboard" (also 1/4" granite tile) where the floor/walls
meet. This is in my sister's house and with all the company coming
for thanksgiving she was desperate for the use of her master bath
which has been out of use since the summer. So I grouted it up and
told her and her husband to use it for the holiday and I'd deal with
the sealing etc. later. Being a long time craftsman but a novice stone
installer I'm not quite sure what my next move should be. I'd like
to clean and de-stain (minor staining from some wet plywood) the floor
and then seal. Any advice on proceeding? The grout is a standard cement
type gray non-sanded. Nothing's been sealed. Also, there is an 8'x2'
sink counter of the same material, though polished, which has also
not been sealed or grouted at the backsplash. It shows water spots
after a few minutes but they go away after a while. The entire job
looks beautiful right now and I don't want to spoil it at this point
by doing something wrong. Hope this godsend of a website can help.
thanks, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
It sounds to me like you already know how to remove the stains. Once
you've done that, you will seal both the stone and the grout (the
vanity top, too) with my "best-in-the-entire-universe-and-beyond"
MB-4 impregnator/sealer (it does come with a 10 year warranty). Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
Q 6020:
I am considering using a "cultured" granite when I replace
my countertop. I just today discovered your web site and didn't know
there were so many problems with stone. I have been told that "cultured"
granite does not require the care that geological granite requires.
Is this because of resin
added to the granite? The "cultured" granite that I am considering
is at Home Depot and Lowe's. I would appreciate your comments or direction.
Sharon, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Sharon: I reckon that by "cultured granite" you mean engineered
stone (Silestone, Ceasarstone, and the likes). Trust me: they have
their own problems and limitations. If you choose the "right
granite" you won't have any problem at all! The BIG question
is: WHICH ONE? I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is
bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6019:
My son-in-law and daughter just laid out, a their new house with a
lot of limestone tile and some of it is uneven and they let the grout
dry and much of it is almost impossible to get up.Is there anything
that can be done for both problems? Thank you very much for your time.
Crism, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Crism: Yes, of course! They will have to hire a proven stone restoration
contractor to grind and re-hone their floors. That will nail then
both! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6017:
Please advise whether i can crush charnockite to make sand along the
aggregates of different size as in the case of granite is crushed
for sand and aggrgates.Thank you very much sir, regards, G.adhiseshann,
Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear G.: I really don't know, but I don't see why not. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
6016: Hi, there, we just got installed a gtanit countertop. They bevelled
the gap and say they cannot make it unvisible. Is that really true?
Can you give some advice? Kind regards Manfred, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Manfred: I really don't understand what you mean by "they beveled
the gap". Could you please elaborate? Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6015:
I have a smooth limestone fireplace and mantle. It looks completely
natural, only sanded and smoothed. The builders used limestone from
a nearby quarry to build the house...outside walls, patio, planter,
picnic table, sidewalk, front porch, and BBQ pit.I placed wet logs
in my fireplace, which resulted in dark, heavy smoke, which... resulted
in smoke stains on the front of my fireplace and the bottom of the
mantle. I did a little research myself and know two things... do not
use anything acidic and to only use neutral pH detergents. Do you
have any suggestions, besides removing the fireplace? Melina, Dec
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Melina: "do not use anything acidic" RIGHT! "Only use
neutral pH detergents" WRONG! You can safely use regular household
bleach, which is alkaline (1 part to 3 parts of warm water) and scrub
your limestone clean using a laundry brush, lots of patience and …
elbow-greese. :-) Don't forget to wear rubber gloves, to mask anything
around the working area that could be damaged by bleach, and to open
your windows. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6014:
I have Uba Tuba granite counter tops in my kitchen that keep getting
white surface stains on them. Is this a water stain or what is happening?
Sandra, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sandra: Did your fabricator apply an impregnator/sealer on your countertop
for any chance? If that's the case, that's your problem right there!
See my answer to the posting 6006 below. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q 6013:
I have a brand new travertine floor (laid on concrete) recently flooded
with 4" of clean water (lightly sodium as the water was from
a salt water softener) for 4-5 hours. Now the floor appears to be
smudged and discolored, and have water marks running across tiles.
My question is can travertine
tiles be water damaged and smudged. Will the colorations come back
after it is dried. Henry, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Henry: If the discoloration is darker than the base color of the stone,
chances are that when the stone is totally dry it will disappear.
If the discoloration is of a lighter color (and dull looking) it won't.
That could have happened if the pH factor of your water is lower than
7. If that's the case, you will need the services of a bona fide stone
restoration contractor. Now, you'd better watch out! I consider stone
refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to
stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are
a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ
from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone
distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q 6012:
What are the methods for removing stains from granite. I left a tube
of silicon based caulk on the granite counter and it has left a ring
on it. The counter top is a medium tone and is only about 1 month
old. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.. Thanks in advance.
Kovach, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kovach: You probably will have to poultice that stain with "Its
Majesty" Methylene Chloride. When it comes to stain removal,
either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits"
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you,
or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means
that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece
of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains",
and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6011:
I have granite countertops (sapphire brown) and around the sink the
granite is not shiny anymore, especially by the facet area. Is there
anything I can do to bring back the shine, Mick, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mick: You can try to use (very sparingly) some Lyme-away (spelling?)
available at any supermarket. Now that I told you that, why don't
you buy some of my products for routine maintenance of your top? :-)
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q 6010:
I just put in an order for a kitchen table top made of Giallo Veneziano
"Granite."
I didn't realize until reading this website that much of the granites
sold aren't truly granite. Is the Giallo Veneziano really granite,
and does that mean that I shouldn't seal it when I get it? Thank you
so much! Sincerely, DK, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
DK: No, Giallo Veneziano is not true geological granite, but it's
still an excellent stone. Yes, is does need to be sealed (with my
outlandish MB-4, of course!), but so do most true granites. In other
words, the reason why it needs to be impregnated has nothing to do
with the fact that it's not true granite. Many commercial granites
don't need to be sealed. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6009:
Can you please tell me what I can use to seal slate. I have hearth
fireplace of slate and use a water base sealer from Home Depot that
they said would work. But I still get scratches on it. Can I use a
low luster poly finish on it, thank you for any help would be great.
Bob, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Bob: And what does a water-based penetrating impregnator/sealer like
the one you bought at the HD got to do with preventing scratches??!
Yes, you can use a low-sheen poly finish on it, but the presence of
the other stuff may represent a bonding issue. Besides, how are you
going to prevent scratches on the poly? :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6008:
I am considering purchasing some salvaged black slate chalkboards
from an old school to use as kitchen countertops and I need to know
what I need to do to them to get them ready to use? I'm pretty set
on using this so any suggestions on what steps I need to take would
be greatly appreciated. i.e. do I have to put something on them to
remove the chalk? Do I need to finish them with something? Who would
you suggest me contacting to cut them? Thanks so much. Kim, Dec 19,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kim: I don't care how much set you are "on using this".
Trust me: YOU DO NOT WANT "TO USE THIS"!! Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 6007:
My granite countertops are a dark green, almost black ( I think its
called forest green), What is the best solution to clean them with,
and not leave it with a dull cloudy look? Thanks, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
I
sincerely hope that your countertop has not been sealed (see my answer
to the posting 6006 below). As for the rest, my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's
Dos and Don'ts"). Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's
Products" link and order some MB-5 and MB-13. Should you do that,
I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking!
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q 6006:
We have new ubatuba, but it doesn't shine like it does in show homes.
The installer sealed it, yet it remains dull looking. Will a granite
sealer fix that, and if so, what is it called and where do I get it?
PLEASE let me know what to do. Thanks. Elizabeth, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Elisabeth: Well, first off, no "granite sealer" in the world
will ever affect the surface finish of the stone, since they are all
below-surface penetrating products, a.k.a. "impregnators".
Second, if anything, if the impregnator/sealer residue was not removed
completely, the thin film that can be still sitting on the stone will
actually dull the factory finish. Third and most importantly, Ubatuba
does NOT need to be sealed (none of the sealer applied ever went inside
as it was supposed to do, due to the inherent natural density of that
particular type of stone), and should have NOT be sealed. That's a
good start, right? :-) That is, assuming that they know how to strip
the sealer! (Rubbing the slab with acetone won't do it.) Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6004:
I have purchased travertine for installation on a concrete subfloor,
however, the subfloor was previously painted with an epoxy concrete
paint. Does the paint need to be stripped prior to applying the white
mortar. Also, should I use sanded or unsanded grout. K kelly, Dec
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelly: Yes, you MUST remove the epoxy paint. Unsanded grout is
"your man". Now, remember, it's never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6003:
I have recently installed Green Onyx marble in the Master bath vanity.
There are several “pits” that look whitish colored, compared
to the pale, jade green color. Is there any kind of filler that can
be color matched to an approximate color and then polished to blend
in? My fabricator’s solution was to color the pits with a pencil,
wet his finger and then rub it in. Wasn’t white anymore at least…what
a moron. Can you suggest a product or suitable “fix”? Ks,
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Ks: Not for a DIYer, I can't. Only a proven stone restoration professional
could accomplish that. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 6002:
Recently removed a carpet off my terrazo floor in family room. Glue
and other yellow discolorations are on the floor and I can't seem
to remove it. Please help me and advise what I can use to remove the
glue and discoloration. Can't afford to get this done professionally
however my teenage sons and I are not afraid of ALOT of work. What
equipment and/or supplies do I need to rent in order to complete this
job. Thanks for whatever suggestions you may have.Zagata, Dec 19,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Zagata: It doesn't really matter how much work you and your son are
willing to put in that project, if you don't know what you're doing.
Besides, the kind of equipment and materials you'd need can't be rented
anywhere. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q 6000:
I am going to be installing approx 1450 sq. ft of marble in the entrance
and hall areas of an exisitng house. The installation would be over
a slab on grade with 1/8 guage vinyl composition tile which has been
in place for some 10 years and has no signs of any lifting or delamination.
It has been sugeted by one installer to remove the existing VCT and
another has sugessted to install ECB anti fracture menbrane. I would
like to know your opinion. James, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear James: If you follow the advice of the second guy (which is a
good one) you won't have to remove the existing VCT. Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your
stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don't become
another statistic! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5999:
We installed granite kitchen countertops 3 years ago. The color is
light brown/honey, it looks beautiful except one two sides of our
stove top the color has become darker. I clean with regular cleaners.
Could it be from the heat? What shall I do to restore the original
color? Seta, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Seta: What you're reporting is quite common with light-colored absorbent
granite. The darkening is due most likely by the fact that the stone
has absorbed over time the normal splattering of cooking oil and other
food staining agents. After all, it's right next to your stove top!
You could try to poultice that extensive and deeply imbedded staining
with acetone or bleach, but I wouldn't have high hope if I were you.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5998:
It's somewhat common to see a "yellowing" of certain areas
of tabletop marble. By looking at it, one cannot tell how deep it
goes. Is this usually fairly superficial and what, if anything can
be done to remedy it? Upstate, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Upstate: without actually seeing your stone I can't even venture a
guess. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5997:
I am having Travertine installed on my bathroom floor. What kind,
if any, sealer would you recommend. Is there any advice you can give
me on the treatment and care of this flooring? Thank you, David,
Dec 19,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
David: What are you going to spill in your bathroom, and WITHOUT REALIZING
IT? Black coffee? Cooking oil?… Besides, travertine seldom needs
any sealing. If it is polished it never does. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5996:
We have a larg open area (more than 50,000 square meter) coated with
Granite,now at present we find a problem in winter that they are very
slippery, we search for a method anti-slip granite treatment , but
not hammer or honing. We interest it keep initial face and use chemical
materials for this purpose. Do you know any solution for this. Zamiri,
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Zamiri: you said 50,000 square meters? … WOW!! That's a lot of
granite all right!! The anti-slip treatments for granite that I know
of always involve the etching of the stone surface, which will basically
produce a honed-finish, though much more slip resistant than a mechanically
obtained honed-finish. Bottom line, it looks like you can't have it
both ways! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5994:
Is there a solution that will remove white stains from slate around
fireplace? (caused by water-chemical in plants) Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
If the "white stains" "disappear" when wet, then
with the application of a good quality stone color enhancer (like
my MB-6) you will be able to take care of your problem. If not, wait
until a slate person will chime in with the answer. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 5993:
We bought 1st grade Vredefontien (dark and green speckles) granite
counter tops from a supplier in SA. We paid for 1st grade granite
and found that when they where installed the stone contained big black
marks in certain places. These look terrible. The supplier said they
where birth marks, but the stone is 1st grade. All our friends with
granite tops do not have these marks. Is this stone really 1st grade?
Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
If
you buy me a round trip ticket to South Africa and pay my consultation
fee I'll be glad to come over and tell you the true story AFTER looking
at your slab! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5992: My wife and I are so excited about our new kitchen. She selected
Santa Elena to go with our new cabinets theme. After the installation
they wax the surface with a buffer as the sealer. We noticed during
and after this process that each of the different stones in the slate
has a vane/lines and circle marks around each stones. If I was to
explain to you in the best way possible, it looks like a lot of water
spots on the surface while looking at it in the light. Is this normal
or should the granite installer do more. They mentioned it is the
makeup of this type of stone. In addition the bull nose (O/G) looks
lighter in color than the top surface. They also mentioned it will
darken up over time. Your advice will be appreciated, Thank You! Van
Antle, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Van Antle: To be quite honest I'm not familiar at all with this
"Santa Elena" stone. Your description doesn't enlighten
me a bit. You're reporting about some "mysterious" waxing
of the stone surface (??). Then, at a certain point you're talking
about slate, and then you talk about granite … I must assume
that it's some "granite" of sorts, and, since the edges
are of a lighter color, it could very well be that the slab had been
"resined" by the factory. If that's the case (which is not
a bad thing), I doubt that the edges will ever become as dark as the
top. The application of a good-quality stone color enhancer (like
my MB-6. See "Maurizio's Products in the side bar menu of this
very page) should take care of that, though. About the rest of your
reported alleged problem, like I said, I don't know that stone (at
least under that particular name); therefore I can't comment on it.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
5991: My husband and I are working w/a builder and chose a polished
FILLED durango travertine for the flooring in two of our bathrooms.
After ordering w/a local tile shop the travertine arrived as polished
UNFILLED because the tile shop had decided not to offer the filled
travertine anymore.
Before we send the UNFILLED back, could you detail the recommended
installation process for a product such as this including the final
sealing.
Also, please explain how do we maintain this product. In addition
to this being laid on our bathroom floors, the UNFILLED would also
be installed on two walls of one of the showers and a 2 in. tumbled
travertine would be laid on the shower floor. We appreciate your comments
and advice. Sincerely, karen, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Karen: You do NOT want unfilled travertine in a bathroom, especially
(but not limited to) inside a shower stall. Send the unfilled travertine
back, period. You may find a setter who will tell you that he can
fill the holes with unsanded grout, but it's not even a close substitute
for the factory filler.Once you decided what material to use instead
(maybe Italian or Turkish travertine polished and filled) ask your
questions again and I'll see what I can do to answer them. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q 5990:
I hope you can help me. I had a dark colored candle sitting on a light
colored marble counter. The candle wasn't lit, however, it was not
on a base and discolored the marble. Any suggestions for how I might
get it off? Thanks! Diana Hall, Dec
19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Diana: It sounds like an organic stain to me. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 5989:
I have an 'Austin' limestone deck around my pool. It gets dirt/pollen
and in some places green or black spots and seems to require cleaning
about annually. I have used a powerwasher a couple times in past years
and it has done a reasonable job of cleaning it up and getting it
white again. This time however, there are places where some of the
darkness didn't come out in spite of some pretty good spraying. Suggestions?
Thanks.....Joel, Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Joel: Yes, of course! I have a product, namely MB-9 that is specifically
formulated to deal with deeply imbedded mildew stains like the one
you're describing. To the best of my knowledge, it's the only product
of its kind available that is quite effective while it does not interact
with the chemistry of natural stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| R2:
Hi
Joel, In a word, Bleach! And watch that power washing --too high of
a pressure will realy eat up that Austin stone.JVC |
| Q 5988:
Hi, I was wondering if there is a product available that will remove
stains from marble or granite. My colleague tells me that a product
that may be called "Stipulite" that may be of Spanish origin
is available. Are you familiar with this product and if so where can
I get it. Best regards, Paul.. Dec 19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Paul: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
fancy and expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
