Advice wanted - marble, granite, slate, sandstone, limestone, stains, care, repair- www.findstone.com

Q 2360: I have just had "granite" countertops installed in my kitchen. The stone is gray/white and carried the name Imperial White. The stone was supposedly sealed on installation but I find it is amazingly absorbent. A small puddle of water left on the counter for about 2-3 minutes leaves a spreading dark spot. Of course it disappears in a while but it makes me very concerned about stains from grease or tomato sauce etc.
I have asked the vendor to re-seal the stone but I am wondering now if I have some form of rock that really isn't appropriate for a kitchen counter (it looks great but you can't get it wet or prepare food on it). Is re-sealing going to take care of this problem or was the Imperial White a big mistake? Patrick, July 31, Reply

R1: Dear Patrick: What you're wondering about is, alas, true. Imperial White (an Orthogneiss, not a granite) is an extremely porous stone, and you will never find it in my sample board (I do fabrication, too). Have your fabricator come back & seal it to death (it may require up to 4 or 5 additional application, with an interval of at least 24 hours between each application) Sorry, I don't like breaking bad news.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2359: Verde Butterfly versus Verde Lavras for a kitchen countertop. The granite dealer/importer suggested the Lavras because it is a denser, "less fragmented" stone. I like the Butterfly precisely because of the fragmented look (slabs I looked at had gold veining, black, and few burgandy spots). My question is, "Can I go with my favorite, Verde Butterfly?" Or, would it be a bad choice for a countertop? Karen, July 31, Reply

R1: Dear Karen: If you accept the fragmentation, go for it! It's one of the best material for kitchen countertop that money can buy.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PAnelist.

Q 2358: Do you know the chemical analysis of Bianco Pi Marble so that I can distinguish with different white marbles? The Bianco Pi Marble comes from Carrara and was made famous in Italy, the unique deposit in Carrara has completely been used after thousands of years of production. This material is excellent for making sculptures because of its white pureness and crystal like appearance. Best Regards, Alcides, USA. July 31, Reply

Q 2357: I am researching images for a new textbook in the UK, and need one of sacks of slaked lime. Would anyone know where I may be able to get one please? Thanks. Kevin, July 31, Reply

Q 2356: I wish to know the radon exhalation from the granite tiles, limits specified for them if any and if the limits vary from country to country. With regards, BALA SUNDAR, Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research, INDIA. July 30, Reply

R2: Dear Sir: If you work at the Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research and do not know that granite does not emit radon, then the best I can postulate is that you are a very ignorant student. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Bala Sundar: Get real, will ya! All that big name and intimidating qualifications for some caca-baloney like that?! It's been proven time and again that granite has no radon to speak of. It's actually one of the best material to insulate a room from radon gas coming from the ground. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2355: I've just ordered peacock green granite for my kitchen countertops. Did your lemon juice test and it wasn't absorbed at all. Is this a good dense stone and should I seal it with MB-4? Thanks, PK., July 30, Reply

R1: Dear PK: My wallet bleeds while I'm telling you this: No, don't bother sealing it! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2354: I saw some granite flooring at home recently which had 18 inch x 18 inch x
1/2 inch thick granite set in 2 inch grout bed with wire mesh on top of building paper on plywood supported by wood I-joists. Several of the stone units when viewed from about 6 to 7 feet away at about a 10 degree angle appeared to show a crack (similar to a crease in a piece of paper). When I got right up over that stone there was no crack at all, not even a microcrack. I did notice that there was a single recessed light fixture overhead that reflected onto the same stone two lights bulbs instead of the one. Is this a defect in granite, since there were many stone units thru out the floor area that had similar reflection type cracks when viewed at a distance. Is this the result of installation, or a material property in your opinion. I am interested in installing the same type of granite at my
home. Thank you. Martin, July 30, Reply

Q 2353: Dear Experts, I would like to draw upon your combined expert knowledge on whether a cause and effect relationship exists between water and marble stains.
Specifically, a cold water pipe embedded in our concrete flooring ruptured unknown to us until the water surfaced through the entire first floor white Carrara marble. Afterwards, about a thousand square feet of the marble displayed mostly yellowish (and some rust) stains. The insurance company will consider paying for it's replacement if I can get an expert authority to state a cause and effect between water and marble stains. Since findstone.com is well reputed as a standing authority on marble, would you be able to kindly reply in a sentence or so to this. Your most gracious and needed reply would be greatly appreciated. Thank you kindly for your time. Respectfully, Giovanni, July 30, Reply

R1: Dear Giovanni: Many a type of White Carrara marble have a certain percentage of iron mineral within. When water migrate from the bottom, through to core of the stone, onto its surface, such iron oxidizes (it rusts, that is), and the stain is permanent, being through and through. Some other components of the stains are more of an inorganic nature, therefore the stain may be removed (at least to a certain degree) by using a poultice of Hydrogen Peroxide 30/40 volume. Considering that we're looking at a surface of over 1,000 square feet, and that the rate of success for the stain removal would be no more than 70% (at best), the only possible solution is the replacement of the whole floor. You also have to consider that the considerable amount of water involved and the length of time it's been sitting under your tiles, may have jeopardized the soundness of the whole installation. Ciao and "buona fortuna"! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2352: What do you recommend for honed black granite (Indian Premium)? Thanks, Susan, July 30, Reply

R2: Never. Don't even think about it. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Susan: Recommend? Just get rid of it! It's only money, after all, and your mind
welfare is worth more than that, I think! You can read several posting about honed black granite (Indian Premium, or what-have-you) by scrolling down this page and going into previous pages. They're all soaked with tears!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2351: I am building a patio with a stream down the middle. I was able to do the water feature with liner and thin stone. Now I want to build a small stacked stone wall around my oval reservoir with stone that are 3 - 4 inches thick and assorted lengths and I am not sure how to cut the curves and top cap block. Any ideas? I am also pouring cement around 3 very large slabs of stone (around a ton each) one of the stones has settled and is now 3/4 of an inch lower than the other two. Any ideas on how to raise the stone or lower the other two stone to make them level? Thanks Roger, July 30, Reply

Q 2350: Hello, I have chosen a Marble that goes by the name "Marron Imperial" is a very nice mix of browns that caught my eye and is being used for Vanities in a Master bath. Can you please comment on the quality of this Marble for the purpose mentioned? I would like to thank you in advance for your response. Also for the very much appreciated well done job of sharing your knowledge with all of us. Sincerely, Hector, July 30, Reply

R1: Dear Hector: Excellent! Take good care of it, though! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2349: Our company has a limestone-mine in his property in Iran. This limestone is completely natural and biologic (shell-stone) which is build of between 93-97% calcium - carbonate. We are in need of some information and consulting in the following items:
1.The price of this material and other products that involve limestone.
2. How can we come in contact with international companies who are using limestone in some ways.
3. Our general project is to powder limestone in micronized form. We are interested to cooperate with international companies who would like to invest in our project. We can send you a piece of this material if you want. Payam, July 30, Reply

Q 2348: My wife and I just purchased a condo on the Gulf of Mexico. A lot of the unit is tiled with travertine. Many of the tiles sound hollow when tapped with something hard, and some tiles actually creek when they are walked upon. Is there a solution short of tearing up the tile and replacing it? Ben, July 30, Reply

R1: Dear Ben: Nope. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2347: I have a couple of questions:
1. I was tasked with improving the appearance in our wastewater lab. The wall is grouted with ceramic glazed blocks back from the 1950's. How would I prepare the blocks so that they could be painted (i.e. acid etching)? Is it costly? Is it dangerous to use the chemicals to do it?
2. There is a marble balancing table that we use that absorbs the vibration from our plants operation. Over the years the white/grayish marble has gotten dull and grayish. Is it possibly to prepare the marble so that it could be painted to match the other laboratory equipment? Will the paint adhere and not be so easily scratched off? Kathleen, July 30, Reply

Q 2346: I purchased the mosaic tiles I need to create a table top that will use rigid plywood as the support. The tile merchant advised me to use cement board on top of the plywood, which means I will have to rework the table in order to make room for the added 1/4 inch thickness. I had originally thought I could simply seal the plywood, using a water-based sealer, and adhere the tile directly to the plywood. Any thoughts appreciated. Jax, July 30, Reply

Q 2345: Water marks on my Carrara marble, according to Maurizio, marble shouldn't even be it the kitchen. My marble supplier tall, dark , handsome and Italian dreamy voice and all, told me marble in the kitchen is an Italian must. It sounds as though I must have it re-honed, is there nothing I can do to help cut down on spotting around my sink, and do you impregnate or not. Thank you, Stephanie, July 30, Reply

R1: Dear Stephanie: Although I'm NOT tall, dark and handsome, I'm Italian, too!
There are two schools of thoughts about marble in the kitchen. One goes: "Marble is such a pain in the neck that the only thing you can do is to look at it! You can't touch it with anything!" While the other one is: "My uncle Tony has a white marble worktop in his bakery and he uses and abuses that thing six days from Sunday, and it's still gorgeous!" Quite apart, wouldn't you say?
Now the big $64 question is: Who right and who's wrong?
Strangely, they are both right!
Northern Europe and North America have no stone culture to speak of, and their perception of marble is that of a perfectly shiny finished surface, that has to stay like that, totally unscathed, for ever and ever! On the other hand, Anthony the baker's relatives were raised in an environment where stone looks, well ... like stone! And the more it's "lived" the better it looks!
Yes, I always advise people to stay away from marble in the kitchen, but the reason why I do that is because I live and operate in North America, and the prevalent perception of marble and its performance herein is dead set within the school of thoughts #1. And I must deal with THAT reality, because I can't teach people HOW they should like their marble, can I! (probably it's because I don't have the dreamy voice of your Italian contractor!!)
That said, if he was convincing enough to "convert" you at the way Southern European perceive their marbles, then I'm the first one not to have problems at having marble in a kitchen. Yes, have it sealed with an impregnator: When it's hone finished, the stone's pores are more open that if it were polished. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio

Q 2344: We have a 1950's fireplace/heath made of sandstone (beige and rose colors). We would like to restore it, as it looks old and dingy. We can't power wash
inside, so what should we do? What chemicals are recommended? Should we have this professionally done? We live in Michigan. Thanks. Marjie, July 30, Reply

R1: Dear Marjie:
1. A solution of warm water and household bleach (3:1).
2. A natural fiber brush (tampico) like the one you use to do laundry.
3. Lots of patience and elbow-grease. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2343: How many square feet would 1 ton of this flagstone cover? Is it suitable for a flagstone deck? Julie, July 30, Reply

R1: Julie: your question is similar to asking how big is a room. More information is needed such as the density of the material (wt./ cubic foot), how thick the material is sawn, or split if natural cleft, and how it is to be set. Our Texas limestone as a rule of thumb, weighs around 140 lbs/ cubic foot, and one ton will cover about 80 sq. ft when sawn 2.25 inches thick, and 145 sq. feet when sawn 1.25 inches thick. This is the coverage estimate for random shapes and sizes laid as "crazy work". Heavier stones will give less coverage. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2342: We have a new marble floor that was install improperly and the contractor sent a restoration company out to cut down raised edges and restore the entire floor. We have heard that the finish on a manufactured floor is far better than that of a restored finish since the restored marble is made to look good by being chemically treated with impregnator and a new manufactured marble floor has a machined finish. Is this true and can you share with us your thoughts about restored verses new manufactured marble flooring. We would really appreciate it! Vty, Steve, July 20, Reply

R2: Dear Steve: Whoever gave you that information was wrong. I am a professional stone refinisher and I can tell you that any competent stone refinisher will make your floor look as good, or better, than new without using any chemical treatment. In addition, since he will also be leveling your floor, it will give the appearance of being monolithic instead of appearing to be made of individual tiles. By the way, the impregnator you referred to is used to seal the marble to protect it from staining. It does nothing to enhance the appearance of the stone because it penetrates into (impregnates) the stone. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Steve: The information you've got is wrong, in the sense that the possible application of an impregnator has nothing to do with the refinishing the stone and the quality of the final result. But it is true, alas, than more often than not, the marble does not get actually re-polished, but it's treated chemically with some sort of highly acidic concoction called "crystallization", or "vetrification", or other garbage like that. It's nothing but a high-tech and high-RISK (for the stone) way of waxing, opposed to polishing by abrasion and friction like it was done in the factory. It is also true, however, that there are several good restoration companies out there who do the job right; which means that they actually polish the stone, more or less in the same way it was done in the factory. In such case, there's no reason why the newly achieved finish shouldn't last as long as the original. There's to be said that a ground marble floor -- once the job is done right -- is going to be a better floor that if the tiles had been originally installed properly. In fact, it's un upgrade that I -- a stone refinisher contractor -- I'm hired to do every now and then, regardless of
how the floor had been originally installed (it's called: "grind-in-place" installation and the final quality of a floor installed like that can't even begin to be compared to the "traditional" North American method of installation.)
Now the question is: How do I recognise the doctor from the quack? Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone restoration contractor ("The mysterious trade of stone refinishing"). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2341: I recently used a penetrating sealer on multicolor slate tile so I was wondering is there anything I can use to make the stone darker or give it a wet-look or is it too late to apply anything over the existing sealer? Thanks Dean, July 29, Reply

Q 2340: What is the name of the stone/rock that is so smooth on the outside but inside as the beautiful crystals? and where can these be found as a family project (free preferable)...also any other nice smooth stones and there names and locations (IM IN MISSOURI) for home and yard decor? thank YOU!! Rhonda, July 29. Reply

Q 2339: We have an old granite quarry that was working back as early as the late 1700s and early 1800s. The stone has been setting out in large piles aging for over 100 years and we are interested in selling the stone.
It would be greatly appreciated if you could help me understand how the stone is usually sold and graded. Our stone is considered to be "Concord White". It is actually finer grain
than the Concord stones and we have used it for building structures and some homes. A lot of it is lichen encrusted and is being used for the "old" look for posts, steps, and terraces.
Thank you for your time and consideration. William, July 29, Reply

Q 2338: I have some Statuary White Marble that I recently have had installed our bathroom (shower surround, floor and counter). A couple of questions....
1. There are some what look like water marks on some of the stones. I have used "poultice" with some success. How else could I get these out?
2. Just by searching the Internet there are a couple of "marble polishes" on the market, i.e. Italian Craftsman polish, Weinman etc. Do these do anything? They do mention that they should not be used on the floor. Does this mean that they will make the floor too slippery?
3. After I get the marble "clean" I plan on using a sealer on the grout and marble. Should I wax the floor as well? Thanks, Brian, July 29, Reply

R2: Hi Brian, I have Carrara marble in my kitchen, 2" honed slab. I love the way it looks , but I too have developed water marks, haven't got my reply back from expert but from what I have read. Were out of luck by fixing the problem ourselves. Rehoning or polishing seems to be the only remedy, however, I haven't heard how to prevent this from happening again. Stephanie, USA.

R1: Dear Brian: A little confused, aren't you! Now, what did the people who sold and install
the marble in your house told you about your problem? Just curious!...
1. "Water marks" were not generated by water and are not stains; therefore no poultice will do you any good. They are surface damages and they have to be removed by refinishing the stone surface. Marble is polished by abrasion and friction, not by putting some finish onto it, then buffing it up.
2. I don't know about the Weinman product, but I'm very familiar with the Italian Craftsman one. It's one of the best stone dressing that money can buy, but will do squat about your problem. Check my Dos and Don'ts out, by clicking on them at the bottom of this page side bar. You'll find what you need to do to solve your problem.
3. Sealing your marble won't do you any good, unless you may envision the possibility of spilling coffee or cooking oil in your bathroom and let them sit on your stone for at least half an hour or so. No sealer under the sun will help you prevent the "water marks" that you have now. Waxing it? Harmless but useless at the same time, if you ask me. You can use a
good-quality car wax on the walls of your shower stall to help against the accumulation of soap film. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2337: Going to use 12x12 GRANITE TILES for kitchen counters. Does ANYONE HAVE CREATIVE ideas for counter edging besides wood moulding? Nancy, July 29, Reply

Q 2336: We have a limestone floor that after a upper level flood the water staining caused yellow/ brown stains. We think it may of been from the dye in the carpet that was upstairs. We applied a poultice to draw out the stains and it worked really well but now have a powdering problem. It seems that the stained areas are still drying out after over a month.
Is that all it is? They have shrunk by about 50% and we dust off the powder almost daily. Any more input would be grateful. Derek. July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Derek: It looks like you're doing all right on your own! Maybe, to speed up the
drying process, you my consider operating a de-humidifier in that room. But if you don't have one, don't bother buying one, It will dry by itself, eventually.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2335: We have been doing a total kitchen remodel and just had Giallo Napoleone granite installed on our kitchen counters and island. The fabricator/installer sealed the granite after installation and told us to seal it again in about a week. I'm not sure what type of sealer they used, they just said to get it from them. They also told us the standard advice: to use a cutting board, not to spill oil or acid products on the counters, etc. I'm feeling a bit nervous about spilling anything on them now. I've been reading your advice about cleaning tips and poultices for stains, so plan to have those tips handy in case I need them. How long does it take for oil or acid products to penetrate, leave marks or will they etch the granite? I'm usually good about wiping up as I go when cooking, so hope this won't be a big problem. I'm just hoping we made the right choice in countertops. We had tile before, and I was sick of yucky grout after many years. I wanted something that would require a little less maintenance.
Also, I always thought that granite was the "perfect" surface for rolling out pie crusts. Now I'm hearing that the oil in the pie dough isn't good for the granite. Am I being paranoid or is that true? Any other things I need to know about this granite? Thanks for a very informative site. Carolyn, July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Carolyn: I encourage you to read the answer I gave to Debbie below (posting # 2318). It should fit your situation like a glove! Debbie, if you read this, can you see once again what I mean by "borderline"? For as long as we have "Michelangelos" like Carolyn's fabricator on the loose, who don't know how to seal (or don't care to ... same difference), "borderline" is quite an optimistic definition!
Sorry about your problem, Carolyn, but if you don't have enough leverage to have your fabricator come back and do the job right like they are supposed to do in my book, you're going to have to do it yourself. Yes, you're better off using the same sealer that they started using. You may need three or four applications (until you see that the stone doesn't absorb the sealer anymore).
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did. And, I promise you, you'll never get them from your contractor! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2334: Is there anyway to remove paint, from sandstone? The sandstone is around our fireplace on the bottom and the previous owners painted it black. Any way to remove it inside the house? Thanks, Debbie, July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Debbie: Use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut
it), a natural fiber brush (tampico), and a lot of patience and ... elbow grease. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2333: I have marketable stone on property I own 75 miles east of Las Vegas, New Mexico. I have sold small quantities of moss rock and flagstone in New Mexico - specifically in Santa Fe and Las Vegas. I have no equipment. My income is at the poverty level. I find the stone business enjoyable. I am wondering what my next step should be. Your guidance is appreciated. Thank you very much, Henry, July 29, Reply

Q 2332: My mother has had a white and light brown striated marble table top for about 30 years and has changed residences several times without incurring any chips or scratches. However, recently my sister gave her a large glazed flower pot. My mother first asked if the pot was leakproof and glazed so that leaks wouldn't occur and was given assurances that it was. She therefore placed the pot on the marble and added flowers and water. One week later, the flowers were dead and she removed the pot only to find that water had leaked at the base of the pot and leached into the marble. Do you know of any safe way to remove the stains? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. Bob,
July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Bob: Get hold of a professional stone refinisher and let them assess the nature of
the stains (IF they are stains), and what to do next. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2331: We're considering using 12 x 12 Dakota Mahogany granite tiles for kitchen countertops. We saw bullnoses that match several types of granite tiles (at The Great Indoors), but not Dakota Mahogany. Any idea if bullnoses are available in Dakota Mahogany? Thanks, Christi, July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Christi, You can put a bullnose on almost any rock type, including Dakota Mahogany. But are you sure that you want to use this granite for kitchen tops! And why tiles rather than slab??? Have a good look at the quality of the surface at the right angle for reflections - there are a number of minerals in this granite which tend to pit. Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2330: We have a new countertop and we really love it. Two days ago, I noticed a few white stains. Not sure if coffee, lemon or the evergreen spray cleaner I've used.
This countertop is only 3 months old. It was only sealed once, I think. Could it be the sealer got removed?
Can you please recommend a natural way to take the white stains? We tried the 2 stain marble remover strong and mild. It didn't work. Please recommend a nice product for us to try without destroying the marble. Thanks. Maritess, July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Maritess: Lemon or evergreen cleaner did the job all right! Now you need a professional stone refinisher to repair the surface damages (not stains) that you have.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

I loved the color..it was honed..no shine and it looks fabulous. Maritess.

Q 2329: Email me relevant information on Lochabriggs stone. Joe, July 29, Reply

R1: Dear Joe, LOCHARBRIGGS (not LOCHABRIGGS) SANDSTONE, Sandstone is characterized by red or pink colouring, and it is medium grained in texture, free of clay holes and other impurities. The stone is quarried from the outskirts of Dumfries in Scotland. It is a Permian Sandstone. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2328: I was told by the tile store to wait about two weeks before sealing the newly installed travertine in my bathroom. This will add considerable time to the renovation project, but if this is the case, I want to do it properly.
The tiles are in boxes and are slightly wet when I open the boxes. I imagine the wait time is to make sure they are dry. Is this the case, and is it really two weeks to dry? Thanks,
Barbara, July 28, Reply

R1: Dear Barbara: A couple of weeks is always the proper time to wait before sealing stone after being installed on a floor or a wall, to allow the setting material to dry properly.
The question is: WHY ON EARTH DO YOU WANT TO SEAL YOUR TRAVERTINE TILES? You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2327: I have recently purchased a travertine table which had a highly polished top. We have noticed a ring mark made by a hot drink. How do we remove it? Thanks, Jacqui, July 28, Reply

R1: Dear Jacqui: You have an etch mark and you need a polishing compound for marble. My
maintenance tips that you can find toward the bottom of this very page left side bar should help you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2326: We are looking to use a black "granite" for a kitchen counter/ island sink top in an Australian house we are building. Is the local product - Austral black "granite" as reliable as "nero assoluto" from South Africa, particularly from the point of view of avoiding stains and damage (assuming that it is not sealed)? Is there a big difference in cost between the two stones? Ruth, Hong Kong. July 28, Reply

R3: Dear Ruth, your mentioned AUSTRAL BLACK, is gabbro, similar to NERO ASSOLUTO BELFAST from South Africa, but not such known. But you have even closer stone of the type - ABSOLUTE BLACK or SUPREME BLACK or SHANXI BLACK from China. I suppose this Chinese stone is cheaper than imported stones. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

R2: Dear Ruth: Run my little lemon juice test and you'll be able to tell! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Ruth, Black granite is certainly a good choice for kitchen tops because of their
high density, low degree of absorption, and absence of quartz. The Australian "Austral" is a coarse-grained gabbro from Black Hill, east of Adelaide with occasional whitish flares or clouds. This distinguishes it from the higher-grade "Imperial" which should be more uniformly black and is therefore commonly used for monumental purposes. Nero assoluto is a non-specific name given to black granites from a number of places but more often than not denotes an origin from South Africa and/or Zimbabwe. It tends to be finer-grained and closes well but occasionally also has some textural variation. Given that both are in the upper price range have you considered some of the very high grade, very fine-grained black granites from India and Shanxi (China). Contact me and I can help you with reputable suppliers/processors. Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2325: My wife and I are in the process of developing a 2,500 sq. ft. loft in Chicago. One of our disagreements is the kitchen counter top. More specifically the counter top edge. We both agree that we like the look of Black Absolute, however, I want a straight edge where as she would like an unfinished jagged edge. Because I've never seen an edge like that I wondered if there are any problems associated with an unfinished jagged edge. Also, do you have any pictures you could send me via email so I can have a better idea of the design element? Sincerely, Charles, July 28, Reply

Q 2324: Please tell me where to go on the internet where I can find a list of rock quarry companies from all the surrounding states? Alice, July 28, Reply

Q 2323: We are planning a granite kitchen island and are concerned about finding a slab that will be large enough, since we don't want to have a seam. Right now, the island is 8'x5' (at its widest point). I was hoping that we could make it slightly longer but were told that we wouldn't find a slab longer than 8'. Is that true? Is even 8x5 too big to give a us reasonable choice among slabs? Sabrina, July 28, Reply

R3: We just remodeled our kitchen and had granite installed on countertops and an island that is . We purchased slabs that were 5' X 10'. Our island was done with one solid piece. There should be a supplier who carries large slabs, but it also depends on the particular pattern you choose. Some patterns only come in certain size slabs. I don't know where you live; we are in northern California, above Sacramento; we purchased our slabs from a Sacramento supplier. Good luck. Carolyn, USA

R2: Dear Sabrina: It all depends on your own definition of "reasonal choice". I do know that you won't find many slabs of that size. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Sabrina, It is partly true that 8 x 5 is getting close to the upper limits of many commercial granite slabs. However, in a well-stocked slab yard with slabs that have been gang-sawn you should find some granite slabs that are slightly longer (9ft) and up to 6 ft high. There are a number of considerations here that you should be aware of. When granite blocks of that size are quarried there are serious weight limitations in lifting machinery at the quarry, lifting machinery at the processing plant, and for transport. A block of that size can approach 16 - 20 tons depending on its composition (and width). There are also limitations as to the length and height of blocks for some processing plants. Having said that find a granite that you like, contact the quarry, and ask them for details of their block sizes and for processors who might have the right equipment to cut blocks of longer length. Some of the granite blocks that I quarry to order are up to 3.5m long but then only one processor has the saw that can process it. I was recently asked to quarry an obelisk 10 meters long with a base of 1.5m. No problem, but the lifting and processing logistics were too much.
Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2322: We own a beachfront condo, and would like to install travertine on our outdoor patio. As it is a porous material, we were wondering if this is not such a good idea. The travertine would be waterproofed, etc., but would there still be problems? Your comments would greatly help. Ravi, July 28, Reply

R1: Dear Ravi: No, travertine is not, by and large, a porous material. It is in fact denser than most marbles and compact limestone. That said, It could be considered a good choice (VERY good, actually) only if it has a hone-finish. If it's polished it will lose its finish within a few months and become "honed" on its own. Sealing it wouldn't be necessary. After all the Coliseum in Rome is made of travertine and -- although I wasn't there when they built it -- I highly doubt that the Ancient Romans ever sealed it, some 2,500 years ago!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2321: Have you heard of a granite called "marron castor"? I am unable to find any information about it. Thanks, Carol, July 28, Reply

R1: Dear Carol, MARRON CASTOR (BROWN CASTOR, MARROM CASTOR) is granite from
Brazil with brown (sometimes brown-reddish) color and almost homogenous structure. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2320: I left a plant sitting on the fireplace hearth after I had watered it and when I moved the plant the next day there was a milky white stain on the black marble. The surface does not appear to be etched but the stain seems to have gone "into" the marble. Soap and water had no effect except to hide the stain until the surface was dried when the stain came back. The folks who installed the fireplace hearth tried some type of paste cleaner, a "marble restoration kit" and some spray-on cleaner and only managed to lighten the stain slightly and leave an area where they worked showing in the finish.
Is there anything I can do to get this white stain out of the black marble? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I recently moved to eastern North Carolina (close to Greenville) and am not familiar with any professional resources close at hand and any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks, Linda, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: What you have, believe it or not, is a real bad etch mark. Store-bought restoration kits are not tough enough to do the job (for obvious reasons, they have to be user-friendly). You have only one option: Get hold of a professionals stone refinisher.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone refinishing contractor. That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2319: I am trying to decide whether it would be a good idea to put a travertine floor throughout my home, including the kitchen and baths. I am worried about staining and scratching (we have a pet). Any info would be helpful. Debbie, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Debbie: If you have in mind polished travertine, you do NOT want it in your kitchen. If the travertine you're considering has a hone-finish, then it would be OK. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2318: We have been interested in St. Cecilia (light) for our kitchen counters, but
now I am a little concerned because Maurizio said in a previous post that it was "borderline." Why exactly is this so? Is this something we should stay clear of and if so what would be a good alternative? Thank you very much. Stephanie, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Stephanie: When I say borderline I mean "my" borderline! Many say that I am my own worst customer! St. Cecilia, if treated with the right sealer in the right way is going to be an enjoyable choice.
Why do I define it borderline? Well, because, unfortunately, even the best impregnator / sealers are just as good as the operator who applies them, and St. Cecilia is one of those stone that needs a caring and knowledgeable professional to do the job right. Let me give an example: At a certain point in time one of my best dealers discontinued buying the sealer that I make. I asked him if there were any problems and he candidly told me that he had a
problem selling it because the back label of the can recommended to wait for at least 24 hours between application (St. Cecilia would need between 3 to 4 applications), and the contractors buying the product didn't like the idea to go back to the same place for two or three days in a row to seal a piece of stone! So, my dealer decided to carry another product from the competition. Can that particular product be used differently? Of course not: Every single stone sealer under the sun has to be applied with an interval of at least 24 hours in between applications, but the manufacturer of that particular product was clearly a better salesman that I, and wrote on the directions that the following applications could be done after only half an hour. And THAT, even if it's a lie, would fit the schedules of the contractors better than my product!
Now, do you understand what borderline means in my book? You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2317: Our architect wants to include a number of sandstone or limestone walls in our new residence, using diamond cut, 200mm thick limestone building blocks. He has recently become concerned about one of the proposed walls which separates the ensuite and main bathrooms. In the ensuite, the wall is to form part of the shower cubicle. He is concerned that the limestone cannot be sealed well enough to be suitable for use in such wet areas. For this particular wall he is now planning to use matching limestone tiles instead. After reading the findstone web site for a hour or so, I am more confused than ever about the issue of sealants and the suitability of limestone as a building material. I obtained a quotation for the supply of the limestone blocks from Bruhn Building Stone of Mt Gambier, and they advised us not to use their limestone in wet areas, but didn't say why. I presume that water penetration is the issue, but what are the consequences? These limestone walls are actually blades that "cut" through the house; and thus they are exposed to outside elements too. Why is water penetration not a problem for the exterior limestone, only the interior? Can you provide some expert advise to us? We love the idea of the "feature" limestone walls that our architect has in mind, but don't want to end up with exterior or interior structural problems or even bathroom surfaces that are overly difficult to maintain (e.g. will soap or shampoo affect the limestone; is the use of unfilled limestone in the bathroom--for that raw look the architect is aiming at--a practical nightmare for maintenance?) Would these issues disappear if we used sandstone instead of limestone? Your comments would be much appreciated. Best regards, Paul, Australia, July 27. Reply

R1: Dear Paul: There you have the very reason why I never recommend anybody to use limestone in their homes. Limestone is too wide a definition, and while most of the limestone available are going to be all right, some will not, and nobody will ever be able to solve the emerging problems! Here, we're in a situation where even the dealer advise you not to use their product in a wet environment! That speaks volume about the suitability of that particular limestone for your project, all right!
I don't know if the specifiers (architects and decorators) from Down Under are as stubborn (just to use a nice word!) as their American counterparts (but I would be surprised if they weren't!)
If you have authority over your architect (I don't know why, but it looks to me that the homeowners are all to often overwhelmed by them!...) I would tell him or her to think honed marble instead, or else! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2316: I can’t believe this happened! I hadn’t seen your site, yet, and cleaned my slate tile with regular over-the counter cleaner w/a citric acid base. By the way although it is very expensive here to have this installed, my professional installer had never installed slate in a bathroom before, I found out later, and thus he has no information.
Apparently I shouldn’t have used honed black Brazilian slate in the shower and bathroom in the first place?
Apparently an impregnator should NOT have been applied?
The impregnator was the only sealer used for the grout as far as I know. Is that enough?
I had been afraid to use anything on the slate, and thus it needed cleaning badly. I had a left over piece and put the cleaner on it several times over several days and nothing happened. Alas, other sections of the tiles reacted—I can see that sections reacted and then a swirl of a slightly different color does not react—even an etched drip mark will stop at a color change. Overall I ruined parts of only several tiles and not everything. It’s the horrible streaks down sections of some of the slate that are worst—and it is honed, so I can sand.
So, what issues do I have due to the impregnator being used—or is that okay?
I will try the sandpaper (and find out what a right angle sander is?) --and mineral oil, at least on the walls...probably to slippery on the floor?
What do you suggest for cleaning the white marks left when water dries? And what is best for cleaning the red fungus that will grow after a few weeks...? We have a Fred Meyer and a True Value hardware store, I’ll look for Stone Cleaner, but are there sources to purchase by mail that is my only other option?
I’m worried about cleaning the glass around the shower (vinegar and water are suggested for the water marks) and the toilet (generally something with bleach)? Thank you. Sharon, Alaska, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Sharon: It looks like you've a nice little mess in your hands! I don't know if Brazilian slate needs to be sealed or not. Usually dark-colored slate does not, but "usually" doesn't mean all the time. What is for sure is that you can't use an off the shelves cleaner, especially with citric acid in it.
But let's take one thing at a time. You ran some test on a spare tile, I understand. Now the question is: Had that spare tile been sealed? If it wasn't and did not adversely reacted to several applications of the cleaner, while the tiles on your shower stall did, it could very well be that your slate did NOT, in fact, need to be sealed and the etch marks are on the
sealer, not the stone. That would be good news, because it would only take the application of a Methylene Chloride-based paint stripper to solve your problem without sanding (no stone cleaner -- including mine -- would ever do! They will only help you with your future routine maintenance requirements). If not ... well, I'm afraid that wet sanding would be your only option. Yes, you would need a variable-speed right-angle grinder / buffer with a special
attachment and special sandpaper to do the job. You would then finish it up with application of a good-quality stone color-enhancer (it does a better job, and more permanently that mineral oil) to bring the whole thing back to a nice, uniform black finish. For more info about right-angle grinders, etc., send me an E-mail at info@findstone.com.
The grout in a shower stall doesn't need to be sealed. However, now that's sealed with a stone impregnator, that's it, leave it alone. About the red fungus issue, sorry, but I really don't know what you're talking about. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Maurizio, Thank you for all the information in your column! I’ve “lemon tested” my Blue Pearl granite and it passes just fine! Well, I think so. There are NO white marks left at all, does not seem to absorb at all—yet, it’s hard to tell, but if you look in the light right, there may be some spots on the surface that are no longer shiny. I think that the spot where I make coffee has some of these marks on the surface as well which makes sense. They appear to form a random pattern and are very slight—but perhaps I do need the impregnator after all?- The counter has impregnator on it—but it’s the kind that must be replaced in one to three years (Stone Tech), so I figure it’ll wear off and I should just leave it? Then perhaps, should I apply your impregnator?
I’ve entered a question (Q 2316)--about the slate I etched with citric bathroom cleaner.
I have three additional questions: 1. You often refer people to contact you directly with instructions for “re-honing” or polishing etched surfaces. Can you send me this information?
2. I have “etched” a practice tile from the honed slate (not treated with impregnator)—and see that it is NOT the impregnator that is etching, although I ONLY was able to etch a VERY small section—even with straight lemon juice, the rest of the tile isn’t at all as sensitive (does absorb the lemon juice leaving a darker spot temporarily only, AND I’ve tried wet/dry sand paper—I started with 400 grit which took out the etched spot just fine and went to 600 grit. My slate must be fairly finely honed, since it appears I ought to go even finer to avoid the overlapped sections with scratch marks? (I tried Brasso, since it was a practice tile, to see if a finer polishing would harm it—and that does look to be a bit finer than the surface I have—looks a little polished (even after washing it off with soap—it must have some oil in it as it also deepens the slightly whiter sanded area just fine). Is there something I should use besides finer sand paper? I see that there are Marble Refinishing Kits at our local store, although they are very expensive? Thank you for this information, via the aw site-I see that I have NOT ruined my tiles forever :-)
3. Some sites suggest that a dilute solution of Ammonia and water and/or Bleach and water might work just fine as regular cleaners for slate, is this true?
4. I have also run into folks who recommended pH neutral isopropyl alcohol and water (50/50 solution) for the granite counter top (and also the slate?). It seems to be working just fine on the Blue Pearl—attacks the grease and dirt with no streaks (also does a nice job on the stainless steel appliance front). Do you see any problems using this? Thank you (please use any of these questions for the site if you think it might be useful), Sharon, Alaska

R1: The dull areas where you made the coffee, etc. are probably due to the presence of the sealer. If It hadn't been "sealed" (actually, it was never sealed, because no sealer ever went IN that stone!) you wouldn't have the problem. So, either you remove the sealer using a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (which is what I would do if it were my countertop), or you wait until it wears off (3 or 4 years, maybe).
As far as re-honing your hone-finished slate, you should be using metal grade sandpaper, 400 and 600 grit, using it wet and, possibly, with a low speed right-angle grinder / polisher, to have a very uniform and scratch-free final result. Forget about the marble refinishing kits for your slate.
I don't know the long-term effects (if any) of bleach and ammonia on slate, so I won't make any statement, but, as a gut feeling, I just don't like the idea. Maybe who told you that has a better knowledge of chemistry applied to slate than I have. The Isopropyl Alcohol solution should be all right (by the way, all alcohols are
pH neutral!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2315: I have a soapstone carving and a piece broke off. Can you advise me were in the central NJ or New Hope PA area I might find an expert who can repair it? Thank you,
Stephen, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Stephen: I'm from central NJ (Monmouth County) and I could do that for you. Send me an E-mail at: info@findstone.com.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2314: I have purchased Uba Tuba tiles for a Kitchen Counter tops. Where does it come from, is it suitable for Counters? What's it's geologic information or history? July 27, Reply

R2: Dear Sir or Lady, UBATUBA is the Brazilian charnockite from end of the Proterozoic (about 600 million years). The charnockite is the special rock of granite or syenite composition in which there are feldspars,
quartz and pyroxenes. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist.

R1: Dear ???: I'd love to answer your question, but I don't do anonymous. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2313: We are California Licensed Stone Contractors starting a marble and stone restoration service business and we wanted to obtain a catalog regarding your products and services. Cary, July 28, Reply

Q 2312: I am an artist, and I would like to grind pigments on a slab of granite, with a muller (which could be a smaller block, also made of granite).
-Are there different kinds of granite?
-Do they all have the same hardness?
-If not, which one is the hardest? And how can I obtain it? Could you also recommend any scientific literature on the subject of grinding. Gadi, July 27, Reply

R2: Dear Gadi: The answers to your questions are as follows:
Yes, there are different kinds of granite.
No, they do not have the same hardness.
One of the hardest is called Absolute Black. Depending upon your needs, you can probably pick up a scrap from most any local fabricator for near nothing, or you can order the stone the stone from him. Finally, I can not recommend any literature on grinding. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Gadi: I will only answer to your first question; after that you can figure out the
answers to the other two. There's only one kind of granite. The problem is that there are so many stones traded as granite, and that granite are not (approximately the 98% of them!)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2311: We have 12" x 24" lava stone that we plan to install in a shower and bathroom floor. We have been advised to seal the stone on ALL sides before installation. Is that correct? What type of sealer is best? Also what is the proper way to clean haze and grout from lava after installation? July 27, Reply

R1: Dear ??? What's your name again? Rude people like you deserve lava stone in a shower stall! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

We chose lava stone because of the location. It is a second floor bridge between our house and garage. Since there is no first floor, and the underside of the bathroom floor is exposed to the elements, we were concerned that cold temperatures would be transferred. Lava stone was suggested because it does not transfer the temperature as well.

Q 2310: We are building a new house. I would like to go for a shiny black granite countertop in my kitchen. I like the look of absolute black but would like to know how to tell if I am getting a good product and how do I go about installing the 12" x 12" tiles. What do we use to set them? I have been told that silicone is the wrong choice. We live in Missouri. Thanks, Helen, July 26, Reply

R2: Dear Helen: Your question was answered below. See reply to Q2301. Absolute Black is an excellent stone, provided it has not been dyed. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Helen: About the setting material I would use a product available at the HD by Custom Builders and labeled: Stone Setting Adhesive. Keep 1/16" gap in between tiles and use unsanded grout to finish the job. About the selection of the stone, toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2309: I would need to sandblast the exterior of the building which is made of stone with mortar infill and the oak beams inside which are painted lightly with emulsion and pitted with old (and possibly new) woodworm exit holes and powder debris in places. Basically the beams are sound however and once the top surface is cleaned off from its emulsion cover and the woodworm holes I will treat them with a proprietary liquid commonly available in France.
The question really is based on the cost that the French master builder is charging to do this job which, may or may not be fair as I cannot assess it out of ignorance. If I could find - and you may be disposed to help - someone in the trade who could advise on cost it would be helpful. Thanks, Sincerely, Leo, July 26, Reply

R1: Dear Leo: I really have no idea of what one should be charged for a sand-blasting job
in France. What I do know is that -- if it were up to me -- I would put in jail, without even the benefit of a trial, all the sand-blasters of the world. And I would throw away the keys, too!! There are much better ways to clean exterior stone surfaces without badly damaging them (all too many times for good). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2308: We are considering granite tiles (machinated?) and natural granite for the flooring in some rooms of our house that is now being constructed. Italian tiles/granite are beyond our budget and we can only afford China. Some dealers and installers advised that the China granite tiles 'emit' this powdery substance after some time. How about Chinese natural granite, is it a good material? Thanks, Lisa, Philippines, July 26, Reply

R2: Dear Lisa: "Machinated" granite tiles?? What on earth are those things?! About the mysterious powdery substance that Chinese "granite" tiles would allegedly emit where there is a full moon, which one Chinese "granite" are we talking about here? There are at least a few dozens of them, coming from different parts of China (and it's a big country, you know!). Can they be all affected by the ocean tides?! I'd really love to know that!! Ciao and good luck (with the sort of information you're getting, you'll need a lot of it!) Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: What do you mean by "good"? How do you define "good"? Perhaps the first thing that needs to be clarified is that the lower price of the Chinese granite vs. Italian granite is not at all an indication that the Chinese granite is of "lower quality". We have been importing Chinese granite in various forms - floor tiles and slabs and countertops prefabricated in China. We have installed these materials in some of the renowned hotels and condominium projects in various parts of the US. Conclusion: Chinese granite is a widely accepted material. And by the way, no one among our clients have complained "that the China granite tiles 'emit' this powdery substance after some time".
Certainly, all this is not to say that all granites are "equal" - regardless of country of origin. As you may have also gleaned from earlier postings on this site, certain stones that come under the broad label of "granite" are not even granite at all - if one were to apply the term in a strict petrographic sense. In my experience in the stone business, the term seems to be broadly applied as a "marketing convenience" to designate stones that are not quite clearly classifiable as marble, limestone or sandstone or slate, etc. In like manner, certain marbles are better classified as limestones and yet they are marketed as marbles. And the market (both sellers and buyers) have tolerated and accepted this "setup" - albeit grudgingly by some quarters.
I refer you to some links in this site with regards to proper maintenance of your granite - i.e. Maurizio's articles. Gene, USA.

Thank you, Gene! I loved your answer and I'd really love to see more of your input in the
future on this site. Why don't you send me an E-mail at: info@findstone.com . I'd like to know you. Ciao, Maurizio

Q 2307: Hi. We are replacing our entryway door, but would also like to put ceramic tile in the foyer. Is there a rule as to what should be done first - the door or the floor? We have gotten mixed answers from different people. We are concerned b/c the door we are ordering is a fiberglass door with a full glass light - with two full sidelights. Afraid of what we would do if door is put in first and cannot clear the tiles - and afraid if do tiles first, there may be a gap where the new jamb and tiles meet. Please advise. Thanks, Mary,
July 26. Reply

R1: Dear Mary: No, there are no rules; only common sense. First you put down the floor (you can't make that thinner than necessary for a sound installation, can you!), then the door jambs must be adapted, if necessary, to the new situation. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2306: We recently inherited a Carrara marble fireplace mantle. It is in eight sections and we would like to install it in our late 1800's home. Can this be done "do it yourself" or will it require professional assistance? The two up rights and the center medallion have holes in the back for mounting. How would we use these to mount the mantle? Thank you Jeff, July 26, Reply

R3: Dear Jeff: Get a pro. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R2: If you do not know why the holes are there, then you definitely need to call a pro. Mike, USA

R1: Jeff; Personally, I would engage the services of a good, knowledgeable, and reputable stone setter for this. Unless you've had some experience, you will get in over your head with this one. Good luck, JVC, USA,

Q 2305: What are your thoughts on basalt as a kitchen countertop? Is it not stronger and less porous than granite? Is there some color (olivine? yellow?) variation which would add interest to the black without degrading it's strength and low porousity. Where can I order highly polished slabs suitable for this application. Juan, July 26, Reply

R1: Dear Juan: Basalt (the real thing, that is) is gray. It is not as hard as granite and,
very definitely is much, much, MUCH more absorbent than it. Highly polished slabs of basalt can't be found anywhere. Basalt does not polish. If the basalt that you have in mind (with those olivine and yellow colors and all) can be polished, then it's not a basalt.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2304: In your response to a question that read "Does anyone have any particular do/don'ts when dealing with un-gauged Indian Slate? Dave, March 4." You responded "don't". Would you expand on that short answer please? I have also considered 12" gauged multicolored slate for kitchen, entry, hallway, but don't care to make an expensive mistake.
What is your opinion of china white / gold quartzite? Thanks-much!! Leslie, July 26, Reply

R2: Leslie, The white/gold "Quartzite" is really a schist stone. It does have some Quartz in it, and is still a good material for exterior use. Only drawback, don't use next to the pool! I have used this material a lot in Hawaii, and have had some problems. Use a good penetrating sealer, and remember to keep the regular household cleaners off from it. A little simple green and warm water wont damage your stone, or your sealer. As for multi
color interior, its what i have in my own home and I live it! Good Luck! Dawn, USA.

R1: Dear Leslie: Since I figured that you wouldn't care to make and expensive mistake (who
would!!), I gave you all the answer that you needed to have. Indian slate is tremendously absorbent, and no impregnator / sealer under the sun will do a real good job at tackling that first problem. The second problem being that the material scratches like crazy and, being natural cleft finished, nobody could restore it. It sure doesn't belong in a kitchen to me!!
About the China white/china gold quartzite is concerned I have not a clue. Usually quartzite stone are extremely absorbent. However toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2303: We are planning on going with blue pearl slab granite for our kitchen counters. I have read in your advice column that it does not have to be sealed. Our fabricator says that we should seal it anyway and that he recommends that all stone countertops be sealed. Will it hurt to seal it? Vohl, July 26, Reply

R2: Dear Vohl: I can see that your fabricator's brains have been sealed real good by the "salesmen"! No, it won't hurt the stone to seal it anyway, but it may create problems. And your fabricator will be the last person in the world able to solve them, since they wouldn't even know where they come from! Mother Nature made Blue Pearl (an anorthosite from Norway) one of the best material possible for a kitchen countertop. Why tamper with it just for the heck of making the "salesmen" happy and wealthy??!
You're welcome to print this out and have you fabricator read it. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Vohl: In this instance your fabricator is wrong. Trying to seal Blue Pearl is a waste of time. See my response to Q2301. Same reason. The stone is too dense to accept a sealer. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2302: Does the country of origin affect the quality and price of granite? Sussane, July 26, Reply

R1: Dear Sussane: The country of origin may effect the quality of the stone. Not the inherent quality of it, mind you, but the quality of the finished product. In other words, the same material processed into slabs or tiles, say, in Italy, would have better chances to be "perfect" than if it were processed -- even with the same machines -- in the country of origin. About the price issue, it doesn't matter where the stone was quarried and / or processed; only demand and supply determines that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2301: I have read your expert advice page and am impressed. We are building a new home and am doing all the work ourselves, my husband is a contractor. We want absolute black granite 12x12 tiles on our kitchen counter, Could someone give us installation advice? The granite supplier is trying to sell us sealer. I figure the grout will need sealed but your site says that the granite will not have to be sealed. Any help would be appreciated I would like to do this right the first time. Please don't email me and tell me to hire someone. Thanks, Helen, July 26, Reply

R2: Dear Helen: OK, I won't tell you to hire a professional! Unfortunately I won't even give
you any tips on the installation of those tiles, because I have no intention of writing a book on the subject. Besides, there's one available already! The grout could use sealing (although, being black, wouldn't show anything if stained). The black "granite" tile won't
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Helen: Use a thinset on 3/4" backerboard. Use round toothpicks to space the tiles for your grout lines. Use a white cloth and acetone and rub it on a couple of tiles to make sure they are not an inferior product that has been dyed. If black rubs off on the cloth, reject the lot. Tell your granite supplier that you will be conducting this test, because if he is ignorant enough not to know that Absolute Black is so dense that no sealer would ever penetrate the stone and instead would merely sit on the surface, then he is certainly ignorant enough not to know that some black granites have been dyed. He also would not be aware that the sealer will cause its own problems in the future. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2300: I live in northern NJ and need to replace my 30 year old brick and cement steps. I have received suggestions from Mason's in the area but they say different things - I'm confused.
They either suggest using Limestone or Bluestone as the step-top for each step. Is one better than the other? Also, Belgium block was suggested as a border along a new interlocking paver (over sand) walkway. Any thoughts about durability and maintenance? Thanks! David, July 25, Reply

R1: Dear David: I personally like limestone or sandstone better for your step tops. Bluestone is a good choice, too, but it eventually will show wear and tear patterns, while limestone and sandstone won't. Belgium blocks (they should be more properly called "Indian blocks", since they all came from India, now!) are for ever and require no maintenance. They are made out of granite. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2299: We have just bought a house with a Rosso Verona marble tiled floor and vanity top in the bathroom. The bathroom was refurbished approximately 10 years ago at which time the marble was fitted. Parts of the high traffic floor area and the vanity top are slightly scratched, dull and slightly worn looking. Can you advise us on how to maintain this type of marble and perhaps even polish or brighten up the worn parts? Many thanks, Derek. Reply

R2: Dear Derek: Your marble floor and vanity top needs to be restored by a professional stone refinisher.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone restoration company. That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You
do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Derek: I'm afraid that the only recourse you have is to call in a marble restoration professional. There is nothing you can do personally that will restore the shine and luster to your floor. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2298: Hi, I just put a big deposit down on new Barracuda granite tops and have a concern. They are coated with what looks like a resin. The vendor told us that it is put on at some manufacture's sites for extra protection. Is that true? I am worried it may be hiding something... They haven't gone to fabrication yet so can still pull out of the deal. Thanks, Mark, July 25. Reply

R1: Dear Mark; I'm a little confused, here. You can actually detect the coating of resin??!
If that's the case, get the heck out of there and run as fast as you can!
"Resining" "granite" slabs is a relatively new practice that's implemented mostly in Italy. It seems to make the "granites" more presentable (no obvious natural pits or fissures anymore) and, at the same time, liquid-proof (there's seldom need of applying an impregnator-type sealer to a properly "resined" stone. It does work, although the long term effects are still
unknown, but the resin is not supposed to be seen; it's supposed to be inside the stone.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Hi Maurizio, Thank you for responding to my question. I reviewed the RTB section and it was informative but I didn't actually address the new stone coating process.
Actually, the stones "coating" is really only apparent on the edges. That's where I noticed it in the showroom. It is manufactured in Italy so the process you are referencing may be a reality. This is going to be a real heart -break for us as we love the stone. Should I ask for a similar stone without the "coating?" I will contact the vendor in San Jose, CA and ask what EXACTLY is put on it. Cabinets are going in today and tomorrow so will get right on it...
Thanks again, Mark.

Q 2297: A few years ago, my wife and I bought a few tables with slate tops. In our
complete ignorance at the time, we failed to get any information about the care and maintenance of our purchases. Now, we see occasional small chips and scratches in the surfaces and on the edges and don't know how to protect our furniture, which we like quite a lot.
The stone in all three tables (coffee, end, and dining) are in smallish rectangular pieces of a hand-span or two in dimension, arranged in symmetrical geometric patterns, varying in color from very dark gray to variegated red, yellow, and brown tones. The grout is dark, appears to be sanded, and of about 1/8 inch (2 mm) or a bit more in width. The slightly glossy surfaces appear to be sealed with something, but I don't know with what. The dining table surface is framed with cherry wood; the end table has a sealed rounded edge that looks like concrete, and the coffee table surfaces are all stone. Although all three tables were made by different manufacturers, the stone is remarkably similar. I believe that the dining table was made in South Africa but I'm not certain of that.
It is inevitable that we will from time to time make a scratch or nick; we understand that. What can we do to the stone itself to keep this sort of damage to a reasonable minimum?
Regards, G.A. July 25, Reply

R1: Dear G.A.: Don't use it. That'll do it, all right! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2296: I have an old cap stone from a church roof carved into a fleur de lis shape. It is approx 100 yrs old, and VERY crumbly/porous. The stone is about 2 feet tall, 1 foot wide, of sandstone, and all the original exposed surfaces are black with environmental staining. The stone is probably British, and is a pale yellow colour. Just by looking at it, its fairly obvious that any sort of grinding will really damage the surface as well as the ornamental work on the stone. I'd like to have the stone on display indoors, so can you recommend any kind of poultice that might strip the worst of the staining - I don't imagine for a second that I can remove all of it, as the poor stone has been perched on a roof in an industrial city surrounded by main roads for so many years! Any help most appreciated as I've got very attached to my little find now! PS: No, the stone wasn't pilfered! The church got demolished to make way for a business school! Rhian, July 25, Reply

R2: Dear Rhian: Now that you went through the trouble of letting us know that you are not thief, I will answer you question!! :-)
Try to poultice it with a solution of water and regular household bleach (1:1). Believe it or not, most of that "pollution dirt" is nothing but mildew! Once you remove most of the stain with the poultice, use a solution of hot water and bleach (3:1), and with the help of a natural bristle brush (tampico) and a lot of "elbow grease", take out as much as possible of whatever is left. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Rhian: Try some bleach first, and gently rinse after letting the bleaching action take its course. This should at least get rid of some of the dark stain (a lot of which is organic in nature). Then with a soft brush and pH neutral soap, spot scrub the more resistant areas. (again, gently is the key word). If the stone is sandstone, and has been exposed to many years of weathering, it is going to be rather fragile, and even a blast from the garden hose could do considerable damage. Please try any of these suggestions on a small, inconspicuous area first before going after the entire piece. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2295: I need the technical data for Indian Slate: Gold Green (Deoli Green). Lokesh, India, July 25, Reply

R1: Dear Lokesh, I know only some petrographic data of GOLDEN GREEN or DEOLI
GREEN QUARTZITE from north India. The quartzites, as generally metamorphic rocks, are formed from sandstones during increasing temperature and pressure. The GOLDEN GREEN QUARTZITE contains minerals such as quartz, chlorite, micas and limonite (iron hydroxide). Some quartzites, including GOLDEN GREEN, are characterized by the presence of cleavages along which they can be easily split into thinner tiles (similar to slates). Planes of cleavage are folded to narrow parallel waves and they are covered by mixture of green chlorite and silver micas, which are locally weathered to golden limonite spots. Outside using of the stone is problematic because of slow but continual weathering of chlorite and micas. Size and shape of limonite spots can be changed. The quartzite is polishable. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2294: My husband and I are considering our flooring options for our foyer, kitchen and bath area. We found travertine tiles we liked that are honed and filled. After reading all the info. on your findstone.com site, I am second guessing myself on the Travertine. Is it a good material? Sounds like a lot of people have trouble with cracks, swirls, etc. Do the filled parts of the stone come out over time or is there something we can do to prevent that from happening?
I read in several sections that you do not recommend sealing Travertine. How do you keep it clean?? I am a neat freak! Also, I have an 80 lb. Boxer dog. Will he scratch it every time he races to the front door??? Help. Kari, July 25, Reply

R1: Dear Kari: I personally love honed and filled travertine! Yes, travertine is quite a dense material, but considering that A) when honed its pores are slightly more open than when polished, and that B) is going to be installed in a kitchen, I would seal it (in the kitchen, that is). You do understand, of course, that sealing won't help a bit with your cleaning chores. Talking about which, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2293: Hi, I have recently gone out to find a suitable top for my bath vanities and came across a Marble that caught my eye because of the colors and shades. The name given, and it is the same in a couple of places I went to is: "GIALLO VALENZIANO". Can someone tell me if it is a good choice for the job? If so can you tell me the steps to follow to seal, protect etc, if needed? Thank you in advance to anyone with answers. I have been fascinated with the amount of useful info in this site. Keep it up.
Sincerely, Hector M. July 25, Reply

R1: Dear Hector: Giallo Valenziano is a good choice. As most marbles doesn't need to be
sealed, especially considering that's going to be installed on top of a vanity cabinet (you're not going to spill coffee or cooking oil onto it and let them sit for a couple for hours or so, are you!) Just be careful about perfumes and other fragrances, and, of course, the selection of the proper cleaning agents.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2292: We are wishing to put granite countertops in our new home, under construction. We went to the slab yard our builder works with and found two very different stones, both of which interest us. One is called "New Venetian Gold" which is a light stone with some dark brown spots/streaks. The other is called "Forest Blue" which I believe is from South Africa. It's a medium/dark green with blue flecks and looks very nice. Unfortunately, we were unable to obtain scraps of these stones to test as you recommend. Have you heard of these stones, and do you have any opinions on them? I hope you don't mind a quick comment if you have the time. Please also, recommend a sealer for these stones if you would recommend sealing them. I appreciate any advice you can provide. Best Regards, Michael, July 25, Reply

R2: Dear Michael, as you mentioned, FOREST BLUE was from South Africa. It is granite s.l., but petrographically looks like gabbro. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Michael: As a rule, I always urge people to go somewhere else if they can't get two of lousy pieces of scrap! New Venetian Gold is a good choice, but does need to be sealed. I don't know much about the Forest Blue, but I've hard that is quite dense. Anyway, I wouldn't dare to select it without a piece of scrap to fool around with. About the recommendation of a particular sealer, I can't do that for obvious reasons.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2291: I have been reading your site and I must say that I am impressed with the
vast amount of knowledge that exists. Thank you! My question is this: I notice that for floors and counter tops and places that get wet (showers) you are recommending a 1/16" grout spacing. I understand the reason for that. For walls, you sometimes recommend doing a butt-joint. What about a fireplace surround and a ~12 sq. foot floor space in front of the
fireplace? Can't I just butt-joint the granite tile all around the fireplace considering that there, more than likely, won't be any water near the fireplace? Thanks! Rob,
July 24. Reply

R1: Dear Rob: Absolutely. I can see that you can use your own head! Congratulations! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2290: I need to fix the scratches and refinish a mahogany dining room table 42 inches round. Can you tell me where to look? Even if it is in the Yellow Pages? I don't need a French finish - it is probably more costly. But I do need it redone. Cathy, July 24, Reply

R2: Sorry Cathy, you came to the wrong site. We address natural stone issues, not natural wood. If perhaps your mahogany table has a stone top on it then I recommend that you contact a stone restoration specialist. Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Cathy: What has that got to see with the price of rice in China?! This is a stone site, not lumber!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2289: I was interested in having our house floors done in marble, however we were informed that marble is very delicate and not recommended for home use. Please help with any advice that might be helpful to us. Thank you! Rojas, July 24, Reply

R2: It depends upon your lifestyle and the type and finish of the stone you are interested in. Marble floors can be a delight or a disaster, depending upon your choice of stone and the traffic. To quote a very OLD friend of mine (Maurizio), "You don't buy marble, you adopt it."
Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Rojas: Polished marble can indeed be a wonderful material to floor a residence, but it has to be selected with a grain of salt. Let me give you two cases scenario:
A) An older couple has a shiny marble floor in their Foyer and formal living room. The kids are out of the house, they have no pets and no social life to speak of. They never use the front door, because they come in from the garage all the time. Twenty years down the line, that floor is still brand-new.
B) That very couple decide to sell the house and retire to Arizona. The new owners of the house have three very active kids, two big dogs and throw a party every other week, and use the services of a cleaning service that doesn't know the first thing about cleaning natural stone! That same floor that remained new for twenty years will look like a war-zone
within the next six months!!
Now, you consider where your situation sits and draw your own conclusions. What's for sure is that knowing in advance about proper maintenance and preservation procedure will help a great deal.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2288: Hi, I need some help please. I did a mosaic tile countertop in my Mother's dry bar. It's been completed for about a month, (fyi -I used non sanded grout) so I'm sure it's cured by now. Here's my question. I would like to put some sort of acrylic or poly coating on it. My goal here is to have some sort of clear coating over it so that I can preserve the mosaic and never have to worry about anything touching the tiles or grout itself. A tile installer who was doing some work in Mother's kitchen told her he had heard of people using Mod Podge over tile mosaics???? Have you heard of this and does it work. If not, do you have any suggestions as to what type of coating I can use. Also, should I use a grout sealant before I put any sort of "clear coating" on it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Brandy, July 24, Reply

R1: Dear Brandy: Sorry, but I am a stone guy, not a clear coat one! I am highly opinionated on how stone (mosaic or what-have-you) should look like, and my opinion doesn't certainly coincide with yours. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2287: I found your site this morning and I must say I really enjoyed some of your comments on the Q&A pages. Especially the comment to the fabricator “new in the business” that couldn’t even understand a request on a dimensional quote! And you are very correct, many Americans find themselves in the stone business when they have no business at all being there. It seems to me that the bulk of your site id devoted to stone tile, slabs and dimensional stone. Is natural cleft irregular flagstone, boulders and veneer stone outside of your interests? How can your site help a new stone business market its products? Joe, July 24, Reply

R1: Dear Joe: I don't think we can say that the types of stone you listed are outside the
interest of this site, because it indeed is interested in any type of stone, including pebbles!! It doesn't look, however, that there are many experts in that particular section of the trade who are interested at answering questions on this particular subject. Personally, I don't consider myself qualified enough to answer questions on those stones. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2286: I am trying to find information about how to install and maintain natural stone floors. These stones will be collected from my own property and used as a floor. I need information about how to do this before I trail and error it. If you could tell where to look even I would be thrilled. Tabatha, July 24, Reply

R1: Dear Tabatha: My best suggestion is that you start working with a well established tile
setter specializing in natural stone as an apprentice for, say ... a year or so (two would be better). By then you'll know what to do next. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2285: My daughter colored her hair and got stains on my sink. What can I use to get the stain out? Barbara, July 23, Reply

R1: Dear Barbara: You want to try a poultice with talc (baby powder) and Hydrogen Peroxide (Salon grade, 30 / 40 volume). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2284: I am looking for granite for Island top. I like Baltic Brown but am getting different answers regarding its characteristics. Is it a hard granite? Does it have pits in it? How absorptive is it? Would this be a bad choice in granite type? Could you recommend better choice with similar color characteristics? Susan, July 23, Reply

R1: Dear Susan: I urge you to read the posting No. 2278 below by Monica and my answer to it. Yes, Baltic Brown does have small pits and fissures, like many other "granites". Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2283: I would like to know what it's composition was made of: Zales was the jeweler who reset and fractured the stone. They said it was "soft" and should be cared for like it was a pearl. It was a sky to gray blue with diopside properties (like a brown tiger eye). It
was originally purchased by my mother in 1983 for my senior year in High School, from J. C. Penney's in Dallas. It was featured in white gold, and had to be special ordered in the 14K yellow gold setting that I wore. Recently, I purchased a ring from a pawn shop that had a much darker blue "tiger eye", and had it removed from it's setting and placed into a gold cabachon pendant. But I still miss my favorite ring. I would be happy to send it to you if you promise to send it back, and not harm the stone. However, I do not know if it is a "real" stone, as the one in my ring was, or an optical illusion. As I stated, Zales referred to it as a "Cathay". Thank you, Kelly, July 23, Reply

Q 2282: The Monongahela Cemetery has begun the restoration of its Civil War plot. There are 75 sandstone bases and tops that are from the 1890's. I began cleaning the stones with Orvis soap and water. The stones appear to have been sealed with a black stain or paint. The stones are in good shape and I would like to see them back to their original color black. What should I use? Mark, July 23, Reply

R1: Dear Mark: Black sandstone?? Well, no matter what, only some testing would enable me to give you an intelligent answer. So, unless you can send me a sample of the stuff to fool
around with ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2281: Dear Dr. Hans: I too would be interested in what the 60 limestones you tested, and the results. Are you able to share this information? Thank you, JVC, July 23, Reply

R1: Dear JVC, I said investigated not tested. I can eventually compile the list for you if you send me your personal email address - but it won't be for a while. Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2280: Could you recommend the best type (not brand) of grout for a granite tile kitchen countertop please? Thank you. Monica, July 23, Reply

R1: Dear Monica: Epoxy-grout would be very definitely the best choice, but it's only sanded and not easy to handle. The next best thing is unsanded grout (wall-type) mixed with acrylic. Once properly cured (a few days) it should be sealed with a stone impregnator / sealer. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2279: I have been trying to find information about SANDSTONE because I would like
to use it in my house. Could you please send me as much information as possible regarding: durability, insulation performance, rate of expansion/contraction, ability to withstand weathering (including ultra violet light & water), reaction when in contact with other materials, ability to accept surface or other finishes, susceptibility to damage/or insect attack, and the general advantages and disadvantages of using sandstone. Thanking you, Wayne, July 23, Reply

R2: Wayne: you are asking for a lot of information, but have not identified the particular sandstone you are planning on using. As with most types of stone, sandstone comes in a wide range of hardness, compactness, and grain cementing characteristics. Generally speaking, a soft, loosely cemented sandstone will not weather worth a d!#%. Hard, dense tightly cemented sandstone will hold up to the elements for a long long time. Also one
needs to consider the bedding direction when the stone is laid. Stone laid up with the bedding planes horizontal tend to weather better than stone laid up with the bedding planes vertical, and if it is laid with vertical bedding parallel to the face of the wall, an extreme amount of spalling can be the result. The key here is to look at some older buildings in your area that have the stone you are considering, (assuming you are considering a local stone), and see how the stone looks after years of exposure. If you are planning to import the stone, then by all means, get some representative samples, and have your mason evaluate it. Good Luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Wayne, It looks like you're in for a bit of homework. If you can't get to several
sandstone quarries yourself or some reputable sandstone outlets you'll have to spend a bit of time on the net chasing this information. (Dr. Hans), Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2278: I love your site but I swear, the more I read the more confused I get. I don't know if there is a limit to how many questions you'll so graciously answer from the same person though. I've read at least twice that Baltic Brown doesn't need sealed. Wiping a wet paper towel over my Baltic Brown tiles instantly darkens the tile. Water droplets DO stand on the tile and don't seem to "absorb". I'm thinking of the term "absorb" as a sponge would absorb water. From what I can tell, you are determining absorption by a piece of granite turning dark if liquid is spilled on it. I did the lemon test on the sample (it passed) but I believe it was probably sealed. My Baltic Brown has many pits/fissures that I can feel with my fingernail. If this "granite" isn't to be sealed, what does one do about food/liquids getting in there? I have been reading this site for over 8 hours and I'm still not sure whether or not to seal it! Thank you, Monica, July 23, Reply

R2: Dear Monica: Baltic Brown may or may not need to be sealed. What I mean by that is that usually it's a very compact stone, but some batches are a little less compact than others and absorb -- even if so slightly -- oil. It's still a very limited degree of absorbency that can be easily controlled with a good-quality impregnator / sealer. In conclusion, even if I'm notoriously "lukewarm" about the sealing issue (despite the fact that I manufacture a
darn good impregnator!!), in the case of Baltic Brown I concede that sealing could be considered a good bet.
The reason why the Wipes make the surface temporary dark is not due to the idea that the little liquid contained in them is getting absorbed, but to the fact that the surface is wet for a little while. Every wet surface is always somehow darker. On a side note, wipes are not advisable to clean natural stone. The chemicals contained in them may turn out to be too harsh either on the stone itself, or the sealer.
Finally, about the pits and fissures they are a natural "trademark" of that particular "granite" (and many others, for that matter). They are there to stay and will not get filled by any impregnator / sealer.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Monica: Baltic Brown is not a true geological granite, but for the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop I consider it a better stone than granite. So, if you like the way it looks, go for it! Most of the times it doesn't need to be sealed, but it's one of those stones in the "twilight zone." Some batches do absorb even if so slightly, especially oil. As an extra precaution I would seal it. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

I chose this stone for it's color. It was a good companion to our Porcelain floor tile and it looked good with our cabinets AND we liked the colors. Monica.

Thank you for your replies. I'm finally comfortable with the idea of sealing my Baltic Brown granite. Maurizio, thank you for clearing up the issue of exactly what you meant by absorption. I know that most everything takes on a darker appearance when wet but in the descriptions I read here it wasn't clear to me exactly what you meant when you would say "If you see that under the drops of lemon it develops very quickly dark spots, it means that it's a very absorbent stone..." Yes it turned dark but no the lemon juice or water didn't "disappear" (absorb) into the granite. There in laid my confusion. To clarify one other thing. I didn't use "Wipes" (as in baby wipes) on the granite. I said "Wiping a wet paper towel..." caused the granite to look darker. Trust me, I've been so afraid to use ANYTHING other than water on my granite so far. I'm waiting till I'm 100% clear on what to use and not to use ....this forum has been a GREAT help! Thanks again. Monica

Q 2277: Help!!! I am totally confused and am wanting some advice. We are renovating our kitchen and would like to know what the best surface would be for the benchtops - granite, marble or cross cut stone? I love the look of Saturnia cross cut stone, but do not know anything about it and how it would wear in a kitchen. Granite is huge in Australia and know it is the toughest wearing surface. Am I making a mistake to use cross cut stone in the kitchen? Also, it is not a well known product in Australia and I am having difficulties locating an Australian based supplier. Best regards Mina, Australia. July 23, Reply

R1: Dear Mina from Down Under: I'm no interior decorator, but I think that the answer I gave to Ross below (posting #2271) can also apply to your Saturnia stone. It's denser than marble and slightly harder, too. Finally, don't ask me to locate an Australian distributor of the stuff!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2276: I have a stone table in the dining room, but it is so porous that it is getting stained. What do your recommend we seal it with so it acts more like tile when we use and wash it? Thanks, Keith, July 22, Reply

R1: Dear Keith: Tell me what stone it is and, most importantly, describe how the stains look
like to me. Only then will I be able to tell you what to do. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2275: I read a response on the FindStone expert forum by Dr. Hans saying that he had researched 60 limestones for an architect for external cladding. I was wondering if you could share which limestones came out on top. I'm considering honed limestone counters for my house and am looking for the densest, best performing ones. I was told French Beauharnais was a good one. Any information would be most appreciated! Thank you, Nancy, July 22. Reply

R3: Dear Nancy, I can confirm Dr.Hans information. Your mentioned BEAUHARNAIS (or CHASSAGNE BEAUHARNAIS) have porosity 3-15%, but absorption about 1.5 - 2.5%. Much more dense with similar color there is CREMA MARFIL from Spain with porosity 0.2 - 1.3 and water absorption 0.1 - 0.5%. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist.

R2: Dear Nancy and other readers: The posting to which you are referring was in one of the other (?trade) sections to do with supply. Many limestones could have been used but there were strict guidelines that I needed to follow for this type of construction (for example, a thickness of 30mm, mechanical fixings, price, reliable availability, and proximity to saltwater). Limestones are calcareous rocks made up of at least 50% of carbonate mostly in the form of calcite, aragonite, and dolomite. There are other carbonate varieties but these are not significant in the context of building stone. As a group, these carbonate rocks represent about one-fifth of all sedimentary rocks, occur on all continents, and span all ages from recent to very old. Limestones are regarded as non-clastic sedimentary rocks that can be formed from many geological processes. They are texturally, structurally and mineralogically extremely diverse - characteristics which reflect their derivation, environment of deposition, and diagenetic history. Although a large proportion of limestones are biogenic (contain fossil material), there are also chemically deposited limestones which are important as building stone, namely travertine.

The principal factor which unifies these carbonate rocks is their high reactivity to acids. Acids are a fact of life and here to stay. There are many of them in our home and in our environment. Wine, carbonated drinks, fruits and fruit juices, vinegar, and even some natural waters will react with these carbonate rocks. And there is little that we can do about it!! Many a posh resort and nice residences with originally finely polished or honed limestone surfaces on their bartops or kitchen-tops have discovered this.

Another key characteristic of limestones is their softness relative to other rocks such as granites. The softness is mainly a function of the mineral composition. Calcite typically has a hardness of 3 on the Mohs scale of hardness whereas dolomite and aragonite are a bit harder (3.5 to 4). Because of this softness, it can be easily scratched by most things in the house such as cutlery, coins, tools, keys, toys, etc., so there should never be the expectation that nicely polished or honed limestone surfaces are going to stay that way for ever.

A physical feature of limestones which is important geotechnically is its intrinsic porosity. Many limestones, particularly the biogenic ones, have a medium to high degree of porosity. Porosities of 10-30% are not unusual in the French limestones and the famous Australian limestone from Mt Gambier has a porosity of 50%.
But although technically weak and very absorbent, certain construction techniques (both old and modern) allow them to be used successfully and effectively. In cold climates, however, a porous limestone can suffer rapid degradation due to freeze-thaw cycling and some protection might be required.

One important structural aspect inherent in most limestones is the presence of very fine, squiggly lines which are often brownish. These structures, called stylolites, are pressure-solution features formed during the compaction and lithification of limestones. Mostly, the brownish colour is due to hydrated iron oxide but there can also be concentrations of clays and/or sulphides. Because these stylolites are natural planes of weakness and can often transmit fluids because they are not fully closed, any expanding clays can react to fluids and physically weaken the limestone.

A final comment is on the observation that over the last few years or so, a number of "marbles" have reverted to "limestones". In the stone trade, it has been long accepted that any limestone that can be polished can also be called a marble. If a limestone has undergone some post-depositional (diagenetic) modifications some recrystallization will have occurred. The crystals might still be quite small but the crystalline minerals of the limestone will accept a polish. Because marbles are "old hat" and limestone has become the buzzword of many architects, there is now a strong trend to market mildly recrystallized limestones that were once called marbles. Indeed, it is this group that appears to be capturing a significant portion of the stone market. Incidentally, some limestones from Oman and Saudi Arabia were seriously considered for the external cladding as was the beige-coloured Jurastone from Germany. (Dr. Hans), Australia, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Nancy: I don't remember the posting you're mentioning. But it doesn't matter. I'm
personally so "lukewarm" about limestone that I never made it my priority to find out much about it. I just so happen to know that the densest of the bunch (at least to the best of my knowledge) is the Solnhofen stone from Germany (I'm not so sure about the spelling). About the French one you indicate, I have not a clue.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2274: I am doing job in green marble what kind glue should I use? Where can I buy it and for how much? Thanks, Frank. July 22. Reply

R1: Dear Frank: Theoretically you should be using epoxy-based setting material. However, at the Home Depot there's a setting material from Custom Builders dubbed Stone Setting Adhesive (or something like that!). It's much more practical to use than a two part epoxy and won't create any of the problems that regular thinset would. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2273:I was advised that washed pea gravel is a good material to use as a base for a swing set in my yard. Do you recommend this or would l have other recommendations.
Please advise. Regards, Lisa, July 21, Reply

R1: In my area (Oklahoma) many schools use pea gravel in their school playgrounds. I have watched my grand-daughter come off a slide and land on her rump with no adverse results. Go for it! Mike, Expert Panelist.

Q 2272: I am planning to install Perlato Royale on my bath floor, using white thin-set and unsanded grout on 1/2" backer board thin-set cemented and nailed to the plywood sub-floor (upper floor/second story). I will use the 1/16" grout gap. I'm curious about maintenance. I would also like to know if sealing these tiles is necessary, and if so, would sealing prior to installation be a good idea? Also, should I paint the plywood sub-floor with a moisture barrier prior to installing the backer board? Thank you. Julianna,
July 21, Reply

R1: Dear Julianna: "Perlato Royal" is an Italian (from the island of Sicily) compact limestone
(and very compact at that!) traded as marble. It's quite hard and requires no sealing. A moisture barrier paint on the plywood should be considered only if the room is sitting on the ground. If there's a room under it, it would be a total overkill. All the rest of your "homework" is commendable!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Maurizio, Thank you for responding to my recent inquiry. A contractor is coming over this evening to give me an estimate on putting down the Perlato Royal on the bath floor, but he said that instead of leaving 1/16" space, he butts them up next to each other because when the thinset dries, it contracts and allows for enough room between the tiles. I don't believe this is correct (especially in the center of the room) but wanted to get your expert opinion. Thanks for offering your excellent advice and your dedication - I wish there were more people like you! Julianna

Q 2271: We are currently renovating our kitchen. Our style is modern, our cabinets white hi-gloss acrylic. We want a stone countertop but neither of us like granite very much. I really like marble, especially the veined Calcutta Gold but understand that it isn't appropriate for a kitchen countertop. Can someone out there recommend either a veined granite (if it exists) or an engineered quartzite or any other stone with veining that is durable enough for a kitchen countertop? Ideally, I would love a white, beige, orange or blue kitchen countertop. Also, can you use sandstone or marble for a kitchen floor? We are looking to buy these products for a reasonable price in the Manhattan area. I've also been trying to find a large store where I can get a look at a wide variety of stone countertops in the tri-state area. Know of any? Many thanks, Ros, July 20, Reply

R1: There are two schools of thoughts about marble:
1) "All you can do with marble is just look at it. You can't touch it with anything!"
2) "My uncle Tony had a white marble worktop in his bakery and he was using and abusing that stone every day of the week and twice on Sundays. It looked good all the time!"
Now the $64 question is: Who's right?
Strangely, the answer is: Both!
It all depends from how each individual feels about the "looking good" expression. Neither Europe, Northern America (just to cite two of a long list of geographical areas) have very little stone culture, and the idea of most people from those areas about marble is that it has to be as shiny as possible and its surface totally unblemished. To the relative of Anthony the baker, their uncle worktop looked great because they grew up in an environment where the predominant perception is that the more a stone is beat-up, the better it looks!
Now, Ross, you have to decide in which school of thoughts you and the other members of your family belongs. If you belong to the former, stay away from marble (and any other calcite-based stones) -- Calicatta Gold, or what-have-you -- as much as possible. If you belong to the latter, then a "beautiful" hone-finished Calicatta Gold countertop (very low-hone, with no reflection whatsoever) is "your man". I can't decide for you.
About all the other stones you have in mind, I'm no interior decorator. Certainly you do NOT even want to look at sandstone!!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2270: Hello, We recently had a flagstone patio installed. The color is too dark (peach), and we would like to know if there is a way to lighten it without damaging the stone. Thanks. Susan, July 20, Reply

R1: Dear Susan: Nope! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2269: I would like to know your opinion on using Caliza Capri Limestone honed slabs inside a swimming pool. The designs call for the entire inner wall and floor to be clad with this material. My concern is whether there will be a noticeable deterioration in the stone over the years from the effect of the Chlorine on the stone. We can accept slight etching or loss of shine but we would be very concerned if the stone would deteriorate considerably to the point of pitting or cracking. David, Philippines. July 20, Reply

R1: Dear David: I don't know much about that particular limestone, but being a calcite-based stone I would have your very concerns myself. Try honed granite. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2268: We have been working on the area of producing, installation and covering the surfaces with Marble, Granite and Travertine. As it is known all mine and materials are scratched and discolored when they are treated and become dull in appearance.
For this reason we are looking for the solutions to strip away years of wear and tear and look virtually new. We, in Turkey, use a high motion conventional machine made in Italy to cover the defect on the surface lining that would seen in time and in some areas where a dense erosion occurs.
We would like to cooperate with your company about using, marketing your productions. We would be grateful if you give us detailed information about the policy of your company. Onder, July 19, Reply

Q 2267: I am new to the business and my clients want the following quotation:
100 LF, 3/4" X 20 1/2", kitchen counter top w/ bullnose, G603, polished finish. What does it mean? Especially "100 LF, 3/4" X 20 1/2" " ---- what are the actual dimensions? And, then, "w/ bullnose" ---- is FOUR SIDES or not? Thank you for your help. Warrenz,
July 19, Reply

R2: Dear Warrenz: Under certain circumstances I do admire the American entrepreneurship, by which sometimes people get into the action right away, and -- hopefully -- will learn as they go. But that, I feel, was good some 200 years ago.
I do despise people like yourself that get into an extremely complicated business without even knowing the basics of it. Do me and the whole society a big favor: Take your "professional abilities" somewhere else. The stone industry is bad enough as it is, we don't need some extra "Michelangelo" like you. Ciao and good look in your next, different endeavor. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: LF - linear foot.
3/4" thick
201/2" - 20.5 inches long
G603 - chinese granite
bull nose - see edges in our library. FindStone.com

Q 2266: Someone recently applied a protective stone sealer to my exterior Colorado Buff sandstone deck, and I am not at all happy with the way it looks now. Before, it was natural looking, like the vertical stone on the exterior walls. Now, the deck has darkened a lot and has a blotchy appearance that is not consistent with the vertical stone surfaces. How can I restore the look of the natural stone, and what would you recommend to seal and protect it THAT WON'T CHANGE THE COLOR? (I live in Colorado mountains, and was advised that a sealer is important protect stone/grout joints from deterioration.) Thanks, GS, July 19, Reply

R1: Dear GS:
1. A sealer -- any sealer -- is as good as the operator who applies it.
2. A sealer for stone will only protect your stone from staining, not certainly from deterioration. In fact -- although it's still to be proven that a sealer may actually "help" the deterioration process of natural stone (!) -- the application of something inside the stone is certainly not a a natural thing to do. At least in my book. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2265: I am renovating an old (200 yr.) stone farmhouse. The bathroom is of stone walls. I would like to have the shower walls be the exposed stone built in the (corner) walls. How do I do this? Waterproofing is key!!! What is the appropriate floor base? Any info appreciated!!! Ken, July 19, Reply

Q 2264: Can you guide me why Makarana stone is considered better than Kishangarh or other mines? What are the major qualities of Makarana stone which makes it most sought after stone. I shall be cordially grateful for your assistance in this regard. Thanks, Shyaam, India, July 19, Reply

R1: I am a contemporary sculptor working on white & black marble. I live i Rajasthan. Makrana marble is a calcium carbonate & it is chemically different than other marbles. It will not get yellow & the whiteness is long lasting. The chemical structure is so nicely blend that its very strong yet easy to carve with normal chissle.
Kishangarh marble is very porous & will get yellow & sometimes develop cracks after the flooring is completed. Best regards, Ankit, India.

Q 2263: What's the best way to remove patina from a bronze headstone on a grave please? Robin, July 19, Reply

R1: Sandblasting, Tom, USA.

Q 2262: Hi, I purchased Natural Indian Slate (greenish/gray) to install in my bathroom. Can I put this on the wall and floor of the bath? I'm concerned of the buildup on the shower wall due to the cracks in the slate. If so, should I seal the slate and what should I use to clean it? Thanks so much for any help! Mary, July 19. Reply

Q 2261: Hello. What a great site! I live in south Mississippi and am looking for 12"x12" or 16"x16" slate pavers at wholesale. Might you be aware of a source within a radius of ~200miles? (Jade green or natural grey guaged one side or two). Also, do you recommend any sealant on pavers used outdoors (if so, which one/type) or is it preferable to allow them to weather naturally? Thank you very much. David, July 19. Reply

Q 2260: Dear Sir, I hope you can help us. We own an 1856 home with slate fireplaces that have been painted white! We have used a paint remover to remove the white paint and of course, realize that these mantles were probably faux painted with black paint to look like marble...We see some indication that this is the case. The slate is a beautiful green/black color. Now, however, we need to know how to make (and keep) our mantles looking their best once the paint is completely removed. Some have suggested mineral oil with a small amount of black or dark black/green paint. Could you tell us if you agree with this suggestion? Many thanks...Dian, July 19, Reply

Q 2259: We have been working on the area of producing, installation and covering the
surfaces with Marble, Granite and Travertine. As it is known all mine and materials are scratched and discoloured when they are treated and become dull in appearance. For this reason we are looking for the solutions to strip away years of wear and tear and look virtually new. We, in Turkey, use a high motion conventional machine made in Italy to cover the defect on the surface lining that would seen in time and in some areas where a dense erosion occurs. We would like to cooperate with your company about using, marketing your
productions. We would be grateful if you give us detailed information about the policy of your company. Best regards, Onder. July 19, Reply

Q 2258: Hi! I recently purchased a table from a school science laboratory, and I'm told that the table top is slate. Since I am very unfamiliar with this material, I have many questions. First of all, how can I tell if the top is really slate? And, if so, how can I tell if it's a natural slate or some type of compound? My main concern at this point is that it has some type of black rubberized protective coating which appears to have been painted onto it, and I'd like to remove the coating without damaging the "slate" underneath. I have scraped off some of the coating in order to examine the stone beneath it. It is a smooth black/charcoal gray stone with a rather dull finish. The coloring is consistent with little or no color variation. Any ideas on what this stone material is and how to remove the protective coating? Thanks for any advice you can offer! Laura, July 19, Reply

R2: Based upon your description, your stone is probably a slate chem-lab table. Use a paint stripper containing methyl-chloride to remove the coating. Observe manufacture's warnings and rinse thoroughly. After the stone dries, apply one or two coats of penetrating sealer.
Mike, USA.

R1: Dear Laura (if you'd pronounce your name LOW-RAH, you'd be my wife!!):
I don't think that anybody can teach you over this site how to recognize if a stone is slate or something else (I would exclude the possibility of a manmade compound). Typically, however, many a school science lab table were made out of soapstone. The way you describe the stone to us where you have removed the coating, seems to confirm that. But, of course, it's just a (n educated) guess.
To remove the coating you will need to use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride. No solvent would ever damage stone. Besides, the reason why soapstone was so popular as science lad table top is due to the fact that it's quite impervious to harsh chemicals. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2257: I would like a list of some stones and/or rocks that are porous, but would release oils over time. Thank you, Sherry, July 19, Reply

R2: I am a marble restoration professional who also has over twenty years of experience in the oil industry. I can say without fear of contradiction that most petroleum geologists spend their entire careers trying to answer this question. Very few are consistently successful. Sorry, but I doubt that there are any contributors to this site who can advise you on where to drill your next oil well. Good Luck, Mike, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Sherry: I don't know if this is because of the fact that English is not my original tongue, but, quite honestly, I have no idea of what you're talking about. Stone releasing oils over time??!! Could you please elaborate for me? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2256: We are an architectural firm working on a project where we will be using limestone on interior and exterior floors, and for interior and exterior walls. Also guide me how to describe the different surfaces I want in general terms. July 18, Reply.

R1: For description of surfaces:
a) rough :- as found in blocks from the quarry
b) sawn:- as cut in a circular block saw or in a gangsaw
c) natural cleft :- as you find in natural slatestone and limestone, or any stone which can be split into layers with chisel
d) bush hammered :-with a multi or single pointed chisel
e) Chiselled :- with a chisel which leaves white line on hitting a stone surface
f) flamed :-with a flaming oxy-acytelene or oxy CNG flame
g) sand blasted :- hitting a stone surface with high pressure compressed air with fine sand
h) Polished
i) Honed :- semi-polished. The above are few of the stone finishes u can ask for.
j) pitched face where the sawed or quarried surface is removed leaving a rough, irregular scalloped appearance.
k) chopped , where a Guillotine type piece of equipment is used to break the stone again leaving a rough rock face exposed. JVC.

Q 2255: I am considering putting Travertine tile on my kitchen floor (and dining room and living room). I like the look of the pores/holes left natural- I don't plan on filling them w/grout/cement. That said, how does one clean out the inevitable food and dirt particles that get in the holes? Is a steam cleaner ok to use? Or should I grout the holes in, or risk losing my sanity? Thanks, Mindy, July 18, Reply

R2: Dear Mindy: Yes, you can clean the holes with steam from time to time. The question is: "How can you possibly avoid to fill the holes while grouting the gap in between the tiles?"
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: To begin with, I am a marble restoration professional. I do not know the habits of your family, but if you plan on installing unfilled travertine flooring, count on blood-stained floors if the family runs around bare-footed. Secondly, a steam cleaner will probably do quite well in removing the crud from the floors and the blood stains, but the high pressure will damage the travertine and will probably cause collateral damage to adjoining walls, etc. Anyone with a water hose has experienced unexpected "blow-back" when directing the water-jet into a small oriface. For a floor installation I STRONGLY recommend that you install filled travertine, Mike, USA.

Dear Mike: While I can appreciate the ... fervor transpiring from your answer (I use a lot of that "stuff" myself!), I would consider the blood issue a little bit too ... theatrical! In my day I installed at least a couple of dozens of unfilled travertine floors back in my original country (all "grind-in-place". That's the only possible method of installation, if one wants to keep the
travertine unfilled), most of them in beach houses where people do walk on their floors barefoot. I never heard of anybody wearing off their feet soles to the point of bleeding!! What's more, I do believe that if people begin to feel uncomfortable walking barefoot on their floor, they would start using some sort of foot ware before they get to the point of bleeding! I know I would, wouldn't you!
As far as the steam cleaning issue is concerned, it is not necessary using a high-pressure machine. Just a regular household steam cleaner will do the job without damaging the stone, or create collateral damages.
No, really, the true problem -- considering the way stone floors are installed in this country -- is that's just about impossible not to fill the holes while grouting the floor. The only way to avoid that would be to either go into a "grind-in-place" installation (not many contractors can do that -- or even know about that, for that matter!), or skip the grouting altogether. The latter, however, it's a practice that I'm strongly against, especially in an indoor installation.
I do like your style, Mike, and the pride detectable in your announcement that you're a stone restoration professional. As you probably know, I'm in the stone restoration business myself. We'd love to see more of your contribution to this wonderful site in the future. Send me an e-mail at: info@findstone.com. I'd like to know you. Ciao, Maurizio.

Q 2254: I would like to know what should be used to seal flag stone. We had used a product called Auqathane. It looked great but yellowed over the years and we just spend many hours trying to remove it with a citrus stripper. What could we use on the floor to make it look nice again. It is so dull without anything on it. It is in a spa room and needs to be water repellent. Thank you. Larry, July 18, Contact

R1: Dear Larry: Use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride. Anything else won't cut it. About what to use afterwards, sorry, I'm not into that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2253: I am interested in a stone called Azul Macauba to be used as a vanity counter in a bathroom. One person told me this was a granite, the other told me it was a marble. Which one is it? Is it a suitable stone for a bathroom vanity counter? Can you give me an idea of what I should be paying for this type of countertop for a 58" counter, installed?
By the way -- what is the difference between marble and granite? Thanks very much. Napers, July 18, Reply

R2: Dear Napers: I don't know exactly what kind of stone the Azul Macauba is, but I do know it's neither, although it's traded as granite. About the difference between marble and granite, I don't have time to write a book for you. Check the internet, or your local library, or your encyclopedia, or your stone retailer. They know a whole shipload about stone all right!!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Napers, Azul Macauba is neither a marble nor a granite - it is a quartzite consisting mostly of quartz and a blue mineral called dumortierite. It has a fairly high imbibition coefficient (rate of water absorption) of about 0.6%, which means that it is very absorbent. This means that any liquids like soaps and shampoos will be readily absorbed. This results in a wet-look stain. If any liquids are spilt on the vanity with a colour the chance of discoloration is high. But because the rock is quite hard and fairly resistant chemically, common cleaning and/or poulticing methods will often work and not be detrimental to the appearance of the stone. However, because it is quite absorbent there can be other problems with this stone.
A recent investigation of conspicuous brown staining on the surface of an Azul Macauba vanity top concluded that the 25mm thick stone absorbed the oils in the glue used to bond the stone onto a vanity cupboard frame made from customwood / craftwood. Whether the brown stain came only from the glue or from a reaction between the glue and the manufactured wood remains uncertain. There might also have been an additional contribution to the problem by the housekeeper who applied a solvent to the sealed surface and successfully but only temporarily removed the stain. This solvent might have reacted with either the glue or the wood thereby releasing more brown tannins or oils. One important consideration is that despite being sealed with a "high quality sealer" the solvent rapidly penetrated the stone and dissolved/removed the stain. What does this say about the sealer, or for that matter, about the stone?? Choose your application carefully especially
when it is one of the more expensive stone products that you can buy. As for the differences between marble and granite, there are many. Basically marble is usually a calcareous rock whereas granite is typically siliceous. Marbles are generally quite soft (can be scratched with a coin or a key) whereas most granite is relatively hard and therefore scratched with difficulty using household items. Being calcareous, marbles are chemically reactive to acids such as hydrochloric acid (used in pools) and even relatively weak acids such as acetic (vinegar). Marbles and limestone react with anything acidic such as wine, carbonated drinks such as champagne, fruit juices, and acid rain, and are even slightly reactive to drinking water when the pH is lower than about 5. Granite is fairly resistant to all
acids except hydrofluoric acid (HF) which thankfully is not readily available. Marbles originated from limestones (most of which are sedimentary rocks) whereas most granites are of igneous origin (partly molten). Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2252: I am commercial pressure washer looking for some advice on cleaning rough limestone in the Colorado area. The project we are currently working consists of limestone and rock walls in the natural state. The have had hydraulic oil, grease and construction material spilled on it through a construction process. My company generally used low pressure and hot water for this type of material but I do not want to take any chances because of the historic significance. Any advise as to how to clean and what if any chemicals to use would be greatly appreciated, July 18, Reply

R1: Dear ???: I'd love to help you out. Ciao, ???

Q 2251: Hello, my house has a saltillo floor which was sealed inadequately (apparently only a couple of coats) with water based Jasco sealant, now has severe wear and grime and splotches where it has gotten wet after only a year. So i intend to strip it completely and reseal it with the best product on the market. any information on what product is best to strip the floor without removing the color? If some color comes off, any suggestions on products to replace the color? lastly, I need to know what product would be best to use to reseal the floor. i understand it should take about 6 coats. am working with a flooring guy but he has found this information a bit hard to come by. please respond soon, Jones,
July 18, Reply

R1: Dear Jones: Sorry, we do stone in this site. Saltillo is clay. Go back to the store that sold the tile to you and ask them for advice. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2250: I have a 3 foot square piece of rough (unpolished) green slate, which I use as a table top. Someone left a bottle of massage oil on it, and it left a stain. Is there a way to remove it? Robert, July 18, Reply

R1: Dear Robert: Yes. You have to poultice the stain out using acetone. If you want to know more about poulticing, send an e-mail to: info@findstone.com and I'll be glad to point you in the right direction. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2249: Do you think that very hard, dense calcareous sandstone would cleave well to form building stone? Thanks .Smith, July 17, Reply

R3: Dear Smith: Why don't you get a few pieces, try to cleave them and see how effective it is? Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

R2: Dear Smith: Yes. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Smith, Why don't you get a few pieces, try to cleave them and see how effective it is? Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2248: I bought two pre-cut bullnosed 8-foot granite for my small galley-type kitchen from the Stone Store in Santa Monica, CA. Each piece cost $300. Sink cuts were $50, installation was $200 per piece. The fabricator made a poor choice of a cut and left a miserable blemish right on the corner. The granite has been installed. Should I insist he remove the 8-foot piece or is this typical of granite? There are several other "spots" which I wasn't expecting but could ive with them. Also, I had to purchase sealer for an additional $75 to keep water spots from showing. (I had already tried a $25 sealer which didn't work). Did I get taken? Should I have insisted the piece be removed and replaced? Joanne, July 17, Reply

R1: Dear Joanne: They don't know much about stone at the "Stone Store", do they! Now, if the installer made a terrible blemish in a corner, how can you consider that typical of granite??! That's poor workmanship, period. Whether you want to accept it or not is totally up to you. I know I wouldn't! Now about the sealer thing. First off, did you ever determine if your "granite" needed to be sealed? Second, what is this story about "water stains" showing? Granite (and even most "granites" for that matter) don't behave like that. You should not have "water stains". Keep in mind that "water stains" don't exist. No matter what they look like they are actual surface damages, not stains. Basically they are marks of corrosion (etches) that some acidic substance created by simply coming in contact with the stone surface. They have nothing to see with the degree of absorbency of the stone. Marble and other calcite-based stones do that all the the time. Granite and most "granites" do not. It could very well be that you "granite" did not need any sealing, or that you did not apply the sealer properly (maybe you left some residue of it on the surface of the stone), and the acidic substances (lemon juice, vinegar, tomato sauce, sodas, drinks, orange juice, wrong cleaning products, etc.) are actually etching the sealer, not the stone. Finally, before you apply a different make of sealer in your stone (providing that it needs one), you're better off stripping the old one off (use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride), or else you could have a "funny" reaction between the two products.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision to whether or not your stone needs any sealing. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2247: I've got a stone sample from a shop in the UK (though they're not around anymore) with the word 'Gaban' on it. I like the stone, but want to find out more about it. Where can I buy it? Any thoughts? An hour on the web has revealed nothing! July 16, Reply

R1: Dear sir or lady, I found the GABAN stone is a very strong, pale grey, fresh microcrystalline limestone with some variations in grain size notable by the presence of quartz and/or clay-bearing bands cutting through the material at a shallow angle to the bedding. It is product of Alion Stone quarries in England. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2246: I am concerned about fabricating three slabs of Seafoam Green that have
been filled with epoxy and covered with mesh at the factory prior to shipping. The supplier refuses to warranty the slabs and my client loves the color (these particular slabs are very unique in that they have a lot of olive in them). The contractor wants me to warranty to installation- but I'm worried about cutting them. What do you think? Thanks- Kam, July 16, Reply

R1: Dear Kam: Lots of olive? I like them a lot in my Greek salad!!
Joke aside, if the supplier refuses to warranty the slabs, tell the contractor to try to force them, not you. Do NOT do any stupid thing like that. You're a working guy, you don't need that kind of responsibility, do you! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panhelist.

Q 2245: We have a bit of a problem... My school has a wonderful brass compass embedded in the floor tiles of the main entrance hall. We were able to clean the brass compass with vinegar. We noticed the surrounding slate tiles are now lighter. They were gray, blue and some deep red. The red slate seems about the same color, the gray and blue and very light now. They had 60+ years of build up, and we thought the old wax was coming off. What do you think, and what should we do to make them all look alike again? Thanks for you time, Eager in the East, July 16, Reply

Q 2244: Does anyone have empirical information (or even an opinion) regarding the comparative heat resistance of granite and "manufactured stone" (such as Zodiaq and Silestone)? Because I would wanted a very light colored countertop, I was leaning towards manufactured stone. I read, however, something that suggested that manufactured stone shouldn't be used as a regular "landing pad" for stuff coming out of the oven. I would appreciate any information. Marianne, July 16. Reply

R1: Dear Marianne: Whoever told you that was right. The approximately 6% of resin in engineered stone (which is the bonding agent of the quartz chips) could be damage by the
heat of a pot.
Now, about this thing that light colored "granite" is usually bad as far as maintenance is concerned> Tur geological granite is either white, or light gray, or pinkish, and its porosity is quite controllable with a good quality sealer! I don't know, are those color light enough for you? Check the "Bianco Sardo" granite (a.k.a. "Luna Pearl"). It's a great stone!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2243:I have sandstone block foundation on my 101 year-old home, here in Lakewood, OH a suburb of Cleveland.
I wish to make my basement as dry as possible and am taking the steps to parge the outside and provide necessary draintile and stone. The inside however, has been painted by previous owners. Some areas the paint seems to have a very good hold on the wall while other areas the paint flakes right off.
I would like to remove as much paint as possible, then coat the entire wall with ___________(?) to seal it the best way possible.
Note: I have no problems with interior moisture. Pipes are insulated and have recently poured a new insulated slab with interior draintile, gravel, visqueen, etc. Hope to eventually furr out the interior foundation walls for a new family room.
Your recommendations of the extent of paint removal, wall prep, and then coatings are appreciated and any tips of caution when I furr out the walls. Jeffery, July 15. Reply

Q 2242: Thanks for the great website. Lots of useful information. We just went through a complete kitchen remodel. We got a black/green Uba Tuba countertop. After the counter was installed, it had to be removed because the contractor installed the wrong sink. The new countertop has a square edge instead of the beveled edge the earlier one had. We didn't consider this a problem until the first use, when a plate I was putting into the dishwasher struck the edge and chipped a piece of the countertop off! It was not even a hard blow! Now we're nervous when we work in the kitchen. Is this normal for this product, or do I have a bad piece? Is it the edge? If so, can I insist that it be replaced - our contract says "standard edge?" Thanks. Tim, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Tim: Starting from the end, you've got to define "standard edge" for me! It could be anything. The problem you reported is typical fo many a "granite" especially labradorite-based stones like the UbaTuba. And yes, a sharp edge enhance the possibility of chipping. The best type of edge for that purpose would be the full bullnose.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Maurizio, Thanks for your prompt and helpful reply. We are insisting that our contractor replace the straight edge and sharp corners. The "standard edge" which was pointed out to us in the showroom is a beveled edge with rounded corners (the countertop that was installed across the room has this correct beveled edge, as well as rounded corners). Instead, we've got straight edges with pointed corners on this countertop. Yesterday, the contractor sent over his "granite man" who proceeded to take out a grinder. He assured me he could grind down the edges to match the others, without making a mess of the whole kitchen. After hearing my doubts expressed, he patched the chip and left, saying he'd come back next week with a vacuum to do the work. This sounds like real sloppy cut n' paste to me. Is this a professional fix? How can a handheld grinder achieve an even cut to match that on the other countertop? Should I insist that the countertop be removed and replaced, even though the tile backsplash, sink, etc. have all been installed? Thanks again! Tim

Q 2241: Please inform if you do know anything about the following types or names of stone and marble, or are they fantasy names. In the past twenty years of my experience in this field I have seen many alternative names given to natural stones. Could this be the same case? MEUCHATEL MARBLE, MARILU STONE, GREEN ROMINA MARBLE. I hope to receive any information that can be useful. Farah, UAE, July 15. Reply

R1: Dear Farah, I think MEUCHATEL is distortion from NEUCHATEL. Some limestones for building purposes were quarried near Neuchatel lake in Swiss. I have ever heard of MARILU STONE or ROMINA MARBLE, only of MALIBU migmatite from India. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist.

Q 2240: Hi, we have light gray tiles throughout our house and we dropped items in the kitchen and chipped a few, is there a product on the market to repair same? Also we have a marble table with glass rings and spots, how do we go about removing same? Yours truly, Ebba, Australia. July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Ebba: I don't know about the chipped tiles. I do know about the "water spots and rings". No you can't remove them: They are out already!! They are surface damages (not stains) and some of the marble actually came off. You need a professional stone refinisher to take care of your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2239: Last year we installed a flagstone walkway which was set in a sand base. Recently we noticed dark stains appearing on several random stones. We cannot identify the stain nor the reason why this is happening? Thank you, Roseanne, July 15. Reply

R1: Roseanne: You do not identify the type of stone ( flag stone describes a specific form, but not type) but aside from that, it is the nature of all stones to begin to darken and eventually turn gray/black because of a phenomenon called weathering, especially when directly exposed to the elements. The staining you are seeing is probably the beginning of this process, and is probably occurring where it is because these particular areas
1) stay a little wetter than the rest of the walk way, or 2) there is overhanging vegetation, or 3) your dog has taken a shine to these particular stones, or 4) a mineral streak in the stone that is oxidizing, or 5) a combination of the above. If you find it impossible to live with what is essentially momma natures way of putting a protective coat on the stone, then you are going to have to do it for her. First, try some bleach on the stains and see if it removes it. If it does, great! Then apply a sealer,, so that the little mildews and alga that cause this to happen have a harder time getting a toe hold on the stone. Then repeat this process oh once a year or so. Or sit back, let nature take its course, and enjoy walking your flagstone walk as it gently ages and settles into its new environment. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2238: Hello. This website is very informative and it must be very time-consuming for you to respond to everyone. I have noticed that in several of your comments, you infer that the "granite" people think they have in their homes is not granite at all. What might it be instead? I am asking because we have recently purchased a home with "granite" countertops but we do not know what they are or who installed them. After reading your site, I realized that we might have a problem already. The "granite" has a surface scratch (looks like a score mark) about an inch in length and about an inch from the sink... we assumed it was an error when the sink was installed and didn't make a big deal of it as it was a surface mark (we hope). The building inspector suggested we get someone in to polish it out but we thought we could live with it. I'm interested to know what you think. Where do people buy the products you recommend for cleaning countertops? Are these cleaners non-toxic (we have a small child)? Thanks for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Rebecca. July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Rebecca: I always put the word "granite" in between quotation marks, because, in fact, appproximately the 98% (no, it's not a typo) of the stone traded as granite are not granite. They can be gabbro, dolerite, larvikite, anorthiste, gneis, porphyry, granidorite, anidrite, etc., through a long list. That doesn't mean that they are not as good as true geological granite. As a matter of fact, some of them are better than granite; at the other end, unfortunately, there are "granites" that, in my opinion, should be banned altogether. But, hey, it's just me!
As far your problem is concerned, a scratch could have happen to any stone, true granite included. Yes, you do need a professional stone refinisher to take a look at it.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should enlighten you further about "granite". Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2237: I've selected Tan Brown granite for my kitchen. How is its impenetrability? Will it require a sealer? I purchased Ubaberde and Prelude vanity tops. Do they require sealers? Thanks, Barbara, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Barbara: I seldom give direct answers about a particular stone physical characteristics, because the names can be quite deceiving.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2236: I have looked at many articles in this very useful page, and have not come across a way to tell Marble and Granite apart just by looking at it. To the untrained eye they look very similar, I have also noticed that out of the two sample tiles I picked; one has a mesh type backing glued to the back. Any relation to the type stone it is if a mesh is seen? Hector, July 15, Reply

R2: Dear Hector, granites are generally composed from visible multicolored grains. Typically grain of one color is connected with grains of other colors, e.g. grey quartz is closed to pink orthoclase, white plagioclase, black mica. Granite is mixture of the minerals. Marbles are either without visible grains of calcite (limestones), either connect calcite grains of similar color (true marbles). Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist.

R1: Dear Hector: Nobody can teach how to recognize marble from "granite". Usually, the mesch-type backing is typically applied to marble or travertine (they are more fragile than "granite"). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2235: I am looking for the technical and physical properties of Phalstain Jeruslem Lime Stone. Is is good for usage at external facade cladding at the Gulf region? What is the minimum thickness required for 1700x400 mm panel for the above mentioned activity? Thanks, Arch, Tamer. July 15. Reply

R1: Dear Arch: I have recently investigated in detail over 60 cream-coloured limestones
from all over the world for an architect who wants to do the same as you. We have 4 semi-finalists and Jerusalem limestone is not one of them! There are about 7 limestone varieties under the umbrella of Jerusalem limestone - which one specifically are you interested in? Unfortunately, your question is not sufficiently specific to allow me to answer you. For example, which Gulf, is it covered by a roof, what are the fixings, to what height, etc. Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist.

Q 2234: I recently purchased a historic townhouse in Chicago IL. The brick exterior of the house had been painted. I wanted the paint removed. Without research I hired a crew to remove the paint. It turns out that they used a sandblasting technique to remove the paint. I was later informed by the city landmark commission that I had made a huge mistake. Is there anyway to repair the damage that has been done, and maintain the integrity of our new home? Pete, July 15. Reply

Q 2233: Is there anyone who can point me in the right direction in learning to carve my own Chess set? Thanks, Jarrod, July 15, Reply

Q 2232: Thanks a lot for making it possible to ask questions spontaneously.
I am part of a research group at MIT's Media-Lab. Part of our research project involves projection on a stone table. Travertine would be ideal for this job. I wondered whether you could advise me about some of the physical properties of travertine.
Our table will be built of 1"-1.5" thick slabs laid one on top of each other, held by threaded rods from top to bottom. This will create a building block wall effect. Each slab will be 35" x 7".
Do you know whether it is possible to cut internal corners in Travertine?
Is putting a threaded rod through a hole in a slab of Travertine running the risk of stone breakage?
Who would recommend us to turn to for the supply and cutting job of such kind (we are located in Boston MA), or at where would it be efficient to start looking?
What price should we expect to pay assuming this table is 35" x 35" x 35"?
I am aware that it might be difficult to understand what this object I mentioned looks like. If you think you can help me but can not understand my description please let me know and I will send you a Cad drawing or a jpeg of it. I highly appreciate your willingness to help. Thanks, Assaf, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Assaf: You're absolutely right, my friend: I did not understand one single thing about that particular project!! Sorry, I must be getting senile or something!! ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Thanks a lot for your kind service. Assaf.

Q 2231: We have a bench in front of our brick fireplace made of light gray limestone that is cut and smooth, but not polished. Over the years, the place where people sit on the bench in their grubby jeans has turned the surface dark and greasy-looking. The ends of the bench are still light gray. I've tried the usual household dirt/grease cleaners, but they don't do a thing. Help, please.... Cheryl, July 15, Contact

R1: Dear Cheryl: Have your friend sit on the clean areas of the bench until they become dirty, too!!
Jokes aside, try a solution of hot water and household bleach (3:1), a natural fiber brush (tampico -- like the ones they used to do laundry), and a few gallons of elbow-greese!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2230: What is pinola stone & therma stone? Janet, July 15, Contact

R1: Dear Janet, 5. PINOLA STONE or Pine Stone comes from Georgia, USA. This probably calcareous sandstone has a white background with blends of caramel, purple, red, and blue all mixed throughout. This type for stone can be used as a stack stone, veneer, for patio, walkway flagstone, landscape stone, or for a water feature environment, and also for interiors. I have ever heard of THERMA STONE. Therma floor is a gypsum under layment designed to pour over hot water tubes or electric heating cables. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist.

Q 2229: I would like to get book about stones. Dingpastrana, July 15, Contact

R1: Dear Dingpastrana: If you can't find the information about stone that you're looking for in this very site, log on Amazon.com!!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2228: My husband and I are interested in buying a stone home that was built in the early 40's in east Tennessee. The lines and the warmth of the stone exterior are what attract us to this home. My concern is with the color of the stone. It has a pink cast and I would prefer gray or brown. Is there a product that can stain or glaze a stone exterior that and might knock off the shade of pink? Please let me know any options I might have? Christy? July 15, Contact

R1: Dear Christy: Staining stone??? Please!!!!! You'll have to learn how to appreciate what you have and live with it! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2227: I have a smooth surface sandstone fireplace that is dirty from age and creosote around the hearth opening. I would LOVE to restore it to it's natural state (the home is 80 years old and I'm sure it has never been cleaned). What would work best - especially since there are very large sections of the sandstone that make up the fireplace and I don't want it to get streaks since they would be so noticeable. Do commercial products work (of which I have not been able to find any specifically for sandstone - and no one that can tell me of any) - or is there something homemade I can use? I know it can be cleaned since my sister-in-law had a fire in her home and her sandstone fireplace that had roses carved in it - was cleaned beautifully. Unfortunately - NO ONE remembers "who" cleaned it - let alone what they used!!!!! So I know - after seeing the before and after of THAT fireplace that it can be done. Right now it's an eyesore in an otherwise beautiful living room. Any help you can give me would be GREATLY appreciated. Cathy July 15, Reply

R2: Cathy: Maurizio's reply is probably the best way to go about this. However, I do have another suggestion that you might want to try first. Get a hold of an old fashioned "art gum" eraser --the tan crumbly kind -- put a drop cloth or paper down on the hearth, and try erasing your discoloring. Not sure if this will work on your stone, but it sure does on the white limestone commonly used here in Texas. Best to try it first on a discrete out of sight area if possible. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Cathy, I'm wondering how many ways to spell your name there are in the
English language!! Keep your windows wide opened, then use a solution of hot water and household bleach (3 of water and 1 of bleach) with a natural fiber (tampico) brush and a lot of ... Elbow-grease. You can find the latter ingredient on isle 12 at your local supermarket!! :-) Ciao, good luck and don't breath too deeply! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2226: I just moved into a home with a rough / brick style sandstone fireplace. The problem is that around the fireplace at the walls, the stone has gotten paint on it. It appears as though the owners tired to wash it off or clean it and now it appears in some areas as a colored haze in the pores. I don't know if it's oil based or water based paint. I was thinking of trying a wire brush to remove it. From what I read on the site, a poultice is best used for smooth surfaces? Would it even make sense to try poulticing the paint off or the wire brush or some kind of chemical? Thanks for any help, John, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear John: Neither. Poulticing is for deeply inbedded stains only. Paint is typically on the surface or just barely below it. The wire brush could be harsh a means. Soak your stone with a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it) and a natural fiber brush (tampico), like the ones used to do laundry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2225: Hi! We recently acquired some soapstone countertops that appear to have been varnished. Any suggestions on how best to remove it? Linda, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: That's quite unusual, all right! Never heard of such a thing before! Anyway, it seems to me that you need to use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2224: I am doing an exterior suspended terrace project in NYC. A very hard "sandstone" called Cathedral" was recommended. It looks good, but it would seem that the nature of sandstone would suggest that it is soft and would absorb liquid and thus stain easily. Have you heard of this? Can it be sealed? with what? Thank You. Jack, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Jack: It may be a very hard stone (and it is. But who cares, nobody is going to walk on it!), but it sure absorbs like a sponge! Your fear are certainly not groundless. A good-quality penetrating sealer may help, but only to a certain extent, and considering that's going to be outdoors in the NYC weather, it will be short lived, as well.
Of course, since there's no way to change the architect's (or decorator's) mind, just go ahead and install it. What do you care, unless you're the homeowner?! ...Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2223: In the light I can see many hard water spots. My question is what is the best way to remove those spots. Now, when I am directly over the counter you can't see the water spots, but at certain angles and reflection I see many spots. Advise? July 15, Reply

R1: Dear ???: Besides the fact that you're a moron anonymous (which I wouldn't bother
answering to anyway), you don't even say on which material you're seeing those water spots! What don't you ask your brother: He doesn't care to have your name! Ciao, Maurizio, Expert Panelist.

Q 2222: I have a cement patio that has some cracks in it. I was thinking of having slate installed over the concrete. I live in the Midwest (cold winters, hot summers). Would slate be a feasible solution to give my patio a new look? Thanks, Anita, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Anita: Yes, providing that the installation contractor is going to put a good-quality anti-fracture membrane over the concrete slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2221: Dear Bill, I am the manager of a stone processing company, situated in Constanta, Romania. In my area, there are some resources of shellstone, alike the Mexican one. I intend to open a quarry, but I need more information to establish what the market potential for this stone is. Any advice or help about this matter will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Daniel, Romania, July 15, Reply

Q 2220: We are trying to decide between fiberglass and sandstone for a tub surround, or whether or not to just replace the existing tiles and grout which are mildewed and cracked. what are the pros and cons of each? Joyce, USA, July 15, Reply

Q 2219: I have domestic autumn slate installed in my master bath shower. There is a wet look lacquer that has been used as a sealer for about 1 year. Soap scum and calcium deposits warrant a very good cleaning. What is the best way to strip this? What is the best sealer to put on slate in a shower that will be used daily? For future reference, what is the best way to clean slate? Veronica, USA, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Veronica: To remove the current topical sealer you'll need to use a potent paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it). After that I don't know the answer to your other questions. I'm not that familiar with slate and, most importantly, I don't believe in shellac-type topical sealers. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2218: Could you tell me the best way to clean sandstone that has been layed around my foundation. It is about 3" high and 18 " - 24" long and has morter joints just like brick. They have been on the house since 1963 ans are very dirty. I would like to clean them so they look nicer, we also have plants in the same area. Hope you have a solution Thank you Francis, USA, July 15, Reply

Q 2217: Hi, I need to know if there are any toxicity considerations that I should be aware of when working with or fixing natural stone? Regards, Jo, USA, July 15, Reply

R1: Dear Jo: The dust of the marble and granite (silica) is harmful to your lungs. You should protect your respiratory system all the time when working dry (thus generating dust). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, US, Expert Panelist.

Q 2216: I do not know the name of my granite countertops or if they had impregnator applied. The granite is black with grey flecks. I have what I believe to be lime build-up around the sink where hard water has splashed and dried over a period of about 3 years. Regarding cleaners, I have been using Clorox clean-up on my counters on a regular basis and haven't noticed any problems but I am building a new house and will have Uba Tuba in the kitchen. I want to make sure I don't damage the new countertops as well. Thank you so much for any advice you can give me. July 15, Reply

R1: Dear ???: Do you see the question marks after the dear? Well, I don't answer to
question marks. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2215: Hi, I’m from Bali, Indonesia, and am currently re-finishing a pool that was badly made. I was wondering if you could tell me, what type of sealer I should use for the palimanan (White limestone) and if the sealer will stop the palimanan from turning yellow / cream when water is in contact with it. Regards, SAM, July 15, Reply

Q 2214: I installed a White Carrara marble in my bathroom. After a year all the marble has yellow stains. I would like to know if it is something wrong in the installation. Or the quality of the marble, can there be bad quality marble Carrara or all white marble stains yellow. Or is something wrong in the surface where the marble was installed? Can there be some kind of water filtration? Or fungus? How can I fix this? and return the original color of the white Carrara stone? Thanks, Beatriz, July 12, Reply

R7: Surely this defect depends from the material used to fix this marble. May be the fixer used mastic or resin and the oil in this materials, after some months entered inside the material. Never must forgotten that the stone, some more, some less, absorbs liquid, and the fixer or waterproof the marble or must use the right material. Tiscalinet, Italy

R6: There are many kind of white Carrara. There are also some type that get yellow after laying, it's normal.
If you make the right treatment with hydro-repellent solvent you solve the problem for ever, otherwise you can try to use oxygen-water 90% (be careful!!!) mixed with water (50%) and white.....(we call bicarbonato di sodio), then put on the floor for a couple of hours.
If the marble will be a little more white ok, otherwise you have to keep the yellow ground for ever! I'm now wonder why the supplier didn't tell these things before? Good luck, Nicola, Italy.

R5: This is the typical problem of material installed with cement and without white glue.
All crystalline materials must be installed with white glue (Mapei or similar).
If cement is used, sometimes happen that some impurity in cement (such as iron) tend to rust over the years and turn material to yellow. This happens when the surrounding is humid. Giuliano, Geologist, Stone Consultant. Italy.

R4: DEAR BEATRIZ, I AM ANSWERING ONLY BECAUSE YOUR NAME REMIND ME A WONDERFUL GIRLFRIEND I HAD IN BOGOTA'.
THE YELLOW STAIN ON CARRARA IS DUE ONLY TO THE MATERIAL YOU USED FOR INSTALLING, OR PRESENCE OF PIECES OF IRON OR SOMETHING ELSE UNDER THE FLOOR.
IF YOU INSTALLED WITH NORMAL CEMENT MIXED WITH SAND, IF YOU HAVE IRON MINERALS IN THE SAND, YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE YELLOW STAINS ON CARRARA, IT' S NOT DUE TO MARBLE, IT'S DUE TO THE CEMENT OR THE SAND OR BOTH.
ALWAYS USE PRODUCTS FOR CERAMICS, WHITE PRODUCTS YOU NORMALLY FIND IN STORES.
NOW YOU CAN FIX THE PROBLEM IN THIS WAY: YOU MAKE A "PASTE" WITH POWDER OF GYPSUM (IT'S LIKE A CEMENT) MIXED WITH OXYGENATED WATER (HYDROGEN PEROXIDE LIKE YOU USE FOR MEDICALS) AT THE HIGHER PERCENTAGE YOU FIND IN THE MARKET.
YOU MIX AND MAKE A PASTE, CONSISTENCY LIKE THAT OF TOOTH PASTE AND PUT IT ON STAINS, LEAVING UNTIL IT' S HARD. AFTER YOU REMOVE AND CLEAN WITH NORMAL WATER; DO IT SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL WHEN YOU SOLVE THE PROBLEM, IT'S THE ONLY WAY. TRY TO CHECK IF YOU HAVE LOST OF WATER UNDER THE FLOOR, IT' S IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK, BEATRIZ, WHAT A NICE NAME YOU HAVE. VINICIO, ITALY

R3: Dear Beatriz: There must be something wrong with the installation. Check all around your stall and you will see that grout and calk are missing (maybe the tiles had been set "butt-joint"; that'll do it, all right!)
White Carrara marble has a considerable amount of iron mineral within. When water finds its way behind the tiles, moisture will migrate through the core of the stone, thus oxidizing the iron mineral. In other words, your tile are rusted through and through. It's terminal. The only solution is to rip out the whole thing and start all over. Sorry about the bad news. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R2: Probably the installer use black cement that is not good for this or the quality of White Marble is too soft. You have to change the marble and replace it with a good quality marble and install with the right product. With best regards, Alessandro, Italy.

R1: Dear Mrs. Beatriz, the problem is there was ferrous parts in the water used to put on the Bianco Carrara.
It's not very simple to resolve, there are many different liquid products to put on the Marble.
Please contact me, I can try to resolve your problem. Best regards, Davini, Italy.

Dear fellow participants from Italy (all of you): It's quite amazing to realize that, all of a sudden, when one particular marble (White Carrara) gets into the picture, a whole army of experts from Italy come out of the woodwork and post answers! What's also amazing is that none of those answers is even close to being the right one!
Sorry, fellows! (Mi dispiace, amici!) Nicola states that had they used some sort of penetrating sealer (trattamento antimacchia, it's called over there) our inquirer would have solved the problem for ever. Well, while the old saying goes: "NEVER say NEVER", there are a few "nevers" (or "for evers", for that matter; same difference!) that can be said. One of them is: Never believe blindly the advertisement pitch of a type of product! Sealers for stone (over here they are also called "Impregnators") only help preventing stains coming from without, not from within like in this case. (I ought to know: I make one of those products!)
Second, they are not for ever. Third Hydrogen Peroxide (Acqua ossigenata) doesn't do the first thing about metal stains. It's only good at removing organic and inorganic stains (still, only when they're generated from the surface of the stone down, not viceversa), period.
Giuliano, Vinicio (by the way, "molto romantico"!) and Alessandro, all make reference to the setting material. It should have been white thinset, they all say. That's right, but what the heck do you guys know that they didn't use white thinset? Because of the reported problem? For starters, gray thinset may darken the stone but never make it rust. Second -- and most important -- if the type of setting material were the culprit, the possible problems consequent to that would emerge within a couple of weeks, tops, not certainly after one year! Everybody is missing the mark big time, here!
Can't you guys read what the lady's saying?! AFTER A YEAR! Same thing goes with Davini's comment: How can the (hypothetical) presence of iron (ferrous) in the water cause any damage after one year??! The truth is that "White Carrara" marbles -- all of them -- contain a certain percentage of iron mineral (it's not an hypothetical statement, it's a plain fact) and if, somehow, you have a constant migration of moisture through the core of the stone -- like in the case when water finds its way behind and/or under the tiles -- the marble will get oxidized and show on the surface in the form of yellow, rusty stains. It's that simple! And to you all: Forget about the Hydrogen Peroxide (acqua ossigenata) thing to remove rust stains (from the surface, that is) it just won't work.
Se volete corrispondere con me, inviate un (if you want to correspond with me, send an) E-mail info@findstone.com Ciao a tutti e grazie per il vostro intervento, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Hi All, Thanks for all your answers and help. I will buy the products and try them out. I wanted to know how can I know if the marble Carrara White is of bad quality or soft white Carrara? Is there any test I can make? I wanted you to know that from the time I built the house and installation was done, only three years have passed.
My installer says he used white Mapei glue to install the Bianco Carrara. I wonder if the cement that is under Mapei glue could pass moisture through the Mapei glue to the white marble? Thanks again. Beatriz

R4: Caro Maurizio, hai ragione su quello che dici, però soltanto in parte !
Difatti ci sono alcuni titpi di Carrara che cambiano " sempre" sia adoperando collanti bianchi o con malete pozzolaniche.
Altri, nemmeno se vengono posati con ferro diventano gialli.
Come mai?
Di fatto c'è che purtroppo a Carrara queste cose si sanno, ma nn vengono dette per paura di svilire il prodotto che comunque se fosse trattato prima si risolverebbero comunque.
Per tua informazione, comunque l'acqua ossigenata funziona, eccome se funziona. Hai mai provato? Saluti, Nicola.

R3: You will see a good products if:
1) It must be compact and of fine grain
2) to check this a tile must sound when touch
3) also you have to see water absorption and try to put some water on dry tile; if the marble absorb too much you will see darker spots or water, if not the marble is compact and good.
4) A good White Carrara marble must have not too many holes "taroli", just some is ok and normal, but not too much. With best regards. Alessandro, Italy

R2: HI BEATRIZ, YOU WANT TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM ? ASK DIRECTLY TO MAURIZIO, LEAVING THE OTHER SUGGESTIONS, OTHERWISE YOU BECAME CRAZY.
I THINK THAT ANY SUGGESTION WAS SENT TO YOU BECAUSE OF A PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, THAT' S WHY I SENT YOU MINE.
BUT ALL OF US WERE DESTROYED FROM MAURIZIO' S ANALYSIS, HE' S GOING TO BE THE MARBLE PROBLEMS NOBEL PRIZE 2002.
MAURIZIO, MA DOVE CAZZO TI ERI CACCIATO ? HO SEMPRE SOGNATO DI CONOSCERE UN ESPERTO COME TE, MI AVRESTI RISOLTO UN SACCO DI ROGNE IN GIRO PER IL MONDO. MANDAMI IL TUO E-MAIL, VOGLIO CONOSCERTI. VINICIO, Italy

R1: Dear Beatriz: There's no such a thing like a bad quality White Carrara marble -- at least not in the sense that you mean (soft???). All White Carrara marbles contain a certain percentage of iron mineral within. Like I said, don't look for answers that can go back a year or better. If you have a problem NOW, the answer can only be found in the recent past! Like I said in my answer, check your grout and caulk lines. You will find out, not doubt, that some grout or caulk is missing and therefore water found its way behind and under your marble tiles. That's all there is to it, no other explanation. That's typical (but not exclusive) to a a "butt-joint" installation (when the tiles are set tight to one another. It's a faulty installation in a shower enclosure).
And again, it's terminal. Don't waste your time trying useless products or procedures. It will only increase your frustration! (Mark my words, because I KNOW you won't believe me right now and you WILL try something, before giving in!! It's human nature at work!) Have the whole thing ripped out and start all over, making sure that when they install the new tiles (no matter what they are made of) they leave 1/16" gap for proper grouting. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Dear All, specially Maurizio,
I do want to apologize I didn't mean to create such a discussion.
I am really sorry. When I posted the question, my husband was decided to sue the person who sold us the marble.
It is a person who lives in Italy. My decorator is also an Italian. He was angry with the two of them. My husband was really angry because we also have a friend that worked with the same decorator and the same marble supplier has the same Carrara marble and his marble is also yellowing. So, the two where going to sue the supplier together. One of the complains was, as someone in site said: Why didn't the supplier say something on this regard?
I only was preventing him to sue. Because I think, you always know how you begin a battle but never know how much it will cost you at the end. So I thought, if I can find something to fix it, to prevent all this hassle, it was a good idea.
Well, when I read all the messages. I bought the oxygen water, did the mix and it worked. Many of the yellow stains went. Not all. But many did.
When this happened I thought something is wrong? In the messages it was also clear that after so long, the stains will not disappear. So I asked my husband, who was hysterical at the time Ii posted the question, and did not want to talk about the issue only sue, sue with his friend. They were only insulting the supplier, etc. You have to understand we have all the bathroom walls, floor, shower, etc covered with the white Carrara marble. It was a very expensive job.
So when the stains disappeared, I told my husband how strange that the stains disappear? At that moment, my husband was happier, and told me that from the very beginning after the installer did the job the marble began to yellow. He had a person, some kind of specialist, come in and every time he brought a mix, that would charge him 50.00 A pound, put it on the marble and whiten the yellow spots. But eventually the building of the house finished, and the specialist got lost (maybe he went to rip off someone else). And the stone got yellow stains all over again.
I feel a bit bad because you were really a lot of help. I am sorry a discussion came about. I really want to say thank you, because the mix did work for me. I would like Maurizio to know that the site is wonderful, helpful and without the site I would be in some lawyers office today. But I also need to apologize, because I did not have all the information with me. And at the moment, I only wrote what I knew. That is after living in the house the marble began to yellow. I never knew what my husband told me, after I had posted the question. I am really sorry.
My husband and his friend do insist that the marble is of bad quality, someone (some kind of specialist, another one!!) told my friend who has the same problem, that good quality Carrara marble does not stain. I really don't know. What I could read from the site is that there is no bad quality marble. That is why I posted this question on my second post. Because they where insisting to sue the supplier because the marble was of bad quality. I hope Maurizio can forgive me and all the Italians that help can also forgive me for the bad time I caused you, because I did not all the information available.
I still have another problem with the white marble. But I will leave this for another post.
Thank you all very much, Sorry for the discomfort. Take care. Beatriz

R1: YES, WE WON THE STAINS ( MORE OR LESS ). R4 / R5 / R6 WERE THE BEST ANSWERS, (ME, NICOLA AND GIULIANO) I NEVER TRIED WITH BICARBONATE, LIKE NICOLA SAID, INSTEAD OF GYPSUM. I' LL DO IT TO SEE WHAT' S BETTER. WHEN YOU WILL PAY A PIZZA TO US ? ALL THE BEST FOR YOU AND YOUR CARRARA STAINS. VINICIO, ITALY. July 22.

R2: Dear all: I guess I owe you an apology. First off, we learned now that the problem started from the get-go, and not after a year. Had I known that, my diagnosis would have been different and probably in line with one of those that you guys posted. I must also
conclude that the yellowing of the stone was not really rust (trust me guys, you can't
remove rust with Hydrogen Peroxide), but some other inorganic matter that, as
Nicola says, may be typical of a few Carrara marbles. That said, I want you all to understand that "debate" is my middle name and my specialty!! It's part of my character and, no matter how it sounds, never means to insult anybody (unless I openly state so, which is not at all unusual!!) I believe that debate is good, constructive and ... a lot of fun,
too!
What's most important, is that our debate produced a positive result. I'm glad that Beatriz was able to solve her problem thanks to you guys (not certainly me, in this case!) Ciao everybody, Maurizio.

Dear ALL, and Maurizio,
Thanks again.
Hope to visit you All and invite you for a PIZZA.
Just for the records, I used the gypsum powder mix with the oxygen water 40%.
I could not find higher % in the market.
My next problem with the same white marble is that it has dark grayish stains in the shape of spilled water. But water was not spilled. But it looks like it comes from under the stone. Not from the top. It is just in the floor, not on the walls or shower or sink tabletop. Dont ask me when it started? (HAHAHA, I will have to investigate more!). My husband got in love with the oxygen water and put it pure on the floor I don't know what reaction can that do? But it seems that this grayish water shaped stains are getting whiter. Can you comment on this? It is OK to do this? The Rosa Verona that is in the floor as decoration is bleeding, or it is the grout color that is bleeding. I don't know. Thanks for all the feedback. Regards, Beatriz

Q 2213: I have selected Italian Botticino for the flooring of my sitting and dining area. Will this stone wear well? Also for the bedrooms is an Indian marble called Pearl White suitable? My Contractor says that this marble absorbs water while being laid and develops prominent cracks along veins. I am confused as this stone seems to be used extensively in India for flooring. Would appreciate your expert opinion on these issues. Thanks and Regards, Kalpana, July 12, Reply

R1: Dear Kalpana: While I have no comment about the Pearl White marble you mentioned (I just don't know the stone), the Italian Botticino is an excellent compact limestone, very hard and dense. Of course, you do not want to install it polished in your sitting and dining area, but if it has a hone finish you will enjoy it for many years to come. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2212: Need information on filling holes in terrazzo resulting from carpet removal. Jacobs, July 12, Reply

R1: Dear Jacobs: You can use either unsanded grout to match the terrazzo's background color (if any), or just plain "Portland" cement, if color matching is not an issue.
Once the material you used is dry, sand the repairs flush with the rest of the floor. And remember, "terrazzo" is marble, and your floor will require the same maintenance as a marble floor.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2211: We are in the homebuilding business. Granite has exploded in popularity for kitchen countertops. I am interested in developing a Scope of Work for the purchase and installation of granite. Please recommend where I can gather the information. Peter,
July 12, Reply

R1: Dear Peter: Send an E-mail to: info@findstone.com and I'll be glad to point you in
the right direction. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2210: I have just moved into a 130 year old house in Sheffield in the UK with limestone external walls. The walls are unsurprisingly very grimey after 130 years and I am interested in the most suitable solution for cleaning - is it best to sandblast, waterblast or chemical clean? Whichever method is the most suitable, what products (chemicals, biocides etc?) should I be using?
I am thinking of doing it myself (fairly good at DIY) and am keen not to use a method which would require extensive repointing - the pointing is actually fairly good as the house was repointed a few years back (but the stone wasn't cleaned).
Could someone also advise what should be applied as a protective coat once the cleaning has taken place? Many Thanks, Ben, July 12, Reply

R2: Dear Ben: Firstly I would really think twice about using an abrasive method of cleaning such as sand blasting or using chemicals short term they may have a pleasing aesthetic result. Long term you may impair the stone face aesthetically and structurally.
You can send me a picture and I will try to help you. I am familiar with conditions in industrialized cities such as Sheffield.
Any restoration should start with preparation so first make sure that no organic material is in touch with the stone to avoid any dissimilar reactions in future this includes anything that may be climbing the stone façade such as creepers or Ivy make sure flower bed earth and any other material is not in contact with the façade above the DPC level. It is also important to note that a healthy façade is one that sheds moisture not retains it. It may be worth your while testing various parts of the façade with a damp probe (you can rent them or if you have a friend who is a building surveyor you might be able to borrow one). Ensuring adequate ventilation is a must you actions in cleaning the façade with high pressure water may cause more damage than you think.
It is quite common in your climate that buildings are damp; when you clean your façade you may find that the colouration of the limestone varies significantly where moisture content varies and in trying to achieve a homogenous finish during cleaning you could damage the surface of the stone. Be very careful around rain water goods as you may well uncover stains where Iron fixings have been used and the current patination is covering this.
The most appropriate method of cleaning will be using a high pressure hose system with an action nozzle such as a pulse effect.
Select a neutral area were you can test the effects of your labours. Try spraying in circles and don’t try to have too much effect in one go (You can always let it dry and give a second treatment later). Try to vary distances action and angle to achieve the best finish, note the time and application in order to try to devise a way of achieving the most appropriate homogenous finish. If surface treatment is evident, such as sealants or anti graffiti paints or other chemical treatment cease treatment immediately and consult an expert as often when surface treatments have been applied to limestone delamination of a surface layer occurs during the cleaning action. Delamination occurs because surface treatments lock in moisture beneath the application changing the physical make up of the stone. Natural patination can also cause the same effect especially in heavily industrialised atmospheres and where the stone has been well exposed (such as West Facades against the prevailing winds). Always try to avoid over saturating the stone especially where the façade is shaded or where surface salts may be present. If salt emission is high (if salt debris collects on the surface) then you should correct this before you consider cleaning as you may well provide the catalyst for future structural damage.
In a project like this you should always ensure your façade is working before attempting the cosmetic stuff, Steve, Poland.

R1: Dear Ben: Personally I'm very much against sand-blasting. If it were up to me I'd ban
it all together!
If I were you I'd try to power wash it with a solution of hot water and bleach (4:1) keeping the pressure at no more than 900 PSI. Keep me posted. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2209: I have 3 problems. The 1st one is I have a ceramic tile bathroom floor, the tiles are 1” sq. I cleaned the grout with bleach, it cleaned the grout well, but it seems to have lightened the color of the tiles. The tile colors are: dark yellow, light yellow, & white with dark gray flecks. How can I clean the grout without discoloring the tiles? When I do clean the tiles, how can I seal the grout to prevent future build-up of dirt?
The 2nd: I have a cut stone (non-functioning) fireplace. I don’t know what type of stone it is, I think it may be sandstone, the color is gray and a few of the stones are a brown color, if this helps “I.D.” the stone. There are black marks on some of the stones; my guess is it is dirt. What can I do to clean the black marks. Both the tile floor & the fireplace were done in 1966.
The 3rd and most serious: There is something forming on my basement walls, I don’t know how to describe it, but it looks like a “bubblly” substance. It is dry to the touch. I think it may have to do with rainwater seeping into the walls. Perhaps it is some kind of chemical reaction between the rainwater and materials that the walls are composed of. (They are cement with a coat of latex paint on them.)
In another section of the basement there’s old sandstone walls (from 1927) with whitewash on them, sometimes when it rains water seeps into the walls & I’ve noticed there’s a deterioration of these walls. What can I do to remedy the afore mentioned problems? Thanks, Vincolo, July 12, Reply

R1: Dear Vincolo: 1. There's no way that bleach can discolor ceramic tiles, NO WAY! Period, no debate, end of story!
What most likely happened is that the bleach cleaned the tile surface (installed since 1966 ... it makes sense, all right!) along with the grout. It's not a problem, you should be actually happy about it!
2. Try to poultice the stains with bleach (it will make the whole stone to become of a lighter color again! After so many years!!)
3. I'm no engineer, sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2208: How can I refinish an interior slate floor that has little or no maintenance for 10 years. Plenty of scuff marks, liquid spills and just plain dirt. Will sanding have any adverse effect on the slate? I was told a mixture of turpentine and linseed oil may work. What proportions of each are to be used? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks,
Nick, July 12, Reply

R3: The first thing we need to do is correct what turpentine and boiled linseed oil is used for. It is to color enhance the stone or bring out richer color tones seen when wet. When sealed after application it can be durable for an interior low to medium traffic area with proper maintenance.
To deep clean the floor here is one simple approach:
Start by renting a low rpm buffer and a scrubbing attachment with lots of water and a neutral pH stone cleaner.
Rent or purchase a wet/dry vacuum.
Purchase a neutral pH stone cleaner.
Mop the area with lots of water and a neutral pH cleaner (make the area real wet.)
Scrub it with the buffer.
Remove the dirty mixture with the vacuum.
Repeat until clean.
You may find the scuff marks don't come out, you then decide if you want to color enhance (linseed & turpentine) or buy one off the shelf, and seal the floor.
Get in touch with me directly or Maurizio for more detailed responses. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

R2: Dear Nick, If scuff mark is created by shoes mark of surface traffic it can be clean up easily by alkaline cleaner with soft brush, clean up the residue before it dry, rinse with neutral cleaner.
I propose to seal with Sealer; there is sealer available in Low sheen with slight enhancement (Slate Sealer) or if you prefer Enhancing with no sheen result. Importance of Sealer; U. V. resistance, Breathable, I hope this help. Best regards, TAN, Singapore.

R1: The first thing we need to do is correct what turpentine and boiled linseed oil is used for. It is to color enhance the stone or bring out richer color tones seen when wet. When sealed after application it can be durable for an interior low to medium traffic area with proper maintenance.
To deep clean the floor here is one simple approach:
Start by renting a low rpm buffer and a scrubbing attachment with lots of water and a neutral pH stone cleaner.
Rent or purchase a wet/dry vacuum.
Purchase a neutral pH stone cleaner.
Mop the area with lots of water and a neutral pH cleaner (make the area real wet.)
Scrub it with the buffer.
Remove the dirty mixture with the vacuum.
Repeat until clean.
You may find the scuff marks don't come out, you then decide if you want to color enhance (linseed & turpentine) or buy one off the shelf, and seal the floor. Get in touch with me directly or Maurizio for more detailed responses. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2207: Need picture of pumice, shale, coquina . Luke, July 12, Reply

Q 2206: Need relevant information on real brownstone. Joanne S. July 12, Reply

Q 2205: We have purchased a copper sink to be installed in a new vanity. What type of top surface should I install for laying the stone or tile around the sink and what type of grout. The vanity is 24 X 26. Thanks, Clint, July 12, Reply

Q 2204: Hello there - Thanks for taking the trouble to put up such a useful page.
We have a client who wants us to acid etch 1000 pcs of Italian limestone. I have done this with very special pieces of marble in the past, (having had a lot of experience in the glass etching business) but I would appreciate a bit of advice. I would use self adhesive vinyl to mask out the polished face of the limestone, but how do people mask the edges and the back of the stone easily and economically? The panels will already be cut to size, so I can't make a well on top of the panels and cut the edges afterwards.
Surely it's not necessary to cover the whole back and edges of the panel with vinyl?
Isn't there a product we can paint or spray on which will stop the acid, and which can be stripped off after washing? Perhaps there' s another trick which prevents the back and sides from being etched? I would very much appreciate your input. Michael, UAE, July 10, Reply

Q 2203: I am using a resin glue to repair granite. When I apply it, how do I clean the excess glue without harming the stone? Ferdmann, July 12, Reply

R2: I recommend to use the Red devil scrapping blade which they use it for window to remove away the access, Please blunt the 2 sharp corner before use. Remaining residue can be easily remove by thinner or sealer and adhesive remover. I hope this help. Best regards
TAN, Singapore.

R1: Dear Ferdman: With # "0" steel-wool when it's almost hardened. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2202: I have a room, 20 by 15 feet, with a concrete floor covered with asphalt tile stuck down with asphalt cement - 50 years ago. I want to lay porcelain tile. But there is a layer of black asphalt cement on the concrete -- almost like paint -- tightly adhered. It will never come off -- even with solvent.
I have read a web expert saying - THIN-SET DOES NOT STICK TO MASTICS (like asphalt cement). I could use a liquid nails type mastic for the tile. That stuff sticks to asphalt cement -- or anything else I know of. But I think mastics are a bit unstable -- over many years. And that is why thin-set is usually used for floor tile.
So I am thinking of using thin-set -- but paint the asphalt cement with a lot of Home Depot "Acrylic Mortar Admix" -- a liquid made by Custom Bld. Prod. - "a latex additive for thin-sets, grouts and mortars". I use it in plaster for extra toughness. It is sort of like a glue -- similar to yellow wood glue -- but with lots of water. You use it instead of water in grout or cement. I think it would help stick the thin-set to the asphalt cement. Asphalt cement on concrete must be a common problem. What do the experts say? What do the experts think of my idea? I am in PA, Tom, July 10, Reply

R2: I say don't do it. Though the admix will develop a bond with the adhesive, the bond strength of adhesive to admix and stone may be greater than adhesive to concrete.
You should sand the adhesive off after you have made sure it does not contain asbestos.
If it contains asbestos or you are against sanding it then you recognize the risk you run and use a cleavage membrane like a felt glued to the slab and then thinset to that. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Hi Tom, I've similar problem 3 months ago, what I do is soak it with water for 24 hours, the next days it will soften use the scrapper, you could remove it easily. Hope this help, TAN, Singapore.

Q 2201: I have slate floors (black approx. 1/4" Thick random pieces) on the inside as well as the outside of my house.
The slate on the inside is over wood substrate and is about 30 years old. It is in excellent condition except for the joints and a few pieces which are cracked.
The slate on the outside is over a concrete substrate and the age is uncertain. The slate is in good condition, however the joints are all shot. When we bought the house 3 years ago the slate and joint appeared to be in great condition? What is the fix for the two different situations? Tone, July 10, Reply

R2: Generally, It is hard to say without seeing the installation. I would probably scratch out all the grout and re grout both inside and outside. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist.

R1: Epoxy Grout is best, because it allow expansion and contraction. Tan, Singapore

Q 2200: I am purchasing a new house and have upgraded to granite slab in my kitchen. The Granite has a grain look like wood that flows from left to right. When the fabricator and installer installed the granite, instead of going with the grain at the seam, they went against the grain, which makes it stand out like a sore thumb. They could have made the seem less obvious if they had broke it at the sink where we only have about three inches of granite showing, but they said that this would not work due to the strength of the granite...this seems weird since the granite is on a 3/4 inch plywood. Are they giving me the straight scoop or just trying to get out of fixing the problem? Dave, July 10, Reply

R2: Well, I don't care for seams at the sink for a variety of reasons so I will agree with them on that point. I disagree with their layout and would expect them to remedy the situation so that it flows together. This is what I would recommend always unless you signed an agreement allowing them to turn the stone at the seam. If not and the return piece needed an extra seam to keep the flow smooth, I would do that as well. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Dave: What do you think? That's right, so do I! Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. I do realize that they're not much of a solution to your problem, but there's not much else that I can do for you! ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2199: I’d like to have granite shower pan installed. I’ve heard conflicting information on what is the correct preparation. One contractor says that a wire reinforced water proof mortar should be installed directly on the existing ½ inch plywood substrate. The mortar should be thicker on the outside and progressively become thinner towards the drain making the slope.
Another contractor says that a curb made from plywood should be installed to provide the slope for the pan. A vinyl sheeting is placed on top of this surface and then the wire reinforced mortar installed as described above.
Is either one of these correct? Also, suggestions on making my new granite shower pan non-slippery? Thanks, Steve, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Steve: I much prefer the solution of the second contractor. Very definitely you DO
WANT a vinyl sheeting!
As far as the slippery factor is concerned, the best way to eliminate the problem is to install small tiles (4"x 4" max.) with a 1/8" gap for grouting. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2198: I'm redoing a bathroom in my house and have chosen limestone for the bathroom walls (including tub/shower area) and tumbled travertine on floor and top of vanity.
But ----- I'm in a sea of confusion -which should I use of the apparently dozens of sealer/impregnator available on the market! Your article on "rocking the boat" certainly reflected my state of mind about the confusing world of stone protection products!
I'm ready to begin installation of the tile today (literally!) and would *very much* appreciate your recommendation for pre-installation sealer/impregnator and post installation sealer/impregnator. It would be really helpful to have your recommendation for a cleaner, as well. Regards, Jan, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Jan: If you read my ROCKING THE BOAT COLUMN you also know how I feel about sealers (including my own!). That said, the use of an impregnator / sealer is not recommendable just in relation to the type of stone one's about to install, but also and above all, to the environment in which the given stone is going to be set. Example: granite (true geological granite, that is) needs to be sealed, if you use it to make a kitchen countertop (where a lot of spills will occur), but if you install the same stone on the walls of you studio, the application of a sealer would only help to put the kids of the manufacturer and its distributor through college! I mean, what could you possibly spills on those walls??!
That said, limestone would need to be sealed, when installed in an environment where staining is likely to occur, but a bathroom?? ... Are you going to spill coffee and cooking oil in your bathroom, and let it sit there for several minutes?
It's a proven scientific fact that the more you leave the stone alone -- like Mother Nature intended -- the better it is for it, especially when dealing with limestone, which some time may turn out to be as unpredictable as the weather! Remember, most of the times limestone will turn out to be all right, but I witnessed all too many problems related to limestone to advise the use of it to begin with. What's even more disturbing and should give anybody
pause, is that all those problems, bar none, had no solution, and some of them were stemming from the application of a penetrating sealer (impregnator). So, please, if you still insist on sealing your limestone, do NOT use my sealer. I prefer someone else who doesn't care so much to enjoy the ride!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did, and, without a doubt, they are far more important than the application of a stupid sealer! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2197: We had an island countertop installed in our new home about a year and a half ago. The granite is Calypso Green. As suggested by the installer, we used 409 to clean it. Initially, the surface looked great. As time has gone on, many areas have become dull and not smooth to the touch. This began within a few months of the installation and has worsened. I called the installer and was told it was due to the differences in the stones in the Calypso Green, and that they are different degrees of hardness and don't polish the same. This was reiterated by another dealer. After many calls, the owner came out and said there was nothing wrong with it and left a can of spray polish. This polish produces no noticeable difference that I can see. I have called several other dealers in my area and they all say it needs sealing, but no one provides that service. Is a sealer what's needed? Is this something I can do? I have seen terms like penetrating sealer, and impregnator. Do these require professional polishing afterward? Help! I love this granite, but am very frustrated by its increasingly dull and patchy appearance. Thank you for any help you can give.
Sue, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Sue: "Formula 409", huh ... They might as well have told you to use sand-paper!
That's your culprit right there! In fact, the stone surface deteriorated as you continued using the harsh stuff. Basically your stone -- which just so happens to be a mix-breed, that is the worse type -- has been damaged by the wrong cleaner and now you need the expensive services of a stone refinisher, hoping that in your neck of the woods you can find someone who has a clue on how to deal with your "granite"!
There's no topical sealer that will ever be able to do the first thing about your problem, and impregnator-type sealers -- which are below surface and only deal with the absorbency of the stone, therefore have nothing to do with the surface appearance -- would be just a waste of time and money. Based upon your version of the story, I feel very sorry by realizing what bunch of idiots you've been dealing with all throughout your "stone adventure". Sometimes I'm ashamed to belong to this industry. Stories like your just plain piss me off (excuse my "French", but I just couldn't find a polite expression strong enough to describe the way I feel.)
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good Stone restoration company. That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2196: Working for an architecture agency based in Paris, I 'm looking for the "New York bluestone" and an distributor in the States or, even better, in Europe!
I would like to have some more information about this quite unknown stone! Best regards,
Theresa, July 9, Reply

Q 2195: I read a good deal of your comments on the findstone web site and was impressed at your level of technical knowledge.
I am finishing up a new home (I am the homeowner) that has a lot of "absolute black" floor tile ( the crates said made in China) and will have slab countertops, backsplashes and
fireplace surrounds from the same importer/fabricator.
The installer did a good job installing. There is a haze which will not be cut with water. Which products should I use to clean and maintain my floors and other "granite" surfaces (from reading your comments I realize the stone is likely something like anorthosite). Where can I purchase these products?
Do you do detailing or can you recommend a detailer? I live in NJ.
Can you recommend a place that I can find 18x18 inch flamed granite for a deck. I need approx 1300 Sq ft. I'd like absolute black. I found a source through my installer but it is expensive and would like the chance to shop. I found a place in Trenton that has no abs black but three other varieties of stone that are flamed. Something they call "linen granite, flamed" sounds nice aesthetically speaking. Do you have familiarity with that variety of stone in terms of suitability for outdoor deck/patio type application? I realize your time is valuable. I also have Crema Marfil and "Sally Pink" marble baths. I need help with them as well. Thank you, Sincerely, Scott, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Scott: The Chinese "Black Absolute" is a stone (I don't exactly which one) that all
too many time doesn't polish well. The "haze" that you see may be there to stay. It may just be the "nature of the beast" and no cleaner will ever fix that! I do do detailing, but I honestly don't know if it'll help. I would have to see. Do send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask them to put you in touch directly with me.
The good news is that the slabs your countertops will be made out, have little chance of actually being the same material (in China they have narrow roads, therefore they have small trucks, therefore they can't quarry big blocks, therefore no slabs, only tiles!) There are exceptions, of course (a few Chinese granite do come in slabs, though not too big); so, just in case, you want to make sure that's not the same stuff that you have on the floor, but a more familiar black "granite". By the way, only one black granite is an anorthosite, namely the Cambrian Black. All the rest that I'm familiar with are either gabbro or dolerite. We can discuss all your other issues once we're in direct correspondence. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2194: I am interested in a granite countertop for my kitchen and found your website very useful. Although, I like light colored granite, I am concerned it may get stained. Is the darker granite less absorbent? I like St. Cecilia, Gold Venetian, Verde Lavaras, and Atlantic Blue Granite. Is there a listing of granites that are best for kitchens? Can you recommend a stone dealer on Long Island that is reputable. We are purchasing our kitchen from Home Depot and had planned on purchasing the counter there too. Thank you in advance for your help. Linda, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: Verde Lavras and Atlantic Blue are excellent choices. Santa Cecilia and Gold
Venetian are borderline, in my book. None of them is a granite, of course!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2193: What are the types of granite edges called? July 9, Reply

R1: Dear ???: Edges! By the way, nice name you've got! Ciao

Q 2192: A potted plant sitting on my Juparano Columbo left a brown water stain. What do I use to get this out. The stone has been impregnated once-6 yrs ago. It is in a little used but highly visible area of my kitchen. Please advise asap. Thanks! Debbie, July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Debbie: You have to poultice the stain out using high-potency Hydrogen Peroxide (30 - 40 volume. The one available at your pharmacy won't do it, at only 3.5 volume. Go to your beauty salon and ask for the clear type.) To learn more about poulticing, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask them to get in touch directly with me.
Finally, should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2191: I just closed on my house about 3 months ago. I am very concerned for my stone (limestone, granite and slate). I was advised that sealed granite kitchen countertop (Atlantic Black Granite honed) can be cleaned with soap and water or a glass cleaner without ammonia. My kitchen floor is unsealed Slate (M-1 Ebony Slate).
In my bathroom, I have honed Gasgogne Blue (which only today have I figured out to be a limestone and not a marble) it’s very lovely but we’re having problems with the tile in the shower area. About 2 months ago, we decided that we wanted to seal the bathroom tile. We’ve been trying to seal it and have waited 8 weeks for it to dry. It feels dry when touched but has about 8”-12” on all walls with stains which look like water stain. This mark goes all the way around the shower. We don’t think that there is a leak because it should have showed up in the floor below by now. What do you think is the cause and remedy? Any clues? Anyway, if you could kindly sell me some products and tell me what to do with it, I would be very grateful.
I know that you get annoyed with consumers like me who have to turn to an expert for help, but we are at the mercy of the seller/marble retailer. I bought my house from a developer and their subcontractor seems quite clueless. Where I can buy the products? Thanks. Michelle, Chicago. July 9, Reply

R1: Dear Michelle: One thing at a time. Atlantic Black hone-finished "granite" (actually an Anorthosite, not certainly a granite) can NOT be sealed with an impregnator type sealer. It
would represent a maintenance nightmare, because all sorts of surface soiling will show and you'll become a slave of your tops! To minimize the problem, if the stone has been sealed already (along with the brains of the contractor who did it!) the sealer MUST be stripped with a Methylene Chloride-based paint stripper (anything else won't cut it). After that, a good-quality color enhancer should be applied to minimize the problem (if there's a sealer, the color enhancer won't have any chance to be properly absorbed by the stone the way it should to work). With that your countertop will turn permanently black -- though still dull, and will show less surface soiling. The cleaners the geniuses who sealed your countertops suggested you to use are quite wrong (what a surprise!!). Do NOT use either one of them. There are several postings on this particular subject on this very site.
As far as your kitchen floor is concerned, I have only one comment: I feel deeply sorry for you! You will find out why sooner than you may be afraid of.
Unfortunately there's very little remedy. That stone does not belong on a floor to begin with, let alone a kitchen.
Finally your bathroom limestone. How do you want it, sugar coated or right in between your eyes? I'll make the decision for you:
Time and again I strongly advised people against using limestone in their homes. Most of the times there are no problems, but the few times that problems arise -- like in your case -- they're always terminal (with no discernible solution, that is). In your case, for instance, the problem you're reporting could be caused by a variety of factors, i.e.: 1) an unexpected chemical reaction between the setting material used to set the tiles and the stone makeup (nothing you can do about it). 2) Poor installation technique (the tiles have been butt-jointed, perhaps) and there's grout or caulk missing. And so on. Sorry about that. (Oh, by the way, that was the sugar-coated version!)
Finally, I never get annoyed by requests like yours. I do get annoyed at realizing -- day in and day out -- the hopeless specific ignorance displayed by the vast majority of stone operators.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Unfortunately they won't do you much good at this point. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2190: I am interested in a honed granite countertop for my kitchen. Can you hone
any granite or does it just come in certain colors (I have seen black and green)? Is this as durable as regular granite? How do you pick out a slab since they are usually shiny? Deborah, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Deborah: All "granites" can be hone-finished. Dark color are not advisable because they represent a maintenance nightmare (they show all sorts of surface soiling!). Durability is not an issue; "granite" -- no matter what stone is in reality, is always "regular", regardless of the surface finish. Usually hone-finished granite come finished by the factory. Only seldom the fabricator is going to custom hone a polished slab; it takes a very expensive
piece of equipment that only few fabrication facilities own. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with
your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2189: Please send me your guidelines for cleaning and maintaining marble floors. How do you remove mildew in the shower? Jerry, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Jerry: You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2188: PLEASE SEND US THE DETAILED TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE SLATES FROM NORTH INDIA & SOUTH INDIA. ITS PHYSICAL APPEARANCE & MINERAL COMPOSITION. ARUN, UAE, JULY 8, REPLY

Q 2187: I am looking for some software that can be used to categorize marble.
For example, scan or take a picture of a piece of marble, save as jpeg. Get the software to analyze and categorize it. We have many different shades of red marble and have difficulty sorting it by eye. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you, Dave. July 8, Reply

Q 2186: I need info about FRESH PATTERN. Regards, Yildiray, Turkey, July 8, Reply

Q 2185: We have moved into a home with an interior court yard. The deck in the court yard is slate. How do we properly clean and maintain this slate. Thanks. Hugh, Diamondhead, MS, July 8, Reply

Q 2184: I am building a home and getting UBATUBA granite countertops installed in the kitchen. We have cherry color maple cabinets, black appliances and marble look-alike ceramic tile on the floor. Expo says its possible that some backsplash tiles may break when they rip off the existing countertop and install the granite. They will not replace or fix the tiles either. Should I have the builder NOT install the backsplash and get it done by expo after the countertop is installed? We had earlier chosen ANKARA - ALABASTER but that was before we picked UBA TUBA. What backsplash would look good in my kitchen? Thanks, Satish, July 8, Reply

R2:Hey, I just wanted to let you know I have the same countertop (uba tuba) and dark cabinets. I installed mirrors as a backsplash! They're beautiful, they make the room look huge, and contrary to popular belief, they're easy to keep clean! Mare

R1: Dear Satish: Since when the backsplash is installed before the countertop?! The EXPO guys are right.
You were thinking about Ankara Alabaster? ... You dodged a big bullet, all right!! Uba Tuba is an excellent choice. It doesn't need to be sealed.About your last question, sorry, but I'm no interior decorator.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2183: A slice of lemon was removed from a drink and left lying on a marble table top overnight. The result is a perfect impression of the lemon slice on the marble. Is there anything that can be done to remove it? Am I right in thinking that the acidic lemon juice has etched into the marble? Tony, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Tony: Well, if you don't like the "perfect impression" of the lemon slice, you'll have to get a professional stone refinisher to fix the damage for you. It's not a DIY project.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone restoration company. That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2182: My mom is trying to strip paint from her marble fireplace but it seems to leave a residue of some kind. The paint remover she is using is a marble safe stripper, (so it says on the container) but I am clueless how to get the paint out of the little crevices or how to get the residue off. Any ideas would be very appreciated. Carter, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Carter: If the label of the product says that it's marble-safe, then it must be expensive stuff!! No solvent-based stripper can damage marble. Get a cheap paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride and use a medium bristle brush (natural fiber). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2181: What is curb stone? Can you give me some details? Gajendra, Udaipur, India.
July 8, Reply

Q 2180: How can I clean a very dirty Italian marble floor that is an entryway? Singer, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Singer: With a very clean mop! If it's polish that you want, than you need the services of a professional stone refinisher.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone restoration company. That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2179: The more I read about granite the more complex it appears to be. Never knew there so many stones classified as granite each with own characteristics.
We just purchased a new home in Las Cruces, New Mexico that has granite countertops in the kitchen and master bathroom. The granite is a light color with a variety of colors in it. Not sure what type it is, so that is something I will have to find out.
When you drop water on it leaves a dark color mark on it which when it dries out it vanishes. From what I have read this may indicate that it needs to sealed. I have not conducted the lemon test on it but will do so on some of scrap pieces of granite to see what happens. The house builder has never used granite before and did so in this house since it was going to be a show home. He is not sure if the company who installed the granite sealed it or not. I will check with them next week on this.
Our other questions are the following:
1. There appears to be some random pitting in the granite. Is this natural or is the granite defective?
2. Should the seams between pieces of the granite be almost invisible or is how visible the seams are all a matter of the type of granite and the quality of the installation work involved?
3. There is one blurry spot near where two pieces were seamed together that appears as if some of seam sealant may have spilled and did not get wiped up. What can be used to remove this material?
Any assistance you provide in regard to our questions would be appreciated. Thanks, Len. July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Len: Don't bother with either the lemon juice test, or asking the fabricator if that stone were sealed. It was obviously not, and -- for what you're reporting -- it does need to be sealed real bad. I do mean, REAL BAD!! Due to its excessive absorbency rate you will always have problems, but the application of the right sealer (probably 4 or 5 applications at an interval of 24 hours each) will help minimize them.
The pitting you're describing is a natural occurrence typical of many a "granite".
About the seam, I don't think you diagnosis is right (but it could be). You do not want to tangle with that situation. Have the fabricator come back and do the job right -- whatever has to be done.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2178: I would be grateful for advise on what method I should adopt to get a marble effect on slate, I am aware that the slate has to be painted black to begin with, but after that, what product/method and tools should I use to obtain the best result. Barry, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Barry: I must know something that I don't know! In fact, unlike you, I'm not aware that slate has to be painted black. I actually never heard of such a silly thing! And what about getting "the marble effect"? I really wish I knew what you're talking about!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2177: I live in a two story town home with a fireplace. There is a piece of marble in front of it that is broken and I have obtained another piece to replace it with. However, the piece is too large and will have to be cut to size. How is this to be done? Can I do it myself? What tool or tools would I need? (Its 14/16 inches thick and the piece would need to be 24X36 inches). I would do the work if possible. If not, who could do it for me? Who would I contact? Thank you, Blanche, July 8. Reply

R1: Dear Blanche: Take you piece of stone to a fabrication facility and let the pros do the job! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2176: What type of tiles, stones, or methods could get me that cutting edge. We raised the bar when we started 4 years ago and finally some of our competitors are reaching it. We want to go to the next level. Any ideas? Regards, Steve, USA, July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Steve: What is this, "mind-reading day?" I have not a clue of what you're talking about. I can't even understand what you do for a living! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2175: I have a cultured marble tub that I tried to install a whirlpool kit into. One of the holes that I drilled broke in a ragged, larger diameter than I can cover with the jet. How can I repair this hole? July 8, Reply

R1: Dear Question Mark: Besides the fact that you are anonymous -- which is pretty rude, if you ask me -- this site is about stone, not plastic. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2174: I have just acquired a large piece of Pennsylvania Bluestone that I want to use for a dining room table top. I guess the material is a kind of sandstone, they call it a slate down there. What should I seal it with, so that it will be practical and will not show stains? Thanks Lauren, July 8. Reply

R1: Dear Lauren: If they call it slate they are right on the money. Bluestone is quite a dense
stone and won't take any impregnator/sealer for stone. Even if it did, that would not prevent surface staining. Penna Bluestone is a very durable and enjoyable material, but it shows every type of surface soiling. I would consider the application of a color enhancer. That should minimize the problem.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2173: I want to start business of marble/onyx. I want to create my own designs. I want to see my designs in marble /onyx. I need guidance about this business. I don't know much about the charm in this business. I am from Software Industry. I want to transform my deigns into marble /onyx. July 8. Reply

Q 2172: Several of our tiles have small "crater like" chips, less than 1/4 inch wide and 1/8 inch deep. What do you recommend we do? If you recommend a filler, what product(s) should we consider? Tiles are beautiful 18x18 inches and we want to enjoy them for many years to come. Thanks, Bob, USA, July 8. Reply

R1: Dear Bob: Tiles of what? Ceramic, porcelain, marble, granite? ... We're pretty good at
answering questions, but we need to know at least the basic information about the problem, don't you think? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2171: I have a countertop that is white speckled. I have used bleach to clean it and now it is yellowing. Can you help me to be able to get the yellowing off? Thanks, Libby,
July 8. Reply

R1: Dear Libby: What kind of material is you countertop made of? If you don't even give us that little information, how can you expect us to come up with an intelligent answer? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2170: I need more information about inlay table tops, such as how you make delivery, how much delivery costs, insurance, how they are packaged, installation recommendations, thickness, can they be used on walls and floors? James, July 8, Reply

Q 2169: I have a slate floor that is about 50 years old and am interested in procedures or products that we can use to restore them. They are in fairly good shape but probably have many coats of wax etc. that make them look old. We are planning to refinish the adjacent hardwood floors and thought that sanding the slate might also make sense. Thanks! Jay, July 8. Reply

R1: Dear Jay: No it won't make any sense at all!! Have your slate stripped from any coating of old wax by a professional janitorial company. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2168: Please explain what is Abrasive index of materials and how it is expressed. Sometimes we come across where it is expressed as Abrasive index for Granite-0.55 and some times it is expressed in percentage. Somen, July 6, Reply

Q 2167: We have recently installed black galaxy granite (if it is granite). After reviewing you site I am really confused. Your site is really great I wish I would have found it before we installed the granite. Anyway, we sealed it and I noticed rings left from cranberry juice so I used steel wool to get them out, which it did and now I have a light area where I used the steel wool. Then I decided it was the sealer which left the mark (it looked like it was etched). So I scrubbed the sealer off. But I still don't know if it needs to be sealed or not. I did the lemon juice test and it seemed to pass with flying colors. It also seems that if some kind of juice even wine is left on the counters it doesn't stain (or etch) it but if there is a glass on it, it seems to leave a ring. I don't know if we should put the sealer back on or not. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated, I am going nuts with this. Thank you. Audrey, July 6, Reply

R1: Dear Audrey: I believe I already answered you question. You don't strip a sealer with steel wool. You need a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride. Anything else won't cut it. And, no, Black Galaxy does not want to be sealed. The reason why you have your current problem is due to the fact that it was sealed anyway. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2166: WHEN I STRIP THE PAINT OFF MY MARBLE FIREPLACE WHAT KIND OF POLISH AND BUFFER DO I USE TO BRING BACK THE SHINE TO THE MARBLE? July 6, McInton, Ireland, Reply

R1: You will not get that newly polished look back without a massive upheaval (taking out and using workshop machinery on it ) and massive cost - dependant on where you are.
The only solution I can give you is to compromise - the paint is gone- why not go for a honed or sanded look as you could get this using abrasives ( papers block wire or such like - or you could use acid which will make it rougher ( be careful and use gloves and goggles and wash off quickly), Peter, USA.

Q 2165: I am trying to get some information on the what type of finish and type of bonding are used when installing the different natural stones. I am in the interior design field working on a degree in interior design. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely, Lynne, July 6, Reply

R1: Dear Lynne: I'd love to help you, but you need to elaborate your questions a little
further. I.e: What do you mean with "what type of finish"? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2164: I have some commercial Travertine Stone floors in the building I manage. The stone is in the elevator hallways. It is dirty and does not shine well. What can I clean this with to restore the luster? Is the waxes that can be used to shine the stones. Can we high speed burnish or buff the floors? Need any recommendations that you can provide to cleans and daily/weekly maintain the floor. Jack, July 6, Reply

R1: Dear Jack: What you need to restore the original luster of your travertine floor is a
specific floor machine, with the right grinding elements and, finally the right polishing pad and powder or compound. The whole thing comes attached to a proven professional stone refinisher! After the floor has been restored you can then implement sound procedures for its maintenance.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone refinisher, and also the one about the maintenance of high traffic polished stone floors. That should help you with your decision. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Q 2163: I am installing slate outdoors as a walkway to my home. I would like to know what type of grouting can I use in between the stones. Can I use Cement? Gio, July 5, Reply

R1: Sanded Grout or epoxy grout. Tan, Singapore.

A 2162: We are interested in the Santa Cecelia granite. We have seen a sample which appears to have a lot of purple dots that look like cigarette burns throughout the granite. These dots seem softer than the rest of the granite and are both porous and rough. Is this a common characteristic of this granite? Claudia, July 5, Reply

R1: Dear Claudia: Yes, it's the "nature of the beast" Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2161: I have over 100 acres of quarry rock & field stone. I need to know the best ways to market it. Janet, July 5, Reply

A 2160: I am civil engineer from Makrana, Rajasthan, India. In my city marble is quarried and processed but we are suffering from slurry problem. Are there any projects based on marble slurry? Help me in this field. Thanks, Vishal. July 5, Reply

A 2159: I had Baltic Brown granite installed in my kitchen. I love the look, however, I have some concerns. First of all, one slab has many wheel marks---29 in all. These marks are different sizes of what looks like a 9" circular mark. Only one is almost a complete circle. These marks can not be seen during the sunny part of the day, however, cloudy times or when the sun is going up or down or when it is dark----you can really see these marks! The owner of the granite company has been to my house and told me the marks were from a 9" polishing head that is used on the big machines in Italy. He tried to make me believe that it is very common and that if the industry did not accept these marks, granite would not be as affordable as it is. I told him that my other three slabs do not have one circular mark and that I can not believe that this is as common as he is stating. He was unable to find one mark on the others, however, he said that if he replaced this one slab chances are that it too would have these wheel marks. He also said that industry standards allows for these wheel marks. Is he correct---or is he feeding me a bunch of garbage?
Another concern I have, his installers cut the holes for my faucet without protecting my $500 cast iron sink. They then dry wiped some of the granite dust out. We did not touch it and a week later a second person came to check the work and he cleaned it out with something very strong smelling. After almost 1/2 hour of rubbing very hard and polishing my sink he was finished and the sink looked great. Now his magic shine has worn off and I am finding very small scratches in my sink. Can the granite dust cause this? Is it industry standard to not protect a $500 sink from the mess caused by drilling faucet holes?
These wonderful installers also chipped a 1" chunk of granite off the end of my back splash---right on the end next to the window for all to see. They filled it with a black epoxy that obviously didn't match the shine of the granite. The owner of the company also said that this met industry standard, however, he would replace it. Something tells me that this is not industry standard.
My last issue is a gap between the bottom of the backsplash and the countertop. One 30" section of the backsplash does not sit flush with the countertop. It has been filled with caulking 2 times and according to the owner----it needs it again. He isn't sure what caused it, however, it might be their saw that did it and that it really wasn't a big deal. Shouldn't the backsplash be flush with the countertop? Is there an industry standard on gap size? Also, where does one go to find these "industry standards"? Thank you, Susan, July 4, Reply

R1: Dear Susan: Inasmuch at times I feel like an idiot Don Quixote by denouncing the bare
truth, the fact that so called "Industry standards" are conspicuously nonexistent keeps haunting the industry back. The result -- based upon your side of the story -- is the presence of "Michelangelos" on the loose like the guy you've been dealing with. Of course, you don't have to accept a slab with grinding marks. (Besides, Baltic Brown doesn't even come from Italy.) You don't have to accept a "repair" like the one performed with epoxy, either; as well as you don't have to accept any gap whatever between the backsplash and
the countertop surface. And if the guy insists at saying that "everything is within industry standards" you tell him flat out to his face to either show you such "industry standards" in writing, or to shut the heck up and do the job the way common sense suggests.
And, by the way, when everything is done to your satisfaction, do NOT allow the guy to seal your stone (I have the funny feeling that he honestly believes that Baltic Brown is a granite -- after all, the invoice of the dealer says so, and there is where he gets his "stone education" from! -- and he's probably been brainwashed by the salesmen-run industry into sealing everything in sight that doesn't move, including his own brains!). You do NOT
want that.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; I highly doubt you'll ever get anything like that from your "Professional fabricator" (By the way, feel free to print this out and show it to him. Who knows, maybe, just maybe, there's a remote chance that a "shock treatment" may just do him some good!) Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2158: Email me relevant information on cleaning and polishing a rock and mortar fireplace hearth that is in desperate need of a cleaning and a polish. Thank you! Debra, July 4, Reply

A 2157: Blue Granite is the state stone of South Carolina. I was wondering if it can be used for countertops? If yes, then how do I find a source? Dobrenen, July 4, Reply

R1: Dear Dobrenen: One learns something new every day!
Of course, I never heard about that particular stone; therefore I have no answer to either one of your questions. You can get help about the first one of them, however, by going toward the end of this page's left side bar and clicking on the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Once there, look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2156: Please tell me if I can re-apply new grout to good existing grout where too much was removed during the sponging off process. This grout is in good condition & has cured for several months. The grout has not been sealed yet. We were hoping not to have to remove the existing grout. I am in Washington, North Carolina. Thank you, Roxanne, July 3, Reply

R1: Dear Roxanne: You can try in a small area. It usually won't work though. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA.

A 2155: We have recently installed Black Galaxy granite on our counter tops and I was
wondering if they should be sealed or not. Your web site is great I was there for a long time. It really is a wealth of information. Thank you for any help you can give me about this kind of granite. Audrey, July 3, Reply

R1: Dear Audrey: I believe that you want to read the answer I gave to the posting 2134 below, dated June 28. That will answer your question, all right!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2154: Email me relevant information on the so called Los Angeles test for rock- specification and selection. Understand it is a way to test quality. Please provide me expert info, Thanks. Porat. July 3, Reply

A 2153: I'm thinking of buying a Marble Fountain (chinese marble) and I live in Montreal, Canada. Will the very cold winters (below zero degrees Celsius) damage the fountain? Thank you, Burge, July 2, Reply

R1: Dear Burge: It shouldn't. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2152: I want to seal recently installed natural limestone blocks that are the exterior of my home. Wind driven rain managed to soak through onto one floor area and I wonder if you could advise which products you recommend? I am in Lampasas, TX. Thank-you! Al, July 2, Reply

R1: Al: I have been putting limestone veneers on homes in central Texas for 30 years now, and have never seen or heard of driving rain penetrating the stone. Also, to the best of my knowledge, none of these stone veneers where ever sealed. I am assuming that you have a standard 5 inch veneer wall? What type of limestone is it? (chopped, flagging?) Most often, the water penetration you describe is do to faulty sealing around windows or doors, or it could be due to improperly installed flashing.
I am not far from Lampasas, and would be glad to take a look at your problem (at no charge), and point you in the right direction. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2151: Can Brazilian slate withstand the cold and snow in the north? Will it peel or crack in extremes of weather. I want to have a table made from Brazilian slate and do not know if it will peel from cold weather? Thank you, Eileen, July 2, Reply

R1: Dear Eileen: You don't know and neither do I! What I do know is that I would never choose slate -- Brazilian or what-have-you -- for a table top if I ever intended to use it!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2150: I recently bought a 60 year old house that has a beautiful 400 sq. ft. marble patio. The marble is in 12 inch squares, each which are 1 inch thick. Over time the patio has stained. I would like to clean it, then seal it to retard further stains. My questions are: 1) is this a project that a reasonably sophisticated do-it-yourselfer can accomplish? 2) What process and products would I use to do it? 3) Assuming you do not recommend doing it myself, what should I look for in a contractor do determine if he knows what he is talking about? I am in Portland, OR. Thanks! Rob, July 2, Reply

R1: Dear Rob: The answer to your first question is: NO CAN DO!! Just forget it. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone restoration/refinishing company. That should help you with your decision. Further more, I just so happen to know of a terrific little restoration company (man and wife team ... The best combination!!) right in your neck of the woods. If you're interested, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your own question) and ask them to put you in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to assist you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Thanks for your response to my question #2150, about my 400sf marble patio. From your response it appears I was right to investigate before I took the word of the various local people I called who told me about various cleaning and sealing products. I read your article.
I want to clarify a couple things: 1) the finish on my patio is not "polished". I'm not sure if it ever was, but I would hesitate to have slick finish on an outdoor floor, especially in Oregon! 2) The stains on the patio are mostly dirt. I have power washed it a couple times over the last 7 years, and the dirt does come out with water. The problem is the finish is porous, so it gets stained again. 3) The "honing" process you describe would seem to result in a slick
polished finish. I don't think I want that, for safety reasons. But is that the only way to get the stains out and keep the surface from being prone to staining again? The fact that I can get it pretty clean with power washing (or with scrubbing - I've done some hands and knees work on it too) would seem to indicate that perhaps I can get it clean short of honing it to a polish. But that does not prevent re-staining.
I was steered to a product called by an outfit called Stone Tech, which makes "Klenz-All" and "Impregnator Pro". I went to the web site and read all the stuff. Sounded exactly what I had in mind in my naiveté - clean it and then seal it.
Do you know this product? Is it another snake oil in a bottle? You mentioned you know of a husband/wife team who restores marble in my area. Could you forward their contact details to me? Thanks very much for your advice. Rob

A 2149: Help! We purchased beautiful sandstone carved panels in Bali recently and have just received the shipment. Now how do we install them? We would love to have them installed so that when we move in the future we can take them with us. There are 8 panels measuring about 3 feet by 5 feet when assembled altogether. The stone is very crumbly and seems extremely fragile. Do you have any ideas on installation to preserve and enjoy these beautiful panels in our dining room. Thanks so much for any suggestions and mounting them, grouting and supporting them on sheet rocked interior walls. Mak, July 2, Reply

R1: Dear Mak: Since I'm not familiar with that particular sandstone coming from Bali, I will not even venture any suggestion. Under the circumstances the only piece of advice I can give you is to get hold of a proven professional. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2148: I am buying classic marble column (solid marble, 10" x 8) and a number of vendors came to me with different price. How can I decide? Is there a regulation in this market? Does vendor need to have a permit, or something similar in the US? How can determine its quality? What are criterions to determine the quality of columns, what are the most important factors I have to consider? Can I buy such columns from foreign vendors from India or China? Do I really need to CEMENT? People say there is "Proprietary epoxy-resin glue" from Japan that can do the job. But I can not find it in the US/Canada market. What are the BRAND names? and which is the best? (I just want to glue marble or granite in a more effective way) Warren, July 2, Reply

A 2147: I'm looking to buy some marble care products for 1) removing stains like vinegar and 2) general cleaning. Also looking into how I can whiten my grouting lines --- it is so dark now that I can see rectangular marble slabs now! Thanks. Winston, July 1, Reply

R1: Dear Winston: Vinegar does not stains, it corrodes (etches) the marble surface. Those "stains" are actually surface damages. The "remove" them you have to implement a full fledged restoration procedure. Don't get scared, though! ... If they are light to medium etches (which is typically the case with vinegar) you can repair the damage by using a polishing compound for marble designed for DIYers. Also, read my answer to the 2146 posting right below yours. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2146: I left a container of jewelry polish on my cream marble over night in the bathroom and there was a crack in the bottom of the bottle. It leaked onto the marble and now I have what looks like a coffee cup ring/stain on the counter. Any suggestions how I can get rid of this stain? Clark, July 1. Reply

R1: Dear Clark: My first reaction would be to suggest you use a polishing compound for marble suitable for DIYers (I have one), but I doubt highly that it would work in your case. The fact that your jar was cracked (therefore it continued leaking), and has been sitting on your marble overnight, tells me that you're facing quite a severe etching (I bet you can slightly feel the "ring" under your fingertips). Your best bet is to hire a professional stone refinisher: They will have to hone the damage before re-polishing the stone surface. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Maurizio, I was reading through some of the Q&A polishing forum this morning and was both amused and heartened by your responses to people seeking an 'easy' solution to their polishing problems. As a professional gem-cutter, I share your sense of frustration with the faulty perceptions entertained by many people regarding the art of stone finishing. I am often asked by PROFESSIONAL JEWELERS to "buff" out chips and percussion fractures from FACETED stones and, of course, to do it very, very cheaply.
The concept of sequential lapping etc. is quite foreign to professionals and lay-persons alike. Over the years I have become less and less diplomatic with those who ask the impossible. Your forthright cut-to-the chase answers are just what are needed to dispel the many 'quick-fix' myths out there. Keep up the good work. You are providing a MUCH needed breath of fresh air to a subject hitherto cloaked in mystery. Will

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