Advice wanted - marble, granite, slate, sandstone, limestone, stains, care, repair- www.findstone.com

A 2144: Can you give me some information about Zodiaq, its pro and cons? Maria, June 30, Reply.

R1: Dear Maria: "Zodiaq" is a so-called engineered stone. It's manmade by mixing quartz crystals (94%, I believe to remember) with epoxy resin (the reminder 6%). If you like the way it looks, there are not many cons I can think of. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2143: I was just wondering if you have a list of commercial stone names that have satisfied this lemon juice test. Jvohl, June 30, Reply

R1: Dear Jvohl: Too long a list, sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2142: I have frequently read that light colored granites, primarily because they are less dense than dark colored granites, are either unsuitable as countertops or at best much more difficult to maintain. My questions are: does this generality vary much among the different types of light colored granite or more from slab to slab w/in the different colors? Also, besides the lemon juice test is there a way to check for porosity there at the slab yard? Last, is there a reliable place to check for average abrasion resistance rates for a specific color (for example Colonial Dream White/Blanco) or is that, like porosity, a slab by slab variation. Thank you, Mary, June 30, Reply

R1: Dear Mary: True geological granite is either white, or light gray (the Italian Bianco Sardo -- a.k.a. "Luna Pearl", or Grigio Sardo), or pinkish (The Spanish Rosa Porrino). There are a few domestic ones, out of New England, still in the whitish and light gray hue. Its porosity is medium (twice as much as the average marble) and it can be easily kept under control with a good-quality impregnator sealer. Many other light colored "granites" are in fact quite absorbent and not suitable -- at least in my book -- in a kitchen environment.
To find out if a "granite" is very porous at the yard, walk through it holding a cup of water in your hands. When you see a stone that grabs you, go there and rub some of the water on its surface. If you see that it gets dark right away ... away you go!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2141: I have a slate water fountain - which has turned colors during my move - I love the relaxing sound but currently hate the discoloration - not sure if you can assist me in learning how to clean it - I have search through the various site to purchase fountains in the hopes that one of them would have a section on how to care for your fountain, but as of yet have been unsuccessful in my search - if you could point me in the right direction or give me some pointers I would be greatful. Christina, June 30, Reply

A 2140: I am a landscape architect and I have designed a pool terrace paved w/ concrete pavers. The pavers are installed and the client would like to have a bull nose for the pool coping (the tile is 7/8" thick). What kind of router bit should he purchase? Thanks, Erez. June 30, Reply

R1: A diamond router bit, quarter round, radius = 3/8", Miguel, USA.

A 2139: Was wondering if you also accommodate opportunity for positions in the Dimensional Stone Trade. I am a Quarry Master with 17 Years and several Quarry Sites in Canada. Curd, June 29, Reply

A 2138: Could you please send us some details (chemical properties) and more about:
1. Morwar marble
2. Vikas marble
3. Pista marble
We are also having different type of quartz stone and we want to expand it all over. Shariq, India, June 29, Reply

A 2137: To know in sequence which is the most recommended five (5) types of granite or marble for flooring of residential apartment? I like also to know the local price in L.E. of each type (supply and install), Wael, June 29. Reply

R1: Dear Wael: What you ask for does not exist. "Granite" is sturdier than marble and easier to maintain (providing that you choose the right one!) Marble is generally considered more beautiful (although, of course, beauty is in the eyes of the beholders!) and a lot of people are happy with it. It much depends in which rooms of your apartment you intend to install the stone, the intensity of traffic they will be subject to, and how good a care you'll be taking of it.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2136: I have a black slate fire surround that was painted with several coats of white emulsion I have stripped these off but am left with patchy areas of what appears to be underlying black gloss which I cannot remove with paint stripper. The surround is huge and I really do not know what to try next with it without damaging the slate. Any suggestions to help me return the surround to it's original splendor would be welcome. Dawne, June 29, Reply.

A 2135: I have been in the Floor covering trade for more than 30 years now, having close contacts with the main Architects / Designers / Hoteliers / Specifiers in India. I intend branching out into the natural Stone trade, for which I know a substantial demand exists. I would be thankful if you could furnish me with some basic start-up knowledge / info as to what all is involved in the natural Stone / Slate line and all that I need to know about this. Many thanks, Puneet, June 29. Reply

A 2134: We recently installed a black galaxy counter top in our kitchen. It was sealed and I have noticed the cranberry juice stains it. Is there anything we can do to get the stains out? Thank you. Audrey, June 28, Reply

R1: Dear Audrey: Here we go again! Yet another "professional" that seals a stone that doesn't need to be sealed!! The cranberry juice (which is acidic) did not stain your gabbro (that what Black Galaxy is and that's why it doesn't need to be sealed), it rather etched the stupid sealer that had no business being there to begin with. Have the "Michelangelo" who applied the sealer remove it (they will have to use a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride. Anything else won't cut it). Once they're finished kick them out of your house, and live happily thereafter!! I have Black Galaxy in my own kitchen for over 6 years already, and both my wife and I love to cook a lot. Believe you me, because of the way we use and abuse that stone every day of the week and twice on Sunday, it's taking a beating all right! Never sealed, of course. Still brand new!!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you won't be getting them from your "Michelangelo", that's for sure! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Thank you so much for your answer. I wish I would have found your web site before purchasing it. I really like it a lot though and now I know I won't have to deal with the etching forever. Thanks again for the great information. Audrey, July 8.

A 2133: I have stone available for quarrying, but don't know how to contact a quarrying company. Help! Max, June 28, Reply

A 2132: I have some lilac mist slate it looked fine when purchased but after sealing it little greenish spots appeared it looks like its coming from within the stone... What could this be and how can I fix it? Tbear, June 28, Reply

R1: If you think you have something developing, wash the stone with 1 part to 5 part muratic acid. Rub with a bristle brush and rinse thoroughly. Follow all safety instructions for use. It will require resealing when it is complete. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2131: I have chosen a granite that the local supplier identifies as Verde Butterfly Canadian -- it doesn't have the white like "Verde Butterfly" - it has more yellow, plus there are some red stone chunks that look like garnet.
It's a beautiful stone, but they may not have enough slab to do my entire kitchen and they probably will not be able to obtain more stone. The island is huge and I would prefer slab for that, and would be willing to compromise on back counters.
So, my questions are:
Do you have any suggestions for a complementary surface if they can only do the island with the slab?
Do you have any suggestions on obtaining more of this stone, or how I could find out if anyone out there has tiles of the same stone (I would be willing to use granite tiles on the back countertops)?
I'm located in Boise, ID if you have any suggestions that would help me out, they would be greatly appreciated. Killee, June 28. Reply

A 2130: How can I clean our white marble Chinese lions who have been guarding our front door and have become stained very badly with plant debris. I appreciate they will never return to their snowy white state but they look very sad at the moment and in dire need of tender loving care. Sue, June 27, Reply

R1: Dear Sue: Try to clean it with acetone first (available at any hardware store) to remove any possible resinous residue from the plants, then if it's still stained, brush is lightly with a solution of water and household bleach (and don't forget the elbow grease!! In this case it has to come in the form of repetition, not pressure). Neither one of the two chemicals will effect the marble and its natural patina. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2129: Dear Granite Experts, Help, we are looking at granite countertops for new kitchen construction. I love "Golden Leaf", Tropic Brown & Baltic Brown. Any of these will look wonderful with our cabinetry. Which of these granites would be the best choice and where are they from? Please compare in terms of porosity & need for sealer. Any information would be quite helpful here in Southeast Tennessee. Thanks, I love the information on this website. Rhonda, June 27, Reply

R1: Dear Rhonda: Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2128: We recently had 1/2" Silver Sea Green granite tile installed on a new countertop; the workmanship is impeccable! But when you look across the surface, with window lighting beyond, about 25% of the tiles have what looks like dull surface smudges (not scratches) in various places. The areas on affected tiles are anywhere from 1/2" x 4" to 3" x 8", with more or less separate "smudges" within these areas. Looking straight down on the tile, there is no discoloration. If you run your finger very lightly over these spots, they seem slightly smoother/slicker than the adjacent non-blemished areas. The condition existed from the day it was installed; we haven't yet sealed the granite, pending resolution of this problem (the installer recommends solvent-based Miracle 511 Impregnator). Also, the installer doesn't know what the problem is.
Thinking it might be oil or grease from the cutting process (they were 8" x 20" tiles cut down to 8" x 8" tiles), I tried the following solvents/cleaners:
-Tile Lab Heavy Duty Cleaner (contains: glycol ether & monoethanolamine).
-Tile Lab Stain Remover Paste ( " : alkili silicate, MEA, sodium bisulfate).
-Miracle Tile & Stone Cleaner (contents unknown).
-Phosphoric acid (puddled, not poultice style).
-Muriatic acid (puddled, not poultice style).
-Acetone (puddled, not poultice style).
-Paint thinner (puddled, not poultice style).
-Bon Ami (non-abrasive) scouring powder.
Nothing had any effect on the "marks".
A stone polisher looked at it & thought that "dirt" got between the original tiles in shipping from the factory, and vibration slightly roughened these areas. The fact that the marks seem smoother than the surrounding areas says "no" to that theory, but the fact that the "marks" are duller than surrounding areas says maybe? He was reluctant to try polishing for fear of causing bigger problems; but he did suggest that I could try something called Potea Gris; haven't done that yet. Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks. Hugh, USA, June 27. Reply

R1: Dear Hugh: You've got quite a mystery in your hands, all right! Quite a riddle, let me tell you.
Your smudges are duller than the unscathed areas, but smoother ... It makes no sense. The database I have in between my ears is flagging at: "Epoxy residue", but it still makes no sense, considering that are brand-new tiles. On the other hand, being that I'm not familiar with that particular "granite", I can't even begin to guess whether it could be a natural characteristic of that stone. Yes, you're right, the diagnosis of the stone refinisher you've consulted with is ridiculous (to say the least), but what can you expect from somebody who won't even try polishing it because is afraid to create more damage??!!
Since you already tried everything under the sun but a paint stripper (not thinner) based on Methylene Chloride, I'd give it a shot (follow the directions and precautionary warnings and recommendation printed on the product's can). If that won't work ... Well I quite don't know what else to tell you.
As far as the sealing thing is concerned (assuming that you'll be successful at removing the "mysterious" stains, or decide to keep your "granite" anyway), I wouldn't rush into it before finding out if your stone need any sealing at all to begin with. You don't want to add insult to the injury, do you!
Wait a minute! ... The epoxy residue thing keeps flagging inside my skull ... Maybe, just maybe that stone had been processed in Italy and has been "resined". If that's the case -- again just maybe -- it could be that there's a thin residue of resin on the top of the tiles (smoother and duller). Methylene Chloride should take care of that. Apply more than once if necessary. And, PLEASE, KEEP ME POSTED. I believe I deserve it!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

Thanks for your considered and detailed reply to my A2128 June inquiry. I tried your "nagging thought" suggestion of a paint stripper, and used methylene chloride-based Jasco Premium Stripper. I tried 4 passes on a blemished granite scrap, and 2 passes on an actual countertop blemish. I greatly regret to say none of these trials had any effect whatsoever. So, now I think the only untried approach is polishing. I'm an engineer and mechanically handy; do you think there's any way I could try a small spot-polishing of a scrap or countertop blemish to see if it has any effect (before I call in the "pros" for the whole job)? By the way, in your reply you intimated that what I have might not be granite. For however it might affect your thoughts on the problem, I believe it is, in fact, granite. It looks like it, has obvious slicing-saw marks on the back side, and as the installer said, it's the hardest granite he'd ever seen. Thanks for your help. Hugh. July 11.

You gave me a thorough reply (A2128) to my request about eliminating surface dull spots from my newly-installed Silver Sea Green countertop granite tile. Your last suggestion of methlene chloride stripper didn't work, as did none of my previous solvents, etc. So, now I think the only untried approach is polishing. I'm an engineer and mechanically handy; is there any way I could try a small spot-polishing of a scrap or countertop blemish to see if it has any effect (before I call in the "pros" for the whole job)? In your reply you intimated that what I have might not be granite. For however it might affect your thoughts on the problem, I believe it is granite; it looks like it, has obvious slicing-saw marks on the back side, and as the installer said, it's the hardest granite he'd ever seen. Thanks again for your help. Hugh.July 24

A 2127: I am ( or was) just about to order Blue Pearl for my kitchen counters. After reading all the information on your site, I can't tell if getting granite is a good idea or not. (Or whether Blue Pearl is really granite. Does anyone have anything positive to say about the use of granite for countertops? My other choice is Corian but I'm not thrilled by a synthetic either. Help!!!! Lenore, July 27, Reply

R1: Dear Lenore: GO FOR IT!! Blue Pearl -- an Anorthosite from Norway -- is a stone that for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop is much better than geological granite, not to mention its unmatchable beauty. It's actually one of the best material available for the purpose: quite dense and needs no sealing. Not
now, not ever. Just enjoy it!!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2126: I have just installed marble flooring in my new house. However a great deal of acid has fallen on it and a large area has become etched quite deeply. What do I do? the area has become very fragile. I am not sure I can get a replacement piece to match the colour on the rest of the floor. HELP!!!!! Sonia, UK, June 26, Reply

R2: If the acid did indeed make the tile completely fragile then replacement is the only remedy. Do call a stone refinishing expert for an on site inspection. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Sonia: Before you make any further decision, get hold of a good professional stone refinisher. If they're worth their salt, they will take care of your problem. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone refinisher. That should help you with your decision.
Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2125: We recently imported some kitchen marbletops for a mobile island kitchen. The pieces sits on wood furniture carts which can be rolled around. I noticed that there were opaque straight lines running up/down and left/right on the the white marbletop. It feels like some machine did a bad job of honing the marble. Some lines can be felt if you run your finger across them. On some of the marble tops there are abrasions which can be seen/felt. A fine marble dust covers the pieces.
Also the top does not have any kind of shine or reflection on it. Does not look if any sealer was applies on the surface which I think is necessary for a kitchen marble island.
Please advice how this problem can be corrected in-house or will I have to seek professional help. Our furniture line is "rustic" so a fine finish is not mandatory. Thanks for your help. June 26, Reply

R2: It was not finished completely. The finishing process should be done by a professional. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: I know exactly what your problem is and how to take care of it in an easy way that anybody can do. Too bad I don't deal with anonymous. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2124: We ordered Jasberg and got Rustenburg. The company uses the names Rustenburg and Jasberg for the same range of products, though on findstone these are
listed as different products: Jasberg is dark, almost black and Rustenburg is rather grey. Please clarify the difference. Luc, June 26, Reply

A 2123: I am looking for a way to clean and then keep looking fresh my granite countertops. The granite is Tropical Brown, installed about two years ago. I would like to be able to use a cleaner to remove some "rings" and then a polish and a day to day 'wipe up' application. Emory, June 26. Reply

R1: Dear Emory: Some "rings"? "Granite" is not supposed to get "rings", unless it's a "half-breed" stone (with a certain percentage of calcite in it, that is. Quite a rare, yet possible case), or if, say, a bottle of rust remover based on hydrofluoric acid has been sitting on it. In such two instances, you'd be looking at an actual surface damage, not a stain; therefore you would need the services of a proven stone refinisher that can handle granite (a rare commodity, indeed!)
But ... it could also be that your "granite" is one of those stones that don't need to be sealed and was sealed anyway. To find out if that's (hopefully) the case, you'll have to try stripping the sealer with a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it. Make sure to follow the directions and precautionary measures and warnings printed on the product's can.) If you see that it will take care of your "rings" -- namely etch marks on the sealer that had no business being there -- then you're in good shape. Strip the sealer from all over the counter, implement sound and easy maintenance procedure and live happily thereafter.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2122: We have a problem with staining from soap and toothpaste spatter on a Pietra Serena (light grey) Limestone slab countertop in a Master Bathroom. The stone has a honed finish. We've tried the sealant that was recommended to us through the stone fabricator, but it still stains. The limestone is so porous, that it is so susceptible to stains, and the homogenous nature and color of stone makes the stains more pronounced. What can you recommend? Thanks. Jeni, June 26. Reply

R1: Dear Jeni: Your "stains" ain't stains. They are acid etches instead; therefore, you can keep sealing your top with an impregnator/sealer until you drop, but you will never be able to prevent them. Now, to repair your surface damage (that's what acid etching is) you need a professional stone refinisher.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2121: We had a contractor install a 50-sq.ft. bar and countertop. The Absolute Black (3-cm) was to be satin finish (to minimize surface dirt on counter top). The fabricator assured us that he could install this satin finish, etc. When he installed it, it looked fairly good after he rubbed it with acetone and then applied Desmolit Shestone.
A few hours later, it rained, and spots developed all over the top surface. He came back, cleaned it again with acetone, and applied 511 Impregnator Penetrating Sealer for Granite (from Miracle Sealants Co.,).
The spots remained, so he used a small (about 5") buffer with some white liquid (not water) to buff the entire top. Result, every pass left a streak.--which did not go away with sealing.
The contractor has billed us $5,400 for this (49 square-foot) counter (with only one small sink cut-out), and we will not accept the 'wavy lines' across the entire top surfaces.
The contractor sent a refinisher out to look at the job, and he's not even sure the top is really granite. He noted that the bottom surface did not appear to be cut by a chain, etc., and saw, perhaps, no mica, etc., which usually be in genuine Absolute Black granite.
Do you think we should simply have another fabricator install a standard polished Absolute Black top--or do you think this surface can be saved (either in satin or glossy finish)? Bill, June 26, Reply

R1: Dear Bill: Of course, I can't comment on what the stone refinisher told you, but black
granite does not exist (no matter what the invoice of the distributor says). It's either gabbro, or dolerite, or anorthosite. Each and every one of these stones are better -- from a mechanical point of view -- than true geological granite.
That said, the idea that a satin finish would show less soiling over its polished counterpart is totally wrong. In fact, it's absolutely the opposite. This forum is literally soaked with the tears of end users that bought into the idea of hone-finished black "granite". It is, in fact, a maintenance nightmare!
For what you're reporting to us, I must conclude that your fabricator knows about stone just as much as I know about ancient Chinese literature! I never even heard of this "Desmolite Shestone" thing and, honestly, I don't care to know about it, either! Sure enough it appears as being the culprit. The acidity of the rain etched the stuff, and to eliminate the "stains" (which stains are not), what does your fabricator do? Uses acetone (which won't do squat), then, to top it all, uses an impregnator sealer for stone, which has no business whatsoever being applied on black "granite" (there are a lot of horror stories about this particular issue in this forum, too!) I really don't know what the heck he did when he came back and used a right-angle buffer on your poor stone, but it doesn't seem like it was the right thing to do, of course!
Leave the fabricator alone (in order not to create any additional mess) and strip the heck out your countertop by using a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it. Read the directions and precautionary measures and warnings on the product's can). After that, when everything will come out being nice and uniform, apply a color enhancer over your stone surface. This will turn your top permanently black, which will minimize the visual effects of surface staining (the nightmare of hone-finished black "granite".)
Out of pity, I'd like also to suggest that you print out my answer and have your "Michelangelo" fabricator read it. Who knows, he may just appreciate the education!
Finally, should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2120: I live in Arkansas. I have been in the countertop business for 30 + years. I am in the process of enlarging my business and have become interested in granite tops. Do you know of any books or videos I can get on fabricating granite? I am especially interested in tailgate fabrication with a minimum of tools. Paul, June 26, Reply

A 2119: Dear ones: My teenager was dying her hair red and the dye dripped onto a white marble floor in the neighbor's bathroom! Is there any thing that we can use to remove the dye from the marble? Reply quickly please! She has tried to wipe it off with water, but it doesn't take away the red droplets! Thanks. Gail, June 26, Reply

R1: Dear Gail: Hurry, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your own question) and ask them to put you in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to E-mail you our guidelines for stain removal. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2118: I'm looking to buy some marble care products for 1) removing stains like vinegar and 2) general cleaning. Also looking into how I can whiten my grouting lines --- it is so dark now that I can see rectangular marble slabs now! Thanks. Winston, June 26, Reply

R1: Dear Winston: 1) You can't remove a scratch with a cleaning product or a poultice, can you? Then, by the same token, you can't remove vinegar "stains". They do look like stains but are, in fact, a surface damage, namely acid etches (sort of a wide, shallow chemical scratch). You can repair the damage, however. Send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask them to put you in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to assist you.
2) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2117: What is the difference between bluestone and fieldstone and/or flagstone? Phyllis, June 26. Reply

A 2116: Slate seems to be a tiny market here in Northern California therefore knowledge about it is scarce complicated by the fact that "Slate" is a generic term used to describe any shale type stone. Ever since American-Olean went out of business I have not been able to find professional support for Northeastern gauged slate. The quarries we buy it from sell it.....period.
Consequently, something goes wrong with every job. We continue to use slate because it works really well with our radiantly heated designs. My current black slate floor installation went very well but a few months later the clients cleaning people were able to turn it gray with white spots with whatever method they used to "clean" it. Do you have cleaning products and procedures for slate? At the core of the cleaning problem I believe is the alkaline nature of the water and the soil in this part of the country (northern California). Thanks, Mark, June 26, Reply

R1: Dear Mark: I'm glad to hear the good news: "Slate seems to be a TINY MARKET here in Northern California" Thank goodness, I add! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Whatever is good for marble, is good for slate, too. But do you know what really baffles me? It appears that you've been installing slate for quite a while, but never bothered -- at least until now -- to find out what kind of advice to give to your all too important customers about its proper maintenance. And now you blame the cleaning people! ... Are they supposed to be the ones who have to know about natural stone and its requirements? As far as a solution to the problem you're reporting, there's none. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2115: I have a smooth surface sandstone fireplace that is very discolored and dirty. How do I clean it? Also - is there a way to clean it uniformly without streaks? It's not horribly dirty - just mostly age dirt - but some creosote around the hearth opening. Cathy, June 26, Reply

A 2114: My 2 1/2 year old double sink countertop is a slab of green slate. Unfortunately, quite a few white stains have begun to appear and rapidly spread around where the faucets connect to the slate. What is the best thing to use to remove these stains? Thanks! Dana, June 26, Reply

R1: Dear Dana: Nothing, really. If it's an accumulation of mineral deposits, you could not use any such product like "Lime-away" or the likes, because it would damage your slate permanently. Slate is not the right stone for countertops. Get rid of it and use something more practical. Unless, of course, the dealer who sold the slate to you (and made good money in the process) has some secret solution to your problem. I mean, they probably did some serious homework before they start selling slate! ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2113: I want to lay bricks about 2'' feet high around the bottom of my house. How do I go about doing this? Thank you, Robert, June 25, Reply

A 2112: Is there a way to repair a hairline 8" crack that goes all the way through 12 yr old corian? Herzog, June 25, Reply

A 2111: I would like to find Canadian suppliers of good quality paint for restoring old granite monuments. I am looking for colors: white, black and "gold". Please supply names, addresses ,telephone numbers or fax numbers. Kevin, Canada, June 25, Reply

A 2110: What is the recommended procedure for cleaning and maintaining granite kitchen counters? Thank you, Marian, June 25, Reply

R1: Dear Marian: You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2109: I'm confused like everyone else. What is Saturnia and can it be used on countertops in the masterbath along with the floor and shower walls? Is it a Travertine or a Limestone. Nancy, June 24, Reply

R1: Dear Nancy: "Saturnia" is nothing but a fancy name to define cross-cut travertine (cut across its grain, that is, rather than along it, like travertine is usually processed).
Yes, you sure can use it for the applications you're inquiring about. It's definitely much better than limestone!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2108: I am looking for Jersey "ironstone" and can not find on the internet. I believe it is a sandstone in the southern part of New Jersey, but can not find resources. Can you help? Paul, June 24. Reply

A 2107: What a wonderful site!
We have a problem and I'm not sure where else to turn....
We have absolute black granite countertops in our kitchen. We usually clean them with Windex and they sparkle, even after 8 years.
Now it looks as if someone applied some type of bleach to clean the countertops and when dry the granite is hideously marred by dry, white swirls and streaks. We tried the Windex but the streaks reappear after a few seconds. Please let me know your thoughts. And what can be done restore the countertops. Thanks so much! Best always, Michael, June 24, Reply

R1: Dear Michael: I'm honestly at a loss here. Besides the fact that Windex is certainly not the right cleaner for stone (no matter how nice it looks after its use. Yes, I know, that's what your contractor told you to use, but what do they know about stone, anyway?! They're even honestly convinced that black "granite" is a granite! ...), and no bleach can do to black "granite" what you're reporting to us, unless ...
1) Your black "granite" had been "doctored" by the factory with the application of a black "makeup" to make it darker and the particular "cleaner" used by somebody (probably of an acidic nature, or a mineral solvent) removed part of the makeup. I doubt that, however. In fact, if this were the case, unless you use your kitchen just about as a show-place, it would have taken less than 8 years to show. 2) You countertop had been sealed by the installer with an impregnator-type sealer, which is not advisable in the case of black "granite" due to the inherent density of the stone. If that's the case, the continuous use of Windex may have weakened the sealer and the following application of a stronger cleaning agent did the rest. What you see may be damages on the sealer, not on the stone.
3) The cleaning agent used by someone was based on Hydrofluoric acid (contained in many a rust remover), which, to the best of my knowledge, is the only acid that can etch black "granite". You can find out if your case is represented by either the 1) or 2) possibilities above by stripping your countertop with a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it. Follow the directions and precautionary measures and warnings printed on the product's can.) If that will turn out to be the solution, then don't seal your countertop ever again, use the right stone cleaner, and live happily thereafter.
If instead nothing happens, then you will need the assistance of a professional stone refinisher that knows how to deal with black "granite" (you won't find many of them!)
If you need additional assistance on this matter, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask them to put you in touch directly with me. Finally, should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2106: Thinking of installing Paradiso and Dakota Mahogany granite tiles in entrance foyer and kitchen. Will I have staining problems and do they need to be sealed often. Thank You. Pesada, June 24, Reply

R1: Dear Pesada: Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2105: I applied a poultice to remove a stain from my granite countertop. Not only is the stain (a ring from the bottom of a bowl -- perhaps lemon juice?) still there, but the granite is now completely faded out where the poultice was applied. I have tried soaking it in mineral oil, polishing with car polisher, and resealing multiple times, but there is no change. What can I do? Jeremy, June 23, Reply

R2: Dear Geremy: Since you did not indicate what kind of "Granite" you have, or at least its color, it's hard to come up with a diagnosis. But let me guess: Your "granite" is dark, maybe even black ... Am I right?
If that's the case the solution is quite simple (and shocking, too, I'm sure!). Soak your countertop with massive doses of paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride, and make sure to strip all -- I do mean ALL -- the sealer that's sitting on it, and probably had no business being there in the first place (Follow the directions and the precautionary warnings printed on the back of the stripper's can). You will most likely see a "miracle" happen before your very eyes in the process: Your stains will just vanish in the thin air!!
Scroll down this page and go to the posting 2012 by Frank, USA, dated June 4. You'll find his problem quite familiar, I reckon! Of course, you will read my answer to it, too. In your case however -- if my guess above were right -- the 2nd possibility of my answer to Frank would be the most likely. I'd really appreciate if you'll keep me posted. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: I am not sure what to tell you except I don't think I can give you a quick and painless solution. Nothing you did would affect the color of suitable natural stone. I think you should involve the company that sold you the counter. Let them know that the finish was adversely affected by lemon juice or whatever was in the jar. Let me know what type of stone you purchased. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist, USA.

A 2104: I have moved into a 50 yr. old sandstone exterior home and the sandstone needs to be clean. I live in north western Pennsylvania were they used a lot of wood or coal to heat homes in the area. I tried some different chemical and had no luck. I heard of cleaning it with a steam or hot water. Please tell me your opinion in cleaning sandstone exterior homes. Thank you, J. C., June 23, Reply

R1: Dear J.C.: You could try to power wash your stone with a solution of water and bleach.
There's no guarantee that it'll work, but the chances are quite in your favor. Bleach won't hurt the stone (keep the PSI at no more than 900). Rinse with plain water, once you're done. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA.

A 2103: I would like to get a copy of your guidelines on maintenance of residential stone installations. I just discovered your site, and love it. I am choosing flooring and countertop materials for a bathroom and kitchen. I don't have any specific questions yet, as I am still reading all of your excellent advice. Thanks, Mary, June 22. Reply

A 2102: I am looking for recent good references, about the rule and influence of moisture content on uniaxial compressive strength of Dolomites, Limestones. Thanks, Dr. Hayati, Israel, June 22. Reply

A 2101: I am working in business consulting firm in Armenia and our client wants to enter a USA market with green granite and beige travertine tiles and slabs of different sizes. So would you refer me to reliable market research regarding the U.S. market for residential and commercial dimensional stone products? The information I seek would ideally include a well developed discussion of: market size, growth rates, and forecasts by product (ie.; granite, marble, slate, etc.); market dynamics; market trends; competitive products; new products; as well as the competition and major players in the industry, sales prices per square foot or pound? If yes please provide me with it. Or do you know of a source for the information I seek? If yes please inform me about it. Madlena, Armenia, June 21, Reply

A 2100: I am installing 3/4 inch Blue Pearl granite on an island which will have a 12" overhang. The granite will be set on 3/4 inch plywood. Will I need to provide additional support for the overhang and if so any suggestions? Thank You, Bruce, June 21, Reply

R1: Dear Bruce: If the plywood is solidly bonded to the slab you should not, but ... as they say, "Better safe than sorry!" Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2099: I would like to know if there is a white granite without any beiges or greys (for a countertop). I live in New York City. Thank you. Lacas, June 21, Reply

A 2098: I have just had Uba Tuba granite countertops installed in my kitchen. Need advice on daily cleaning. The installer said he put a sealer on it prior to installation. Is there a need to put a sealer on it? when and how often? Marta, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear Marta: Granite should be sealed, Uba Tuba (which is not granite) should not. About daily cleaning (which is a far more important issue than the application of a sealer), you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2097: I want to export Manga Red cobble stones, I want to do it through the internet, I want complete information how to start and what are the requirements to start? Siva, India, June 20, Reply

A 2096: We have raw gray slate that we want to use to make a patio. It has been outside for 2 yrs. and has turned a greenish color. Can you tell me how this can be cleaned to make it look like it did originally? Thanks, Sharon, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear Sharon: It's most likely mildew. Try to power-wash it with a solution of water and bleach. It should work. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2095: We moved into our first house about a year ago; it has a slate shower. As time has gone on, I've become aware that half of the slate seems to have been finished with some sort of protection, while the other half has started to dust up or flake. Because I'm new to the house-owning game, I'd like some advise on what to do. Is there a product used specifically for slate to coat it? Should this be done yearly? Should the entire shower be redone? Can I do this myself or is it wiser to get a pro to do it? I'm also interested in any cleaning tips people might have; at the moment I scrub the floor and walls while I'm showering, using no cleaner of any sort. Is there a special slate cleaner? Any tips people might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nicky, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear Nicky: "dust up and flaking", uh ... I'm afraid you've got water behind those tiles.
It's terminal. Waste no time and redo the entire shower stall. Do get a pro and choose a better stone than slate for your shower (marble or granite, perhaps) Make sure that the professional installer is not a "Michelangelo" and that the installation is not done "butt-joint". If you need to know more about it, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask them to put you in touch with me directly.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2094: I have an apartment complex with a large French limestone lobby. It was put down about 6 years ago and is showing a lot of dirt and wear. I have a very capable maintenance staff but I need the product. Can you tell me where to get a cleaner. Please do not recommend a outside company as my owners will not approve it. Help! Charlotte, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear Charlotte: Well, now that we know that your boss wouldn't approve an independent contractor that know what they're doing, and insists at solving the problem "in house" with some "special" cleaner, the only thing I can tell you is my salutation trademark, that is ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2093: Do you have some information about the material Dakota Mahogany? John, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear John: It's a very good stone, very hard and very dense. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2092: I have just laid quartz rock on my outside steps. I now need to wash the rock to remove the excess sand/cement mixture. My understanding is wire brush the stone with an acid wash. Can you please tell me the correct procedure. Thank you. Alan, June 20, Reply

A 2091: Is it possible to remove the brown/gold stains that have occurred on my husband's headstone and slab as a result of someone using well water to water the grass in the cemetery? Sonja, June 20, Reply

R1: Dear Sonja: I'm afraid not. It's rust and it's through and through. You may want to consider consulting with a local professional stone refinisher ... Who knows, maybe I'm wrong. I sure hope so. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2090: I wish to tile stairs and floors of a seven-story building used as office accommodation in the central business district of Dar es Salaam city in Tanzania. I do not wish to use ceramic tiles, in fact these are what I have and I wish to replace them. Trouble is I cannot make up my mind between granite and porcelain. I simply don't know squat about porcelain (apart from tea crockery that is) and all I know about granite is what I read in this forum (good work guys, and thanks). So, apart volunteering that Dar is a tropical Indian ocean port city that is hot and humid most of the time the rest is just questions.
(1) What material is best suited for such an application?
(2) I somehow understand enough (?) about granites and the lemon test. Is there anything I should know about porcelain e.g. fabrication, maintenance, types, etc?
(3) Who is the closest supplier of granite or porcelain to my location, and
(4) What are the prices I am looking at f.o.b, or even better, c.i.f. Dar es Salaam?
(5) Is there any other flooring material that can withstand sustained heavy duty footwork abuse better than the ones mentioned above? If so, can you answer questions (2) thru (4) on that/those material(s)? I understand that some of these questions might not have off-the-finger-tips answers but I will appreciate all the help I can get. Bora, Tanzania, June 20, Reply

A 2089: I have a new granite counter top on my bathroom vanity KASHMIR GOLD.....it is doing great.
I also had a little shelf made for the shower niche and it keeps getting spots from shampoo bottles, etc...if we catch it in time and rinse off the soap, it usually dries. However we now have a spot (container was from conditioner) that has been rinsed off, but has not dried out completely and it is two weeks. How can I get out the spot? This shelf was sealed with the same spray solvent that the tile grout was sealed with, should we be treating this area differently (once we get the spot out)? This should not require such high maintenance should it????? Eileen, June 19, Reply

R1: Dear Eileen: Who gave you the idea that an Orthogneiss stone like your Kashmire Gold would be easy to maintain? They they perhaps told you that's a granite??!! That stone is like a sponge and should not have been installed in a wet environment like a shower enclosure. I have guidelines on stain removal available at no cost for you. Just send an E-mail to this site and ask them to put you in touch directly with me. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2088: I would like information on how to properly clean marble monuments. Our family head/footstones are made of either Georgia or Colorado marble. They have not been cleaned in quite some time. Some of the particles are easily removed-soil, algae (with scrubbing), but I'm afraid that due to neglect, something has penetrated the marble. What should I do? Also, once I have things cleaned, should I seal the marble? Thank you, Elizabeth, June 19, Reply

R1: Dear Elisabeth: There are so many variables within your situation that, either I respond to you with a whole book, or I don't answer at all! You need to consult with a professionals stone refinisher on this one. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2087: I am a student / researcher. Please email me relevant information on stone materials (domestic & contract interiors i.e. shops, offices etc). Need characteristics of materials, finish available etc. Any brochures or samples that can also be sent from suppliers would be wonderful including specs of material. Many thanks, Paula, June 19, Reply

A 2086: I would be interested in the shower spray cleaner. Our limestone shower (sealed) was put in two years ago and we have a soap scum build up. I have cleaned it regularly with vinegar and water but it really hasn't taken care of the problem. I would appreciate a name of a stone cleaner for this purpose. Diane, June 19, Reply

R1: Dear Diane: They didn't give you much information about maintenance of natural stone where you originally bought it, did they! What a shocking surprise! Water and vinegar, uh ... That's a good one, all right, especially for calcite-based stones!!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2085: Is it true that outdoor patio tile should be Porcelain because it will not crack when it turns frosty weather? We want to find a good source for Porcelean Tile for a patio. Thanks, Janie, June 19, Reply

A 2084: I bought unglazed Italian Terracotta tiles 10 years ago and need to buy more today but the local tile company that I orgininally purchased from no longer sells imported tiles. I can not find them at any of my other local (Boston, MA) tile stores. I haven't had much luck finding information on the Italian tile company on the internet. The information on the old box says:
Ceramiche 3F S. P. A.
cotto forte
Perugia, Italy
3F is imprinted on the back of the tiles. They are 12 x 12; 3/4" thick, unglazed tiles. Has any one heard of this company or tile? Can I order direct from Italy? Krose, June 19, Reply

A 2083: What is the crossover name for Mocha Juparana? June 19, Reply

R1: I don't know for sure, but probably "Espresso" Juparana, or "Cappuccino" Juparana, or "Cafe-latte" Juparana ... take your pick! By the way, what's your name again? ... Mine is Maurizio and I despise anonymous. Ciao. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

A 2082: My mother-in-law has an antique marble sink that she is restoring & placing in a sideboard to go in her new homes bathroom. There is one problem, there are yellow brown stains on the marble. It originally came from a bathroom in an old home. It may be makeup products, oils, or rust. The sink is in wonderful shape besides that no cracks chips or anything. If anyone has any suggestions please help. Thank you, Missy, June 18, Reply

R1: Dear Missy: Those stains are there for good. Just think of them as part of the "character" of the piece! ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2081: I am considering using travertine as an exterior patio table top. Is this a suitable use? Should sealants be used? If so, what type? What type of maintenance routine should I expect? Any tips, pitfalls would be appreciated. Thanks, Cheryl, June 18, Reply

R1: Dear Cheryl: For as long the stone has a low hone-finish (not polished!!) you can use travertine outdoors. To help prevent staining you can apply a good-quality impregnator / sealer (below surfaces, that is). Other than that, I advise you to get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2080: We are consulting a new establishing firm supposed to produce stone products and want to enter into US market, so need the mentioned information. Would you please provide it,. June 18, Reply

R1: I don't do anonymous, but this one's funny, all right! ... You need "the mentioned information"? Where the heck did you mention it??!!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2079: The granite installed in my kitchen is called Juperana Miel. Is it granite or some other type of stone? What is best for its maintenance? Debby, June 18, Reply

R2: Dear Debby: So, now we have this "Juparana Miel" stone (isn't "Miel" portuguese for honey?), uh! Like I always say, a new one (some times two or more!) every day!
Sorry never heard of it, but ...
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: We presume you have searched our Stone Album and not found the stone.
We will post this inquiry in our 'Identify the Stone' section.
Stone names are often mis-spelt and sometimes sellers make up names which are different from the real trade name. FindStone.com

Thanks for your reply. I had not searched the Stone Album because I didn't see it. I looked through it and a couple of the granites look like it. I was told it is from Brazil and Cecilia A Yellow and Amarelo Cachoeiro Yellow both look like it. It is a light color base with a lot of other colors in it like peach, grey, shades of brown and bits of pink and dark red, which I was told was garnet. Debby

A 2078: I am remodeling a master bath and am putting in a steam shower. What are the pro's and cons of covering the shower walls with a) sheet corian ; b) marble or c) ceramic tile? What would you recommend? Does it make a difference if the water in our area is hard? Wes, June 17, Reply

A 2077: Please advise regarding Espenrz Auldstone - Rosa Zarci. I am considering using this stone tile in my kitchen. Terry, June 17, Reply

R1: Dear Terry: Never heard of them! What are they supposed to be, "granite" or something? I learn of some "new" stone every day!! So, now we have "Espenrz Auldstone" and "Rosa Zarci" ... Quite interesting ... I'd love to know what the heck they are myself!!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2076: I stupidly installed limestone in my kitchen and after a few weeks have shadows, and one area of white spots where lemon juice was spilled. The counters have been sealed already, however should I have it re-honed and re-sealed? Perhaps the original sealant was not of the best quality? Could you please help me with information on what products to use. Thank you, Vicki, June 17, Reply

R1: Dear Vicki: When you said "stupidly" you said it all. In fact, if there were a remedy to your situation, it wouldn't be "stupidly", would it!! :-)
The sealer has absolutely nothing to do with the etching (not staining) that you have when you spill something acidic on the surface of your top. Etching is not related to the porosity of the stone (which is what an impregnator/sealer deal with), but exclusively to the chemical makeup of the stone (Calcium Carbonate). No sealer under the sun can protect your stone from acid etching. A good piece of advice: Get rid of it and get over with your nightmare. You made a mistake, don't stick to it. It's only money and, I believe, your mental health is more important than money, isn't it! Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2075: Can you tell me if there is a website for fixers abroad and also in this country? Paul, June, 17. Reply

A 2074: My home is 32 years old. The living room 20.0 x 25.0 feet has a slate floor. The house is built of second hand materials, I believe the floor is of Lilydale (Victoria, Australia) slate. In several spots on the floor small areas are crumbling, the grey surface is lifting and exposing a chalky substance underneath. Please advise me how to arrest this problem, and if possible repair the damage. Gary, Australia, June 17, Reply

A 2073: We have a textured slate floor that receives heavy traffic every day. It is light in color but gets a thin black film of oil and grease that does not completely clean even after daily scrubbing. The only places that appear very clean are where the rubber tires of the floor scrubber spin. We are curious if there are any rubber nubbed brushes available for Noble floor scrubbers or Clark scrubbers. We have tried many types of degreaser products but none seem to do the trick. Thank you. Doug, June 16, Reply

A 2072: I recently purchased a hand carved alabaster lamp (antique - approx 100 years old). It has many small holes and is dirty in several places. The antique dealer recommended that I clean the lamp with dishwashing liquid and a toothbrush. So far, this has not worked very well. The lamp has a bit of a darker stain (it appears) in places. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations on what I can use to clean the lamp? I didn't know if there is some product I could buy that would be safe? Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Lisa, June 16, Reply

A 2071: We have a natural looking slate floor. I like the look, so based on your sites information it sounds like I should not seal it, but should just continuing cleaning the spots as they come. It sounds like if there is an especially bad spot I could sand it down a little by hand and then use mineral oil.
A person that I had come look at the slate told me that I should not use cleaners, and especially bleach, in cleaning the floor of my ceramic tile shower. I haven't seen this verified on your site yet.
I was hoping your maintenance recommendations would verify or dispel the advice I've heard from all these sources. Thanks! Barb, June 16, Reply

A 2070: I have recently acquired a new apartment using Perlatino Sicilia marble slabs in the living room. As part of the interior design, I have extended the living room at the expense of the storeroom. As a result, I had to buy and install additional marble slabs in the storeroom area. I have a couple of questions:
1) The new marble slabs are lighter than the ones in the living room. Is there any way I can 'stain' them a shade darker? If yes, can a non-skilled person like myself do the application.
2) Do I need to seal the new marble slabs? If it is recommended, what product should I use?
3) After the polishing have been done (pls assume that it is going by the normal method), the grout lines appeared darker so much so that it demarcates each and every slab. Any theory on why this happens and what I can do to get them back to their original invisible colour? Thanks, Winston, Singapore, June 16, Reply

R1: Dear Winston: I will answer to your questions in the same order they were asked:
1) No, you can't.
2) No, you don't. "Perlatino Sicilia" (geologically a compact limestone) is an extremely dense stone and absorbs very little, if anything. Try to spill a few drops of water on it and you will notice that even if you let the water sit there for an hour, none of it will go in the stone.
3) I don't understand what you're talking about. Why did you have your floor polished after installation. Weren't the slabs already polished by the factory? Now, granting that -- for some mysterious reason -- you had the floor polished, I can NOT assume that it was polished by "the normal method" (as you call it). No truly professional method of polishing could darken your grout lines. So, I must assume that they did not actually polished your floor (no matter how shiny it looks) but "crystallized" it instead, which has been proven as being a fake way of polishing (kind of a high-tech, high-risk way of waxing. You're darn lucky that your particular marble can take the chemical beating inherent to such dubious process.) The reason why I assume that, is because the "polishing" is done with steel wool pads under the floor machine (instead of white nylon pads, or natural fiber pads), and steel wool, effected by the strong acid which is the main part of any "crystallization" concoction, can make the grout darker. What to do now? Nothing unfortunately, other than scraping off the grout and apply new one. Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2069: I recently purchased a home in Boston. The master bath has a black (flat) slate counter top. (It took me awhile to determine that it was slate - so go gently this is new to me). The counter top doesn't seem to have any sealant. Water stains the countertop along with any product that hits the surface. I'm faced with the challenge of: 1) properly cleaning the counter to remove the stains and 2) sealing the counter top so to prevent future stains. I do not want to change the surface tone or shine. I love the charcoal grey flat color.
Thanks for tips on both care questions and product recommendations. Also any information on service providers in my area would be happy. Hab, June 16, Reply

R1: Dear Hab: You have a third option, which is the one that I recommend wholeheartedly:
GET RID OF THE SLATE COUNTERTOP and replace it with a charcoal granite instead (it will be polished, though.)
Those "stains" are not stains, are etch marks and only a proven professional stone refinisher will be able to repair them. What's more, they will happen over and over again, no matter what kind of "magic" sealer (including my own!!) you will try to treat the stone with. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2068: I have a very nice amethyst geod (gee-ode) that I want to turn into a candle holder. I need to drill into the protruding crystals about 1 1/2 to 2" down and then hone out the hole to insert the small candle. How can I do this? What do I need to buy? and can this be done relatively inexpensive? Ken, June 16. Reply

A 2067: I love with black HONED granite to use on our countertops and island. BUT the site sounds like I may be sorry if I go this route! We are doing a colonial revival with antique white cabinets and the combination looks beautiful. The polished black is too modern a look.
A. Should I forget it?
B. What type of black granite is best?
C. What's the sealing story? My UNSEALED sample has too many fingerprints so I am hoping sealing would help. Please give me info on black honed granite. I do not want super shine but it seems there are varying degrees of honing. What's best other than high gloss to prevent stains. I don't need to hone it to death. Where would I see a picture of medium or high hone and would they be more stain resistant? What's best sealer and how often? I think this is better than soapstone which is too soft. Also whats best type of black granite to get if honing is our plan?
Boy do you discourage Honed black...... There is no hope if we medium hone it? Isn't there a better type to consider? Hate the high shine in our colonial home. HELP with some encouragement if possible. Kathryn,
June 15, Reply

R1: Dear Kathryn: Forget about the "you MAY be sorry" thing. You WILL be sorry, period, end of story, no debate and shut up!! :-)
There's no such a thing like a better black "granite". And as far as the finger marks, etc. thing goes, no sealer can prevent those. Impregnator/sealers for stone (which are not recommendable with black "granite" to begin with) only help preventing inbedded stains, not surface stains. That's the very reason why hone-finished black "granite" will drive you insane!
The only possibility to minimize the problem is to have a color enhancer applied to the countertop. This will turn the surface of the stone from gray to permanently black, but still with no shine. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2066: We are a international contractors based in U.S. involved in construction of buildings, damps and oil and gas industries all over the world.
We have been awarded a medical college in Qatar, in the specification for interior stone under section 09634 the stone is specified as Cabra limestone with Water polished finish. Our suppliers are now asking what is water polished finish.
I will be thankful to you if you can give provide me details for "Water polished finish", Thanks & Regards, Rajesh, June 15. Reply

R1: Dear Rajesh: I'd love to know about this "water polished finish" myself. I've never heard of it! I'm serious, if you ever get to know what on earth that definition means I'd truly appreciate if you'd consider sharing the information with me. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2065: Our marble vanity countertop had become dull in one particular location. Much of the rest looked as good as new. Upon having a refinisher review the situation in Nov, 01, he indicated it was caused by cleaners, etc with citrus extracts. I thought it may have been caused by my contact lens cleaning solution because the location of the problem was exactly where I cleaned my lenses. He said not possible. The counter top was then diamond buffed, honed and polished. It is now becoming apparent that the dull haze is coming back in the same location. We are using only approved marble cleaners and am keeping all contact lens material in the sink. The refinisher claims what ever we did before, we are still doing and are causing this problem. I am certain this is not true. What could be the answer? I have another appointment with the refinisher and would be interested in your reply ASAP. Thank you. Nancy, June 15, Reply

R1: Dear Nancy: Your stone refinisher is dead wrong: Contact lenses cleaner do etch marble. (besides, any pH active generic cleaner could etch marble, not only those based on citric acid.) If you want, I could teach you how to refinish your marble surface yourself. It's pretty easy, in consideration that you're dealing with a light etching (just send an E-mail to this site and ask them to get in touch directly with me). After that, yes, you guessed, keep your countertop protected (with a plastic sheet or something) where and when you
clean your lenses.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2064: What kind of paint would I use to paint a limestone rock that is in my outside flowerbed? DJL, June 14, Reply

A 2063: Is travertine and limestone one and the same? I am having travertine installed in my bathroom as we speak. I hope I have done the right thing. They are going to "seal" it. After all this, how do I care for the floor. Thank you, Judy, June 14, Reply

R1: Dear Judy: No, they are not the same. Travertine is it's own kind of stone, but if you want to make a comparison, it's similar to compact limestone -- which is what most marbles on the marketplace are. Mercantile limestone is typically softer, dull (it just won't polish), and quite absorbent. In a bathroom is a NO-NO in my book, while travertine is quite a good choice. Contrary to popular misconception, in fact, travertine is quite dense and doesn't absorb much (it's a scientific fact, not a hearsay). If this were my bathroom I would insist with the installer not to have it sealed (not even with my own sealer!!). I don't believe in "Let's seal it regardless." The more you leave the stone in its natural state -- like Mother Nature intended -- the better it is for it. It's again a scientific fact, not this writer opinion.
Rather than a stupid (useless) sealer (again, including mine!!), I'd be more concerned about sensible maintenance guidelines for the everyday care of your stone. That's important, all right, and, I promise you, you wouldn't be getting those from somebody who's planning to seal travertine because they heard from some salesman that's so very porous!!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2062: The polished top of our marble table appears to be etched. We had a party and someone spilled white wine on a small area. The area appears to have lost its finish and feels rough.
It has been recommended to treat the area with a mixture of plaster of Paris and acetone, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2 days.
A similar problem occurred 4 years ago and professionals refinished the top. Soon thereafter glass rings appeared to flaw the polished finish. Do you have any suggestions? Bob, June 14, Reply

R1: Dear Bob: Get hold of the person who advised you to remove your etch mark by using a poultice designed to remove oily stains (acetone) and shoot him or her dead, possibly on a Sunday morning in the middle of your town's square! You'd be rendering humankind a great favor!!!
An etch mark is -- like you already know -- some sort of shallow, chemical scratch. How can you possibly remove a scratch with a poultice, which is meant to remove oily stains??!!
You had your marble surface refinished before and that's the only way to go about repairing a surface damage such as an etch mark, unless you want to try doing it yourself, which I'd be glad to teach you (just send an E-mail to this site asking them to get in touch directly with me). After that, keep your finger crossed and keep your stone surface protected. No stone impregnator/sealer under the sun (not even mine!) will ever prevent such types of occurrence. Sealer for stones only help prevent stains (true stains, that is) not a surface damage just because it so happens to look like a stain.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2061: Please help me with any information available of the stone called Valentino Semi Classico, it have any other name perhaps? Thank you, Gio, June 14, Reply

R1: Dear Gio: The only "Semi classico" I know of, is an Italian compact limestone (traded as marble, by the name of Botticino Semi Classico. If that's "your man", it's a beige colored stone, it's quite hard (for a marble) and quite dense, too. It doesn't take a polish uniformly (it shows several natural dead spots -- no crystallization, that is -- that will not polish), like its brethren Botticino Classico does.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2060: We are about to install a porcelain tile floor. We have 30 year old cabinets which we are keeping (they are in beautiful shape and we love them). Presently there is 2 layers of linoleum and a layer of plywood. We have had a few tile installers come in. One said to remove the lower cabinets to level out the floor then tile and the put the old cabinets back in. He would use liquid level and thin set to level. The next tiler said not to take out the cabinets to use wonderboard and thin set. The third tiler said not to remove the cabinets because they are old and may shift and the drawers may not slide as they should, to use thin set with a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch trowel to level the floor and the to use wire not wonderboard which would be stapled to the plywood. What should we do. Remove the cabinets? Use wonderboard or use wire? Please help. Mary, June 14, Reply

A 2059: Our designer asked the installer of our 16" x 16" travertine floor to use a European look with texture and with tight joints. The Greek bath house look. We have the floor installed and it is beautiful. We have some friends previous tile installers look at it and state that it is installed with out being flush. Can you define texture? The designer seems to think it is fine. What should we do? The tiles are a little uneven and we asked to have the lippage taken down. The floor is still with texture and I was wanting to get a professional opinion not just a tile setter. Cliff, June 13, Reply

A 2058: I inherited a pair of nightstands from Germany with marble tops, one is broken in two - can it be glued???? If so, with what type of glue? The other has a rust colored stain, although the origin is unknown. Is it safe to start with a peroxide solution to treat before moving on to stronger solvents? Thanks, Karon, June 13, Reply

R1: Dear Karon: Yes it can be glue with epoxy glue for stone. Don't waste your time with the rust stain. It will never come out. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2057: Even after reading your site I am more confused than ever as to what kind of stone to use on my master bath remodel. I want to use natural stone but what is the best for a large shower floor & walls and the rest of the bathroom floor. I will probably want to use a light color as my main tile with a darker accent stile.
These are the considerations I see that I need to look at (feel free to add more if needed)
Durability in environment
Maintenance!!!!????!!!!???!!!??
Slippery when wet ..... Polished, honed ...?
Cost (marble vs granite)
Ease and cost of installation
Sealers, impregnators, etc? John, June 13. Reply

R1: Dear John: Slipperiness. When wet, whether the floor is polished stone, or hone-finished stone, or ceramic tile, etc., it can be slippery. The only material that's not slippery is carpet.
Polished marble is usually a good choice, providing that you understand its limitations and avoid the most common pitfalls and misconception. One of the, for instance, is the sealing (impregnating) thing. Unpolished and filled travertine is quite an enjoyable choice, too. I would stay away from limestone. Most of them won't give you any problem, but some will, and the dealer who will sell the stone to you will most likely be the last one to know.
Of course, "granite" is an excellent choice, too (for as long you choose the right one).
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2056: Please help me identify these stones: IMPERIAL GREEN, ALMOND MAUVE, GUADALUPE LIGHT, NEW BLUE, BAHIA GREEN AND RADO MEDIUM. Thank you. Au, June 13, Reply

A 2055: I have a rock fireplace that must have been coated with some kind of sealer, and there's a few spots that have chipped off, exposing a white chalky look as if you are now seeing the inside of a rock. I'm not sure how to restore it. Also I need to clean the entire fireplace, it has black smoke stains . I don't know what kind of rock it is but it looks very natural flagstone like. Tami, June 13, Reply

A 2054: I want to install a stone patio in the rear of my house (sand base).. I know very little about stone. Most retailers in my area (western NY) only sell fieldstone by the pallet. I saw quartzite stone on the net for patio use and it seems to be a good option. My question is, what is the difference between the two types of stones. Should I pursue trying to obtain quartzite versus fieldstone. Thanks, PMC, June 13, Reply

A 2053: Please explain the difference between travertine vs marble and how each will perform on my floor. As well as ability to clean. Rick, June 13, Reply

R1: Dear Rick: Your first question has been already answered a couple of thousand times in this very site. Scroll down, man, scroll down!! :-)
About your second question, they perform the same.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2052: I have a question? I just installed Blue eyes granite in my kitchen and it has been professionally treated. How often does it need to be treated in a home with 2 adults no kids? And, how do you clean granite and marble? I have marble floors and marble vanity tops in my bathroom. Thanks, Rosanna, June 13. Reply

R1: Dear Rosanna: Professionally treated, uh ... Whatever that means! ... :-) Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2051: We are in the process of having kitchen counters installed using Cafe Brown granite. The installation is "complete" but the seam between two slabs is visible and rough. When I run my fingernail over it, it catches. The contractor claims he can repair it - he sent a crew over and they used power polishing machines on the area. I can't tell any difference. In the process of running a razor blade over the seam to "clean the epoxy" off, they put a chip in the granite about the size of a small pencil eraser.
I haven't given them the final payment ($3,000) yet. Can you recommend a true professional I can call to come and look at the work. I live in Orange County California (about 20 miles south of Disneyland). What do I do. JOHN, June 12, Reply

R1: Dear John: Simply demand your fabricator to come back and fill the chip properly with epoxy filler.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2050: I would really appreciate any information you might have regarding sealing of granite countertops (what product to use). Also, do you have have any information on repair of chips? I would really like to hear what you have to say about sealing granite. JOHN, June 12, Reply

R1: Dear John: Which one "granite"? Many a "granite" don't need to be sealed. Some other are, in my opinion, beyond sealing.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2049: We are replacing our kitchen sink and need to cut the marble in order to do so fit the new bigger one in.
I do not know what type of marble it is but it has a smooth finish and is of medium thickness.
What do I need to consider? Know? Professionals will do the work ($$!!!! Ouch! They want $250!! To re-cut). I am worried they might crack the whole piece….. What do u suggest? Mike, June 12, Reply

A 2048: I have just installed Castilla Dark (black and white speckled) granite countertops in my kitchen. Due to a series of embarrassing miscommunications about the materials we were using, we attempted to seam the cracks using only the hardener and dye (without the "body").
When the seams failed to harden, we realized our mistake and immediately scraped out the hardener. Prior to scraping the hardener out, a faint black stain along each side of the seam had begun to appear, and upon scraping it out, the stain darkened further. We have yet to seal the tops, because we are hoping to find a way to remove these stains before we do.
Can anyone offer advice on what this stain is and how we might remove it? The absorption obviously occurred through the unfinished edges of the stone, so it is a hard surface to reach. We have tried acetone, but it has not made a difference (and after reading your page I'm not sure we applied it correctly and I'm not sure it was the best place to start). Todd, June 12, Reply

R2: Dear Todd: I do have guidelines about stain removal. Send an E-mail to maurizio@findstone.com and ask for them. I'll be glad to e-mail them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: Our Library of Articles or Advice Wanted section may already have the answer, so please check these. FindStone.com

Thanks for the response. I posted the question before I had exhausted your site and have since found the answer elsewhere on the site. It is a great resource! Todd

A 2047: Could you send me information on cleaning, care and maintaining Volga Blue granite? Also, what are your thoughts on the quality of Volga Blue? Wayne, June 12. Reply

R1: Dear Wayne: By the way, Volga Blue is indeed an excellent choice. I love that stone!!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2046: We're planning on installing granite counter tops in our kitchen, and were planning on using Kashmir White (Cashmere White) granite. I have read responses and it sounds like this isn't a good choice for a kitchen. Can you please explain further why not to use Cashmere White for kitchen counters, and how to know which granites would make a good kitchen choice? Thanks, Phil, June 11. Reply

R1: Dear Phil: Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2045: I just had Juperana White granite countertops installed at Christmas. I put a stainless steel dish tray to the side of the sink, and now find that it has left a gray square stain in its wake. A crew under a spice holder also left a tiny rust stain. Despite the advice of my installer, I now realize that granite is extremely porous and easily damaged. How can I remove these stains? Is there anything I can do to beef it up against any future damage other than removing all metallic objects or sealing them at the bottom to prevent contact? prevent further damage? Nancy, June 11, Reply

R1: Dear Nancy: So, now we have also "Juparan white" to add to the long list of the "Juparanas" (whatever the word "Juparana" means, anyway!). No, Nancy, granite is not extremely porous. Your "granite" is extremely porous. You were sold a crappy stone (certainly not a granite by a long, long, long, looooong shot!) labeled as granite, you never did any homework (unfortunately the stone industry is totally unregulated and this kind of
fraud goes on unpunished day in and day out. As matter of fact, probably your fabricator honestly believe that the stone they sold to you is granite. After all, the invoice says so!...), and now, here you are with a problem with very little solution.
What to do? Hit the "Reply" link at the end of you very question and ask to get in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to e-mail you my guidelines about stain removal. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert panelist.

A 2044: What is the best way to care for my granite countertops? Meg, June 11, Reply

R1: Dear Meg: Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2043: Is there a part of the world that better granite comes from? I heard granite that is more polished from Italy is better than less polished from India? can you advise? Gary, June 11, Reply

R1: Dear Gary: The man upstairs doesn't know much about the geographical definition invented by mankind. "Granites" are good or bad all over. Now, about the finish, yes, it's true, no matter where the stone comes from (Italy buys blocks from all over the world), the slabs and tiles processed in Italy are better than the same "granites" processed somewhere else, with Italian machinery and Italian training.
Why? I don't know ... The "magic touch", maybe!! Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2042: I accidentally left some phosphoric acid on a black granite countertop, and it bleached the countertop white in several areas. I have tried to replace the color by using concrete chemstain, a hydrochloric acid based stain, and it did nothing. If anyone knows of a product used to dye color into granite, please let me know what it is and where to get it. Sincerely, Shannon, June 11, Reply

R1: Dear Shannon: Who on earth gave you the idea to try with an hydrochloric acid-based stain??!! Anyway, you don't need a PROduct, you need a PROfessional stone refinisher who knows how to do black granite (it won't be easy to find, I promise!). No color came out (no color was ever put in to begin with). What you see is the mark of corrosion made by the acid. When a dark stone loses shine, it loses depth of color, too.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2041: I have got terrazzo flooring in my home. Unfortunately a battery leaked from my sons toy and left ugly stains on the floor. Could you please tell me how I could remove the stains. Chetna, June 10. Reply

R1: Dear Chetna: They are not stains, they are marks of corrosion generated by the acid in the battery. You need a professional stone refinisher to come out and re-grind your floor.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2040: We recently had a beautiful roman brick fireplace installed with a large light gray limestone mantle and header. A workman knocked over scaffolding and put a 1 inch chip in the top edge of the mantle. The masons have tried to patch the chip, but the color is too light (white) and the patch doesn't have a crisp edge. Is there anything that can be done to repair it so the damage isn't so noticeable. The fireplace is the focal point of the room and the chip is very obvious. Duwes, June 10. Reply

R1: Dear Dewes. What an unfortunate accident. Patching of chips and other surface damage is an acceptable practice, and there are companies that have spent a lot of time and research in developing patching material to match different limestone. Obviously, whoever tried to put the patch on your fireplace mantle did not have very much experience. See if there is a stone restoration company in your area that can handle the job, and make sure the contractor responsible for the initial damage is going to pay. Now for the disclaimer. Patch is not stone, and it will always have a different appearance, no mater how skillfully applied. This becomes particularly obvious when a sealer is applied, or the stone gets wet. Maybe having the contractor replace the stone is the best fix for your problem Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2039: Hello, My granite countertops (which I love, thank you!) were sealed when installed 4+ years ago. They look great and remain clean and shiny. Recently, someone told me that it is necessary to re-seal them every 6 months to prevent them from drying and cracking. Is this accurate? How do I do it?, David, June 10. Reply

R1: Dear David: Many people talk just because they have a piece of thong in their mouth and feel that they need to use it.
First off you have to find out if your "granite" needed to be sealed at all to begin with (see the "lemon juice test" on the left side bar on this page). Second, assuming that it turns out that it does need sealing, it all depends on the sealer that was originally applied. Some need to be reapplied every year (never heard of every 6 months), some every 3 to 5 years, and some others every 15 to 20 years. You won't be able to know that unless you get hold of the bottle of the sealer that was originally applied (besides, it's never a good idea to change brand of sealer, unless you provide to strip all the existing sealer.)
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about impregnator/sealers. That should make you understand how a sealer works and what it's all about. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those, because they are much more important than a sealer! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2038: We are the 2nd owners of 6-yr old home with a granite island with a cook-top. Do we need to put a wax or some other type of treatment onto the granite counter to maintain its sheen, and if so, what kind and how often? Peter, June 10. Reply

R1: Dear Peter: No, I don't consider it a necessary procedure. If your countertop were REALLY cleaned, it should be shiny enough!
What I mean is that, in the vast majority of the instances, when a customer inquires with me about the fact that their countertop is not so shiny anymore, it turns out that it's some sort of film sitting onto its surface. That happens when ones doesn't use the proper specialty cleaner, or when they "clean" their "granite" surface with water and dish soap. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2037: I found your article 'Rocking the Boat' very informative. I am acquiring some knowledge on granite counter tops and the information in your article has opened my eyes.
My in-laws are strongly thinking of having granite counter tops installed in their kitchen. They have 25 feet x 24" wide of counter space, which includes a double sink and a slide-in Bosch range that comes flush with the counter. They want full bullnose edging and a 4" high back splash. They also have a bar counter top that is 8 feet long x 14" wide that would need full bullnose edging on each side.
They have already been quoted $8000 Canadian, which seemed to me a little high, so without their knowing, I decided to do some groundwork for them, as they have no time to educate themselves because they are very busy in their business.
They have the money to pay, but I would like to see them get quality workmanship at a fair price.
We live in Vancouver, Canada. What would be a fair ball park price per lineal foot of what I have described and who could you recommend in this area to provide and install the product? I realise that there are many factors which may affect the price. Best regards, John, June 9, Reply

R1: Dear John: Your question sounds quite familiar. Didn't I answer it already?...Anyway, I never get involved with prices and, since your read my article, I always recommend to choose the higher bidder. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2036: I am an MBA student and I am doing my project in marketing. So I have selected granite industry, and my topic is consumer preferences for granite products. Could you please tell me some relevent information and which sites to check. Thank you, Shilpa, June 9. Reply

A 2035: Help! Our kitchen floor is a disaster area. We have laid 32sq mt limestone "Florence" from Mandarin. Prior to sealing it with 'lithofin' stain stop we were trying to ensure the beautiful stone was perfectly clean from grout etc. We used Wickes' patio cleaner (less than 10% hydrochloric acid aaarghh) mixed with water 20/80 thinking this would be a weak enough solution to do no damage. Unfortunately we were wrong. We have a nude stone floor with sweep marks and splashes which seem to be permanent and do not know which way to proceed. Any ideas? Any magicians? Yes we were stupid, but the heartbreak is punishment enough. Thanks for reading - depressed yet still hopeful of Chester. UK. June 9. Reply

R1: Dear Chester: And we don't want no broken hearts, do we!! It's not hopeless, but there's only one answer for you: Get a professional stone refinisher. They will be able to re-hone your floor to a finish very close to the original, thus eliminating the surface damage made by the acid. It will cost you a pretty penny, but it's only money and your heart will be mended! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2034: The granite flooring in my living room has a white powdery build-up that I can't seem to get rid of. It is difficult to wipe off and 2 days after cleaning, the powdery stuff appears again. Your help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jennifer, June 8, Reply

R1: Dear Jennifer: There's only one answer to your question: Efflorescence. There's moisture under your granite tiles and, by migrating through the core of the stone toward the surface it chemically reacts with some of the silicate minerals present in your stone and produce an inorganic salt that "bleeds" onto the surface and makes a deposit that looks like lime. As you already found out on your own, cleaning it is only a temporary fix. You have to find out WHY you have moisture under those tiles, and see if there's any way to eliminate the problem.
Let me give you an example: If for any chance your "granite" tiles were installed directly on a cement slab at ground level, then the water table could find its way through the cement (which is porous, of course), and from there through the setting material and eventually the "granite". If that's the case, nothing can be done other than ripping out the floor, putting a proper waterproof membrane all over the subfloor and then thinset over it. I hope it's not your case. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2033: I'd like to know what brand(s) of granite impregnators that you would recommend. We didn't do the "lemon test" before selecting our granite and would not like to protect it before using it! Any information you could provide would be appreciated! Brooklyn, June 9. Reply

R1: Dear Brooklyn: Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2032: I am going to lay self sticking vinyl floor tile in the kitchen. We have laid sanded plywood over the old floor and sealed the seams. Do I need to put a sealant on the plywood or can I just put the tile down? Karen, June 8, Reply

A 2031: I stumbled across a few of your posts and thought I'd get your opinion. I have had two homes with 'granite' in each and I am on my way to the third. We want 'granite' again and were offered Rosa Perrino, Santa cecilia, Ubatuba, Verde Ubatuba, Baltic Brown, and Luna Pearl, all for the same cost. Are any of these real granite or am I going to have a maintenance nightmare with them? That is all I really want to know, you seem to have the 'right' answers and I need some help! Sincerely, Dave, June 8. Reply

R1: Dear Dave: Luna Pearl and Rosa Porrino are true geological granite. (Actually, Luna Pearl -- a.k.a as Bianco Sardo is THE granite!) They are absorbent, but their absorbency is limited and can be easily controlled by applying a good-quality impregnator / sealer for stone. All the other stones you listed are not granite, but, with the exception of the Santa Cecilia, I consider them "better" than true granite for all the intents and purposed of a kitchen countertop. They are all quite dense and, most likely, require no sealing at all. I consider Santa Cecilia "borderline" in my book. Its absorbency rate -- though still controllable with a good impregnator/sealer applied several times over -- is approximately twice as much that of true granite. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2030: I have found a "limestone graphite" (or vice versa) in Vancouver and I am wondering if you have info on it. Considering it for kitchen counter. I think it is from Italy. Thanks, Esther, June 7, Reply

A 2029: I have bought a condo that has marble countertops and sinks in the master. However, one of the sinks, around the drain, has small hairline cracks in it that have turned black...looking like hair lying in the bottom of the sink. How do I repair this? Susan, June 7, Reply

R1: Dear Susan: You don't. What you have is not natural marble, but "cultured marble", which is a manmade material (plastic, that is). I'm no plastic expert, but I do know two things on this particular subject: 1. the cracking around the sink drain are quite common with that "cultured marble". 2. They can't be repaired. Sorry! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2028: I am very interested in new countertops in my kitchen made of Barracuda Blue granite. In your experience, what is the absorption rate of barracuda blue? Also, I have seen one person note that it is subject to fissures. Is this true? Should this be a matter of great concern? Jim, June 7, Reply

R1: Dear Jim: Never heard of that stone. Natural fissures are a common occurrence on many a "granite" and usually don't represent a concern, at least from a structural point of view.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2027: I just had a large area of beautiful multi-colored slate installed today and they grouted it. Unfortunately I don't think they wiped the slate off soon enough after grouting for even after my several scrubbings on hands and knees, it still will not come off. The thick grout is off, but what is left looks like a greyish dusting on the surface and the slate isn't pretty anymore. What can I do to get this grout off the slate? I probably need to remove this before sealing it don't I? I would very much appreciate your help. Need to move quickly on this for I am expecting some equipment coming in in several days. Thank you for your time. Tracy, June 5, Reply

A 2026: Wouldn't a good sealer take care of that? The problem I have is that I'm looking at a granite sample from home depot that is permanently mounted to the wall. I'm hoping that a good sealer (which I'll apply according to your guidelines) will reduce the effect on any possible staining. Thanks and Ciao, Brandon, June 5, Reply

R1: Dear Brandon: I don't quite understand your question. What is it, are you going to install
granite on a wall? If so, what's your problem? How can you possibly stain a wall? Is there any likelihood that you're going to rub (just splattering wouldn't make any stain) some Ocean Spray or some cooking oil on your wall?
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2025: How much would an UNPOLISHED block of absolute black granite cost to have delivered to a site about 30 miles southeast of Austin, Texas, USA?
The block would be 6 feet tall (or possibly 8 feet tall) by 38 inches by 38 inches. What would the weight of such a stone be? Please send estimates for both sizes. Also, how long after I order would it take to get to central Texas? How is payment handled? I am a sculptor. Thank you, Kelly, June 5, Reply

A 2024: I have real jade pebbles. I sell it by tons ($475.00 USD to Los Angeles). I was wondering what is the (MOH) number hardness of it and would like to know if this is marketable. Also would like to know where I can find a geologist I can send a few samples to verify if it is a Nephrite or Jadeite. Scott, June 5. Reply

A 2023: How to convince an owner of granite tonality which quite natural but not easy to convince them. Any good description to influence. I am a contractor. Thank You, Lai. June 5, Reply

R1: Dear Lai: English is not not my native tongue, but I made it my priority to learned ever since I moved to this country, and I manage to get understood quite well all the time. Unfortunately I have no idea what you're talking about. Get help with your language problem, then I will see if I can help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2022: We have installed Emser Antique White Travertine in our master bath 3 weeks ago, and were planning on installing it in the kitchen also. But were informed, (after it was laid) by the Tile Contractor, that travertine is extremely porous, scratches easily, and is easily broken. He also told us that walking on it with shoes will scratch and possibly break it. He left a natural stone enhancer telling me to seal both the stone and grout with it twice, 10 days apart. I did this and so far seem to have no problems with it. He suggests installing corain, or a ceramic tile in the kitchen. We want to stay with a durable light colored natural stone to last years, through our 9 month old daughter, a declawed cat, and a Boxer puppy. Christy, June 5, Reply

R1: Dear Christy: While I never heard of this "Emser Antique White Travertine" if it is travertine and it's finished with a matt finish (honed), than you shouldn't worry too much about it's maintenance requirement. Of the three statements proffered to you by your contractor, only one is correct, namely that travertine scratches relatively easy (not any more, however, than all marbles and compact limestone). In fact, it's not very porous; contrary to popular misconception the scientific truth is that it's a stone which is just as dense as most compact limestone (which in turn are denser than marble). As far as the idea that it breaks easy is concerned, it shouldn't happen if they executed the installation properly. If the installation is not well executed, even ceramic or granite will break.
The application of the color enhancer did not hurt your stone, but won't do much good to it in terms of protection. The right intelligence about its daily maintenance will go a much longer way than the application of a color enhancer. But it doesn't seem to me like they gave you much of that, did they! Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2021: I am attaching herewith an image of a stone flooring. it's a French lime stone and most likely the name is "Alt-Portou". This stone is processed to give a antique look. The edges are given a pillow finish and the surface has a soft glow to it although it is natural surface.
We are interested in getting the knowledge of how is this finish given to the stone? Please do let me know if you have any information regarding it. My basic interest is that is it possible to give a soft shine to natural surface of Kota Stone. Regards, Subodh, India, June 4. Reply

A 2020: I happened upon the stone sight today....and received quite an education. I have a question...and I hope you can help. I am redoing my kitchen. It will consist of commercial appliances -- and have that 'look' as well. I really, really dislike Corian and granite. Really. I am planning to have Carrara countertops...but read where you said that Carrara should never be used in the kitchen. Why?!?!? I know very little about marble...but, I remember my grandpa Menotti always used Cararra in the bakery. I greatly appreciate any help you can offer! Thank you. Deborah. June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Deborah: I am one of the fiercest advocates against the use of marble in a kitchen as a material for a countertop. However, there's nothing wrong with using marble in a kitchen.
So, now, what's the story here?! ...Well, there's nothing wrong for as long as one accepts the idea that their White Carrara marble (or any other marble, for that matter), will end up looking like the one of your grandpa's bakery, that is, all stained, scratched, worn down and beat up!
It's not the case with the vast majority of the American and North European consumers, to whom even the smallest blemish represents a major issue. In consideration of the preponderant general scenario, marble is certainly not the right choice for a kitchen, but if you accept it for what it is and -- most importantly -- for what it will get to look over years of intensive use, then there's no law that says the you can't use it. Of course, you'll want it with a hone finish (not polished, that is) like your grandpa's. To minimize staining you will also want to consider having it sealed with a good-quality impregnator / sealer for stone. Hone-finished marble is more absorbent that its polished counterpart. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2019: I'm considering Caesar stone for my kitchen worktop. How does it compare with granite for heat resistance and general wearability. Regards, Stuart, June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Stuart: As you probably know, Ceasarstone (that to the best of my knowledge is not available in the US) is a so-called "engineered stone," which is a fancy name for manmade (94% granite chips mixed with 6% epoxy resin, if memory serves me right). Wearability wise is comparable to "granite." It does not need to be sealed, but, due to the presence of the resin, I don't think that's as heat-resistent as "granite." I personally like "granite" better, providing that one can choose the right one.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2018: How much it cost to per SF to clad a facade with polished black granite 1" thick 1.5' x 1.5' on metal studs? I am an architect. Hosam, June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Hosam: As much as the market bears. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2017: I thought that Breccia Oniciatta was an Italian Marble, but I don't see it on the find a stone under the Italian stones. Where can I find a picture of it? Margaret, June 4. Reply

R1: Dear Margaret: I really don't know where you can find a picture of it, but I can tell you
two things:
1. "Breccia Oniciata" is indeed an Italian stone traded as marble.
2. Assuming that you can find a picture of it, it won't do you much good.
There are so many variations between different batches of that stone, that even myself -- who've been dealing with that particular stone since puberty(!) -- have a problem recognizing it for what it is some times!
The best thing to do if you're interested in that particular stone, is to go to few dealers that carry it, examine what they have in stock (not just the display in their showrooms), and when you see the batch that you like, just grab it and buy plenty of spare tiles!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2016: Would appreciate information on sandstone, blocks, lintels, window cills and quoins. Alston,
June 4, Reply

A 2015: Are Pueblo and Durango the same thing? Also is Durango Cafe the same as a travertine called Cafe? I am told there is not any difference between types of travertine--I mean the quality. Your comment on the cite indicates there are. How do I know what a good travertine is? How do I know if it is from the US, Mexico or Italy? This is our dream home and we have worked very hard to get to this point and I don't want to make a big mistake. Also what principal should guide one when choosing the color or pattern? They seem so similar. Patty, June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Patty: I don't have an answer about the Pueblo and Durango question. What I do know is that Durango stone is indeed a travertine (from Mexico). Because of the way travertine (any travertine) was formed, it's one of the most consistent stones available. Of course there are differences between travertine coming from different corners of our blessed planet, but they are minimal and marginal. So, choose whichever you like. You can't go wrong! But ... The real question is not as much about the different travertine, as it is
WHERE in your house you're going to install it, and with WHAT kind of finish (polished or honed). Those are indeed quite important issues. If you feel like needing additional assistance, feel free to hit the "Reply" link at the end of your very answer and ask to get in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to help.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2014: What type of stone is Giallo Veneziano? Does it go under a different name? Is it a type of stone that would absorb stains? How would you compare the Peacock Green and the Ubatuba, and Pocono Green which one would you pick at first choice for a honey color kitchen with dark brown trim? Something nice and I shouldn't have to worry about staining? Please reply I am very confused what to do. Thanks, Sruli, June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Sruli: "Giallo Veneziano" is traded as granite (yeah, right!). It's rather absorbent and will require some serious sealing before using it. I don't know "Pocono Green", but the other two stones you've listed are a much better choice than "Giallo Veneziano" from a maintenance point of view. They are both much denser and require no sealing at all.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2013: We moved into a house that has quite a bit of marble. The marble is in good shape but has a lot of water stains that don't seem to come out. Any suggestions? Katy, June 4, Reply

R1: Dear Katy: A lot has been already said, and several times over, about "water stains".
Hit the "Reply" link at the end of your very question and ask to get in touch directly with me. I will tell you a web site where you can learn everything you need to know about "water stains" (which, by the way, are NOT stains) and how to cope with them.
I would also encourage you to get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2012: Dear Expert: We purchased our 'absolute black' granite tiles and had our countertops built this passed April.
The store that sold them to us never mentioned that we should seal the tiles after installing them. Within a couple of weeks, we started noticing some stains that were actually lighter than the black granite. The stains were most likely from juice and water. We called the store and they recommended doing the procedure that has been described in your advice column make a paste of poultice (we used baking soda and acetone), apply it over the stain, cover it with plastic and leave it on for 48 hours). The stains did not come out, but since my wife was having some friends over, she sealed the countertop with Pro-Solve 10 from Aquamix. The day after her party, there were several more stains. The store owner took a left-over tile home, did some experiments, called the technical department of the sealing solution company, and then came over and applied a poultice paste over the stains and left them on for 3-4 days. This too did not work.
At this point, I don't know what to do to remove the stains. We have begun discussions about who is responsible for the problem, and I am doing as much research to determine both if there is a solution and if not, if we were sold defective material.
Do you have any advice for removing the stains other than what I have mentioned?
Do you think this may be a case of 'doctored' stone vs real quality granite? Your advice, please. Frank, USA, June 4. Reply

R1: Dear Frank: I'm so glad you put your name. As a rule I don't do anonymous, and, boy oh boy, do I want to answer your question!!
When incompetents get their "education" from other incompetents, and then in turn "educate" other persons down the line, that's exactly what happens. Everybody is looking at a problem but nobody understands the nature of it, and, consequently, try to come up with canned and blanket "solutions" (which are the only ones they know and that of course will not work), because their brains are not trained to think on their own!
Black granite, not only does not need to be sealed, but it's a definite mistake to seal it (even with my own sealer!), because you most likely would end up having all those weird "stains" that you're reporting and that nobody can understand what they are. Your direct experience confirms that: You applied a sealer and the problem intensified, instead of disappearing!! That should lead any normal person with an IQ slightly higher than a carrot to conclude that, maybe, we're going in the wrong direction, but ... What can you expect from a bunch of salesmen! ...
Let's start by saying that none of the weird things that you see are stains, no matter what they look like. They are in fact ACID ETCHES, no debate, period and shut up! Now that we've determined the REAL nature of the problem, let's examine the possibilities and possible remedies.
1) This is the most unlikely. Your black "granite" is not real "Black Absolute" from South Africa, but is one of those rare stones that look like black granite but are a mix breed. That is, they have some calcite in them, and THAT is what reacts with the acids.
No black granite is a true granite. Most of them are either Gabbro, or Dorelite, or (even if just a lonely one) Anorthosite. None of them would ever etch, if it were left alone.
2) Still unlikely. Your tiles had been sealed in the factory, and the sealer (which never had a chance to be absorbed by the stone -- as it should -- due to its inherent density) is the one that's actually "staining," not the stone itself.
3) Most likely. Your black absolute "granite" tiles have been "doctored" by the factory via the application of some sort of black makeup to make them darker, therefore more "sellable." It is usually the case with Black Zimbabwe (a Dolerite). Black Zimbabwe is not, by far, an inferior stone. It is in fact an excellent stone from a mechanic point of view and for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop. Its only problem is that it's not really black (rather a dark gray), hence the "doctoring"!
Now, what to do? If we're dealing with the case #3, the problem could have been easily solved by cleaning the makeup off your tiles' surface using a clean rag and acetone, but now we have two different layers of some stupid sealer on top of the makeup, and acetone won't cut it anymore! Still -- despite all the "expertise" displayed by all the "gurus" involved in your stone adventure, and their desperate attempts to screw things up permanently -- there's a solution. Get hold of a good-quality paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (anything else won't cut it), and soak the heck out of your tiles. Give ample time to the chemical to melt away all the crap sitting on your innocent stone and keep feeding it as it dries; then scrub it with a scouring pad (NOT a green sponge -- it would scratch the granite surface, as incredible as it sounds!). A silver scouring pad will do just fine. DO WEAR RUBBER GLOVES ALL THE TIME AND KEEP THE ROOM PROPERLY VENTILATED. FOLLOW ANY OTHER PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE WRITTEN ON THE CAN. Repeat if necessary (after the first cleaning, you may have a few streaks of residue) by doing the final cleaning with a clean white rag, instead of a scouring pad.
At the end of the day, you will have your dark gray stone nice, shiny and with no "stains"! Accept it and learn how to love it for what it is (not really black, that is), because it will serve you faithfully for many years to come with no problem at all, for as long as you won't seal it again!! All this, of course, unless you're actually dealing with the rare yet possible case 1) listed above, which has no solution. I would also have all the "geniuses" you've been dealing with read this message. Who knows, maybe some of them will be able to absorb some real intelligence (providing that their brains had not been sealed with an impregnator for stone, that is!!). Finally, do NOT waste your time asking them how to take care of your "granite" tiles on a daily basis. You already had a taste (and a bad one at that!) of the kind of "competent" answers you'd be getting, don't you! But don't despair, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! And, who knows, your stone
"professionals" could use them, too! ... Fat chance! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2011: My husband and I are to be joining the ranks of marble and granite professionals, and we would like some advice from those who have been there, done that. We are establishing our business in the eastern US. Also, if you could send us any relevant information, we would greatly appreciate it! Thank you, Emery, June 3, Reply

R2: Dear Emery: A lot of people can claim to have been there. Nobody can honestly claim to have done that! What I mean by that is that nobody will ever finish to learn in a complex (yet fascinating) field like natural stone! I know that I'm still not done, despite my over 40 years of experience (alas!), and the fire that I have within to learn new things every day is still very much alive and burning high!
As you can understand, the answer to your question can't be concentrated into a simple answer posted on this (wonderful) site, since it inherently implies a long term involvement.
Hit the "Reply" link at the end of your very question and ask to get directly in touch with me. I'll be glad to help for what I can. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: I have been in the marble business for 18 years, please advise if you are to open a small factory or shop and what type of market are you aiming to. I will gladly share my views with you. Filipe, Portugal

A 2010: The information I read on the web-site explaining the use and the definition of limestone. I disagree. I am not sure where you have gotten your information. I know there is a lot research that has been done. I have a limestone quarry and this stone is not soft and weathers very well. I personal know of homes and building that has this stone on them and it has been there for 100 years. Tom, June 3, Reply

R2: Dear Tom: In a perfect world, I would have to agree with you and the answer given to you by JVC (by the way, JVC, I noticed that you've been participating to this site for a while already. Don't you think it's about time to take your sunglasses off?! :-)), but we don't live in a perfect world, do we!
Most importantly we do not operate in an industry with any serious rules and standards. In as much I always recognized that the majority of the limestone on the marketplace will not create any problem, as a professional stone restoration guy I witnessed all too many cases in which certain limestone did represent a problem. What's worst is that, not even in one single occasion, I was able (nor was anybody else for that matter) to find a solution to any of those problems, other than ripping the stone out! Some solution, uh! Not exactly what end users have in mind, I suspect! So, we all agree that we have a few inherently "bad" limestone. If you add to the mix the total ignorance about stone displayed by distributors and installers (don't you agree with me, JVC, that there are a lot of "shoemakers" out there?), then, as a professional, I don't feel like advising anybody to go for it. Just too darn risky. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

R1: I'll have to agree with Tom. One cannot generalize about the suitability of any generic stone type for various purposes. Especially with the sedimentary stones that have not under gone metamorphism. I have been working with many limestones, and several sandstones, both as a mason and a carver for over 30 years. In the area where I live, there are 5 or 6 distinct limestones that are quarried for building stone, and at least a dozen others which are not for various reasons. Experience shows that the stones used are well suited to the task expected of them. It is not an accident that limestone has been the builders choice for many centuries in all corners of the world. It is not difficult to quarry unlike granite and some marbles. It is relatively easy to work, and impose a shape to. The dust created is not toxic like the silicates in sandstone and granite. It weathers well, and is not as hard to maintain as some other stones. No this does not describe every limestone, but it does describe those which have been quarried for many years, and used extensively in construction from ancient Egypt through the magnificent cathedrals of Europe to new construction going up through out the world today. Would I use limestone for my kitchen work surface? Probably not, although I know those who have and like the result. Would I use limestone for my flooring? Probably yes, and I have in many instances for completely happy clients. Would I use limestone to build my house? Most definitely yes! over any other stone available to me. Thanks for letting me vent.. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist

A 2009: Maurizio.. I know you are the expert, and I have enjoyed reading and have learned a lot from your advice and the advice of others on this invaluable web site!
It is really one of the most wide-ranging and informative I have come across on any topic. What I don't understand is the general obsession with some kind of Holy Grail of absolute perfection in the surfaces of what is a natural product (as you point out so often). I will never forget the sight of the glorious floors of Santa Maria in Trastevere or San Marco in Venice.
They have withstood in some cases more than 1500 years of foot traffic. Do they show wear? Yes, but consider what have they undergone compared to an average household (or even commercial) stone application. Besides Saracens ;-). Also, the average retail space or the average modern apt. or office building probably gets re-done within 10 to 50 years, anyway... these spaces themselves don't last that long! What, really, is the amount of babying needed for these stones? I am sure that installers need to respond to the expectations of their generally-speaking well-off and finicky clients, and I'm sure people selling the stone don't want to advertise any potential drawbacks to their material.... but is it reasonable or necessary to expect these materials to be maintained completely scratch- and stain-free with a mirror surface at all times?!?!?
If so, they should just forget marble or granite and buy one of those glass-like Engineered stones.
This is a long-winded prelude in the defense of Adrienne, the lady with the mosaic tile floor of stone and glass... She is going to enjoy that artwork for a very long time, and hopefully the generation after her will appreciate it, too. Of course, she should worry about correct installation.. but the overall effect should a heck of a lot more important than whether you can maintain a perfectly consistent polish between adjoining materials, no? Cynthia, June 3, Reply

R1: Dear Cynthia: Yes. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.
PS: By the way, if you want a polished floor as maintenance free as they come, engineered stone is not "your man" (it's close, but not even tough as certain hard "granites"). Polished porcelain tile is.

A 2008: Hi, I used "Zap" tile cleaner on our slate flooring, and now our tiles have white discoloration everywhere, and the tile scratches easily. I tested a small area first, and the cleaner seemed to work beautifully, so I proceeded to clean the entire kitchen. After about a day or two, the irregularities began to appear, and have gotten worse over time. What can I do to repair the tiles? Janet, June 3, Reply

R1: Dear Janet: Rip those tiles out and, now that you've learned the hard way that you do NOT want slate in a kitchen, install another more suitable material instead. At first it may sound too a radical solution, but, trust me on this one, it will be the only one that works. It will save you a lot of money (by not attempting useless solutions), not to mention the most important factor of the equation, that is your mental health! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2007: I have cleaned some of my own family monuments and I am looking to get into this area as a source of income. The primary problem I face in the area I am in is fairly simple, hard water lime buildup on monuments from cemetery sprinkler systems in town and city cemeteries - stones in country cemeteries with no watering other than natural rainfall don't really need any cleaning other than the biologicals that attach themselves to marble. This buildup is not a natural patina but a result of the necessity of creating a green carpet in cemeteries in a low rainfall area of the western U.S. - the encrustation on granite can get fairly thick, in many cases giving the monument an overall whitish-gray appearance and leaving it almost unreadable. This was the case with my Grandfather's stone, once cleaned after 77 years of getting sprayed with hard water it was a nice polished rose granite. The main question is this, which I can't seem to find a straight answer on the internet - is there any other solution to this problem other than acidics and abrasives? Basically I have been using CLR and steel wool and lots of elbow grease, then neutralizing with non-ionic soap and baking soda for polished granite which doesn't appear to harm the surface. On another family stone there was a heavy lime deposit on a large rough sandblasted part of the stone which I removed with CLR and pumice stone, but you go through pumice stone pretty quickly on granite, is there a harder cleaning stone available which wouldn't harm rough granite but do the job more economically? And overall, is this course of treatment safe long-term for modern monuments or can anyone recommend better, faster and more economical products available, and where and from what company? Rich, June 3, Reply

A 2006: I have a slate hearth that candle wax has dripped onto. How do I clean it? I recently scrubbed the inside of the brick firewall and hearth with Spic and Span - it did an ok job but did not get the wax stain off. Also, after I do remove the stain (if I can) is there anything I should seal it with? The hearth is 10 years old. Thanks so much. Sue, June 3, Reply

R1: Our Library of Articles or Advice Wanted section may already have the answer, so please check these. FindStone.com

Thanks for answering my email even though you couldn't help me. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Sue

A 2005: Hi there! I have have lots of experience laying ceramic tile but am looking forward to a project with granite tile, I would like to laminate granite bullnose to the edges of the front tiles also and hope you can suggest the proper "glue". Thank you! Merry-Lee, USA, June 3, Reply

R1: Dear Merry-Lee: Epoxy. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2004: I have Blue Pearl granite counter tops in my kitchen. I have been cleaning with Windex and now I find out that was the wrong product to use. Yesterday I cleaned them with super-tek marble cleaner and stain remover and followed that with Italian Craftsman Polish. They look pretty good but was wondering if there is any spray cleaner that I could use on a daily basis. The tile store I went to suggested a mixture of mostly water with a little white vinegar. I was just wondering if there was any commercial spray or cleaner available, something that would leave a very high shine. Thank you for your advice. Leslie, June 3, Reply

R1: Dear Leslie: You should you go back to your dealer and tell them that they should suggest their all too precious customers to also use sandpaper, when dealing with stubborn soil. There's not much difference between that and water and vinegar, anyway!
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.
PS: It wouldn't hurt if your dealer would take some time to read them, too. But, who knows, probably it would represent a too risky proposition for them ... All that information in one single dose... It could be just deadly!

A 2001: I am looking into stone to place in my condo. I am debating with myself. I like travertines esp unfilled. Is this harder to clean later and how is it to walk on barefoot. I have never seen a whole floor do. Is there any advantages to the filled/ honed. Thanks. Also do you know of a place to purchase this in 24x24 or larger in an ivory color. I am from the bay area, and would also be open to shipping it. Thanks, Dave, June 2, Reply

R1: Dear Dave: The difference between unfilled and filled travertine is that -- when unfilled -- its natural holes will collect soil and become very dark. If you like that, it's quite an enjoyable stone, and you wouldn't be feeling a thing while walking on it barefoot.
If the "the bay area you mean San Francisco (I live in a "bay area", too: Rarirtan Bay, NJ, that is!!). Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 2000: I have a yellow stain that has appeared on my cultured marble vanity top. It is directly under the soft soap bottle. In my old home the same stain appeared under the bar soap on the bathtub ledge. What causes this problem and how can it be resolved? Thanks, Nep. June 2, Reply

R1: Dear Nep: This is a place where expert advice is given on natural stone matters. Cultured Marble (despite its misleading name) is manmade material (plastic, that is). We don't know the first thing about it! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 1999: I recently bought this stone for a backyard patio. I was wondering if you could identify it and tell me where it comes from. I live in central Texas, I was told by one that it was Mexican and another it was from Oklahoma. I am attaching pictures. Thanks for the help! Eric, June 1, Reply

R2: Dear Eric, your samples are the most probably TEXAS CREAM LIMESTONE. Fossil of belemnite is probable on one bed surface. The limestone is probable of Cretaceous age. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

R1: Hi Eric. Can't really be sure without actually seeing the stone, but it looks like one of the sandstones that come out of Arizona and Utah. I too am in central Texas, so you can contact me through this web site. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 1998: I am interested in doing a mosaic tile covering on my laminate countertops. Is this even possible, and if so, how would I go about it? June 1. Reply

A 1997: Can you help? One of my kids dripped lemon juice over my honed marble flooring. It left white spots on the floor which appears to have gotten through the sealer, is there anyway to repair this with some kind of poultice? I had an issue like this with my limestone and had to have it professionally buffed (way expensive) but that was cleaning solutions that got on the flooring. Any help in this regard would be much appreciated. Gina, June 1, Reply

R1: Dear Gina: This goes to show how brainwashed are the people who sold and install your marble to you. They "solve" all problems with a sealer!! The lemon juice didn't go through the sealer, it simply totally ignored it! A sealer for stone -- which is below surface to begin with -- is designed to prevent stains, not "stains" (like the ones you have) and can do absolutely nothing to prevent the most common problem with calcite-based stone, which is the damages that all acidic substances (like the lemon juice) do to the surface of the stone by mere contact. Such type of damage (etching) has nothing to do with the porosity of the stone (which is what a sealer for stone deals with). It is exclusively the consequence of the chemical makeup of the stone itself.
Since it's not a stain, but a surface damage (like a scratch) you can't poultice it out. You need to refinish the stone surface. If you have a little patience and are a handy person you can do it yourself to an acceptable degree. You can use metal-grade sandpaper starting with a 100 grit, followed by 200 and finish with a 400. It's best if you do the whole procedure on a puddle of water. Each grit will need to be worked for approximately 2 minutes per square foot and the following grits will have ot overlap approximately 1" all around the previous one. Once everything is dry, if you still notice a certain difference, you can try to even everything out by rubbing (dry) a No. 1 steelwool pad. If all the above is too much for you, then get a professional stone refinisher.
Oh, by the way, don't forget to thank your dealer and installer for the "stone intelligence" they were able to supply you with.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 1996: I accidentally spilled grease on my stone patio. Any ideas on how to clean? thanks! Carmen,
June 1, Reply

R1: Dear Carmen: First line of attack (if you didn't do that already) is to wash it with a concentrated solution of warm water and dish detergent, followed by substantial rinsing with a garden hose. This will take care to thoroughly clean the surface. If a stain remains due to the fact that some of the grease has been absorbed by the stone, the you'll need ot poultice it out with acetone and talc powder (baby powder). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist.

A 1995: Folks, I wanted to know more about backer boards used in showers stalls, but I could not find the manufacturer web site. They come in 1/4 and 1/2 inches they replace wonder boards and their color is gray and one of it's composition is silicon.
The second question is, if I nail these boards with 2" galvanized roofing nails, do I need to cover the nail heads with mastic or a sealant to prevent moisture from leaking through? I have vapor barrier installed.
Third question. I'd like to set ceramic tiles on top of the existing linoleum. What are the cons of this method and what kind of thinset, mastic ... should I use? Rgds, Alex, June 1, Reply

A 1337: 'Dear Maurizio' Today is the first day I came to this site...and have read this entire page. I noticed that you stated that you were in the stone business, and that you lived / operated this business in Michigan. I also live in Michigan and am interested in buying granite countertops for my kitchen, and would like to know if it is possible to buy them from you. I noticed throughout your answers, your knowledge, honesty and sense of integrity are qualities you possess, and would like to deal with you. Is this possible? Do you sell to the general public? Sincerely, Rebecca, Jan 16, Reply

R1: Dear Rebecca: Yes, of course, I do sell to the general public, but I'm afraid that your source of information is not correct. I live in New Jersey (where all the fun is!!!), not in Michigan. Sorry, but if you're interested, I do know a good man out of Shelby Twp. who could help you out (under my personal guidance, rest assured!). He's my master distributor for the state of Michigan since 1993 and he's a very honest guy who I'm proud to consider one of my dearest personal friend (I spent several nights in his house, and even cooked risotto for his family!!). Let me know. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply

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