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WANTED! |
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March
31, 2002 |
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Ask any question, share your
knowledge, or offer your services!
Inquirers: Experts will answer
your questions and solve your problems. So email your question for
free display here. If you are willing to pay for some specific service
or want to buy some specific type of product, do state so.
Advisors: Please share your knowledge and expertise and give
as detailed a reply as possible to each inquiry. If you can offer
some specific service or product, please mention the type of service
or the generic product-type with indicative prices. If you can email
us a detailed list of products and services, we will give it as
a separate link.
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| A 1627: I'M LOOKING FOR
A COLORFUL MATERIAL TO COVER A OUTSIDE PATIO APPROX. 20FT X 6FT .THE
COLORS OF THE SLATE ARE VERY EYE CATCHING. WOULD IT BE
VERY COSTLY ? WOULD IT TAKE NEW YORK TEMPERATURE CHANGES? PLEASE
LET ME KNOW. Craig, March 31,
Reply |
| R1:
The colors of the slate indigenous to your area are fine for temperature
change. As long as the material is properly installed and maintained
it will do quite well. Material and installation cost varies by region.
As a rule of thumb, get three estimates and don't use the cheapest.
Shop for quality. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1626: I have just purchased
a new house (built about 18 months ago) and have a stone tile floor
in a bathroom. A few of the tiles were cracked and the flooring
subcontractor who built the house removed about 10 tiles from the
floor only to find that he couldn't get a good color match. The sample
of the tile states that the name is "Silver Travertine"
(with a supplier stock number of 1205). The original tile vendor still
stocks the product; however, the currently available stock is significantly
more brown than the original and would look terrible. I'm
interested in how I can get suggestions as to how to get a dozen or
so Silver Travertine tiles that might be a better color match.
Thanks in advance. Matt in Dallas, TX. March 31, Reply |
| R1:
It is impossible for anyone to match a natural material without physical
samples. I would suggest you or your installer remove the installation
and start over to achieve a match. The other course of action is to
put a sample back in the hands of the distributor and hope that they
can find someone else who received the material at the same time.
Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1625: I would like
to get some information on how one starts a small business of
refurbishing headstones on site. I have done some minor work for
people who wanted their monuments re-lettered etc. I would appreciate
it if you could provide me with some information in this regard. Thanks,
Allan, March 31. Reply |
| A 1624: I'm interested
in casting some of my stone sculptures in limestone or cold bronze.
Will you please follow up on your helpful comments and give me more
specific information. Thanks. Jim, March 31. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim. I sculpt in limestone, but never have cast a piece in limestone
or bronze (Cold or otherwise). However, in looking through various
sculpture supply house catalogues, I see that there are products available,
such as hydrastone for that limestone look. I imagine that the mold
making process would be much the same as for casting in poured bronze,
but I recommend getting some literature and educating yourself about
what you want to do. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1623: We are a monumental
company located on the west coast of Ireland, one of the requests
we frequently receive is to clean old limestone headstones. We have
traditionally sandblasted them however this is not the ideal solution
as damages the stone structure and allows them to become dirty again
quite quickly. I need a system, chemical or otherwise that will allow
a crew to clean the stone on the one visit, pressure washing is not
the answer as most of the cemeteries we operate in are very inaccessible
without a water supply also the are very difficult to take equipment
into.
In short a fast effective safe cleaning method for limestone headstones.
Can anybody help!? Matt, March 31. Reply |
| R1:
Hello Matt. This question has come up before, and the answer remains
the same. BLEACH!! Just spray it on the stone, and let it do its thing.
Never ever sandblast limestone if you want the stone surface to remain,
and pressure washing limestone is also not a good idea. If other dirt
and discoloring remains after bleaching, try a neutral ph soap with
a soft brush. Of course you will have to carry a pump up sprayer to
be your water source. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1622: I have marble
floors with white grout. How do I clean the grout without damaging
the marble? Please suggest a product. Myers, March 31. Reply |
| A 1621: I have just installed
green waterfall granite in my kitchen and would like to know how
to keep it clean and shiny. Now a really weird question. Even
though we examined our slabs and requested certain inclusions to be
omitted, there are 3 light colored inclusions in very strategic spots.
One especially is in the showpiece area of the countertop-- a 36 inch
round piece at the end of a peninsula. Is there anyway to darken these
lighter spots so that they don't show as much?? Do you sell
products? Thanks! Nancy March 31, Reply |
| R2:
Depending on the size of your natural blemishes, your fabricator might
be able to extract the stone from those areas, replace the void with
the same stone in a darker color, and then polish the surface. If
done correctly, your problem will have found a creative solution.
Rob, USA. |
| R1:
To clean the granite just use the neutral pH stone cleaners (not stone
soaps) that your fabricator carries. Unfortunately no. there is not
a way to darken a light spot. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1620: I read your
advice to a person installing marble in their bathroom. We are
building a new home, and are planning to use marble flooring in all
the bathrooms. I have never installed any tile before, but wondered
if it is too difficult to do myself. We did plan to hire someone,
but they charge much more for marble installation than for ceramic.
I have heard that Durarock is a good idea to put on the subfloor,
what else should we expect either in doing it ourselves, or hiring
a contractor? All the bathrooms are relatively small, and there are
only bathtubs installed. I look forward to hearing from you. Sincerely,
Pamela, March 30, Reply |
| R1:
I would say hire a professional. The difference between setting ceramic
tile and natural marble is quite a lot. The only advice to give is
check references, and see if you can view any work they may have done.
Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1619: Is travertine
suitable for an entrance and kitchen? What cleaning does it require?
How does the maintenance that travertine require compare to porcelain
tile? How does travertine age? What should I watch for when selecting
travertine (grade, etc.) I love the beauty of travertine and I do
not want a polished natural stone floor. Thank you. BOBBY, March 30,
Reply |
R2:
Travertine is very good material. The Italian and Turkish is the hardest
but we also sell lots of Mexican travertine used in kitchen floors
as well as 'whole house' and outdoors including stairs, patios, pool
surrounds, coping, etc.
A good stone soap, natural oil based, preferably a 'solid at room
temperature one', will protect the fill and the stone. Use commercial
neutral cleaners in between mopings of stone soap. Alex, USA |
| R1:
Travertine is fine for the entrance hall. In the kitchen in a honed
state I would let it be done. Compared to porcelain, travertine will
develop a patina and age. Cleaning travertine (honed and filled) requires
either a damp mopping or a good formula stone cleaner. You can put
a sealer on it to help make cleaning easier after the installation
is complete. Look at multiple pieces of the travertine and look for
material stability as well as stability in the fill. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1618: Maurizio, We
just bought a new house in Sparta NJ with Baltic Brown granite in
the kitchen and tumbled marble floor and shower in the master bath.
Builder says it has all been sealed - how do I maintain and protect
it? I have talked to Home Expo (who did tell us to seal it every
6 months) but also said it was ok to wash it with soap and water.
After visiting your website I can see that's bad advice. How do
I get proper products and their proper usage? Many thanks! Eilleen,
march 29, Reply |
| A 1617: I would like
information on producing terrazzo e.g. materials & production
method. Kind regards, Dominic. March 29. Reply |
A 1616: I would like
to know if you have any idea how I could go about selling some
marble slabs I have? I'm not sure what type marble they are etc.
They were laid as a sidewalk at my house when I bought it. We recently
dug them up to find they are very heavy, thick and large! We would
like to sell them, but don't know where to start. Thank you for your
time, Jennifer. March 29. Reply |
A 1615: Seven months
ago, we installed Jerusalem Stone (limestone) throughout our
bathroom floor, shower, and surrounding the bathtub. During the
installation process (a) many pieces of the stone tiles were severely
scratched (resembles a brillo pad scratch), (b) many baseboard edges
appear to have a "rippled" appearance, and (c) we cannot remove most
of the grout on the tile surface. We have currently identified two
companies in the Philadelphia area that does stone resurfacing. Do
you know of any other companies? In your opinion, is it a simple process
to remove such scratches and "ripples" from limestone?
Also, we are questioning the installation of the limestone in our
shower and surrounding our tub. We originially had ceramic tiles.
The installer simply installed wonderboard over these tiles then installed
the limestone. In essence, from the wall, we have ceramic, wonderboard,
then limestone. Is this standard protocol?
Any advise or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am very afraid
to have the installer take care of the problems in fear of creating
additional ones. I am panicking right now.
Thank you, Amanda, March 29. Reply |
R3:
Dear Amanda --
I am " The Tile Guy" and have been a tile, stone , and mable contractor
for a while. You got screwed!
First of all when you set stone you must use very good ( expensive
) sealer or you will spend more time trying to clean the faces than
you did setting the stone. They didn't , and then proceeded to mar
the faces by trying to scrub off the grout that would not release,
rookie move. They gave up after they realized it was hopeless.
YOU NEVER set stone over old ceramic tile. What a cheap guy. I have
done hundreds of marble and stone tub surrounds. Would you put down
a new carpet over the old one??? Whoever did your work was trying
to make a quick buck.
I am sorry to bring you the news I see it a lot and it never surprises
me ; everyone thinks they are a tile guy, but there is a right way
and a wrong way to do tile and more often than not the wrong guy will
do it the wrong way. I also have the rarest stones on earth. Peace
Prosperity, Tile Guy. USA. |
R2:
Wow, this is what good general contractors are for..
It sounds like the stone was handled improperly, it should not be
scratched at all, perhaps they had polished stone and did a horrendous
job trying to hone it.
Also maybe they cut the stone with a bad blade and chipped the edge?
Normally one would remove existing tile and properly prepare the space
to accept a new stone installation. My advice, bite the bullet, hire
a good general contractor and do the job right. Alex, USA. |
| R1:
I think from the sound of it the installer is not the culprit here.
The material many times comes this way. The process of installing
the limestone over the tile is not technically a bad choice. The real
problem I see is that the material was not adequately inspected before
installation. I believe that you should call the refinishing or installation
company with the best references to come over and look at the job.
They should tell you what should be done. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1614: I have a slate
fireplace hearth. During the installation of a new fireplace a
small hole appeared in the black slate. The hole is about 1-1/2"
long and approx 3/8" wide. How can I fill the hole? It was recommended
that I use black grout, but is this the best method? Jeff, Canada,
March 29, Reply |
| R1:
How does a hole just appear? I think that grout should be o.k. Buy
two types. One sanded and one unsanded. Fill the hole till it is only
1/8" deep with the sanded grout. Let it cure. Then go over it with
the unsanded grout. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1613: We have a farm
in northwest NJ with a lot of hedgerow fieldstones; and stones with
moss and boulders which we understand are more valuable. Are there
any published pricelists that we could refer to in our negotiations
with wholesalers who have offered to harvest the stone? What are
good resources for identifying the type and value of the stone we
have? Tom, USA, March 28, Reply |
| A 1612: I wish to
install Onyx. Can you enlighten me on it? Does India have good
Onyx? Iqbal, India. March 28. Reply |
R1:
Onyx is a soft stone, but very luxurious and expensive. Use in flooring
gives a very luxurious feeling when you sit or walk bare feet on it.
The disadvantage is that you cannot walk with shoes (because of its
nails in sole), or push furniture around on it because as it is soft
the scratches or marks dwell on it gradually.
Of course you cannot use it for outside wall cladding because its
color fades and it becomes brittle by sunrays. It is quite expensive
e.g. each sqm of 40x40x2cm ranges from U.S.$ 50 to 65 depending on
the color you choose. (Mainly three colors are available which is
white candy, light/dark green and orange. I doubt if India has any
onyx quarries, but please do forgive me if this hunch of mine comes
out wrong. It has a long life provided utilized carefully. Always
at your service. With warm regards, AST. |
| A 1611: I am also
looking for a source for Roxbury Puddingstone. I want to use it
as a marker for a grave. I am looking for something about 2-3 feet
wide at the base and about 3-4 feet tall. The monument suppliers I
called have never heard of it. Any suggestions? Thanks. Gina, March
28 Reply |
| A 1610: Could you please
tell me the history of Pakistani Marbles? How old they are?
When they haven first recovered in Pakistan and in which part? Regards,
J Green. March 28. Reply |
| A 1609: I have been given
to understand that the Indian government has issued new guidelines
for import of marbles into India in the current EXIM Policy. Dharam,
India. Reply |
R1:
The government has issued following guidelines:
ELIGIBILITY LEVELS:
The importer has manufacturing / processing units and has imported
marbles before under SIL.
4/5 star hotels on merit.
Places of worship / trusts of international repute on merits.
Imports are subject to price cealing:
For crude / roughly trimmed marbles - USD.300 CIF / Per.M.T
For rough marble blocks - USD.300 CIF /Per.M.T
For slabs - USD.450 CIF / P.M.T
Note: Applications for licenses would be considered on merits based
on above eligibility based on recommendations from related administrative
ministries. There is also a quantity cealing for some importers. All
licenses are issued on Actual user condition.
The government is also working out some other norms. More information
can be given only on specific request from actual importers. I will
be coming up with guidelines on other areas like Indian Customs Law
related to stone trade, Industrial Policy statements for setting up
manufacturing / processing units by overseas companies etc. I hope
this serves your immediate purpose. With best regards, DHARMARAJAN,
India |
| A 1608: I am planning
to start a stone shop. I would like to know the inspection procedure
of stones. Marc. March 28. Reply |
| R3:
I agree with Maurizio but I would say 5 - 7 years in the fab shop
first, so your boss can eat all the mistakes made by everyone involved
and not you. Alex, USA |
R2:
Dear Marc: This is the best piece of advice that you will ever get:
Go to work for a reputable fabrication shop for ... oh, say, 3 years
or so. At that point you will have achieved at least the 10% of the
experience that you need to start a fabrication shop on your own,
without the need of asking silly questions whose written answers,
no matter how well articulated they may be (and Vinay's are very much
so indeed), you will never be able to understand. By the way, why
don't you open a medical clinic? I've heard it's more profitable!!
Get real, will you! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
R1:
Inspection of Stone:
Sorting: First the stone must be sorted by its natural variations:
Every stone can be sorted in three shades - light, medium, dark.
Stone either has crystals or waves. If the stone has crystals, then
by grain size - small and large - also.
Then are defects - patches or lines or cracks. They can be accepted
at lower prices or not accepted.
Notes: Quarries in one area have only one type of stone. That stone
does not occur elsewhere in the world. All of the above are known
and specifiable by the quarry owners.
Measurement:
Blocks: Biggest cuboid is measured leaving out cracks. 5 cm / 2" allowance
is given in each dimension for transport damage, cutting losses, etc.
Slabs: Biggest rectangle is measured leaving out cracks. If a crack
slab is to be accepted, then 3" is left out on either side of the
crack and the two resulting rectangles are taken.
Tiles: These are cut-to-size and are thus already pre-measured.
Monuments: Exact size within specified tolerances.
Other measurements:
Gloss level: by a gloss meter
Right angles: +/- 1 degree
Thickness: +/- 0.1 mm for tiles, 0.1 cm for slabs
Other inspection parameters:
Polish: No scratches or polishing abrasive marks.
Edges: No chipping.
Everyone in the industry knows and understands these points. They
can all sort and give. Since they don't know how to sell the rejects,
hence they resort to cheating and hence the need for inspection.
For those in the trade, stone is a commodity. There is no touch and
feel aspect. That is only for the end-consumer. Vinay, India |
| A 1607: I am planning
to install 12" x 12" limestone tiles in my dining room.
Is there a method to check whether the tiles have dried. I
have been given to understand that the tiles have to be dried before
sealing. Rob. March 28. Reply |
| R1:
The drying times after placement vary from stone to stone and depend
on the amount of humidity in the subsoil. This can be checked by attaching
plastic foil with Scotch tape on various places of the floor for 24
hours. If afterwards condensation should appear on the foil, this
means that the floor still contains some moisture and may not be dry.
Swarup. India |
| A 1606: What do you mean
by Calibrated tiles? Jack, March 28. Reply |
|
R1:
Calibrated tiles, which are tiles that are milled according to thickness,
can easily be glued to the surface . One can directly glue on to
the surface ,preferably with a glue that is not water based or with
a cement glue.When the tiles are glued to the surface, the time
to harden will be considerably shorter compared to the traditional
placement method, whereby tiles are placed on a mortar bed. India.
|
| A 1605: Can someone explain
the definition of gangsaw, block cutter, monument sizes, etc.
in respect to natural stones available? Ajit, India, March 28. Reply |
R1:
Stone sizes: Blocks / Slabs: gangsaw size: 8'+ x 4'+
block cutter size: 6'+ x 2'+
Slabs are 2cm thick, edges are not cut.
Tiles: 1'x1'x3/8", 1.5'x1.5'x0.5", 2'x2'x3/4"
or 30.5 x 30.5 x 1 cm, etc.
In India, there is another size of 2'x1'x1cm for the local market.
Strips are tiles with free lengths i.e. 1' x free length.
Monuments (tombstones): Specific sizes and shapes for each
country.
Cobbles have standard sizes e.g. 6"x6"x6", etc. Jayant, India. |
| A 1604: Can stone floors
be polished? If so, what kind of polish should be used and how do
you avoid creating a slippery surface by polishing??? Thanks for your
help!! Karen, March 28. Reply |
R2:
Dear Karen: Only certain stones can be polished, i.e. marble, granite,
certain limestone, travertine, onyx, serpentine, ophicalcite, etc.
Certain other stones, such as most limestone, sandstone, slate, etc.
don't have the type of crystallization that's necessary to bring a
polish out of them. Polishing stone is a craft very difficult to implement
and hard do learn. Stone is polished by abrasion and friction (like
gemstone), not by applying some sort of finish onto its surface and
then buffing it up. There is no such a thing like "HOW TO POLISH STONE."
Not only do geologically different stones need different techniques,
but even among stones of the same geological classification there
are often huge differences of application. That is the very reason
why stone refinishing represents the very pinnacle of all stone related
activites, because it's the one that requires the utmost professionalism
and in-depth knowledge of stone. Hence the high rates applied by good
professionals!
I don't know the real scope of your question, but if you were thinking
about polishing you marble floor yourself, just forget about it! You
can't even rent the necessary equipment and materials, let alone knowing
what to do with them! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
R1:
The phrase polished in the stone industry is not the same as it is
in say furniture. It is simply sanding the surface of the stone until
maximum gloss, color, clarity, and smoothness is achieved. The addition
of impregnators and other topical applications increases slip resistance.
Get in touch with your local janitorial supply store for more information.
Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1603: Any thoughts
on the suitability of polished marble for steam showers? Would
hardness and pH of local water have a bearing on suitability? Greg,
March 28. Reply |
R1:
Dear Greg: If you use a steamer in a shower-stall lined with polished
marble, you WILL lose shine. It will take time, of course, but it
will happen (certain marbles will degrade earlier than others). The
good news is that the loss of shine is very uniform and does not represent
a real eyesore. The marble will just acquire a hone-finish. If it's
a dark-colored marble you will lose depth of color, as well; but that
can be rectified with the application of a good quality color enhancer.
If you like shiny walls in your shower stall, then you have to go
with either polished "granite", or polished porcelain tiles (some
of them imitate marble incredibly well!)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, ,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1602: We have a natural
polished marble floor in our shower which we put in when we built
our house six years ago. To minimize any build-up of soap scum
we squgee after every shower but now I am beginning to see the start
of hard water (calcium deposits) on some of the marble areas. Do you
have any ideas on how to minimize this build-up? Scott, March
28. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Scott: Yes, I do, but you're not gonna like the answer. The hard-mineral
deposit that you see is not what it seems to be. In other words, they
are not hard-mineral deposits. If you check your shower stall, especially
in its lower part, you will notice that there's either grout or caulk
missing. The water found its way under the floor tiles and now the
moisture migrates, by absorption, through the core of the stone and
the grout lines. The "mineral deposit" that you see is in fact some
type or another of inorganic salts that emerge on the surface as a
result of the chemical reaction of the water with the makeup of the
stone. The damage is deep inside the stone (actually through and through,
since it started from the bottom). You will be tempted, I'm sure,
to toy around with possible topical remedies (it's human nature at
work!), but ultimately you will have to reach the conclusion that
there's only one painful solution: rip out the floor, reinstall new
tiles, then, from then on, you will monitor you grout and caulk lines
religiously. The good news is that, after all, it's only money! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1601: First
I want to say that your site is very impressive.
I have been shopping for stone in Asia, not as a main business, but
to help an associate, and realize that it has re-awakened an interest
I had as a young "rockhound." Now I am
becoming more involved in continuing this work, but realize I
have none of the knowledge needed to contribute what I would like.
My only asset at the moment is that I can be trusted, as opposed
to many of the people in business overseas.
In buying slabs of granite, are there certain things you would look
for in a supplier? Should I only use suppliers with their own quarries,
or would I be better off with one who can choose from several quarries?
When I visit the factory, what kinds of things can I keep an eye on?
I might get 5 different prices for the same stone. Are there deficiencies
(outside of appearance flaws) that might make one less valuable?
I realize these are broad questions, but I would like to get the most
out of my visits to quarries and factories, and not just be lead around
by the nose by an eager seller. Best Regards, Yank. March 27. Reply |
A 1600: I know about
interior design. I am looking for someone to help me specify and
design stone steps in residential project in Asheville NC in a
turret. New Const. Would like limestone. What should I do? Snilsson.
March 27. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Snilsson: I'm your man! Get in touch with me directly through
the reply button, then we'll take it from there. Ciao, Maurizio, ,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
I am in Greenville SC which is 60 miles from there. Respond through
the website to me personally so that we can get in touch. Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1599: I had a backsplash
of Calico Multi Slate installed in the kitchen, and lots of grout
was left in the uneven parts of the tile, any suggestions for
removing it? Ried, March 27. Reply |
| R1:
There are various cleaning solutions sold through your tile store.
Don't start with a strong acid solution first. Recognize the bulk
of the work will be tedious. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1598: I am in the
process of finding an installer for granite counter tops in my kitchen.
Instead of asking questions after installing, what should I be looking
for from the supplier as far as factory applied sealers, maintenance,
density of stone, any particular colors that are better against staining/wear
and tear? Also I see your name in recommendations as a supplier of
sealers, can you give me more info on your business? Thanks, Eric,
March 27. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eric: Are you talking to me? Well, it doesn't matter. You may
want to read the latest issue of my ROCKING THE BOAT COLUMN (see side
bar). It's just the right one for you! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1597: Hi I learnt a
lot from your column about granite, but one thing I wanted to know
is that - is it easy to clean granite or Corian counter tops which
have been stained with turmeric or oil? Which is better in this
respect - granite or Corian? I have to decide soon since I am
having a home built and the builder is giving Corian as the standard
and granite as the upgrade. Thanks a lot, Indira, March 26. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Indira: Same as above. Read my latest issue of my "ROCKING THE
BOAT" column (see side bar). Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
The absorption of Corian is not bad. Its ability to be stained is
high though. The answer for both is it depends on the color you choose.
Try the absorption (lemon juice test to test the granite). As a natural
stone site we will have a bias in that direction however. Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1596: We're looking
into a countertop for an island. Approximately 50 sq.
ft. granite, we were told would cost us about $1400.00 to $1500.00
installed. We can't spend this much money. Is there something
you can recommend? We would like one solid surface that's
very durable. Do you know anything about Caesar Stone? Durability,
upkeep? Would appreciate your advice. Pam, March 26. Reply |
R1:
Dear Pam: Ceasar stone is a very enjoyable material, but for all I
know is not much cheaper than natural granite (at least not here in
NE of the US). Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1595: I am doing a
report on Granite for my fifth grade science class. I can find a lot
of good things on Granite. But I can not find the disadvantages
of Granite. Could you help me please. Thank you! Kenny, March
26. Reply |
R3:
Hi Kenny: I bet you never expected for your question to create an
issue where you had to examine a paradigm. This is actually quite
exciting and perhaps maybe this will have you embark a career as a
scientist.
Thus far you have been given two concepts when you asked what is negative
about granite.
Now lets add some parameters to the question. What do you mean when
you ask what is negative about granite? There is a concept called
context. This is what determines the meaning of a word. For instance,
Maurizio talked about "granite" not have a specific meaning in the
mercantile sense of making countertop or wall products from it. The
negative here has nothing to do with granite it pertains to many other
rock formations being included in the generic term granite. Quite
fascinating if you think about it. The question we would ask Maurizio
in this context is: Are all the other stones called granite inferior
to actual granite? His answer would then be a qualified, "it depends".
Many of the stone formations are superior to actual granite and many
are inferior to actual granite from the perspective of absorbency.
Aha!! Weakness #1 Granite is absorbent. So in many settings granite
may need to have some impregnator applied or be deemed unsuitable
for the application. This brings us back to the context . Namely,
what applications or settings granite should be used in.
Weakness # 2 Granite does not have flexural strength. Whoa!! This
means that if you need to have a material flex and bend to some sort
of dynamic stress granite is not your product. Once again context.
What application should granite be used for. Clearly it needs to be
used in specific settings with specific criteria.
Weakness #3 Granite is hard to work with or transform into something.
Bryan refers to the fact that the ability to cut, shape and polish
granite as opposed to other products is much more difficult. This,
in this context, is bad, yet, in another context, it may be good.
Misinformation #1 As a scientist we have to evaluate all information
given to us. Bryan brings up Radon. So what is that? It is the colorless,
radioactive, inert gaseous element formed by the radioactive decay
of radium. So what does that have to do with granite? Well, radium
has been found in granite foundations (subsoil) all over the world.
Because it contains the word radioactive it scares people. However,
in many disciplines such as radiotherapy and research it is helpful.
Now in the context of a granite sitting around Bryan implies that
it is dangerous. Here is where you do your research. The danger he
speaks of comes from a minute possibility that you would be in the
subterranean basement with no ventilation and you would live there.
Well, I know that I would not live in such a setting and practically
no one else does. When we review the details Bryan asks us to, we
start to understand the paradigm taking place. There is an industry
around radon fear. There are people who perpetuate this fear. Even
though granite used in the setting of a countertop or wall would never
expose us to the hazard Bryan referred to, we still have a vestige
of fear remaining. Furthermore, we find that the hazard Bryan refers
to needs to have many other things to happen before it could even
potentially be a hazard. Namely, no ventilation, quite a lot of radium
in the soil, and time (lots and lots of it) for the radium to decay.
I hope this helped, Kenny, Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R2:
Hi Kenny: Yes it's true most granites used in the stone industry are
not true granites, but with such a proliferation of obscure names
for igneous rocks, it is usual practice in the industry to call them
all granite. Disadvantages, try working it for starters. Also it's
weight and wait for comments, but to my mind just never seems to match
the luster and delicate color tones found in many marbles (color to
those of you in the US) . It also emits radon, a radioactive gas.
Normally in such small amounts that it poses no problem. However there
have been studies in Aberdeen Scotland (known as the granite city)
into the possible health effects of so much granite in one area. Check
out the British Geological Survey web site. Bryan, UK. |
R1:
Dear Kenny: A very quick answer. The disadvantages of "granite" are
that there's not even a hint of a serious classification of the different
stones trade as granite (approximately 98% of which are not granite),
and, consequently, the virtually complete ignorance about stone displayed
by the industry authorities and operators.
No matter how you slice it, ignorance ultimately spells: T-R-O-U-B-L-E
all the time! And that, in my book, is a big disadvantage right there!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1594: We just installed
porcelain tile and the grout got in to the grooves of the tile.
How can this be removed? We already tried "haze cleaner", but
this did not help. Thanks! Resig. March 26. Reply |
| A 1593: I'm installing
a marble shower. I'd like to know the pricing and how-to-order
information on the German soap product mentioned. Thanks.
Tim, March 26. Reply |
R1:
Dear Tim: About pricing it much depends on the geographical area where
you reside, and on how good is the contractor. For some mysterious
reason good contractors have the nasty habit to charge more!!
Now, what are you seeking that German Soap for? To clean your shower
stall from soap deposit? ... Wow, some logic, huh!! Stone soap in
general (German or otherwise) is a (wrong) cleaner sold (thank goodness
by a minority of manufacturers) for polished marble floors. In fact
-- like any other soap -- it leaves fatty deposit on the floor, which,
eventually, will have to be stripped off with a soap scum remover
(which, if ask me, it a product that makes much more sense for your
shower stall!)
No matter how good it is per se, no screw-driver will hever help you
at driving home a nail!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1592: What is the
easiest way to remove the patina on a basalt column? Grinding?
Sandblasting? Or something else? Does anyone have experience with
this? Thanks, Calvin. March 26 Reply |
| R1:
Dear Calvin: No, I don't have any experience at removing a natural
patina from a stone surface, nor I care to achieve it. Actually I
am very proud not to have it!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
A 1591: Should I get
"honed" or "satin" finish on my marble countertops? Dave,
March 25. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dave: Honed or satin are different degrees of the same stuff.
Get the one you like the most. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1590: Need information,
honed versus satin marble finish. Dave, March 25. Reply |
A 1589: I'm looking for
information on a type of brown sandstone commonly known
as "Tennessee Craborchard". Where is this stone quarried,
what are its characteristics, uses, availability, etc.? Thanks in
advance. Doug, March 25. Reply |
| R1:
Doug. Tennessee Crab Orchard is quarried in Tennessee, and is available
here in Texas through stone yards in several major cities, so I assume
the same would be true for its availability in other states also.
It is quite pricey here, but then there are freight costs to consider.
It is a rather dense and hard stone, usually with a nice range of
color in the brown to yellow to red range, and comes in large flags
for patio use, and a chopped (split face) stone with face heights
up to 6 inches or so for use in retaining walls and building veneers.
Its a pretty stone, but it is expensive compared to the stone we have
to choose from locally. JVC, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1588: I just read your
response re the use of Pietra Cardosa Sandstone for kitchen countertops.
Do I understand correctly that you are saying that this material will
not hold up as well as granite because it will "etch" more seriously?
I am not planning to polish this stone, but to leave it "natural"
with just a sealer. I hope that it will "age" nicely and pick up it's
own patina and character over the years. Would you change your mind/recommendations
in this case?
I have read elsewhere (in several magazines and elsewhere on the internet)
that this particular form of Pietra sandstone is "tougher" than granite,
that is, more forgiving as to stains and scratches. Can you give me
more info.? Thanks so much. Jami, March 25. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jamy: To the best of my knowledge Pietra Cardosa does not etch
(it's a 100% silicate rock). It's porous, all right, but certain "granites"
are much more porous than that. If you don't mind the "changes" of
appearance the stone will go through as it ages (most American do
seem to mind!), then you should be all right, after proper sealing.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1587: We have purchased
12"x12" granite stone tiles to apply over our existing built up laminate
countertop. What preparation do we need to do on the existing
countertop to apply the granite stone? What is the installation
process to apply the granite stone. What adhesive do you recommend?
Our kitchen countertop is L shaped. We have just purchased a new slide
in range to replace our cook-top (which we will have to cut out) and
will be
purchasing an overlay sink. Please advise to us "do-it yourselfer's".
Thanks, Lori, March 25. Reply |
A 1586: After installation
of a 7000 dollar granite countertop which I love, I have
noticed a hairline crack coming from an inside corner. It goes
through thickness of slab, inch and quarter, and travels about one
foot into slab. After coming to house to view and the company rep
was initially very cooperative about finding solution and 'making
us happy' but then never returned our phone calls. After repeated
requests to come to terms their only offer was to put on an epoxy
and polish, leaving us with damaged merchandise that might further
crack. My first choice would be to remove piece, approx two by eight
but it is seamed in and they said it was not possible and might break
remaining pieces. They also didn't know if they had any matching granite.
So our only recourse would be a financial compromise. What would be
fair, since it is about one third of entire job we felt one third
back was a fair offer. We are taking the risk in the future it will
split apart and need considerable repair. Also we have to 'baby' the
area, next to stove making sure nothing of any weight is put on it
- forever. So my questions are - what is fair settlement and if a
piece is seamed in is it permanent and are you not able to remove
and replace?
Thanks for your advice, Mclab, March 25. Reply |
| R2:
Depending of the type of granite, fishers and cracks are sometimes
the nature of the product, thus being natural. If you chose a specific
material with the understanding of it's natural characteristics, then
I feel you should compromise with the fabricator. Maybe have the understanding
if this crack opens up more that the fabricator is responsible for
taking the necessary steps to fix it on sight. If you chose a material
that does not have these characteristics, then the fabricator should
replace the specific piece if they have a matching dye lot, otherwise
replace the entire kitchen with a new material dye lot. Regards Rob,
USA. |
R1:
Dear Mclab: I don't want to go into the "fair settlement" thing. The
only thing I can tell you is that removing a part of the countertop
-- especially if it's not sandwiched in between two other sections
-- is not a problem at all. Finding matching granite could be, though.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1585: Wow
- what a lot of info this site provides.
Commentary on the different granites leads me to double check on Madura
Gold. As a kitchen counter top will it be tough and appropriate.
Second question - I have a lovely soapstone sink in a workroom - what
do I oil it with to keep its color? Jackie, March 24. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jackie: As far as your "granite" counter top goes, I'd like to
encourage you at reading my latest issue of my "ROCKING THE BOAT"
column (see side bar.) For your soapstone top you need to use mineral
oil. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1584: I have a
slate floor that is about 50 years old and am interested in procedures
or products that we can use to restore them. They are in fairly
good shape but probably have many coats of wax etc. that make them
look old. We are planning to refinish the adjacent hardwood floors
and thought that sanding the slate might also make sense. Thanks!
Jay, March 24. Reply |
| A 1583: A customer came
in and told me that he had granite counter tops installed
into his home. The installer told him that he would never have to
seal his counter top. I have never heard of this, of a type of
polish that can be placed on the counter so that no sealing would
be needed. Was this guy telling the truth? Can you give me any
information concerning this "polish" surface. Corie, March 24. Reply |
R1:
Dear Corie: There a "granites" that need to be sealed, then there
are other "granites" that don't. There's no topical "polish" on polished
stone (granite or otherwise). It all depends on the natural density
of the stone.
I'd like to encourage you to read my latest issue of my "ROCKING THE
BOAT" column (see side bar.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1582: I recently had
Blue Wave Granite installed in my kitchen. Upon installation
there were no apparent fissures or cracks. Four months later many,
many cracks are appearing, why is this occurring? Thank you, Monica,
March 23. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Monica: Installation failure. Sorry. I hope I'm dead wrong, but
you're gonna have a hard time to get the problem rectified the whole
countertop replaced, that is! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1581: I have installed
a black slate hearth on a fireplace. I cleaned the slate with stone
cleaner, tried soap and water, and plain water. Then it was sealed
with stone sealer. But there is still some discoloration in the
slate (some gray areas). The client would like the hearth to be
a consistent shade. Can anything be done to correct this since it
has been sealed. Can stone sealer be tinted with some type of dye
before applying another coat? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
George, March 23. Reply |
| R1:
Dear George: Now that you've applied an impregnator (which is not
supposed to be applied on black slate to begin with), you will have
a hard time to rectify the situation. I'd suggest you strip the sealer
off (thank goodness is couldn't go inside the stone) by using a paint
stripper based on Methylene Chloride. After that, you can apply a
so called Stone Color Enhancer. In the old days black slate was treated
with mineral oil (Baby oil will do just fine!), but then, there weren't
so many salesmen back then!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1580: I am planning
to open a cemetery monument business and need any info you may
have concerning what engraving equipment and software I will need.
I also need to find the best company to buy the granite from. Tannya,
March 22. Reply |
| R1:
Hi Tanya, I can help with both your queries - Where are you from please?
... Harry, Australia. |
| A 1579: What can you
tell me about the quality (reputation) and care (and anything
else you know) of "Tiger Skin" granite? I saw this and had to
have it for my kitchen. Gina, March 22. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Gina, your taste is excellent for TIGER SKIN is beautiful stone.
This gneiss from India is hard, resistant material. Lost of lustre
can be in black streaks with mica accumulation, but it is feature
of this stone type. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Dear Gina: I've heard of it, but never saw it (or maybe I did, under
another name!). The only advice I can give you is to use my little
"lemon juice test" (see side bar), then draw your own conclusions.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1578 a: Good Morning!
I would appreciate your help immensely. We have a sandstone kitchen,
laundry and bathroom floor. When we moved in our house we sealed the
floors but the sealant did not work. The kitchen especially needs
cleaning as any oil or stain goes right into the sandstone. We have
been told that before resealing we can clean the sandstone with chlorine
or bleach and this will fix the stains. Is this okay to do and can
you recommend a sealant that WILL WORK and has not to be re applied
every 2 years. The people we got the the sealant from are unable to
be contacted now. Your help would be very appreciated.
I am hoping for a simple answer or perhaps an old time solution
that may have been used in ancient times for sealing Sandstone.
We built our own home and have recorded it. There may be some information
there that you can share with others. Trijntje, Australia, March 21.
Reply |
R2:
Dear Trijntje: It may come as a shock to you, but up until 15 years
ago or so, nobody ever sealed any stone with anything. Nobody ever
used sandstone as flooring material in a kitchen, either!
To remove oily stains you need to poultice them with acetone, or other
mineral solvent (bleach won't do the first thing about oil). If you
wish, I would email you my stain removal guidelines. Just ask for
it by hitting the reply button.
Finally, as far as the sealer is concerned, you may want to try several
options available on the market. Just leave my own out of the picture,
please! You may want to consider using boiled lynseed oil: two or
three applications (24 hours in between) and see what happen. It will
darken the stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
R1:
In really ancient times sandstone was not sealed. It is so absorptive
that I think sealing it is a waste of time and money. As to Chlorine
bleach I think it is too caustic for a soft material like sandstone.
I would suggest a poultice or sanding the floor in the area of the
stain. Try waxing the floor so that the sacrificial coating (wax)
is compromised first.
Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1578: Need information
on how to install marble tile for a fireplace surround and hearth.
Jim, March 22. Reply |
| R1:
Jim, There are manuals and books that will help you install the marble.
Buy one! or hire a professional tile installer with references to
do it for you. Generally though you should decide how wide the grout
joints will be. See how flat and plumb everything is and then use
a white thin set with additive instead of water to install it. Good
Luck Steven, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
|
A 1577: I wish to
cover an area around a swimming-pool's deck with loose stones.
These stones must be barefoot friendly (wet bare feet at that).
What type and size of loose stone would work for this project. Thanks.
Noah, March 21. Reply
|
| R1:
Noah, Whoa! Loose stones? Could you please elaborate on why you want
something loose around a wet and potential slippery area? Regards,
Steven, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1576: We are a farm
with the intendance of planting nursery stock. But first, we will
be excavating some areas of sand stone. We feel this stone could be
sold in the constriction Industry, also in the landscape industry.
For siding, walls walk way.. etc. The stone can be pick by hand from
a top the ground and stacked to pallets. There are some out crops
of stone, along the hill sides. We need to know everything, so please
send us any and all information from testing to marketing to equipment.
Any help that you could give or send or direct us to, would be
great. As we just bought the farm the stone came with it. We have
been told that we have several 100, thousand ton of this stone. Thank
you, Shawn. March 21. Reply |
| R2:
Shawn. The first thing you need to do is hire an expert quarryman
to come in and evaluate your site, and the stone. Surface collecting
is one thing, but quarrying ledges from hill sides is quite another,
and can be a very costly venture. Make sure the stone is worth quarrying,
and make sure that there is a market for it. Good luck, JVC, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
To start with you need to invest some money in determining the basic
physical properties of the stone so you can work out what it can be
used for and its value as a deposit. Basic properties such as water
absorption, bulk density, compressive strength, modulus of rupture
(bending strength) and durability are a good place to start. Of course
you will also need to find out if anyone will buy it - get some small
slabs cut and find out if people like the colour and general appearance.
The stone industry is a fashion industry as well so some stone can
be popular one day and out of favour the next. If you are in the Australasian
region I am able to assist you with these points, please contact me
through this site. Jim, Australia, Expert Panelist, Reply |
A 1575: My name is Michelle
& I am an interior decoration student in Sydney, Australia.
I have been asked to research pebbles. for this research I need
to find out - history, properties, UV light effect, slip resistance,
effect from oils, effect from acids etc.,
strength, maintenance, fire resistance. I need all this information
ASAP as I have other tasks to complete. Your help would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you. March 21. Reply |
| R1:
Michelle, LOL there are so many different types of pebbles that you
basically can't get a response. You need to narrow your research down
to specific types of pebbles with specific properties first. Write
back for help when you have narrowed your request down. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1574: I am looking
at Jupurana Gold granite slabs for a kitchen countertop. Can any
one comment on its porosity and general suitability for this usage
vs other "granites". John. March 21. Reply |
| R2:
Dear John: Yes, I can. Despite what some sale man will try to say
to you, DON'T. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Yes, It is more porous and less suitable for active kitchens where
spills are not cleaned as soon as they happen. In order to find the
stone that suits you assess your lifestyle and then select colors.
Expect to do maintenance. Accept the materials characteristics as
fundamentals that won't change. Get care and maintenance guidelines
when you purchase the countertops. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1573: We have a difficulty
on identfying a kind of travertine...Some people says that
it is trabeige! (We do not know what is trabeige). The followings
is the specification of the travertine.
3 Moh's----54,33
Shore Hardness Index----2,6gr/cm3
Unit volume weight----2,64gr/cm3
Specific gravity----%61
Water abs.---- 1,59%
Virtual porosity---- 1,52%
porosity----98,48%
Fullness----127,70kg/cm2
Max. bending strength----816,52kg/cm2
Uniaxial Compressive Strength after freezing----5,2 kgf.cm/cm3
impact test----29,44cm3/50cm2
Abrasion strength by friction----2,57x10(-6)
Coefficient of thermal expansion1/'C-----------
Chemicals % ::: 0,50
SiO2--0,07
Fe2O3---53,75
CaO--1,6
MgO--43,74
Ignition Loss
What is the correct rock type and commercial name of this product...And
what is advantages / disadvantages of the product... Thanks Gungor.
March 21. Reply |
| R1:
The specifications look like beige travertine (Italian). Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1572: Please email
info on natural dolomite limestone or sandstone curbing. Thanks.
Giarrizzo. March 21. Reply |
| A 1571: I just had absolute
granite installed in my countertop for the kitchen. The installer
did not seal it immediately and now we have water glass ring marks
that lighten the surface all over the place. I've tried to pull it
out with stone poultice (placed on granite for 48 hours with wax paper
on solution). It did not help one bit. I am at a loss. Can you
offer advice as to how to remove these ring marks? Ben, March
21. Reply |
| R3:
Hi Ben, Guess
what I was doing last week? Removing cup rings from black granite.
Not cheap stuff but expensive, supposedly top quality First Belfast
Black. They looked like water marks I have seen in porous stones.
This appeared to be confirmed when I noticed the area of worktop above
the boiler was free of marks. Just in case I tried the old poultice
solutions, to no avail. Taking the lead from the wood workers on cup
marks on furniture I applied a warm smoothing iron over clean paper
and proceeded to iron the surface. This after many hours patience
removed almost all of it, confirming the presence of moisture under
the surface. A first for me in dense granite like this. Nothing I
tried could remove the remainder. I could only conclude it was lime
or the likes, dissolved by and now left behind by the water. Looking
across the surface of the granite carefully I could see micro pits
in the problem areas. This is not unusual but in this case I can only
suppose that there is enough absorption to create these marks. Creating
the problem on a test piece the only way I could cover the residue
was by (close your eyes anyone of a nervous disposition) by rubbing
a minute quantity of black permanent ink over the surface. This was
absorbed within minutes I then scoured off the remainder leaving the
granite looking as good as the day it arrived and I am sure the ink
left trapped in the fissures of the stone. One of those times in this
business that I am reminded that I am dealing with natural material
and sometimes you can come across problems often unique to the particular
stone you are working on and there is often no right answer. Anyway
For the first time in my career, after much maligning sealers it looks
like I am going to have to use a sealer. probably just a hard stopping
wax unless anyone has any better ideas. No smart answers saying replace
all the stone. I do not have the $4000 spare or the time or even a
customer who understands. Bryan, UK |
R2:
Dear Ben: I give you three options, starting from the least probable:
1. Your black "granite" is a "mut" stone, which means that it contains
a certain percentage of calcite (I experienced something like that
only once, with a stone that nobody knew where it was coming from).
If this is the case, nothing can be done. To find out, spill some
lemon juice on an unsealed piece of scrap, let it sit for a few minutes,
wipe it dry, then see what happened.
2. Your "black" "granite" is not really black. Certain slab manufacturers
"doctor" certain "black" "granite" (most of the times, black Zimbabwe)
by applying a black topical makeup, to make it more "sellable". Any
acidic substance will attack and remove such makeup. Usually the fabricator
is unaware of that, though ultimately responsible. To find that out,
rub your countertop with acetone using a white rag and see what happens.
If that's the case, then strip all the makeup off, accept the real
color of the stone, and live happily thereafter.
3. Your fabricator did seal the stone. Black "granite" (either a Gabbro
or a Dolerite or an Anorthosite) is extremely dense and doesn't need
to be sealed. The sealer, in fact, will not be absorbed by the stone
and a little residue film -- though not visible -- will be lingering
on the surface and get damaged by acidic spill (orange juice, lemonade,
lemon juice, sodas, drinks salad dressing, tomato sauce, vinegar,
etc.) If this the case, have the fabricator remove the stupid sealer
that had no business being there in the first place, and live happily
etc. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Ben, We need to know more information. What type of stone is it? Did
you mean to say wax paper? Let me know, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1570: I am installing
tumble marble as a backsplash. I will be applying sanded grout before
sealing. If I wait 24 hours, will a cleaner help remove the grout
haze without affecting the grout? Otherwise, what should I do to
avoid grout haze? I later intend to use color enhancer. Thanks
for your help. Rodolfo, March 21. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rodolfo: Don't you worry about damaging grout while cleaning
the film residue off the stone surface. Remember though, if you want
to color enhance your tumbled marble you have to apply the color enhancer
BEFORE sealing, not after. If you seal first, the sealer will inhibit
the enhancer from being absorbed by the stone. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1569: I want to
go into the Marble and other stone floor cleaning business. How
can I learn this skill, and where do I go to learn it? I've read often
that Marble and other stone floor cleaning is very profitable. Thank
you, Jesse. March 21. Reply |
R1:
Dear Jesse: Yes, the trade is very profitable indeed. Being a surgeon
is very profitable, too! Why don't you become a surgeon? Marble "cleaning"
(as you call it) it's easier all right, but not THAT easy, believe
you me. Nobody pays top dollars for an easy trade!!
Stone restoration / refinishing is the very pinnacle of all activities
related to stone. You can't be just so-so. Either you're good, or
you're not. To be good you have to get to the point -- among other
things -- to be able to recognize all the different marbles available,
and know what to do with each one of them, because stone refinishing
is way far from being a standard procedure.
It makes sense. You don't need to know stone, finished in some mysterious
way, in some far off factory, if you just buy and sell it. You don't
need to know stone, finished in some mysterious way in some far away
factory if you just install it. You don't need to know stone finished
in some .. etc. if you only cut it into shape and learn how to polish
its edges (a standard procedure, totally different from surface polishing).
But when it comes to TREAT stone, which is what stone restoration
/ refinishing is all about, then either you know stone or you get
out of the way. As simple as that. That said, if I didn't scare you
off, I do do training. Contact me through the reply button and we'll
talk about it. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist |
| A 1568: I would like
to know. If any one could tell me the safest way to clean the old
grave stones. If could let me know. Thanks Ellen, March 21. Reply |
| R3:
Hi! Your first thought must be. Why do I wish to clean this old headstone,
have I considered the character and patina that has probably taken
years to accumulate. Then if you wish to reverse nature. First, using
clean water, dampen the entire stone gently without disturbing the
dirt. Once the stone has been saturated, use plenty of clean water
and scrub the surface lightly and carefully with a natural bristle
brush just hard enough to lift the surface soiling. Any honest dirt
that remains should be left. Cover the stone with a paper poultice
and allow to dry completely, this will ensure that dissolved particles
are deposited in the paper and not returned the surface of the stone.
OR !!! If you are unsure or the headstone is of particular emotional
or historic importance please employ a qualified conservationist.
Roy, UK. |
| R2:
Dear Ellen. Probably the most effective way to clean up any stone
that has turned black from weathering is to use bleach. The discolorization
is due to the growth of alga and fungus (quite natural) and the bleach
will kill the growth, and lighten the stone. Just spray it on with
a low pressure garden sprayer, or a squirt bottle, and let it do its
thing. If the stone has been weathered for a long time, you will find
that even though the gray/black discolor disappears, there will be
a surface layer which is a case hardening due to the result of chemical
reactions between the stone and the organisms that have been growing
on it. A mild ph neutral stone soap and soft scrub brush will also
help. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist. |
R1:
Biological growths on head stones can be
killed with a strong solution of bleach or household disinfectant.
Apply the solution to the growths by spray bottle or brush and leave
for at least a few days. Upon your return you can attempt cleaning
by using a warm water and a mild detergent. As long as the stone is
not friable, cleaning can be carried out with a soft nylon brush.
After the initial clean, rinse it with clean water and let it dry
and evaluate your progress. If the stone is a marble or similar calcite
based stone, there are likely to be black crusts left on the stone
formed by the simultaneous deposition of grime and gypsum (hydrated
calcium sulphate). These are hard to remove and can affect the longer
term durability of the stone. If you want to remove this gypsum crust,
you need to know that gypsum is more soluble in cold water than hot.
The best way to remove them is to spray the
surface with cold water, GENTLY scrub the surface with a soft nylon
brush, rinse and repeat and repeat again and again. Above all
remember slowly and gently does it! Regards, Jim, Australia,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1567: I
have been seeing some pictures of granite countertops with what appear
to be drainage grooves immediately beside the under mount sinks. I
assume that area would act like a drying space for wet pots, pans,
etc, allowing the water to drain back into the sink. I think I
understand the pros of this set up but what are the cons in such a
fabrication? Tom, March 21. Reply |
| R1:
It is expensive. Not all fabricators can do it. Regards, Steven, USA,
Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1566: Need help desperately-
we recently purchased one of the model apartments of a community.
The builder installed travertine tiles throughout the apartment. After
a few weeks of living in it some of the tiles that were filled
when installed are now brittling. What can be done to repair this
so that it will not happen again? The problem is that the builder
can not get any more tiles to replace the badly damaged ones. We also
found out (after purchase) that the unit was water damaged when the
sprinkler system failed. Could water be the cause of the brittling
now going on? Thanks Arnold. March 21. Reply |
| R11:
If the water is leaking under, you have a major problem which
cannot be repaired . Somehow, you have to change the tiles. Try to
take white cement, put it in water (a lot of water), put inside white
wood glue and beige powder color. Stir good and watery as is and put
on the tiles until absorbs and fills all the holes. After it gets
dry, clean good and take from the market a sealer and a polisher.
You will not face other problems. Dimitri, Greece. |
| R10:
Is necessary to receive some photos about this material to understand
the problem. Can be the filling process or the material used to fix
the tiles or something else. With the photos I can try, maybe to understand.
Italy. |
| R9:
WE ARE A PRODUCER TRAVERTINE, PLEASE TELL ME WHAT COLOR IS THE FILL.
IF FILL IS WHITE, IT ISN´T A FILL, IT IS NATURAL DUST IN THE TILE,
YOU MUST REMOVE THE DUST WITH SOME KNIFE, AND PUT WHITE CEMENT, WITH
SOME COLOR FOR CEMENT RED OXIDE & YELLOW, WITH THIS YOU MAKE A
TRAVERTINE COLOR, FILL WITH THE CEMENT JUST THE PORES AND WAIT FOR
DRY AN FINISH THE PROBLEM. GIM |
R8:
I am a manufacturer of tiles. Travertines specialty. I adopt all kind
of designs.
Please tell me your location. I work the high quality marbles and
travertines in Mexico, so I need you to tell me if you're interested
. Of course I own my own business, and that's why I am able to offer
better prices. Thanks. Kephren, Mexico. |
R7:
Hello, Without a site observation I can not dispense foolproof solutions.
However, the water immersion and subsequent drying can indeed cause
the condition you are describing.
The solution is somewhat tedious but will work. Hire a professional
restoration company to grind the floor. During the process they will
fill all spots not holding together properly. As with all things check
references and hire the best not the cheapest contractor. Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R6:
Dear brother, as you explained your problem in the internet, we prefer
to let the materials dry then start to fill the surface of materials.
The filling substance must be of very good quality or it will damage
the travertine again. Best regards, Haydar, Turkey. |
| R5:
Water quite often is a cause of damage to some stones. This is why
the water absorption rating is so very important. Another issue could
be , (depending on whether the water was allowed to soak) is that
perhaps water got under the tile and damaged the sub floor (If it
is wood) or the adhesive. I am not that familiar with the properties
of travertine but will try and find out. Debra, Canada. |
R4:
The problem faced by you is typical associated with travertine material.
This is happening as the tiles were not properly treated or water
proofed on the reverse before fixing the tiles. As a result water
gets absorbed into the travertine as it is porous and the filling
compound gets affected. The easy way out according to me is to pull
out the tiles and dry it out properly and apply a coating of waterproof
compound on the reverse of the tiles and also on the walls and re-fix
the same tiles. I guess this will take care of your situation.
Please note that this is from my personal experience and I do not
want to be held responsible if it does not work out for you or for
any damages suffered by you while trying this out. Good Luck, Ajay,
India. |
| R3:
What kind of travertine? Solina, Italy. |
| R2:
Dear Sir, The problem can be the material used, the stone. When the
block of the stone in question was cut in slabs and after in tiles
it can be damage, crush in instance. If can you send a photo maybe
I can have the material, if the quantify you need is few maybe I can
send it free to you. You will pay only the cost of transport. Regards,
Mcgeos, Brazil. |
| R1:
Dear Sir, Please be a little more spesific in what the problem is,
is the filling or is the tiles brittling and what Travertino is it.
Travertino is readely avalable from anywhere in the world. Alec, South
Africa. |
| A 1565: Maurizio, What
kind of flooring do you recommend for a kitchen? We were thinking
of hardwood at one point and travertine at another point. Now we're
considering regular tile. We would like the kitchen floor to be relatively
maintenance free but look nice. Weni, March 20. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Weni: You don't buy stone, you adopt it! If you're not ready
for this, then tiles are "your man"! Porcelain are my favorite (are
solid, through and through). What's more, if you like the look of
travertine (or marble), there are porcelain tiles that reproduce it
incredibly close. Check them out at your local tile distributor! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert panelist. |
| R1:
Maintenance free? None of them. For low maintenance, glazed ceramic
or hardwood. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert panelist. |
| A 1564: I need more
information about inlay table tops, such as how you make delivery,
how much delivery costs, insurance, how they are packaged, installation
recommendations, thickness, can they be used on walls and floors?
James, March 20, Reply |
| A 1563: I'm hoping
you can give me some insight on a problem I am having with my granite
countertop. I believe it is a common color called Baltic Brown. It's
not the greatest quality of granite that I have seen for it has a
lot of pits. My house is 2 years old and I have a hairline
crack along my kitchen sink (the front of it) it keeps growing.
I noticed it after about 9 months of living in the house.
It started out at an inch long and now has grown to 2 1/2 feet and
it is pitting! I have contacted the subcontracted who
put it in and he said there is no way the crack was there when he
put it in. My builder has asked me to gather some information
and that what has led me to you. I have never dropped anything heavy
on the counter or banged it. Sometimes the kids or I lean against
the sink while doing dishes. (FYI we are all of normal
weight!) I would greatly appreciate any advice you could
give me. Thanks again, Vicki, March 20. Reply |
| R4:
Dear Vicki: It's a tough call, my friend! You will need an expert
to check your situation out. Your only possible recourse is if the
expert finds out that there was no sufficient support under the stone
where it cracked. I also guess that it was not rodded, but that, unfortunately,
is only a recommendation, not a requirement. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
R3:
Have the builder come out and inspect the cabinet supports. The granite
is not adequately supported. As to who will pay to have it fixed is
any ones guess right now.
Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R2:
Please check if the construction which bears the countertop, if that
is not solid. Arja, Finland. |
R1:
We have received the piece of information regarding your problem with
the kitchen
sink. The material Baltic Brown used in the sink normally is very
strong and according to my personal experience of similar use for
over 20 years I have never had this type of problems.
Have you perhaps put a very hot sauce pan or similar on it without
any underneath protection? If this is the case then you should try
to stop further cracking with the use of "epossydic resin". First
you should try to get this type of resin from dealer/your contractor
and apply it on the crack and let it dry for at least a couple of
days. This should stop the development of the crack. Hoping you the
best with your work. Kristina, Finland. |
| Thanks
for your response, but to be clear the crack is in front of the sink,
there is only 3 inches, depth wise, of granite in front of the sink
and no room to set a hot pan on. Besides, I never set hot pans on
my granite. I cannot fix the crack with epossydic resin, for it is
2 and a 1/2 feet big now and growing. They tried that when is was
smaller, but it still grew and just looked like a filled crack. What
I am looking for is what you think could have caused this. I hope
you'll be able to take the time and respond again. Thanks Vicki |
Referring
to your message of Friday last. I have now discussed the matter with
our people here. However, they say that it is not possible to give
any answer as to what has caused the problem without seeing it with
their own eyes. Therefore the best would be to contact
a granite manufacturer who also do fixings of granite and marble slabs
in similar projects.
We are sorry but we cannot be of more help to you.
Wishing you the best for a Happy Easter time. With kindest regards,
Kristina. Finland. |
A 1562: I am considering
Avanza countertops for my newly remodeled kitchen. I am not a friend
of Granite - since the colors are not what I am looking for (white
with silver flecks). What kinds of things do I need to watch out for
and what kind of installation in terms of sealing should I request.
Question: I finally found a stone for my first floor that I LOVE foyer,
laundry, powder, kitchen, pad in front of patio door and border carpet
in lvg/dng. Issue - it's limestone and after reading information on
this board, it appears that limestone is porous and soft and could
cause problems in my home, especially kitchen and entrance foyer.
I'm single, and don't wear shoes in the house. However - I do entertain
and don't want to be overly concerned about spills. Please shed additional
light. I live in Chicago area and found my stone at Granite Gallery
- it is called Mediterranean Classic and I will be using 12 x 12 tiles.
March 20. Reply |
| R2:
Dear March 20: I'd love to help you, but I don't correspond with people
who don't even have the decency to tell their names. Ciao, Maurizio,
USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| R1:
Sorry never heard of it. Many companies private label their stones
to make identification difficult. I am sure you understand that this
is a stone industry site, not Avanza ask them how to take care of
it. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert
Panelist, |
| A 1561: Hi there, My
"friend" has installed Travertine countertops in my kitchen. I gather
now that maybe that wasn't the best decision. Anyway, what's done
is done I guess. Now it is up to me to seal and grout. How should
I proceed to prevent future stains, crumbs in the crevices, etc.?
Thanks for the advice, Liza, March 20. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Liza: Forget about "maybe"; it was NOT the right choice, period.
You're wrong when you say that what is done is done. You can always
get rid of it, After all it's only money, and it's surely less valuable
than your mind welfare! That said, you can seal it until you drop
with the "Sealall" sealer of the "Bestest" company, but you won't
be solving the first of the inherent problems you'll be facing. Sorry,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Eat out frequently. Regards, Steven, USA,
Expert Panelist, Reply |
| That
doesn't help very much. Liza. |
| A 1560: Not one guy has
mentioned the old fashioned (and proven) wire reinforced float? We
are and for generation hard surface contracting company. Does anyone
float any more? John, March 20. Reply |
| R1:
Yes, It is still done. But newer substrates and products are used
more frequently. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1559: IS SANDSTONE
OR FLAGSTONE FOUND IN OKLAHOMA ? ARE THEY THE SAME STONE? THANKS.
GWEN. March 20. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Gwen.. Sandstone is a geologic term describing a particular type
of stone, i.e.. a sedimentary stone composed primarily of sand (quartz)
sized grains. The amount and type of inter grain cementing materials
determines the density and relative hardness of the stone. Flagstone
is a descriptive term referring to stone that is relatively flat on
both surfaces with a uniform thickness that breaks into random shapes.
Any sedimentary stone can be a flagstone if it was deposited in thin,
distinct layers with a definite break in the deposition between the
layers. I have seen both sandstone, and siltstone flagging from OK.,
and limestone is often found as a flagstone type. JVC,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
They could be. Yes there is sandstone in Oklahoma. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1558: Recently, I came
across Marble Agglomerate tile that I liked for my flooring
in Kitchen and family area (all one room, ~400sq.ft). The name
of the one I liked is Perlato Royale. I know it's a mix of marble
chips and resin. Sounds good but is it good enough for flooring in
terms of taking care, high traffic area, sealing etc? does it
need anything special for installation? I have vinyl floor right
now. Another question: For my granite counter top I liked Uba
Duba and Emperador dark. Which is better? I haven't done lemon
test yet but would trust your advice. Do you have any names to refer
to us. I am in SF bay area. Thank you very much, Smita, March 20.
Reply |
R2:
Dear Smita: For starters, the only Perlato Royal I know of is not
manmade, but it's a natural stone (compact limestone traded as marble)
coming form Sicily, Italy. It's definitely a big NO-NO in a kitchen,
like all marbles and travertine. If it is a conglomerate marble (with
the same name) if would be just as bad.
Both "granites" you mention are very good choices. Neither one needs
to be sealed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
The agglomerate marble is OK. It will depend on the traffic and care
and maintenance you provide. As to the kitchen, Emperador Dark is
a Spanish braccited marble and not appropriate for a kitchen. Ipso
facto Ubatuba is the winner. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist.
Reply |
| A 1557: I saw the marble
Rojo Alicante and loved it. Now my builder tells me its
grade D and "no good". Please advise me with all that you know.
Its for my bathroom vanity tops. What should I do??? Thanks, Gina,
March 20, Reply |
| R2:
Use it if you like it. In a bathroom with proper fabrication and installation
it will be fine. When you get it learn how to care for it. Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert
Panelist. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gina, Rojo Alicante is beautiful to look at and stunning as a
wall tile. It's weaknesses are high traffic areas and exposure
to wet/dry cycles. The stone has stylolites (filled or partially
filled veins) that are often filled with sensitive clay type minerals
that may soften or deteriorate and leave gaps in the veins that need
to be filled. Being a calcite based stone, it is relatively
soft compared to granite so scratches and loss of polish are a greater
issue as well as susceptibility to stains from acidic solutions.
but still, it is lovely to look at!Regards Jim, Australia, Expert
Panelist. Reply |
| A 1556: Maurizio, I read
with interest your response to Jim in A 973 who needs to re-hone parts
of his travertine floor that was ground down. I am in a similar predicament
only my travertine floor has surface level scratches made by a
recent piano move. I had a floor guy (recommended by a flooring/tile
store) come by and he mentioned that the scratches cannot be repaired
as this required "large machinery" and that the only way to fix
the scratches were to replace the tiles or grind the entire tile surface
to a consistent non-honed finish. You mentioned the "medium hone"
finish of the travertine tiles can be restored by a professional marble
refinisher with the right equipment. I assume this equipment can be
brought to job sites to re-hone existing floors without removing the
tiles. Is this correct? Do you know anyone in San Diego county who
may be able to do this work? Thanks Kit, March 19, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kit: The saying of the floor guy as you report it to us is disconcerting,
to say the least. Of course scratches can be repaired by re-grinding
the tile down to the depth of the scratch. After that, you continue
by honing to the desired degree of finish (flat, low, medium, high).
This is something that every stone refinisher does every day of the
week and twice on Sundays! You don't need any "large machinery", either.
To repair a few scratches I always use a hand-held right-angle grinder
/ polisher.
No I do not know anybody in San Diego County. Just check the Yellow
Pages, make a round of phone calls and ask if they can remove scratches!!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1555: Hi. I am looking
for options to complete the top of a dining room table. We
have a wood base made of a beautiful red wood called Pardauk. The
original intent was to pour a concrete top to finish the table. However,
I am unable to find a contractor in Oregon who can supply a sample
that I like. The color I want is a very light gray color (to contrast
with the red wood). I want the texture of the top to be smooth and
polished, but not really shiny like some granite counter tops I've
seen. So, I guess my questions are 1.) What are options to get the
surface I'm looking for and that will be durable? 2.) Do you know
of any contractors in the Portland, Oregon area that can locate, cut
to fit, and make this work for me?, and 3.) Do you have an idea of
cost? The table is roughly 4X6 feet and there is a
3/4 inch of plywood inset right now (originally waiting for a 3 inch
concrete pour until I chickened out). So, we can add plywood to allow
for less thickness and weight if we go with stone or granite. Please
send any and all suggestions. Thanks, Dawn, March 19, Reply. |
| A 1554: Would like to
know the origin of Maple Leaf Red or Orange from Canada. Thank
you, Jaques. March 19. Reply |
| A 1553: I have a
bad seam where the bullnose edge is laminated. Can it be fixed.
March 18. Richard, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Richard: Most likely, NO. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1552: I have a countertop
that is white speckled. I have used bleach to clean it and now it
is yellowing. Can you help me to be able to get the yellowing
off? Thanks, Libby, March 18. Reply |
| A 1551: We are building
a log cabin in the northern part of lower Michigan. Someone told us
about the un gauged slate flooring, we have never heard of such flooring.
Would you please clue us in on just exactly this is and would it be
good choice for a foyer floor. Thank you. K.W. March 18. Reply |
| R1:
Unguaged means that the thickness can vary. To do this product you
need to mud set it. This could make the finish floor much thicker
than a guaged product. Regards, Steven, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1550: Hi. The house
we bought in 2001 had granite kitchen counters installed by original
owners in 1998. Name of granite is Uba Tuba. We have used a variety
of cleaners on the counter – the likes of Windex – and have now pared
down to soap and water but the counters just don’t look shiny anymore.
What can we do to clean the counters on a daily basis and restore
the shine it had when we first bought the house? Thanks. Denise,
March 18. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Denise: Think at how long you have to stay under the shower to
rinse the soap off your body. Then think how much water you need to
rinse the soap off your dishes. To clean a "granite" countertop with
dish soap you would need a hose to rinse it thoroughly!! Since, I'm
sure, you don't use a hose, then you have a little bit of soap film
accumulating every time you "clean" your top, hence, the 'hazy" look.
To take care of your problem you can't start with a good-quality daily
cleaner; you must first strip the surface of the stone from all the
"gunk" you have sitting on it. A soap film remover (formulated for
stone) is "your man". After that, you use a proper stone spray cleaner
(please, not a stone soap!!) on a daily basis and be happy ever after!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1549: Several of our
tiles have small "crater like" chips, less than 1/4 inch wide
and 1/8 inch deep. What do you recommend we do? If you recommend a
filler, what product(s) should we consider? Tiles are beautiful 18x18
inches and we want to enjoy them fro many years to come. Thanks, Bob,
USA, March 18. Reply |
A 1548: We are looking
at granite slabs for our kitchen and are becoming increasingly
frustrated by the process. We don't seem to be able to get a straight
answer from anyone. It is almost as if we have encountered some secret
society! Our original granite choice (Blue Lorenzo, Blue Volga and
who knows how many other names it goes by-) was estimated at $11,000
by the fabricator working with our kitchen designer. It was suggested
we choose a less expensive piece of granite, yet when I asked for
a cost breakdown of the estimate, I was told that the fabricators
did not break down the cost of the materials from the cost of the
actual fabrication. Furthermore, when I went to several of the wholesale
showrooms to look for "less expensive" pieces of granite, I was told
they could not give out granite prices and that we should contact
a fabricator.
Are fabrication costs linked to the specific granite slab? Do more
expensive granite slabs cost more to fabricate? Can you recommend
alternative granites to Blue Volga that are less expensive?
Am I unrealistic in asking for a cost breakdown? I know the granite
itself is not that pricey-that between landing on the dock and reaching
my countertop there are a number of mark ups-I just want to be sure
that the prices I am paying are legitimate and appropriate. Thanks
so much. Kathey, March 17, Reply |
| R5:
Kathy, I am a fabricator and shop owner, the feedback was all correct,
shop around and get at least three bids on your job. If you would
like a totally unbiased opinion then call my wife, she does our bids,
and she can look over your secret plans and give you feedback. Garnar,
USA. |
| R4:
Kathey: You have picked a beautiful but very expensive granite for
your countertops. As a fabricator I can tell you that the labor prices
do not vary by material, it is the material cost that varies. Granites
that I buy from China are a fraction of the cost of those that come
from Russia or Norway. It is not customary to provide a customer with
a breakdown of their estimate as this provides them the opportunity
to "shop" this around to other fabricators. As long as you are comparing
apples to apples when seeking bids then you should get good estimates.
I must admit that $11,000 sounds high but that could well be because
you are in a market that does not have enough fabricators to keep
them pricing competitively. There are many granites that may please
you and perhaps you should pick several and get prices on all. One
that you may like that is less expensive is Emerald Pearl. Another
option for less expensive material is to opt for 2cm instead of 3cm.
It is generally about 30% cheaper. Good luck. Lynn, USA, Expert Panelist. |
R3:
Dear Kathey: Welcome to the "secret society" of the stone industry!
Nobody can force your fabricator to disclose how much is their calculation
for the cost of the "granite", but, in my own experience as a fabricator,
Blue Volga (an anorthosite, excellent choice) is more expensive
than average (demand & supply, as always), but it should not add
more than an extra $10 a square foot. But, then, it's a free country!!
...
The other side of the coin to the "free country" thing is that you're
free to say good bye to your current fabricator and go somewhere else.
Many tradesman are only arrogant until they realize that they are
going to lose the deal!
Other Anorthosites (when top-notch quality) are not much less expensive
than Blue Volga.
Shop around, man, shop around! Just tell your kitchen designer, in
non uncertain terms, that you're not happy with the attitude of the
fabricator and that you WILL consider someone else, period. What do
you think is going to happen? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| R2:
From what I understand prices of granite depend greatly on shipping.
ex. India, Brazil, Canada, etc. Marmar, USA. |
| R1:
Kathey, You are frustrated. It is not a matter of multiple mark ups.
It is a matter of Volga Blue has a lot of pits and fractures. It is
sometimes difficult to fabricate. In the type of blue you have selected
there are not any less expensive alternatives. Regards, Steven, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1547: I am wanting
to know the materials used in making synthetic, or man-made stones.
Can you help me find this information. Would appreciate any help you
can give. Thanks Dennis, USA, March 17. Reply |
| R1:
Good old fashioned concrete. Regards, Steven,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1546: I want to
start business of marble/onyx. I want to create my own designs.
I want to see my designs in marble /onyx. I need guidance about
this business. I don't know much about the charm in this business.
I am from Software Industry. I want to transform my deigns into marble
/onyx. March 17. Reply |
A 1545: I have a
granite countertop in my bathroom, and some type of substance has
made 3 dark spots. It looks like something, which I thought was
liquid soap, got on it, and by the time we cleaned it, it was too
late.
I have used ORECK Stone Clear Top cleaner, and have always had good
luck with it, however, this oil/liquid/whatever it was remains dark.
The counter is mostly dark gray, and although it darkens when it gets
wet from water, it always dries normally and equally. Can you recommend
a cleaner or something I can try for these spots? Thanks! Jeffrey,
March 17. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Jeffrey: No topical cleaner, no matter how good (not even mine!!!)
could help you. The only thing you can do is to poultice the stain
out, then have your top professionally sealed with a good quality
stone impregnator. Should you be interested at receiving our free
guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installations, hit
the reply button at the end of my answer and ask for it. I'll be glad
to E-mail them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
You need to poultice the spots. Take some paper towels, soak them
in acetone, the put them over the spots. Now cover with plastic wrap.
Wait 24 hrs. take off and let air dry. This may take multiple attempts.
After the spots are gone impregnate your countertops once a day for
5-6 days or at least until the impregnator stops absorbing in. Good
luck Steven, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1544: I have outside
limestone stone and have used many stone sealers, mainly for some
gloss for appearance, but nothing that I use has lasted more that
3 or 4 months, Does anyone know of a stone sealer that will last
for a year or hopefully even longer?? Nan. March 15. Reply |
R2:
Hi! I don't know what type of Limestone you have, but I know that
the surface of any stone will begin to break down when exposed to
natural sun light and weather. Most good building lime and sand stones
take on a natural grainy texture that will erode up to 1mm every five/ten
years or so. Fossils generally survive a little longer, true marbles
will hold a satin shine for a few months in a good external environment
and granites will shine for years. Best allow your stone to look like
stone and enjoy the money you saved on sealers.
Roy UK. |
| R1:
Dear Nan: Not me!!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1543: I found an
exceptional source for Muskoka Granite - large chunks of stone
in the 2-8 ton sizes - the quarry cannot easily process this material
into road granular - and opt for the smaller tailings after dynamiting.
My question is there a market for Muskoka Granite - I have
used this product for numerous landscape applications and often draw
this material to my yard and used wedges / feathers to make steps
for clients. Colours are: deep black with a fleck - dark red - flat
black - have pictures shapes are: angular chunks dynamited from the
bank - sometime contain invisible hairline cracks. Ian, March 15.
Reply |
| A 1542: My husband and
I live on 8 acres and about 3 of those acres is filled with sandstone.
We believe the previous owner tried to quarry this sandstone
and now my husband is interested in it, but has no clue of what is
involved. My husband wants to use the sandstone as some kind of foundation.
Could you please give us an idea or some one to contact for more information
on how to quarry sandstone. Susan, March 15. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan.. You are asking for a lot of information which would be
impossible to dispense in a forum of this nature. There are so many
considerations involved in opening a quarry, or reworking an existing
quarry. It would be best if you could visit a working quarry in your
area to get an idea of what is involved. Then have a qualified stone
person visit your site to assess its potential. If you are wanting
to quarry out a small amount of stone for your own use, it probably
can be done with only a small investment in tools and equipment, but
a large labor investment. If you hope to commercially quarry the stone,
you will need to reach deep into your (or someone's) pockets. Good
luck, JVC, USA, Expert Panelist. |
A 1541: Maurizio, I was
reading through some of the Q&A polishing forum this morning and
was both amused and heartened by your responses to people seeking
an 'easy' solution to their polishing problems. As a professional
gem-cutter I share your sense of frustration with the faulty perceptions
entertained by many people regarding the art of stone finishing. I
am often asked by PROFESSIONAL JEWELERS to "buff" out chips and percussion
fractures from FACETED stones and of course to do it very, very cheaply.
The concept of sequential lapping etc. is quite foreign to professionals
and lay-persons alike. Over the years I have become less and less
diplomatic with those who ask the impossible. Your forthright cut-to-the
chase answers are just what are needed to dispell the many 'quick-fix'
myths out there. Keep up the good work. You are providing a MUCH needed
breath of fresh air to a subject hitherto cloaked in mystery.
Although I earn my living working with very small stones I have a
great interest in the working of the 'big stuff'. This note does not
require an answer but if you have any lists of resources etc.
that you commonly use to help educate the ignorant about your industry......I
would be greatly interested.......being woefully ignorant myself.
Will, March 15. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Will: Many, many thanks for your kind and heartfelt words. I'd
love to answer your question, but to be honest with you I don't quite
understand the essence of your question. Please, do correspond directly
with me through the reply button below, and we'll try to clarify the
subject. I look forward to hearing from you. Ciao, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1540: I have just acquired
a large piece of Pennsylvania Bluestone that I want to use for
a dining room table top. I guess the material is a kind of sandstone,
they call it a slate down there. What should I seal it with, so that
it will be practical and will not show stains? Thanks Lauren, March
15. Reply |
| A 1539: Need information
about how to make a patio of sandstone, and how to care for it.
Thx/Paivi. March 14. Reply |
| A 1538: We have a slab
of Cardoso stone acting as a table top. Recently my daughter managed
to break the corner off (approx 100mm x 50mm). Would we be able
to get this polished off by a regular stonemason? (we were thinking
that we could change the style from square corners to round corners)
Many Thanks, Fiona. March 14. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Fiona.. Although it is possible that a stone mason could do this
job for you, you would probably get better results by going to a granite
annd marble counter top fabricator. These shops would have all of
the necessary equipment and skills to do the job. I am not familiar
with Cardosa stone, but if it is a polished surface, most masons would
not have the polishing equipment necessary. Good luck, JVC, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1537: I am working
on a bath and shower for a German customer. We are having a slight
problem with one of our stones. It is called Azul Celeste
and I would like you to help me determine its origin, characteristics
(Marble or Granite???) and its estimated price. We have a crooked
sales man here from Italy and need some amunition to fix a settlement.
Sonja. March 14. Reply |
| A 1536: I am a geologist
and would be grateful to receive details relating to the ornamental
stone Verde Marinachi. Micheal, UK. March 13. Reply |
A 1535: I am working
on a Church where we have an interior slate stair. We are trying
to detail the stair and I have some questions. The stairs are
6'-0" wide and have a support at either end and at the center of the
tread. The tread is approx 13" deep.
1. We have detailed the stairs and we are thinking of making the stone
span a little less than 3'-0" between supports. Given this distance
what would be the recommended thickness I should make the tread?
2. We are considering using slate but if we can not do this with slate
would you recommend granite or limestone? Koji, USA. March 13. Reply |
A 1534: Dear Maurizio,
I had read a reply that you had given to a person who was asking about
sealing Verde Butterfly. You advised him to email you privately in
order to purchase the correct sealer and cleaner. I have been unable
to locate his letter in the archives, but I also have installed
Verde Butterfly for my kitchen counter tops and I would like to purchase
any products that you recommend for it.
I have been reading your advice for quite some time and have developed
trust in your judgment and knowledge since the advice regarding "granite"
has been nebulous at best. Thanks for your time and assistance. Rowena,
USA. March 13. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rowena: Many thanks for your kind words. Do correspond directly
with my through the reply button below and I'll be glad to help you.
Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1533: Is there any
granite called Oriental White or is it just a made up trade
name? If there is such a stone, where does it come from? Olof. Curious
Swede. March 13. Reply |
| A 1532: Is there one
place where I can determine the classification used by Spanish
quarries for marble? For example, some use "Standard", others
use "1a (primera)"... How does "classico" relate to these
and "2a (segunda)" ? Gines, March 13, Reply |
R2:
Crema Marfil has so many different classifications as companies you
can find. The most common is:
Select/First Q.: Homogeneous, light colour, few veins
Standard: Homogeneous, normal veins
Classico: No homogeneous (spots, shadows..), more veined.
The second is:
Select: Homogeneous, light colour, few veins
First Q.: Homogeneous, light colour, a few more veined
Standard: Normal, with veins
Classico (or commercial): More veined, with spots, resined. Over all
it will depend on he type of classification of each plant. Jorge,
Spain, Reply |
R1:
Gines, it is very difficult to know that because it depends on each
company.
Generally speaking is like that:
Primera=First quality (It' s selected very well)
Segunda=Commercial=Second quality (Its the less uniform in respect
to the color)
Standard=Its the most quarried. (Its uniform but not the best quality)
Regards, Francisca, Spain, Reply |
| Thank
you Francisca and Jorge for your reply. If you'll permit follow-up
questions: When a Spanish marble company does not list the quality
with the name of the marble, is it assumed to be "Standard" ? Also,
how does "Extra Quality" and "High Commercial" fit into the list of
classifications you gave me. Again, many thanks for your reply. Gines |
| A 1531: I just found
on the internet a company which claims that Jerusalem stone is
LESS porous than limestone and GOOD for countertops??!! Also other
internet references led me to believe this. Are there different types?
Fisher. March 13. Reply |
R2:
Yes there are different types & strengths of limestone, HOWEVER,
you should obtain ASTM testing results to see what modulus of rupture,
flex & compressive strengths & most importantly - Absorption
rates are.
If you are considering ANY limestone for a KITCHEN countertop - this
would be my advice to you - DON'T USE IT IN A KITCHEN !!! Limestone
has calcium in it which, if the limestone is finely honed or polished,
will ETCH and produce a dull spot if exposed to acid. Limestone will
also stain if exposed to a concentrated staining agent (i.e: red wine,
grape jelly, ketchup, mustard, salsa, etc) Here in Arizona, Many homes
have limestone used on the floors & countertops in bathrooms,
BUT NEVER IN A KITCHEN. I hope that this helps.... KMP, USA, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Fisher: I'm glad to see you were skeptical. It's a lie. You do
NOT want Jerusalem stone -- or any other limestone, for that matter
-- as a countertop natural for your kitchen. Porosity is not the issue,
the natural chemical makeup of all limestones and marbles (Calcite)
is, and there's no product on the market (sealers of what-have-you)
that can overcome the problem related to calcite-based stones (sensitivity
to pH active substances.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist, Reply |
A 1530: Would you please
forward me your guidelines on how to shop for a fabricator?
March 13. Reply |
| R1:
I'd be glad to, but I don't correspond with anonymous people. Ciao,
Maurizio , USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1529: Can give me a
reference for someone in the Long Beach / Orange County, California
area to polish an old terrazo shower base in a house I just
bought built in 1959. Ellen, March 13. Reply |
| A 1528: I am in the
process of re-building our front porch. We live in the North East
(US) steps from the ocean. I am interested in granite capping for
our steps. I would like to know how this will hold up in hot summers,
and icy, freezing winters. Can I expect cracking? What effect
does salt (to melt ice) have on granite. Is granite practical or impractical?
Thanks so much for your help. Dan, March 13. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dan: Usually "granites" for outdoors are real granites or kin
to it, so they are a good choice. Of course it has to come on a flamed
finish. Just install it and enjoy! Ciao, Maurizio , USA, Expert Panelist,
Reply |
| A 1527: I recently had
2 countertops installed. We used laticrete sp100 epoxy grout.
In a few areas the grout seems a little low. I worry about chipping
on the unprotected edges. I still have a table top to grout with the
same epoxy and I was wondering if I can go back over these few areas
and add a thin top off in the low joints. Thom. March 13. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Thom: You shouldn't have a problem. Epoxy bonds to epoxy, even
if the first application is completely cured. Ciao, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist, Reply |
| R1:
The grout that is missing needs to be 1/3 of the entire depth of the
stone or the epoxy grout will not stick. Rebecca, USA, Reply |
A 1526: Could you please
tell me what European norm prEN 1342, Version 30-08-2001 is?
March 12. Reply |
| R1:
I only speak Italian and English, What's more, I don't correspond
with people who while in need of something, don't even have the decency
to disclose their names. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1525: We are moving
into a house with a slate floor in the dining room. The slate
was coated with a golden, translucent, shiny substance of some sort.
That covering has worn off in some places. We would like to remove
the covering entirely. Do you know the best way? Is there anything
we should put on the slate to seal it afterwards? March 12. Reply |
| A 1524: I have brick
that is covered with about four layers of paint and I want to
know the fastest and cheapest way to strip it? Meganja. March 12.
Reply |
| A 1523: I am interested
in info on sealants for honed Granite. David, March 12. Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: What kind of info are you looking for? Good penetrating
sealers for stone are good on granite, no matter what the finish.
Usually, however, impregnators only won't effect the original color
of the installation. There are also sealers, called Color Enhancers
that will permanently darken the stone (without adding any shine)
up to the same shade of color as if it were polished. It's highly
recommended for honed black granite, to help reduce the nightmarish
maintenance requirements attached to the particular finish. Ciao,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1522: Dear Arun, I'm
looking for compressive strengths of Indian Red sandstone,
Bansi Paharpur Pink and Biege sandstone. Kindly help. Bharat.
March 12. Reply |
| A 1521: I want whole
information about Australia stone market. Meenakshi. March
12. Reply |
| R1:
I can help you with this - What information do you need? Harry, Australia,
Reply |
| A 1520: We are trying
to locate a supplier for Argillite Rubble Stone (possibly the
Lockatong version) to be used in a veneer application. Would need
pricing and samples with any additional information that can be provided
as we are very unfamiliar with this product. We are located in Madison,
Wisconsin. Steve. March 12. Reply |
| A 1519: Is St. Cecilia
granite? Should I seal this? Also, I have a new tumbled marble
floor. What is the care for this? Kay, March 12. Reply
|
| R2:
Kay: A granite like St. Cecilia would benefit from being sealed because
it being "light" it will, over time, darken a bit from the oils in
your hands, etc. This can be a charming aspect of the ageing of the
granite just as marble ages and acquires a certain patina. Lynn,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Dear Kay: As far as whether you have to seal it or not the "granite"
you mention, just rely only little "lemon juice test" (see side bar.)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A 1518: Hi! I have read
many of your comments and enjoy your knowledge. I am looking for kitchen
countertops. Like the look of Pietra del Cardosa, along with honed
black granite but as you said, am afraid of stains and problems being
that I have kids. I also love limestone but know that is not at
all practical. I really hate the look of granite- the high polish
as well as the multitude of design in the stone - I want something
rustic and simple. Any thoughts on this? Was wondering where in New
Jersey you operate Maurizio! Many Thanks, Madeline, March 11, Reply |
R3:
Madeline: We are a fabricator that has begun importing granite with
a "new" finish we are calling Venezian. Instead of the slabs being
processed with a polished finish they acquire a slight texture and
have a matte finish. The texture resembles a rock that has been underwater
for some time and the softer aspects have gradually washed away. It
has a rather smooth feel. As for maintenance, it requires regular
sealing as most granites will. If you are working with a fabricator
now, talk with them about finding a source for this finish.
Lynn, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
R2:
Dear Madeline: What you're looking for calls for types of stone none
of which I would want in my own kitchen. Maybe soapstone is what I
consider the lesser of all evils! I operate all over New Jersey, but
I am headquartered in Central Jersey. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
Try Cypress Wood Counter tops - My mother had them and absolutely
loved them they were rustic yet beautiful and very functional - Polyurethane
works wonders. Skip the stone and go for the wood. I am telling you
this even though we install granite counter tops. Rebecca, USA. |
A 1517: I have a lovely
alabaster bowl that my mother in law used for flower arranging. she
used that green plasticene stuff for anchoring a plastic bowl inside.
In trying to remove the plastic, the whole bowl has broken. My questions:
1) How can I remove the plasticene?
2) What adhesive should I use to to repair? Thanks for any
help. Kitty, March 11, Reply |
| A 1516: I have a cultured
marble tub that I tried to install a whirlpool kit into. One of
the holes that I drilled broke in a ragged, larger diameter than I
can cover with the jet. How can I repair this hole? March 11,
Reply |
| A 1515: I wanted to know
if you have any polishes to polish scratches out of cultured
marble. Thank you. Mike, March 11, Reply |
R2:
It is not difficult to get small to medium scratches out of cultured
marble vanity tops. As far as finding the proper compounds, look to
your local automotive store, and use car paint buffing compound. It
is very similar to that used by (us) cultured marble manufacturers
and should work nicely for you. The "buffing" can be done with an
automotive type power buffer, following the directions on the compound.
There should not be need for you to
replace your top due to some scratches. Good luck. Bill, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| R1:
There is no such animal available - New Top is the only solution.
Try Granite this time. Rebecca, USA, Reply |
| A 1514: We are into processing
of Sand Stone , Lime Stone and Slate. Can you let me the process
for giving "Pillow Finish" to sand stone tiles of size 40x40 Cm.
Subodh, March 11. Reply |
| A 1513: What is the
preferred thickness to use for granite kitchen countertops? Marjorie,
March 11, Reply |
| R3:
Marjorie: Rebecca is correct, it is whatever you prefer. We have a
fabrication shop which use 2cm almost exclusively. The market, in
general, has gone to 3cm but I believe that is driven by designers
and fabricators unwilling to work with the thinner granite slabs.
2cm material is about 30% cheaper if that has any bearing in the matter.
Under mount sinks look great and, in fact, I have this in my kitchen
and love it. Lynn, USA, Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Marjorie: I personally prefer, and consequently always encourage
my customers to choose, the 2 cm. with laminated edge. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
| R1:
The preferred thickness for granite counter tops is what ever you
prefer. Any of the thickness should be very adequate. Rebecca, USA,
Reply |
| Maurizio,
If you don't mind answering this question again, why do you prefer
2 cm? Because of the less weight? Does it look as good with under
mount sinks? Thanks much for your help. Carolyn, March 22.
Reply |
| A 1512: Help! I live
in South Florida and have beautiful 65 yr old Cuban quarry tile thru
house and outside patio. After using outdoor fryer, we have oil
spots on tile. I have not been able to remove it. I have used
clorox & detergent, 409, Cinch, Krud Cutter, Oops, De-Solv-It
-- but nothing has helped. Please! Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks! M Joy, March 11, Reply |
| R3:
Dear M Joy: Try to poultice them with acetone, providing that the
type of tile you have (and that you did not disclose) is not going
to be adversely effected by it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist Reply |
R2:
There is nothing that will remove that stain - you could be doing
more damage by the products you are applying.
Products of these types should not be applied to any tile or stone
surface, for fyi.
Wish I had a better answer for you. The only way to remove them is
to replace the tiles. Rebecca, USA, Reply |
| R1:
Lay tissue paper on the tile, Then a hot iron. Repeat the process.
John UK, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1511: Looking for
Pompeii Cream Limestone but can't seem to find someone who knows
anything about it (except our customer who initiated this inquiry
in the first place). Could this be known by another name? Can someone
direct me to a possible source? Thanks. Gene. March 9. Reply |
| A 1510: I would like
to ask you a question. I am considering using Kashmir Gold in
my master bathroom in a new house. I have read in lots of forums
that it is very porous and not suitable for a kitchen; however, how
would it be for a bathroom counter top? Would I have to watch every
second to be sure there was no water or after shave lotion, etc. sitting
on it? Or would it be ok if sealed? I am a very neat person and don't
allow stuff to sit around for long...but I'm still worried it will
be a maintenance nightmare. What do you advise? Carolyn. March 9.
Reply |
| R2:
Dear Carolyn: It looks that finally God came to earth in the person
of LkCmbr (whatever that is!). A vanity top is not susceptible to
staining as a kitchen countertop. Most of the spills you'll have on
it are either water or other colorless liquids. Have it sealed real
good, then you should be OK. Coming from me ... Ciao, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist, Reply |
| R1:
I do not see a problem with it......I have used it in kitchens and
have had no problems. LkCmbr, USA, Reply |
| Thanks
very much. My mind is relieved. And I won't use it in the kitchen...that's
going to have Verde Butterfly, which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful
granite I've ever seen! It has garnets in it!!!
Carolyn. Reply |
| A 1509: I want to
cast my own table top concrete/terrazzo pieces. So, I would be
adding small aggregates like marble etc. to a mold. Where could I
get the small chips of stone (approx.4MM) and then what could I use
to grind or sand down, then polish without buying really expensive
equipment? I have a nice wood shop with wood tools like palm, belt,
orbital. Can they be adapted to work? Thank You!! John, March 8. Reply |
| R2:
Hi John: It would take for ages, but if your up for it here is
a relatively cheap and cheerful method. Either cast the chips in neat
cement or trowel them in. Using an angle grinder (7" or 9" is easier
to get flat), backing pad and 36 silicon carbide, resin backed disk,
grind of the surface keeping the tool moving at all times in as many
directions as possible. Go on to use approx. 80, 150, 240, 400 and
to 600 is probably about as good as you will get. Get a dust mask
or an apron and do it wet, either lots of water or none. A worthwhile
investment would be some diamond hand pads and use these once it is
flattened with the coarser grades. Remember ! in any account be sure
each grade has stopped biting before you go on to the next. It's hard
to be any more exact as it is often a matter of just looking at the
job and using your experience. Bryan, UK. |
| R1: It would take you
for ever. Then you will still not get the finish.John, UK, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1508: I wish to have
some information on "INDIAN ONYX MARBLE". What are the properties
and whether it is a good stone for using as a flooring material in
my house? Compared to Makarana Marble, Abu green, Udaipur marble
or Rajnagar marble etc where does it stand in terms of hardness, long
life, and cost? Patwardhan. March 8. Reply |
| A 1507: What machinery
would you suggest to cut laterite boulders? Are small gang saws
available? March 8. Nelson, India. Reply |
| A 1506: I am interested
in Verde Fire. They are selling it as a granite. Is it suitable
for a kitchen? How difficult is it for the fabricator to work?
thanks Mary, March 8, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary: For suitability of that particular just rely on my little
"lemon juice test" (on the side bar.) I never worked with it, therefore
I can't answer your second question.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1505: What is the
margin of error in the sub-floor's level of flatness? For example
- We have poured a self-leveling underlayment, and yet when we lay
our tiles out in a dry run, there is still some tilting to the tiles.
However, the manufacturer recommends 1/4 inch trowel for applying
the mastic, so is this going to absorb some of the uneveness? Also,
do you cut marble tile the same way you cut ceramic tiles? Andrea,
March 8. Reply |
R1:
First - you do not use mastic to install marble - you will find the
trowel marks to be visible on the face after installation.
You must use marble set to install the marble as it has all of the
correct properties.
You can also trowel it slightly higher or lower in spots to adjust
the height of the marble.
I would personally at this point hire a professional and not try to
do this my self.
It is not as easy as it looks. Rebecca. USA, Reply |
| A 1504: I am in the process
of buying a new house. Unfortunately, I am not able to pick the
color of the marble surrounding the fireplace - I can only get
white marble, which I don't particularly like. Is there any way for
me to change the appearance of the marble once I move in? Can it be
stained or painted, etc? I don't have the money to totally replace
it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! March 8.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear March 8: What are you kidding?! Ciao, March 16, USA, Expert
Panelist. |
| A 1503: For my kitchen
countertops, I am considering Venetian Gold or Giallo Dorado to go
with cherry cabinets. Are these true granites and good choices?
Also, I have an island 5' X 10' with a cutout for drop-in cook top
and sink. Can this be done in 1 piece or is there a chance it will
break upon installation? March 8. Reply |
| A 1502: Dear Steven:
I am building a home in Kansas City, MO. I have an arched mahogany
front door with arched "sidelights" around it. In the sidelight windows
I wish to install thin (~3/8") Honey Onyx tile which has a decent
finish on both sides. I want to create a nice backlit effect,
both from outside (daytime) and inside (nighttime). I can locate
the thin Honey Onyx tile but it has deep grooves in the back (~1/16")
and I am having great difficulty finding anyone that can hone the
backside without charging tremendous amounts. Do you have suggestions
as to a better source for the tile, or someone that can hone the back
at a decent price, or some way I could do this myself? Thanks very
much. Deighton, March 8. Reply |
| R1:
We can supply you with the honey onyx that has safety glass laminated
to it. The onyx is 1/8" and the safety glass is 1/4" please advise
exact sizes for a price quote. Thanks, Jeff, USA. |
| Thanks
very much for your reply. I will measure the panels for a price quote.
Do you have a ballpark price/square foot? Also, is it possible to
cut the panels into curves? I have
enclosed a picture for you to see the application. I can make
templates for the panels if that would help. Do you have a website
where I can look at pictures of the Onyx? |
| A 1501: I need information
on Gold Vyara. Is it a hard or a porous granite? Is it a good
maintenance choice for kitchen countertops? Tom, March 8. Reply |
| R2:
Dear Tom: Hard and porous are not related. For the suitability of
the stone you mention as a material for a kitchen countertop, run
my little "lemon juice test" (on the side bar), then draw your own
conclusions. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| R1:
It is a porous stone and will need a good sealing process. It does
tend to have fissures and hairline cracks but that is the beauty of
the stone. I typically fabricate jobs using this material in the 8
- 10 slabs range per job. Customers love the softness and unique look
of the stone. LkCmbr,
USA, Reply |
A 1500: We just purchased
a builder's model house which has honed granite countertops.
The builder told us the honed finish makes fingerprints less visible.
I would actually prefer a more glossy and vivid appearance (the way
the countertops look when they are wet), but do appreciate the fingerprint
aspect since we have four children. I do not know what kind of granite
this is, but it is overall gunmetal gray in appearance, with dark
taupe and black grains.
My questions: - What are the pros and cons of a honed finish?
-The builder did not mention anything about sealing. Would a sealer
be able to make the surface a bit shinier? Or a polish?
- If the surface is not sealed, will it gradually get duller and duller?
- Does granite normally require periodic resurfacing? For countertops,
typically how often?
Thanks for any help you can give. Pat, March 7, Reply |
R3:
Pat, It varies from granite to granite, it depends what type of
granite you have. The sealer would depend on type of granite you have.
A few types would not require a sealer, because of there resistance
to stains. If you use acidic and oily substances, and do not clean
them readily, this will also have a bearing on how often you seal
the granite (if it is a
granite that needs sealing). Good luck .........Roger, USA,
Reply |
R2:
Dear Pat: If it is Charcoal Gray like it sounds, you don't need to
have it sealed. The stone absorbs just about nothing. The finish that
you have now will never change and it WILL represent a maintenance
nightmare (despite what the builder tells you). All types of surface
stains (that no sealer would eliminate), including finger prints will
be very obvious and a constant eyesore. I would try to have a color
enhancer applied to it (after testing).
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| R1:
I would keep this stone on a regular sealing schedule. You make opt
to seal with a color enhancing sealer but be sure to test the stone
first. I would not put anything else on it. Your stone sounds like
it might be Charcoal Gray Honed from Cold Springs. Is it a tight grain
and very consistent? I have sold about 8 honed jobs in the last couple
of years. LkCmbr, USA, Reply |
| Thanks
for responding. Are you saying that the honed finish is what will
cause the maintenance nightmare? If so, is it possible to have someone
come in and refinish the granite to a more glossy surface (as our
builder suggested)? Thanks again, Pat, Reply |
| A 1499: I am trying to
get information about Juparana Florenca for my kitchen countertops.
Is this a good choice? Thank you. Debbi, March 7, Reply |
|
R1:
Dear Debbie: Run my little "lemon juice test" on it (see side bar),
then draw your own conclusions. Should you be interested at receiving
our free guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installations,
hit the reply button at the end of my answer and ask for it. I'll
be glad to E-mail them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Expert Panelist, Reply
|
| A1498: Hi, My daughter
is involved in a geology scavenger hunt with her 9th grade class.
We have really found many of the items, but the one we are totally
at a loss about is an item the teacher calls "mill stone".
He said it can be found in gravel parking lots. I can find no mention
of mill glass anywhere. Can you help us? Thank you. Sharon, USA, March
7, Reply |
| R4:
Hi Sharon: I
use Mill Stone on a regular basis. It is coarse sandstone from the
millstone grit series. I assume it is the same in the US as geological
terms pretty much international. All the answers are correct also.
I don't know what came first - the name for the stone or it's use
in grinding mills. Bryan UK. |
| R3:
In the UK we have a type of sand stone that is referred to as Millstone
grit, the particles that make up the stone are often random in size
and angular, in fact it is very suitable as a grinding stone or perhaps
a mill stone?? You will need to look in a sandstone area not a parking
lot. Roy. UK |
| R2:
Mill stone is a block of stone which is chiseled round in a radius
of 1' feet and the height is about 4". it has a hole in the center.
It was used in a hand operated machine for grinding of wheat. Harsha,
India. |
R1:
Mill stone-glass is the big daddy. All stone originates from mill
stone. The quotes in mill stone was formed in the BIG BANG. The beginning
of everything. Regards John, UK.
Expert Panelist. |
| A 1497: What type
of tiles, stones, or methods could get me that cutting edge. We
raised the bar when we started 4 years ago and finally some of our
competitors are reaching it. We want to go to the next level. Any
ideas? Regards, Steve, March 5, Reply |
| R2:
Can you be more clear about what is required. Are you looking for
new stones to add to your range???? Harsha, India,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: I'd love to find out if I have any idea to help you out.
The problem that I have is that I did NOT understand one single word
of what you're trying to say! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist, Reply
|
| A 1496: Dr. Hans, Could
you tell me of a reputable refinisher that deals with marble floors?
Have an extensive floor that needs refinishing. The floor was originally
laid some 30 years ago and is losing its lustre. I am in the Sydney
area. Joseph, March 4, Reply |
| R3:
The best thing to do is to repolish the marble floor, I think you
will have in Sydney a specialised company. After repolishing you need
a good maintenance to keep the floor in condition. Tiledoc, Reply |
| R2:
My husband can cut and polish your floor to restore the finish. He
is Greek and it does take a special touch and skill to do this. We
are in Florida. We do travel. Rebecca. USA,
Reply |
| R1:
Howdy Dr. Hans! How are you? I am such a good professional, but I
kinda doubt that this information can do you any good! Ciao, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1495: I live in a two
story town home with a fireplace. There is a piece of marble in
front of it that is broken and I have obtained another piece to replace
it with. However, the piece is too large and will have to be cut to
size. How is this to be done? Can I do it myself? What tool or
tools would I need? (Its 14/16 inches thick and the piece would need
to be 24X36 inches). I would do the work if possible. If not, who
could do it for me? Who would I contact? Thank you, Blanche, March
4. Reply |
A 1494: Hi, I was searching
on the internet and I found a post regarding someone wanting to purchase
flagstones. Your reply had something to do with owning your own quarry
(three I think). I was planning on building a small koi pond in
my backyard and I am hoping that you would have some helpful information
on:
1. The type of flagstone that would be best (I like gray)
2. Where to get it
3. How much it would cost.
Thank you for your time! Jeff, USA, March 4. Reply |
| R1:
We have a stone in East Tennessee called Crab Orchard Flagstone. It
comes in various thickness and size and works very well with water
features. Email me back and I can provide pictures and pricing. Randy,
USA, Reply |
| A 1493: Help! I am trying
to decide on granite countertops offered by the builder of my new
home. The problem is that I cannot inspect the specific slab that
will be installed in my home. Of course this means no lemon juice
test on the slab. I have narrowed down the choices to Giallo Veneziano,
Verde Lavres, Ubatuba and Dakota Mahogany. Which, if any, would
be the safest bet without being able to view the slab. Are any
prone to natural fissures, surface pitting or other issues that I
should be concerned with? The only reason I am considering this is
that there are a lot of other things I could do with a new house and
the $8000+ that it would cost put in the countertops after the fact.
Douglas, March 4. Reply |
| R4:
If it is a granite, you will have no problem with orange juice are
acids, only oil and fat. If the counter top is by placement not the
right one you can always say you don't like this and send it back
before placement. Tiledoc, Reply |
R3:
Dear Douglas: Personally I am not crazy about "inspecting the slab",
but if I can't have a few pieces of scrap from whomever is going to
get my 8K, I would go somewhere else, as simple as that. You don't
have to stick with the builder, nor take their abuse. Just tell them
in non uncertain terms that if you can't get a few pieces of scrap
you'll go somewhere else. That should do it, al right!
That said, Uba Tuba and Dakota Mahogany are very definitely the best
choices among those you listed. If you want to know more, contact
me directly (through findstone.com) and I will gladly e-mail you my
guidelines on how to shop for the right fabricator.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| R2:
Trust me, you will not need to do the lemon juice test on granite.
There is nothing that will damage the finish of polished granite.
The finish is achieved with diamond impregnated polishing pads since
diamonds are the only thing harder than granite. Red wine, citrus
acid, etc will have no effect on granite. Marble is another matter
entirely. All of the colors you mentioned are perfectly suited for
kitchen use. Did you know that the only product which harbors less
bacteria is stainless steel? So much for the solid surface industry
claiming that it is porous and breeds bacteria. As for you question
regarding pits or pores...we purchase epoxy or resin treated UbaTuba
for cosmetic reasons only. There are usually hairline fissures in
this material and the treatment will disguise that. Structurally this
material if more than adequate. Also, I do not know what area of the
country you are in but you might want to do some more shopping for
granite, $8,000 sounds high. Good luck. Lynn, USA, Expert Panelist,
Reply |
| Dear
Lynn: You're absolutely right, there's no need of the "lemon Juice
test" on granite. But if one wants to take into consideration that
tiny 98% of all the stones that are trades as granite but granite
are not, then, maybe ... Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. |
R1:
Insist upon viewing the slab. I was in the same situation with the
builder of our home. Find out who they are purchasing the granite
through & call them. I insisted upon knowing who they were using
as a fabricator. (I found out I paid for the fab, the installer, the
sales
guy to the builder, & the builder!!!!!) I could have cut out two
middlemen - the sales guy & the builder!!! But, then I wanted
the builders warranty (not just for counters, but cabinets, etc) Anyway,
I called the builder's rep & insisted upon viewing slabs &
he tried to dissuade me (we get slabs from Atlanta, Virginia, they
are not locally available, blah, blah) I told him I'd make the drive
to wherever I needed to go (we paid $7000 for these counters, I didn't
care about an over night trip!!) I live in the Raleigh area. As it
turns out, the fabricator they used was an hour away. (Funny, huh)
The slab was delivered there. I drove up, had a long talk with the
fab. Saw some inconsistencies on one of the slabs (Giallo Ornamental),
& the fab suggested using that area for the sink cut out. He was
very knowledgeable & I felt comfortable using these people. Also,
be aware that Giallo Veneziano varies in coloring (this is one of
the stones I started out with, Venetian Gold the other) some can be
very peachy,
others golden. VIEW your slab!! My friend is stuck with a very gray
Venetian Gold (did not view) - she hates it!! Another upside, I ended
up going with a granite outside the builder's stock color choices!
When I expressed concerns with the builders rep over color variations
in the stones I mentioned earlier, he sent someone out with samples
(I wanted a creamier not peachy background stone). I looked at all
kinds of interesting stones. (not likely to be in most people's houses)
Another alternative - I could have saved around $1500 to $2000 going
around the builder. Have the builder put formica counters in your
kitchen (ask them NOT to secure tops!!! Just lay them on) Have your
granite person template after cabinets are in, & schedule installation
for day after closing or shortly thereafter. If you go out on your
own, you will have far more selection. Take measurements of counters,
go to big box stores & get quotes on materials you like, this
will give you an idea of what you will spend on your own. Go to a
reputable granite person & get quotes. Check reps thoroughly.
Also, I contacted the person who showed us the samples & they
came back & did a travertine kitchen backsplash (almost half the
cost of going through builder!) I am also having the upstairs bathroom
done with Verde Marinache granite tops (looks live a river bed - flowing
water & pebbles) Point is, I could have never gotten this through
builder.
Your builder wants your business - this is a very profitable area
for them - INSIST, INSIST, INSIST!!!!! Wear them down or go elsewhere,
knowing what I know now, I would NEVER not view my slab! Dan, USA,
Reply |
| A 1492: I'm looking for
all information on Crema Marfil marble (geology, petrology,
different types, kind of fossils,...) Thank you Frederic, March 4.
Reply |
A 1491: I almost ready
to begin installing a slate floor and counter tops in my kitchen.
Question # 1 - Is there any thing that I can do to prevent the
grout from staining the unsealed slate during the grouting process?
I would rather prevent than spend the hours cleaning and fixing...
Question # 2 - Does anyone have any particular do/don'ts when
dealing with un-gauged Indian Slate? Dave, March 4. Reply |
| R2:
Just Seal with the best sealant available. Use a sealant that is colorless.
It is available in the market. Paul,
USA, Expert
Panelist, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dave: Yes, I do have a list of DOs 'n' DON'Ts when dealing with
Indian slate in a kitchen. It's a very short list: DON'T!
Ciao, Maurizio,
USA, Expert
Panelist, Reply |
| A 1490: We have recently
purchased a 4 year old home with a marble shower, tub, etc. The
shower was never dried down and is covered with water spots, minerals,
etc. What can I used to clean this? The shower door is also covered
with scum. Someone suggested CLR. What do you suggest? Also, the house
had two tub enclosures with water spots. Any suggestions for that.
March 4, Reply |
| R2:
Don't use CLR!! We just did, and it bleached the black marble in our
shower. I am trying to see if there is a relatively easy way to repolish
the marble. JSHA, USA.
Reply |
R1:
Dear March 4: Thank you for disclosing your name to us who work for
free for you.
My answer is just as meaningful as your identity: March 10. Ciao,
Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
| A 1489: I also have an
alabaster chandelier on which the main alabaster plate has
cracked through the middle. It is separated in two pieces but
fits neatly together. Can it be glued together? If so, how and
with what type of glue? Thanks, Mike, March 4, Reply |
| R2:
Yes, use a standard stone polyester epoxy. Back cut a little or drill
inside the stone so that the glue does not go to the edge and create
a visible line. You can color the epoxy with fiberglass colors but
it is better not to fill the seam if you do it like above. Paul,
USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mike: Yes, it can. The ideal would be to use epoxy glue to match
the color (but then, it ain't easy to match alabaster!), but it's
not easy to find and to use. The next best thing, I'd use "Crazy glue".
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
| A 1488: I would be grateful
for advise on what method I should adopt to get a marble effect
on slate, I am aware that the slate has to be painted black to
begin with, but after that, what product/method and tools should I
use to obtain the best result. Barry, March 2. Reply |
| A 1487: I just purchased
a home with granite counter tops. I have grease on my backsplash.
Is there anyway to remove it? March 2, Reply |
| R4:
My memory is not helping me, here. Can you please refresh it for me?
Did I give you directions on poulticing? If yes, I usually offer two
options, which one did you use? What I mean is: what did you use as
an absorbent means, talc powder (baby powder) or paper towel? How
old would you estimate the stain is? Let me know, then we'll take
it from there. Ciao, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
| R3:
Use a poultice. Paul,
USA, Reply |
| R2:
Dear March 2: Yes, there's a way -- assuming it's the same granite
as the countertop -- and here it is: March 10. Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
| R1:
What material is the backsplash? If granite you can clean it with
a neutral PH solution. Many are sold in Home Improvement stores. Regards,
Steven, USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
| A 1486: I am a student
and I am doing a project on limestone tiles. I need to know
what raw materials you need to make limestone tiles, the by-products
produced from those limestone tiles and what employment issues such
as pay scale, benefits, training, and opportunities for your company.
If you could send information about the things stated above in like
2 days or so it would help me so much I really need this information
to do good on my project. Please help if you can. Thank you for your
time. Johanne, USA, March 1. Reply |
| R2:
The raw materials you need to make limestone are the bottom of the
sea all the debre shells fish sediment. HO and just a few million
years. The by-products would lower the acid in your top soil. John.
UK, Expert
Panelist. Reply |
R1:
Dear Johanne: Thank goodness you're admittedly a student!! Let me
tell you, you still have a lot to study about!!
Limestone tiles are made with ... Ready for this? LIMESTONE!!!
In other words, limestone is quarried in blocks; the blocks are cut
into slices (slabs); the slabs are then cut into strips (12", or 16",
or 18"); the strips are then calibrated for thickness (grinding),
then honed and finished; Finally the strips are cut across to make
tiles out of them. About your other questions, I just don't understand
them. Ciao, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. Reply |
A 1367: I'm having material
problems! I paid for "tumbled beige travertine".
When the stone arrived - the edges of the travertine have a beveled-look.
Most were chipped badly and ALL had bad grinder wheel scratches that
were quite obvious & deep. Edges look sloped. I strongly dislike
grout, and am under the impression that this type stone is installed
with a "butted-edge", so shouldn't it have sharper edges?
This is my 2nd shipment (so they say) that I have refused. (They said
they went through and picked out the best ones, but there is no way
that's the truth unless they were blind)!
1.) I need to know what the edges (12x12 tiles) should look like.
They should not be dramatically "filed-off" or beveled looking,
should they??? The sample from which I made my choice and purchase
was not all cracked, grinder-scratched nor chipped.
2.) I want the placement as tight as possible, eliminating as much
grout as possible. If it's beveled off, won't it look wavy and dipped?
Help! The installer said they weren't "tumbled out". I ordered
this Dec. 21, 2001... So, I'm feeling a sense of desperation- yet,
I don't want to settle for shoddy materials. Trish, Jan 24,
Reply |
R6:
I read your mail with a grief, you should not have received the container
in that condition. Briefly, let me explain who we are. We are a natural
stone supplier from Turkey with 14 quarries and 4 factories, all are
in production. (I hope the container you received is
not from Turkey) We have been in stone business for more than 20 years.
Our USA office is in NJ. There are several finishes on the travertine
tiles as follows: Filled / Honed- all holes should be filled, and
all 4 sides should be beveled, no cracks, chips on the stone. When
you install it, it should be tight, no space between tiles.
Tumbled Trav, should come out of the tumbling machine, edges should
be rounded slightly, there are still holes on the stone, because you
cannot fill the holes, and tumble it at the same time. This should
be indicated to you from the beginning, if you fill the holes, and
tumble it, all fillings will come out during the tumbling process.
Please call if you need to talk about it, I will try to help as much
as I can. Best regards, Ms. Gonca, Turkey,
Reply |
| R5:
Most probably they have cheated on your firm. There should not be
any difference from the sample of the stone or delivery of the stone
which has sent to you. You should contact your lawyer. If you still
need stone, please contact us or some professional firm who has been
doing this business for years. Kind regards. Didem, Turkey.
Reply |
| R4:
It is unacceptable behavior in international trade. It would be a
bad experience but don't be sorry. After this experience, you must
be more careful about your trade. You must make trade with honest
and expert firms. Good luck... Turkey.
Reply |
R3:
DEAR TRISH, IF YOU HAVE ORDERED TUMBLED BEIGE TRAVERTINE THEN THE
EDGES WOULD HAVE TO BE SMOOTH, NO SHARP EDGES ARE ALLOWED WITH THE
TUMBLED MATERIAL.
IF YOU WANT PROPER BEVELLING, THEN THE EDGES OF THE 12X12 SHOULD BE
RAZOR SHARP, AS THIS IS THE STANDARD FOR BEVELLING, WHICH SHOULD BE
AT 45 DEGREES TO THE HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL PLANES. IF THERE IS A
BEVEL IT WOULD BE BEST IF YOU INSTALLED THEM TIGHT AND WITH NO GROUT.
IF THEY WERE PROPERLY TUMBLED, THEN MY SUGGESTION WOULD BE TO INSTALL
THEM WITH A 3-4 MM GROUT. THAT WAY THEY WOULD LOOK GREAT TO ME. LET
ME KNOW IF YOU NEED ANY MORE HELP. WITH KIND REGARDS, LEVENT, Turkey,
Reply |
| R2:
Dear sir, When you are ordering the goods you have to mention that
you want the edges unbewelled. But only the surface patinated. otherwise
they will do workmanship for the edges. this chipping seems that the
material is ruined or belonging to ancient times. That is why they
chipped the edges. before the order the material must be mentioned
properly. Best regards. Murat, Turkey, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Trish: Tumbled
travertine does not have (because of the tumbling process) straight
edges, therefore it is not the right tile for a tight installation
(1/16"). Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Reply |
Comments? Complaints?
Compliments? aw@findstone.com
The views expressed in this section are not of FindStone. |
| I've
just spent about ten minutes looking at your site, but from what I
did see I am very impressed. It looks very helpful and user friendly
I will use your sight for various things in the future, Thank you
for this resource. Randy, CLEANING CO. , FL, USA. |
|
