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R1: Dear Melissa: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6477: I like to know which is most suitable for residential floors, travertine or the polished marble? I have the travertine floor now, I found it to be too porous and flakes off easily. Is polished marble easy to maintain in a house? Your reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Clara, March 11, Reply

R1: Clara , Marble is generally a more durable choice and is not completely full holes. Travertine is like swiss cheese and requires an epoxy fill to give a smooth finish. As the tiles wear new voids appear. Thanks granitesmith
Q 6476: Where can I purchase the MB-5 Granite and More Spray Cleaner? Is that what I need to use for my new UbaTuba countertops? I live in central Virginia. Thanks, Mark, March 11, Reply
Q 6475: I am afraid I found your website a little late. I remodeled our house and the master bath has a limestone shower. It is beautiful, but I don't know what products are safe to clean the areas the develop mold (eg. The corners and edges). The other bathrooms have marble showers and I have the same questions. What is safe for cleaning them? Would really appreciate your help. Thanks, Kathy, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Kathleen: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5, MB-3 and MB-9 (the shower-stall team!!). Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Kathy, 2 coats of a product called Stain-Proof from the Dry Treat Company in Australia will seal your shower. Water will not be absorbed by the stone or grout. Additionally since the stone will then repel water mold and mildew will not adhere as strongly and you can use household bleach to remove it as household chemicals will not harm the seal. Bob
Q 6474: I'm hoping that someone can help me - my cat threw-up on our newly installed marble flooring in the master bathroom leaving an exact dulled outline of the incident. The flooring hadn't been sealed yet - and I have no idea how to remove/repair this. The marble is "diano reale" and has a polished finish. Our house is a newly build tract home so there's not really help here locally. Any advice/info/suggests (besides getting rid of kitty) would be Greatly appreciated. Thank you! Bonnie, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Bonnie Aliviado: Have I got good news for you!! Our “Marble repair kit” will take care of your problem as easy as 1-2-3! My specialty products are available at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS. All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6473: We recently had a granite countertop installed... Paradiso is the name. It is really beautiful... but the installer put a seam right in the middle of the area where the undermount sink is installed... so the seam at the very front of the counter (right in front of the sink) looks terrible. They have refilled with epoxy and polished, but I am still not pleased. However, my issue is that they are telling us that this is the way it is supposed to be and that we are lucky we only have one seam in our counter ?! My question is ... is this appropriate installation or not ... should there be a visible seam or not?? Please advise.... THANKS, Janet, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Janet Dalessio: I consider seaming by the sink a disgraceful practice. Unfortunately, however, inasmuch as my feelings are shared with the most prominent experts in the country, there are no official industry standards about that. The fact is that those weak spots should be “rodded”, which is impossible to do if one seams there. The inherent weakness of the narrow strip of stone is further magnified by the seam itself. You can’t expect any invisible seam, especially with a busy stone like Paradiso. However, seaming is one of those areas where you separate the men from the boys. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6472: I had my kitchen table 3 weeks one morning i spoted white spots on it i only use mild soap and water & windex whats up with this, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Robert: I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. Go into the “Educational Literature” and look for the “One-on-one” consultation service I offer for a small fee. (Do NOT buy the article about stain removal: you don’t have stains, no matter what they look like!!) Or, you can also call you fabricator and ask them to solve the problem? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit
Q 6471: I have with a marble floor The house with the problematic floor is nearby the sea and a lagoon and I think the ffloor underneath the marble has been badly sealed. Every day the humidity filters back up through the veins of the marble and ruins the shine of the polish. I hope you have a product that could remedy to that anoyance. Erick, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Erick: Unfortunately I’m not the rental business; therefore I can’t help you. In fact, what you need to solve your problem is to rent a jack-hammer, get rid of your floor, and then start anew using the services of a contractor who know what is doing! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit
Q 6470: I am seeking information regarding the groesbeek canadian war memorial/cemetery in gelderland, netherlands. My great grandfather is listed on panel 1 of this memorial for WW2. do you know where I could get a photo or more information?? a reply would be much appreciated. Bunty, March 11, Reply
Q 6469: Do you recommend travertine for a typical bathroom vanity counter top? I design and manufacture Italian style hand painted and distressed vanities and thought that travertine might be more authentic than granite or marble but might lead to future maintenance problems for my customers. What's your advice? Thanks, Sandy, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Sandy: The only reason why there are maintenance issues with mablr and travertine in a bathroom (vanity top or anywhere else) can be summarized in one word: ignorance. (Specific that is.) My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE, Maurizio,Expert Panelist
Q 6468: We are in the process of installing marble tile in my foyer. We've already pulled up the old parqet flooring that was there and are now ready to install the backer board for support. Do we need to remove the base boards? If so, with the thickness of the tile and backer board being applied, how can we line the base boards back up with the base boards in the adjoining rooms where tile is not installed. Also, with the thickness of these items, how can we line level the marble floor with carpet in the adjoining rooms? Any advice will be appreciated. April, Raleigh, March 11, Reply
Q 6467: We are in the process of choosing tile for our home and like a travertine tile that is not completely polished - it looks "rustic" and is not filled. After reading the issues on this site I am rethinking whether we should chose it or not. Is Travertine not a good choice for floors - like halls - that will see traffic. I hate to spend a lot of money on it and have it look terrible. March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Erica: Providing that you know how to properly maintain it, travertine is indeed a terrific flooring material, especially when not polished. The only issue that I have about your particular choice is the fact that’s unfilled. You understand, I’m sure, that the holes will collect impossible to remove soil. It’s no big deal, really: after all it will be mostly dirt; but it all depends how much the idea bothers you, if any.My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6466: I am looking at a tumbled marble tile 6 x 6 and 3 x 6 size for a bathroom floor. After reading your page I am now concerned about the voids in the tile. Can I fill these with dark grout and still maintain the look of color variation that has attracted me to this tile? Also what was all the talk about sanded and unsanded grout? Seems like I really need to get to the tips? Thank You, Joe, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Jo-Dee: I really don’t know specifically to which tips you’re making reference, but I can promise you that in none of my literature there’s what you’re looking for! :-) Obviously you have tumbled travertine (marble does not have holes). Yes, you could fill them with sand-less grout before installation, and then install with sanded grout (to maintain the rustic look) afterwards. My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
Q 6465: I am happy to find someone like you who has integrity and the education about stone to help lay people like me. I’ve read the questions and answers on your site. Some of the answers do make you wonder if granite is the right choice for your kitchen. However, I continue to search for information and then make my conclusion. Your site is the best I’ve found for what appears to be honest information. I salute you and your professionalism! am buying granite—but I am making an educated purchase thanks to you.Sincerely,Mrs. Wright, March 11, Reply
R1: Dear Mrs. Wright: (or is it Mrs. Right??!... Same pronunciation! J) Many thanks for your kind words. You will need more education than just surfing the net to make the Wright (!!) decision! No information you could ever gather will tell you for sure one stone or the other. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per- download format. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6464: We are remodeling a bathroom and want a slate floor and granite counter top. But I am anxious having read some of the comments on your web site. In particular, can you tell me:
1) What are the problems with slate on a bathroom floor?
2) Should I stay away from light colored granite entirely for a vanity top (eg. Imperial White), or is it OK if I “seal” it? If so, how often? Can I do it myself? What are we talking in cost for a 6’ x 2’ countertop? Many thanks for this amazing resource. Robert, March 11, Reply

R1: Dear Robert: 1) The problems with slate (it much depends on the salte, too) are too numerous to list. Suffice it to know that your best bet is to stay away from it! 2) No, once it’s properly sealed with my outlandish 10-year impregnator/sealer MB-4 you should not have any problem at all, especially if you will maintain it with my excellent cleaning products, namely MB-5 and, optionally MB-13 (be stingy with the latter: one thin coat once a week will do plenty! It will beautify your stone and further protect it!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6463: I have been searching and searching until I found your site. Hope you can help. Due to a defective flu in my fireplace, the unglazed, tumbled marble surround is heavy with black soot along the top. Is there anything I can use to clean it? I have not touched it, hoping to find some advice. My area is rather rural and I can’t seem to find anyone knowledgeable on the subject. The installed “has no idea.” Many thanks.Nancy, March 10, Reply
Q 6462: I have a simple question that I hope you will answer. There is a Civil War era cemetery on my property, and a few months ago the electric company broke one of the limestone headstones (100+ years old). I would like to repair it as best as is possible. Can you tell me the best way to glue the headstone back together? Thanks! Angela, March 10, Reply
Q 6461: Great site – wish I read it before I had sandstone installed in our powder room. Our contractor installed unsealed grey sandstone (which had some sparkled elements) on the floor and wall. Subsequently, it was stained in two ways: water had dripped from an open drain; the grout stained along all of the edges. We had several stone restorers in to attempt to buff and clean, following a variety of attempts by our contractor to clean it with everything under the sun (acids, poultice, everything). We now have a pretty dull finish, and the stains still show through. We do not want to scrap the tile, and have considered painting or staining to get a more “unstained” look. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Brian, March 10, Reply
Q 6460: Dear sir, I like to know which is most suitable for residential floors, travertine or the polished marble? I have the travertine floor now, I found it to be too porous and flakes off easily. Is polished marble easy to maintain in a house? Your reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Clara, March 10, Reply
Q 6459: We would like to like what does "Honed Carb 120" indicate , which we have been observing in inquiries from buyer's for application of stone on pavements. Maneesh, March 10, Reply
Q 6458: Hi, I read that there is a natural stone that glows in the dark. I first heard of it in Taiwan. Does any of your suppliers have this type of stone? Warm regards elsie, March 10, Reply
Q 6457: I am a fabricator & was polihing some black galaxy at work & my 200 grit pad started coming loose on the outer edge of the disc while i was polishing my top 1/4 inch roll as soon as i heard it slapping i stopped polishing & dried area to inspect area it was too late the surface had already been scarred at times this has happened in the past ive used akemi stone polishing fluid #20-1210 to match surface . obviously it didnt work this time which doesnt surprise me on black granite , ive went from my 200 - 3000 grit pads & used a black buff pad then added polishing fluid & buffed .i still cant seem to get the surface finish to match . i would cut another piece but this island piece is over 1/2 slab in finished size . would appreciate your knowledge on surface finish matching in any situation . as in for example what do you do if you notice a dull section or spot on the surface of the granite after installing piece , please keep in mind that lighting in houses show differently on the stone than fabrication shop lighting. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. thanks Kenny, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Kenny: I don’t mean to be rude, but there’s no way anybody can teach you in writing how to spot polish the surface of a granite slab. I do hold training classes on stone restoration/refinish and, among other things, I teach how to do just that. My next class is April 29 through May 1. Read all about it in the “Training & Consultation” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PAnelist
Q 6457: Hi, We are looking for contractors who can supply labour for cutting, finishing, edging, polishing raw granite slabs, under mount sink installations, flooring preparation, splash installations, bathroom granite installations, countertop installations.Can you send your estimate/rate for the above work? Thanks in advance Sam, March 09, Reply
Q 6456: I have a slate fire surround which has been painted. Can you tell me the best way to remove the paint and then treat the slate to give it a good finish. March 09, Reply
Q 6455: Have you heard that white thassos actually curls? If so, how would you approach a second level installation, which has water proofing membrane underneath and has been set with marble and granite thinset from custom. This install is actually slab material 24" by 24" , 3/4" to 1 1/4" thick.Any advise is appreciated, Klaus, March 09, Reply
Q 6454: My cousin has a slate hearth.can you please tell me how he can clean the marks off. thank you, March 09, Reply
Q 6453: My current problem stems from a contractor more interested in getting paid than finishing the job.I have a new patio of about 1500 sqft.of Arizona Flagstone and other quarry stones from Flagstaff Arizona installed but it appears very blah. In reading your site it is obvious that the new patio was never acid washed or sealed. Could you recommend the correct acid and concentration along with a type of sealer that can be used in Phoenix, March 09, Reply
Q 6452: Hi Maurizio, I found your name on the web and have a question for you. I recently bought an alabaster Art Nouveau buste. She's beautiful, but also very dirty. How can I safely clean her. She is an amber toned alabaster. Some of the dirt is probably tobaco smoke, a dirty brown.She also has some parts of her lace hat missing.I'm thinking of restoring that using 2-part clear epoxy and some colorants.I tried that before with marble and it worked quit well. She also has a white line, possibly a crack running acros her neckline. Is this a problem ? I'd greatly appreciate your help and advice on these matters. Sincerely, Rick, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Rick: I have a product, namely MB-9 that should do the trick for you. Spray it on and let it sit there for several minutes. That should clean it already. If not, repeat the procedure and help the chemical a little bit with a soft-bristled tooth brush.BTW, nice website!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6452: What is the best way to clean a rosa sandstone walkway that has never been sealed? It has some green mosslike coloration on it and is "dirty" from ash as a result of California fires.Thanks, LM, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear LM: I have a product, namely MB-9, that if used with a power-washer will do the job for you. Further instructions will be given to you if you decide to purchase it. My specialty products are available at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS section of our web site, All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6451: We installed 12 X 12 limestone in our shower and no one told us to use a grout releaser before we grouted. When we returned to the store to ask how to get the haze off, we were THEN told about grout release...little too late.The last thing we were told to try is Phosphoric acid but even that isn't taking it off. I obviously don't want to seal the tiles until the haze is removed. I know you dislike Limestone but we didn't know before what we know now...Please help! Thank You, Teri, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Teri: Well, there's not much that I cod about it now! Limestone can't be treated with anything acidic, and all grout-removers are acidic! I guess that at this point your best bet is to hire a stone restoration company to grind your grout film off the stone surface, not to mention the damage you made to it with the Phosphoric acid! What kind of impregnator/sealer are you planning to use afterwards and how do you plan to maintain your shower-stall? You're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6450: We have been looking at granite for our kitchen counter top, to go with our natural cherry cabinets. For my family the bottom line has to be hardiness and ease of maintenance since there are often children and teens in the kitchen. For us this means: 1) least porous; 2) scratch and chip resistant; 3) fingerprints less obvious would be a plus. We are considering peacock green, but have also looked at blue pearl, emerald pearl, and dakota mahogany. I prefer not to have all black. Questions: 1) By my criteria, what would be the very best granite(s)? How are the ones I listed? 2) Please list a few others we haven't considered. Thank you for any replies we receive and also for a wonderful website. Maria, March 09, Reply

R1: Dear Maria: If the selection (grading) of the slab is good, all the stone you've listed are two thumbs up! However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! I did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6449: hi i have a marble slab table which has 2 silver dollar size chips in it the shiney part that makes it look polished not the actual marble is there anything besides refinishing the whole table that we can do thank you jamie, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Jamie: Your marble table top has been coated with shellac instead of being actually polished (as marble should: by abrasion and friction, like gemstone). It’s typical of the furniture industry. Part of the shellac came off. Nothing can be done about it. The only solution would be to have a stone restoration company remove all the shellac and then polish your stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6448: I recently bought a house that has a granite countertop. I clean it regularly with a generic countertop cleaner. But I can't seem to get it 100% clean. It cleans the dirt off but there is always streaks & smudges left over, even if I use Windex. My question is how would I know if my countertop needs a sealing or a waxing (or anything else) & what do you recommend. Thank You, Howard, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Howard Schwartz: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! What’s more, once you get your products, and I’ll give you some very important tips as the “first line of attack!” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6447: Hi... I was reading your tips and saw that you offer a maintenance guide for natural residential stone (we're about to purchase and install a granite countertop for our kitchen and island...and are putting marble in our shower stall.Would love to have your helpful guide! Thanks!Jana, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Jana Reid: My maintenance guidelines are very important, but the most important part of maintenance begins before you decide which stone to and which contractor to use! Along with my maintenance guidelines you should consider getting my article on how to shop for a granite countertop! The article you're looking for, as well as all our other titles are available in pay-per-download format in the "Educational Literature" I want to take the opportunity to let you know that all our own pay-per-download articles are available for FREE to our established customers. Should you decide to give our fine specialty products a try by buying some through our secured online retail store for a minimum value of $49.00 (before S. & H. charges) for each article, you will be entitled to a full refund of the cost of the literature you purchased just for the asking! Moreover, you could also ask for any other title, FREE of charge, through the CONTACT US section of our site, by citing: PROMOTION 626 and the date of your order! Please, pay a visit to the CONSUMER PRODUCTS section of our Sincerely, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6446: I recently installed a 4' x 9' black slab (very tight matrix and quite dark) on the hearth of an special fire feature that will sit on top of the granite. When I look across the slab under certain light conditions, there are dark and light lines that are across the entire width of the slab and travel the entire length. They repeat about every 1.25". Do you know what they are? Also, black paste shoe polish has been suggested as a method of removing the lines. Do you have any sense of the long term affects of the black polish, especially when heat is present? The quarry rep said he had never seen such lines. March 09, Reply
R1: Dear: The quarry rep said he had never seen such lines. Neither did I! Black shoe polish, huh?! … Wow, that sounds like a “winner” to me!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6445: I had new granite installed in my vacation condominium last year. This is a second home and had not been used for several months (but with the heat left on). When I visited this past weekend I was horrified to find a new stain on the granite (beige - Jacaranda). I had left a new spice turnstile on the counter which had a rubber bottom. Apparently whether the ocean moisture or the heat 'cooked' the rubber enough so that a circular blue stain was left. I had paid the installer to seal the granite (which I'm now guessing was NOT done). Can you give me the best advice on how to remove the stain and what I would need to do to truly seal the granite to avoid this for the future? Thank you! Patty, March 09, Reply
R1: Dear Patty Sue Williams: A stain like that would have happened even if the stone had been sealed properly. Chances to take it out? I honestly don't know, but I would give it a shot as if it were an organic stain first. If that won't work, I would then try something else. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no trueprofessional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order itthrough our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . If the treatment for an organic stain won't work, gimme a shout and I'lltell you what else to do. You're in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6444: Within the next week my husband and I must choose a granite for our kitchen counter. We have a family and children are often in our kitchen and so we
want a counter that is: 1) extremely resistant to staining - if we did not have to treat it, that would be great. 2) extremely unlikely to chip, scratch, or crack. I have been studying your excellent article - The World's Most Popular Granites. I have learned a lot from it, but because I am not a scientist, I still have questions.

From your article, I learned that I should choose a dark granite. I can use the table to look at water absorption. But here are my questions:

1) It seems that I should choose magmatic and not metamorphic - is that correct?
2) Using your table of Quartz x Phagioclase, is the row with Quartz (0 - 5%) better than those with more quartz? Are there particular categories that arebetter, for example, Syenite - larvikite.
3) I don't see Peacock Green in your table - that is one of our favorites. Are you considering it to be a larger grained ubatuba? Does the larger grain
size mean that Peacock Green is more likely to chip or break? What do you think of it for our purposes?
4) We don't want pure black. Other granites we have considered are Emerald Pearl, Blue Pearl, and Dakota Mahogany. How would these be, according to our
criteria?
5) Can you suggest any other granites that would be extremely unlikely to stain and extremely unlikely to chip, crack or break? I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give. I see that you are a professor and so I know you must be very busy. I only discovered the Findstone website and your excellent article several days ago. I am rather horrified to think that my husband and I were about to make a big purchase based on aesthetics alone, with little real, practical knowledge.Thank you in advance for any advice you can give us, and also for your excellent article. Sincerely, Maria, March 08, Reply
Q 6443: We are going to have our granite counters installed in a couple of weeks. My husband and I are arguing about whether to paint/paper backsplashes now or after the counters are installed. He tells me that the top of the 4" backsplash will be caulked thus leaving an uneven edge to run paint or paper against. He says we'll have to dig out any caulk to paper or paint. I can't believe this. You mean every time that I want to change paper or paint I've got to dig out caulk and then re-do it? HELP!!! Denise, March 08, Reply
Q 6442: We recently had tropic brown granite tiles put on our kitchen countertops. Installer did a nice job. However we have a triple cast iron sink(Kohler) and when it was reset on he countertop, plumber's putty was used. We now have a dark ring(oily looking) around the sink. It is about 1/2 inch wide. I now know plumber's putty is a no no, but too late for that. I would be interested in your advice on what type of poultice or stain remover I may try. If there ia a charge, let me know. I have not sealed the counter yet for two reasons - we are putting a wood trim and carpenter is not done with it yet and also I am not real sure what to seal it with. Thanks, Gail, March 08, Reply
R1: Dear Gail Greenwood: Fierst you have to remove the sink and plumber's putty. Second you have
to treat the stain by poulticing it out with a pain stripper based on Methylene Chloride. About how to properly make a poultice, when it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains",
and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6441: I have all new marble tabletops in my living room. Glass rings have developed from what I think was hot coffee cups, even though we used coasters (cork coasters). Please advise how I can remove them myself. I am very handy I just need your superior knowledge! Thanks and I will not ever put another cup on there again. Alex, March 08, Reply
R1: Dear Alex: Yes, indeed: I have a product, namely MB-11 that will do the trick for you! Actually, we have a special “marble repair kit” (which includes MB-11) that’s currently on sale! No, there’s no such a thing as a protectant to prevent those kinds of damages. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6440: I am looking for a remedy to take away cigerette burn marks off a marble table top. The top is white. Is there a cure? Thanks, Lynne, March 08, Reply
R1: Dear Lynne:Not a DIY project, I’m afraid. You can try with 30/40 volume Hydrogen Peroxide (available at you beauty salon), but I dout that you will get a complete result. A bona fide stone restoration contractor may be your best bet.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6439: We have a new travertine floor and I have tried to clean some small spots of urine off, but it appears to be etched. Nothing will remove the stains, and I am concerned that the floor will have to be polished. Since this is a new home (2 months old) I am worried that I will have an ongoing problem with acidic liquids. Is there something I can seal the floor with so that a problem like this can be cleaned up without leaving spots? March 08, Reply
R1: Dear Molly: Are you sure that your "stains" were made by urine and not, say toilet-bowl cleaner? Urine is slightly acidic (ureic acid) and it takes some doing to etch travertine. Toilet-bowl cleaners are marble-killers! Regardless: A) whatever the reason you have to have your stone re-polished. And, B), there's nothing that you can apply to it to prevent etching. The good news is that if they are really urine "stains" we have a product, MB-11 that will take care of them. If they are toilet-bowl "stains" instead, they're typically too severe for our product to repair them.If you need additional assistance, you're in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6438: I'm a researcher for the Index (Washington) Historical Society's Exhibitions Committee. For the 2004 season - Memorial Day thru September - this year's exhibit theme at the Pickett Museum will center around a company that was very important and essential to our town back at the turn of the last century, the Western Granite Works quarry, started in 1904 here in Index by John Soderberg, who also founded Swedish hospital in Seattle, WA.In this endeavor we would like to educate our visitors on the importance that building in stone had to the advancement and progress of the Pacific Coast states - usually this importance was emphasized strongly to citizens when a wood- framed town burned to the ground, as Seattle did in 1889.
Most importantly in my research, I am trying to locate tables and graphs (hopefully with pictures) regarding anything to do with quarrying, and building stone names, similar properties and differences, and small sample blocks to use in a "Visitor's Quiz". Any assistance you might be able to give in this regard would be most appreciated. Kate, March 04, Reply
Q 6437: We are in the process of building a home and are trying to decide on kitchen countertops. We had selected Cambria and then heard (from a Granite dealer) that people are starting to remove their Cambria because they aren't satisfied. We could not locate the 'rocking the boat link' to see if there was any pertinent information on the pros and cons of Cambria vs Granite. Any input/opinions would be appreciated. Ruth, March 04, Reply
R1: Dear Ruth: I have no idea if your granite dealer is telling the truth, and, if so, upon what grounds he bases his statement, but it sounds mighty biased to me! :-)
That said, I personally like natural stone much better than engineered one. The problem with granite is the scary ignorance (which inevitably leads to “surprises”) surrounding it displayed by all too many operators. However, if you get the right “intelligence” about it, nothing beats a granite countertop!! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio Bertoli
Q 6436: I am looking for information on reinstalling a tiffany marble shower base (a stress crack occurred due to an unleveled substrate under the base). Since the base needs to be replaced do the walls have to be removed? What material should be used to set the base? Is a pan needed under the base in a second floor bathroom? What type of silicone should be used to seal the walls to the base? Any information or contact you could give me would begreatly appreciated, March 04, Reply
Q 6435: Does marble stay cooler than other floors, if so how much cooler than ambient temperature? I have heard that marble stays like 16 degrees F cooler than ambient temperature. Is this correct.? Sincerely, Charlie, March 04, Reply
R1: Dear Charlie: Unless your particular marble has some “mysterious magic properties”, it will be at room temperature all the time. It may feel cooler because it transmits heat, but that’s all there is to it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Marble and most stones have a higher coefficient of heat transfer and so they seem cooler to the touch. burzin
Q 6434: We have a marble (or "marble") patio table that is experiencing some problems with pitting. Small bits have flaked out of it, leaving small holes. Is this really marble, and no matter what, do you have any suggestions? We live near Dallas, TX. Thanks, Norm, March 04, Reply
Q 6433: About a year ago, our contracter purchased and installed mexican terracotta tiles in our kitchen. subsequently white spots (calcium deposits?) broke thru on about 25% or more of the tiles, in some cases 5 or 6 withe spots on one tile. the floor looks terrible. our contractor says that this is normal for mexican terraacotta tiles. i can't believe that. what are your thoughts? my belief is that either the tiles were not sealed properly or inferior tiles were purchased by the contractor. do you have any suggestions as to how the situation can be corrected? (ncidently, we had terracotta tiles installed in another room over 20 years ago. no white spots ever appeared on those tiles.) i would appreciate any advice that you can give me. sincerely, melvin, March 04, Reply
Q 6432: I had a lot of sandstone "tiles" made for my outdoor pool deck for my new home. They came from Mexico, and I believe it is sandstone, but I didn't know that when I ordered it. The stone delivered was more porous than the sample, and it was very brittle. It had areas in it that looked like it was
made of petrified wood. When they picked up some of the pieces from the shipment crate, they broke. They installed the remaining tiles anyway. After installation, they power-washed them, which opened up more holes in the porous areas. Then they sealed them. Then they put a white-colored
grout on to fill in the gaps and the larger holes. When they put the grout on, they got "grout wash" all over almost all of the tiles. The residue from the grout looked like a whitewash. To remove it they washed the stones with muriatic acid. Then they power washed the tiles again. It looked awful.
While we were trying to figure out how to deal with this, some big brownish areas stated forming. The stone dealer said it is "efflorescence". He suggested wire brushing to remove the brown (I don't think it will work), then putting 3 coats of sealer on it. Meanwhile, there are lots of voids in
the stone that seem to be enlarging, and I still have large "whitewashed" areas. Is this something you can help with, either in the way of advice, or is this something you do as a business? Thanks, Jim, March 04, Reply
R1: Dear Jim: After all that "amazing" treatment, is there actually any of that crappy stone left? Here's the solution of your problem: First: get a machine gun and kill both the dealer and the installer dead. Second: get some TNT and blow up the whole stupid floor.Third: live happily ever after. Nobody will ever file criminal charges against you. They should actually give you a medal for ridding the world from a couple of total idiots. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
Q 6431: I wish I would have known this before!! I also see a stain... like water probably? Or oil? Can it be taken out? I've only had it installed three days ago!! It's a popular color... Balck, light yellow, white and some brownish-maroon spots every now and then. I was told I should seal it.... should I ???Any help on this matter, I would grately appreciate it!! I am cluless and hate myself for it!! Should have read before!! Thank you. Ann, March 04, Reply
Q 6430: how do retailers of large pieces of stone ensure a safe environment for their workers and customers? March 04, Reply
Q 6429: Hi I have marble in my main living areas and I do not know what is the best way to clean it. Can I use vinegar with water? I also have saturnia marble in the master bath and know frow reading in your website how delicate it is to clean, please let me know if there is a specific product to clean it with. Currently I use water and a stone cleaner provided by the builder, but it does not seem to clean the floor, if I spill water and clean it with a paper towel it shows a ton of dirt, so it seems that it is not really getting clean. Please help me thanks Paola, March 04, Reply
R1: Dear Paola: Even by thinking of using water and vinegar you're going to damage your marble!! Vinegar is highly acidic (acetic acid), and you can't use anything acidic to clean marble! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-1. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6428: Your site is great! I have some questions and would be grateful for your opinions:

(1) I got Amadeus granite slab countertops a couple of ago and don't actually know whether they were sealed or not. They are wearing well, though, even though I'm a tough cook and mess-maker. Should Amadeus granite be sealed? (Assuming it really is granite? ) It's apparently considered in the green category, but is really black and grey with a lot of movement, including magenta and white.

(2) We are just finishing right now a bathroom remodel with 12 by 12 Travertine Durango tiles on the shower surround and half way up the walls. According to you, this does not have to be sealed, right? If I don't have to I don't want to, b/c it's an extra expense and might alter the look of the natural stone.

(3) The same bath we put in a floor of Empadora Dark marble tiles 12 x 12. Should this be sealed?

(4) Some of the Travertine Durango tiles seem to have been filled in with something almost like cement or spackle. And not just little holes or something; sometimes it looks like they filled in several inches. Is this kosher? Sarah, March 04, Reply
R1: Dear Sarah: Allow me to make a "cute" comment. In my book, when I have a problem with something that I bought I go back to the people I gave my money to. If I use products to maintain that certain something and I see that I don't get anywhere, I go back to the people who make the products and I gave my money to. How does this sound to you so far? :-) I'm sure you did all that, and now you come here asking for help from somebody who ... made no money whatsoever out of you! :-) Besides, you don't really expect me to badmouth the competition (SCI), do you? :-) This is my "public" answer. Now, if you need additional assistance (yes, I do have ALL the answers to your questions and I'll be glad to help you out), get in touch with me Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6427: We recently had a Granite counter tops installed in a new house we are building. My wife found in the one piece of Granite that is on an island their are eight to ten small holes about 1/16 to 1/64 in size. She pointed them out to the installer because they were showing up as white spots because the sealer had not dried in those spots. She has became very upset. The installer used a torch and something that looked like a heavy wax that he melted on to a putty knife and tried to push into the holes.She asked if he was going to reseal it and he said it didn't need it.Is their any type of repair that will make it look ok. Is their something I can apply or are their repair people hoe specialize in this type of repair. March 04, Reply
Q 6426: If we have a flat marble tile fireplace wall, can we go over it w/ a different stone? March 04, Reply
Q 6425: Yesterday, I had black honed granite countertops installed. (And sealed.) Today, I read your web site--too late, I'm afraid. There is a white circle, probably caused by oil from a salad bowl, and numerous palm print (perhaps our son had just used hand lotion). At any rate, Maurizio has mentioned a color enhancer. Because a sealer has been applied, is it possible to have this removed and then have the color enhancer applied. Am I too late for this? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Betsey, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Betsy: Yes, the impregnator/sealer MUST be removed for the color enhancer to work. There are two ways to go about it: Mechanically – which is the best way – by re-honing your countertop with a honing powder. Only a professional can do that. Chemically, by using a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (available at paint stores or home improvement centers). That is a highly toxic substance, and must be used with all kinds of precaution. To silver lining is that it will make you see beautiful colors! :-)
Have you fabricator remove the stupid thing that they should have never applied to begin with! After that, get my unrivaled Stone Color Enhancer (MB-6) along with a proper cleaning agent (MB-5) for routine cleaning. .All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6424: I discovered that I left a pumpkin on our "Yellow River" countertop far too long and apparently the pumpkin was rotting from the bottom. As a result, I did not notice. After I cleaned and wiped it up with water and dried it, there is a darker round area, stained, which looks permanent. Is there anything that can be done? I believe "Yellow River" is granite. Thanks for any advise you can give. Sincerely Miriam, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Miriam: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Treat your stain as an organic stain. You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6423: I tried your lemon test on my newly (3 days) installed granite. I got no stain after 20 minutes!! :-) You would think I'm happy.... But ... No.... I do have two stains... (they look like a water satin on a wood table, except these are dark) What are they? If lemon did nothing!!! What can this be??? This granite is Yellow, white, Black and some spots of a brown - redish color. Seems like a very popular color ... at least in this neck of the woods. What can I do? I know the people that installed it Did not "seal" it with anything. They also said, I could just clean it with any commercial countertop cleaner!! Not true right? Please give me some advice!! Thank you. Ann, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Ann: To find out what kind of stains you have you’re gonna have to help me out a little bit.
Spill some water in different spots of the countertop and let it sit for 5 minutes or so. Wipe it dry and observe if the spots under which the water have been sitting has become noticeable darker. Ask you fabricator if that slab was resined by the factory. Where the stains you’re talking about there all the time, or did they develop later on. If the latter is true, what could have caused them? Cooking oil? coffee?...
Try to describe to me a little better what your stains look like. (I have no idea how a water stain on a wood table looks like.) You’re in direct contact with me now! And BTW, you’re right, you do NOT want to use a generic cleaner on your natural stone countertop! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6422: We recently had granite countertops installed in our kitchen but I can't seem to find any reference to the stone we picked. Do you have any information on the properties of "Verde Tropical G" as I was told it was granite I want to make sure that I use the proper maintenance regimen. Regards, Shaun, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Shaun: Verde Tropical is a stone coming from Brazil. Is classified as a gneiss, but I'm not too sure about that. Whether it needs to be sealed or not is borderline: it depends on the particular batch of slabs. As for routine care, my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6421: I'm considering black marinachi with a honed surface for kitchen counters. (Remodeling a log house - don't want too "refined" a look.) The fabricator buys polished granite and hones it; tells me it will need sealing more frequently than once a year. Will a honed surface mark up more than a polished one? How satisfied have people been with honed surfaces? What do you think of my choice? What about Jet Mist (Virginia) honed or polished? It seems very porous to me. Thanks in advance! -Sue, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Sue: What kind of a lousy impregnator/sealer does you fabricator use that has to be applied once a year? And since when does black granite need to be sealed to begin with? All stone related internet forums are soaked with the tears of people who had their black granite countertop sealed and now they’re facing all sorts of “weird problems” their fabricators don’t have a clue about? (Of course they don’t: they created those problems to being with!) And what about honed black granite? Haven’t we learned yet that to make honed black granite almost manageable you have to apply a stone color enhancer to it, and that you can’t do that if you apply an impregnator/sealer? Is there anything else that your fabricator doesn’t know? Let me guess: they told you to clean your countertop with water and dish soap! Or is it a glass cleaner?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6420: I am a 49 year old professional whom has only recently found my niche in the “stone” business. I would appreciate any advice as to how I should proceed with my education. I do not have an order of importance, i.e. what is the most important knowledge versus what is less important when trying to sell, treat clients with honesty and converse professionally with others in the industry. Thank you for your time and I look forward towards your reply. Respectfully, Benjamin, March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Benjamin: When it comes to education I can help you a great deal! Our corporate motto is: Education before any sale! And we do mean it! Now the question is: what is exactly that you want to do? Are you planning to start a business selling stone? Let me know. You’re in direct with me, now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6419: I have a natural black granite counter top. Sine 2 months I have 4 whiute stains roughly 2 inches in diameter. I have used paultice 'il mangia macchia' 3 times and the stains are still there. What Can I do to clean the stains, and then what can I do to prevent it. I appreciate your advice. March 03, Reply
R1: Dear Kamran:
I do believe that I have the solution of your problem. However, before I come up with a diagnosis, I need you to answer the flowing questions:
1. How white are your stains?
2. Was your countertop sealed with an impregnator?
3. Exactly which black granite do you have?
Let me know. You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6418: I would like to have Turkish travertine installed in my kitchen, entry, tv room and bath. How do I go about finding the right person to do the job. I live in southern Ca and have concrete floors. I've been pulling up the current tiles, underneath is some kind of gray adheasive. Does that need to come off, before the floor is installed. I would like to have it butt jointed, does it have to be installed with the mudd method, or is there another way. Thanks, CB, March 02, Reply
R1: Dear Clelia: You do NOT want a butt-joint installation! 1/16” grout gap is the requirement for a good installation. For all the rest, I can’t help you. You’re gonna have to rely on the reputation of a good contractor. I don’t know anybody in Southern California. Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (that could be refunded to you) in the “Educational Literature”You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6417: I just moved into a home that has an outdoor slate patio. The former owner sealed it with god knows what. It is now dark gray and dingy. Is there a special way to remove the old and what would you recomend to seal it to keep it looking colorful and clear. Thank you in advance, Joe, March 02, Reply
Q 6416: Please provide technical information on slate from Southern India. Density, compression tests, breaking loads, wear by attrition etc, March 02, Reply
Q 6415: Can a limestone fireplace be removed and reset, without being damaged, in order to repair damaged wall that is behind it? March 02, Reply
Q 6414: I live in south Florida and intend to redo my pool patio. Right now it is poured concrete that overhangs the pool. It is three inches thick and full of unsightly deco drains. I want to remove the entire deck and put in natural stone such as shell stone. Can I lay this on compacted sand? Or do I need to lay it in cement? Bill, March 02, Reply
Q 6413: I'm Italian living in Usa and I am about to update the kitchen in a house I just bought. I grew up with marble as counter tops in my house in Italy. (600 years old marble in kitchen) So I'm not sure why people don't use it here or why contractors tell me not to use it. (some Americans only want shiny surface but I don't care) Can you recommend some sellers of marble- or should I get some slabs in Carrara (my family from there), ship it myself and have someone install it here. ? How would I do this, taxes etc? Also, is it cheaper to get it from lapidiary makers (for cemeteries? Thank you- Silvia. Also, what type of white marble do you recommend, March 02, Reply
Q 6412: I had just installed a totally black granite on my kitchen countertop. The countertop based on the lemon juice test, does not need a sealer because it does not absorb the lemon juice. Now the installer, to make it shine even better, put some rubbing compound on top of it. Yes, it looks good at first but then in the kitchen sink area where it is frequently wiped, the rubbing compound slowly faded in that area making it not uniform. I think the installer was wrong in putting the rubbing compound in the first place. How do I remove the rubbing compound? Do I need to put anything on top of it to make it shine even better? Thanks for any advice you may give. Judy, March 02, Reply
Q 6411: I have limestone front porch steps. The top part of the steps has interlocking limestone. The mortor/concrete is deteriorating. Would you recommend patching the concrete or rebuilding the steps? Why? I'm being quoted $400-500 to patch and thousands to rebuild. I'd like to try to patch it myself but I don't know what to do.March 02, Reply
Q 6410: I have some ROVER stone VERDE ALPI 300x600 conglomerate (reconstituted) green MARBLE tiles I am planning to use in a bathroom. Will they need to be treated as REAL green marble or can I use regular tile adhesive. Ive asked a lot of people and no one really knows, pleeeeease help. David. SYD AUSTRALIA. March 02, Reply
R1: Dear David from Down Under: Nobody could give you a final answer to that, because different makes can be different from one another. But why do you want to worry about it? Just stay on the safe side and use white thin set! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6409: Heard that Lava stones are used in Sauna Bath, Why so? March 02, Reply
Q 6408: After a barbecue last night we noticed grease stains under the barbecue on our acid washed patio. How could we remove those stains? Is there a certain product you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated. Heather, March 02, Reply
R1: Dear Heather: It shouldn’t be a problem removing those stains. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE After that, I would like to urge you to apply a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like our MB-4 to help avoiding further staining! It’s one of the best oil-repellent impregnators on the market today! My specialty products are available at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6407: I JUST 3 DAYS AGO HAD A HONED BLACK GRANITE COUNTERTOP INSTALLED IN MY KITCHEN. I TOLD THEM THAT I WANTED A COLOR ENHANCER PUT ON THE SLAB TO MAKE IT AS BLACK AS POSSIBLE. I NOW FIND OUT THAT THEY ONLY PUT ON AN IMPREGNATOR AND WHEN I TRIED TO PUT A COLOR ENHANCER ON TOP OF IT, IT LOOKED VERY STREAKY-AWFUL---WHAT SHOULD I DO??? DO I STRIP THE IMPREGNATOR OFF AND THEN JUST APPLY A COLOR ENHANCER???? I WANT THE COUNTER AS BLACK AS POSSIBLE. WHAT COLOR ENHANCER PRODUCTS DO YOU RECOMMEND? I HAVE ALREADY PAID THE FULL AMOUNT TO THE SUPPLIER/INSTALLER. THANKS. LINDA, March 02, Reply
R1: Dear Linda: Ouch!! Yes, you’re gonna have to strip the impregnator before applying the color enhancer. Since you won’t be able to do it mechanically (it involves special equipment and professional grade honing-powder), which would be the best way to do it, you will have to strip it chemically. It’s a nasty proposition because it involves the use of paint stripper based on a toxic solvent, namely Methylene Chloride, and probably more than one attempt. Open all the windows, wear an appropriate respiratory device, and follow every precautionary direction printed on the can. It’s a shame that you have to do that yourself. If I were you I would give your fabricator a call and ask them – as nicely as you know how – to fix the problem they have created. One the best color enhancer on the market is my MB-6, and I’m not bragging: it’s the truth. (Below find a recent testimonial from one of our satisfied customers.) My specialty products are available at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS , All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6406: I am installing absolute black granite slabs in my kitchen next week. For the backsplashes, I will be installing a tumbled marble which I am worried about . The looks of both materials are perfect but I need a good sealer. How can i GET ESTER-EPOXY SEALER? Do you see any problems with the using the marble or granite as outlined above? March 02, Reply
R1: Dear L. Baker: I don't see any problems with your outline for the use of your stones.We don't make and Ester Epoxy Resin impregnator/sealer any longer. Tothe best of my knowledge, there was just another company making such type of impregnator, and they stopped making it themselves, since the maker of the resin discontinued its production due to lack of demand.
Besides, the latest generation of impregnators, based on Fluoro Alphatic resins are to be considered better than Ester. They're water-carried (opposed to solvent-carried) and are much easier to apply, too! Under the circumstance, I would like to take the liberty to have you
consider purchasing one of my two granite countertop care kits. They have everything you need in one package and they're currently on sale! All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you're an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature
library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)
Q 6405: I just instaled a granite countertop in my kitchen and hours later it had turn dark spots like water spot or wet looking. I used a wonder board on top of my counter then used adhesive( natural stone & marble adhesive ) to lay it. Can you tell me why this is looking like this and what should I do.thanks, March 02, Reply
R1: Dear Brenda: I must assume that you installed granite tiles on your countertop, right? That darkening should lighten up as soon as the setting material finishes curing. Once you get your stone back to its original color, it will be the perfect time to seal it with a good-quality stone impregnator sealer, like my MB-4. I would like to take the liberty to urge to purchase one of my two kits for the proper care of a granite countertop. In there you will find the impregnator and the best routine maintenance products under the sun! They’re both on special sale, too! All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6404: What type of glue would you recommend to repair a soapstone carving? Thank you, March 02, Reply
Q 6403: Hello, I wish I had found this site much earlier, but hopefully its not too late. I am in the process of purchasing a granite counter top. I have already paid for a selection through a national chain of home improvement stores.
I had chosen Santa Cecelia Gold, but after browsing this site I am not sure it is the stone for me. I still have time to change since they haven't made the templates yet, as we are installing a new hardwood floor which requires our cabinets to be removed. I am looking for a stone which requires the least amount of maintenance and is resistive to stains and discoloration's. I think I have ruled out the Santa Cecelia Gold, and Sapphire brown (which by the way my husband stained with some sort of oil), but I am considering Autumn brown, Tropic brown, Imperial Red, Cranberry brown, Coffee Brown, Autumn Wheat, Dakota Mahogany or Poconos Green. Which of these are the least absorbent and are true granites? I am not concerned about quick clean ups by myself, but since my husband is retired and enjoys cooking while I am at work, and very seldom cleans the counter after he is done, I have a real concern about stains. Any quick answers will be appreciated. Thank You. Linda, March 02, Reply
Q 6402: We are in the process of remodeling our kitchen and we are trying to decide between mahogany cabinets or white cabinets. What granite would you recommend for either. Thank you very much for your help! Pepper, March 02, Reply
Q 6401: We recently purchased juperana gold (Granite) or our counter tops and backsplash. We have noticed that the stone stains very easily. Help 1, Debbie, March 02, Reply
Q 6400: I have just had a granite countertop installed in my kitchen. It is Santa Cecelia and the installer tells me it is sealed. I have not had any problems but I don’t cook much. Is there anything I need to be particularly cautious of, for example, setting a hot pan on the granite. Also, what should I clean the granite with? Thank you so much in advance for your response. Michele, March 02, Reply
Q 6399: What is the best granite to use in an island cooktop, where grease is a definite factor? Gloria (Hazel , March 02, Reply
Q 6398: Looking for any information on the strength and general and long term care needed for granite countertops. What pproducts can be used and what is not recommended. Need to know what is acceptable for everyday use as well, I have young child and need to know what type of germ killing products can be used as far as food goes etc.. thanks Holly My granite is Violetta which I believe is from Saudi Arabia, March 02, Reply
R1: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE. Or you can go directly into the “Consumer Products” section and order the Countertop Kit 2: it’s on special right now! Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6397: My designer recommends white statuary cararra marble for my kitchen counter tops. I have several questions.
1. Is is better to have it polished and accept it will get etched from lemon, etc. or would it better to have it honed and sealed? If honed is best, how many times should the installer seal the marble when it is installed? What type of sealer should I request.
2. Are there specific carrarra marbles that oxidize and yellow more than others? How do I determine this?
3. The installers have recommended installing the white marble on top of plywood that is fastened with metal bolts in some places. Does there need to be a protective white layer between the marble and the plywood? Is it possible that the plywood could stain the marble from the bottom up? What about the metal bolts, could they cause the marble to yellow?
4. What is the best way to prevent water spots? Is it a given that water spots will occur around the sink area just from constant use?
5. Can hot pots/pans be set directly on marble?
6. What is the best way to care for a cararra marble counter on a daily basis?
7. Are there any granites that are light and have movement but that are better choices for a kitchen? We live in Southern California - Do you have any supplier recommendations?
8. Is Vermont or Brazillian slate a good choice for kitchen counters? Does it scratch/stain easily? Can it be repaired.
Thank you in advance for your rapid response. We have cabinets installed but no counters because I can not make a decision. Thanks for your help. Julia, March 02, Reply
R1: Dear Julia: Most of your main concerns are legit! But there are just too many questions to be answered on the board. You’re in direct contact with me now. I will be glad to answer all of your questions for the small consultation fee that you will find in the “Educational Literature” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6396: I am a new Interior Design student and I have a lot of questions concerning proper sealing and bonding for various types of stones. I have a Geology degree, so I know the difference and properties of various stones used for construction. But I have to say I went the paleontological way of geology and I don't remember learning about sealing, bonding and finishes for stone installation. (Of course, it's been over 14 years since I graduated college) Where do I begin? Does a text book exist? Does the industry provide unviersal standards? Where do I look? Would a visit to the nearest stone supplier be a start? Stacy, March 02, Reply
Q 6395: Hi, My name is Octavio I'm a Union tilesetter,I just remodeled my kitchen cabinets and counter tops..I installed 12''x12'' Blue pearl granite ..i did a design with absolute black , slab was a little too expensive for me. I installed the tile and it looks beutifull. i then sealed it with some stuff that i got from hard rock tools it's called "Stone Pro". well it's been about 9 months and i noticed that around the sink (field tile) there are little brown marks in the cracks(blue pearl isn't as smooth as absolute it has little cracks in it). I don't know why this is happening i triped into your site and read all the posts and found it to be very uselfull..i quickly ran to the garage and did a the lemon test and it past.. but my question is how did the cracks turn brown? and what can i do to keep that from spreading.?I would appreciate any advice that you can ginve me. I can float a wall and set the stone and set it so flat that you can see your reflection on it but i don't know how to take care of the crap so your ex[ertose in maitenance will be very usefull thank you for your time...Octavio, March 02, Reply
Q 6394: I am looking for some input on profiling 2cm Bulgarian Limestone. It looks honed, and was ordered in 3' x 3' slabs. The designer is requesting some of this material be profiled into crown molding, casement, baseboard, wainscoat trim, for a powder room. Also wrapping a stairwell, using this material on stringers, tread and risers. Is profiling feasible considering it's thickness? ('thinness')? Will the 'dupont' profiling tend to break off? (1/4" edge left) Please advise. Thanks!