R1: Dear Melissa: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of
those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and
get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains
apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does
carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
| Q 6477:
I like
to know which is most suitable for residential floors, travertine
or the polished marble? I have the travertine floor now, I found it
to be too porous and flakes off easily. Is polished marble easy to
maintain in a house? Your reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank
you in advance. Clara, March 11, Reply |
|
R1:
Clara , Marble is generally a more durable choice and is not completely
full holes. Travertine is like swiss cheese and requires an epoxy
fill to give a smooth finish. As the tiles wear new voids appear.
Thanks granitesmith
|
| Q 6476:
Where
can I purchase the MB-5 Granite and More Spray Cleaner? Is that what
I need to use for my new UbaTuba countertops? I live in central Virginia.
Thanks, Mark, March 11, Reply
|
| Q 6475:
I am afraid
I found your website a little late. I remodeled our house and the
master bath has a limestone shower. It is beautiful, but I don't know
what products are safe to clean the areas the develop mold (eg. The
corners and edges). The other bathrooms have marble showers and I
have the same questions. What is safe for cleaning them? Would really
appreciate your help. Thanks, Kathy, March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathleen: My maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Or you can go directly
into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5, MB-3 and MB-9
(the shower-stall team!!). Should you do that, I will send you my
maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Kathy,
2 coats of a product called Stain-Proof from the Dry Treat Company
in Australia will seal your shower. Water will not be absorbed by
the stone or grout. Additionally since the stone will then repel water
mold and mildew will not adhere as strongly and you can use household
bleach to remove it as household chemicals will not harm the seal.
Bob |
| Q 6474:
I'm hoping
that someone can help me - my cat threw-up on our newly installed
marble flooring in the master bathroom leaving an exact dulled outline
of the incident. The flooring hadn't been sealed yet - and I have
no idea how to remove/repair this. The marble is "diano reale"
and has a polished finish. Our house is a newly build tract home so
there's not really help here locally. Any advice/info/suggests (besides
getting rid of kitty) would be Greatly appreciated. Thank you! Bonnie,
March
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Bonnie Aliviado: Have I got good news for
you!! Our “Marble repair kit” will take care of your problem
as easy as 1-2-3! My specialty products are available at our secured
online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS. All our products come with a 100%
money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once
you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles
listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for
the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6473:
We recently
had a granite countertop installed... Paradiso is the name. It is
really beautiful... but the installer put a seam right in the middle
of the area where the undermount sink is installed... so the seam
at the very front of the counter (right in front of the sink) looks
terrible. They have refilled with epoxy and polished, but I am still
not pleased. However, my issue is that they are telling us that this
is the way it is supposed to be and that we are lucky we only have
one seam in our counter ?! My question is ... is this appropriate
installation or not ... should there be a visible seam or not?? Please
advise.... THANKS, Janet, March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Janet Dalessio: I consider seaming by the
sink a disgraceful practice. Unfortunately, however, inasmuch as my
feelings are shared with the most prominent experts in the country,
there are no official industry standards about that. The fact is that
those weak spots should be “rodded”, which is impossible
to do if one seams there. The inherent weakness of the narrow strip
of stone is further magnified by the seam itself. You can’t expect
any invisible seam, especially with a busy stone like Paradiso. However,
seaming is one of those areas where you separate the men from the
boys. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6472:
I had
my kitchen table 3 weeks one morning i spoted white spots on it i
only use mild soap and water & windex whats up with this,
March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Robert: I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final
solution for you. Go into the “Educational Literature” and
look for the “One-on-one” consultation service I offer for
a small fee. (Do NOT buy the article about stain removal: you don’t
have stains, no matter what they look like!!) Or, you can also call
you fabricator and ask them to solve the problem? Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelsit |
| Q 6471:
I have
with a marble floor The house with the problematic floor is nearby
the sea and a lagoon and I think the ffloor underneath the marble
has been badly sealed. Every day the humidity filters back up through
the veins of the marble and ruins the shine of the polish. I hope
you have a product that could remedy to that anoyance. Erick,
March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Erick: Unfortunately I’m not the rental business; therefore
I can’t help you. In fact, what you need to solve your problem
is to rent a jack-hammer, get rid of your floor, and then start anew
using the services of a contractor who know what is doing! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit |
| Q 6470:
I am seeking
information regarding the groesbeek canadian war memorial/cemetery
in gelderland, netherlands. My great grandfather is listed on panel
1 of this memorial for WW2. do you know where I could get a photo
or more information?? a reply would be much appreciated. Bunty,
March
11, Reply |
| Q 6469:
Do you
recommend travertine for a typical bathroom vanity counter top? I
design and manufacture Italian style hand painted and distressed vanities
and thought that travertine might be more authentic than granite or
marble but might lead to future maintenance problems for my customers.
What's your advice? Thanks, Sandy, March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandy: The only reason why there are
maintenance issues with mablr and travertine in a bathroom (vanity
top or anywhere else) can be summarized in one word: ignorance. (Specific
that is.) My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE, Maurizio,Expert Panelist |
| Q 6468:
We are
in the process of installing marble tile in my foyer. We've already
pulled up the old parqet flooring that was there and are now ready
to install the backer board for support. Do we need to remove the
base boards? If so, with the thickness of the tile and backer board
being applied, how can we line the base boards back up with the base
boards in the adjoining rooms where tile is not installed. Also, with
the thickness of these items, how can we line level the marble floor
with carpet in the adjoining rooms? Any advice will be appreciated.
April, Raleigh, March
11, Reply |
| Q 6467:
We are
in the process of choosing tile for our home and like a travertine
tile that is not completely polished - it looks "rustic"
and is not filled. After reading the issues on this site I am rethinking
whether we should chose it or not. Is Travertine not a good choice
for floors - like halls - that will see traffic. I hate to spend a
lot of money on it and have it look terrible. March
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Erica: Providing that you know how to properly
maintain it, travertine is indeed a terrific flooring material, especially
when not polished. The only issue that I have about your particular
choice is the fact that’s unfilled. You understand, I’m
sure, that the holes will collect impossible to remove soil. It’s
no big deal, really: after all it will be mostly dirt; but it all
depends how much the idea bothers you, if any.My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations are available for a small fee
(which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6466:
I am looking
at a tumbled marble tile 6 x 6 and 3 x 6 size for a bathroom floor.
After reading your page I am now concerned about the voids in the
tile. Can I fill these with dark grout and still maintain the look
of color variation that has attracted me to this tile? Also what was
all the talk about sanded and unsanded grout? Seems like I really
need to get to the tips? Thank You, Joe, March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jo-Dee: I really don’t know specifically to which tips you’re
making reference, but I can promise you that in none of my literature
there’s what you’re looking for! :-) Obviously you have
tumbled travertine (marble does not have holes). Yes, you could fill
them with sand-less grout before installation, and then install with
sanded grout (to maintain the rustic look) afterwards. My maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a
small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
|
| Q 6465:
I am happy
to find someone like you who has integrity and the education about
stone to help lay people like me. I’ve read the questions and
answers on your site. Some of the answers do make you wonder if granite
is the right choice for your kitchen. However, I continue to search
for information and then make my conclusion. Your site is the best
I’ve found for what appears to be honest information. I salute
you and your professionalism! am buying granite—but I am making
an educated purchase thanks to you.Sincerely,Mrs. Wright, March
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mrs. Wright: (or is it Mrs. Right??!... Same pronunciation! J) Many
thanks for your kind words. You will need more education than just
surfing the net to make the Wright (!!) decision! No information you
could ever gather will tell you for sure one stone or the other. That
is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make
a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in
the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive
article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small
price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature
It's available in pay-per- download format. What's more, should you
in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an
order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled
to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you
have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me
now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 6464:
We are
remodeling a bathroom and want a slate floor and granite counter top.
But I am anxious having read some of the comments on your web site.
In particular, can you tell me:
1) What are the problems with slate on a bathroom floor?
2) Should I stay away from light colored granite entirely for a vanity
top (eg. Imperial White), or is it OK if I “seal” it? If
so, how often? Can I do it myself? What are we talking in cost for
a 6’ x 2’ countertop? Many thanks for this amazing resource.
Robert, March
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Robert: 1) The problems with slate (it much depends on the salte,
too) are too numerous to list. Suffice it to know that your best bet
is to stay away from it! 2) No, once it’s properly sealed with
my outlandish 10-year impregnator/sealer MB-4 you should not have
any problem at all, especially if you will maintain it with my excellent
cleaning products, namely MB-5 and, optionally MB-13 (be stingy with
the latter: one thin coat once a week will do plenty! It will beautify
your stone and further protect it!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6463: I
have been searching and searching until I found your site. Hope you
can help. Due to a defective flu in my fireplace, the unglazed, tumbled
marble surround is heavy with black soot along the top. Is there anything
I can use to clean it? I have not touched it, hoping to find some
advice. My area is rather rural and I can’t seem to find anyone
knowledgeable on the subject. The installed “has no idea.”
Many thanks.Nancy, March
10, Reply |
| Q 6462:
I have
a simple question that I hope you will answer. There is a Civil War
era cemetery on my property, and a few months ago the electric company
broke one of the limestone headstones (100+ years old). I would like
to repair it as best as is possible. Can you tell me the best way
to glue the headstone back together? Thanks! Angela, March
10, Reply |
| Q 6461:
Great
site – wish I read it before I had sandstone installed in our
powder room. Our contractor installed unsealed grey sandstone (which
had some sparkled elements) on the floor and wall. Subsequently, it
was stained in two ways: water had dripped from an open drain; the
grout stained along all of the edges. We had several stone restorers
in to attempt to buff and clean, following a variety of attempts by
our contractor to clean it with everything under the sun (acids, poultice,
everything). We now have a pretty dull finish, and the stains still
show through. We do not want to scrap the tile, and have considered
painting or staining to get a more “unstained” look. Any
advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Brian, March
10, Reply
|
| Q 6460:
Dear sir,
I like to know which is most suitable for residential floors, travertine
or the polished marble? I have the travertine floor now, I found it
to be too porous and flakes off easily. Is polished marble easy to
maintain in a house? Your reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank
you in advance. Clara, March 10, Reply
|
| Q 6459:
We would
like to like what does "Honed Carb 120" indicate , which
we have been observing in inquiries from buyer's for application of
stone on pavements. Maneesh, March 10, Reply |
| Q 6458:
Hi, I
read that there is a natural stone that glows in the dark. I first
heard of it in Taiwan. Does any of your suppliers have this type of
stone? Warm regards elsie, March
10, Reply |
| Q 6457:
I am a
fabricator & was polihing some black galaxy at work & my 200
grit pad started coming loose on the outer edge of the disc while
i was polishing my top 1/4 inch roll as soon as i heard it slapping
i stopped polishing & dried area to inspect area it was too late
the surface had already been scarred at times this has happened in
the past ive used akemi stone polishing fluid #20-1210 to match surface
. obviously it didnt work this time which doesnt surprise me on black
granite , ive went from my 200 - 3000 grit pads & used a black
buff pad then added polishing fluid & buffed .i still cant seem
to get the surface finish to match . i would cut another piece but
this island piece is over 1/2 slab in finished size . would appreciate
your knowledge on surface finish matching in any situation . as in
for example what do you do if you notice a dull section or spot on
the surface of the granite after installing piece , please keep in
mind that lighting in houses show differently on the stone than fabrication
shop lighting. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. thanks Kenny,
March
09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kenny: I don’t mean to be rude, but there’s no way
anybody can teach you in writing how to spot polish the surface of
a granite slab. I do hold training classes on stone restoration/refinish
and, among other things, I teach how to do just that. My next class
is April 29 through May 1. Read all about it in the “Training
& Consultation” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PAnelist |
| Q 6457:
Hi, We
are looking for contractors who can supply labour for cutting, finishing,
edging, polishing raw granite slabs, under mount sink installations,
flooring preparation, splash installations, bathroom granite installations,
countertop installations.Can you send your estimate/rate for the above
work? Thanks in advance Sam, March
09, Reply |
| Q 6456:
I have
a slate fire surround which has been painted. Can you tell me the
best way to remove the paint and then treat the slate to give it a
good finish. March
09, Reply |
| Q 6455:
Have you
heard that white thassos actually curls? If so, how would you approach
a second level installation, which has water proofing membrane underneath
and has been set with marble and granite thinset from custom. This
install is actually slab material 24" by 24" , 3/4"
to 1 1/4" thick.Any advise is appreciated, Klaus, March
09, Reply |
| Q 6454:
My cousin
has a slate hearth.can you please tell me how he can clean the marks
off. thank you, March
09, Reply |
| Q 6453:
My current
problem stems from a contractor more interested in getting paid than
finishing the job.I have a new patio of about 1500 sqft.of Arizona
Flagstone and other quarry stones from Flagstaff Arizona installed
but it appears very blah. In reading your site it is obvious that
the new patio was never acid washed or sealed. Could you recommend
the correct acid and concentration along with a type of sealer that
can be used in Phoenix, March
09, Reply |
| Q 6452:
Hi Maurizio,
I found your name on the web and have a question for you. I recently
bought an alabaster Art Nouveau buste. She's beautiful, but also very
dirty. How can I safely clean her. She is an amber toned alabaster.
Some of the dirt is probably tobaco smoke, a dirty brown.She also
has some parts of her lace hat missing.I'm thinking of restoring that
using 2-part clear epoxy and some colorants.I tried that before with
marble and it worked quit well. She also has a white line, possibly
a crack running acros her neckline. Is this a problem ? I'd greatly
appreciate your help and advice on these matters. Sincerely, Rick,
March 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rick: I have a product, namely MB-9 that should do the trick
for you. Spray it on and let it sit there for several minutes. That
should clean it already. If not, repeat the procedure and help the
chemical a little bit with a soft-bristled tooth brush.BTW, nice website!!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6452:
What is
the best way to clean a rosa sandstone walkway that has never been
sealed? It has some green mosslike coloration on it and is "dirty"
from ash as a result of California fires.Thanks, LM, March 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
LM: I have a product, namely MB-9, that if used with a power-washer
will do the job for you. Further instructions will be given to you
if you decide to purchase it. My specialty products are available
at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS section of our web
site, All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not
completely satisfied! You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6451:
We installed
12 X 12 limestone in our shower and no one told us to use a grout
releaser before we grouted. When we returned to the store to ask how
to get the haze off, we were THEN told about grout release...little
too late.The last thing we were told to try is Phosphoric acid but
even that isn't taking it off. I obviously don't want to seal the
tiles until the haze is removed. I know you dislike Limestone but
we didn't know before what we know now...Please help! Thank You, Teri,
March 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Teri: Well, there's not much that I cod
about it now! Limestone can't be treated with anything acidic, and
all grout-removers are acidic! I guess that at this point your best
bet is to hire a stone restoration company to grind your grout film
off the stone surface, not to mention the damage you made to it with
the Phosphoric acid! What kind of impregnator/sealer are you planning
to use afterwards and how do you plan to maintain your shower-stall?
You're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 6450:
We have
been looking at granite for our kitchen counter top, to go with our
natural cherry cabinets. For my family the bottom line has to be hardiness
and ease of maintenance since there are often children and teens in
the kitchen. For us this means: 1) least porous; 2) scratch and chip
resistant; 3) fingerprints less obvious would be a plus. We are considering
peacock green, but have also looked at blue pearl, emerald pearl,
and dakota mahogany. I prefer not to have all black. Questions: 1)
By my criteria, what would be the very best granite(s)? How are the
ones I listed? 2) Please list a few others we haven't considered.
Thank you for any replies we receive and also for a wonderful website.
Maria, March 09, Reply
|
|
R1:
Dear
Maria: If the selection (grading) of the slab is good, all the stone
you've listed are two thumbs up! However, I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by
logging on the Educational Literature Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6449:
hi i have
a marble slab table which has 2 silver dollar size chips in it the
shiney part that makes it look polished not the actual marble is there
anything besides refinishing the whole table that we can do thank
you jamie, March
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jamie: Your marble table top has been coated with shellac instead
of being actually polished (as marble should: by abrasion and friction,
like gemstone). It’s typical of the furniture industry. Part
of the shellac came off. Nothing can be done about it. The only solution
would be to have a stone restoration company remove all the shellac
and then polish your stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6448:
I recently
bought a house that has a granite countertop. I clean it regularly
with a generic countertop cleaner. But I can't seem to get it 100%
clean. It cleans the dirt off but there is always streaks & smudges
left over, even if I use Windex. My question is how would I know if
my countertop needs a sealing or a waxing (or anything else) &
what do you recommend. Thank You, Howard, March
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Howard Schwartz: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable)
on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Or you can go directly into the Consumer
Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13.
Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for
free, just for the asking! What’s more, once you get your products,
and I’ll give you some very important tips as the “first
line of attack!” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6447:
Hi...
I was reading your tips and saw that you offer a maintenance guide
for natural residential stone (we're about to purchase and install
a granite countertop for our kitchen and island...and are putting
marble in our shower stall.Would love to have your helpful guide!
Thanks!Jana, March
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jana Reid: My maintenance guidelines are
very important, but the most important part of maintenance begins
before you decide which stone to and which contractor to use! Along
with my maintenance guidelines you should consider getting my article
on how to shop for a granite countertop! The article you're looking
for, as well as all our other titles are available in pay-per-download
format in the "Educational Literature" I want to take the
opportunity to let you know that all our own pay-per-download articles
are available for FREE to our established customers. Should you decide
to give our fine specialty products a try by buying some through our
secured online retail store for a minimum value of $49.00 (before
S. & H. charges) for each article, you will be entitled to a full
refund of the cost of the literature you purchased just for the asking!
Moreover, you could also ask for any other title, FREE of charge,
through the CONTACT US section of our site, by citing: PROMOTION 626
and the date of your order! Please, pay a visit to the CONSUMER PRODUCTS
section of our Sincerely, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6446:
I recently
installed a 4' x 9' black slab (very tight matrix and quite dark)
on the hearth of an special fire feature that will sit on top of the
granite. When I look across the slab under certain light conditions,
there are dark and light lines that are across the entire width of
the slab and travel the entire length. They repeat about every 1.25".
Do you know what they are? Also, black paste shoe polish has been
suggested as a method of removing the lines. Do you have any sense
of the long term affects of the black polish, especially when heat
is present? The quarry rep said he had never seen such lines.
March
09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear: The quarry rep said he had never seen such
lines. Neither did I! Black shoe polish, huh?! … Wow, that sounds
like a “winner” to me!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6445:
I had
new granite installed in my vacation condominium last year. This is
a second home and had not been used for several months (but with the
heat left on). When I visited this past weekend I was horrified to
find a new stain on the granite (beige - Jacaranda). I had left a
new spice turnstile on the counter which had a rubber bottom. Apparently
whether the ocean moisture or the heat 'cooked' the rubber enough
so that a circular blue stain was left. I had paid the installer to
seal the granite (which I'm now guessing was NOT done). Can you give
me the best advice on how to remove the stain and what I would need
to do to truly seal the granite to avoid this for the future? Thank
you! Patty,
March
09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Patty Sue Williams: A stain like that would have happened even
if the stone had been sealed properly. Chances to take it out? I honestly
don't know, but I would give it a shot as if it were an organic stain
first. If that won't work, I would then try something else. When it
comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no trueprofessional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! It does carry
a small price tag, and you can order itthrough our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
. If the treatment for an organic stain won't work, gimme a shout
and I'lltell you what else to do. You're in direct contact with me
now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 6444:
Within
the next week my husband and I must choose a granite for our kitchen
counter. We have a family and children are often in our kitchen and
so we
want a counter that is: 1) extremely resistant to staining - if we
did not have to treat it, that would be great. 2) extremely unlikely
to chip, scratch, or crack. I have been studying your excellent article
- The World's Most Popular Granites. I have learned a lot from it,
but because I am not a scientist, I still have questions.
From
your article, I learned that I should choose a dark granite. I can
use the table to look at water absorption. But here are my questions:
1)
It seems that I should choose magmatic and not metamorphic - is
that correct?
2) Using your table of Quartz x Phagioclase, is the row with Quartz
(0 - 5%) better than those with more quartz? Are there particular
categories that arebetter, for example, Syenite - larvikite.
3) I don't see Peacock Green in your table - that is one of our
favorites. Are you considering it to be a larger grained ubatuba?
Does the larger grain
size mean that Peacock Green is more likely to chip or break? What
do you think of it for our purposes?
4) We don't want pure black. Other granites we have considered are
Emerald Pearl, Blue Pearl, and Dakota Mahogany. How would these
be, according to our
criteria?
5) Can you suggest any other granites that would be extremely unlikely
to stain and extremely unlikely to chip, crack or break? I would
greatly appreciate any advice you could give. I see that you are
a professor and so I know you must be very busy. I
only discovered the Findstone website and your excellent article
several days ago. I am rather horrified to think that my husband
and I were about to make a big purchase based on aesthetics alone,
with little real, practical knowledge.Thank you in advance for any
advice you can give us, and also for your excellent article. Sincerely,
Maria, March 08, Reply
|
| Q 6443:
We are
going to have our granite counters installed in a couple of weeks.
My husband and I are arguing about whether to paint/paper backsplashes
now or after the counters are installed. He tells me that the top
of the 4" backsplash will be caulked thus leaving an uneven edge
to run paint or paper against. He says we'll have to dig out any caulk
to paper or paint. I can't believe this. You mean every time that
I want to change paper or paint I've got to dig out caulk and then
re-do it? HELP!!! Denise,
March 08, Reply |
| Q 6442:
We recently
had tropic brown granite tiles put on our kitchen countertops. Installer
did a nice job. However we have a triple cast iron sink(Kohler) and
when it was reset on he countertop, plumber's putty was used. We now
have a dark ring(oily looking) around the sink. It is about 1/2 inch
wide. I now know plumber's putty is a no no, but too late for that.
I would be interested in your advice on what type of poultice or stain
remover I may try. If there ia a charge, let me know. I have not sealed
the counter yet for two reasons - we are putting a wood trim and carpenter
is not done with it yet and also I am not real sure what to seal it
with. Thanks, Gail, March
08, Reply |
R1:
Dear Gail Greenwood: Fierst you have to remove the sink and plumber's
putty. Second you have
to treat the stain by poulticing it out with a pain stripper based
on Methylene Chloride. About how to properly make a poultice, when
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains",
and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag,
and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6441:
I have
all new marble tabletops in my living room. Glass rings have developed
from what I think was hot coffee cups, even though we used coasters
(cork coasters). Please advise how I can remove them myself. I am
very handy I just need your superior knowledge! Thanks and I will
not ever put another cup on there again. Alex, March
08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Alex: Yes, indeed: I have a product, namely MB-11 that will do the
trick for you! Actually, we have a special “marble repair kit”
(which includes MB-11) that’s currently on sale! No, there’s
no such a thing as a protectant to prevent those kinds of damages.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6440:
I am looking
for a remedy to take away cigerette burn marks off a marble table
top. The top is white. Is there a cure? Thanks, Lynne, March 08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lynne:Not a DIY project, I’m afraid. You can try with 30/40
volume Hydrogen Peroxide (available at you beauty salon), but I dout
that you will get a complete result. A bona fide stone restoration
contractor may be your best bet.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6439:
We have
a new travertine floor and I have tried to clean some small spots
of urine off, but it appears to be etched. Nothing will remove the
stains, and I am concerned that the floor will have to be polished.
Since this is a new home (2 months old) I am worried that I will have
an ongoing problem with acidic liquids. Is there something I can seal
the floor with so that a problem like this can be cleaned up without
leaving spots? March
08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Molly: Are you sure that your "stains" were made by
urine and not, say toilet-bowl cleaner? Urine is slightly acidic (ureic
acid) and it takes some doing to etch travertine. Toilet-bowl cleaners
are marble-killers! Regardless: A) whatever the reason you have to
have your stone re-polished. And, B), there's nothing that you can
apply to it to prevent etching. The good news is that if they are
really urine "stains" we have a product, MB-11 that will
take care of them. If they are toilet-bowl "stains" instead,
they're typically too severe for our product to repair them.If you
need additional assistance, you're in direct contact with me now!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 6438:
I'm a
researcher for the Index (Washington) Historical Society's Exhibitions
Committee. For the 2004 season - Memorial Day thru September - this
year's exhibit theme at the Pickett Museum will center around a company
that was very important and essential to our town back at the turn
of the last century, the Western Granite Works quarry, started in
1904 here in Index by John Soderberg, who also founded Swedish hospital
in Seattle, WA.In this endeavor we would like to educate our visitors
on the importance that building in stone had to the advancement and
progress of the Pacific Coast states - usually this importance was
emphasized strongly to citizens when a wood- framed town burned to
the ground, as Seattle did in 1889.
Most importantly in my research, I am trying to locate tables and
graphs (hopefully with pictures) regarding anything to do with quarrying,
and building stone names, similar properties and differences, and
small sample blocks to use in a "Visitor's Quiz". Any assistance
you might be able to give in this regard would be most appreciated.
Kate, March
04, Reply |
| Q 6437:
We are
in the process of building a home and are trying to decide on kitchen
countertops. We had selected Cambria and then heard (from a Granite
dealer) that people are starting to remove their Cambria because they
aren't satisfied. We could not locate the 'rocking the boat link'
to see if there was any pertinent information on the pros and cons
of Cambria vs Granite. Any input/opinions would be appreciated. Ruth,
March
04, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ruth: I have no idea if your granite dealer is telling the truth,
and, if so, upon what grounds he bases his statement, but it sounds
mighty biased to me! :-)
That said, I personally like natural stone much better than engineered
one. The problem with granite is the scary ignorance (which inevitably
leads to “surprises”) surrounding it displayed by all too
many operators. However, if you get the right “intelligence”
about it, nothing beats a granite countertop!! I did write a very
comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q 6436:
I am looking
for information on reinstalling a tiffany marble shower base (a stress
crack occurred due to an unleveled substrate under the base). Since
the base needs to be replaced do the walls have to be removed? What
material should be used to set the base? Is a pan needed under the
base in a second floor bathroom? What type of silicone should be used
to seal the walls to the base? Any information or contact you could
give me would begreatly appreciated, March
04, Reply |
| Q 6435:
Does marble
stay cooler than other floors, if so how much cooler than ambient
temperature? I have heard that marble stays like 16 degrees F cooler
than ambient temperature. Is this correct.? Sincerely, Charlie,
March
04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlie: Unless your particular marble has some “mysterious
magic properties”, it will be at room temperature all the time.
It may feel cooler because it transmits heat, but that’s all
there is to it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Marble
and most stones have a higher coefficient of heat transfer and so
they seem cooler to the touch. burzin |
| Q 6434:
We have
a marble (or "marble") patio table that is experiencing
some problems with pitting. Small bits have flaked out of it, leaving
small holes. Is this really marble, and no matter what, do you have
any suggestions? We live near Dallas, TX. Thanks, Norm, March 04,
Reply |
| Q 6433:
About
a year ago, our contracter purchased and installed mexican terracotta
tiles in our kitchen. subsequently white spots (calcium deposits?)
broke thru on about 25% or more of the tiles, in some cases 5 or 6
withe spots on one tile. the floor looks terrible. our contractor
says that this is normal for mexican terraacotta tiles. i can't believe
that. what are your thoughts? my belief is that either the tiles were
not sealed properly or inferior tiles were purchased by the contractor.
do you have any suggestions as to how the situation can be corrected?
(ncidently, we had terracotta tiles installed in another room over
20 years ago. no white spots ever appeared on those tiles.) i would
appreciate any advice that you can give me. sincerely, melvin, March
04, Reply |
Q 6432:
I
had a lot of sandstone "tiles" made for my outdoor pool
deck for my new home. They came from Mexico, and I believe it is sandstone,
but I didn't know that when I ordered it. The stone delivered was
more porous than the sample, and it was very brittle. It had areas
in it that looked like it was
made of petrified wood. When they picked up some of the pieces from
the shipment crate, they broke. They installed the remaining tiles
anyway. After installation, they power-washed them, which opened up
more holes in the porous areas. Then they sealed them. Then they put
a white-colored
grout on to fill in the gaps and the larger holes. When they put the
grout on, they got "grout wash" all over almost all of the
tiles. The residue from the grout looked like a whitewash. To remove
it they washed the stones with muriatic acid. Then they power washed
the tiles again. It looked awful.
While we were trying to figure out how to deal with this, some big
brownish areas stated forming. The stone dealer said it is "efflorescence".
He suggested wire brushing to remove the brown (I don't think it will
work), then putting 3 coats of sealer on it. Meanwhile, there are
lots of voids in
the stone that seem to be enlarging, and I still have large "whitewashed"
areas. Is this something you can help with, either in the way of advice,
or is this something you do as a business? Thanks, Jim, March 04,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: After all that "amazing" treatment, is there actually
any of that crappy stone left? Here's the solution of your problem:
First: get a machine gun and kill both the dealer and the installer
dead. Second: get some TNT and blow up the whole stupid floor.Third:
live happily ever after. Nobody will ever file criminal charges against
you. They should actually give you a medal for ridding the world from
a couple of total idiots. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 6431:
I wish
I would have known this before!! I also see a stain... like water
probably? Or oil? Can it be taken out? I've only had it installed
three days ago!! It's a popular color... Balck, light yellow, white
and some brownish-maroon spots every now and then. I was told I should
seal it.... should I ???Any help on this matter, I would grately appreciate
it!! I am cluless and hate myself for it!! Should have read before!!
Thank you. Ann, March
04, Reply |
| Q 6430:
how do
retailers of large pieces of stone ensure a safe environment for their
workers and customers? March 04, Reply |
| Q 6429:
Hi I have
marble in my main living areas and I do not know what is the best
way to clean it. Can I use vinegar with water? I also have saturnia
marble in the master bath and know frow reading in your website how
delicate it is to clean, please let me know if there is a specific
product to clean it with. Currently I use water and a stone cleaner
provided by the builder, but it does not seem to clean the floor,
if I spill water and clean it with a paper towel it shows a ton of
dirt, so it seems that it is not really getting clean. Please help
me thanks Paola, March
04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Paola: Even by thinking of using water and vinegar you're going
to damage your marble!! Vinegar is highly acidic (acetic acid), and
you can't use anything acidic to clean marble! My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations are available for a small fee
(which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE or you can
go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-1.
Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for
free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6428:
Your
site is great! I have some questions and would be grateful for your
opinions:
(1)
I got Amadeus granite slab countertops a couple of ago and don't
actually know whether they were sealed or not. They are wearing
well, though, even though I'm a tough cook and mess-maker. Should
Amadeus granite be sealed? (Assuming it really is granite? ) It's
apparently considered in the green category, but is really black
and grey with a lot of movement, including magenta and white.
(2)
We are just finishing right now a bathroom remodel with 12 by 12
Travertine Durango tiles on the shower surround and half way up
the walls. According to you, this does not have to be sealed, right?
If I don't have to I don't want to, b/c it's an extra expense and
might alter the look of the natural stone.
(3)
The same bath we put in a floor of Empadora Dark marble tiles 12
x 12. Should this be sealed?
(4)
Some of the Travertine Durango tiles seem to have been filled in
with something almost like cement or spackle. And not just little
holes or something; sometimes it looks like they filled in several
inches. Is this kosher? Sarah, March
04, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sarah: Allow me to make a "cute" comment. In my book,
when I have a problem with something that I bought I go back to the
people I gave my money to. If I use products to maintain that certain
something and I see that I don't get anywhere, I go back to the people
who make the products and I gave my money to. How does this sound
to you so far? :-) I'm sure you did all that, and now you come here
asking for help from somebody who ... made no money whatsoever out
of you! :-) Besides, you don't really expect me to badmouth the competition
(SCI), do you? :-) This is my "public" answer. Now, if you
need additional assistance (yes, I do have ALL the answers to your
questions and I'll be glad to help you out), get in touch with me
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6427:
We recently
had a Granite counter tops installed in a new house we are building.
My wife found in the one piece of Granite that is on an island their
are eight to ten small holes about 1/16 to 1/64 in size. She pointed
them out to the installer because they were showing up as white spots
because the sealer had not dried in those spots. She has became very
upset. The installer used a torch and something that looked like a
heavy wax that he melted on to a putty knife and tried to push into
the holes.She asked if he was going to reseal it and he said it didn't
need it.Is their any type of repair that will make it look ok. Is
their something I can apply or are their repair people hoe specialize
in this type of repair. March
04, Reply |
| Q 6426:
If we
have a flat marble tile fireplace wall, can we go over it w/ a different
stone? March
04, Reply |
| Q 6425:
Yesterday,
I had black honed granite countertops installed. (And sealed.) Today,
I read your web site--too late, I'm afraid. There is a white circle,
probably caused by oil from a salad bowl, and numerous palm print
(perhaps our son had just used hand lotion). At any rate, Maurizio
has mentioned a color enhancer. Because a sealer has been applied,
is it possible to have this removed and then have the color enhancer
applied. Am I too late for this? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Betsey, March 03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Betsy: Yes, the impregnator/sealer MUST be removed for the color
enhancer to work. There are two ways to go about it: Mechanically
– which is the best way – by re-honing your countertop with
a honing powder. Only a professional can do that. Chemically, by using
a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (available at paint stores
or home improvement centers). That is a highly toxic substance, and
must be used with all kinds of precaution. To silver lining is that
it will make you see beautiful colors! :-)
Have you fabricator remove the stupid thing that they should have
never applied to begin with! After that, get my unrivaled Stone Color
Enhancer (MB-6) along with a proper cleaning agent (MB-5) for routine
cleaning. .All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee
if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established
customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational
Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does
not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6424:
I discovered
that I left a pumpkin on our "Yellow River" countertop far
too long and apparently the pumpkin was rotting from the bottom. As
a result, I did not notice. After I cleaned and wiped it up with water
and dried it, there is a darker round area, stained, which looks permanent.
Is there anything that can be done? I believe "Yellow River"
is granite. Thanks for any advise you can give. Sincerely Miriam,
March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Miriam: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of
those expensive “Professional kits (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to
do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can
order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Treat your stain as an
organic stain. You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6423:
I tried
your lemon test on my newly (3 days) installed granite. I got no stain
after 20 minutes!! :-) You would think I'm happy.... But ... No....
I do have two stains... (they look like a water satin on a wood table,
except these are dark) What are they? If lemon did nothing!!! What
can this be??? This granite is Yellow, white, Black and some spots
of a brown - redish color. Seems like a very popular color ... at
least in this neck of the woods. What can I do? I know the people
that installed it Did not "seal" it with anything. They
also said, I could just clean it with any commercial countertop cleaner!!
Not true right? Please give me some advice!! Thank you. Ann,
March
03, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Ann: To find out what kind of stains you have you’re gonna
have to help me out a little bit.
Spill some water in different spots of the countertop and let it sit
for 5 minutes or so. Wipe it dry and observe if the spots under which
the water have been sitting has become noticeable darker. Ask you
fabricator if that slab was resined by the factory. Where the stains
you’re talking about there all the time, or did they develop
later on. If the latter is true, what could have caused them? Cooking
oil? coffee?...
Try to describe to me a little better what your stains look like.
(I have no idea how a water stain on a wood table looks like.) You’re
in direct contact with me now! And BTW, you’re right, you do
NOT want to use a generic cleaner on your natural stone countertop!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6422:
We recently
had granite countertops installed in our kitchen but I can't seem
to find any reference to the stone we picked. Do you have any information
on the properties of "Verde Tropical G" as I was told it
was granite I want to make sure that I use the proper maintenance
regimen. Regards, Shaun, March
03, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Shaun: Verde Tropical is a stone coming from Brazil. Is classified
as a gneiss, but I'm not too sure about that. Whether it needs to
be sealed or not is borderline: it depends on the particular batch
of slabs. As for routine care, my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be
refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Or you can go directly
into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally,
some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines
for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6421:
I'm considering
black marinachi with a honed surface for kitchen counters. (Remodeling
a log house - don't want too "refined" a look.) The fabricator
buys polished granite and hones it; tells me it will need sealing
more frequently than once a year. Will a honed surface mark up more
than a polished one? How satisfied have people been with honed surfaces?
What do you think of my choice? What about Jet Mist (Virginia) honed
or polished? It seems very porous to me. Thanks in advance! -Sue,
March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: What kind of a lousy impregnator/sealer does you fabricator
use that has to be applied once a year? And since when does black
granite need to be sealed to begin with? All stone related internet
forums are soaked with the tears of people who had their black granite
countertop sealed and now they’re facing all sorts of “weird
problems” their fabricators don’t have a clue about? (Of
course they don’t: they created those problems to being with!)
And what about honed black granite? Haven’t we learned yet that
to make honed black granite almost manageable you have to apply a
stone color enhancer to it, and that you can’t do that if you
apply an impregnator/sealer? Is there anything else that your fabricator
doesn’t know? Let me guess: they told you to clean your countertop
with water and dish soap! Or is it a glass cleaner?! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6420:
I am a
49 year old professional whom has only recently found my niche in
the “stone” business. I would appreciate any advice as to
how I should proceed with my education. I do not have an order of
importance, i.e. what is the most important knowledge versus what
is less important when trying to sell, treat clients with honesty
and converse professionally with others in the industry. Thank you
for your time and I look forward towards your reply. Respectfully,
Benjamin, March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Benjamin: When it comes to education I can help you a great deal!
Our corporate motto is: Education before any sale! And we do mean
it! Now the question is: what is exactly that you want to do? Are
you planning to start a business selling stone? Let me know. You’re
in direct with me, now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6419:
I have a natural black granite counter top. Sine 2 months I have 4
whiute stains roughly 2 inches in diameter. I have used paultice 'il
mangia macchia' 3 times and the stains are still there. What Can I
do to clean the stains, and then what can I do to prevent it. I appreciate
your advice. March
03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kamran:
I do believe that I have the solution of your problem. However, before
I come up with a diagnosis, I need you to answer the flowing questions:
1. How white are your stains?
2. Was your countertop sealed with an impregnator?
3. Exactly which black granite do you have?
Let me know. You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6418:
I would
like to have Turkish travertine installed in my kitchen, entry, tv
room and bath. How do I go about finding the right person to do the
job. I live in southern Ca and have concrete floors. I've been pulling
up the current tiles, underneath is some kind of gray adheasive. Does
that need to come off, before the floor is installed. I would like
to have it butt jointed, does it have to be installed with the mudd
method, or is there another way. Thanks, CB, March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Clelia: You do NOT want a butt-joint installation!
1/16” grout gap is the requirement for a good installation. For
all the rest, I can’t help you. You’re gonna have to rely
on the reputation of a good contractor. I don’t know anybody
in Southern California. Now, remember, it’s never too early to
think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another
statistic! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
are available for a small fee (that could be refunded to you) in the
“Educational Literature”You’re in direct contact with
me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6417:
I just
moved into a home that has an outdoor slate patio. The former owner
sealed it with god knows what. It is now dark gray and dingy. Is there
a special way to remove the old and what would you recomend to seal
it to keep it looking colorful and clear. Thank you in advance, Joe,
March
02, Reply |
| Q 6416:
Please
provide technical information on slate from Southern India. Density,
compression tests, breaking loads, wear by attrition etc, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6415:
Can a
limestone fireplace be removed and reset, without being damaged, in
order to repair damaged wall that is behind it? March
02, Reply |
| Q 6414:
I live
in south Florida and intend to redo my pool patio. Right now it is
poured concrete that overhangs the pool. It is three inches thick
and full of unsightly deco drains. I want to remove the entire deck
and put in natural stone such as shell stone. Can I lay this on compacted
sand? Or do I need to lay it in cement? Bill,
March 02, Reply
|
| Q 6413:
I'm Italian living in Usa and I am about to update the kitchen in
a house I just bought. I grew up with marble as counter tops in my
house in Italy. (600 years old marble in kitchen) So I'm not sure
why people don't use it here or why contractors tell me not to use
it. (some Americans only want shiny surface but I don't care) Can
you recommend some sellers of marble- or should I get some slabs in
Carrara (my family from there), ship it myself and have someone install
it here. ? How would I do this, taxes etc? Also, is it cheaper to
get it from lapidiary makers (for cemeteries? Thank you- Silvia. Also,
what type of white marble do you recommend, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6412:
I had
just installed a totally black granite on my kitchen countertop. The
countertop based on the lemon juice test, does not need a sealer because
it does not absorb the lemon juice. Now the installer, to make it
shine even better, put some rubbing compound on top of it. Yes, it
looks good at first but then in the kitchen sink area where it is
frequently wiped, the rubbing compound slowly faded in that area making
it not uniform. I think the installer was wrong in putting the rubbing
compound in the first place. How do I remove the rubbing compound?
Do I need to put anything on top of it to make it shine even better?
Thanks for any advice you may give. Judy, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6411:
I have
limestone front porch steps. The top part of the steps has interlocking
limestone. The mortor/concrete is deteriorating. Would you recommend
patching the concrete or rebuilding the steps? Why? I'm being quoted
$400-500 to patch and thousands to rebuild. I'd like to try to patch
it myself but I don't know what to do.March 02, Reply |
| Q 6410:
I have
some ROVER stone VERDE ALPI 300x600 conglomerate (reconstituted) green
MARBLE tiles I am planning to use in a bathroom. Will they need to
be treated as REAL green marble or can I use regular tile adhesive.
Ive asked a lot of people and no one really knows, pleeeeease help.
David. SYD AUSTRALIA. March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David from Down Under: Nobody could give you a final answer to
that, because different makes can be different from one another. But
why do you want to worry about it? Just stay on the safe side and
use white thin set! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6409:
Heard
that Lava stones are used in Sauna Bath, Why so? March
02, Reply |
| Q 6408:
After
a barbecue last night we noticed grease stains under the barbecue
on our acid washed patio. How could we remove those stains? Is there
a certain product you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated.
Heather, March
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Heather: It shouldn’t be a problem removing those stains.
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
“Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our
EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE After that, I would like to urge you to apply
a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like our MB-4 to help avoiding
further staining! It’s one of the best oil-repellent impregnators
on the market today! My specialty products are available at our secured
online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS All our products come with a 100%
money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once
you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles
listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for
the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao and
good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6407:
I JUST
3 DAYS AGO HAD A HONED BLACK GRANITE COUNTERTOP INSTALLED IN MY KITCHEN.
I TOLD THEM THAT I WANTED A COLOR ENHANCER PUT ON THE SLAB TO MAKE
IT AS BLACK AS POSSIBLE. I NOW FIND OUT THAT THEY ONLY PUT ON AN IMPREGNATOR
AND WHEN I TRIED TO PUT A COLOR ENHANCER ON TOP OF IT, IT LOOKED VERY
STREAKY-AWFUL---WHAT SHOULD I DO??? DO I STRIP THE IMPREGNATOR OFF
AND THEN JUST APPLY A COLOR ENHANCER???? I WANT THE COUNTER AS BLACK
AS POSSIBLE. WHAT COLOR ENHANCER PRODUCTS DO YOU RECOMMEND? I HAVE
ALREADY PAID THE FULL AMOUNT TO THE SUPPLIER/INSTALLER. THANKS. LINDA,
March
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Linda: Ouch!! Yes, you’re gonna have
to strip the impregnator before applying the color enhancer. Since
you won’t be able to do it mechanically (it involves special
equipment and professional grade honing-powder), which would be the
best way to do it, you will have to strip it chemically. It’s
a nasty proposition because it involves the use of paint stripper
based on a toxic solvent, namely Methylene Chloride, and probably
more than one attempt. Open all the windows, wear an appropriate respiratory
device, and follow every precautionary direction printed on the can.
It’s a shame that you have to do that yourself. If I were you
I would give your fabricator a call and ask them – as nicely
as you know how – to fix the problem they have created. One the
best color enhancer on the market is my MB-6, and I’m not bragging:
it’s the truth. (Below find a recent testimonial from one of
our satisfied customers.) My specialty products are available at our
secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS , All our products come with
a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore,
once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the
articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE,
just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6406:
I am installing absolute black granite slabs in my kitchen next week.
For the backsplashes, I will be installing a tumbled marble which
I am worried about . The looks of both materials are perfect but I
need a good sealer. How can i GET ESTER-EPOXY SEALER? Do you see any
problems with the using the marble or granite as outlined above?
March
02, Reply |
R1:
Dear L. Baker: I don't see any problems with your outline for the
use of your stones.We don't make and Ester Epoxy Resin impregnator/sealer
any longer. Tothe best of my knowledge, there was just another company
making such type of impregnator, and they stopped making it themselves,
since the maker of the resin discontinued its production due to lack
of demand.
Besides, the latest generation of impregnators, based on Fluoro Alphatic
resins are to be considered better than Ester. They're water-carried
(opposed to solvent-carried) and are much easier to apply, too! Under
the circumstance, I would like to take the liberty to have you
consider purchasing one of my two granite countertop care kits. They
have everything you need in one package and they're currently on sale!
All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely
satisfied! Furthermore, once you're an established customer, you can
have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature
library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend
to the NTC articles.) |
| Q 6405:
I just
instaled a granite countertop in my kitchen and hours later it had
turn dark spots like water spot or wet looking. I used a wonder board
on top of my counter then used adhesive( natural stone & marble
adhesive ) to lay it. Can you tell me why this is looking like this
and what should I do.thanks, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brenda: I must assume that you installed granite tiles on your
countertop, right? That darkening should lighten up as soon as the
setting material finishes curing. Once you get your stone back to
its original color, it will be the perfect time to seal it with a
good-quality stone impregnator sealer, like my MB-4. I would like
to take the liberty to urge to purchase one of my two kits for the
proper care of a granite countertop. In there you will find the impregnator
and the best routine maintenance products under the sun! They’re
both on special sale, too! All our products come with a 100% money
back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re
an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in
our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking!
(The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6404:
What type
of glue would you recommend to repair a soapstone carving? Thank you,
March
02, Reply
|
Q 6403:
Hello,
I wish I had found this site much earlier, but hopefully its not too
late. I am in the process of purchasing a granite counter top. I have
already paid for a selection through a national chain of home improvement
stores.
I had chosen Santa Cecelia Gold, but after browsing this site I am
not sure it is the stone for me. I still have time to change since
they haven't made the templates yet, as we are installing a new hardwood
floor which requires our cabinets to be removed. I am looking for
a stone which requires the least amount of maintenance and is resistive
to stains and discoloration's. I think I have ruled out the Santa
Cecelia Gold, and Sapphire brown (which by the way my husband stained
with some sort of oil), but I am considering Autumn brown, Tropic
brown, Imperial Red, Cranberry brown, Coffee Brown, Autumn Wheat,
Dakota Mahogany or Poconos Green. Which of these are the least absorbent
and are true granites? I am not concerned about quick clean ups by
myself, but since my husband is retired and enjoys cooking while I
am at work, and very seldom cleans the counter after he is done, I
have a real concern about stains. Any quick answers will be appreciated.
Thank You. Linda, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6402:
We are
in the process of remodeling our kitchen and we are trying to decide
between mahogany cabinets or white cabinets. What granite would you
recommend for either. Thank you very much for your help! Pepper, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6401:
We recently
purchased juperana gold (Granite) or our counter tops and backsplash.
We have noticed that the stone stains very easily. Help 1, Debbie,
March 02, Reply |
| Q 6400:
I have
just had a granite countertop installed in my kitchen. It is Santa
Cecelia and the installer tells me it is sealed. I have not had any
problems but I don’t cook much. Is there anything I need to be
particularly cautious of, for example, setting a hot pan on the granite.
Also, what should I clean the granite with? Thank you so much in advance
for your response. Michele, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6399:
What is
the best granite to use in an island cooktop, where grease is a definite
factor? Gloria (Hazel , March
02, Reply |
| Q 6398:
Looking
for any information on the strength and general and long term care
needed for granite countertops. What pproducts can be used and what
is not recommended. Need to know what is acceptable for everyday use
as well, I have young child and need to know what type of germ killing
products can be used as far as food goes etc.. thanks Holly My granite
is Violetta which I believe is from Saudi Arabia, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are
available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE. Or you can go directly into the “Consumer Products”
section and order the Countertop Kit 2: it’s on special right
now! Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines
for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 6397:
My designer
recommends white statuary cararra marble for my kitchen counter tops.
I have several questions.
1. Is is better to have it polished and accept it will get etched
from lemon, etc. or would it better to have it honed and sealed? If
honed is best, how many times should the installer seal the marble
when it is installed? What type of sealer should I request.
2. Are there specific carrarra marbles that oxidize and yellow more
than others? How do I determine this?
3. The installers have recommended installing the white marble on
top of plywood that is fastened with metal bolts in some places. Does
there need to be a protective white layer between the marble and the
plywood? Is it possible that the plywood could stain the marble from
the bottom up? What about the metal bolts, could they cause the marble
to yellow?
4. What is the best way to prevent water spots? Is it a given that
water spots will occur around the sink area just from constant use?
5. Can hot pots/pans be set directly on marble?
6. What is the best way to care for a cararra marble counter on a
daily basis?
7. Are there any granites that are light and have movement but that
are better choices for a kitchen? We live in Southern California -
Do you have any supplier recommendations?
8. Is Vermont or Brazillian slate a good choice for kitchen counters?
Does it scratch/stain easily? Can it be repaired.
Thank you in advance for your rapid response. We have cabinets installed
but no counters because I can not make a decision. Thanks for your
help. Julia, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Julia: Most of your main concerns are legit! But there are just
too many questions to be answered on the board. You’re in direct
contact with me now. I will be glad to answer all of your questions
for the small consultation fee that you will find in the “Educational
Literature” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6396:
I am a
new Interior Design student and I have a lot of questions concerning
proper sealing and bonding for various types of stones. I have a Geology
degree, so I know the difference and properties of various stones
used for construction. But I have to say I went the paleontological
way of geology and I don't remember learning about sealing, bonding
and finishes for stone installation. (Of course, it's been over 14
years since I graduated college) Where do I begin? Does a text book
exist? Does the industry provide unviersal standards? Where do I look?
Would a visit to the nearest stone supplier be a start? Stacy,
March
02, Reply |
| Q 6395:
Hi, My
name is Octavio I'm a Union tilesetter,I just remodeled my kitchen
cabinets and counter tops..I installed 12''x12'' Blue pearl granite
..i did a design with absolute black , slab was a little too expensive
for me. I installed the tile and it looks beutifull. i then sealed
it with some stuff that i got from hard rock tools it's called "Stone
Pro". well it's been about 9 months and i noticed that around
the sink (field tile) there are little brown marks in the cracks(blue
pearl isn't as smooth as absolute it has little cracks in it). I don't
know why this is happening i triped into your site and read all the
posts and found it to be very uselfull..i quickly ran to the garage
and did a the lemon test and it past.. but my question is how did
the cracks turn brown? and what can i do to keep that from spreading.?I
would appreciate any advice that you can ginve me. I can float a wall
and set the stone and set it so flat that you can see your reflection
on it but i don't know how to take care of the crap so your ex[ertose
in maitenance will be very usefull thank you for your time...Octavio,
March 02, Reply |
| Q 6394:
I am looking
for some input on profiling 2cm Bulgarian Limestone. It looks honed,
and was ordered in 3' x 3' slabs. The designer is requesting some
of this material be profiled into crown molding, casement, baseboard,
wainscoat trim, for a powder room. Also wrapping a stairwell, using
this material on stringers, tread and risers. Is profiling feasible
considering it's thickness? ('thinness')? Will the 'dupont' profiling
tend to break off? (1/4" edge left) Please advise. Thanks! March
02, Reply |
| Q 6393:
I recently
put marble flooring all over my house including the bathroom and kitchen.
i accidently dropped and broke a bottle of vinegar that then stained
aggressively, it was a big stain. the shine has disappeared which
makes the color tone look dead on the marble, another way of saying
it is that it's just plain ugly. i need to know what the best thing
would be to remedy this unfortunate problem. thank you for your time.
March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jimmy: And, if I may ask, who was the “genius” who
decided to put polished marble in a kitchen? :-)What you have is not
a stain at all: it’s rater a mark of corrosion that the acidity
of the vinegar (acetic acid) produced on the surface of the stone.
It’s also called: acid etching. Just about everything you can
think of and that you will spill on your kitchen floor will do that
to your marble. Any solution? Yes, two actually (ain’t life wonderful?
Most of the times you have more than one option!): A) every time you
spill something on your floor you hire a professional stone refinisher
who will provide to resurface your marble by honing and polishing
it. B) You rip out the whole stupid thing and install something more
practical instead. Too bad I can’t try to sell you my maintenance
guidelines or any of my products because they couldn’t do anything
about helping you out. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6392:
I have
several slate chalkboards. I appears that no one sells these anymore.
Do you have any oil(s) that can be applied to this surface to keep
it from drying out, but will still let it hold chalk? I would really
appreciate any help you could offer me. josh, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6391:
I like
to know which is most suitable for residential flooring, travertine
or polish marble? I have travertine floor in my house now. I find
it to be too porous and flakes off. I like the polish look of marble
but wanted to know if it is high maintenance as floor? You reply will
be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Clara, March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Clara: Travertine is not porous at all.
If it flakes there’s got to be some serious issue which can’t
be evaluated without a physical inspection. Travertine and marble
a pretty much the same, maintenance-wise. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
Expert Panelist |
| Q 6390:
My limestone
is relatively "soft." It has a dull and irregular sheen
with some parts shiny and others dull. There are shiny portions on
the stone around some of the grout seams also so I thought the installers
may not have cleaned it properly before sealing. I was told to re-hone
and seal it but I would like to try a polish or other simpler and
less expensive possibility first. can you suggest something? Well,
I wish had seen your website before installing limestone. I probably
would have gone with the honed marble! Jerry, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: No panacea on a bottle (mine or anybody else’s) will
even come close to solving your problem. Unfortunately there’s
no way around it: you need to hire a professional stone refinisher
to re-hone your floor using a good-quality honing powder. Honing with
diamond pads may still gives you highs and lows in the finish, not
mention swirl marks. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6389:
WHAT PAINT
OR WAX WOULD YOU USE TO COLOUR SLATE E.G. PAINT A DESIGN ON SLATE
. RICHARD, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6388:
Thanks
for the nice granite website that you put together, and it is very
informative. I have a question regarding the radiation of granite.
Is there any US goverment regulation on the radiation limit of commercial-grade
granite? For example, if I want to import some granite from other
countries, do I have to meet a certain limit on its radiation level?
Thank you very much for your advice! YY Huang, March 02, Reply |
| Q 6387:
I would
like more information regarding the MB-5 Cleaner. I recently installed
Champagne black granite in my kitchen and have marks, steaks and what
looks like it may be adhesive, on the counter that won't wash off
with soap or water. It will rub off with vigorous rubbing with my
finger, but I don't want to clean the whole counter this way. Is the
MB-5 cleaner what I need to these off? Should I clean the ceramic
tile backsplash with this as well? ...T, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Teresa: I already answered to your other posting. The additional
information you're supplying makes me think than MB-5 will work, although
you may have to use it several times before you can remove completely
whatever it is that's sitting on your stone. Sure, using soap and
water will make matters worse because of the accumulation of the soap
film on the stone surface, but I still believe that there's more than
just soap film on your countertop. While using MB-5 scrub with one
of those silvery scrubbing pads available at your local supermarket.
NEVER use brown or green scrubbing pads: they WILL scratch your stone!
Yeah, why don't you send me a picture? You're in direct contact with
me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6386:
I recently
installed slate on my fireplace wall which is 15feet high. I used
a sealer that has a sheen but I realized I wanted a natural flat look.
Im extremely concerned and dissapointed with it and would really like
to bring it back to a natural look. I worked so hard on this and to
now have a look that I dont want is very dissapointing. Would you
be able to help. Please help, Daniel, March
02, Reply |
Q 6385:
Our company
are import marble&granite and installation of stoneworks, We are
so many years import,,but this time we are first time cheating,,,
Last two month ago,,,we go to Italy and checking marble(Bottichino
Semi Classico) and sign all everythigs after we open L/C at sight
about 2,500m2,,,cut to size,,, And after they send to us and we are
clearance custom and after arrived our site,, and checking marble,,,but
thye send to marble are all rubbish,,,
So,, i'm make decide,,return back to Italy,, But they are already
LG,,,,,So,,i want to claim for that Italy company(They are has a quarry)
Please let me know, How can i claim for them? I will wait for your
advice, Thanks, Shim, March
02, Reply |
| Q 6384:
I recently
suggested for a friend to use Travertine (the color is "Global
Yellow"...) on the entry area of his restaurant; by the way,
the front area where the TR is going to be installed is only 280/sf.
That said, when I picked up the 28 boxes of Global Yellow TR tiles
at a local tile and marble company, I noticed when I opened one of
the boxes, that some of the tiles finishes were not "clean",
it was rather dullish and had rough "darkish" spots here
and there...does not look like the sample that I was given to show
my friend. All in all, my concern is how do I properly seal this product
from this moment on since my friend's contractor already installed
the entire entry area with this product? The lady who sold me this
said it was sealed already, BUT that I still NEEDED to seal it again...I
had not a clue, nobody told me this before they sold me this product!
Please help! Sincerely,b.pham, March
02, Reply |
R1:
Dear B. Pham: I never heard of this “Glabal Yellow” travertine.
From your description it appears to me that it was not properly polished
in the factory.
What’s you idea of a “sealer?” If you’re making
reference to a stone sealer (a.k.a. impregnator) A) polished travertine
does not need to be sealed, and B) it will do nothing for the finish
of the stone. Only a topical finish like my MB-8 in conjunction with
its team-mate MB-10 could somehow improve the looks of the stone and
offer a valid protection against foot traffic. Keep in mind, however,
that’s an ongoing maintenance product and that maintaining polished
travertine in an environment like that (the front area of a restaurant)
is an up-hill battle. You’re right: you had not a clue. Which
begs the question: why did you suggest your friend to use that material?
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6383:
We are
currently in the process of choosing a marble for our floor- living
room, foyer, dining and family room. Since ours is a small family
and we are pretty good at maintenance, heavy traffic shouldn't be
a problem. We are having trouble deciding between crema marfil and
perlato. The perlato that we like is called perlato 2B (I haven't
heard of it before), the other alternatives available are perlato
royal and perlato sicilia and we are equally happy with either one
of them. Would you recommend crema marfil or perlato for our apartment
floor? What are the drawbacks for either one of them? Thank you for
your time. Anu, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anu: There's no difference between Crema Marfil and the Perlato.
2B should indicate a lower grade. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q 6382:
You certainly
know your stone! We are considering installing Uba Tuba 12 X 12 tile
on our kitchen counter top. From reading other questions on the website,
it looks like this product will not require sealing and is a good
choice for a counter top. I want to prevent the problems I read on
the forum. Do you have any specific suggestions for me? Do you hate
the idea of installing tile like so many fabricators seem to? We plan
to use a silicone sealer as our "grout." I appreciate you
sharing your experience! Kathy, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Well, if it’s a budget consideration, there’s
not much that can be said about it: there’s a huge difference
in price between tiles and slabs, especially if you can handle the
installation of the tiles yourself. No wonder why fabricators don’t
like the whole idea! :-) If you grout with color-matching caulking
you should be all right. Now,
remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer
(when end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and dish
soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling
point at the speed of light!). Don’t become another statistic!
My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation are available
for a small fee (that could be refunded to you) in the “Educational
Literature” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6381:
My fiance
& I are building a new home and thinking of installing travertine
in our master bathroom and shower area. Is travertine as bad as it
sounds? What other material do you recommend? Donielle, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donielle: And how bad does exactly travertine sound? The reason
why I am asking is because for all I know travertine is not bad at
all for applications like the ones you’re reporting! But then
again, what do I know? :-) My maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be
refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Through them you will
learn a lot about marble and travertine in a bathroom! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6380:
Granite,
Stone or Tile? My contractor suggested I put granite counters in my
kitchen instead of tile & grout (for only a couple hundred $ more).
This is my Condo Rental unit that I'm upgrading to increase rent in
L.A. (am not selling). I need something both durable and low upkeep
as I'm concerned tennants won't upkeep stone like I would in my home(e.g.
sealing, coffee stains or cleaning agents). Please provide input -
should I be using granite vs other stone, or should I just go ahead
with tile? March
02, Reply |
| Q 6379:
What is
the lemon juice test that I see mentioned on this website Thanks,
Renee, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Renee: Oh, come on now! You don’t know my little lemon juice
test??! … You must be the last person left on earth not to know
it!! :-) Just kidding! There’s a direct link to it on the sidebar
menu of “Expert Advice” page of findstone.com. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6378:
I was
cleaning the sink at my mothers house, and it had bottles of face
wash and such sitting on it. When I picked up two of them there were
to perfectly round greenish blue stains, and nothing seems to remove
them. They almost seem like a ring on a wooden coffee table that has
set in. do you have any advice on how i can remove them, and if not
do you know why this happened. sincerly, stained, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
“stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry
a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6377:
We are
considering slate for both the kitchen countertops and as flooring
in the foyer. I understand that you do not like slate in the kitchen,
but could you elaborate as to why? If slate is appropriate for the
foyer, should it be sealed or not? I wasn't clear on this point from
your posts, because there were also impregnators and Color Enhancers,
so the whole thing was rather confusing to me. Apparently the whole
issue seems to be linked to which area of the world you buy slate
from, which was rather eye-opening. Maybe I should just stick to granite,
which seems to be much less fussy. :-) Thank you in advance for your
advice. I do appreciate it. Take care, Gary, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary: No matter where it comes from, slate scratches easy and
nobody can fix those scratches. Slate etches, too, and nobody can
fix those etches. As a matter of fact, I don't consider slate suitable
in a foyer, either! Roof, black-board, pool table. End of story! Is
that enough of an explanation for you? :-) Stick to granite! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6376:
I have
been reading some of the questions and answers and am afraid I am
in trouble. My home is three years old and has limestone throughout.
It also has in-floor radiant heat. It is beautiful but some of the
stones, especially in the high traffic areas, have popped there fills.
I have spoken with a local company and they do not fill outside of
there place of business. They also said I should have sealed the high
traffic areas three or four times. I know I can chisel out the stones
and replace them but I am worried that it will also happen to the
replacements. My contractor suggested I fill the holes with grout.
That does not sound right. I do not know anything about a vapor barrier.
They did paint on something over the light weight cement to prevent
cracking. I also used the lime stone in the shower. While I am sealing
should that have multiple coats sealed in the shower? Thank you for
your time. Martha, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Martha: For what I can understand by reading
your report, you don’t have limestone: you rather have travertine.
Which is good. Having sealed it wouldn’t have prevented the popping
of the filler one bit! Sealers for stone, a.k.a. impregnators, are
below surface sealers, not topical as the word sealer may suggest.
Filling the holes with sand less grout is the way to go. Get the modified
type, mix it with latex additive even if the bag tells you to only
use water, keep it a little bit on the thick side and push it inside
the holes using a flexible putty knife, making sure to have it “mound”
the holes. Don’t worry about the cleaning now (just sponge the
worst in between the holes). The following day you will “shave”
the grout flush with the stone surface using a razor blade, with which
you will also remove every residue of grout off of the stone surface.
Finish the cleaning up with a plastic (or silver) scrubber and some
of my MB-5 spray stone cleaner. About the impregnating/sealing of
your shower stall, if the travertine tiles are polished (shiny) do
NOT seal them. If the are hone-finished instead (satin-finish) one
application will do plenty (of course, you will be using my outlandish
MB-4!!). Travertine, contrary to popular misconception is NOT a porous
stone. All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not
completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established
customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational
Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does
not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expoert
Panelist |
| Q 6375:
Could
you tell me the difference between Italian Marble and Turkish Marble.
Any info will be greatly appreciated. Barbara, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barbara: I want to assume that you’re talking about the
so called “Saturnia” stone, which is cross-cut travertine.
If that the case, the difference between the Italian travertine and
the Turkish one is that the former is quarried in Italy, while the
latter is quarried in Turkey! Travertine is one of the most consistent
stones all throughout the planet, because of the peculiar way it was
formed. There’s no substantial difference between the inherent
quality of the Italian travertine and the Turkish one. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6374:
Your website
is really a great resource. Thanks.My 6 month house remodel was down
to the final task...tiling a fireplace hearth. We used 12" x
12" granite tiles called dark gold cashmere (they're really quite
light, almost a yellow). My contractor used a gray adhesive...some
kind of super bonding adhesive...I don't have the manufacturer off
hand. Anyway, after about 3 hours the tile turned a darker color,
almost a green. From my research it appears to be the mositure from
the adhesive bleeding through. My questions are simply this....Is
there a reasonable chance this will fade or should I cut my losses
and tear it off and start over. If I tear it off, are the tiles worthless?
If I leave them on in the hopes of it drying and fading is there a
way to speed the process. Tim, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tim: I've got bad news for you. If the
setter used adhesive, it's terminal. He should have used white thinset.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6373:
We are
buying a new house and the builder has installed 'Baltic Brown' granite
on our kitchen countertops. In two places, we noticed scratches -
first scratch is about 1.5in. long and the depth of the scratch is
less than 1/16 of an inch. The second scratch is about 0.5in long.
We know that it was not damaged during installation.What can we request
from the builder. Is it a scratch or nick that goes all the way down
the the height of the granite counter. Will it damage the granite
with oil seepage ? Can they do some fill-in with any material to seal
it ? or do they have to replace it. pl. let me know. We are planning
to close by next week thanks, Bk. March
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear K: Are you sure they are scratches and not
natural fissures in the stone? To make sure I suggest you get hold
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor and consult with them
before reaching any conclusion. Now, remember, it's never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject
that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many
of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about
it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that they
were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner,
my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!).
Don't become another statistic! My maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation are available for a small fee (that could be refunded
to you) in the "Educational Literature" Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6372:
Our house
is now 27 years old and the marble (dull, not shiny kind) vanity tops
in the bathrooms have gotten sort of 'gray' over the years and there
are stains on them. Is there a solution to cleaning them as we are
in the process of getting house ready to sell. Would like them to
be 'spruced up' a little. Thank you, Millie, March
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mildred: The only piece of advice I can give you is to get hold
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor.“Sprucing it up?”
… I don’t think so! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q 6371:
I have
purchased tumbled slate tiles for my bathroom floor. I would like
installation advice on any prep work needed, type of cement, the type
of grout, when to seal the tile and how many applications of sealer,
March
01, Reply |
| Q 6370:
I moved
from Philly to Florida a few years ago. I'm putting in a Granite (New
Venetian Gold) countertop and I have a few reservations about my potential
contractor. He says he will "seal and wax" the countertop.
What is waxing? I haven't been able to pin down a written guarantee.
What should I exect as far as guaratees go? He says he will provide
me a sampe of "my slab" but I haven't been able to arrange
to see "my slab." Should I demand to see what the contractor
will put in my home before I give him any money? I hope you have time
to answer. You appear to be a glimmer of hope in a sea of misinformation.Thanks
in advance from a future customer (if I have the guts to go though
with the purchase.) Michael. March
01, Reply |
R1:
Dear Michael: You know what? I like your fabricator already! First
off: I like the idea that he will be selecting the slab for you. I
mean, admit it: how would you know to select a "good" slab?
You may be able to select a "pretty" one, I grant you that,
but "good"?... I highly doubt it! Second, he's going to
seal and wax it at his shop. That's very good, too! If the sealing
with an impregnator is done at the shop chances are that it will be
done right and not in a hurry, and as many times as necessary. The
waxing is a good procedure for that particular stone, because in many
instances it has the tendency of losing some surface grit. Waxing
will help a great deal preventing that. All in all, for the little
report I've gotten from you, I feel that you're in good hands, but
... you never know! I did write a very comprehensive article on "How
to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you
all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It will also tell you in details why
I don't consider the customer picking the slab as a smart practice.
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on
the Educational Literature . It's available in pay-per- download format.
What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products
a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges,
you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the
asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct
contact
with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6369:
I have
two sets of exterior limestone stairs at a home I recently purchased.
One set is ok except for some minor surface cracks in the stones.
The other has settled and is in need of being reset. I got a bid from
a stone mason who bid the job of repairing the steps by quoting the
replacement all of the limestone to the tune of $10,000. I believe
I can repair the staircase by removing the individual stones and resetting
them. There are approximately 6 stairs which are each individual rectangular
stones. The base of the staircase is an approximately 6' by 4' platform
that has some cracks. It is big enough that I don't believe it can
be moved easily. I want to buy a chain hoist and canvas straps to
lift the stones out of the way, lay paving blocks or something similar
to fix the base and then place the stone stair pieces back in place.
I would like to know what I should use as a foundation for the stones.
I was thinking of using a fine rock base with a layer of mortar. After
resetting, I would assume I should fill all the seams with mortar
to finish the job. Also, starting from the bottom, should each stone
overlap the previous or should they just be very close? -che' March
01, Reply |
| Q 6369:
I was
reading your advice on the web and wanted to get with you before buying
my countertops. I am interested in a black granite and wondered which
color was the most durable and stain resistance. I don't want a countertop
that requires a lot of maintenance. Sealing once a year is okay but
not a monthly thing. UGH!!! Also, would a product like Silestone,
Avanza, or Zodiak be better than natural granite. I don't believe
they require any maintenance. Please let me know what maintenance
would be required on granite and what products should be used. Thanks,
Kathy, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Black Absolute Granite is among the most bullet-proof
material that money can buy. Maintenance-wise is easier that Silestone,
Ceasarstone, etc. for as long as you refuse to have it sealed! The
vast majority of the maintenance problems related to black granite
countertops are connected to the fact that the fabricator applied
an impregnator/sealer to it believing that's granite. You will still
be much better off using specialty cleaning products for routine maintenance,
like my MB-5 and, optionally, MB-13 but that will be it! My maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a
small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
. Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order
some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will
send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6368:
We are
going to put a blue pearl granite counter top in our kitchen. After
reading many of the posting on your site I've learned that some "granite"
benefits from sealing and some should never been sealed. Is blue pearl
a type of granite that requires sealing? Are there any special 'gotchas'
with this type of granite? Deborah,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Blue Pearl is one of the most enjoyable commercial granites that money
can buy! It usually doesn't need to be sealed, and if it does not,
you do NOT want to have anybody seal it! However, I seldom make final
statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging
on the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per-download format.What's
more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a
try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges,
you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the
asking! Should you have any other question, ask away Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6367:
I am trying
to find out the best way to maintain my granite. I have peacock green
and I was told I could clean it with Cinch which is a glass cleaner.
I am thinking twice about that now after I saw a reply you gave to
someone on the site. What can I use to maintain everyday. Also how
often do I need to polish it if any. Nancy, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nancy: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section
and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that,
I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking!
You’re in direct contact with me, now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
Bertoli, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6366:
Recently
has get a contractor to do dry polishing on the marble floor(non-broken;
thick; white and gray uneven color marble floor done by previous house
owner).
After
polishing the effect is: -1) Seen more prominent:- shinning particle
and scratches.
2)
Found more defects:- Quite a few small and round shape white dots
(the marble is in gray and white color mix) and some of the white
dot on the marble was touched with a feel of not very smooth surface.
Question
are:-
1) What is causing the white spots? - Will defects and scratches
become more easily spotted after polish? - Else wld the defect is
caused by the polishing process. Like the type of chemical used
for polishing.
2) The proper dry polishing on marble floor should be done in what
approach? What chemical shld be used for
dry polishing?
3) Is it good enough to clean/mop the marble floor with water in
order to remove dust particles when the floor:- is non-greasy or
not oily? What to use if the marble floor is greasy. Thanks for
your kind assistance. Rgds, PW, March 01, Reply
|
| R1:
I know exactly what your problem is and I have all the answers for
you. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me.There's
a little $25.00 consultation fee involved (as you will be told), but
I'll be glad to help. What's more I will even tell you how to get
all of your money back! What more do you want from me? :-)Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 6365:
I would
love to know what this countertop is...I was told it was called Pietre
Cardoza (sp?).It was greenish grey with white veining. One person
said it was italian soapstone, another said itwas honed granite. Do
you know what it would be? And, if so, is it good for a kitchen countertop?
Thank you! Nancy, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nancy: Geez, them people sure know their
stone!! Pietra to Cardoza, is neither! It’s an Italian sandstone
quarried near Cardoza, Italy. There’s no soapstone in Italy!
It’s quite an enjoyable hard stone for a kitchen countertop,
but, like all sandstone, it’s quite absorbent. (Soapstone is
very soft but totally liquid proof). Therefore the use of a proper
impregnator/sealer and its proper application are paramount! Our MB-4
is a very good impregnator for those kinds of stone and three applications
(with an interval of 24 hours in between each application) will be
enough. MB-4 comes with a 10-year limited warranty. All our products
come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied!
Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have
any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library
for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC
articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6364:
Hi I was wondering how the stone originates is it naturally hard or
does it get that way when exposed to sun and air.? My brother searches
fields for indian artifact and he thinks he found soap stone but is
not sure. Ant info you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Eva, March
01, Reply |
| |
| Q 6363:
We're
considering using honed baltic brown granite for the countertops in
our kitchen. Are their any concerns about using a honed baltic brown
that we should be aware of before proceeding? Eric March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eric R. Harnish: Honed Black Granite (no matter shich one) does
represent a maintenance issue that can be summarized in two words:
"SURFACE SOILING." What follows is the answer that I gave
to a different inquirer and that I kept on file for copy and paste
purposes. "Dear Inquirer: There are indeed different opinions
on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous
consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance issues. The
problem with honed black granite is that it is not ... well, black
any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become
black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your
slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the
stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color
and the stone turns grey, but when you wet it ... here it is black
again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface
with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of
dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that
I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean
those stains off, while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice
them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will
not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent
liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black
honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining
of its surface.Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the grey!
If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop
(such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator sealer). it will turn
it permanently black, while preserving the hone finish. In that way,
the surface staining problem would be minimized. Any other questions?"
Expert Panelist |
| Q 6362:
I have
a newly installed travertine floor which still appears chalky and
dull. I want to clean it before applying a color enhancer. How and
what product do i use to clean it properly from the grout and chalky
appearance? What do i look for in a color enhancr? Thanks, Christina,
March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Christina: I detect a lot of confusion in your thoughts. What
is exactly that you want your floor to look like? If you want it nice
and shiny, neither a cleaning product, nor a color enhancer will ever
do the first thing about it. You would need a professional stone refinisher.
Besides, color enhancers don’t work well on travertine. Does
it turn obviously darker when wet? If the answer is no, then a color
enhancer won’t do anything for you.Let me know. You’re in
direct contact with me, now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. Expert
Panelist |
Q 6361:
Hi, my
name is Sandro and my wife and I are planning our dream home in Toronto,
Canada. Our architect is promoting a limestone exterior facade and
my reservations are the following:
1) will the limestone stand up to northern climates and will the stone
be effected by freeze and thawing?
2) is the limestone too soft a material to be utilized as an exterior
cladding (not just accent moldings)?
3) will the limestone discolor over time?
4) will the walls require regular maintenance such as sealing?
Your comments would be greatly appreciated. Please advise, Sandro,
March 01, Reply |
| Q 6360:
I'm trying
to decide between a ceramic tile that looks an awful lot like travertine
or going with the actual travertine. I love the versai pattern. I
do have a lot of kids running in and out of the house and I live by
the beach so after reading the following problems it sounds like the
travertine may be a bit delicate for our situation. What do you think?
Or do you have suggestions for how it should be installed or sealed.
Stephens, March
01, Reply |
| Q 6359:
I am updating
my kitchen counters & want to go with Granite. My question being........what
is the best least likely to show stains & or imperfections. I
have 3 small children & I am a sloppy cook. I have 83 square feet
to do so whatever I do it will be very expensive. I don't want to
make a mistake. The granite place I'm working with pretty much yeses
me on everything & swears that if it is sealed then you have no
problems. My neighbor (with granite) says she has problems with grease
stains (hers are not sealed on recomendation from her installer).
Is it best to go with a darker black/brown/green color? I really like
the St Cecilia...but I forsee a red KoolAid spill & that scares
me. Thanks for helping me...whatever information you can offer would
be much appreciated. Sharon, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon in Oklahoma: Certain granites need to be sealed real bad,
certain others only moderately, and certain others not at all. (And
the latter will created problems if sealed nonetheless.) Obviously,
your friend’s fabricator didn’t know the difference! I hope
the fabricators you’re talking to do. But it’s a tough call.
I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make
a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in
the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive
article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small
price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature
. It's available in pay-per- download format. What's more, should
you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing
an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be
entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should
you have any other question, ask away Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 6358:
I love
the look of travertine/limestone and would like to have a bathroom
vanity top made, however after visiting your site, I get the idea
that travertine is not good for much of anything because of its porosity
and PH sensitivity. Is that true or can proper care and installation
make this a suitable choice? Rob, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rob and Gail: pH sensitivity, yes. Porosity, no. Travertine is
the densest stone among the calcite-based one. Many people are quite
happy with their polished marble vanity tops, once they get to know
what pitfalls to avoid and how to take care of them. My maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installation will tell everything
about it and are available for a small fee (which could be refundable)
on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts").
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 6357:
We recently
had a bathroom remodeled with 16 x 16 honed travertine tiles. Unfortunately,
it appears that when the plumber installed the toilet, he dragged
it across the floor, scratching several tiles. Our first preference
is to have these buffed out if it is possible? Or will we have to
have the scratched tiles replaced? Or, which is the cheaper/easier
solution? Thank you so much! I will bookmark your page! Lynn, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
The least expensive way is to have a professional stone restoration
company come out and re-grind and hone your floor. Now, do you know
how to take proper care of it? :-) My maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation are available for a small fee (which could be refundable)
on the side bar menu of this very page (“Maurizio’s Dos
and Don’ts”). Or you can go directly into the “Maurizio’s
Products” link and order some MB-1. Should you do that, I will
send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
|
| Q 6356:
Hi, We
recently had Yellow Fantasy granite countertops installed. Our installer
used a silicone or latex caulking between the countertop and backsplash.
It isn't a very good color match with the stone and looks like someone
painted a yellow line around the bottom of the backsplash. Is there
anyway to color the caulking to make it blend better? Also he said
that the caulking was better than grout? Is this true? Thanks, Michelle,
March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michelle: Yes, caulking is much better than grout. Can you change
its color? No, you can't. BTW way, do you have good info about properly
take care of your beautiful countertop? My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations are available for a small fee
(which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE. Or you
can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some
MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send
you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6355:
I'm an
old plumber with other craftman skills. I am finishing the interior
of my house and am at the fireplace. Mason coming to surround with
stone. I found a slab of craborchard sandstone at a local dealer that
I want to use for the hearth. I need advise on best way to set in
place and keep it there! Cleaning of stone. What to seal it with?
Can small nicks and" cuts" be filled? I'm sure that it stains
easily so we will be careful. Stone is 72"x20x2.5"--need
to cut 41/8th"off--best way to do that. Let me know how I can
get your advise--just read your burial of free! Thank you much Maurice
Gouin 42 collins brook road, Helen,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Maurice: If you can install bricks you can install that thing,
too! Just make sure to use white thin-set. As for sealing and cleaning
your stone, I would encourage you to use my stone impregnator MB-4,
and my MB-5 for routine cleaning. My specialty products are available
at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS section and All our
products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied!
Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have
any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library
for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC
articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6354:
I have
used a VERY strong grout cleaner on my marble floor. This cleaner
has caused horrible results. The shine is gone. This cleaner had some
acid in it. Is there any product that I can buy to put on the marble
to restore the shine? BB, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear BB: The acidity of the product you used didn’t take
any finish off your marble tiles: it actually corroded the surface
of the stone. A professional stone refinisher is the only answer to
your question. They will have to re-grind and re-polish your floor.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there and your poor marble already took enough abuse!
How
could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior
decorator? Hardly!
I
did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide
stone restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence
you need to make a competent choice. It does carry a small price
tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature.
It's available in pay-per-download format. What's more, should you
in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing
an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will
be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking!
Should
you have any other question, ask away: Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 6353:
I have
granite counter tops in Raven Black. I have noticed little fading
spots showing up in some areas. Is it possible to remove these? How?
Also, is it bad to use Windex to clean the counter tops. Reply. Thanks,
Jill. March
01, Reply |
| R1:
I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution
for you. Go into the “Educational Literature” and look for
the “One-on-one” consultation service I offer for a small
fee. (Do NOT buy the article about stain removal: you don’t have
stains, no matter what they look like!!) Or, you can also call you
fabricator and ask them to solve the problem. After all, they made
good money out of your countertop, didn’t they? Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6352:
I live
in Manhattan and am renovating a kitchen and a bathroom for my new
apartment, which I hope to convert to a rental unit in about 5 years
so I want materials that are lower maintenance. I would like a recommendation
on on a granite counter that would match birch cabinets, white appliances
and a grey floor, although I can change this color since I haven't
purchased the tiles. Since the kitchen is so small and windowless,
I prefer lighter colors and am looking for shades with some brown
(not peach/pink), grey, white or black tones and I want a counter
that's less porous. (I liked Kashmir White until I read how porous
it is). I also want a recommendation for a reasonably priced natural
stone (marble, granite, travertine, etc.) to use in the bathroom...one
that is white base with grey tones. I want to avoid creamy colors
and peachy tones. I'd like to use Carrera Marble (polished for walls,
honed for floor) but am concerned about the maintenance. Since you
are based in New Jersey, can you recommend a good local source from
which to purchase these materials? Thanks, Marli, March 01, Reply |
| Q 6351:
I am getting
ready to install blue pearl tile countertops. I have existing laminate
countertops. As I understand your advice, I will not seal the tile.
They do not appear to absorb the lemon juice. I plan to sand the countertops,
and then apply a layer of thinset for granite. I want minimal grout
lines. What is the smallest I should use? What type of grout should
I use? Should I put a membrane under the tile? What sealant should
I use to set the sinks? I am also going to apply the tile as a backsplash.
Do you have any specific advice about using it as a backsplash? From
the webpage it looks like Blue Pearl comes from Norway, but my tiles
were imported from Italy. Does that mean that it isn't blue pearl?
It appears to be the same. It appears that you would recommend M-5
to clean the installed countertops? March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rebecca: You're welcome! Yes, MB-5 is your
man! But don't forget MB-13 to make your Blue Pearl tiles talk to
you!! :-) Ciao and good luck, says Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6350:
We have
a brand new granite counter in our kitchen. We were out of town for
a week while remodeling work continued in other parts of our house
(bathrooms) and returned to find a mystery ring on our previously
pristine granite countertop in the kitchen. The ring stain is a perfect
circle, the outer rim of which is about ¼” in diameter,
giving the appearance that a can or bottle made the mark. The center
of the circle is not stained and is 3 ¼” in diameter.
The high polish on the counter remains. It is still shiny and completely
smooth to the touch, even on top of the stain. My question is what
substances (regular household or otherwise) can penetrate granite
and leave a ring without damaging the polish? My second question is
how do I treat it? Shelia,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sheila: You’re in direct contact with me now. But before
I try to solve the “mystery” of your “ghost” stain
I have to ask you a couple of questions: What kind of granite do you
have? Did the fabricator applied any impregnator/sealer to it? Answer
those two questions and then I will tell you what to do! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6349:
I accidentally
spilled white distilled vinegar on my marble floor. It left spots
and splatter stains all over the floor? We just had this floor installed
around Christmas. Can this floor be saved or do I need to get another
floor? March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Feeling sick in Ft. Washington (!!): Do you need to replace the
whole floor? You wish! You will need to replace the whole house!!
And all that over a few drops of vinegar!!!:-) Relax! No need to panic:
get your local Yellow Pages and look under the heading: “Marble
and Terrazzo Cleaning.” Not so fast, though! You’d better
watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all
the activities related to stone from a professional point of view.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there and
your marble already got its dose of abuse! How could you tell a champ
from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone
distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! I
did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide
stone restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence
you need to make a competent choice. It does carry a small price tag,
and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature It's
available in pay-per-download format. What's more, should you in the
future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order
of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled
to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! And keep always
in mind that, after all, it’s only money!! :-) Should you have
any other question, ask away: Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6348:
I have
just stumbled upon your site and I have to breathe a sigh of relief
for what looks to be an incredible resource. I have recently started
working for a fabricator in the New England area and am looking to
learn more about stone. From what I have read on your site it appears
that I have a lot to learn. Is there a site or publications that you
would recommend that would tell me what stones/granites should be
sealed and what shouldn't? What stones/granites are best for kitchens,
bathrooms, flooring etc? It seems where ever one goes online the only
information that is available is related to the products that the
web site is trying to sell.Any and all information would be greatly
appreciated.Thanks, Alan, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alan: I like your attitude! I'm always available to help fellow
stone crafters. Allow me to take you under my wing!! :-) Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6347:
We sealed
our newly installed granite counters and island with the product called
511 Impregnator and followed the the instructions very carefully.
The counters and island now have approximately 6 months of moderate
use and there appears to be noticeable discoloration (dark spots)
on several isolated areas. Question: how do I remove this discoloration
and prevent this staining/discoloration from happening again, can
it be restored back to it's natural state? The granite is a dark green/blue/black
color. Thank you, Dale, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution
for you. Go into the “Educational Literature” and look for
the “One-on-one” consultation service I offer for a small
fee. (Do NOT buy the article about stain removal: you don’t have
stains, no matter what they look like!!) Or, you can also call you
fabricator and ask them to solve the problem. After all, they made
good money out of your countertop, didn’t they? Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6346:
We have
a granite countertop island with a 12" overhang. When we had
the island constructed no one told us the proper steps or order of
installing a granite countertop with such an overhang. Now that we
need to install corbels we are in a quandry. How do we secure them
to the island to provide support??? We've read where there should
be a minimum of a 3/4' plywood underlayment. There is no such animal
under ours. Have any suggestions? By not having corbels at this time
are we in danger of possibly cracking the granite if we lean on it?
Thank you for your time, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Get hold of your fabricator and let them tackle the problem. They
made good money out of you, didn’t they? What do you expect me
to tell you from here? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q 6345:
We're
preparing to have 18 x 18 travertine stone tiles installed in our
foyer, kitchen, family room, hall and bathroom. I have purchased the
needed quantity and at the last minute bought the "polished"
travertine, which has a shiny look to it. The tiles are still on the
pallet at the warehouse waiting to be picked up by the installer.
I have been told by friends / etc. that I'm going to regret getting
the "polished" tiles because it will be hard to keep them
looking good in the traffic areas???? My wife is now wondering if
this is true and would we be better off changing to a honed flat natural
finish. We will of course be sealing. What's the general opinion ...
will the polished be hard to keep "polished"???? Ronald,
March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ronald Lang: 1. Polished travertine does
NOT need to be sealed, of course! Not even with my outlandish MB-4
stone impregnator!! 2. You do NOT want polished travertine (or marble)
in a kitchen. 3. A flat travertine (honed-finish) is a much better
choice for the high traffic areas. In that case, you will impregnate
it in the kitchen and inside the shower-stall. (With my outlandish
MB-4 or course, or else!!) In all other areas it will not be necessary.
Impregnator/sealers only prevent stains, but do nothing to protect
the surface of the stone. Even when honed travertine absorbs very
little. (When polished it absorbs nothing at all.) I can see that,
as usual, your stone dealer can't give you much intelligence about
the proper maintenance requirements of the natural stones they sell!
My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are
available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE section Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 6344:
I recently
bought a home with a sandstone fireplace and hearth. Some water from
snow covered logs have dripped onto the hearth and stained it slightly.
Is there a cleaning agent for this application? I'm having limited
luck on the subject matter. The sandstone is very light gray in color.
Thank you, Robin, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Robin: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of
those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to
do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can
order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
Bertoli |
| Q 6343:
I am an interior design student trying to get a grasp on the different
properties of granite and marble. For example I need to know how it
is cut, installed what edges are available, what sizes, how finished,
sealers, density, thickness, texture, patterns, strength, fire resistance
or class, water absorption, damp proofing, stain resisting, thermal
and accoustics. Any information that can be sent to me regarding this
is very appreciated. I am having a hard time finding any website that
can provide this info.Sincerely, Harmony, March
01, Reply |
| Q 6342:
I have
a marble shower that needs to be cleaned and restored. I am not sure
if it is natural or cultured, the stone is a dark green color. We
have hard well water, and my husband blames my Dove soap for the streaking
on the walls. I have tired a number of things but have had no luck.
What do I use to remove the streaking and then what do I use to restore
the shine (and of course prevent further streaking)? Is it possible
to make these repairs myself or has it just gone to far? Lynn,
March
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lynn: Your Dove soap is not the culprit. It could be a number
of factors, but since you don't even know what stone you have, it's
kind of hard for me to venture any guess. I lean toward natural stone
(opposed to plastic: Cultured Marble), but it's hard to tell. No you
won't be able to do anything yourself. Get hold of a local stone restoration
contractor for consultation. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 6341:
I accidentally
spilled white distilled vinegar on my marble floor. It left spots
and splatter stains all over the floor? We just had this floor installed
around Christmas. Can this floor be saved or do I need to get another
floor? Gloria March 01, Reply |
| Q 6340:
I just
had giallo ornamental stone installed for a new island. The existing
counter is same stone name but from different dealer, the original
stone is darker, but also much smoother and shinier than the island.
Why would the "new" stone be rough in some areas, and sealant
seems to be crackled, letting even grape juice stain in 2 seconds
where other stone wipes easily? HELP..Advice?? Thanks Diana, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diana: Probably the first slab had been
"resined" by the factory, while the second one wasn't. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q 6339:
Is there
any way to restore or clean a black marble fireplace surround? I assume
it has discolored either from heat from the fireplace or some fireplace
fumes. The fireplace is a non-vented gas fireplace. Bill, March 01,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bill: In a nutshell: get hold of a professional stone refinisher.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6338:
Remodeling
my kitchen and would like to have granite countertops. A local granite
showroom said that they seal with a new product that's been out for
about 2-5 years and the sealer lasts for the life of the granite top.
The salesman told me that I wouldn't have to worry at all about the
granites staining. Do you know of such a product? If so, please tell
me more.... How do I know what type of granite I am purchasing? Are
there certain questions I should ask before purchasing? Are different
types of stones sealed with different types of sealers? When I do
decide on which granite color, what should be included in contract?
Any guide lines to follow? Thank you, Chris, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chris: The only “forever” sealer
I can think of is if the slabs have been “resined.” Other
than that, the “forever” impregnator/sealer does not exist.
I can see that you have lots of legitimate questions. You can find
all your answer by logging on the “Educational Literature”
I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging
on the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per- download
format. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine
products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.&
H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid
just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away:
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6337:
Could
you advise how to find a legitimate granit counter restorer in the
south shore of Long Island, New York? I have some dull areas on a
kitchen counter, that may have been damaged by acid. Impragnating
these areas did not solve the problem and I think they may need to
be honed with a diamond plating tool. Any suggestion would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks in advance, Judy, March 01, Reply |
R1:
Hello back, Judy! I’m not convinced. Talk to me some more about
your dull spots.
What kind of granite do you have?
How long ago was it installed?
What do those dull spots look like? Do they have any special shape?
Did you inqure with the original fabricator? What did they say?
Let me know and then we’ll take it from there. You’re in
direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6336:
I read
your website but I am still not sure how to clean my marble floor.
I had a carpet on the floor which had no backing. Unforunately when
we walked on it, it scratched the marble over a number of years. Can
you please tell me if there is any polish that I can use to cover
up the scratches or could I possibly paint the scratches as it is
black marble. I would appreciate your comments. Thanks and it is a
great website. Lester, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lester Chan: I hope you're not trying to pull my chains! :-)
I mean ... a pllish to cover the scratches up?! ... Or paint over
the marble??! ... You need a professional stone refinisher that will
proceed to re-grind and re-polish your marble floor. Now, you'd better
watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all
the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How
could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive article on how to select
a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give you all
the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. It does carry
a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational
Literature. It's available in pay-per-download format. What's more,
should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by
placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you
will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking!
Should you have any other question, ask away: Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6335:
I'm thinking
about replacing my kitchen counter tops with Granite.....I just love
the natural beauty of stone but I'm getting very concerned about the
care and maintanance. I don't want to be constantly watching guests
or my children to make sure they don't make a stain on them. I tried
to locate your link about "dos and don'ts" but I couldn't
find it. I really need some good advise....help! Thanks, RAchel,
March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rachel: If you pick the right granite and the right fabricator,
you will have to countertop of your life: as beautiful and as bullet-proof
as they come! But you’ve gotta get to know the ropes! I did write
a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen
Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on
the Educational Literature. It's available in pay-per- download format.
What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products
a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges,
you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the
asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6334:
I am trying
to get some advice on repair of a baptismal font at our church. It
is made of marble and was apparently made around 1928 from the inscription
on it. The font is in two pieces with a base stand and large bowl.
It appears that originally it had a 1/4" rod from the base into
the bottom of the bowl which through the years has broken and the
bowl is just sitting on the base. The bowl weights about 200 pound
and is just sitting on the 6" base pedestal. We are afraid some
child is going to try to pull them self up to look inside and turn
it over on themselves. We have lifter the bowl from the base and there
is writing on the bottom of the bowl and the top of the base so we
feel it was designed to ship in two pieces. I am wondering if you
could tell me if there is some good way to glue the bowl back to the
base? Or should we drill the rod out and try to replace it? I do not
know if we can just drill the marble with a masonry bit or if it takes
something else. I had thought about trying to drill two holes to the
side of the existing rod and put two rods in but I would only be using
a hand drill and I am concerned about how accurate I could drill the
holes. March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Earl Pond III: The only piece of advice that I feel like giving
to you is to get hold of a local reputable stone fabricator of stone
mason. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6333:
I would
like to know how to install marble over brick we have a brick fire
place and are putting in gas logs in a fire box but want to in case
it with marble on the brick do i need to put up backer wall also i
have never installed marble are there any thing i need to know . thank
you, March
01, Reply |
| Q 6332:
I installed
slate on the surface of a fountain. Water runs over this slate and
looks great. Recently, I sealed this slate surface (3 coats) with
stone enhancer and it changed the water flow in a negative way. Water
races down and actually flies off the surface of the slate and out
of the fountain to the floor. How can I remove that sealer without
damaging the slate? Alan,
March
01, Reply |
| Q 6331:
We had
filled, honed, travertine installed recently, and upon completion,
we noticed that most of the tiles seem to have opaque spots, like
smudges on them. Is this normal? Can it be corrected? Did the installer
do something wrong? This is mainly noticeable from certain angles.
Thanks, Evans, March 01, Reply |
| Q 6330:
I have
just received a quote to put slate on the floors of my entrance, kitchen
and main floor bathroom and I think you think that this may be a bad
idea. I have heard everything from great idea, slate is durable and
low maintenance to don't do it unless in a low traffic area. I would
love to read your guide. Lisa,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: You used one letter of the alphabet too many! Here's the
real deal: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
are available for a small fee [Not: FREE!](which could be refundable)
on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 6329:
We are
building a house and I fell in love with a piece of granite called
ORO FANTASTICO. The man at the granite shop said they had never used
this particular type but it is considered a special granite. After
reading your website, I'm getting a little afraid about the porosity.
The granite hasn't been cut or installed yet, so we have time to change
our choice if advisable and we hear from you quickly. If you could
also include any special suggestions for its care. Thank you for your
website and all its information. Ciao, Andrea, March
01, Reply. |
R1:
Dear Andrea: "ORO FANTASTICO", huh!...
Oh, it must be a very special "granite" all right! On top
of that the man at the shop can't even tell whether is porous or not
... Mmmm ... It gives me pause right there! :-) Well, as you can tell,
I never heard of this Fantastic Gold thing (at least not under that
name!), but it really doesn't matter. In fact, I seldom make final
statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
may be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on
the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per- download format.
What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products
a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges,
you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the
asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 6328:
We service
a fountain that is made of black granite. Because of the water we
are experiencing problems with calcium build up. are there any chemicals
that won't damage the shine and remove the calcium? or is there a
restoration and preventetive maintence process that we should employ,
La pool, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brian: Most chemicals that would remove a buildup of mineral
deposits are highly acidic. The use of any such product once or twice
won't damage black granite, but repeated uses would. I prefer the
mechanical removal of the stuff sitting on the stone surface. In situations
like that I've been successful by using my marble polishing powder,
MB-12 with a variable-speed right-angle grinder with a white nylon
pad on a 7" diameter Velcro pad-holder. Being a polishing powder
for marble it will not affect the granite one bit, but it's aggressive
enough to remove all the mineral deposits. Assuming that they are
mineral deposit. It could also be that the water actually eroded the
very surface of the stone and made it kind of rough. As you lose shine,
you loose depth of color as well, at it looks like the stone has something
sitting on it. If that the case, you will then need the help of a
professional stone refinisher. |
| Q 6327:
why
would i want to give you money for some advice that i may easily get
for free. being an "expert" in stones as you say you are,
giving me this advice should not be that hard enough to charge money.
that is proposterous!!! i think this is about one of the rudest thing
i have ever seen. it's not like i am asking you to come over my house
and fix it for me but only to ask a simple question. is that hard
to ask without being charged for?? apparently not to you guys. from
this point on, i am sick of marbles. i'm gonna put in nice oak wood
floors. that won't stain and won't make me go through the troubles
of doing what i am doing. -not so thank you- Jimmy, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
we i.e. findstone are not experts. we do not answer any of these questions.
we only run this marketplace. on the other hand, so many problems
and solutions have been dealt with on our site- but of course why
should you think nice about that?and anyway there are so many stone
sites so when you think you can get your answer for free from some
of them, good for you. why are you upset with us though? anyway, all
the best. FindStone.com |
| R2:
Dear
Jimmy: (I guess this is your name, since you are so brave and polite
that you didn’t even sign your message) I never said to be an
“expert” in stone: other people say I am, namely those who
are willing to pay for my advice. Is there any reason at all that
you could suggest as to why I should spend hours every day to answer
people questions for free? Am I bonded by some sort of law to do that?
I mean: if I’d decide to do volunteer work I would try to help
the needy, not well-to-do people who can afford natural stone in their
homes. You ain’t no welfare mother, are ya? Did you ever try
to call a lawyer office (not your lawyer, just any lawyer out of the
yellow pages) and ask for free advice on the grounds that it cost
them nothing to answer? And if you can get your information for free
somewhere else, why don’t you just get it instead of showing
off what kind of a moron you are? Why don’t you ask the same
questions to the people who sold the stone and installed in your home
and made money out of you? It’s a simple question, right? So
why shouldn’t they answer it for you? Let me tell you something:
if bloated gasbags could actually fly, I’m pretty sure that your
shoes would never wear out! Go away. I promise you that the people
at findstone.com and I personally will never miss you. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
