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| Q 2345: Water marks
on my Carrara marble, according to Maurizio, marble shouldn't even
be it the kitchen. My marble supplier tall, dark , handsome and
Italian dreamy voice and all, told me marble in the kitchen is an
Italian must. It sounds as though I must have it re-honed, is there
nothing I can do to help cut down on spotting around my sink, and
do you impregnate or not. Thank you, Stephanie, July 30, Reply |
R1:
Dear Stephanie: Although I'm NOT tall, dark and handsome, I'm Italian,
too!
There are two schools of thoughts about marble in the kitchen. One
goes: "Marble is such a pain in the neck that the only thing you
can do is to look at it! You can't touch it with anything!" While
the other one is: "My uncle Tony has a white marble worktop in his
bakery and he uses and abuses that thing six days from Sunday, and
it's still gorgeous!" Quite apart, wouldn't you say?
Now the big $64 question is: Who right and who's wrong?
Strangely, they are both right!
Northern Europe and North America have no stone culture to speak of,
and their perception of marble is that of a perfectly shiny finished
surface, that has to stay like that, totally unscathed, for ever and
ever! On the other hand, Anthony the baker's relatives were raised
in an environment where stone looks, well ... like stone! And the
more it's "lived" the better it looks!
Yes, I always advise people to stay away from marble in the kitchen,
but the reason why I do that is because I live and operate in North
America, and the prevalent perception of marble and its performance
herein is dead set within the school of thoughts #1. And I must deal
with THAT reality, because I can't teach people HOW they should like
their marble, can I! (probably it's because I don't have the dreamy
voice of your Italian contractor!!)
That said, if he was convincing enough to "convert" you at the way
Southern European perceive their marbles, then I'm the first one not
to have problems at having marble in a kitchen. Yes, have it sealed
with an impregnator: When it's hone finished, the stone's pores are
more open that if it were polished. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
Q 2338: I have some
Statuary White Marble that I recently have had installed our bathroom
(shower surround, floor and counter). A couple of questions....
1. There are some what look like water marks on some of the stones.
I have used "poultice" with some success. How else could I get these
out?
2. Just by searching the Internet there are a couple of "marble polishes"
on the market, i.e. Italian Craftsman polish, Weinman etc. Do these
do anything? They do mention that they should not be used on the floor.
Does this mean that they will make the floor too slippery?
3. After I get the marble "clean" I plan on using a sealer on the
grout and marble. Should I wax the floor as well? Thanks, brian, July
29, Reply |
| R2:
Hi brian, I have Carrara marble in my kitchen, 2" honed slab. I love
the way it looks , but I too have developed water marks, haven't got
my reply back from expert but from what I have read. Were out of luck
by fixing the problem ourselves. Rehoning or polishing seems to be
the only remedy, however, I haven't heard how to prevent this from
happening again. Stephanie, USA. |
R1:
Dear brian: A little confused, aren't you! Now, what did the people
who sold and install
the marble in your house told you about your problem? Just curious!...
1. "Water marks" were not generated by water and are not stains; therefore
no poultice will do you any good. They are surface damages and they
have to be removed by refinishing the stone surface. Marble is polished
by abrasion and friction, not by putting some finish onto it, then
buffing it up.
2. I don't know about the Weinman product, but I'm very familiar with
the Italian Craftsman one. It's one of the best stone dressing that
money can buy, but will do squat about your problem. Check my Dos
and Don'ts out, by clicking on them at the bottom of this page side
bar. You'll find what you need to do to solve your problem.
3. Sealing your marble won't do you any good, unless you may envision
the possibility of spilling coffee or cooking oil in your bathroom
and let them sit on your stone for at least half an hour or so. No
sealer under the sun will help you prevent the "water marks" that
you have now. Waxing it? Harmless but useless at the same time, if
you ask me. You can use a
good-quality car wax on the walls of your shower stall to help against
the accumulation of soap film. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
Q 2332: My mother has
had a white and light brown striated marble table top for about 30
years and has changed residences several times without incurring any
chips or scratches. However, recently my sister gave her a large glazed
flower pot. My mother first asked if the pot was leakproof and glazed
so that leaks wouldn't occur and was given assurances that it was.
She therefore placed the pot on the marble and added flowers and water.
One week later, the flowers were dead and she removed the pot only
to find that water had leaked at the base of the pot and leached
into the marble. Do you know of any safe way to remove the
stains? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
bob,
July 29, Reply |
R1:
Dear bob: Get hold of a professional stone refinisher and let them
assess the nature of
the stains (IF they are stains), and what to do next. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA |
Q 2320: I left a plant
sitting on the fireplace hearth after I had watered it and when I
moved the plant the next day there was a milky white stain on the
black marble. The surface does not appear to be etched but the
stain seems to have gone "into" the marble. Soap and water had no
effect except to hide the stain until the surface was dried when the
stain came back. The folks who installed the fireplace hearth tried
some type of paste cleaner, a "marble restoration kit" and some spray-on
cleaner and only managed to lighten the stain slightly and leave an
area where they worked showing in the finish.
Is there anything I can do to get this white stain out of the black
marble? Thanks, Linda, July 27, Reply |
R1:
Dear Linda: What you have, believe it or not, is a real bad etch mark.
Store-bought restoration kits are not tough enough to do the job (for
obvious reasons, they have to be user-friendly). You have only one
option: Get hold of a professionals stone refinisher.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2240: Hi, we have light
gray tiles throughout our house and we dropped items in the kitchen
and chipped a few, is there a product on the market to repair them?
Also we have a marble table with glass rings and spots, how do
we go about removing same? Yours truly, Ebba, Australia. July
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ebba: I don't know about the chipped tiles. I do know about the
"water spots and rings". No you can't remove them: They are
out already!! They are surface damages (not stains) and some of the
marble actually came off. You need a professional stone refinisher
to take care of your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2214: I installed
a White Carrara marble in my bathroom. After a year all the marble
has yellow stains. I would like to know if it is something wrong
in the installation. Or the quality of the marble, can there be bad
quality marble Carrara or all white marble stains yellow. Or is something
wrong in the surface where the marble was installed? Can there be
some kind of water filtration? Or fungus? How can I fix this? and
return the original color of the white Carrara stone? Thanks, beatriz,
July 12, Reply |
| R7:
Surely this defect depends from the material used to fix this marble.
Maybe the fixer used mastic or resin and the oil in this material
after some months entered inside the material. Never forgott that
stone (some more, some less) absorbs liquid, and the fixer must waterproof
the marble or must use the right material. Tiscalinet, Italy |
R6:
There are many kind of white Carrara. There are also some types that
get yellow after laying, it's normal.
If you make the right treatment with hydro-repellent solvent, you
solve the problem for ever, otherwise you can try to use oxygen-water
90% (be careful!!!) mixed with water (50%) and white.....(we call
bicarbonato di sodio), then put on the floor for a couple of hours.
If the marble will be a little more white ok, otherwise you have to
keep the yellow ground for ever! I'm now wonder why the supplier didn't
tell these things before? Good luck, Nicola, Italy. |
R5:
This is the typical problem of material installed with cement and
without white glue.
All crystalline materials must be installed with white glue (Mapei
or similar).
If cement is used, sometimes some impurity in cement (such as iron)
tend to rust over the years and turn material to yellow. This happens
when the surrounding is humid. Giuliano, Geologist, Stone Consultant.
Italy. |
R4:
DEAR bEATRIZ, I AM ANSWERING ONLY bECAUSE YOUR NAME REMIND ME A WONDERFUL
GIRLFRIEND I HAD IN bOGOTA'.
THE YELLOW STAIN ON CARRARA IS DUE ONLY TO THE MATERIAL YOU USED FOR
INSTALLING, OR PRESENCE OF PIECES OF IRON OR SOMETHING ELSE UNDER
THE FLOOR.
IF YOU INSTALLED WITH NORMAL CEMENT MIXED WITH SAND,OR IF YOU HAVE
IRON MINERALS IN THE SAND, YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE YELLOW STAINS ON CARRARA,
IT' S NOT DUE TO MARbLE, IT'S DUE TO THE CEMENT OR THE SAND OR bOTH.
ALWAYS USE PRODUCTS FOR CERAMICS, WHITE PRODUCTS THAT YOU NORMALLY
FIND IN THE STORES.
NOW YOU CAN FIX THE PRObLEM IN THIS WAY: YOU MAKE A "PASTE"
WITH POWDER OF GYPSUM (IT'S LIKE A CEMENT) MIXED WITH OXYGENATED WATER
(HYDROGEN PEROXIDE LIKE YOU USE FOR MEDICALS) AT THE HIGHER PERCENTAGE
YOU FIND IN THE MARKET.
YOU MIX AND MAKE A PASTE, CONSISTENCY LIKE THAT OF TOOTHPASTE AND
PUT IT ON STAINS, LEAVING UNTIL IT' S HARD. AFTERWARDS REMOVE AND
CLEAN WITH NORMAL WATER. DO IT SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL YOU SOLVE THE PRObLEM.
IT'S THE ONLY WAY. TRY TO CHECK IF YOU HAVE LOT OF WATER UNDER THE
FLOOR, IT' S IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK, bEATRIZ, WHAT A NICE NAME YOU HAVE.
VINICIO, ITALY |
R3:
Dear beatriz: There must be something wrong with the installation.
Check all around your stall and you will see that grout and calk are
missing (maybe the tiles had been set "butt-joint"; that'll do it,
all right!)
White Carrara marble has a considerable amount of iron mineral within.
When water finds its way behind the tiles, moisture will migrate through
the core of the stone, thus oxidizing the iron mineral. In other words,
your tile are rusted through and through. It's terminal. The only
solution is to rip out the whole thing and start all over. Sorry about
the bad news. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R2:
Probably the installer used black cement that is not good for this
or the quality of White Marble is too soft. You have to change the
marble and replace it with a good quality marble and install with
the right product. With best regards, Alessandro, Italy. |
R1:
Dear Mrs. beatriz, the problem is there was ferrous parts in the water
used to install the bianco Carrara.
It's not very simple to resolve, there are many different liquid products
to put on the Marble.
Please contact me, I can try to resolve your problem. best regards,
Davini, Italy. |
Dear
fellow participants from Italy (all of you): It's quite amazing to
realize that, all of a sudden, when one particular marble (White Carrara)
gets into the picture, a whole army of experts from Italy come out
of the woodwork and post answers! What's also amazing is that none
of those answers is even close to being the right one!
Sorry, fellows! (Mi dispiace, amici!) Nicola states that had they
used some sort of penetrating sealer (trattamento antimacchia, it's
called over there) our inquirer would have solved the problem for
ever. Well, while the old saying goes: "NEVER say NEVER", there are
a few "nevers" (or "for evers", for that matter; same difference!)
that can be said. One of them is: Never believe blindly the advertisement
pitch of a type of product! Sealers for stone (over here they are
also called "Impregnators") only help preventing stains coming from
without, not from within like in this case. (I ought to know: I make
one of those products!)
Second, they are not for ever. Third Hydrogen Peroxide (Acqua ossigenata)
doesn't do the first thing about metal stains. It's only good at removing
organic and inorganic stains (still, only when they're generated from
the surface of the stone down, not viceversa), period.
Giuliano, Vinicio (by the way, "molto romantico"!) and Alessandro,
all make reference to the setting material. It should have been white
thinset, they all say. That's right, but how the heck do you guys
know that they didn't use white thinset? because of the reported problem?
For starters, gray thinset may darken the stone but will never make
it rust. Second -- and most important -- if the type of setting material
were the culprit, the possible problems consequent to that would emerge
within a couple of weeks,not certainly after one year! Everybody is
missing the mark big time, here!
Can't you guys read what the lady's saying?! AFTER A YEAR! Same thing
goes with Davini's comment: How can the (hypothetical) presence of
iron (ferrous) in the water cause any damage after one year??! The
truth is that "White Carrara" marbles -- all of them -- contain a
certain percentage of iron mineral (it's not an hypothetical statement,
it's a plain fact) and if, somehow, you have a constant migration
of moisture through the core of the stone -- like in the case when
water finds its way behind and/or under the tiles -- the marble will
get oxidized and show on the surface in the form of yellow, rusty
stains. It's that simple! And to you all: Forget about the Hydrogen
Peroxide (acqua ossigenata) thing to remove rust stains (from the
surface, that is) it just won't work.
Maurizio, USA |
Hi All,
Thanks for all your answers and help. I will buy the products and
try them out. I wanted to know how can I know if the marble Carrara
White is of bad quality or soft white Carrara? Is there any test I
can make? I wanted you to know that from the time I built the house
and installation was done, only three years have passed.
My installer says he used white Mapei glue to install the bianco Carrara.
I wonder if the cement that is under Mapei glue could pass moisture
through the Mapei glue to the white marble? Thanks again. beatriz |
R4:
Caro Maurizio, hai ragione su quello che dici, perņ soltanto in parte
!
Difatti ci sono alcuni titpi di Carrara che cambiano " sempre" sia
adoperando collanti bianchi o con malete pozzolaniche.
Altri, nemmeno se vengono posati con ferro diventano gialli.
Come mai?
Di fatto c'č che purtroppo a Carrara queste cose si sanno, ma nn vengono
dette per paura di svilire il prodotto che comunque se fosse trattato
prima si risolverebbero comunque.
Per tua informazione, comunque l'acqua ossigenata funziona, eccome
se funziona. Hai mai provato? Saluti, Nicola. |
R3:
You will see a good product if:
1) It must be compact and of fine grain
2) to check this a tile must sound when touched
3) also you have to see water absorption by putting some water on
dry tile; if the marble absorbs too much you will see darker spots
or water, If not the marble is compact and good.
4) A good White Carrara marble must not have too many holes "taroli",
(just some is ok and normal, but not too much.) With best regards.
Alessandro, Italy |
R2:
HI bEATRIZ, YOU WANT TO SOLVE YOUR PRObLEM ? ASK DIRECTLY TO MAURIZIO,
LEAVING THE OTHER SUGGESTIONS, OTHERWISE YOU bECAME CRAZY.
I THINK THAT ANY SUGGESTION WAS SENT TO YOU bECAUSE OF A PERSONAL
EXPERIENCE, THAT' S WHY I SENT YOU MINE.
bUT ALL OF US WERE DESTROYED FROM MAURIZIO' S ANALYSIS, HE' S GOING
TO bE THE MARbLE PRObLEMS NObEL PRIZE 2002.
MAURIZIO, MA DOVE CAZZO TI ERI CACCIATO ? HO SEMPRE SOGNATO DI CONOSCERE
UN ESPERTO COME TE, MI AVRESTI RISOLTO UN SACCO DI ROGNE IN GIRO PER
IL MONDO. VINICIO, Italy |
R1:
Dear beatriz: There's no such a thing like a bad quality White
Carrara marble -- at least not in the sense that you mean (soft???).
All White Carrara marbles contain a certain percentage of iron mineral
within. Like I said, don't look for answers that can go back a year
or better. If you have a problem NOW, the answer can only be found
in the recent past! Like I said in my answer, check your grout and
caulk lines. You will find out,without doubt, that some grout or caulk
is missing and therefore water found its way behind and under your
marble tiles. That's all there is to it, no other explanation. That's
typical (but not exclusive) to a "butt-joint" installation (when the
tiles are set tight to one another. It's a faulty installation in
a shower enclosure).
And again, it's terminal. Don't waste your time trying useless products
or procedures. It will only increase your frustration! (Mark my words,
because I KNOW you won't believe me right now and you WILL try
something, before giving in!! It's human nature at work!) Have the
whole thing ripped out and start all over, making sure that when they
install the new tiles (no matter what they are made of) they leave
1/16" gap for proper grouting. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
Dear
All, especially Maurizio,
I do want to apologize I didn't mean to create such a discussion.
I am really sorry. When I posted the question, my husband was decided
that he would sue the person who sold us the marble.
It is a person who lives in Italy. My decorator is also an Italian.
He was angry with the both of them. My husband was really angry because
we also have a friend who worked with the same decorator and the same
marble supplier, has the same Carrara marble and his marble is also
yellowing. So, the two where going to sue the supplier together. One
of the complains was, as someone in site said: Why didn't the supplier
say something in this regard?
I only was preventing him to sue. because I think, you always know
how you begin a battle but never know how much it will cost you at
the end. So I thought, if I can find something to fix it, to prevent
all this hassle, it was a good idea.
Well, when I read all the messages. I bought the oxygen water, did
the mix and it worked. Many of the yellow stains went. Not all. but
many did.
When this happened I thought something is wrong! In the messages,
it was also clear that after so long, the stains will not disappear.
So I asked my husband, who was hysterical at the time Ii posted the
question, and did not want to talk about the issue only sue, sue with
his friend. They were only insulting the supplier, etc. You have to
understand that all the bathroom walls, floor, shower, etc covered
with the white Carrara marble. It was a very expensive job.
So when the stains disappeared, I told my husband how strange that
the stains disappear? At that moment, my husband was happier, and
told me that from the very beginning after the installer did the job
the marble began to yellow. He had a person, some kind of specialist,
come in and every time he brought a mix, that would charge him 50
pound, put it on the marble and whiten the yellow spots. but eventually
the building of the house finished, and the specialist got lost (maybe
he went to rip off someone else). And the stone got yellow stains
all over again.
I feel a bit bad because you were really a lot of help. I am sorry
a heated discussion came about. I really want to say "thank you"
because the mix did work for me. I would like to say that the site
is wonderful & helpful and without the site I would be in some
lawyers office today. but I also need to apologize, because I did
not have all the information with me. And at the moment, I only wrote
what I knew ie: after living in the house the marble began to yellow.
I never knew what my husband told me, after I had posted the question.
I am really sorry.
My husband and his friend do insist that the marble is of bad quality,
someone (some kind of specialist, another one!!) told my friend who
has the same problem, that good quality Carrara marble does not stain.
I really don't know. What I could read from the site is that there
is no bad quality marble. That is why I posted this question on my
second post. because they where insisting to sue the supplier because
the marble was of bad quality. I hope Maurizio can forgive me and
all the Italians that helped can also forgive me for the bad time
I caused you because I did not all the information available.
I still have another problem with the white marble. but I will leave
this for another post.
Thank you all very much, Sorry for the discomfort. Take care. beatriz |
| R1:
YES, WE WON THE STAINS ( MORE OR LESS ). R4 / R5 / R6 WERE THE bEST
ANSWERS, (ME, NICOLA AND GIULIANO) I NEVER TRIED WITH bICARbONATE,
LIKE NICOLA SAID, INSTEAD OF GYPSUM. I' LL DO IT TO SEE WHAT' S bETTER.
WHEN WILL YOU PAY FOR A PIZZA TO US ? ALL THE bEST FOR YOU AND YOUR
CARRARA STAINS. VINICIO, ITALY. July 22. |
R2:
Dear all: I guess I owe you an apology. First off, we learned now
that the problem started from the get-go, and not after a year. Had
I known that, my diagnosis would have been different and probably
in line with one of those that you guys posted. I must also conclude
that the yellowing of the stone was not really rust (trust me guys,
you can't
remove rust with Hydrogen Peroxide), but some other inorganic matter
that, as Nicola says, may be typical of a few Carrara marbles. That
said, I want you all to understand that "debate" is my middle name
and my specialty!! It's part of my character and, no matter how it
sounds, never means to insult anybody (unless I openly state so, which
is not at all unusual!!) I believe that debate is good, constructive
and ... a lot of fun, too!
What's most important, is that our debate produced a positive result.
I'm glad that beatriz was able to solve her problem thanks to you
guys (not certainly me, in this case!) Ciao everybody, Maurizio. |
Dear
ALL, and Maurizio,
Thanks again.
Hope to visit you All and invite you for a PIZZA.
Just for the records, I used the gypsum powder mix with the oxygen
water 40%.
I could not find higher % in the market.
My next problem with the same white marble is that it has dark grayish
stains in the shape of spilled water. but water was not spilled. but
it looks like it comes from under the stone. Not from the top. It
is just in the floor, not on the walls or shower or sink tabletop.
Dont ask me when it started? (HAHAHA, I will have to investigate more!).
My husband got in love with the oxygen water and put it pure on the
floor I don't know what reaction that can do but it seems that this
grayish water shaped stains are getting whiter. Can you comment on
this? It is OK to do this? Is The Rosa Verona that is in the floor
as decoration bleeding, or is it the grout color that is bleeding.
I don't know. Thanks for all the feedback. Regards, beatriz |
| Q 2183: A slice of lemon
was removed from a drink and left lying on a marble table top overnight.
The result is a perfect impression of the lemon slice on the marble.
Is there anything that can be done to remove it? Am I right in thinking
that the acidic lemon juice has etched into the marble? Tony, July
8, Reply |
R1:
Dear Tony: Well, if you don't like the "perfect impression" of the
lemon slice, you'll have to get a professional stone refinisher to
fix the damage for you. It's not a DIY project.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2182: My mom is trying
to strip paint from her marble fireplace but it seems to leave
a residue of some kind. The paint remover she is using is a marble
safe stripper, (so it says on the container) but I am clueless how
to get the paint out of the little crevices or how to get the residue
off. Any ideas would be very appreciated. Carter, July 8, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carter: If the label of the product says that it's marble-safe,
then it must be expensive stuff!! No solvent-based stripper can damage
marble. Get a cheap paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride and
use a medium bristle brush (natural fiber). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA |
| Q 2180:
How can I clean a very dirty Italian marble floor that is an entryway?
Singer, July 8, Reply |
| Q 2167: We have recently
installed black galaxy granite Your
site is really great I wish I would have found it before we installed
the granite. Anyway, we sealed it and I noticed rings
left from cranberry juice so I used steel wool to get them out, which
it did and now I have a light area where I used the steel wool.
Then I decided it was the sealer which left the mark (it looked like
it was etched). So I scrubbed the sealer off. but I still don't know
if it needs to be sealed or not. I did the lemon juice test and it
seemed to pass with flying colors. It also seems that if some kind
of juice even wine is left on the counters it doesn't stain (or etch)
it but if there is a glass on it, it seems to leave a ring. I don't
know if we should put the sealer back on or not. Any help you can
give me would be greatly appreciated, I am going nuts with this. Thank
you. Audrey, July 6, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Audrey: I believe I already answered you question. You don't
strip a sealer with steel wool. You need a paint stripper based
on Methylene Chloride. Anything else won't cut it. And, no, black
Galaxy does not need to be sealed. The reason why you have your current
problem is due to the fact that it was sealed anyway. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2150: I recently bought
a 60 year old house that has a beautiful 400 sq. ft. marble patio.
The marble is in 12 inch squares, each of which are 1 inch thick.
Over time the patio has stained. I would like to clean it,
then seal it to retard further stains. My questions are: 1) is this
a project that a reasonably sophisticated do-it-yourselfer can accomplish?
2) What process and products would I use to do it? 3) Assuming you
do not recommend doing it myself, what should I look for in a contractor
do determine if he knows what he is talking about? I am in
Portland, OR. Thanks! Rob, July 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rob: The answer to your first question is: NO CAN DO!! Just forget
it. Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the
link to my column, ROCKING THE bOAT. Click on it, and look for the
article about selecting a good stone restoration/refinishing company.
That should help you with your decision. Further more, I just so happen
to know of a terrific little restoration company (man and wife team
... The best combination!!) right in your neck of the woods. If you're
interested, send an E-mail to this site (you can use the "Reply" link
at the end of your own question) and ask them to put you in touch
directly with me. I'll be glad to assist you. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA |
From
your response it appears I was right to investigate before I took
the word of the various local people I called who told me about various
cleaning and sealing products. I read your article.
I want to clarify a couple things: 1) the finish on my patio is not
"polished". I'm not sure if it ever was, but I would hesitate to have
slick finish on an outdoor floor, especially in Oregon!
2) The stains on the patio are mostly dirt. I have power washed it
a couple times over the last 7 years, and the dirt does come out with
water. The problem is the finish is porous, so it gets stained again.
3) The "honing" process you describe would seem to result in a slick
polished finish. I don't think I want that, for safety reasons. but
is that the only way to get the stains out and keep the surface from
being prone to staining again? The fact that I can get it pretty clean
with power washing (or with scrubbing - I've done some hands and knees
work on it too) would seem to indicate that perhaps I can get it clean
short of honing it to a polish. but that does not prevent re-staining.
Thanks very much for your advice. Rob |
| A 2147: I'm looking
to buy some marble care products for 1) removing stains like vinegar
and 2) general cleaning. Also looking into how I can whiten my grouting
lines --- it is so dark now that I can see rectangular marble slabs
now! Thanks. Winston, July 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Winston: Vinegar does not stain, it corrodes (etches) the
marble surface. Those "stains" are actually surface damages. To "remove"
them, you have to implement a full fledged restoration procedure.
Don't get scared, though! ... If they are light to medium etches (which
is typically the case with vinegar) you can repair the damage by using
a polishing compound for marble designed for DIYers. Also, read my
answer to the 2146 posting right below yours. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA |
| |
| A 2130:
How can I clean our white marble Chinese lions who have been
guarding our front door and have become stained very badly with plant
debris. I appreciate they will never return to their snowy white state
but they look very sad at the moment and in dire need of tender loving
care. Sue, June 27,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: Try to clean it with acetone first (available at any hardware
store) to remove any possible resinous residue from the plants, then
if it's still stained, brush is lightly with a solution of water and
household bleach (and don't forget the elbow grease!! In this case
it has to come in the form of repetition, not pressure). Neither one
of the two chemicals will effect the marble and its natural patina.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2126:
I have just installed marble flooring in my new house. However a great
deal of acid has fallen on it and a large area has become etched
quite deeply. What do I do? the area has become very fragile.
I am not sure I can get a replacement piece to match the colour on
the rest of the floor. HELP!!!!! Sonia, UK, June 26,
Reply |
| R2:
If the acid did indeed make the tile completely fragile then replacement
is the only remedy. Do call a stone refinishing expert for an on site
inspection. Regards, Steven, USA |
R1:
Dear Sonia: before you make any further decision, get hold of
a good professional stone refinisher. If they're worth their salt,
they will take care of your problem. Toward the end of this page's
left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE bOAT.
Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good stone
refinisher. That should help you with your decision.
Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click
on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
A 2125:
We recently imported some kitchen marbletops for a mobile island kitchen.
The pieces sits on wood furniture carts which can be rolled around.
I noticed that there were opaque straight lines running up/down
and left/right on the the white marbletop. It feels like some
machine did a bad job of honing the marble. Some lines can be felt
if you run your finger across them. On some of the marble tops there
are abrasions which can be seen/felt. A fine marble dust covers the
pieces.
Also the top does not have any kind of shine or reflection on it.
Does not look if any sealer was applies on the surface which I think
is necessary for a kitchen marble island.
Please advice how this problem can be corrected in-house or will I
have to seek professional help. Our furniture line is "rustic" so
a fine finish is not mandatory. Thanks for your help. June 26, Reply |
| R2:
It was not finished completely. The finishing process should be done
by a professional. Regards, Steven,
USA |
| R1:
I know exactly what your problem is and how to take care of it
in an easy way that anybody can do. Too bad I don't deal with anonymous.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2118:
I'm looking to buy some marble care products for 1) removing
stains like vinegar and 2) general cleaning. Also looking into how
I can whiten my grouting lines --- it is so dark now that I can see
rectangular marble slabs now! Thanks. Winston, June 26, Reply |
R1:
Dear Winston: 1) You can't remove a scratch with a cleaning product
or a poultice, can you? Then, by the same token, you can't remove
vinegar "stains". They do look like stains but are, in fact, a surface
damage, namely acid etches (sort of a wide, shallow chemical scratch).
You can repair the damage, however. Send an E-mail to this site (you
can use the "Reply" link at the end of your very question) and ask
them to put you in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to assist
you.
2) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left
side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2082:
My mother-in-law has an antique marble sink that she is restoring
& placing in a sideboard to go in her new homes bathroom. There
is one problem, there are yellow brown stains on the marble. It
originally came from a bathroom in an old home. It may be makeup products,
oils, or rust. The sink is in wonderful shape besides that no cracks
chips or anything. If anyone has any suggestions please help. Thank
you, Missy, June 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Missy: Those stains are there for good. Just think of them as
part of the "character" of the piece! ... Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA |
A 2070:
I have recently acquired a new apartment using Perlatino Sicilia marble
slabs in the living room. As part of the interior design, I have extended
the living room at the expense of the storeroom. As a result, I had
to buy and install additional marble slabs in the storeroom area.
I have a couple of questions:
1) The new marble slabs are lighter than the ones in the living room.
Is there any way I can 'stain' them a shade darker? If yes,
can a non-skilled person like myself do the application.
2) Do I need to seal the new marble slabs? If it is recommended,
what product should I use?
3) After the polishing have been done (pls assume that it
is going by the normal method), the grout lines appeared darker
so much so that it demarcates each and every slab. Any theory on why
this happens and what I can do to get them back to their original
invisible colour? Thanks, Winston, Singapore, June 16, Reply |
R1:
Dear Winston: I will answer to your questions in the same order they
were asked:
1) No, you can't.
2) No, you don't. "Perlatino Sicilia" (geologically a compact limestone)
is an extremely dense stone and absorbs very little, if anything.
Try to spill a few drops of water on it and you will notice that even
if you let the water sit there for an hour, none of it will go in
the stone.
3) I don't understand what you're talking about. Why did you have
your floor polished after installation. Weren't the slabs already
polished by the factory? Now, granting that -- for some mysterious
reason -- you had the floor polished, I can NOT assume that it was
polished by "the normal method" (as you call it). No truly professional
method of polishing could darken your grout lines. So, I must assume
that they did not actually polished your floor (no matter how shiny
it looks) but "crystallized" it instead, which has been proven as
being a fake way of polishing (kind of a high-tech, high-risk way
of waxing. You're darn lucky that your particular marble can take
the chemical beating inherent to such dubious process.) The reason
why I assume that, is because the "polishing" is done with steel wool
pads under the floor machine (instead of white nylon pads, or natural
fiber pads), and steel wool, effected by the strong acid which is
the main part of any "crystallization" concoction, can make the grout
darker. What to do now? Nothing unfortunately, other than scraping
off the grout and apply new one. Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA |
| A 2065:
Our marble vanity countertop had become dull in one particular
location. Much of the rest looked as good as new. Upon having
a refinisher review the situation in Nov, 01, he indicated it was
caused by cleaners, etc with citrus extracts. I thought it may have
been caused by my contact lens cleaning solution because the location
of the problem was exactly where I cleaned my lenses. He said not
possible. The counter top was then diamond buffed, honed and polished.
It is now becoming apparent that the dull haze is coming back in the
same location. We are using only approved marble cleaners and am keeping
all contact lens material in the sink. The refinisher claims what
ever we did before, we are still doing and are causing this problem.
I am certain this is not true. What could be the answer? I have another
appointment with the refinisher and would be interested in your reply
ASAP. Thank you. Nancy, June 15, Reply |
R1:
Dear Nancy: Your stone refinisher is dead wrong: Contact lenses cleaner
do etch marble. (besides, any pH active generic cleaner could etch
marble, not only those based on citric acid.) If you want, I could
teach you how to refinish your marble surface yourself. It's pretty
easy, in consideration that you're dealing with a light etching (just
send an E-mail to this site and ask them to get in touch directly
with me). After that, yes, you guessed, keep your countertop protected
(with a plastic sheet or something) where and when you
clean your lenses.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's
left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA |
A 2062:
The polished top of our marble table appears to be etched.
We had a party and someone spilled white wine on a small area.
The area appears to have lost its finish and feels rough.
It has been recommended to treat the area with a mixture of plaster
of Paris and acetone, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2 days.
A similar problem occurred 4 years ago and professionals refinished
the top. Soon thereafter glass rings appeared to flaw the polished
finish. Do you have any suggestions? bob, June 14, Reply |
R1:
Dear bob: Get hold of the person who advised you to remove your etch
mark by using a poultice designed to remove oily stains (acetone)
and shoot him or her dead, possibly on a Sunday morning in the middle
of your town's square! You'd be rendering humankind a great favor!!!
An etch mark is -- like you already know -- some sort of shallow,
chemical scratch. How can you possibly remove a scratch with a poultice,
which is meant to remove oily stains??!!
You had your marble surface refinished before and that's the only
way to go about repairing a surface damage such as an etch mark, unless
you want to try doing it yourself, which I'd be glad to teach you
(just send an E-mail to this site asking them to get in touch directly
with me). After that, keep your finger crossed and keep your stone
surface protected. No stone impregnator/sealer under the sun (not
even mine!) will ever prevent such types of occurrence. Sealer for
stones only help prevent stains (true stains, that is) not a surface
damage just because it so happens to look like a stain.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's
left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2013:
We moved into a house that has quite a bit of marble. The marble
is in good shape but has a lot of water stains that don't seem
to come out. Any suggestions? Katy, June 4, Reply |
R1:
Dear Katy: A lot has been already said, and several times over, about
"water stains".
Hit the "Reply" link at the end of your very question and ask to get
in touch directly with me. I will tell you a web site where you can
learn everything you need to know about "water stains" (which, by
the way, are NOT stains) and how to cope with them.
I would also encourage you to get my free maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of
this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2000:
I have a yellow stain that has appeared on my cultured marble
vanity top. It is directly under the soft soap bottle. In my old
home the same stain appeared under the bar soap on the bathtub ledge.
What causes this problem and how can it be resolved? Thanks,
Nep. June 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nep: This is a place where expert advice is given on natural
stone matters. Cultured Marble (despite its misleading name)
is manmade material (plastic, that is). We don't know the first thing
about it! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| |
| A 1997:
Can you help? One of my kids dripped lemon juice over my honed
marble flooring. It left white spots on the floor which appears
to have gotten through the sealer, is there anyway to repair this
with some kind of poultice? I had an issue like this with my limestone
and had to have it professionally buffed (way expensive) but that
was cleaning solutions that got on the flooring. Any help in this
regard would be much appreciated. Gina, June 1, Reply |
R1:
Dear Gina: This goes to show how brainwashed are the people who sold
and install your marble to you. They "solve" all problems with
a sealer!! The lemon juice didn't go through the sealer, it simply
totally ignored it! A sealer for stone -- which is below surface to
begin with -- is designed to prevent stains, not "stains" (like the
ones you have) and can do absolutely nothing to prevent the most common
problem with calcite-based stone, which is the damages that all acidic
substances (like the lemon juice) do to the surface of the stone by
mere contact. Such type of damage (etching) has nothing to do with
the porosity of the stone (which is what a sealer for stone deals
with). It is exclusively the consequence of the chemical makeup of
the stone itself.
Since it's not a stain, but a surface damage (like a scratch) you
can't poultice it out. You need to refinish the stone surface. If
you have a little patience and are a handy person you can do it yourself
to an acceptable degree. You can use metal-grade sandpaper starting
with a 100 grit, followed by 200 and finish with a 400. It's best
if you do the whole procedure on a puddle of water. Each grit will
need to be worked for approximately 2 minutes per square foot and
the following grits will have ot overlap approximately 1" all around
the previous one. Once everything is dry, if you still notice a certain
difference, you can try to even everything out by rubbing (dry) a
No. 1 steelwool pad. If all the above is too much for you, then get
a professional stone refinisher.
Oh, by the way, don't forget to thank your dealer and installer for
the "stone intelligence" they were able to supply you with.
Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's
side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA |
| |
A 1937:
We have some problem with our marble. Marble is not giving good
polishing. How to avoid or cover the cracks? What types of resins
we have to use for covering cracks? And tell me the resining process.
This is the chemical analysis of our marble:
Cao 47.9%
Mgo 2.1%
Sio2 21.8
Fe2o3 2.2%
Fe2o3 2.2%
Al2o3 1.3%
Loi 24.1%
Physical analysis:
Water absorption % 0.027
Specific gravity 2.85
Compressive strength kg/cm2 456
Modulus of rupture kg/cm2 285
Abrasion strength kg/cm2 150
Thanks, Surendra, India, May 20, Reply |
| R3:
Dear Surendra: I don't
know who did the chemical analysis and the geotechnical properties
of your marble but I would start by getting your money back. You have
cracks that you are trying to cover and only a water absorption of
0.027% - no way! You measure abrasivity in kg/cm2 - no way! You have
CaO of 47.9% and yet a LOI of only 24% - what magic is this?? To find
out why you are having difficulties polishing your marble you must
find out what the mineralogy is. It is the composition of the minerals,
their orientation, and the texture which largely determines the quality
of the polish (assuming your machinery and your techniques are in
order). Get a stone specialist to do a petrographic analysis! This
should be your first and most important step in working out your problem.
(Dr. Hans), Australia |
| R2:
Dear Surendra, is your
chemical analysis correct? What is it "Loi"? Your stone is not true
marble or limestone because of large amount of SiO2. Maybe quartz
grains are situated inside limestone or marble, which can make problem
during polishing. Daniel, Slovakia |
| R1:
Dear Surendra: by the chemical analysis you're reporting, your marble
is no marble! To be classified as marble a stone has to have at least
60% of Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) in it. It's not the case, here. The
presence of the Magnesium Silicate (among other weird things) may
help classify the stone as a dolomitic marble, but I have no idea
what this 24.1% of Loi is all about. If you wish, you're welcome to
send me a few samples of your "marble", so that I can fool around
with them a little bit. If I can't polish that thing, then it can't
take a polish, period; but if it has even a remote chance, then I
will find it for you. If you're interested, hit the "reply" link at
the end of your own posting and ask to get in touch directly with
me. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
A 1923: I've
recently installed a 4' marble enamel stone on a wet bar. I had to
sand down the sharp edge to create a bullnose, which took off the
enamel finish. I'm looking for a product that will put the luster
back on the sanded part.
I'm told there is a product called "Maxillae or Mexseal." If
this is available or something that will do the job, please contact
me.I'm located in Jacksonville, Florida. Thank you, Jeffrey, May 17,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Jeffrey: 4' marble
enamel stone??? What on earth is that?! How can one possibly remove
enamel from marble??? Why should there be enamel on marble in the
first place???
I'm afraid that stuff is as much marble as I am the emperor of China!!
Sorry, I'm a stone man. I'm not in the enamel business. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1818:I
need to find out what to use to clean tumble marble backsplash,
Michael, May 14. Reply
|
| R2:
If the backsplash has
been impregnated, use a neutral pH spray cleaner by the same manufacturer
of the impregnator. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1799: I
have used "Lysol basin tub and tile cleaner" on some
grout and now have lightened streaks on my marble shower walls. It
appears to have bleached the surface.. it also must have been acidic
as the polished marble finish in the streaks is dull. Can they be
removed, polished out or otherwise fixed? SDS, central Florida,,May
14.Reply |
| R2:
You have
etched the marble. It will require a professional refinisher to fix
it. After you fix it discontinue using all caustic cleaners in the
area. Switch to neutral pH products and elbow grease. Regards, Steven,
USA |
| A 1787:I
just recently found a pair of little water fountains which are painted
white. Under the white paint is marble. I have been trying to
get the paint off the marble with paint thinner, but it's not working
very well. How can I get it off easily without damaging the marble?
And if it is already damaged how can I make it look good again? kristy
May 14.Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kristy: Let's
take one issue at a time. First, the paint thinner must be based on
Mythelene Chloride, or else it will never work 100%. Apply it liberally,
then use a medium bristle brush and a nice dose of elbow-grease! No
mineral solvent (and Mythelene Chloride is quite strong, indeed)
can damage marble. Once all the paint is off, if you see that the
surface of the stone is damaged, you can repair it by smoothing it
out with with metal-grade sandpaper starting with a 100 / 120 grit,
followed by 200 / 240, and then 400. the whole procedure must be done
with the constant presence of water. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA |
A 1776:
The information you supplied in this post was very beneficial, however;
I made the mistake of taking a combination of water & vinegar
to my marble coffee table, & those little water spot looking things
appeared. Needless to say I can't get rid of them...any suggestions?
(This was in response to A 1027)
On another marble issue...friends of mine have a bedroom set &
the tops of everything in their bedroom is marble...however, it
doesn't look or feel like the marble I have here (mine is smooth
& shiny, well it was before I took the vinegar & water to
it!) Anyway, there's is very rough to the touch & you can
actually feel the grooves in it, & it's not shiny...any suggestions
on how to clean this?? Thank you for your help & time! Cochran,
May 2. Contact |
| R1:
Dear Cochran: I could
very easily solve your little vinegar problem for you. As far as your
friends' situation is concerned, by the way you describe it to us,
it's either hopeless (that particular finish was meant to be like
that), or it's way beyond the solution that I have for your own problem.
They will need to have a pro take a look at their stone. Do contact
me through the "contact" link at the end of your posting and ask to
get in touch directly with me. Ciao, Maurizio, USA |
| R1:
Dear SDS: Wrong cleaner. You etched the surface of the stone. Only
a professional can fix the damage by honing and re-polishing
the marble for you. After that, to avoid to repeat the original mistake,
should you be interested at receiving our free guidelines for maintenance
of residential stone installations, hit the reply/ contact button
at the end of your own question and ask for it. I'll be glad to E-mail
them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
A 1761: We laid white
marble tiles in our hall which has under floor heating laid in a concrete
subfloor almost two years and a half years ago. In the last two years
a series of orange/brown stains have appeared all over the floor.
The staining appears to be getting progressively worse. The floor
has been professionally cleaned on numerous occasions and a poultice
solution has been applied, more than once, but this seems to only
aggravate the matter.
We cannot seem to find a solution to the problem from our cleaners
or the stone suppliers. It has been suggested that water in the concrete
may have caused some oxidizing in the tiles. If this were the case
is there any cleaning process that can remove it. The concrete floor
was laid about four months before we laid the tiles, which we assumed
was ample time to allow it to dry out. Please can you offer any advice?
Ray, April 26. Reply |
R1:
Well, The stains are consistent with iron oxide or perhaps even pyrite
that was in the stone. The real question is what is causing the reaction.
I am sure all of the people you have brought in understand that a
reaction has taken place but has anyone come up with a why yet?
Poultices on marble rarely work in my experience. Marble typically
does not absorb much so pulling something out once it has absorbed
is tough. Further we aren't even sure that the stain originated from
the surface. One avenue to pursue is to establish whether or not an
isolation membrane was used before the slab was poured. If not then
the concrete may be in contact with something that it is wicking through
from the ground.
Without seeing the installation I would not want to recommend a course
of action. I would want to remove the tiles and run some tests. Regards,
Steven, USA |
| A 1757: I am looking
for a product to clean a white marble headstone. Any specific
product you can suggest? bill, April 24. Reply |
| R1:
Hi bill, Your first thought must be. Why do I wish to clean this old
headstone, have I considered the character and patina that has probably
taken years to accumulate. Then if you wish to reverse nature. First,
using clean water, dampen the entire stone gently without disturbing
the dirt. Once the stone has been saturated, use plenty of clean water
and scrub the surface lightly and carefully with a natural bristle
brush just hard enough to lift the surface soiling. Any honest dirt
that remains should be left. Cover the stone with a paper poultice
and allow to dry completely, this will ensure that dissolved particles
are deposited in the paper and not returned the surface of the stone.
OR !!! If you are unsure or the headstone is of particular emotional
or historic importance please employ a qualified conservationist.
Roy. UK. |
|
A 1729: Hi- I have been
asked to clean some marble stairs regularly, so far I have
only swept them, can you tell me the easiest and cheapest way to
clean/shine them? April 18. Reply
|
| R2:
Ongoing care should be a neutral pH cleaner specifically suited for
stone. It may require professional refinishing. It may require a surface
coat to help it. Without seeing the area I can't recommend a specific
program. Regards, Steven, USA |
R1:
Hi! As you are at present only brushing the stairs it would seem no
drastic action is required. If the intention is to just freshen them,
you might try the following.
Firstly damped the stair with clean water this will ensure dirt loosened
during further cleaning will not be absorbed.
Secondly scrub the surface lightly, using a soft natural bristle brush
and a little PH neutral, uncoloured, unscented soap. Wipe off the
excess water. Lay on clean paper towel and allow surfaces to dry into
the paper, this will absorb any dissolved soiling, when the paper
appears to be drying, remove. buff the dry surfaces with a clean cloth.
Roy, UK. |
| |
A 1660: I SAT A LEAKY
bOTTLE OF TV's "ZAP" ON MY bOSSES DARK GREY MARbLE TAbLE TOP.
HE SAID "SHIT HAPPENS" , bUT I FEEL LIKE A REAL TURD WORM. PLEASE
HELP ME GET THIS "WHITISH" STAIN OFF bY MYSELF, WITHOUT COSTING HIM
A LOT OF MONEY. I WOULD SO APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. RAE, April6.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rae: Sorry, you need a pro. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| |
| A 1622: I
have marble floors with white grout. How do I clean the grout
without damaging the marble? Please suggest a product. Myers,
March 31. Reply |
| A 1474:
I represent a general contracting company. We recently installed
a Diane Reale marble countertop, without any sink cutouts. It
was installed on the top of two custom cabinets. There are some
"fissures" in the stone, one of which you can "feel" to the touch.
The marble fabricator has advised that he fabricated the stone and
installed to industry standards and this is the nature of the product.
(The fabricator has advised that the stone tops are stable and secure)
The owner is questioning the fact that you can feel the fissure. Are
there any published guidelines, which indicate specifics characteristics
to the various natural stone products? (or marble in particular) Donna,
USA, Feb 26. Reply |
| R1:
The short answer is not really. With Diano Reale the fabricator could
fill the fissure and polish it smooth. About industry standards, I
am not sure they would apply. This sounds like a customer service
issue. Regards, Steven, USA |
| |
| A 1602: We have a natural
polished marble floor in our shower which we put in when we built
our house six years ago. To minimize any build-up of soap scum
we squgee after every shower but now I am beginning to see the start
of hard water (calcium deposits) on some of the marble areas. Do you
have any ideas on how to minimize this build-up? Scott, March
28. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Scott: Yes, I do, but you're not gonna like the answer. The hard-mineral
deposit that you see is not what it seems to be. In other words, they
are not hard-mineral deposits. If you check your shower stall, especially
in its lower part, you will notice that there's either grout or caulk
missing. The water found its way under the floor tiles and now the
moisture migrates, by absorption, through the core of the stone and
the grout lines. The "mineral deposit" that you see is in fact some
type or another of inorganic salts that emerge on the surface as a
result of the chemical reaction of the water with the makeup of the
stone. The damage is deep inside the stone (actually through and through,
since it started from the bottom). You will be tempted, I'm sure,
to toy around with possible topical remedies (it's human nature at
work!), but ultimately you will have to reach the conclusion that
there's only one painful solution: rip out the floor, reinstall new
tiles, then, from then on, you will monitor you grout and caulk lines
religiously. The good news is that, after all, it's only money! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, USA, |
| |
| A 1490: We have recently
purchased a 4 year old home with a marble shower, tub, etc. The
shower was never dried down and is covered with water spots, minerals,
etc. What can I used to clean this? The shower door is also covered
with scum. Someone suggested CLR. What do you suggest? Also, the house
had two tub enclosures with water spots. Any suggestions for that.
March 4, Reply |
| R2:
Don't use CLR!! We just did, and it bleached the black marble in our
shower. I am trying to see if there is a relatively easy way to repolish
the marble. JSHA, USA. |
R1:
Dear March 4: Thank you for disclosing your name to us who work for
free for you.
My answer is just as meaningful as your identity: March 10. Ciao,
Maurizio, USA |
| |
A 1472:
We have this yellow marble tiles 600 x 300 x 16mm floor installed
on a landed property in the living / dining area, wet method were
used in the polishing process, meaning flooding the place with about
15mm of water and using abrasive stone to polish floor to shine, about
3 month later the floor start to blister & flak (breaking
off). Marble tiles were purchase by home owner direct from
supplier, our role is only to install & polish floor to natural
appearance.
Question:
1.) What do you think is the likely cause of this breaking up of the
surfaces?
2.) Is there other process that might solve this situation?
Kindly response, Thank you, Lee, Singapore, Feb 25. Reply |
R2:
Dear Lee, Is this marble by any chance one that comes from the Middle-East
and has a
biblical name? (Dr.) Hans, Australia |
| R1:
Lee send more information and photographs if you can. It is very difficult
to develop a theory without more information. Regards, Steven, USA
|
| |
| A 1429: I
need information about cleaning marble; I have 3 antique marble
sinks, with original china bowls; one is slightly stained (yellow);
one is perfect, and the other has paint residue from brush cleaning.
can I use sandpaper, and if so, what grit? or do you have a better
alternative for me. also, where can I sell these pieces? Feb 12. Reply |
| R1:
About the yellow stains, just forget about them. For the rest hire
a professional stone refinisher. Don't try anything yourself, for
the sake of your tops! Maurizio, USA, Reply |
| |
| A 1424: I
recently purchased a home with marble flooring. I DID NOT know that
you could not clean with a solution of water and VINEGAR. Hence,
my floor is now splotched. How do I fix this. I am assuming that
it will need resurfacing/polishing. More importantly, I need to know
if it can be repaired. What are my options? Roger, Feb 10, Reply |
R1:
Dear Roger: I was under the impression that the water and vinegar
thing had gone out of fashion, by now! back in the early and mid nineties
I made tons of money out of vinegar: I was selling it by the square
foot, not by bottle!! Then it looked that people wised-up, finally
... Well, with a few exceptions, of course!
Yes, it can be repaired, but you need a pro. Make sure that they won't
do "crystallization" on your marble, and that they will implement
a proven traditional method of polishing, they way it was done in
the factory. Refuse to have it sealed.
Your option is to cover the floor with carpet!! Joke aside, unfortunately,
there are no options. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| |
| A 1292: Hi. My brother was stripping layers
of paint off of his marble fireplace and as the paint came off so
did some green and maroon dye or stain. These colors bring out the
geometric design. Is there any way to restore these colors? Thank
you, Trish, USA. Jan 1. Reply |
| R1: This
is really odd as marble is not usually painted to achieve its colors.
Please contact a local restoration professional to look at the fireplace
for you. best regards Steven, USA, |
| A 1166: I would appreciate
any information regarding Saturnia marble care.
My floors are two years old. The traffic areas are showing wear with
a change of grain colors and pitting in some areas. Thanks, Leonard
Osman. Nov 5, Reply |
R2: Dear Leonard: For
as long as you keep that nasty habit of yours of walking on your floor,
it's going to keep happening! "Saturnia" stone (crosscut travertine)
is typically delivered with a medium hone finish. If you ask me, that
finish -- because of the way the polishing lines in the factories
are set up to work -- is not fit for sale (it's not uniform and is
all swirly). Furthermore, as you probably know, travertine is full
of natural holes that get filled in the factory with some sort of
cementitious material. Foot traffic will generate wear and tear patterns,
which will alter the original look of the factory finish and will
also remove some of the filler. I believe it's simple to understand,
isn't it. So, why is it the dealer who sold the stone to you wasn't
able to answer your question (I bet you asked him, didn't you?). To
restore the surface of your floor to a finish as close to the factory
spec as possible (including the refilling of the holes) you need a
professional stone refinisher. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, USA |
| |
R1: Greetings! As Saturnia is a form of travertine,
wear and tear to the degree that fill material is being lost is not
unusual. What may be unusual is that it is occurring within two years
of installation.
Is this an extremely high traffic area? If so, I am sorry to tell
you that whoever specified the product did not use the right material
for the right spot. The only thing I suggest you do now is clean the
floor with a neutral cleaner, seal the travertine with a good protective
coating and use rugs in this particular area.
Questions to ponder are: Can you change the traffic flow to other
areas to equalize the wear? Can you remove the Saturnia in the traffic
area and find a coordinating stone that will take high traffic without
deteriorating? Is the area truly receiving high traffic? Is the material
wearing at a consistent rate within the traffic areas?
best of luck, Steven, USA |
| A
1133: We are renovating our home in Malaysia, and have just installed
approx. 3000 square feet of factory - polished fossil beige marble
flooring, as well as marble on the walls and floors of the bathrooms.
The marble has been treated with a solvent-based
sealer (Novabond (TM). No matter how many times I mop the floor with
water, it still appears to be covered by a haze. Is this due
to the sealer? Is it possible to remove this haze and restore the
high polish by application of any kind of marble treatment? The contractor
sold us a bottle of some kind of wax product, which is supposed to
be diluted with water and mopped onto the floor. We have not tried
it yet. Do you recommend waxing a marble floor to protect it from
normal foot traffic? Will this wax product restore the shine to the
marble? The marble floor on the outside balcony is exposed to equatorial
sun and rain, and the natural rust-coloured veins in those tiles are
becoming more pronounced, even though they were also treated with
sealer. We are wondering whether we should apply polyurethane or another
product for extra protection of the exterior marble flooring. because
of the large area, we are thinking to invest in a polishing machine
(not possible to rent these machines here in Malaysia). The salesman
recommends a Taski ergodisc 400rpm sold by DiverseyLever Ltd. in UK.
He normally sells this machine to mosques and commercial outlets,
but not so much for residential use. I am confused whether this machine
is meant for merely buffing the marble, or for actually polishing
it. In your opinion, would such a machine be of practical use to help
keep up the marble floors? Thanks--D. Chan, Malaysia, Oct 11, Reply |
| R6:
Well, I wasn't lucky enough to ever be in Malaysia, so I did not consider
the possibility posted by Fred. If that's the case, then the first
thing to do is to strip out the sealer, then wait, wait, wait .............!
What did I tell you about the possibility of a second opinion! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, USA, |
|
| R5:
Several years ago I visited Malaysia and saw several homes with marble
floors and they all had the same problem. That problem was improper
installation and a very high moisture problem. The haze you are seeing
is most likely soluble salts which is known as efflorescence. If you
try sealing the stone you will only make it worst. The continued rusting
that you are seeing is also the result of moisture. My advise is to
simply clean the stone, do not seal it.. Eventually the problem will
disappear, but it may take years. Fred,
USA, |
|
| R4:
Hi, Don't wax marble, try mineral spirit or acetone to get the haze
of if not then strip the floor. polishing machine is for professionals.
unless you want to learn how to polish. Pini, USA, |
|
| R3:
Dear Chan, The hazy appearance is likely to have been caused by the
sealer being applied on a damp floor. If the sealer was applied soon
after the tiles were laid, the tiles and substrate may still have
been damp. It is difficult to be more precise without knowing how
the tiles were fixed to the floor. The only remedy is to strip the
sealer by re-polishing the marble. There is no need to wax the floor
if you have sealed it. Waxing the floor can be used as a replacement
to sealing but it does not give as a high a level of stain resistance.
The good thing about wax is that it is not permanent, it can also
give a good lustre to the marble. As far as the rust stains on the
outside stone is concerned, it appears that you have some unstable
iron based minerals present in the stone that are rusting and bleeding
out. It is difficult to fully exclude water from getting into stone.
You not only have to seal the stone surface but also grout lines and
ensure that water can not travel up from the substrate. The use of
an impervious coating like polyurethane could be dangerous as it could
lead to spalling or micro-pitting . I STRONGLY SUGGEST you do nothing
until you get a stone consultant to look at your problems otherwise
even greater damage could occur. Contact me if you want further advice.
Regards, Jim, Australia, |
|
| R2:
This may be sealer/impregnator excess on the surface of the stone.
If it leaves footprints or looks dirty this is definately the problem.
Try an intensive stone cleaner with a natural fiber pad and floor
machine. Wet vacuum the solution after scrubbing. Repeat as necessary.
Maintain regularly with a stone soap. bob, USA, |
|
R1:
A lot of stuff, here!
First off, to set the record straight, all geological marbles and
compact limestones I know of are fossile! Travertine is not, but it's
by itself.
Never heard about that sealer, but it really doesn't matter.
Now you have a haze.
There are only three possibilities I can think of:
1. The residue of the sealer was not cleaned properly after application.
To find out if this is the case, try on a small spot with a paint
remover based on Methylene Chloride.
2. The grout was not cleaned properly and now you have a film left
on the floor. To find out, try using a brand-new razor blade after
spraying some water on a small section of a tile.
3. The floor has been cleaned with some acidic solution (water and
vinegar, maybe) or just a floor cleaner that had not been formulated
to deal with the delicate chemistry of marble. If the two tests above
don't work, than this could be the case. If so, you need a professional
stone refinisher, because the "haze" you see is, in fact, chemical
etching.
The application of a floor finish (wax) would be only detrimental
at this point, no matter which one of the three cases above you're
dealing with. Do NOT do it! You must find the solution to your problem
first, then rectify the situation before any maintenance procedure
gets into the picture, otherwise, you would be maintaining ... the
problem!
The application of a proper floor finish (wax, or whatever) finds
my approval, for as long it's a product specifically formulated for
polished stone FLOORS (many so-called "marble polish" are not meant
to be used on floors. It's even written on the product directions).
There two basic types of polished stone floor finishes:
A) No-film forming products, which are more user-friendly, and therefore
cater to residential dwelling. They don't offer the kind of tough
protection that film-forming finishes do, but a residential concern
usually doesn't need such an heavy-duty product. Once applied properly,
no-film forming products are totally unnoticeable, which means that
the marble looks as natural as if nothing was applied onto it.
b) Film-forming products. They're designed for high-traffic situations,
such as shopping malls, office building, hotel lobbies, etc. Against
a better protection, they have the disadvantage to be noticeable,
and give the marble surface a "plastiky" look. What's more, they are
not user-friendly and require high-speed floor burnishing machines.
The machine that you're looking into (400 RPM) could be -- maybe --
good for some finishes of the type b) above. It is certainly no good
(too fast) for the type A). Considering the size of your floor, a
professional floor machine is indeed recommendable, but I wouldn't
consider anything above the 175 RPM for residential use. Unless, of
course, you decide to opt for a floor finish of the type b) (that
in my opinion is an overkill), in which case I would suggest you to
get a professional floor burnisher (1500 / 2500 RPM).
Lastly, the bad news: Marble does not belong outdoors, period. As
far as the polyurethane application is concerned, don't even think
about it! Unfortunately, if somebody offers you a solution -- any
solution -- for the outdoors portion of your floor, it will inevitably
turn out to be a lie. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
|
Thank you, everyone. I believe it is sealer residue. Each
and every tile was painted with sealer on top, underneath and sides,
and care was not taken to wipe off the excess sealer. Sealer was applied
in advance
of laying the marble, and the stone was dry. Marble layers have taken
pains to wipe away excess grout. Nor have we used any acidic solution
for washing the floors. |
|
Do you mean to say that the chemicals recommended will not
harm the polish beneath the haze? Will they actually strip the sealer
-- and not just the sealer residue -- from the surface of the stone?
As soon as we
can procure the methylene chloride-based paint remover, mineral spirit
and acetone, we will make a test on wasted stones. -- D. Chan, Malaysia,
|
|
Well,
yes, Methylene Chloride (don't waste your time with Acetone, it won't
do it) will strip the sealer also, not just the residue. but that
can't be helped. Which, at this point, begs the question: "Are you
sure that you want
to seal your marble floor?" Rest assured, mineral solvents don't damage
marble. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, |
|
A
1132: I'd like to know how to take care of my marble
countertop at home. It has been used for years and has
marks from liquids and foods. Aside from elbow grease, what
do I need and how do I go about it? Do you have a kit
and a manual? Martha, USA, Oct 10, Reply
|
| R4:
The top will probably need to be refinished or at the least repolished.
I would recommend a professional do this. You can then implement a
good maintenance program. Check with a reputable distributor of products
for stone. bob, USA, |
|
| R3:
Dear Martha: Marble does not belong in a kitchen (countertop or floor),
and you're now facing the consequences of that. Forget about elbow-grease
and manuals. You can't even begin to phatom the equipment, material
and professionalism involved! Do yourself a favor and get a professional.
Or, better yet: get rid of it and go granite (the right one, though!)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA,
|
|
| R2:
Martha, Since this has been going on for so long you probably
need to have the countertops rehoned or polished. This is so tricky
and messy that I doubt you find any willing takers. So, the next best
thing is to refer to FindStone's library of articles and there are
many good answers to try. Good luck, Steven, USA,
|
|
| R1:
Dear Martha: Kindly take a look at the library section of FindStone.
You
can also refer to the previously answered questions by our team of
experts in the same section. FindStone Team |
A 1017: I have a marble countertop that no longer
has a shine. Can the marble be stained a color (for
ex., green)? How can I restore a shine to the surface? Pam, USA.
June 23 reply
R1: Using natural care
products you should be able to bring back a lot of the original shine and
look to your marble. (I am assuming you have natural marble.) If you
have manmade (cultured) marble, use a good not abrasive cleaner like Gel
Gloss or Hope polish on it. Most times if it is dull is "scratched"
because of abrasives in the cleaners used. Cultured marble can be buffed
by hand by using a good automotive buffing solution (car polish type) or
even better use a power buffer like you would use to buff automobiles, using
the same compounds and you can bring back the shine as long as there is
still "clearcoat/gelcoat" in sufficent thickness left on the marble. A
heavy duty buffing like this is a 1 or 2 times in its lifetime sort of thing
so once you get it buffed, be sure to use a completely non abrasive cleaner
as mentioned above to prevent re-occurance. Good luck! bill, USA
R2: The answer to the
first question is NO, period. The answer to your second question is NO (without
period!). What I mean is that while it's just impossible to stain marble,
it is very possible to re-polish your marble countertop, but it is something
that no homeowner -- no matter how "handy" -- can do. The equipment can't
be rented, and the materials involved (honing elements and polishing powders)
are not available at your local hardware store. Not to mention the professionalism
that's involved, which is the utmost requirement. I say that stone refinishing
is the pinnacle of all stone-related activities. You need a professional
stone refinisher. Look on the Yellow Pages under the heading: "Marble and
Terrazzo cleaning", or inquire with several local tile showrooms and marble
fabrication shops. Good luck! Maurizio, USA
A 946: How to remove grout and other pasty
material from marble and also how to care for and clean marble. Ani, March
22, USA. Reply
R1: First, you remove the worst by
using a razor blade (keep it flat, not to scratch the marble surface and
discard often). Second, you can clean the remaining film with a mixture
of warm water and a specific product that I manufacture (sorry, I wouldn't
want to use this site to advertise my products, but in this particular case,
to the best of my knowledge, my product is the only one available on the
market to solve this kinds of problem). Get into my website and look at
the section: "Products". As far as daily maintenance of your marble is concerned,
let me have your address and I will mail you our written guidelines. Good
luck, Maurizio, USA
| A 1337: 'Dear
Maurizio' Today is the first day I came to this site...and have read
this entire page. I noticed that you stated that you were in the stone
business, and that you lived / operated this business in Michigan.
I also live in Michigan and am interested in buying granite countertops
for my kitchen, and would like to know if it is possible to buy
them from you. I noticed throughout your
answers, your knowledge, honesty and sense of integrity are qualities
you possess, and would like to deal with you. Is this
possible? Do you sell to the general public? Sincerely, Rebecca, Jan
16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rebecca: Yes, of course, I do sell to the general public, but
I'm afraid that your source of information is not correct. I live
in New Jersey (where all the fun is!!!), not in Michigan. Sorry, but
if you're interested, I do know a good man out of Shelby Twp. who
could help you out (under my personal guidance, rest assured!). He's
my master distributor for the state of | |
