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ADVICE WANTED!   April 30 , 2004
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Ask any question, share your knowledge, or offer your services!


Q 6672: I live in a pethouse and i have a floor that is white marble, both in the exterior and interior, the exterior is a balcony that is uncovered and exposed to the elements, the floor was laid in 1986, the exterior is obviously not as shiny as the inside through the exposure, the floor has appeared to be of very good quality with minimal staining from plants etc, the primary problem is that approximately 18 months ago the was a water leakage from the ceiling of the apartment underneath mine, there were extensive tests done by various experts, checking the drainage, checking the grouting and the laying of the marble, the only issue that was raised was that in a small area on the exteriors of the balcony the angle of the marble allowed a some water to collect in a puddle, tests were done on the marble whereby the floor was flooded and all drainage systems were blocked so no leakage could occur, the end result was after a period of 1.5- 2 hours the water leakage was coming through the ceiling of the apartment underneath, some marble specialist then came in and sealed the marble with a sealant, however the very next rains the water was leaking through the floor/ceiling, again is it possible for the marble to be sealed so that no water leakage can occuror does it need some other treatment or is there something that can be doneto deal with this problem. your valued response will be appreciated, mark, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Mark: If all the experts who came out could not solve your problem, how can you expect me to solve it without even seeing your situation. Usually I don't answer postings like this one, but I had to make a comment: they actually sealed the marble tiles hoping to solve the problem like that?? Wow! That's totally hilarious all right! Was the marble guy who performed the sealing job able to remain serious while doing it??! Is there a limit to human stupidity?? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: Mark, if there are no cracks in the grout or the marble it can be easily sealed. However if rainwater is finding it's way beneath the marble from an opening near a wall or balcony support that's another story. If you apply 2 coats of Stain-Proof to clean, solid, grout and marble then water will not penetrate it.

Q 6671: I have a sandstone foyer that is always muddy and full of paw prints from my 2 dogs. I am hoping to find a sealer that actually seals the stone and leaves behind a "shiny" finish (like a ceramic tile finish) that would be easier to mop and clean. Is there anything I can use? I have used several sandstone sealers over the past 10 years that say they don't affect the natural finish of the sandstone. I am tired of the dirty look and want something easier to clean (just mop it). Help, Leila, April 29, Reply

R1:Dear Leila: Sorry, no such animal. :-( Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6670: We are building a cabin that will be shared with others and loaned out to various arts/charitable organizations (may be auctioned off at benefits to (choke) total strangers). Lots of kids and pets will be using it. I will be in charge of maintenance…and I don’t want to be a slave to it. I want it to be very beautiful and very resilient. I'd prefer to use natural and elemental materials (i.e., not too processed and polished). Sorry this has turned so long, please stick with it because I really need help!

I am putting Virginia slate over main floors as one of most tough carefree stones, right? (I read contradicting stories - Sealing every few years is not too much work for me and removing occasional spots is not too much work. - I have seen wood recommended over stone, but wood is quite high maintenance: dogs, kids, high heels, water all easily damage it - it is difficult to repair. I prefer stone over man-made tile.)

I am hoping to use something like a honed Sao Francisco for kitchen countertops. Is there a better stone that will work here? I want a matte green-gray or blue-gray look but would consider other colors or stone varieties. Should I seal it or apply an oil coat/color enhancer? (Yes, Maurizio, I have read you hate honed...but I'm still hoping there's some stone out there that will be functional in this finish!)

I have fallen in love with a translucent white onyx, and am thinking of using it on a small back-lighted bathroom wall, perhaps in the shower. Reasonable? Thanks in advance, Karen in Minnesota. April 29, Reply, April 29, Reply

R1: Well, Karen, slate is not certainly an easy to maintain material! By applying an impregnator/selaer like my MB-4 you will prevent stains, but you will never present scratches and etchings. What's more, those damages are impossible to remove due the typical natural cleft finish of slate. I urge you to reconsider. There are porcelain tiles that do look like slate, and are bullet-proof!
A stone color enhancer like my MB-6 would be "your man." Soapstone is an interesting material, too.
On a back-lighted wall is quite all right. In the shower is certainly not recommendable.

Q 6669: Your website is fabulous and an excellent source for questions pertaining to various natural stones. I have a recently remodeled bathroom that was installed with crema marfil marble and there is sedements of grout on the marble that is leaving a blotchy rough feel at the touch. I attempted to clean the marble with hot water and a rag but the roughness is still there. Please let me know if there is another method to clean away the grout residue from the marble so that there is no longer a roughness to what should be a smooth surface, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Debi: The chemical of choice would be an acid, but you do NOT want to use that on your marble!! So, what’s left, it’s a good ol’ razor blade and lots of patience! Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation are available for a small fee in the “Educational Literature, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6668: MY NAME IS SUE AND I NEED HELP ON GIVING MY GRANITE COUNTERTOPS TO SHINE. WE HAVE ONLY HAD THEM FOR 6 MONTHS. AND I CAN'T SEEM TO GET THEM TO SHINE. PLEASE TELL ME OF A PRODUCT THAT I CAN BUY TO GIVE THAT SHINE, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Sue: With a last name like yours, that’s all you need!! :-)
No, seriously, I don’t quite understand your problem. It may just be that your “granite” is not a big shiner. You’re in direct contact with me now: can you give me more details? What kind of granite do you have? Was it nice and shiny when it was delivered? Let me know. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: Dear sir you can use wood colour stone from us it appears same like wood it is availabble in sizes 1x1.and 2x2 ft thickness18 to 20 mm for your kitchen top you can use black Galaxy granite its look is fantastic black base with shinning pearls like galaxy full of stars in no moon night for your bath room you can use redish transparent or green transparent onex from us regards s joshi

R3: Hi Karen yes reasonable,because onyx is so persistant stone when it comes to water,good luck. Mohamed

Q 6667: We have honed Birzeit Limestone tiles in our shower stall. Sometime after they were installed and sealed, we noticed that dull white spots were appearing on the shower stall floor. We had the shower stall floor sanded and resealed but, after some weeks, the dull white stops reappeared. How can we remove these? Is there an appropriate product to use? April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Suzanne: Here we go again! One chooses one of the lousiest materials possible for a shower stall and then thinks that everything can be solved with the application of a stupid sealer! Most limestone installations are successful, but every now and then (still all too many, if you ask me) there are problems, none of which with any solution. In your particular case I have no idea what you have (although I lean toward the possibility that there’s water under those tiles), but one thing is for sure: you’re not gonna solve your problem by cleaning and sealing! Or by using any other chemical available under the sun. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: The white spots may be efflorescence. Salts migrating up with water through your stone. When the salt hits the air it forms calcium carbonate. This can be stopped. Be sure your grout is it good condition then put 2 coats of Dry Treats Stain-Proof on your floor. It will prevent water from being absorbed by your stone and grout. Yet it is "breathable" and will let any moisture under the stone to evaporate through the stone as water vapor. The salt cannot be transported by the vapor it must move in liquid form. Since Stain-Proof will impregnate deeply it will stop the salt solids from getting to the surface. After a week clean off any existing efflorescence on your floor and it won't come back. Bob

Q 6666: I am building an outdoor grill island with brick wall, but still undecided on what material should I use for the countertop. My choices for the countertop are granite, bluestone, or limestone. I have to consider cost, durability, strength, and how well can it withstand the heat from the grill and side burner. I live in New Jersey,and the outdoor grill island will be exposed to the outside environment all through out the year from summer to winter time, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Ronald: You do NOT want limestone or slate. And about granite, it all depends on the “granite.” Not all are suitable for your purpose. I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a
Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6665: I recently had a portion of my kitchen counter top installed with a slab of granite that the installer called "cotton ball" (from somewhere in South America). It is mostly a deep reddish-brown with lots of black & beige spots and flecks. Is this a true granite? Does it need to be impregnated a lot? The installer said he had treated the stone, but it does get water rings that dry and disappear. Should I try to get him to impregnate it more? Linda, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: Absolutely!! And the sooner the better. Have him impregnate your stone until it won’t absorb anymore. After that, you will implement good routine maintenance procedures that you will not be getting from him, that’s for sure! :-) My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available on pay-per-download format on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE. Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6664: Why is green board not the way to go for shower installation? What is better? Thank you for your advice. Rose, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Rose: Greenboard is very absorbent and you don’t want to use in a shower enclosure. There’s always the possibility that some ware could find its way behind the tiles. Cement board is the way to go. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6663: We just recently installed a new granite counter top (gold leaf). I set a glass of water on the countertop and it left a ring mark. The glass was sitting for about 4 hours before I moved it and realized it left a mark. Will this go away after some time? It has been about an hour and it is still there. I had no idea granite was so porous. Any suggestions on how to remove & prevent future stains? Best Regards, Jill, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Jill: By the time you read this your stain should be long gone! What you have to do know is apply a couple of times my outlandish MB-4 Impregnator/sealer and get a supply of good routine maintenance products. Take a look at the “Consumer Products” You may want to consider one of our two countertop kits. They are on special right now!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6662: I just finished a renovation that included 1) Verde Lavras Granite countertops, 2) Crema Marfil Tumbled Marble backsplash, and a 3) V. Alpi Tumbled Marble Bathroom floor. I am very confused as to how to clean them all and whether or not to seal them again. They were all initially sealed by the installers, and then I purchased a can of K.R. 33 which I haven't yet used. Please advise. Thank You, April 29, Reply

R1: What do you expect me to say? You bought a can of K.R. 33. And what on earth is that? If you want to seal again your stone, is that an impregnator/sealer? And if so, is it the same used by your installer? It’s never a good idea mixing different make impregnators. And why would you want to seal all your stone again? As for routine cleaning you’re right about being concerned. My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6661: I did a search on slate and stain removal and read your comments regarding slate and stains therefore I was hoping you could help me. A guest of mine left salad dressing on the slate inset on our table last night and it seems to have stained the slate. I have tried everything to remove it today that I can think of. I did not realize that slate absorbs like that (we just purchased the table last month) Is there anything I can do??? Thank you very much. Jenny, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Jenny: If the stain is of a lighter color than the slate, then it’s a stain (acid etch that is) and there’s nothing you can do about it. If it’s darker, then you can remove it by poulticing it with the right chemical. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive Professional kits (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from stains Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6660: is natural onyx for shower stall wall a bad idea? i've seen it at a showroom, but am concerned about the cleaning nightmare that might ensue afterwards. any thoughts? thank you, April 29, Reply

R1: Dear Lucca:Everything looks beautiful in the showroom!! I consider onyx in a shower possible, but kinda borderline. If you’re ready for continuous care (not too difficult, I assure you) and can make sure that’s installed properly, then you may consider it. To understand exactly what I am talking about, you would get my maintenance guidelines (there are useful tips on installation, too!). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6659: I just had granite counter tops installed and the stone has allot of dull spots on it . I mean allot! I know that granite is not perfect and its going to have imperfections, but this looks really bad. Is there any products or procedures to fix this? The stone looks like it needs to be polished again, or something like that.Please Help, Staley, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Staley: Without any additional information I can’t answer your question. What kind of “granite” do you have? Had an impregnator/sealer been applied or not to your top? How exactly those dull spots look like? Did you have them right away, or did they started developing afterwards and become increasingly numerous? Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6658: I'm moving to Alabama and am looking at a beautiful house that has "Egyptian saw cut limestone" and "saw cut travertine" throughout the first floor. The house is 8 yrs old and the floors look to be in good shape. They have sort of a dull sheen. The kitchen has limestone and most of the first floor has limestone and the dining room and baths have the travertine. I'm worried that this will be a maintenance nightmare. I've had problems with a very small marble floor in one of my current bathrooms (water stains from condensation on toilet). We are an active couple with one son who is 16 months old. I don't want to spend a great deal of time on the floors. Should we even consider a house with these floors. I need to make a decision right away. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.Steve, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Steve: If the house is 8 years old and the stone floors are in good shape, doesn’t it tell you something about how care-free that kind of setup is going to be for you? Your previous experience with polished marble has nothing to do with saw-cut finished stone. Just seal those floors with a good-quality stone impregnator (like my outlandish MB-4) and use some of my amazing MB-1 for routine cleaning, and … enjoy!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6657: I have installed blue fossil limestone in 55 sq meters on top of underfloor heating. The adhesive has made the tiles wet and they are drying very slowly. I cannot grout/seal until they dry. I have in-laws coming from Italy in 7 days. What should I do? Rgds, Keith, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Keith: The best thing you can do for your relatives visiting from Italy is to have a batch of lasagna ready for them!! :-) About the grouting of your fossil limestone … well, if you will serve some serious red wine with the lasagna, your relative won’t even notice that the grout is missing!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6656: I have a granite countertop that is two years old in my kitchen. I'm told it is sealed by the retailer. It is something called Caledonia. I went out of town for a few weeks and in the time I was gone, a bottle of liquid soap went awry and leaked onto the counter. There is a dark spot that I thought would come out or dry up, but has not. Suggestions? Thanks, David, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear David: There’s no impregnator/sdealer under the sun that could prevent a stain like that form happening. You’re going to have to poultice the soap out. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6655: I would like to know how to everyday clean travertine that does not have shine. We sealed it in it's natural state. I heard vinagar and water, but I just want to make sure. April 27, Reply

Q 6654: I have read all of the negative comments made by Maurizio and others about honed black granite and can't bring myself to going that route -- even though I think black matte counters would fit perfectly with the look of my 1910 home (which, by the way, has a Maine slate sink in the pantry). Based on your comments, soapstone and slate are problematic because they scratch so easily (and that doesn't appeal to me). I know you prefer natural stone to engineered stone, but I saw a picture of fireslate which looks nice (though it lacks the beautiful veins that honed granite has). I'm stumped -- and am thinking of using mahagony countertops instead of stone (though there is probably a website out there that will tell me all the problems with wood....) Can you advise me, Elizabeth, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Elisabeth: My answer to all of your questions can be summarized in one short sentence: “You said it all yourself!” The following is the reproduction of the reply that I once gave to a previous inquirer about honed black granite. Dear Inquirer: There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite is that it is not ... well, black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns grey, but when you wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean those stains off, while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the grey! If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop (such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator sealer). Any other questions? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6653: I just had granite counter tops installed and the stone has allot of dull spots on it . I mean allot! I know that granite is not perfect and its going to have imperfections, but this looks really bad. Is there any products or procedures to fix this? The stone looks like it needs to be polished again, or something like that. April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Staley: Without any additional information I can’t answer your question. What kind of “granite” do you have? Had an impregnator/sealer been applied or not to your top? How exactly those dull spots look like? Did you have them right away, or did they started developing afterwards and become increasingly numerous? You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6652: I am requesting your “thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations”. We have a house full of travertine, marble, and granite. Thank you very much!! Sue Bell, April 27, Reply

R1: As you will be able to see by logging in the Educational Literature, our Guidelines for the Maintenance of Residential Stone Installationscarries a $12.00 price tag. Since we’re currently running a special promotion on our literature, here attached for your convenience find that all too important document at no charge, along with our fax-order form. There’s no obligation, of course, but should you decide to give our fine products a try it out, fax it over, and the goods are in their way at your doorsteps! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6651: We moved into a new building where they used sandstone (Pietra Serena) as the choice for the countertops. Bad choice. The developer is trying all it can not to replace them. Another bad decision. Their latest solution to prevent staining/etching is to clean them and use a stone sealant called HMK S35. Although I don't believe there is truly a solution to the problems this kind of stone presents, I was wondering if any one out there knows what HMK S35 is and what to expect in the near and long term from the application. Thanks for your input, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear John: Back in 1991 we ran a comparative test between our own impregnator/sealer and several others available on the market at that time. The one you mentioned was among them and turned out to be a poor performer, despite the big hype about the company making it. Perhaps they have changed formula since. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6650: Can you please tell me what granite would look most like a white carrerra marble. I had my heart set on marble countertops but keep getting the idea shot down by the contractors as they feel that they will stain too much. Thanks. Jo, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Jo: Try to take a look at Bianco Romano. However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either doctored (which is bad), or resined (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some Michelangelo ?! I did write a very comprehensive article on How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6649: My contractor installed my travertine floors without sealing first. The grout doesn't want to totally come off the floor, leaving a haze in some places and a buildup in others (mainly around edges). What can be done? April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Dawn: To give you an intelligent answer I need additional information, namely: is your travertine polished or hone-finished? You’re in direct contact with me now, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6648: I have just had my kitchen remodeled with Madura Gold granite countertops. The plumber made an error and used an oil based putty inside the hole around the sprayer hose. I now have a stain all around the sprayer. It is very noticeable. We removed the sprayer and the stain is soaked into the granite about 1/4" deep. Do I use the acetone and paper towel poultice that was described in one of the answers above. Thank you so much for any advice.Sincerely, Maryann, April 27, Reply

R1: Dear Maryann: You’re better off using Methylene Chloride. Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about proper maintenance procedure to protect your investment. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6647: I am considering buying a Nero Zimbabwe Granite kitchen countertop with an 'Antique' finish - ie, it is matt, not polished. Obviously this will not show every fingermark as the polished version does, but will it be particularly susceptible to limescale marks from hard water, or any other marks for that matter, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Patrick and Bernadine: Your assessment is not quite accurate. Fingermark will be much more visible than if the surface was polished. The following is the answer to a previous question on this particular subject.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6646: I'm moving to Alabama and am looking at a beautiful house that has "Egyptian saw cut limestone" and "saw cut travertine" throughout the first floor. The house is 8 yrs old and the floors look to be in good shape. They have sort of a dull sheen. The kitchen has limestone and most of the first floor has limestone and the dining room and baths have the travertine. I'm worried that this will be a maintenance nightmare. I've had problems with a very small marble floor in one of my current bathrooms (water stains from condensation on toilet). We are an active couple with one son who is 16 months old. I don't want to spend a great deal of time on the floors. Should we even consider a house with these floors. I need to make a decision right away. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Steve, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Steve: If the house is 8 years old and the stone floors are in good shape, doesn’t it tell you something about how care-free that kind of setup is going to be for you? Your previous experience with polished marble has nothing to do with saw-cut finished stone. Just seal those floors with a good-quality stone impregnator (like my outlandish MB-4) and use some of my amazing MB-1 for routine cleaning, and … enjoy!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6645: I have installed blue fossil limestone in 55 sq meters on top of underfloor heating. The adhesive has made the tiles wet and they are drying very slowly. I cannot grout/seal until they dry. I have in-laws coming from Italy in 7 days. What should I do? Rgds, Keith, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Keith: The best thing you can do for your relatives visiting from Italy is to have a batch of lasagna ready for them!! :-) About the grouting of your fossil limestone … well, if you will serve some serious red wine with the lasagna, your relative won’t even notice that the grout is missing!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6644: I have a granite countertop that is two years old in my kitchen. I'm told it is sealed by the retailer. It is something called Caledonia. I went out of town for a few weeks and in the time I was gone, a bottle of liquid soap went awry and leaked onto the counter. There is a dark spot that I thought would come out or dry up, but has not. Suggestions? Thanks, David Hudson, New Orleans, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear David: There’s no impregnator/sdealer under the sun that could prevent a stain like that form happening. You’re going to have to poultice the soap out. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6643: I have been reading your site for a few weeks as I'm in the process of remodeling my kitchen, new 'granite' countertops included. I have already put a deposit on my Vyara Gold and have obtained a piece for the lemon test. The stone is fairly absorbent, so I would like to seal with your MB-4. Here are my questions: 1) I will have approximately 85-90 square feet of countertop to seal. How
much MB-4 will I need to cover this area three times? I know this is a speculative question as who knows how much the stone will actually absorb, but can you give me a ballpark estimate? Will I need 1 quart or 5? 2) Which of the other products would you recommend for cleaning? I'm assuming the MB-5 would be a good choice, but what is the difference between that and MB-15? Just the "disinfectant" part? And what exactly is the disinfectant? An antibacterial agent? April 20,
Reply

R1: Two quarts to be sure. Yes, MB-15 is a powerful antibacterial and as such should not be used liberally or on a daily basis. It’s just as powerful as Lysol (which, too, should be used sparingly) and tested safe on natural stone.

Q 6642: We are considering installing either Juperana Columbo or Juperana Fantastico as kitchen counters. Another option is Vyara. (As you can see, we like the look of “movement”). Any comment on absorption or other problems these stones may have? Would you recommend one over the other? We have two vendors. One wants to impregnate the stone, the other wants to put a sealer on top. Opinions? Does this stone need a sealer? I live in Virginia, where we have average humidity, if it matters. Thank you, Betsy Keogan, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Betsy: There’s no such a thing like a sealer for stone that goes on top. That said, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6641: I recently bought a house which was built about 1965. It has a bathroom with the most unique curving marble sink top. The top is 48" long, and appears to be marble, although it could possibly be something fake. It is white with black streaking that appears to go all of the way through. Problem is, on the right-hand half of it, the streaks are worn off, or covered over with soap or something. How do I determine if it is truly marble? Can I do anything to get the streaking back (or visible) on the right-hand side? If not, what would bond to it to cover the top in a different color? Can it be "dyed" evenly? Possibly glazed with a modern looking finish? ANY ideas would be welcomed so that I won't have to part with it in order to modernize an outdated bathroom which will be coral rose, white, and golds in color. Thanks, Joyce, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Joyce: Only a stone restoration professional could answer your questions by actually seeing your sink.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6640: I had a friend over and she used vinigar and I now have big round white spots on my bathroom coutnertop, can this be remedied and how? I f indeed professional care is needed please advise i live in westchester ny.....thank you sue, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Sue: You can try our Marble Repair Kit. If the etching caused by the vinegar is not too severe, depending on the marble, it could work just fine. If not, you will need the services of a proven stone restoration contractor. But the kit is still a nice thing to have around when one has marble in his home! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6639: Wondering if you could help me. I noticed today that my brand new marble top (Rosa Zarci) bathroom counters has cloudy blotches over certain areas. Until last week, it still shined like new. I’ve come to realize that my cleaning lady has been using a spray bottle of water and vinegar mixture to clean my countertops for the last 8 months. Although I’ve noticed a decline in the shine over the last few months, I thought it was from normal wear. However, this bathroom is the main-floor powder room that is rarely used. It looks like she may have left her damp cleaning cloth on the countertop for a while or did not wipe it completely dry in some areas. So now portions of the countertop look like new and the remainder has looks cloudy and dirty. Is there any way I save it very rich look marble? I’ve tried the baking soda diluted in water, but it did not work. I also noticed my hardwood floors are looking dull. Guess what she has been using on my new hardwood floors (not the pre-finished kind)? April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Maria: Your cleaning lady destroyed the finish of your marble countertop. Vinegar is an acid and – like any other acid – will damage marble by etching it on contact. Besides, vinegar is not a cleaner and it only belongs in the salad bowl! Considering the extensiveness of the damage, you will need to hire a stone restoration contractor to refinish your countertop., Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6638: we have a newly installed "salt & pepper" granite slab flooring made in china in our living room. the installation was ok but when the installers applied "johnson & johnson's" colorless wax, it shined all right but it leaves a blurry effect after it was polished. what should we do, what should we apply? April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Ruby: You’ve gotta be kidding me!! The installer actually applied Johnson wax on your floor???!! WOW!!! Have him come back and strip the stupid thing off. After that, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6637: I just had a counter installed yesterday Colombo gold, the installer sealed it and mention spots going away but I didn't see any and wasn't sure what he meant or I didn't pay much attention because I didn't see any spots at the time but later that day I started seeing spots, and notice about 12 big darker spots and they have faded a little by morning but still noticeable is this common and will they go away I will call the installer but also wanted to get another opinion. Thanks Mary, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Mary: The way you’re reporting the whole thing to me, I have no idea what you’re talking about!! :-)You’re in direct contact with me now. Get the installer back, ask him all the questions you may have, and then report back to me for a second opinion. I’ll be glad to help.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6636: What shall I clean my countertop with and how should it be supported under the 12" overhang (3/4") Donna Lewis, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Donna: Yes, very definitely, a 12” overhang MUST be supported My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6635:In addition to my last question on native stone, we also just installed Crema Marfil (sp) on the bathroom floor. Our contractor said that it must be sealed, but from reading some of the Q&A on your website I am questioning this. Does Crema Marfil need to be sealed or is it like other marbles and not need sealing? Thank you so much for your help. Marie, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Marie: Are you going to spill coffee and cooking oil in your bathroom floor and let them sit there for half an hour or so? If not, why does you contractor say that you need to seal it? For what? And what would happen if you don’t seal it? Besides, Crema Marfil does not need to be sealed. Learn how to take good care of your stone. That’s more important that any sealing and you’re not going to get the right information from somebody who tells you to seal Crema Marfil in a bathroom floor! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6634: I am finding little fine, crooked cracks and a few pits in the Blue Pearl granite counter top I had installed. Is this normal? Does this make it more porous? Is this really Granite? Does this type Granite need to be sealed? What substances are used for sealing and how often should it be applied? What is the composition of Blue Pearl? Thank you for any suggestions or help you might render me.A grandmother, 80 years old and still learning! April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Helen: I’m partial to grandmothers: I’m married to one!! :-) Regular Blue Pearl is a Syenite from the village of Larvik in Norway. Blue Pearl GT (the darker one) is an Anorthosite coming from a region of (still) Norway, but farther North. Regular Blue Pearl may or may not need to be sealed. Blue Pearl GT does not need to be sealed. If you have a regular Blue Pearl and it turns out that it needs to be sealed (spill some water on your counter, let it sit there for several minutes, wipe it dry and then watch if the area under which the water was sitting has become darker. If yes, then you will seal it), then if you use my MB-4 you will need to seal it again when you hit 90! For daily maintenance I advise you to use my MB-5 and, occasionally MB-13. I wouldn’t worry about the little pits and fissures in the stone. They are typical of that particular granite. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6633: After reading through some of the Findstone site, I get the impression that black "granites" are generally low-absorption and should not be sealed. Can someone please confirm or deny this admittedly blanket statement? Second, what degree of confidence can one (i.e. I) have in the granite countertops sold at places like Home Depot or Expo Design? I note that they are not guaranteed and that the installation contract specifies that sealant will be used. This makes me deeply uneasy, given what I've seen you this site thus far. April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Su: The idea not to seal black granite is not a blanket statement. The idea of sealing every granite is a blanket statement and, therefore, it can’t work and, in fact, it does not work. Go with be Big Boxes, listen to what they tell you, give them your money, buy their maintenance products and, please, don’t ask me any questions. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6632: We would also like to sell, compare and perhaps trade stones. We would like to have information from proffessional stone masons and builders. We would like to gain insight on how to test our stone for hardness, workability, color, ETC... Consumers commercial & private buyers, machines, tools and all other information pertaining to limestone quarry owners will be gratefully recieved. April 20, Reply

Q 6631: Dear Experts, I have seen on this forum by Maurizio that 98% percent of the stones I see at the stone shops are not really granite...What are they? Also I love the look of limestone/marble and have searched for granite that I can live with..Any suggestions on what colors to go for, I will be using natural maple cabinets and I do not want black or anything excessively dark, my counter space is approx 120 sq feet, Thanks, Renee, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Renee: You don’t expect me to give you complete list of all the possible stones that – no matter what they are – are traded as granite, right? Suffice it to know that most commercial granites are good candidates for a kitchen countertop, but a few are not. That said, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6630: I would love to get some info on granite car. I just got granite countertops in my kitchen and as you seem to know, got no information from my seller/installer. I have some spots now that I am afraid I can't get out, don't know what they are from, maybe just water. i bought a sealer from homedepot but is has very lousy instructions and i don't want to screw anything up.I don't even know if my granite was sealed already or not since they told me nothing. thanks Paison, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Lisa: “Water stains?” Hmmm… I really don’t like that. You won’t be solving your problem by applying an impregnator/sealer to it, I can promise you that!! What kind of granite do you have? You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist

Q 6629: I am trying to fill drilled holes into marble. There are about 100 or more holes all in different sizes from ¼ in and smaller. The color is a light almost white color. How can I repair these holes? Any kits available? Any suggestions would be helpful.Greg, April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Greg: The best way to go is to use matching epoxy compound. However, the application of the filler must be followed by the re-grinding of the stone surface, honing and polishing. You need a professional stone refinisher to do all that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6628: I have searched your site but am not able to find anything about lemon oil and granite. We are considering a Tropical Brown granite slab. The person who sells and installs them says all it will need is lemon oil rubbed onto it once in a while. Is this correct? Is Tropical Brown a good choice? April 20, Reply

R1: Dear Rhonda: Lemon oil to treat “granite” once in a while, huh!! … The first thing you do is tell your fabricator wannabe that it was very nice meeting them, and then you leave that place as quick as you can without ever looking back!! J About your choice of Tropic Brown, it’s usually a good choice, but I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: yes it can be done, we can create a cup holder size whole in a slate of 31/2 inch stone.if u want any more inf ask me, i will ans u

Q 6627: I have a emerald pearl granite dining table. it is only 3 years old, but it appears dull in color. what would you recommend to add luster. your prompt reply is appreciated. April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Nicole: There’s no other reason I can think of than the possibility that you’ve been using something wrong to clean your dining table top over the years. (Water and dish soap, perhaps?) I would suggest you to perform a heavy duty cleaning using my MB-3, followed by MB-5 as routine cleaner and, occasionally, MB-13 as a nice “dressing!” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: During the fabrication process both the peices have to change the colour if one is dark and the other is light then the slabs are from 2 different blocks there is no point in wating . I advice to change the slab.GOLDEN

R3: I THINK YOUR FABRICATOR IS BUYING TIME FOR YOUR CHECK CLEAR! ALL NATURAL STONES ARE POROUS. SOME MORE SO THAN OTHERS.
GRANITE WILL HOLD MOISTURE THRU THE FABRICATION PROCESS, HOWEVER THE MATERIAL USUALLY DRIES OUT BY THE TIME IT'S DELIVERED TO THE PLACE OF INSTALLATION.BOTTOM LINE, IF WHAT THE INSTALLER SAYS IS TRUE, THEN TAKE A DAMP SPONGE AND WET DOWN THE LIGHTER SIDE. I'M SURE YOU'LL FIND THAT STONES ARE STILL DIFFERENT. SOUNDS LIKE 2 DIFFERENT LOTS WERE USED...................

R4: I am not long in this industry but I can think of two things. He did not use a big slab to cut your kitchen; this would be the result of the problem. The way he cut the kitchen wasn’t the right way. Elaborating my first point, in America people bring in prefabricated material and they come from different blocks and that will never match with the other piece of granite which they have. I can understand or explain more if you could email me a photograph and fax me a drawing of the kitchen. Thanks, Husein

R5: Not at all... I think the problem in your case is that the granite used has been resined (a practice done on 80% of the granite nowadays). The resin has the tendency to darken up the color of the granite, but it also strenghten it up and give you a more uniform surface.
In the seam , if it was beveled , most likely the resin is not present, thus leaving you with a clearer color. There are just a handful of product on the market that can fix this . they are color enhancer sealer and will uniform the color to a darker shade Just make sure that no water has been dropped on the countertop for at leaset 2-3 days and your granite should be most likely dry. Filippo

R6: I strongly suspect you where sold good material that came from different location in the Quarry and or Block, since Granite is a natural Product, there will be variation in some Stone and colors.
It does not take month for the moisture to escape, it may take hours or a few days, depending on the stone. If the Counter top was produced from the Same Slab of Granite, it should have been matched at the Plant. As a sheet of ¾” Granite it is possible that a slab breaks and one piece was cut from another sheet, that is basically the same Material and color, but has that slight variation.
The second sheet could have been cut from anther Block of Granite, from the same quarry, but a different location. The possibilities are several. There is and ASTM standard for stone that determines the moister/absorption rate and %, which is very low. I have been a Quarry Master for 20+ years and seen different colors and absorption in Granite; generally after it gets wet it will dry in a matter of days or Hours, depending on temperature. Granite is not a Sponge. Minnesota has some of the biggest Quarries and Producers of Blocks for Monument and Construction. Surely you have considered this Avenue for Information.Hope this is of help, Curd, Carlton GA

Q 6626: I am an individual in the island of Grand Cayman, north of Jamaica. I am in the planning stages and trying to estimate cost of materials. At the moment, I am most enthusiastic about the stone from Iran and sandstone from India. I would also appreciate info. re. tumbled marble. Also type of stone advised for kitchen counters (would prefer to use something other than granite) and kitchen sink. Also, could sandstone be used for a kitchen floor, if sealed? (I failed to make clear that I would only be ordering sufficient travertine, etc. for a few rooms and a paved courtyard, in the home I am designing.) I am having trouble with quotes, a "ballpark" figure re. Iranian Travertine and marble would be appreciated - sq. ft., sq. yard. Also Indian Sandstone - Fossil and Agra Red.
My question also really pertains to the matter of reliability: the quality of stone sold by a given vendor, fairness of price re. quality, reliability re. the financial transaction, and the matter of quality control. In such circumstances, how do I, as an individual with no experience or knowledge, proceed? I would be most grateful for your help and will then follow up with a list of those stones which interest me. (Though the house will be built here, it matters not so much where the vendor is located as I will be importing architectural elements from Morocco, Tunisia and Spain. Being close to the U.S. might also be helpful. All goods to the island are shipped from Miami, so that would not be a costly exercise.)

Specifically, since I, myself, have no expertise in these matters, how can I validate the quality of samples which are sent to me and judge whether or not the price given is a fair one and appropriate, given the quality? This may seem foolish, but it may well be necessary at the end of the day to have everything handled for me by those already in the business here but it would be important and interesting, first of all, to see how different will be the price quoted to me by suppliers abroad. April 19, Reply

R1: I think you will have difficulty getting quotes until you can define exactly what you want. A sourcer is going to need specifications on the cuts you will need along with the type of stone. You will also have difficulty sourcing from multiple countries. I source out of Brazil and can probably supply what you are looking for, but would not attempt to do so without having good specifications. As far as countertops other than granite, you can use marble or travertine. I would suggest, however, that there are a huge variety of granites. If you are looking for a unique, beautiful look, then maybe you should look at some of the available colors and patterns in granite. Brazil has over 800 distinct colors and patterns in granite. Jonathan

R2: yes i read ur question, & i know many stones in india which is used for kitchen tops & all, which r not expensive also, & verry good quality also, & shining also for long years,if u want to discuss with me then u may talk to me directly

Q 6625: I love natural stone, I'm a real rock lover. We've had two thousand square feet of marble (hulien and another dk. green) around for years waiting to be installed. Changed houses. Now I am wanting to put it into a formal living rm/library, and/or dining room and entry way. I'm just losing my nerve, with everyone's comments. "Its not "in""!! etc. they say.
Since the application is so final, and involved - (epoxying/gluing it down) everyone is discouraging me and I'm afraid of the look I'll get now. The walls have a venetian painted finish, green, that is beautiful, the crown moldings are cherry, stained
dark, and the fireplace will have a mahogany carved mantel.
Do you think its a good idea? Also, is it a good overall design idea to do only one room that way? (dk green marble) when the rest of the floors are wood--? I know these questions are subjective but I'd like to hear from you - I've read a lot of your advice and answers on the site.
I also I want it put down with a "butt/up application" very close together - or with 1/32" spacers...what are your expert opinions? Thank you so much. Terri, April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Terry, Green is not a bad idea. But please note that unless you have some other color is contrast, it will really not be "in". I will rather suggest use some Italian red marbles as criscross for layment. I think cherry and mehagony will be intimate with the floor. Make sure in your living room, put some article made of shining blue glass or baked earth items, like those from Japan or India.Use not massive but bigger items will dull faceout in contrast. Can you send me a sketch of your living or dining room? I hope I can help you more? For butt application, I don't know much, hence suggest you to contact the local technical people. Best of luck, Pranab

R2: I think the reason it is not “in” is that is generally much more expensive. I personally think it could be very beautiful and unique. My only question would be how are your hardwood floors? Hardwood floors can be just as beautiful. I would hate to think of covering a beautiful hardwood floor. As far as your fireplace, if you have not done so already, placing a mahogany carved mantel, I would encourage you to choose a different wood. Mahogany is endangered in much of the world. It is illegal to import into the US from many countries. If you are interested in marble or granite for your fireplace, I have contacts in Brazil that can custom build them. Jonathan Folland

R3: Its a good idea to put it, it will look nice, but if u make good designs then it will look more better, if u match white small thin marble one inch or 1 1/2 inch marble pieces with it, it will look more decent, if u want more inf talk to me directly

Q 6624: Can anyone reccommend a tool or technique to carve a 3 1/2 inch circle only about an eigth of an inch deep in slate? Lynn, April 19, Reply

Q 6623: I am having "Tropical Brown" granite counter tops installed. There is a crack that goes through the granite where the granite has been cut. The crack can be felt and seen on the surface. Is this a "fissure" or a "crack" caused when the granite was cut? Is is repairable? Seth, April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Seth: Usually (which does NOT mean all the time) Tropical Brown does not have fissures. Usually again (which, again, does NOT mean all the time) a fissure can’t be felt. That said, how can you possibly expect me (or anybody else for that matter) to tell you if what you have is a natural fissure or a crack without actually seeing it? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6622: Can a red travertine be sealed? We recently purchased a red travertine countertop from a granite company and no one seems to know if it should be sealed or how to care for it. We have no idea if the finish is polished or honed (how could I tell?) and there are slight pits or areas where water will get trapped. If it can be sealed, will those area (shallow pits) fill in? Is one sealer better than another? Thanks for any help you can give as we are waiting to put in our sinks until we figure out how to handle this process. Mary, April 19, Reply

R1: What do you mean you can’t even tell if your travertine is polished or hone-finished?? Can’t you tell if it’s shiny or dull?? Isn’t the fabricator able to tell you?? Let me know. Without that information I can’t tell you anything intelligent. You’re in direct contact with me now (just hit the reply button in your e-mail system).Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6622: I AM INSTALLING A KITCHEN AND AM VERY CONCERN ABOUT THE EVENTUAL PROBLEMS OF GRANITE AS A COUNTER. SPECIFICALLY THE EVENTUAL WEAR AND TEAR FROM THE PROLONGED MECHANICAL MINI FRICTION OF ITEMS ON THE COUNTER AS WELL AS SPILLS OF ACID SUBSTANCES EVENTUALLY PENETRATING THE "SEAL" WHICH IN AMERICA CONSISTS OF SILICONES WHICH ARE STRUCTURALLY WEAK.WE ARE CONSIDERING SILESTONE AND PREFER TO USE IT BUT ARE TOLD THAT IT IS A "NEW" PRODUCT AND NOT PROVEN. HOWEVER I THINK THAT CONSIDERING IT IS MADE WITH QUARZ AND EPOXY, THE WEARABILITY LOOKS FREER OF HEADACHES OF MAINTENANCE. THANKS, CARLOS, April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Carlos: I don’t think that my dear personal friend Norman will say anything different. No matter how hard engineered stone can be it will never be as hard as most commercial granites. That takes care of the “eventual wear and tear from prolonged mechanical friction.” Second, to the best of my knowledge there’s only one company left in all of the USA that still makes silicon-based impregnator/sealers. All the rest have switched to fluorocarbon compounds (my MB-4 – which comes with a 10 year warranty – is based on fluorocarbon alphatic resin). And that takes care of your comment on the penetrating sealers available in America. And finally, yes, engineered stone is relatively new, it is not as hard as most commercial granites, under certain conditions it still could stain and … it does look like manmade! The real advantage that you have with engineered stone is that their fabricators have to go through a training and certification program, while when it comes to natural stone every overnight “Michelangelo” can hang a shingle out of their door with “Marble & Granite” written on it. But there are good stone fabricators out there, too. The trick is to be able to tell the men from the boys! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature , Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6621: my husband is very good at home improvement and has installed alot of tile, and some travertine just never on the floor (counter top and fireplace) what can you tell us about how to get the best professional looking travertine installation, we are installing 1600 sq ft. of travertine and we want it to look like we paid a fortune to have it installed, one of the reasons we are not having it installed is because we are not sure how well the installers will do, April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Michele: 1600 square feet, huh … My first reaction would be to encourage you to hire a proven professional; but then again, you’ve got a point with your closing comment! There are lots of “Michelangelos” on the loose out there!! I you wish, you could log on the “Educational Literature” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6620: I finally had my hallway done in granite, black galaxy. Does this tile need to be sealed. I ran a mop over it and it left some film on it. What can I do to get rid of the film? April 19, Reply

R1: Dear Shirley: It’s very possible that you have some sort of residue from the factory sitting on your tiles. I suggest you to remove it by applying a solution of water and MB-3 using a little scrubbing machine (or you can have it professionally done). Rinse thoroughly at least twice with plenty of water and then take it from there with our MB-1 and the right mop. You do NOT want to seal Black Galaxy with an impregnator! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6619: We recently had black granite countertops install in our newly constructed home. For the most part, the granite is fine and easy to care for. However, around the sink area and specifically by the faucets, it appears that calcium type deposits are forming and clouding the granite. Is there any sort of cleaner that can be used to cut through these clouding deposits? April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Peter: That is typical of many installations, especially when one doesn’t use the proper cleaners for routine maintenance (are you perhaps using water and dish soap?). I have a product, namely MB-3 that will do that for you (unless your fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to your stone, in which case the problem could be a horse of a different color). I would also encourage you to consider using my MB-5 for routine cleaning and MB-13 (a very thin coat once a week or so) for extra-protection and beauty!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit

Q 6618: We have a marble tile entry way and 1 tile has cracked in several places I had it replaced once and it just cracked again. I think it is just shoddy installation (not creating a flat enough bed for the tile) but instead of having it replaced once again I thought we could just fill the cracks with some kind of marble filler. I have seen cracks in other tiles filled with something but I cannot find this product. What is this product called and where can I get it? April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Jodie: If you don’t address the problem – which is the cause of the cracking - even if you fix the crack the repair won’t last. That was for starters. To successfully fix a crack, you need A) to widen it with a special thin blades on a high-speed rotary tool; B) to fill it with color-matching epoxy compound (very hard to get and very nasty to use); C) once cured, you have to grind the filler flush with the tile, re-hone the whole area and re-polish the whole tile. All that is way beyond to ability of the handiest homeowner. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6617: I am looking at Verde Butterfly for my kitchen countertops. I read somewhere that it is prone to cracking when used with an undermount sink on a standard 24-25" cabinet. Do you have any information on this? Thanks, April 15, Reply

R1: I’m kind a scared answering to your question … being that you work in a large legal firm and all, I could be held liable if I tell you something wrong!!! :-)
Verde Butterfly is not any more prone to cracking than any other stone of its kind (charnockite), which is well within normal limits of acceptance. The possible chipping by the skink hole can be minimized by giving the upper edge of the hole a radius, rather than a 90 degree angle. Bottom line, it’s all the hands of the fabricator. You get a good one, you’re going to be a happy camper; you get some “Michelangelo” … you fill the blanks.I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6616: I have had granite installed as kitchen counters. Poor salesmanship left me with poor knowledge about care. My stone has darkened over the last 2 years. It was one of the lighter stones and has darkened and yellowed over this time..Anyway to get back to the orginal color? Thanks. Teri, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Teri: If the darkening is due to extensive staining (is it blotchy or uniform?) then some extensive poulticing could remove the stains. If the darkening and yellowing is kind of uniform all throughout, then it could be due the application (by the factory) of a poor quality resin that reacted to the UV rays. In such case, there’s no remedy. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6616: To seal or not to seal, that is the question. My floor is tumbled tavertine over a stab. I live near the beach and the water table is high. I am concerned that if I put an impregnator on the stone, My kids and I will end up walking on and inhalling toxins from the sealant. Especially as the sealant starts to wear away over time. What do you think? Shirley, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Shirley: The toxin issue is immaterial. Once the impregnator has cured, the resin is totally inert. Most importantly, an impregnator/sealer is a below surface sealant, and none of it will be sitting on the stone surface. That said, in consideration of the high level of your water table, I wouldn’t seal it. Travertine is quite dense to start with; therefore the less you “suffocate” it the better! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6615: We are thinking of using honed jerusalem marble for our masterbath countertop. Is there any reason we should not consider this option? How does the jerusalem honed marble compare with shiny granite? April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Michelle: The comparison is impossible: the characteristics of the stones you want to compare are two different from each other. Granite is much more practical, of course. Among the limestone, Jerusalem is one of the densest. It's still a limestone, though ...Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6614: I have put 16 x 16 tiles of fossiled Jerusalem limestone on my master bath, dressing closet and master bedroom. It has a dull sheen. It is a little softer than I was lead to believe and has a few scratches after 3 years. Should I seal it or what? April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Don: A sealer for stone (a.k.a. impregnator) is a below-surface product and gives the surface of the stone no protection whatsoever. It won’t do the first thing to protect your stone from scratching. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6613: We have just refurbished our bathroom and added a beautiful marble window sill. While we were tiling the walls, we did our best to keep it covered up, but at some point a hot tea cup must have been placed on the window sill and it has left a prominent circle.I have tried everything I can think of to remove it, I have washed it, used an oil based product called WD 40 on it, I have tried another product called 'Cif' which is a cream based scourer, but nothing has shifted it, surely there must be something! I know that marble topped tables are made, so there must be something to remove these infuriating rings!! We purchased the marble slab from a fireplace company, if there are different kinds of marble, then I cannot say which type this is. I hope you can help, it is spoiling the look of my completely new bathroom! I thank you in anticipation of your reply, Margaret, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Margaret: Hoping that you didn’t damage your marble surface too badly with “CIF”, there’s an easy solution! I have a product, namely MB-11 that will take care of your “water ring.” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6613: I have a friend who recently installed honed White Carrera marble on her kitchen countertop. The marble was sealed with Vic Int'l Stone Impregnator Sealer by the installers. She noticed a dark stain the shape of a pan and thought it might be grease from the bottom of a pan. She mixed baking soda with vinegar to make a paste and covered the spot with it then covered the paste with plastic wrap overnight. (She heard this was a remedy.) She now has a dark stain the shape of the plastic wrap. What can she do to remove this stain and to prevent future stains? Thanks so much! Marisa, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Marisa: Your first course of action is to go back to your fabricator, and, if they don’t know what to do, get hold of the customer service department of VIC industrial. I’m sure they will sell you something else that “will do the trick.” That’s what they’re very good at! (Selling that is.) It that won’t work, you could log in the Educational Literature You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6612: What is the best cleaner to use on Absolute Black granite counter tops? I have been using Windex to clean my absolute granite counter tops since installation six months ago. It seems as though the counter tops are looking slightly dull. Is this a result from the use of Windex? How can I cure my dull counter tops? You advice would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Nancy, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Nancy: The cleaner you’ve been using is not appropriate for a granite countertop. Its cleaning ability is not enough. You probably have an accumulation of soil (grease, food, etc.) that the glass cleaner was not able to cut. I would suggest the you deep clean your countertop with a chelate-type cleaner, like my MB-3. After that, for routine cleaning I would suggest our unrivaled MB-5, aided – on a once a week basis – with a very thin coat of MB-13. Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)You’re in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6611: I purchased a model home which has filled travertine tile in the entire bathroom. Some of the shower floor tiles have lost their filling and the holes are quite deep. I have no idea whether the installer sealed the back of the tiles before installing; am I in trouble here? With what can I fill the holes? A tile restorer came out recently and filled some holes that had been there originally, and used "traverfill". I hate to pay for a service call for three little holes...what do I do now? Also, how do I clean/maintain this shower? I live in Texas where humidity is high. Thanks, Linda, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: No need to call a pro. Get some almond colored caulking material and fill your holes with that using a putty knife to push it in and a razor blade to “shave” it flush with the stone surface. Let it cure 24 hours before using the shower again.Now that we have solved the problem of your holes, what do you want to know about the proper care of all that beautiful stone? My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6610: Please can you advise how to manufacture a FLOOR POLISH all ingrdients please, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Tonderai: Yes Sir, no problem! All you have to tell me now is what do you mean for floor polish: a topical finish (wax, etc.) or a polishing powder for marble and/or granite? Let me know and I’ll send you the formula right away. Well … not quite right away. We will have to settle the little matter of how much you’re willing to pay for it! But, hey, it’s only money! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6609: We recently moved into a new home with slate flooring in the kitchen and one bathroom. The floor is terribly dirty and our cleaning ladies told us that it is not sealed and needs to be done soon or the slate will begin to show water/grease spots. Do we need to seal the floor? If so, how do we do it and what are the best products to use? April 15, Reply

R1: Dear: Not really. Sealing your slate wouldn’t do much. What you have to do is go to a rental place and get a jack-hammer with which rip out the whole stupid thing. Of course, you’re going to meet some salesman who gonna tell you what a terrific sealer they have and all that (sealer is a magic word, ain’t it?!). But that’s all you’re gonna get: a story and a song. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6610: We have a hairline crack in our black galaxy countertop. Also at a splice location, the substance that was originally placed to fill the void of the splice is disappearing. What can be used to repair the granite at these two locations. Thanks, Bert, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Bert: For the seam, you can remove whatever is left of the original filler and apply black caulking material. For the hairline crack, only a proven stone restoration professional hoping that you can find one could fix that. My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6609: Is that true that Black Galaxy Stone causes internal headache? Nick S. April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Nick: It’s absolutely true. Actually the phenomenon must be extended to the external headache as well. In fact, I do have a Black Galaxy kitchen countertop in my own house for over 8 years now, and I have a loose smaller piece that we use as a pot holder and such. Now, every time I have an argument with my wife she bangs that thing on my head, and I can tell you first-hand experience, that it causes me terrible headache inside and out and big bumps, too!! I already decided that my next kitchen countertop will be made out of Styrofoam!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6608: Weve had black galaxy granite countertops installed for the last 6 months. Although they looked beautiful initially, I soon stained them with lemon juice/olives. The stonemason came over and I showed him the stains. He whipped out a piece of equipment, and before I knew it, he had tried to “ polish” the stains out, with a kind of small sander, and just made the problem worse. There is now a large flat cloudy patch, instead of a small one. Can anything be done to rectify this? I believe the granite was not sealed. Was that correct? Also, and more worryingly, I have just noticed in the last week, that some erosion is occurring. This is happening uniformly all over the countertop, and occurring within the “ flecks” . I scratched one, and there are definite indentations forming, to the extent that it has tiny “ pockmarks” I am horrified. The stonemason told me ( I didn’t buy the stone from him) that I might have “ cheap Chinese granite” ( his words). I thought galaxy granite was galaxy granite. Is there anything I can do? I have no idea what caused the erosion. I am very careful about what I put on the surface, and I noticed this first occurring on the ledge over the low wall on top of my counter, which does not even get used as a food preparation area. Any info or help you could give me I would be totally grateful, Khatrina, April 15, Reply

R1: Dear Khatrina: When I was still in the fabrication business I had salesmen calling my shop offering “specials” on one granite or another at least once a week. Some times the “special prices” were quite enticing. However, as I was looking into those specials, it always turned out - with no exceptions – that the “special” was for them. In other words, they had to get rid of some low-grade slabs that nobody would ever buy. I personally never bought into those “specials”, but I can promise you that those bad slabs were not going to sit in their warehouses for a long time, and eventually they would end up in somebody’s home! Do you want an example? Take a look at your slab of Black Galaxy!! :-(If you add to the mix the “Michelangelo” who screwed up the finish in that spot … boy, you’re in a company I sure wouldn’t want to get involved with!! A reputable stone restoration contractor could take care of the mess made by your stonemason, but the crumbling of the slab is terminal. You do have a case, though. Black Galaxy – when it’s a good-grade slab – is among the most bullet-proof materials that money can buy for a kitchen countertop. It does not need to be sealed, and, actually, you don’t want it to have it sealed. The “stain” you had was not a stain at all, and it probably had to do with the fact that your fabricator did apply an impregnator/sealer to your countertop believing that Black Galaxy is granite. You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6608: Hi, I've been reading the forum in findstone.com for a couple of days now,but for the life of me cannot find where I'm supposed to post a question.Good thing I stumbled onto your email add. We've decided to update our kitchen and thinking about going with New Venetian Gold countertop. But I have read too any conflicting "views" about it that I'm more confused now than when I first started. So, I decided to ask the master for advice : ) is true granite?
Is that a good choice for countertop?
- how porous is it?
- how tough
- if its not a good choice, do you recommend anything around that shade of coloration? - and lastly, I read that you're from NJ too(I live in Union,NJ) is there anybody that you would recommend for the job in my area. I really don't want to end up dealing with a "Michelangelo". Our last resort would be going to Home Depot/Expo if we don't find anybody, I figure it might offer some level of "protection" for the job, is that advisable?
April 15, Reply

R1: No, it’s garnet gneiss.
It all depends on the grade of the slab. If it’s a good grade it will be an enjoyable countertop. If not, it will start releasing grits.
Very. But a good-quality impregnator/sealer like my MB-4 (which comes with a 10 year warranty) will provide all the stain protection that you need.
Pretty darn tough!
As a policy I never recommend anybody. Also as a policy, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6607: Help!!!!! I have managed to stain my new granite counter top with strawberry juice. How do I get it out? April 14, Reply

R1: Dear Holli: You managed to stain your granite, huh … Congratulations!! :-) Joking aside, it’s going to be an easy stain to remove. Talking about which, when it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6606: We are considering installing either Juperana Columbo or Juperana Fantastico as kitchen counters. Another option is Vyara. (As you can see, we like the look of “movement”). Any comment on absorption or other problems these stones may have? Would you recommend one over the other? We have two vendors. One wants to impregnate the stone, the other wants to put a sealer on top. Opinions? Does this stone need a sealer? I live in Virginia, where we have average humidity, if it matters. Thank you, Betsy Keogan, April 14, Reply

R1: Dear Betsy: You must have misunderstood the second vendor: there’s no such a thing like a topical sealer for granite. All sealers for stone are impregnators. That said, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature of my What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6605: We are pricing Avanza and Silestone for our kitchen counters and island. How is it best for me to clean them? I have been using white vinegar and water on my black ceramic floor in the powder room. What’s your wisdom? And thanks for sharing your knowledge on the internet. Gail, April 14, Reply

R1: Dear Gail: For all I know, being mostly quartz and all, it should be cared for with the same types of products which are appropriate for natural stone. However, it is my understanding that the manufacturers of Engineered Stone prefer to downplay the issue and advise people to use water and dish soap, with the same consequences typical of using such concoction on granite: accumulation of hard-to-remove soap film.If it were up to me I would use my MB-5, but it’s up to you to conclude whether it’s just a biased advice. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6604: We are buying a new house in Seattle area. I would like to know which granite countertop will be good for the kitchen with light colored hardwood flooring and little dark alderwood cabinets. We have chosen temporarily green ubatuba granite, what will be a good choice. Howmuch does it cost normally to put granite counter tops for a L shaped room and island in 13x11 size kitchen. What is good, slab granite, 12x12 granite ? Is it good to go with the reputed builder option of upgrading, April 14, Reply

R1: Dear Chandra: I don’t trust “reputable builders” for upgrading. I only trust reputable fabricators, and those are not typically the pick of “reputable builder” because they are not the lowest bidders. There are exceptions, of course, but I still have to see one! Solid slab is definitely better than tiles.I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per- download format and will also give you an idea of a fair price to pay. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6603: We have several items in our product line with marble tops and often are asked what type of top-coat can be applied on marble to prevent damage from spills or household products. We had a local refinishing guy apply a polyurethane and it will not adherer to the marble without coming off easily. Any suggestions will be helpful, April 10, Reply

Q 6602: I am trying to find out about the stone Azul Platino granite . Is it a good pick for kitchen counters? Does it need to be sealed? I love Blue Pearl but am finding that it might be to hard to fit into my current decor I like the Azul Platino also because it has the mica flecks in there that sparkle. If you can think of any other stones I might pick from please I am open to suggestions . I like the grey and blue colors but am open to any other neutral colors that you can think of that do not need sealed. I would like to avoid sealers. Also on granite can you use a light bleach on it for disinfection. I use a ratio now of 1 teaspoon of bleach per quart of water to disinfect counters I have now. I was told locally that I could do this without harm to stone . Love your sight. It has helped me a lot to learn about granites. I have found out that not many in my area know about the granite and give such misinformation. I did find one fabricator that knew that some granites did not need a sealer. Just have to now see his work. Take care and thank you in advance for any help you can give me. April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Sarina: I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature . It's available in pay-per- download format. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Expert Panelist

Q 6601: I found your site while looking for best daily cleaning products for our newly installed granite. I read your comment that "Uba Tuba" is NOT "real" granite!?!? Please expand on this, as we have just paid top dollar for our installation! And what about cleaning daily and otherwise? Sealing? THANK YOU so much. Jane, April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Jane: Ubatuba is a Charnockite from Brazil. A far cry from true granite, but I consider it a “better” stone than granite for the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop. In fact, for once, it does not need to be sealed (actually, you do NOT want to seal it, not even with my outlandish MB-4!) As for routine maintenance, My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6600: We recently had absolute black granite countertops installed. We need them cleaned, buffed and sealed. Can you recommend someone for the job? thank you, April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Blake:And why on earth would you want to have all that done?! :-) You do NOT want to seal Black granite to begin with (not even with my outlandish MB-4). Second, why does it need to be buffed? What’s wrong with it? My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the DUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! You’re in direct contact with me now.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6599: Building a custom home and thinking about installing, 'Caesarstone', a quartz product in the kitchen. What do you think about this in comparison to granite. We have granite now and it's been fine, just never really looks clean. However, in our new home we're going for a contemporary 'zen' look and haven't found a granite we like, all very busy, other then black, which we didn't want. The only negative we've heard about these 'quartz' products so far is a potential of fading if exposed to direct sun, which ours will not be Thank you for any info, and your personal input would be appreciated. doherty, April 10, Reply

Q 6598: We are building a new house and almost ready for flooring. It was suggested to us that we use travertine tile in the kitchen, nook, utility, and baths.--Now I am really confused because I have read everything that I can find on travertine and I find a lot of negative things. Such as: not good for kitchen, can be brittle.--What is the bottom line? Is it a good useable product or is it something to stay away from, April 10, Reply

Q 6597: I bought Travertine tiles to install in my home and I’m wondering if I can use the same test to determine if those tiles have to be sealed or not. Awaiting your reaction, Kim. April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Kenny: No, the lemon juice test is strictly for granite. To determine whether your travertine needs to be sealed, simply use water instead. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6596: How I wish I had read it before doing the kitchen countertop. We have just installed a Ghibli kitchen countertop, not the best choice for porousness/absorbency. The fabricator had put a coat of sealant on it. I am not sure what kind of sealant he used. If I want to use MB-4 on my kitchen counter, can I just apply it over the existing sealant? Or do I need to use Acetone before applying MB-4? Thank you. Yen, April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Yen: You will not have any compatibility problem between the two products, since MB-4 is water-carried. (Compatibility problems could arise only between two solvent-carried products.) Yes, MB-4 comes with precise directions. good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6595: I have Impregnator Pro (only one time) being applied by my installer on my newly installed kitchen countertop (ghibli) and bathroom vanities (shivashaki). After reading findstone website, I want to apply MB-4 over my existing kitchen and bathroom countertops for maximum protection against stains and spills. I would like to find out whether there would be any interaction between the 2 sealants. Are there any application instructions with the sealant? Yen, April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Yen: You will not have any compatibility problem between the two products, since MB-4 is water-carried. (Compatibility problems could arise only between two solvent-carried products.) Yes, MB-4 comes with precise directions. The product – like any other product of our line – is available Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6594: I ran across your web-site, and feel it's extremely useful. I'm impressed that you are extremely knowledgeable in any area of Marble/Granite.So, my question to you is simply this: I'm very concerned about my Dad's headstone. The Only thing that I do know, is that it's black granite. Of course, his name is engraved along the top of the headstone. My mom placed a pic of her and my dad in the center, here's our delimena (sorry about my spelling), the rest of the writing on his headstone you can barely see, it has become "washed out" so to speak, and it hasn't been there very long. We want to darken the rest of the wording - also, the other problem we seem to be having is the caulking around the picture was done in "white" of all colors, we want it done it black or dark grey, so that it isn't the only thing that "sticks out" (like a sore thumb). We want it to look presentable and readable. Any suggestions? Would greatly appreciate anything you have to offer. Please don't tell us to contact the cemetery, as we have done this in the past, and they claim that if they do this work, it would be approximately 6-8 weeks before we actually get his headstone placed back where it belongs. We do visit him quite frequently. And don't want them to take it anywhere. Thanks so much, Cathy, April 10, Reply

Q 6593: I am hoping you can provide some advise on repairing a travertine table.
The table is a beige color and all travertine, the edges are 1/2 thick slab. During transport a large 12" section broke off into two pieces on one of the sides. I can put it together like a puzzle but do not know what product I should use to glue it together so that it is not noticeable.
Can you suggest anything?
One thought I had is to grind some of the stone into a powder and mix with two part epoxy. Maybe I can get the stone from the inside edge that will not be seen. what do you think?? Many Thanks! Joe,
April 10, Reply

Q 6592: We are buying a new house that will have Santa Cecilia kitchen countertops and a full backsplash in the kitchen.
In addition there will be a bar top, a fireplace surround and a kitchen island top. The company installing the granite says it will be about 3.5 slabs total. How much MB4 will I need and what other products do you recommend for the maintenance.
Any other tips will be appreciated. Regards, Dave,
April 10, Reply

Q 6591: what is the remedy to a newly installed pool tile which is slippery. so i want to know the best way on how to make it a little rough. email me relevant information, April 10, Reply

Q 6590: I HAVE A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS RE: MY NEW KITCHEN COUNTERTOP NEW VENETIAN GOLD:
#1 HOW POROUS IS IT?
#2 HOW MANY TIMES WOULD I HAVE TO INITIALLY, AND ROUTINELY, SEAL IT?
#3 THE SEAL PLACED BY THE INSTALLERS SOUNDED/SMELLED LIKE IT WAS HYDROCARBON BASED; CAN I USE MAURIZIO'S MB-4 PRODUCT FOR IT NOW? April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Jim: #1 Unless the slab had been resined by the factory, New Venetian Gold is quite an absorbent stone. #2 A good impregnator/sealer for porous stone will need to be applied two to three the first time (an interval of 24 hours in between applications is recommended). How often after that depends on the make of the product. You will not have any compatibility problem between the two products, since MB-4 is water-carried. (Compatibility problems could arise only between two solvent-carried products.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6589: I would like to receive information about maintainence of stone floors & counter tops. I could probably recommend your site to customers if I feel it is good info. April 10, Reply

Q 6588: What is the best way to clean the granit tiles. I have some installed in my kitchen counter. Will it be hard to keep clean? Thanks in advance, Anne-Marie, April 10, Reply

Q 6587: We inherited a marble bust that is at least 60years old, and it needs a good cleaning . It is now a lillte discolored ( brownish) around the edges. I need your advice desperately in cleaning it safely. I have a candle stick mable top table and some water had spilled on it. Agter it was dried, the the shine and color became dull. Is there anything I can use to bring back the glossyness? Thanks, Zan, April 10, Reply

R1: Dear Randy: You could use my heavy-duty cleaner MB-9 (mildew stain remover), a medium-bristle brush and lots of patience and TLC! You may have to poultice it in certain spots (still using MB-9). About your marble table top, trust me: it was not water that was spilled on it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6586: I have clients who really want to have a slate floor in their kitchen and throughout their house, but they're worried that their dogs will scratch and ruin it. They've had hardwood floors in the past but were torn up by the dogs. They want the natural look of slate and the porcelain and slate look-alike tiles just don't have the same look. Is their any way to make slate extremely durable and not show scratch marks from the dogs? Is a low-hone finish a possiblity? Or a specific kind of sealer? Susan, April 05, Reply

Q 6585: I am interested in purchasing your manual on the proper maintenance of granite. We have countertops of bianco romano. Thank you. Sincerely, Paul, April 04, Reply

R1: Dear Paul: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Or you can order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, expert Panelist

Q 6584: I'm a researcher for the Index (Washington) Historical Society's Exhibitions Committee. For the 2004 season - Memorial Day thru September - this year's exhibit theme at the Pickett Museum will center around a company that was very important and essential to our town back at the turn of the last century, the Western Granite Works quarry, started in 1904 here in Index by John Soderberg, who also founded Swedish hospital in Seattle, WA, April 04, Reply

R1: In this endeavor we would like to educate our visitors on the importance that building in stone had to the advancement and progress of the Pacific Coast states - usually this importance was emphasized strongly to citizens when a wood- framed town burned to the ground, as Seattle did in 1889.
Most importantly in my research, I am trying to locate tables and graphs (hopefully with pictures) regarding anything to do with quarrying, and building stone names, similar properties and differences, and small sample blocks to use in a "Visitor's Quiz". Any assistance you might be able to give in this regard would be most appreciated. Kate

R2: Dear sirs, We are a exporting company of many different types of granites slabs. Please get in touch to us and let us have you needs

R3: Hi Kate: My name is Mohamed Rahman from Cairo,Egypt , I am a professional
geologist,who did lots of work in stones,I would suggest that you add a little card besides each of the stones you are willing to exhibit, the card is to explain the genesis of that stone(how it formed in nature),also it's mineral and chemical composition,do not you think that knowing the chemical composition of the stone will help the users avoid some sources damages and stains?. One more thing Kate, if you know the geological age of each of the stone specimen,and write it on the card too,I believe that may add an educational touch to your exihibit,good luck.Mohamed

Q 6583: We just had our kitchen countertops done in a Granite Tile from China in Royal Green. It is obvious that the tiles came from two batches and have different color variations. One is definately lighter than the other. It is hardly noticeable in the daytime but is noticeable at night under artificial lighting. The store where we bought the tile said to use a Revitalizer which will darken them over time. Is this true? Is there any other way to darken the lighter tiles to better match the darker ones? Thank you, -Pamela, April 04, Reply

R1: Pamela, I am a Chinese expert on granite. I don't believe the lighter can become darker through revitalizer. Its color is decided by naturally chosen rather than manly processing. Even two batches from same quarry may have different ingredients in quartz, calcium, and other aspects in which there is different reflecting under light. Why don't take it as naturally given? Sincerely Piness

R2: In the same material, marble or granite there are many differences of colour, the saler must control it and make 2 or 3 or more selection of the same material.

For example, about Bianco Carrara marble:

1. Snow white a. No veins b. Veins c. much veins

2. Light grey a. No veins b. Veins c. much veins

3. Grey a. No veins b. Veins c. much veins

4. Dark grey a. No veins b. Veins c. much veins

There are ca. 12 kinds of Bianco Carrara.

Go back to the saler and let Him make a good selection of the tiles, and then buy it again, but selected, light witht light and dark with dark, and not mixed togheter. Regards, Paolo

R3: Pamela. I serve on the board of China Granite International and have extensive
experience in many large stone projects. We do not sell to consumer groups in the US. But we do extract a Green stone from one of our Quarries in China. Some of this stone is resold via several resellers and does end up in the states.

Regardless of who sold the stone, or the source, I know the most likely answer to your question.

It is untrue the color will ever become the same over time, and not product you can add will change the effect. It will always be different. Adding any modification layers or glazes will change both stones and you may like the glazed looks but the underlying effect is in the nature of the underlying crystals in the stone.

It is very unlikely, if you were working with a reputable granite supplier, the stone came from different quarries.

It very likely the stone came from different layers or blocks within one quarry. The key clue your have it that the color looks the same in daylight. What has happened is probably the angle the material was crosscut at different angles in the two batches from the same quarry.
That has created the different variations in different light. It is not the spectrum of the light, but the single angle of night time lighting that causes the material to look different.

Granite is highly sensitive to lighting angles, in daylight, when light is bouncing all around from many angles, you are getting a variation of angles resulting in a composite color of all the angles appears the same to your eye.

At night, when you use only a single light source it comes back to your eye at only a limited set of reflective angles and thus the stones reflected color is highly sensitive to the angles the stone was cut at.

If you have any remaining tiles. Place two of them on top of the counter and then lift up edges of them 10 or 20%. you will eventually find an angle where the two stones appear the same color again, that will tell you the angle of variation in the cut.

The Granite industry tries to train our suppliers to understand this principle and to lay out the tiles for several days so without bonding them so clients can see them in all types of light. That does not always happen.

Hopefully you will remain a happy granite customer and will better understand the product in the future, but I wanted to save you the grief of trying to change the optics of the crystals inside of the stone with a finish or glaze. That won't work.
Best. Stephen

R4: First off, you should contact a Professional directly. use a cleaner is that it would not darken the stone over time. Secondly, I have expressed this concern to my clients on numerous occasions. If the tile is shaded now and if you make the lighter tiles darker will not the darker tiles turn darker also? I think the issue here is a shading one which is prevelant amongst Chinese granites.

R5: I believe the Royal Green is ChengDe Green which is from HeBi Province in China.Piness

R6: Dear Pamela, I don't know what revitalizer has been recommended.
I would suggest that you mix green colour in mansion polish and apply the same. Allow it to dry a little and then buff it. This will have to be repeated every 3~4 months.
Permanent solution would be as follows :-
1. Make the surface rough by grinding with no. 60 grinding wheel by hand grinder.
2. Next, mix green colour i the right quantity, in epoxy resin, then add cobalt to it.
3. Apply to the Granite top, and allow to dry for 24 hours.
4. Polish with hand grinder and polisher.
This will solve the problem permanently. Hope you find the above useful. I would like to know how you eventually solved he problem. Do let me know. Thanks & regards. Ravi

R7: Dear Sir/Madam It looks your Granite tiles processed from Baulders stones. They might vary in color slightly. By applying REVITALISER we can improve the colour of the granite tiles, but not for long. You should re-apply the same thing when ever you see the difference of color

R8: Dear Pamela, We as ultimate tone are mainly international consultants for stones and we mean by stones: granites marbles slates sandstones etc…To tell you the truth, the idea to sell tiles is to sell the lower version of stones. Why do I say lower version, because the formal way to get the higher version of any material is to have big slabs of it not tiles. Because the processing technologies to get big slabs are entirely different from the process to get tiles. So in brief explanation, buying tiles from a certain material is taking the risk to get either lower quality (hardness and abortion) either different color as it is in you case. Because to get tiles, the main quarry manager (the mine or the deposit manager) takes the waste of the quarry to process it as small tiles and this will affect the last end user price of course. and you can imagine when the waste of the quarry is to be used, it means no respect for any criterion of beauty or other. So I am very sorry to tell you that there are no additives invented yet to solve this problem. Any way all fluids made out fro oil base are extremely bad for health, especially when you want all you food on your counter top to be the healthiest food ever. As a result I want to tell you that when buying stone never buy the material, buy the beauty out of it. The material it self does not have any value in it if it does not give you the beauty

Q 6582: I have Cambrian black counters in my kitchen. I have a crack in the granite between my undermount sink and the outside edge of the counter. This strip is about 5"x 30" and is not supported. Is this considered acceptable business practise to not re-enforce this area? Can you put granite down directly ontop of the kitchen cabinetery or should there be a sheet of plywood put down first? April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Robert: No, you don’t need any plywood to support the slab. The fabricator should make usre that the top of the cabinets is in full contact with the slab all over. What’s even more important, they should have rodded the strips in front and back of the sink hole.If you need additional assistance, you will have to post your questions using the “1-on-1” consultation service that I offer out the Educational Literature, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: Dear Robert, Black Granite is one of the stronger granites available and we do not always rod the sink bands. This depends on the size of the piece and the size of the sink. During instllation the granite should be secured to the cabinet with a setting compound space out that will make a solid bond in gaps between the cabinets and granite. Unless your cabinets are exceptionally flat; which is rare, there will be gaps providing the installer leveled your tops and made them flat. Sincerely Clay Clemmer a professional installer.

Q 6581: I recently installed slab granite, the color being dark brown, resembling Imperial Coffee, but now the name escapes me. I know that the fabrication shop did some type "routine" sealing when polishing, prior to installing, but I am concerned that something else needs to be done. Hopefully, I am not too late. The threshold into the shower is also that granite and immediately, I noticed water spots. I figured it could be easily reversed if I just find out what cleaner I should use. Now after reading other messages, I worry that I may have already made a big error. Please respond right away, hopefully I didn't need to supply you with the exact name, but if so, let me know and I will be sure to find out what it is. glenda, April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Glenda: I’m not really sure I understand what you want to know. What kind of water stains are you talking about? What do they look like? Dikd you try to clean them off with a damp cloth? You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6580: Would you recommend using the mb-4 on blue pearl granite? Where do you get mb-4 from? My hairdresser complained that her fairly new black galaxy counter cracked when she had an indirect heating crock pot sitting on the counter. Her installer said that the heat did it. Then she had a oil spot from kids leaving buttered toast on the counter and the installer said to use a hair blow dryer to dry out the oil. Again her counter cracked. Does that sound normal? Thanks, Wade, April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Wade: It depends. If it’s the light color Blue Pearl, then you may want to consider applying my MB-4. If it is the Blue Pearl GT (the darker kind), then you wouldn’t.As for your report of what happened to your friend, no, it shouldn’t have cracked. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6579: We recently had Juparana Florenza granite kitchen counters installed. Sounds like this might not have been best choice re porousness/absorbency. But the counters seems to do fine with the lemon test -- no discoloration. And water does not get absorbed quickly. Perhaps they've been sealed by fabricator?

But that isn't the problem. The problem is this. The dominant color is peach/orange/brownish. But counters also always had a fair bit of black in them. It seems (especially according to my wife) that the counters are developing more black -- that the black somehow seems to be seeping up, especially in parts of stone that looked sort of crystalline. Does this make any sense? What might it be? Thanks much. April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Sidley: I really have no clue about the “mysterious” black developing in your countertop. Never heard of such a thing before. What I do understand is that your countertop was not sealed properly. (“And water does not get absorbed quickly.” It does gets absorbed, though slowly!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6578: I have a marble floor in my livingroom that was installed a year ago. I have a couple of questions. The squares are 12 x 12 a toothpick was used between each square when setting it.Does the grout need to be sealed? And if so, how do I do this? My son spilled a glass of water on it and there is now a mark left, how do I get the mark out of the marble, it is in the center of the floor naturally. Thank you, Lisa, April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Lisa: I wouldn’t bother sealing the grout. As for the thing that you son had in his glass, believe you me, it was something different from water! (Soda, orange juice, perhaps) Water does not make “water stains!” :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6577: I have just had a granite shower (Juparana India granite) installed in my home. The contractor applied a petroleum distillate sealer (Limestone & Marble Protector, made by Prosoco) which has proven to be very ineffective on the shower floor and shower door sill. The floor area where one stands stays dark as does the sill. It took 3 weeks for it to dry out before a further coating of the sealer was applied, and it turned dark after one shower. Can the product you describe as MB-4 be applied over the existing sealant? What procedure do you suggest? Where can the product you describe be purchased? I live in Orinda, California, near San Francisco. Thank you. R. Kent, April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Kent: Applying my MB-4 (which is water-carried) over a product that’s solvent-carried will not create any funny non-compatibility problems and should work. Notice, however, that I said: SHOULD, not WILL. In other words, the only negative possibility is that the products will not perform at its best. Most of the time it does work, but we would not honor our standard satisfaction guarantee if it won’t. You may want to consider looking into one of our two granite kits. You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6576: I have just ordered this white granite with aqua, green, brown and black flecks in it. I had planned to use it as kitchen counter and peninsula tops and backsplashes in my kitchen as I thought it was the most durable material available. After reading your site I am wondering if I made a mistake. This area is the most used in the house for crafting as well as food prep and serve, plus we live on coffee and tea (stains)! Help!!!! Linda, April 02, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: I never heard of that particular stone. But it really doesn’t matter. I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!

I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on the Educational Literature. It's available in pay-per- download format. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist