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| Q 8651: We have
been sealing our Black Galaxy counters with a solvent-based
sealer for the past 3 years. The last time we sealed it was
a few weeks ago and we are having a problem with buildup and
smudging. The counters were originally sealed by the installer
who simply stated "any granite sealer would do". After rubbing
and rubbing for days I decided to look on the internet for solutions.
I found this website and some information stating that the counters
should not have been sealed in the first place. Where do I go
from here and how do I maintain them going forward? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Patron: Many thanks for purchasing our educational literature,
which you find here attached and that I hope you will find informative.
We want to take the opportunity to let you know that all our
own pay-per-download articles are available for FREE to our
established customers. Should you decide to give our fine specialty
products a try by buying some through our secured online retail
store for a minimum value of $49.00 (before S. & H. charges)
you will be welcome to ask for any other title, FREE of charge,
through the CONTACT US section of our site, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8650: I recently
had granite countertops installed and shortly after completion
came home to discover a huge coffee stain ring surrounding the
coffee pot. I had not noticed this before leaving the house
so it had about 8 hours to be absorbed.
I was unable to link to your site for advice on stain removal.
I have being reading that hydrogen peroxide can be used to remove
stains from granite. I was wondering if this product would be
harmful to the stone in anyway? Much Sadness, Reply
|
|
|
| R1:
Dear Much Sadness: (This ain’t your real name, is it? :lol:)
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever
uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains
by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may
already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature
will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and
what to do about the latter! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q 8649: We're thinking
of having granite countertops installed in our kitchen and I
keep reading were you say "maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select
it" and "get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations". I'm writing you as stated
as I'm interested learning your guidelines. Can you forward
them to me? Thanks Stan, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Stan: First off, there’s no need for me to forward the
guidelines to you. Bear in mind, however, that at this stage
of your “stone adventure” the most important article you want
to get hold of is “How to Shop for a Granite Countertop”. In
fact, the man is much more important than the stone! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8648: I
understand you have an article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen
Countertop". How can I gain access to this article?
Thanks, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Steve: Yep, you understand it right! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8647: We installed
white Carrara marble tile on our bathroom floor about 1 year
ago and the tiles around the toilet have yellowed. i have looked
though your forum and found out that this will be due to water/moisture.
is this common around toilets? was wondering if i may have to
remove the toilet and check for seepage...also, tiny black marks
have started to appear. will this be acid etch? i'm pretty sure
the guy that installed didn't seal it. is this something i can
do now, or is i too late? is there a product i can use to remove
the black marks and then seal over the floor? many thanks, andy,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Andy: You have a leak from the wax seal under the toilet
and the moisture soaked the marble tiles oxidizing the iron
mineral that White Carrara marble is rich with. In a nutshell:
your tiles are rusted through and through and there’s nothing
that you can do to remove the stain. The tiles have to be replaced
after you solved the structural problem that caused the damage,
of course. As for the tiny black marks you’re reporting, I have
no idea what they could be without actually seeing them, but
I can assure you that the lack of sealer has nothing to do with
them, no matter what they are. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8646: Rusty water
from my planters has seeped onto and over the sides of my granite
stairs. Will RSR remove it? Please advise. Thank you. Shelley,
Reply
|
|
|
| R1:
Dear Shelly: You do NOT want to use RSR on granite! Don’t even
think about it! When it comes to stain removal, either you buy
one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less
money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains
by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may
already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature
will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and
what to do about the latter! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8645: 1. What
is the exact sulotion on how to restore the gloss of granite?
The story goes like this, us we install the granite in the floor,
we found out that the have not an exact level between the end
to end of granite. What we did was we grind using an ordinary
portable grinder with sand paper from big granule to very fine,
but the result was a dull one. 2. What's come first waxing or
sealing the GRANITE prior to finishing? (ready to us) 3. How
can we prevent staining from granite? Hope you can give me the
remedies.Thanks a lot, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Inquirer: (got a name? :-)) You’ve gotta be kidding me!!
Please, pretty please, tell me that you’re not serious!!
If I have to go along with the joke, your only option is to
hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will have
to grind, hone and polish the whole floor. Stone is polished
be abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by putting a wax
onto it!
It will cost you a bundle, but, on the other hand, if you knew
how to install granite tile properly, you wouldn’t need to hire
a professional to fix your incompetent doing. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8644: Can you
tell me about Kirkstone. It is from Europe, though my friend
got it through New York. I love the green look and the matte
finish. Is this a durable alternative for the kitchen and do
you know if any fabricators in the Boston area? Gina,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Gina: Kirkstone is quarried in England and belongs to the
slate group. You do NOT want it anywhere near your kitchen!
Consider hone-finished green marble treated with a good-quality
stone color enhancer (instead of a regular impregnating sealer)
as an alternative. Most importantly, focus on the man, not the
stone! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone
itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very
site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator.
That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m
not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and
the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which
is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade
slabs, not some “special!” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8643: I've just
read all the reasons not to have Absolute Black honed "granite".
Unfortunately, we knew nothing of your site until after we had
it installed in our kitchen. Our granite was sealed by the fabricators
and again on site by the installers. We now know it is not needed.
I would like to use stone color enhancer / sealer as you recommend
to cut down on the dark marks, etc. Should we strip the current
sealer off first, and if so, how? I'm troubled some by the finger
smudges, etc., but also by the lighter dusty swirl marks the
installers seemed to seal into the surface when they put the
finish on it on site. Also, the installers said to use Windex
to clean it, which seems to work somewhat. The person who drilled
more holes for us later said not to use the glass cleaner because
it would eventually take off the finish and etch the surface
of the stone, which adds to our confusion. Thanks, Mary, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mary: You MUST get rid of the impregnating sealer! And
the only way to do that effectively is to have a professional
stone restoration contractor re-hone your countertop with honing
powder. It will be money well spent, because the honing performed
by using a good-quality honing powder will give a finish that’s
much better (more uniform) than the one produced by the factory.
After that you will apply a good stone color enhancer like my
outlandish MB-6.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you
can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not
likely to get good information about it from your dealer or
installer. Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8642: I am laying
12x12 inch honed and filled red travertine Turkish tiles in
my 10x12 foot entry way. Currently, there are 1/2 inch thick
hardwood boards (some damaged) over a wood diagonal board subfloor.
I am not sure what I have to do to prepare the floor for the
tiles. I think I need to pull up the old hardwood but am at
a loss after that (new subfloor, underlayment, backerboard,
mortar, it all runs together for me). Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Crystal, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Crystal: Your query requires more attention than usual,
however. “One-on-One” consultation service that’s available
there for a small fee. I will be more than happy to answer up
to four (4) of your questions. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8641: Hello,
We had Limestone 18x18" tile installed in two of the rooms in
our home about 3 weeks ago.("Batig Blue" to be exact). The tiles
appeared damp at first, and have slowly dried somewhat, but
there are still damp areas, specifically directly around all
of the grout lines. At this rate of evaporation, it looks like
it could take 3 months for them to dry! The problem is, I want
to seal these tiles since both these rooms will be used as art
& painting studios. We have a very excellent solvent-based
sealer we used on our slate floors (Fila Wet), but requires
that the tile be absolutely dry and clean. Our contractor, though
very good, knows very little about this kind of thing, let alone
understanding the English language. Do you have any experience
with this issue with Limestone tile? Advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Chris, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Chris: By saying limestone you’re saying absolutely noting.
There are many different (and I do mean different) kinds of
limestone that span from dense and (almost) acceptable rocks,
to limestone that will actually melt under running hot water,
and everything in between. So which limestone do you have? I
really don’t like your report of this excessive drying time.
Are those floors installed on a concrete slab on grade? And
if so, did the installer apply a proper water-proof membrane
on the sub floor? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8640: I just built a new
home in India with marble floors. The marble is cream colored.
(Not sure if this is relevant, but the dealer told me it was
quarried in Oman, but someone else said Italy and a third person
said Turkey.) The marble floor was installed in slabs of 2 feet
by 3 feet. I just moved into he house last week and noticed
that there are dark (yellowish) water stains roughly parallel
to the joints between the slabs. (The contractor says he filled
the joints with something called "white cement" and then applied
a checmical treatment to the entire floor.) Is there anything
that I can do to remove the unsightly stains short of replacing
the marble? (BTW, the contractor does not know English and I
do not know his language, so I am not even sure what he has
done with the marble.) Could this problem have been caused by
rain water falling on the floor during the marble laying process?
(The windows were open during that time.) Thanks for helping!
Vic, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Vic: I don’t have a clue on what your installer did to
that floor, but the mention of “chemical treatment” gives me
the creeps! (Could it be “crystallization”?... I can’t think
of anything else.) If that’s the case I’ve got some good news
and some bad news for you. The bad news is that the floor is
doomed. The good news is that’s only money! If it’s something
different, then there could be hope. You must find out exactly
what this vague “chemical treatment” is all about, and then
we’ll take it from there. Could I ask you for a personal favor?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8639: We are looking at
either Verde Tropical or Emerald Pearl "granite" for our kitchen
counters. I know that black granites should never by sealed
or honed. Does that hold true for these darker green "granites"
as well? We have not yet ordered and I want to get it right
from the get go. Thanks for your advice. Chris, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Chris: The two stones you mentioned could be suitable with
a hone finish, providing that a good quality stone color enhancer
like MB-6 is applied to it instead of a regular impregnating
sealer. However, allow me to tell you that you’re starting with
the wrong foot!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the
only true deciding factor! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
8638: I am just starting
my kitchen project and have chosen the granite Costa Esmeralda
for the lighter almost marbleized color greens/ yellows and
softness of shade which I’ve seen in one yard and before purchasing
want to get any advice from you experts. Is this problematic?
Are there any tips I should be asking the fabricator ? I know
just about nothing about granite and would like to try and avoid
problems… By the way, I'm looking for in stock in the Los Angeles
area- approx 40 square feet ---about how much should this run
in materials? thank you in advance for any tips- about installation/fabricator/
and care--Myrna, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Myrna: Quite honestly I still have to discover what kind
of a stone Costa Esmeralda is. I’ve heard mixed feedback about
it, but nothing definite. However, allow me to tell you that
you’re starting with the wrong foot! I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8637: I know you aren't
suppsed to recommend specific cleaners, but I'd like to get
a glossy finish on my 2 year old verde ubatuba kitchen countertops.
What ingredients should I look for in a cleaner, and, of course,
which should I avoid? thekisskas, Reply
|
R1:
Dear The Kisskas: The formulation of a cleaning product is not
just putting a whole bunch of different ingredients in a pot
and then mixing them together. The most important issue is how
the ingredients are connected to one another.
That is why I always recommend specialty cleaning agents for
natural stone, like MB-5 or MB-17. (And don’t forget MB-13!)
They’ve been extensively tested as being safe on just about
any natural stone on the planet! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8636: What is the proper
care of Travertine? How do I avoid wine, coffee staining Travertine?
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Judy: Coffee will rarely stain your travertine. If it is
polished (opposed to hone-finished) it will not stain it all.
Wine will not stain it, either. It will, however, etch it (make
a dull spot) because of the acidity inherent to wine (acetic
acid). Nothing could prevent that. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important
than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As
you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer
or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8635: Can you give me some
advice on Santa Cecilia? It seems to show “pitts” throughout
the surface, that were not apparent when we picked the slab.
Thanks, Dianne, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Dianne: [quote] that were not apparent when we picked the
slab.[/quote]
You picked the slab? What’s your degree of expertise at doing
that? All granite and most mercantile granite have (more or
less) pits all throughout their texture. Santa Cecilia, which
is Garnet Gneiss (didn’t they tell you that?), has typically
more pits than average. If it’s really bad it could also be
a low-grading slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8634: I have a cast marble
counter top in my kitchen and I noticed that where a glass was
set there is now a water ring mark. What can I do to remove
it. Thank, Genie, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Genie: I didn’t know that they made cast-marble kitchen
countertops. To tell you the truth, I would have liked it much
better to never get to know it! Cast-marble does behave like
true marble (etching, which is what you have), but being a manmade
material I really wouldn’t know how to repair the damage. Don’t
panic, though: first off, never forget that’s only money; second,
I’m positive that the knowledgeable merchants that sold that
stuff to you will know everything and then some about it, and
will solve your problem in no time at all! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8633: I JUST (last friday)
installed soapstone countertops in my kitchen. I love them -however....
there is a small crack right in front of my sink, and behind
the faucet. The installer sanded the crack, put epoxy on it,
and said it was okay. I'm concerned that I should have the piece
replaced. The cracks are about 3-4 inches long each and go all
the way through the piece of soapstone. Can you offer me any
advice? Are cracks okay in soapstone? Ann, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ann: “Are cracks okay in soapstone?” Cracks are NOT okay
in soapstone, shampoostone or any other stone!! The areas of
your countertop where the cracking occurred should have been
properly rodded. Have your “no problem” fabricator replace the
cracked section and demand that they rod it where necessary.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8632: I'm currently looking
at a stone Giallo-Vizensa because my original choose was Impala
Black and the dealer could not find the Black stone. I would
like to know if Giallo-Vizensa is a good kitchen countertop
stone? Thank you, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Denise: I hope you will understand the true meaning of
what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other
inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type
of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human
nature at work, I reckon!:-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
8631: I have a saltwater
pool with Crab Orchard stone coping that was completed in December.
We also have used the same crab orchard stone on a nearby patio.
I'm having a problem with some of the stones in the coping producing
sandy grit that tends to get in the pool after it rains. The
amount of grit varies, but I'd say that it can be as much as
approximately one-third a handful (this is what I pull out of
my Polaris cleaner). Some of the stones - particularly the reds
and beiges - are starting to show small effects of this erosion.
I can't tell that we are having the same problem with the stone
in other areas like the patio, so I'm guessing that the saltwater
is aggravating the problem. I've talked to several "experts"
in the area, and the consensus seems to be to let the stone
go through a complete weather cycle before doing anything like
sealing, etc. in order to see if the stone will stabilize by
itself. We like the natural stone look and want to avoid sealing
if possible, but I'm concerned about the erosion. What do you
think? Will any kind of sealer help this kind of problem, or
will it just make things worse? If a sealer will help, is there
anytime that will allow us to keep the natural look of the stone
as much as possible? J. Peter, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Pete: I really don’t know if your stone will ever “stabilize”
itself over time, but one thing I can promise you: the only
good thing that a sealer for stone – any type or make – will
ever do is helping their makers, distributors and applicators
to put their kids through college! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8630: We had 3500 square
feet of Turkish travertine installed in the interior of our
newly constructed highrise beachfront condo on Marco Island
Florida. After the installation, the contractor (a very large,
reputable one in Naples Florida) did not cover or seal the floor
(it states in our contract he was to do so). Many other trades
that we hired were still working inside (electricians, drywallers,
finish carpenters ect.). The travertine has a factory honed
finish, but most of the stones look like they have a paste or
film on them, or just look dirty. We thought this would be resolved
in refinshing the floor. Our marble installer hired a natural
stone restoration company who came in and rehoned the floor
with 180 powder and finished it with 511 sealer and enhancer.
The dirty, pasty looking patches are still present. Did they
not resurface them deep enough? I have read or heard something
about diamond resurfacing. Could or should that be done? We
paid $80,000.00 for this floor and we are very disappointed.
Please respond with your expert advise as soon as possible.
Thank you very much. Sherryl, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sherryl: As usual, the problem is not with the stone: it’s
rather with the man! I know exactly what your problem is and
I have the final solution for you. I also know that the stone
refinishing company is the sole cause of your problem. Considering
the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair
that you give them a chance to rectify the situation.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
8629: I moved into my home
just a week ago, and my husband decided to cook maybe 3 pounds
of sausage and bacon this morning, and splattered grease all
over our tumbled copper slate backsplash which we have not yet
sealed. I read through most of the posts on this website, and
was unable to find anything specifically addressing my issue.
Being a backsplash it's on a vertical surface so it doesn't
provide the same options for some of the treatments you recommend
for counters or floors, additionally, the countertops are coffee
brown granite, so anything i use on the backsplash must not
damage/effect the granite. My husband has found that a solution
of our normal handwash dishdetergent and water seems to work
slowly but surely at removing the grease. But my next question
is sealing.
The backsplash is light, mixed colors. light Greens, light reds,
some blues and yellows but mostly greens and reds. When wet
it looks way too dark so i'm worried about trying your suggestions
of mineral spirits. I don't think i want a glossy look either.
the grout is buckskin beige which is a light beigy brown. We
purchased a grout sealer that's supposed to evaporate off of
tiles and not affect color/sheen. Can anyone please enumerate
my tile sealing options for me? Including any manufacturered
products that might not affect the look of my slate very much,
but still seal it well? It doesn't have to not affect it at
all, but i don't want to take it too far away from the look
we like so much now. thank you for your help, Andi Conrad, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Andi: The kind of slate you mentioned is rather problematic.
Many a time even an impregnating sealer that’s not supposed
to darken the stone will do just that. You’re best bet is to
test a spare tile with one or two different impregnating sealers.
As for the removal of the stains, even if it’s a vertical surface
the poulticing method is the way to go. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive
guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and
far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to
tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8628: I did the lemon juice
test on a sample tile of absolute black "granite". The drop
just sat there, seemingly unabsorbed, for about a minute before
I wiped it away. It left a light gray spot in the exact shape
of the drop. The area of the spot is still shiny, but you can
see it at a certain angle. I then assumed the tile must have
some sealer on it that must be etched. So, I applied a stripper/remover
containing methylene chloride. Nothing changed. That is, no
"sealer" or dyes came off. Can it be assumed that there is no
sealer on it and that the stone etched, or do I need to flood
the tile in the methylene chloride based remover? I love the
site and hope you can help me decide how to best use this tile.
Fattie, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Fattie: Do this: flood the tile with lemon juice or white
vinegar. Let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe it dry. It should
be all of the same color as the spot you have now. Spill a few
drops on lemon juice (or white vinegar) and repeat your original
test.
If the spots will etch again, then the stone actually etched
and means that it contains some calcite binders within. You
don’t want that! If instead the new test will no produce any
further etching, then it means that the tiles had been doctored
and the makeup is now completely removed. What you see is (a
uniform, lighter color) is what you’re buying. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8627: Based on your condemnation
of slate as an inappropriate bathroom material, we found some
tile that is labeled as granite for our bathroom project. For
the walls, we found polished tile with a speckled, swirly grey,
black and white appearance. For the floor, we found a blacker
polished stone with visible crystals. How can I ensure that
they are indeed granite and not marble before we put them in
the hostile environment of a shower stall? Can we slip-proof
them by affixing some sort of sand to the top or by a surface
treatment? Could we do this ourselves or would we need to take
it to a fabricator? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Bill: It may not be true geological granite, but when they
sell a stone as granite it’s never marble. At any rate, the
lemon juice test will tell you. As for the slipperiness issue,
the problem is solved by cutting the tiles into smaller tiles
(3” x 3” or 4” x 4”) and the set them with a grout gap of 1/8”.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8626: Can you tell me how
to clean dirt and other organic material off of marble left
outside? Also, I have to make a repair of a smallish five inch
piece that broke off a wing. Which epoxy do you recommend for
outside, white marble. One of your responses says to avoid kits,
but the stores I go to only carry huge vats of akemi. thanks,g,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Virginia: About the cleaning chore my outlandish MB-9 is
“your man”! ! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8625: We just installed
granite countertops, light gold Kashmir and the day after noticed
a dark stain under oil drops left over. The installer had supposedly
sealed it, don't know the type used, what do you recommend in
terms of type of sealer and approach with the installer as we
have not paid the last half of the project. Thanks for your
comments. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Irene: Even assuming that your installer did apply a sealer
to your stone, they clearly did not do a good the job. Now remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day
out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself
and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become
another statistic Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8624: I'm getting nervous
about an upcoming remodel involving 3 bathrooms. Please tell
me what you think about the choices I've 'tentatively' made.
First, on a bathroom floor (not in the shower): a bluish-green
limestone called Basilica Verde (distributed by Emser). If it's
an OK choice, how do I care for it in terms of 1) to seal or
not to seal; and 2) ongoing maintenance. Second, in another
bathroom: a travertine slab countertop (the only name I have
for it is the color: "Classic".) Again, if it's a reasonable
choice, what are your suggestions re sealing and ongoing maintenance.
P.S. I have verde butterfly granite in my kitchen and it looks
great after 5 years. I see no need to apply sealer. Do you agree?
Thank you. Maybe once I have your response I'll sleep better
at night. Lately I wake up with nightmares about these decisions.
Kristen, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: Your query requires more attention than usual,
however.“One-on-One” consultation service that’s available there
for a small fee. I will be more than happy to answer up to four
(4) of your questions. Or you could choose to have a consultation
with me over the telephone. The charge for that is going to
be $35.00 for the first 10 minute plus $3.50 a minute for each
minute thereafter. Both options will also entitle you to two
articles of my educational literature at no charge, just for
the asking. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8623: I need to discuss
with somebody who has experience with coral stone that is 4"
thick that is installed around a swimming pool of how to clean
seal & maintain, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Inquirer: And why would you want to seal the poor thing?
It was born and raised under water, for crying out loud! :-)
Let the rain take care of routine cleaning, power-wash it once
a year with amazing MB-9 and … don’t forget to enjoy it! (Spread
the word to the rest of your family, too! :-)) ! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8622: we will be replacing
some old marble tiles with newer ones on our floor. is it ok
to gloss it with polyurethane when the job is done? any special
preparation before we apply polyurethane? can we patch up the
old cracks iwth grout just to "fill up" the cracks before we
put polyurethane? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lisa: You know what? For a split second you almost
got me!! I do appreciate your sense of humor, but be careful:
one may think that you’re serious about the polyurethane thing
on marble!! Don’t worry, I’ll let the people at findstone.com
know that you were only kidding! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8621: Hi, I was reading
you site and am wondering if travertine is ok to use in a bathroom
– specifically, on the floor, around the tub and in the whole
shower(walls and floor). If it is ok, what is the best sealant
to be used on it and what type of cleaners can I safely use?
I haven’t bought the tile yet, so would like input before buying.
Thank you! Kate, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kate: “on the floor, around the tub and in the whole
shower (walls and floor).” Yes, it is quite a suitable material,
providing that’s installed properly, especially inside the shower
stall! “on the floor, around the tub and in the whole shower
(walls and floor).”Travertine is not very porous (I know: you’ve
heard differently from left and right!). If it’s polished you
do NOT need to seal it. If it’s hone-finished, you may want
to consider – just as an extra-precaution - one application
of a good impregnating sealer like MB-4 “what type of cleaners
can I safely use?” That is what you really have to be concerned
about! The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out
to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself
and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8620: We just remodeled
our kitchen and have Imperial Brown Granite Countertop and backsplash.
What is the best way to maintain this granite? For example,
daily cleaning and long term maintenance. Thanks, Debbie, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Debbie: You sure came to the right place! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio Expert Panelist |
| Q
8619: I just had granite
counters installed and they measure just under 3c. Only just
barely. Is there much inconsistantcy in the thickness? Was I
ripped off? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Julia: We all know that beside me nobody’s perfect!! :-)
The definition of 3 cm. is only nominal. Gang-saws can’t guarantee
a perfect, consistent cut when they slice blocks of stone. A
difference of up to plus or minus 3 mm (1/8”) is within industry
standards.
You’re worried about a smidge of a difference in a granite slab,
and then you go buy 2” x 4” that are actually 1 ¾” x 3 ¾” without
questioning anything … Go figure! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
8618: I've read most of
your comments regarding marble, but still dont know which will
add more value/desirability/ to the house. I purchased 120 Sq
Ft of etched Marbel, it is not polished or smooth. It has a
rough beautiful marbled surface. As with all homes here, there
is a crawl space under the house so its not built on a slab.
Presently my home contains a maple hardwood foyer, that continues
around through the breakfast area and kitchen. I want to remove
the hardwood and have the marbel put only in the foyer. (How
do I deal with the height differance?) I plan to use a cermaic
tile that matches the marbel. The ceramic tile border will but
up to the marble that continues through the breakfast area and
kitchen. The home is an executive home ($450,000. Plus) located
in Tacoma, WA. We are an older couple that do not entertain,
no children, the front door isnt used extnsively, as we go in
an out the garage most of the time. We are four years from retirement
and I know we will sell the home when I retire. Is it easier
to sell the house with hardwood floor or marble. Which will
add more value at sale time?
I install ceramic tile an do a fair job, but have never tried
marble. Any advice will be appreciated. Morris, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Julia: We all know that beside me nobody’s perfect!! :-)
The definition of 3 cm. is only nominal. Gang-saws can’t guarantee
a perfect, consistent cut when they slice blocks of stone. A
difference of up to plus or minus 3 mm (1/8”) is within industry
standards.
You’re worried about a smidge of a difference in a granite slab,
and then you go buy 2” x 4” that are actually 1 ¾” x 3 ¾” without
questioning anything … Go figure! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8617: we have found gauged,
indian multi-color slate from lowes and tumbled mosaic multicolor
slate from somewhere in asia as an accent. we would like to
put it on bathroom walls, floor and shower stall but are worried
the material will be problematic, even if we seal it. what could
happen when exposed to high pH water, personal care and cleaning
products? talk us out of it if slate is a bad idea. if slate
is out, what can we use in the bathroom that is practical, beautiful,
waterproof and in the case of the floor, not slippery? i have
a hard time with synthetic slate. even the best knock-offs look
phony to me. much obliged, laurie lynn, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lynn: The word problematic implies the possibility of a
problem. Problems always have a solution, no matter how difficult.
In your case the word, “problem” does not apply. I would rather
use the word, “tragedy”! There’s no solution for that! Shall
I say more?... I didn’t think so! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8616: I came across your
very helpful website as it appears the same way most of your
requests did - in a fearful panic about what to do. I have scoured
the answers given and think I have my answer but given the expense
of my counter tops and my total ignorance about stone I am fearful
to just "wing it with a sealer." My kitchen countertops are
a beautiful Green Argento Granite. I did the lemon test and
after 45 minutes there was no stain. However, a month ago when
the countertops were installed a wet rag that sat on the counter
for an hour by the plumber (installing an island sink) that
had some mineral spirit smelling liquid mixed in left a dark
mark that did evaporate quickly when I removed the rag (after
panicking and heart palpitations of course!). My granite installer,
architect and designer say they have never sealed granite and
suggest not to seal mine. The folks I bought the granite from
say seal it. I have a lemon test success and a water mixed with
weird substance dark stain that evaporated after 30 minutes.
Please help - seal or not seal - I am desperate because there
truly are no stone experts to ask here in the Bahamas. Thank
you! Kelly M, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Kelly: Although I saw it once (it’s very limited-production
quarry out of Italy) I can’t say I am familiar with Grigio Argento.
About the sealing issue, while I’m certainly not a minister
of the “sealing cult” and my record shows that I always maintained
that impregnating sealers are among the most overrated, oversold
and over-applied products in humankind history. That doesn’t
mean, however, that are totally useless products. They do have
a rather important function when they are required; therefore
the theory of not sealing any “granite” is an exaggeration in
the other direction. Considering your report of the (temporary)
staining you experienced, I would apply a good-quality stone
impregnating sealer to your stone. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8615: Thanks for your helpful
advice on findstone.com. We just bought "New Venetian Gold".
Eight days ago I left a crystal pitcher of water on the countertop,
and the condensation formed a ring. Per the fabricator's instructions
I tried a hair dryer and a fan. Then they came and applied a
poultice (I am not sure what) and told me to remove it after
4 hours. It did lighten the ring, but it is still visible. Could
it have been something in the crystal pitcher? The fabricator
says water does not leave a stain, and has been adamant that
there is nothing more they will do. Any suggestions as to type
of poultice to try? Thanks, Christine, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Christine: "The fabricator says water does not leave a
stain, and has been adamant that there is nothing more they
will do." Wow, some customer service! I'm really impressed,
especially considering that: A) they did a lousy sealing job
and, B) they don't even know that a poultice can't work in only
4 hours, not to mention that, very possibly, they don't know
what to poultice the stain with!
What to do now? When it comes to stain removal, either you buy
one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less
money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains
by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may
already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature
will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and
what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag,
and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE section
If after purchasing the above article you still have some questions,
don't hesitate to ask. Finally remember, it's never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue
of what you'll be doing day in and day out to your stone is
far more important than the sealing itself and it's all too
often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site's
postings, you're not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic!
You're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8614: Not a fan of the
"bling" that polished black granite has to offer, but love the
color. I found some slabs of "antiqued cambrian black" It appears
somewhat honed/polished flecks, dempled texture. I did lemon,
oil, actone, water, and butter test on my sample (let it set
for over an hour) and it wiped clean without leaving any stains.
Could this be the answer to all of us out here that love black
granite without the high sheen? I have read your website with
great interest about the honed black granite advice. What exactly
is this mysterious "antiqued" technique, I have not seen much
written about it. Any advice on maintaining it if we should
take the plunge installation for kitchen countertops?
Reply
|
| R1:
I didn’t have the opportunity to visit a factory recently,
therefore about the antiquing process I only know what I’ve
been told from reliable sources. It is basically a flaming process
followed by brush-honing and the application of a … fancy name!
Knowing Cambrian Black anorthosite quite well, however, I can
assure you that you will never need to seal that stone! All
the tests that you ran confirm that big time. Just maintain
it with a good-quality stone cleaner like my amazing MB-5 and
be happy for years to come! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
8613: I have travertine
flooring in my home and am experiencing some pitting. Some pits
are up to 1/8" in dept and up to 1/4 to 3/8" in diameter. How
should these pits be repaired? What type of filler should be
used? George, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear George: The most practical product to use is color-matching
caulk. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8612: Hi, I've been reading
your column about limestone floors. I had installed unfilled,
honed limestone on the first floor of my new home, kitchen included.
Everything you've said is true regarding cleaning. I love the
floors and like the durability with pets. I wouldn't say they're
the cleanest floors, but luckily I'm passed the baby crawling
stages. I've found regular mopping and vacuuming with attachment
for grouting and holes works well. Periodically I clean with
a machine that also sucks up the water residue. Twice a year,
I mix a little bleach in water and use a stiff broom in the
grout crevices in high traffic areas, mainly kitchen. Then wipe
with a clean damp cloth. All of this has worked well for the
last 5 years. When speaking with a stone mason, he insisted
that the stone be sealed and should have been done once a year.
He recommended he do this when our family was out of town due
to fumes. He charged $1.00 a square foot which totaled $2900!
My house sitter said he was here for 2 hours. He and 2 other
men applied a sealer with a cloth over the surface. In some
areas where the stone was covered by area rugs, the rugs were
removed, sealer applied and within 15 minutes rugs replaced.
Of course I was not here and the check was immediately cashed.
I have several questions...did I even need to seal? How could
such a thin layer make a difference? What is the usual charge
| |
