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| Q 8651: We have been
sealing our Black Galaxy counters with a solvent-based sealer for
the past 3 years. The last time we sealed it was a few weeks ago and
we are having a problem with buildup and smudging. The counters were
originally sealed by the installer who simply stated "any granite
sealer would do". After rubbing and rubbing for days I decided to
look on the internet for solutions. I found this website and some
information stating that the counters should not have been sealed
in the first place. Where do I go from here and how do I maintain
them going forward? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Patron: Many thanks for purchasing our educational literature,
which you find here attached and that I hope you will find informative.
We want to take the opportunity to let you know that all our own pay-per-download
articles are available for FREE to our established customers. Should
you decide to give our fine specialty products a try by buying some
through our secured online retail store for a minimum value of $49.00
(before S. & H. charges) you will be welcome to ask for any other
title, FREE of charge, through the CONTACT US section of our site,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8650: I recently had
granite countertops installed and shortly after completion came home
to discover a huge coffee stain ring surrounding the coffee pot. I
had not noticed this before leaving the house so it had about 8 hours
to be absorbed.
I was unable to link to your site for advice on stain removal. I have
being reading that hydrogen peroxide can be used to remove stains
from granite. I was wondering if this product would be harmful to
the stone in anyway? Much Sadness, Reply
|
|
|
| R1:
Dear Much Sadness: (This ain’t your real name, is it? :lol:) When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
“stains”, and what to do about the latter! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q 8649: We're thinking
of having granite countertops installed in our kitchen and I keep
reading were you say "maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it" and "get my thorough
and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations".
I'm writing you as stated as I'm interested learning your guidelines.
Can you forward them to me? Thanks Stan, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Stan: First off, there’s no need for me to forward the guidelines
to you. Bear in mind, however, that at this stage of your “stone adventure”
the most important article you want to get hold of is “How to Shop
for a Granite Countertop”. In fact, the man is much more important
than the stone! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8648: I
understand you have an article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen
Countertop". How can I gain access to this article? Thanks,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Steve: Yep, you understand it right! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8647: We installed
white Carrara marble tile on our bathroom floor about 1 year ago and
the tiles around the toilet have yellowed. i have looked though your
forum and found out that this will be due to water/moisture. is this
common around toilets? was wondering if i may have to remove the toilet
and check for seepage...also, tiny black marks have started to appear.
will this be acid etch? i'm pretty sure the guy that installed didn't
seal it. is this something i can do now, or is i too late? is there
a product i can use to remove the black marks and then seal over the
floor? many thanks, andy, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Andy: You have a leak from the wax seal under the toilet and
the moisture soaked the marble tiles oxidizing the iron mineral that
White Carrara marble is rich with. In a nutshell: your tiles are rusted
through and through and there’s nothing that you can do to remove
the stain. The tiles have to be replaced after you solved the structural
problem that caused the damage, of course. As for the tiny black marks
you’re reporting, I have no idea what they could be without actually
seeing them, but I can assure you that the lack of sealer has nothing
to do with them, no matter what they are. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8646: Rusty water from
my planters has seeped onto and over the sides of my granite stairs.
Will RSR remove it? Please advise. Thank you. Shelley, Reply
|
|
|
| R1:
Dear Shelly: You do NOT want to use RSR on granite! Don’t even think
about it! When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8645: 1. What is the
exact sulotion on how to restore the gloss of granite? The story goes
like this, us we install the granite in the floor, we found out that
the have not an exact level between the end to end of granite. What
we did was we grind using an ordinary portable grinder with sand paper
from big granule to very fine, but the result was a dull one. 2. What's
come first waxing or sealing the GRANITE prior to finishing? (ready
to us) 3. How can we prevent staining from granite? Hope you can give
me the remedies.Thanks a lot, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Inquirer: (got a name? :-)) You’ve gotta be kidding me!! Please,
pretty please, tell me that you’re not serious!!
If I have to go along with the joke, your only option is to hire a
bona fide stone restoration contractor who will have to grind, hone
and polish the whole floor. Stone is polished be abrasion and friction,
like gemstone, not by putting a wax onto it!
It will cost you a bundle, but, on the other hand, if you knew how
to install granite tile properly, you wouldn’t need to hire a professional
to fix your incompetent doing. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8644: Can you tell
me about Kirkstone. It is from Europe, though my friend got it through
New York. I love the green look and the matte finish. Is this a durable
alternative for the kitchen and do you know if any fabricators in
the Boston area? Gina, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Gina: Kirkstone is quarried in England and belongs to the slate
group. You do NOT want it anywhere near your kitchen!
Consider hone-finished green marble treated with a good-quality stone
color enhancer (instead of a regular impregnating sealer) as an alternative.
Most importantly, focus on the man, not the stone! In an industry
that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator
who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that
get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all
stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8643: I've just read
all the reasons not to have Absolute Black honed "granite". Unfortunately,
we knew nothing of your site until after we had it installed in our
kitchen. Our granite was sealed by the fabricators and again on site
by the installers. We now know it is not needed. I would like to use
stone color enhancer / sealer as you recommend to cut down on the
dark marks, etc. Should we strip the current sealer off first, and
if so, how? I'm troubled some by the finger smudges, etc., but also
by the lighter dusty swirl marks the installers seemed to seal into
the surface when they put the finish on it on site. Also, the installers
said to use Windex to clean it, which seems to work somewhat. The
person who drilled more holes for us later said not to use the glass
cleaner because it would eventually take off the finish and etch the
surface of the stone, which adds to our confusion. Thanks, Mary, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mary: You MUST get rid of the impregnating sealer! And the only
way to do that effectively is to have a professional stone restoration
contractor re-hone your countertop with honing powder. It will be
money well spent, because the honing performed by using a good-quality
honing powder will give a finish that’s much better (more uniform)
than the one produced by the factory. After that you will apply a
good stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out
to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from
your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8642: I am laying 12x12
inch honed and filled red travertine Turkish tiles in my 10x12 foot
entry way. Currently, there are 1/2 inch thick hardwood boards (some
damaged) over a wood diagonal board subfloor. I am not sure what I
have to do to prepare the floor for the tiles. I think I need to pull
up the old hardwood but am at a loss after that (new subfloor, underlayment,
backerboard, mortar, it all runs together for me). Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks, Crystal, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Crystal: Your query requires more attention than usual, however.
“One-on-One” consultation service that’s available there for a small
fee. I will be more than happy to answer up to four (4) of your questions.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8641: Hello, We had
Limestone 18x18" tile installed in two of the rooms in our home about
3 weeks ago.("Batig Blue" to be exact). The tiles appeared damp at
first, and have slowly dried somewhat, but there are still damp areas,
specifically directly around all of the grout lines. At this rate
of evaporation, it looks like it could take 3 months for them to dry!
The problem is, I want to seal these tiles since both these rooms
will be used as art & painting studios. We have a very excellent
solvent-based sealer we used on our slate floors (Fila Wet), but requires
that the tile be absolutely dry and clean. Our contractor, though
very good, knows very little about this kind of thing, let alone understanding
the English language. Do you have any experience with this issue with
Limestone tile? Advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Chris, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Chris: By saying limestone you’re saying absolutely noting. There
are many different (and I do mean different) kinds of limestone that
span from dense and (almost) acceptable rocks, to limestone that will
actually melt under running hot water, and everything in between.
So which limestone do you have? I really don’t like your report of
this excessive drying time. Are those floors installed on a concrete
slab on grade? And if so, did the installer apply a proper water-proof
membrane on the sub floor? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8640: I just built a new home
in India with marble floors. The marble is cream colored. (Not sure
if this is relevant, but the dealer told me it was quarried in Oman,
but someone else said Italy and a third person said Turkey.) The marble
floor was installed in slabs of 2 feet by 3 feet. I just moved into
he house last week and noticed that there are dark (yellowish) water
stains roughly parallel to the joints between the slabs. (The contractor
says he filled the joints with something called "white cement" and
then applied a checmical treatment to the entire floor.) Is there
anything that I can do to remove the unsightly stains short of replacing
the marble? (BTW, the contractor does not know English and I do not
know his language, so I am not even sure what he has done with the
marble.) Could this problem have been caused by rain water falling
on the floor during the marble laying process? (The windows were open
during that time.) Thanks for helping! Vic, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Vic: I don’t have a clue on what your installer did to that floor,
but the mention of “chemical treatment” gives me the creeps! (Could
it be “crystallization”?... I can’t think of anything else.) If that’s
the case I’ve got some good news and some bad news for you. The bad
news is that the floor is doomed. The good news is that’s only money!
If it’s something different, then there could be hope. You must find
out exactly what this vague “chemical treatment” is all about, and
then we’ll take it from there. Could I ask you for a personal favor?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8639: We are looking at either
Verde Tropical or Emerald Pearl "granite" for our kitchen counters.
I know that black granites should never by sealed or honed. Does that
hold true for these darker green "granites" as well? We have not yet
ordered and I want to get it right from the get go. Thanks for your
advice. Chris, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Chris: The two stones you mentioned could be suitable with a
hone finish, providing that a good quality stone color enhancer like
MB-6 is applied to it instead of a regular impregnating sealer. However,
allow me to tell you that you’re starting with the wrong foot!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say.
It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about
if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get
a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important
than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
8638: I am just starting my kitchen
project and have chosen the granite Costa Esmeralda for the lighter
almost marbleized color greens/ yellows and softness of shade which
I’ve seen in one yard and before purchasing want to get any advice
from you experts. Is this problematic? Are there any tips I should
be asking the fabricator ? I know just about nothing about granite
and would like to try and avoid problems… By the way, I'm looking
for in stock in the Los Angeles area- approx 40 square feet ---about
how much should this run in materials? thank you in advance for any
tips- about installation/fabricator/ and care--Myrna, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Myrna: Quite honestly I still have to discover what kind of a
stone Costa Esmeralda is. I’ve heard mixed feedback about it, but
nothing definite. However, allow me to tell you that you’re starting
with the wrong foot! I hope you will understand the true meaning of
what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers
at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I
reckon!:-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8637: I know you aren't suppsed
to recommend specific cleaners, but I'd like to get a glossy finish
on my 2 year old verde ubatuba kitchen countertops. What ingredients
should I look for in a cleaner, and, of course, which should I avoid?
thekisskas, Reply
|
R1:
Dear The Kisskas: The formulation of a cleaning product is not just
putting a whole bunch of different ingredients in a pot and then mixing
them together. The most important issue is how the ingredients are
connected to one another.
That is why I always recommend specialty cleaning agents for natural
stone, like MB-5 or MB-17. (And don’t forget MB-13!) They’ve been
extensively tested as being safe on just about any natural stone on
the planet! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8636: What is the proper care
of Travertine? How do I avoid wine, coffee staining Travertine?
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Judy: Coffee will rarely stain your travertine. If it is polished
(opposed to hone-finished) it will not stain it all. Wine will not
stain it, either. It will, however, etch it (make a dull spot) because
of the acidity inherent to wine (acetic acid). Nothing could prevent
that. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too
often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer
or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8635: Can you give me some advice
on Santa Cecilia? It seems to show “pitts” throughout the surface,
that were not apparent when we picked the slab. Thanks, Dianne,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Dianne: [quote] that were not apparent when we picked the slab.[/quote]
You picked the slab? What’s your degree of expertise at doing that?
All granite and most mercantile granite have (more or less) pits all
throughout their texture. Santa Cecilia, which is Garnet Gneiss (didn’t
they tell you that?), has typically more pits than average. If it’s
really bad it could also be a low-grading slab. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8634: I have a cast marble counter
top in my kitchen and I noticed that where a glass was set there is
now a water ring mark. What can I do to remove it. Thank, Genie,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Genie: I didn’t know that they made cast-marble kitchen countertops.
To tell you the truth, I would have liked it much better to never
get to know it! Cast-marble does behave like true marble (etching,
which is what you have), but being a manmade material I really wouldn’t
know how to repair the damage. Don’t panic, though: first off, never
forget that’s only money; second, I’m positive that the knowledgeable
merchants that sold that stuff to you will know everything and then
some about it, and will solve your problem in no time at all! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8633: I JUST (last friday) installed
soapstone countertops in my kitchen. I love them -however.... there
is a small crack right in front of my sink, and behind the faucet.
The installer sanded the crack, put epoxy on it, and said it was okay.
I'm concerned that I should have the piece replaced. The cracks are
about 3-4 inches long each and go all the way through the piece of
soapstone. Can you offer me any advice? Are cracks okay in soapstone?
Ann, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ann: “Are cracks okay in soapstone?” Cracks are NOT okay in soapstone,
shampoostone or any other stone!! The areas of your countertop where
the cracking occurred should have been properly rodded. Have your
“no problem” fabricator replace the cracked section and demand that
they rod it where necessary. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
8632: I'm currently looking at
a stone Giallo-Vizensa because my original choose was Impala Black
and the dealer could not find the Black stone. I would like to know
if Giallo-Vizensa is a good kitchen countertop stone? Thank you, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Denise: I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its
physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8631: I have a saltwater pool
with Crab Orchard stone coping that was completed in December. We
also have used the same crab orchard stone on a nearby patio. I'm
having a problem with some of the stones in the coping producing sandy
grit that tends to get in the pool after it rains. The amount of grit
varies, but I'd say that it can be as much as approximately one-third
a handful (this is what I pull out of my Polaris cleaner). Some of
the stones - particularly the reds and beiges - are starting to show
small effects of this erosion. I can't tell that we are having the
same problem with the stone in other areas like the patio, so I'm
guessing that the saltwater is aggravating the problem. I've talked
to several "experts" in the area, and the consensus seems to be to
let the stone go through a complete weather cycle before doing anything
like sealing, etc. in order to see if the stone will stabilize by
itself. We like the natural stone look and want to avoid sealing if
possible, but I'm concerned about the erosion. What do you think?
Will any kind of sealer help this kind of problem, or will it just
make things worse? If a sealer will help, is there anytime that will
allow us to keep the natural look of the stone as much as possible?
J. Peter, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Pete: I really don’t know if your stone will ever “stabilize”
itself over time, but one thing I can promise you: the only good thing
that a sealer for stone – any type or make – will ever do is helping
their makers, distributors and applicators to put their kids through
college! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8630: We had 3500 square feet
of Turkish travertine installed in the interior of our newly constructed
highrise beachfront condo on Marco Island Florida. After the installation,
the contractor (a very large, reputable one in Naples Florida) did
not cover or seal the floor (it states in our contract he was to do
so). Many other trades that we hired were still working inside (electricians,
drywallers, finish carpenters ect.). The travertine has a factory
honed finish, but most of the stones look like they have a paste or
film on them, or just look dirty. We thought this would be resolved
in refinshing the floor. Our marble installer hired a natural stone
restoration company who came in and rehoned the floor with 180 powder
and finished it with 511 sealer and enhancer. The dirty, pasty looking
patches are still present. Did they not resurface them deep enough?
I have read or heard something about diamond resurfacing. Could or
should that be done? We paid $80,000.00 for this floor and we are
very disappointed. Please respond with your expert advise as soon
as possible. Thank you very much. Sherryl, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sherryl: As usual, the problem is not with the stone: it’s rather
with the man! I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final
solution for you. I also know that the stone refinishing company is
the sole cause of your problem. Considering the kind of money they
made out of you, I think it’s only fair that you give them a chance
to rectify the situation. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
8629: I moved into my home just
a week ago, and my husband decided to cook maybe 3 pounds of sausage
and bacon this morning, and splattered grease all over our tumbled
copper slate backsplash which we have not yet sealed. I read through
most of the posts on this website, and was unable to find anything
specifically addressing my issue. Being a backsplash it's on a vertical
surface so it doesn't provide the same options for some of the treatments
you recommend for counters or floors, additionally, the countertops
are coffee brown granite, so anything i use on the backsplash must
not damage/effect the granite. My husband has found that a solution
of our normal handwash dishdetergent and water seems to work slowly
but surely at removing the grease. But my next question is sealing.
The backsplash is light, mixed colors. light Greens, light reds, some
blues and yellows but mostly greens and reds. When wet it looks way
too dark so i'm worried about trying your suggestions of mineral spirits.
I don't think i want a glossy look either. the grout is buckskin beige
which is a light beigy brown. We purchased a grout sealer that's supposed
to evaporate off of tiles and not affect color/sheen. Can anyone please
enumerate my tile sealing options for me? Including any manufacturered
products that might not affect the look of my slate very much, but
still seal it well? It doesn't have to not affect it at all, but i
don't want to take it too far away from the look we like so much now.
thank you for your help, Andi Conrad, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Andi: The kind of slate you mentioned is rather problematic.
Many a time even an impregnating sealer that’s not supposed to darken
the stone will do just that. You’re best bet is to test a spare tile
with one or two different impregnating sealers. As for the removal
of the stains, even if it’s a vertical surface the poulticing method
is the way to go. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the
latter! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8628: I did the lemon juice test
on a sample tile of absolute black "granite". The drop just sat there,
seemingly unabsorbed, for about a minute before I wiped it away. It
left a light gray spot in the exact shape of the drop. The area of
the spot is still shiny, but you can see it at a certain angle. I
then assumed the tile must have some sealer on it that must be etched.
So, I applied a stripper/remover containing methylene chloride. Nothing
changed. That is, no "sealer" or dyes came off. Can it be assumed
that there is no sealer on it and that the stone etched, or do I need
to flood the tile in the methylene chloride based remover? I love
the site and hope you can help me decide how to best use this tile.
Fattie, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Fattie: Do this: flood the tile with lemon juice or white vinegar.
Let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe it dry. It should be all of the
same color as the spot you have now. Spill a few drops on lemon juice
(or white vinegar) and repeat your original test.
If the spots will etch again, then the stone actually etched and means
that it contains some calcite binders within. You don’t want that!
If instead the new test will no produce any further etching, then
it means that the tiles had been doctored and the makeup is now completely
removed. What you see is (a uniform, lighter color) is what you’re
buying. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8627: Based on your condemnation
of slate as an inappropriate bathroom material, we found some tile
that is labeled as granite for our bathroom project. For the walls,
we found polished tile with a speckled, swirly grey, black and white
appearance. For the floor, we found a blacker polished stone with
visible crystals. How can I ensure that they are indeed granite and
not marble before we put them in the hostile environment of a shower
stall? Can we slip-proof them by affixing some sort of sand to the
top or by a surface treatment? Could we do this ourselves or would
we need to take it to a fabricator? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Bill: It may not be true geological granite, but when they sell
a stone as granite it’s never marble. At any rate, the lemon juice
test will tell you. As for the slipperiness issue, the problem is
solved by cutting the tiles into smaller tiles (3” x 3” or 4” x 4”)
and the set them with a grout gap of 1/8”. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8626: Can you tell me how to
clean dirt and other organic material off of marble left outside?
Also, I have to make a repair of a smallish five inch piece that broke
off a wing. Which epoxy do you recommend for outside, white marble.
One of your responses says to avoid kits, but the stores I go to only
carry huge vats of akemi. thanks,g, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Virginia: About the cleaning chore my outlandish MB-9 is “your
man”! ! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8625: We just installed granite
countertops, light gold Kashmir and the day after noticed a dark stain
under oil drops left over. The installer had supposedly sealed it,
don't know the type used, what do you recommend in terms of type of
sealer and approach with the installer as we have not paid the last
half of the project. Thanks for your comments. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Irene: Even assuming that your installer did apply a sealer to
your stone, they clearly did not do a good the job. Now remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your
stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too
often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer
or installer. Don’t become another statistic Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8624: I'm getting nervous about
an upcoming remodel involving 3 bathrooms. Please tell me what you
think about the choices I've 'tentatively' made. First, on a bathroom
floor (not in the shower): a bluish-green limestone called Basilica
Verde (distributed by Emser). If it's an OK choice, how do I care
for it in terms of 1) to seal or not to seal; and 2) ongoing maintenance.
Second, in another bathroom: a travertine slab countertop (the only
name I have for it is the color: "Classic".) Again, if it's a reasonable
choice, what are your suggestions re sealing and ongoing maintenance.
P.S. I have verde butterfly granite in my kitchen and it looks great
after 5 years. I see no need to apply sealer. Do you agree? Thank
you. Maybe once I have your response I'll sleep better at night. Lately
I wake up with nightmares about these decisions. Kristen, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: Your query requires more attention than usual, however.“One-on-One”
consultation service that’s available there for a small fee. I will
be more than happy to answer up to four (4) of your questions. Or
you could choose to have a consultation with me over the telephone.
The charge for that is going to be $35.00 for the first 10 minute
plus $3.50 a minute for each minute thereafter. Both options will
also entitle you to two articles of my educational literature at no
charge, just for the asking. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
8623: I need to discuss with
somebody who has experience with coral stone that is 4" thick that
is installed around a swimming pool of how to clean seal & maintain,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Inquirer: And why would you want to seal the poor thing? It was
born and raised under water, for crying out loud! :-)
Let the rain take care of routine cleaning, power-wash it once a year
with amazing MB-9 and … don’t forget to enjoy it! (Spread the word
to the rest of your family, too! :-)) ! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8622: we will be replacing some
old marble tiles with newer ones on our floor. is it ok to gloss it
with polyurethane when the job is done? any special preparation before
we apply polyurethane? can we patch up the old cracks iwth grout just
to "fill up" the cracks before we put polyurethane? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lisa: You know what? For a split second you almost got me!!
I do appreciate your sense of humor, but be careful: one may think
that you’re serious about the polyurethane thing on marble!! Don’t
worry, I’ll let the people at findstone.com know that you were only
kidding! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8621: Hi, I was reading you site
and am wondering if travertine is ok to use in a bathroom – specifically,
on the floor, around the tub and in the whole shower(walls and floor).
If it is ok, what is the best sealant to be used on it and what type
of cleaners can I safely use? I haven’t bought the tile yet, so would
like input before buying. Thank you! Kate, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kate: “on the floor, around the tub and in the whole shower
(walls and floor).” Yes, it is quite a suitable material, providing
that’s installed properly, especially inside the shower stall! “on
the floor, around the tub and in the whole shower (walls and floor).”Travertine
is not very porous (I know: you’ve heard differently from left and
right!). If it’s polished you do NOT need to seal it. If it’s hone-finished,
you may want to consider – just as an extra-precaution - one application
of a good impregnating sealer like MB-4 “what type of cleaners can
I safely use?” That is what you really have to be concerned about!
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone
is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often
neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer
or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8620: We just remodeled our kitchen
and have Imperial Brown Granite Countertop and backsplash. What is
the best way to maintain this granite? For example, daily cleaning
and long term maintenance. Thanks, Debbie, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Debbie: You sure came to the right place! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio Expert Panelist |
| Q
8619: I just had granite counters
installed and they measure just under 3c. Only just barely. Is there
much inconsistantcy in the thickness? Was I ripped off? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Julia: We all know that beside me nobody’s perfect!! :-) The
definition of 3 cm. is only nominal. Gang-saws can’t guarantee a perfect,
consistent cut when they slice blocks of stone. A difference of up
to plus or minus 3 mm (1/8”) is within industry standards.
You’re worried about a smidge of a difference in a granite slab, and
then you go buy 2” x 4” that are actually 1 ¾” x 3 ¾” without questioning
anything … Go figure! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q
8618: I've read most of your
comments regarding marble, but still dont know which will add more
value/desirability/ to the house. I purchased 120 Sq Ft of etched
Marbel, it is not polished or smooth. It has a rough beautiful marbled
surface. As with all homes here, there is a crawl space under the
house so its not built on a slab. Presently my home contains a maple
hardwood foyer, that continues around through the breakfast area and
kitchen. I want to remove the hardwood and have the marbel put only
in the foyer. (How do I deal with the height differance?) I plan to
use a cermaic tile that matches the marbel. The ceramic tile border
will but up to the marble that continues through the breakfast area
and kitchen. The home is an executive home ($450,000. Plus) located
in Tacoma, WA. We are an older couple that do not entertain, no children,
the front door isnt used extnsively, as we go in an out the garage
most of the time. We are four years from retirement and I know we
will sell the home when I retire. Is it easier to sell the house with
hardwood floor or marble. Which will add more value at sale time?
I install ceramic tile an do a fair job, but have never tried marble.
Any advice will be appreciated. Morris, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Julia: We all know that beside me nobody’s perfect!! :-) The
definition of 3 cm. is only nominal. Gang-saws can’t guarantee a perfect,
consistent cut when they slice blocks of stone. A difference of up
to plus or minus 3 mm (1/8”) is within industry standards.
You’re worried about a smidge of a difference in a granite slab, and
then you go buy 2” x 4” that are actually 1 ¾” x 3 ¾” without questioning
anything … Go figure! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8617: we have found gauged, indian
multi-color slate from lowes and tumbled mosaic multicolor slate from
somewhere in asia as an accent. we would like to put it on bathroom
walls, floor and shower stall but are worried the material will be
problematic, even if we seal it. what could happen when exposed to
high pH water, personal care and cleaning products? talk us out of
it if slate is a bad idea. if slate is out, what can we use in the
bathroom that is practical, beautiful, waterproof and in the case
of the floor, not slippery? i have a hard time with synthetic slate.
even the best knock-offs look phony to me. much obliged, laurie lynn,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lynn: The word problematic implies the possibility of a problem.
Problems always have a solution, no matter how difficult. In your
case the word, “problem” does not apply. I would rather use the word,
“tragedy”! There’s no solution for that! Shall I say more?... I didn’t
think so! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8616: I came across your very
helpful website as it appears the same way most of your requests did
- in a fearful panic about what to do. I have scoured the answers
given and think I have my answer but given the expense of my counter
tops and my total ignorance about stone I am fearful to just "wing
it with a sealer." My kitchen countertops are a beautiful Green Argento
Granite. I did the lemon test and after 45 minutes there was no stain.
However, a month ago when the countertops were installed a wet rag
that sat on the counter for an hour by the plumber (installing an
island sink) that had some mineral spirit smelling liquid mixed in
left a dark mark that did evaporate quickly when I removed the rag
(after panicking and heart palpitations of course!). My granite installer,
architect and designer say they have never sealed granite and suggest
not to seal mine. The folks I bought the granite from say seal it.
I have a lemon test success and a water mixed with weird substance
dark stain that evaporated after 30 minutes. Please help - seal or
not seal - I am desperate because there truly are no stone experts
to ask here in the Bahamas. Thank you! Kelly M, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Kelly: Although I saw it once (it’s very limited-production quarry
out of Italy) I can’t say I am familiar with Grigio Argento.
About the sealing issue, while I’m certainly not a minister of the
“sealing cult” and my record shows that I always maintained that impregnating
sealers are among the most overrated, oversold and over-applied products
in humankind history. That doesn’t mean, however, that are totally
useless products. They do have a rather important function when they
are required; therefore the theory of not sealing any “granite” is
an exaggeration in the other direction. Considering your report of
the (temporary) staining you experienced, I would apply a good-quality
stone impregnating sealer to your stone. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8615: Thanks for your helpful
advice on findstone.com. We just bought "New Venetian Gold". Eight
days ago I left a crystal pitcher of water on the countertop, and
the condensation formed a ring. Per the fabricator's instructions
I tried a hair dryer and a fan. Then they came and applied a poultice
(I am not sure what) and told me to remove it after 4 hours. It did
lighten the ring, but it is still visible. Could it have been something
in the crystal pitcher? The fabricator says water does not leave a
stain, and has been adamant that there is nothing more they will do.
Any suggestions as to type of poultice to try? Thanks, Christine,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Christine: "The fabricator says water does not leave a stain,
and has been adamant that there is nothing more they will do." Wow,
some customer service! I'm really impressed, especially considering
that: A) they did a lousy sealing job and, B) they don't even know
that a poultice can't work in only 4 hours, not to mention that, very
possibly, they don't know what to poultice the stain with!
What to do now? When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to do about the
latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through
our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE section If after purchasing the above article
you still have some questions,
don't hesitate to ask. Finally remember, it's never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you'll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it's all too often neglected. As you can tell
by reading many of this site's postings, you're not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don't become
another statistic! You're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8614: Not a fan of the "bling"
that polished black granite has to offer, but love the color. I found
some slabs of "antiqued cambrian black" It appears somewhat honed/polished
flecks, dempled texture. I did lemon, oil, actone, water, and butter
test on my sample (let it set for over an hour) and it wiped clean
without leaving any stains. Could this be the answer to all of us
out here that love black granite without the high sheen? I have read
your website with great interest about the honed black granite advice.
What exactly is this mysterious "antiqued" technique, I have not seen
much written about it. Any advice on maintaining it if we should take
the plunge installation for kitchen countertops? Reply
|
| R1:
I didn’t have the opportunity to visit a factory recently, therefore
about the antiquing process I only know what I’ve been told from reliable
sources. It is basically a flaming process followed by brush-honing
and the application of a … fancy name! Knowing Cambrian Black anorthosite
quite well, however, I can assure you that you will never need to
seal that stone! All the tests that you ran confirm that big time.
Just maintain it with a good-quality stone cleaner like my amazing
MB-5 and be happy for years to come! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
8613: I have travertine flooring
in my home and am experiencing some pitting. Some pits are up to 1/8"
in dept and up to 1/4 to 3/8" in diameter. How should these pits be
repaired? What type of filler should be used? George, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear George: The most practical product to use is color-matching
caulk. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8612: Hi, I've been reading your
column about limestone floors. I had installed unfilled, honed limestone
on the first floor of my new home, kitchen included. Everything you've
said is true regarding cleaning. I love the floors and like the durability
with pets. I wouldn't say they're the cleanest floors, but luckily
I'm passed the baby crawling stages. I've found regular mopping and
vacuuming with attachment for grouting and holes works well. Periodically
I clean with a machine that also sucks up the water residue. Twice
a year, I mix a little bleach in water and use a stiff broom in the
grout crevices in high traffic areas, mainly kitchen. Then wipe with
a clean damp cloth. All of this has worked well for the last 5 years.
When speaking with a stone mason, he insisted that the stone be sealed
and should have been done once a year. He recommended he do this when
our family was out of town due to fumes. He charged $1.00 a square
foot which totaled $2900! My house sitter said he was here for 2 hours.
He and 2 other men applied a sealer with a cloth over the surface.
In some areas where the stone was covered by area rugs, the rugs were
removed, sealer applied and within 15 minutes rugs replaced. Of course
I was not here and the check was immediately cashed. I have several
questions...did I even need to seal? How could such a thin layer make
a difference? What is the usual charge and time? Shouldn't the areas
remain uncovered for a longer time? And if they are covered by rugs,
why would they even need sealing? I was totally ripped off, wasn't
I? Isn't this something I could have done? If it's even necessary.
For that price I thought it was some very involved process. Thanks
for your input!! Cindy Raleigh, NC, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Cindy: Your query requires more attention than usual, however.
“One-on-One” consultation service that’s available there for a small
fee. I will be more than happy to answer up to four (4) of your questions.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8611: I have a biege- like dull
terrazzo floor in my home and thought of using a light coat of muriatic
acid, to etch the concrete out of the floor, similar to a skin peel,
then fill in the etched area with either a white Portland cement mixed
with small colored marble chips, or a ready made colored venetian
plaster or venetian stucco, if there is such a product, then smooth
and seal. Do you think it will work or do you think I'm batso? I have
no previous experience but am willing to give it a go. If you don't
think I'm batso could you give me any advice on how to do it. Thanks
for your expert advice Stan Feinman, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Stan: I don’t know the exact meaning of “batso” (I couldn’t find
it in the dictionary), but if it means something like crazy, or koo-koo,
or nutso … then yes, you’re batso, all right and big time, too!! :-)
Don’t even think about it!! Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor in your neck of the woods and have you old terrazzo floor
brought back to new life by slightly grinding it, honing and polishing.
A few days after the completion of the job, apply a good-quality stone
penetrating sealer like my outlandish MB-4, keep it good with incredible
MB-1 and, optionally, my amazing MB-7, and … enjoy!
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct
contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8610: I live Florida, we are
remodeling our 100 yr. old cracker house. The front porch is made
of concrete, and is old and ugly. I would like to redo the concrete
be covering it with slate, which is think will look in keeping with
the house. Question...Do you think slate is a good choice. I am told
by my local Home Depot, that the slate has to be sealed every year.
What type of sealer? I saw an ad for Stain-proof, that uses silane
molecules and says it will offer a 15yr seal. Also my husband thinks
that slate that is sealed or even unsealed could be slippery in the
rain. What do you think? thanks Barb, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Barbara: In a nutshell: you do NOT want slate outdoors, indoors
or in between, unless it’s on your roof (not the slate from the HD,
though!), and whether is sealed, unsealed or in between. You’re welcome!
(Anticipating your thank you!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
8609: I have been looking at
different kitchen surfaces and asthetically I'm drawn to limestone
because of its more subtle color and pattern. I was really concerned
though, after reviewing your comments. I had a piece of Jeruselum
Gold , unfinished and straight from the stoneyard, which I then subjected
for 10 minutes to lemon juice, A1 sauce and salsa. I didn't notice
any significant change. Am I not leaving the products on long enough?
Or does this particular stone fare better with regard to staining?
If you believe the stone is a poor choice would you recommend a better
product which has the subtle look I'm going for? Thanks for your expertise.-s.d.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sara: Jerusalem Gold is a very special “animal” on its own league,
within the realm of limestone! IMO it is by far the best that there
is out there! If you’re in the hands of a good fabricator, go for
it! While you are in the “Helpful Hints” section, do spend some time
reading all of the interesting FREE articles you’ll find in there!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
8608: OK, I didn't read your
site before I had honed absolute black granite counter tops installed.
I am good about using hot pads and cleaning up spills. But let's face
it, stuff happens. Now how do I clean it? There are lighter circles
where I have left wet pots to drain. The one area where I do most
of my food prep is lighter. And of course finger marks galore. Help!
Ane, Reply
|
Dear
Ane: Welcome to the club, “I-whish-I-knew-better-before-getting-a-black-honed-granite-countertop!”
The following is the answer that I give to all inquirers like you:
“HONED-FINISHED BLACK ABSOLUTE
There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black
hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that
it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite
is that it is not, well … black any more! Most black stones are but
an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished,
or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your
stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just
that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you
wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you
simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're
going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible
eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains.
In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor),
while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If
you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your
problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from
being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite
is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the gray!
If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop
(such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator/sealer) instead of
an impregnating sealer it will turn it permanently black, while preserving
the hone finish. In that way, the surface-staining problem would be
minimized. Let’s just hope that your fabricator, in their “infinite
wisdom,” did not apply an impregnator/sealer to your stone: this would
have to be stripped (not an easy feat!), or else the color/enhancer
wouldn’t stand a chance to work properly.” Any other questions? And
don’t you forget that in order to upkeep your stone and the color
enhancer, your best bet is to use out MB-5 and/or MB-17 for your daily
care! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
8607: Our new installed travertine
floor is just finished today and looks beautiful. It has chiseled
edges with grout filled all over in a bone color. We did see a finished
home with the same material before purchasing it a month ago.
I was skeptical at first because of its porosity, but was assured
by the store owner (manufacturer from Turkey) that if properly sealed
2 to 3 times, nothing would go through. So, of course this was reinterated
to our installers (recommended contractors) who just finished the
floor 4 hours ago. They knew I wanted to test a sample area with a
little bit of coffee - which I just did (yes, the floor was dry at
this time), and to my great surprise, the | |
