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Ask any question, share your knowledge,
or offer your services!
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| Q
5491: I work with a stone /restoration trading firm in Texas and have a
need to find the correct procedure, materials and equipment for cleaning,
polishing, and sealing limestone. This is part of bathroom refurbishment
where the vanity and other areas have limestone surfaces. Please reply with
information. Thank you. Tim, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Tim This is way too much to answer in an email. If you are truly interested
in learning about this, then you need to look into the stone restoration
classes offered through several organizations. I would recommend getting
in touch with Maurizio who is one of the experts on this forum. and he can
point you in the right direction.Good luck, JVC |
| R2:
Dear
Tim: I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee
involved (as you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do
you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
|
| Q
5490: Can
I put limestone on my shower walls? I rinse hair color off my hair in the
shower and am concerned about staining. Thank, Kathy,
July 28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Yes, you should be concerned with limestone. Consider tumbled
marble or hone-finished marble instead. Same look, different "animal".
And don't forget to get the proper intelligence about stone care! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q 5489:
We manufacture
and supply direct to our customers, stone fireplaces using smooth finished
sandstone and some limestones. However, on occasions we have a problem with
mortar in the joints causing staining to the surrounding stones. this is
worse when limestone is used. The mortar employed is 5 parts yellow sand
/ 1 part Portland cement.Do you know any alternative mixes that would be
more suitable? Thankyou, Bob, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
I don't have a definative answer for you but a few things that may help.
The affected areas should be cleaned with a a wet cloth and lots of water
imediatly after application. Check the type of limestone you are using the
is tremendous disaprity between limestones from diferant locations and some
unsuitable for this use. I Pennsylvania we have a Chathedral with a great
deal of limestone ornamentation gargoyles ets.All the limestone from Kentucy
is falling apart fromthe acid rain while the Indiana limestone is fine.
Perhaps the cement you are using is either too wet or setting too fast.
Lime will slow the reaction, going three parts of sand to one portland would
be a more proper but I would recomend three parts sand to one lime and one
portland.I would also check your water and sand sources as minerals in these
components can easily leech onto the stone. This is a very likely suspect.If
you would like to describe the type of stains in more detail you can contact
me off list at I hope this helps |
| Q 5488:
I purchased
a 6 foot by 2 foot piece of limestone which is a consistent 21/4" thick
throughout from a local Quarry in middle Ontario Canada (right at the start
of the Canadian Shield). The Quarry cut it down to 5 feet in length with
a diamond blade saw. They indicated that there was a way to transform the
cut ends into a more natural look by heating the end with a blow torch and
that it would flake off. I have tried this to the point where the stone
was a bright red, but have only seen one or two little flakes pop off. Is
there a more effective way to flake the ends? If I were to use a small chisel
after heating the limestone would this be effective, yet reduce the risk
of cracking the stone? It is to be used as a fireplace hearth about a 1
1/2 off the ground. Thanks for any help. John in,
July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John: It seems to me that they "forgot" to tello you that
the flaming of stone is done with a high-power torch alternating the flaming
with a rush of cold water that's dispensed by a garden hose let running
all the time. In other words, you hold the torch with one hand and the running
hose with the other. You flame for a few seconds, then you hose, then you
flame, etc. Roughing up the surface would help, too. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5487: I
have been carving petroglyphs into limestone, but I recently bought a large
quantity of slab marble. It had marks from quarry cutting that I have sanded
out. But now, before engraving the petroglyphs, I want to polish it. What
can you provide that would bring the marble up to a quality shine?Thanks
for any help you can provide.John Davies, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John Davis: Sure, no problem! All you have to do is attend one of my
classes on stone refinishing. To find out about schedules and fee, gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There's a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help. What's
more I will even tell you how to get your money back! What more do you want
from me? :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5486:
I have a question
re:my kitchen limestone counter's if you please. They have been installed
for about 6 weeks now. My obsessive husband has sealed the counters at least
7 times already.( I think we're going to go thru a two year supply in 3months!
) Anyhow, I have noticed some areas that are "dry patchy" looking
. It almost looks like a water, like you might see under a glass of water.
What is happening ? And is there any way to help prevent these? I have been
very attentive to these counters- so I'm perplexed as to what is producing
these issues. By the way I have enjoyed reading your sense of humor in your
replys! Take care and thanks for your input. C, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear C.: Well, one thing is for sure: your limestone countertop will never
get stained! Now, about the "dry patchy looking water stains",
it's a totally different story. They are acid etchings, can't be prevented
with no sealer, and are the very reason why one does NOT want limestone
or any other calcite-based stone in the kitchen! Even my maintenance guidelines
won't help you much, sorry. And, BTW, don't forget to send a deeply heartfelt
thank you note to the dealer who told you that's OK to use limestone in
the kitchen, "just seal it!" … Yeah, right! Ciaop and good
luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert panelist, USA |
| R2:
If the sealer you are using is a penetrating sealer,
it should be applied only in thin coats. If you have a thicker spot it should
be wiped up before it has a chance to dry. It's possible that these patches
are sealer build-up. Try putting more of the same sealer on these patches
to dissolve the build-up and then it should wipe right off. LWW |
| Q 5485:
Too bad I did
not find your site before installing limestone for my entire downstairs
of my townhouse. It seems to be very porous and absorbs dirt.For example
after a cleaning and someone walks over the floor you can see their footprints.
I have no idea what type of limestone it is.It is a light beige/off white
color. What should I do to prevent the hassle? Regards, Matthew, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Matthew: You're right, it's just too bad! It sure seems a weird
one all right! Did you have the floor sealed professionally with a good-quality
impregnator/sealer (like my MB-4: see side bar menu of this very page at:
Maurizio's products)? That could help minimizing your problem. Ciao and
good luck,Maurizio Bertoli, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5484: We
have installed french limestone throughout our bathroom and shower area.
The shower area shows some white film from soapy products. How can we remove
those? (is a brush with a abrasive product like "Barkeeper's Friend"
Ok.) What is a good product to seal the limestone, it has been a year since
the shower has been sealed. Axel July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alex: Yes, and a product of mine, MB-3 is "your man"! You
can access the short version of my maintenance guidelines on the side bar
menu of this very page, but if you want the "real deal" (the complete
version of the guidelines, that is) gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I
promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5483: Two
years ago, we installed 12" square Jerusalem Gold limestone as the
surround for our jacuzzi. Much water accumulates at the tub line and water
has crept behind the tiles as the caulking has softened and broken down.
Needless to say, mildew has grown. After the tub was re-grouted and re-caulked
a few months ago and the Limestone tiles sealed, the mildew started not
only growing through the new caulk but also started growing up through the
veining in the limestone. Yuck! We now dry the tub after we use it, but
we want to get the mildew stain out of our beautiful stone and stop it from
growing again. We heard that we need to remove the sealer on the face of
the tile before using Stone Quest or mildew poltice powder to lift out the
mildew. Can you please give us some professional advice as to how to proceed?
Many thanks, CB, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear CB: Well, now you know how "important" it is to seal stone!
:) The impregnator/sealer you applied is slowing down the migration of moisture
from the bottom of the tiles to their surface giving it enough time to grow
"things"! Regardless, my friend, unless you will radically solve
the problem of the water going under your tiles, you will always have …
well, a problem! :) And all the best cleaners and sealers and what-have-you
in the world (including mine!) will only be a temporary "band-aid."
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5482:We
recently bought a 40 yr. old home with a limestone fireplace. How do I clean
the stone? susie, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susie: I have a product in my line, namely MB-9, that will do the perfect
job for you! Well, almost … you will also need a medium-bristle laundry-type
brush and plenty of elbow-grease! :) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q 5481:
I am trying
to decide between a limestone or travertine kitchen floor. If the floor
is sealed will it be a problem? Any feedback would be appreciated.
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
While
I must honestly admit that I've seen several successful installations of
limestone tiles (regardless of the room they were installed in) I also saw
enough problems (with no solution) involving limestone to make me conclude
that's not worth the risk considering it. Travertine is more suitable, providing
that it has a honed-finish (NOT polished) and that you learn how to take
proper care of it. Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at:
info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every
single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to
get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| |
| Q 5479:
I purchased
a large vase in Taipei, Taiwan in 1980, which the store owner called, "rose-fossil
stone". It's about 20 inches high and weighs about 8-10 pounds. It
is a beautiful, glossy, deep rose marbled stone, with huge amounts of deep
green jade, along with a light-colored vein. The deep rose and jade dominate
about 99% of this piece, which is translucent. I was told this stone was
only quarried in Taiwan, and that this stone was pretty rare around the
world. What is this stone called, and what is this vase worth? I paid $350.00
U.S., as I bartered down from $750.00. Thank you. Jack, New Jersey.
July 28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jack: What stone it is I don't know. How much is the vase worth? Whatever
you paid for and whatever the next guy who will purchase one is going to
pay for! :) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5478:
We are in the
processing of gutting our dining room and turning it into a kitchen. We
are down to the last decision.. countertops. I do not like granite, marble
or corian and would like to use soapstone. When I started going to quarries,
I discovered a slab of limestone that I really liked (Pietra Cordoza from
italy). The salesman told me that it is much more functional than soapstone,
i.e. stains less and is denser. Can somebody tell me the pros and cons of
each? I live in nj and it is hard to find soapstone in the surrounding area.
thanks ellen, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Ellen, Did your salesman also tell you that the limestone being a calcite
based stone will chemically react with anything acidic. Your new kitchen
will be full of those. Anything fromfruit juice to vinegar will etch the
limestone and eat away at the polished surface. Now if you can live with
that, then you can enjoy a limestone counter. Your salesman also gave you
false information about soapstone. It is much denser than limestone, therefore
it does not absorb liquids nearly as fast, and it does not chemically react
with acids. Down side, it is softer than limestone (mineral talc compared
to the mineral calcite), but then a knife will scratch both of these stones.There
are soapstone quarries not far from you,. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Okay, limestone from around here is NOT denser and less stainable. Maybe
there's some place in the world but I'm not aware of it. Limestone is composed
of small shells from dead sea animals. There is air between these shells
which leads to porosity. Soapstone is very heat and chemical resistant.
This is why it has been used for centuries on fireplaces, counter tops and
laboratory tables. Granite would be less scratchable but soapstone mends
easily.Good luck, Shane, Smith |
| Q 5477:
Can you please tell me, does imperial red granite countertop need to be
sealed or treated with anything to avoid damage? I do not trust the installer
because when I asked him he first said " well it wouldn't hurt"
and then said " well it's a dark enough color that it shouldn't matter
one way or the other." I just looked at him with mouth agape but figured
there was nothing more I should ask of him. Please can you help me? Also,
what should I clean them with day to day? Is there something I can mix at
home or must I purchase a specialty product. Whatever I need to do I will
do. I just need some knowledgeable answers. Thank you so much. Happy Thanksgiving
to you! Renee' July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5476:
We have a new kitchen with a gorgeous piece
of Labrador Antique stone countertop and island top. The 9' x 3' island
has a zigzag shape and 3/4 of the back side (9' side) has approximately
fifteen inches overhanging the cabinets for stools underneath. We just noticed
a hairline fissure at the edge, extending in about 5 inches. The fissure
is apparent to the touch on top, but no noticeable crack is visible underneath.
Because this granite is full of inclusions,you cannot readily notice it.
Should we have the installer insert a rod underneath? They explained (when
the counter was installed 6 mos. ago)that they sometimes cut a groove in
the underside of somes stone and epoxy in a rod to stabilze it. This is
generally only necessary for veiny marble when used as a countertop overhanging
an island. Also, this island top rests on a base of cabinet draws for the
first 2 feet of length, then only has the back panel (1 1/4" thick)
of the island underside to rest on for another 2 feet (undercounter fridge
installed there)before resting on the remaining cabinets. We have a bracket
attached to the cabinet at the far corner, extending 2" from the edge
where the overhang is almost 19". My husband noticed that the silicone
applied underneath lets some light in so he wonders if more shims should
be installed to close the gaps. Finally, is Labrador Antique more prone
to chips/scratches/cracks than other stone? We have found a cuple of "chips"
like small whitish dots on the surface. We don't cut on it and are generally
very careful with it. Thanks for any advice you have! Lepkowsi, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lepkowsi: Where there are stress points, rodding granite is a MUST,
not an option. Second, the industry standards (wow, at least there's one!)
about the over-hang of granite specifies that the maximum over-hang that
does not need to be supported with proper brackets (or corbels) is 10"
for 3cm. (1 ¼") stock, and 8" for its 2 cm. (3/4")
counterpart. The bracket must be installed at a distance of 18" from
one another, should extend almost to the edge of the countertop and in full
contact.Get your fabricator's butt back on the job and demand that they
finish it right. Rodding is too late now, but the brackets (or the corbels)
must be set right and soon. I would stop using that area of your countertop
until the job is done, if I were you. I kid you not! Labrador Antique is
indeed more prone than certain other mercantile granites to chipping and
natural fissures. It much depends on the grading of the slab, though. Now,
remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell
me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner,
my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Don't
become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5475:
Hi! We have travertine floors throughout our Florida home. Someone said
that a mixture of vinegar and water was the best way to clean them. Do you
agree? How much white vinegar should I use, if this is a good way to wash
them. Can I polish our marble vanity tops? What can I use? Thanks, Cindy,
July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Cindy: If you own a machine gun, don't hesitate to shoot the whole magazine
into the body of the idiot who told you to use water and vinegar. Not only
won't you end up in jail, but I will personally see to it that you get deservedly
rewarded with a medal!! Just take a quick peak at the short version of my
maintenance guidelines in the side bar menu of this very page. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q 5473:
I have a black marble fireplace that some
one tried to polish with a stone polish and left a white haze when finished.
I tried cleaning but the haze doesn't come out. It goes away when wet but
comes back when dry. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Ken, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Keri: It looks to me that the "stone polish" (or whatever
it was) etched the surface of your marble. To do the repair correctly you
would need the services of a poven stone restoration contractor. However,
if you're not too concerned about the "perfect" (and quite expensive!)
job, you could settle with the application of good-quality stone color enhancer.
Gimme a holler at: Maurizo@findstone.com and I'll point you in the right
direction. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5472:
I've purchased 12x12 Uba Tuba tiles to install
around my fireplace as a surround and hearth. I want to install over the
existing brick which is painted white. I purchased the Granite and Stone
adhesive from Home Depot for green and black tiles. Can I just install over
the painted surface (it is sound) or do I need to etch/sand first? Jackie,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jackie: It would be chancy at best. I would acid etch first if I were
you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5471:
My son carved a polar bear from soap stone
in grade 3 and it turned out very well. It is 5 inches long, 2.5 inches
tall and 1.5 inches wide. It is my favourite piece of art. It has fallen
and broken into two pieces along what appears to be a "fault"
in the stone across its shoulder area. Any suggenstions of how it can be
put back to gether. Thanks. BPL, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear BPL: Epoxy glue would be the best, but it's hard to get and nasty to
handle. Considering the light duty of a figurine, I would settle for regular
household cement. At the end of the job, have your son dust off his good
ol' tools and remove the excess of the glue. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5470:
Our installer just finished a marble tile
installation on the floor and there are marks all over the floor. He says
it's because it was cheap marble. I've been told by others that it's because
he didn't remove the grout fast enough. What do you think it really is?
Thanks, Helen, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Helen: What the others said. The cost of the stone has nothing to do
with damages like that (or any other damage, for that matter). Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5469:
Hi We build a new house 2 years ago most of
the house has durango tumbled marble stone. The marble was installed on
top of wet bed thats called gyp-crete. About 6 months after we moved in
and noticed cracks in some areas on the floor. The company that install
the gyp-crete said that the reason for the cracks is that the installer
did not use the right thin set. The materials that they recommend is called
hydroment ultra set made by bostik,inc. Our question is if the house is
already settled, will the cracks continue to grow, and can we repair the
cracks with out replacing the floor. Most of the cracks are minor and not
so visible, but some are as long as 10 feet. Simon, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Simon: Your guess is as good as mine. To tell you the truth, I
don't even believe what the gyp-crete people told you. Repair them? Maybe.
Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration company and let them guide you
on that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5468:
My sandstone hearth has many different types
of stains. Coffee and/or some type of beverage was spilt on the one corner.
There is also evidence of crayon/marker. I have read your site and feel
the 30/40 volume HP and baby powder would be the best choice in trying to
clean. Is this correct, or should I try the 3 to 1 water/bleach also. If
I do consider using stain or a sealant what do you suggest? Thank you, Jeanie,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeanie: If they are inorganic stains, the Hydrogen Peroxide is more
effective than bleach. About staining the stone, I don't know much about
it, other that I don't like the idea. About a sealing job with a good-quality
impregnator for stone, it sounds like an excellent idea. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5467:
What adhesive should I use to put marble or
granite down as interior flooring in kitchen / bathroom, and for kitchen
splashbacks? They are large tiles. Do they need any other preparation other
than adhesive? (eg sealant?), Kat,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kat: Unless you're dealing with green marble, you don't want to use
any adhesive. Go with latex modified white thin-set. Keep a grout gap of
1/16" and use wall-type grout only. The sealing should be performed
only IF the stone needs to be sealed, and at least a couple of weeks after
installation. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely
to get good information about it from your dealer. Don't become another
statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind
document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will
also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
Q 5466:
We just built a new house and have Santa Cecilia
granite counter tops in our kitchen. Although we love the look, the granite
has pits in it and it's not smooth like glass. After wiping it down it still
feels a bit gritty. we've tried cleaning with a sponge and damp paper towels,
but nothing totally cears the grit away. It's almost like grit gets stuck
in the pits and tiny crevices. Anything we should be doing? will sealing
it prevent this? As a result of my husband and myself not being totally
satisfied with the smoothness of our new granite, I did a search on the
wed and found your website. I only wish I new about it before we installed
our granite. Your website has been extremely helpful in understanding the
different properties of granite. For instance I never knew that most granites
on the market are not "true" granites. Anyway, although the Santa
Cecilia ganite we have in
our kitchen is absolutley beautiful, the pitting and the flaking bother
me. Any suggestions? Thank you for your help, Lisa, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: No solution, sorry. When you have a stone that does that (usually
orthogneiss), there's nothing that can be done. In most instances Santa
Cecilia does not do that, but in a few case it does. The application of
a sealer for stone - which in consideration of your particular stone should
have been done already and more than once - will do you no good. Even my
maintenance guidelines won't help much. I would try to work thing out with
your fabricator. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5464:
I have installed Impala Black Granite on my
kitchen counters and backsplash. Based on your advice (and a 3 hour lemon
test!), I told them not to seal it. They agreed, but made me sign a waiver!
Anyway, what is the best way to maintain my stone? Barry, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
I would LOVE to get to read that waiver! What on earth did they make you
wave away?! :) You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do
carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5463:
I am planning on tiling a couple of counter
tops with 12 inch Tropic Brown tiles using Hardi-backer and possibly their
mastic. I have done ceramic tile before and I have a contractor grade tile
saw. I could not find any books on the subject at Amazon.com so I am writing
you to find out what you have and what it costs. One issue for me is dealing
with the edge that shows. I hear that bullnoseing is hard to do well. I
was thinking about just taking a 45 angle off the edge with my angle grinder
in a sliding jig. I have about 30 edges to do and the tile store wants about
$6 per edge. I am not cheep, it's just that I another kitchen lined up and
it all adds up. Jon, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Yup, I know what you have to get! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be
told), but I'll be glad to help. What's more I will even tell you how to
get all of your money back! What more do you want from me? :-)Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5460:
I have a project I am going to try for some
shelves at my house. I was wondering what the best technique would be for
drilling 1/2" diameter holes, about 5-7 inches into the edge of 1-1/2"
thick sandstone slabs. I am going to use Colorado and Arizona sandstone
acquired from my local landscaping, stone supply as well as stone collected.
I have lots of experience welding and wooodworking, but none with stone.
I have a drill press, air compressor, access to sandblasters, etc. Thanks
for your time. Bob, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
There are special drills for drilling stone whithout
heating it up and thereby cracking it. They are hollow diamond bits with
a interior valve connected to a small hose that is run to a water source.
If you do not have acces to these drill at a slow speed with a air powered
drill to avoid electric shock from the water that you must keep on the stone
and stop frequently to apply water to the interior of the hole. You must
keep the bit from heating up the stone, Richard |
| Q 5459:
I just put crab orchard stone in front of
my fireplace as a hearth. Naturally, when cleaning ash out of the fireplace
and in general use, there'll be some soot and wood that might dirty the
stone. Otherwise, I wouldn't expect anything to be spilled on the stone
or otherwise stain it. Do you think I should apply a sealer, or just clean
it periodically as needed with a mild detergent? Edward, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
I have Crab Orchard floors and I clean them with a
scrubrush and water sometimes I use a little murphys oil this seems to work
fine. Beautiful stone, Richard |
| Q 5457:
I am deciding between Impala Black and Baltic
Brown for my kitchen countertop. Is one better than the other? Are they
true granites? I am leaning toward Impala Black. Will Implala Black look
good with maple cabinets and oak hardwood floors? Help! And what is all
this talk about to seal or not to seal? Any comments will be appreciated.
Kelli, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelly: Please, pretty please, leave me out of the decorating part of
the picture, will you! About the stone you mention, Baltic Brown is a true
granite from Finland, while Black Impala is a Gabbrop from South Africa.
They are both excellent stones, but I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I
did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does
carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have me beside you while
you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be glad you did. What's
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also
ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| |
| Q 5455:
I hired a company in Florida "Gasper
Superior Flooring" to install Polished Marble 12x12 tiles, to make
along story short, the installer used only mastic about 1/4 inch on the
floor and the walls. The tiles on the floor and walls area all uneven, so
much that Gasper Superior Flooring tried to sand them down (imagine the
mess and the dust) and even removed 6 of tiles from the floor, replacing
them with new ones that after installed with 1/4 inch of mastic! are also
uneven and have now cracked. Could you be so kind as to inform me of the
proper way to install marble tiles? In the past I had Saturnia Floors installed
and the installer used a thick layer of mortar and the tiles stayed in place.
The worse part is that this company did 2 bathrooms in my home and both
of them look horrible, most tiles stick out and not one stayed in place,
all of the tiles seemed to have slid, shift or stick out considerably.Williams,
July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Williams: if memory serves me right, this is not the first time that
someone posts a complaint about the same company. It looks like "Michelangelo"
is quite active, lately! Look, I understand your anger, but to the best
of my knowledge there are courtrooms in Florida, too! Small claims and/or
Special Civil Part cases are handled rather swiftly, and you don't even
need a lawyer. Get pictures of the mess, get hold of a reputable installer
(the one that will be redoing the job) to take along with you, and get "Michelangelo"'s
butt in court! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5452: I just had 80 linear
feet of bronzino/black galaxy installed. There are many divets and what
looks like water marks in the granite. I went to European granite in Farmingdale
Long Island and tagged it myself. After the granite was templated and delivered
it was not the one I had chosen. I know this for a fact because the granite
I had chosen had blue in it. Hope this won't happen to anyone else. I spent
over 10,000 dollars and even had the ogee edge put on which doesn't even
have the same shine as the top of the granite surface. I never even imagined
that they would switch the two slabs I had ordered. thank you for hearing
me out. Thanks, Pat, July 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pat: Going by your story, it looks like "Michelangelo" struck
again! What you indicate as "watermark" are probably damages created
by acidic liquids on the impregnator sealer that they applied on the stone
believing that's granite, since black galaxy should not be sealed. About
the alleged switching of the slab, it goes to prove the futility (in most
cases) of the homeowner going out and doing the selection. You should have
gotten my literature on how to shop for a granite countertop. It's too late
now, but I do believe that at least I have the solution for your "watermarks"
problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with
me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad
to help. What's more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back!
What more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q 5448: I
am interested in polishing a softball size of green granite I found in Alaska.
My 17 year old daughter died in a car accident last year and I am wanting
to polish this stone and engrave it with a star in her memory, but I am
having a difficult time finding good, but easy directions. Any ideas on
how to do this or where to find info? I own a good Dremel and was hoping
I could accomplish this with that tool and not many other expensive items.
Thank you so much for your time! Sharon, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon: You will not be able to do anything about polishing your stone,
alas, no matter how handy you are. It would be real difficult for a professional
due to the hardness of the stone and its random shape. However, I am so
moved by your story that – if you trust me that I won’t lose your
stone, or forget about it – I’d like you to send it to me, and
I’ll do my best, if possible, to polish it myself at no charge. You
will only have to take care of the engraving. Vinay, under the circumstances
you will let this lady get in touch directly with me without any “connection”
fee, won’t you? Thank you. Maurizio, not an Expert panelist on this
occasion: just a fellow human being, USA |
| Q 5442: I saw your posting
on a website and noticed you have bianco catalina granite for your countertop.
Can you tell me what color grout you went with and what color flooring.
We love the granite selection but aren't sure how to match it. Thank you,
Jennifer, July 23, Reply
|
| R1:
It sounds like you have a non-breathable sealer that is trapping moisture
between sealer and slate. Strip with Sealant and Adhesive Reover and re-seal
with one of their sealers. Different sealers will give you different looks.
Graeme the slate man |
| Q 5439: I
want to resurface my non-working fireplace with small river rock. How would
I do this. I saw it on a home improvement show, but they didn't give any
details and there is no info on their website. HELP! rgg, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Laying riverstone is very tricky due to the smooth and round surface.surface
I would not suggest it for the unexpieranced however if you want to try
it try a coarse sand only two parts to one portland cement, mix it a little
water but keep it very very dry and apply enough to keep the stone initailly
in place when it is almost dry scrape or wire brush the joint back exsposing
as much stone as possible without allowing the stone to move. Clean the
area around the joint with a wet clothe just before it is dry, Richard |
| Q 5425: Kindly
advise me if it is wise to tile my kitchen and toilet with Moca limestone.
Thank you for your attention. Regards, Cheng, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cheng, I would stay away from Limestone in the
kithcen it is soft, scratches and stains very easily |
| Q 5421:
I cost is no object, what is the easiest stone
to maintain in the shower? Rose, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Tile made of Nephrite Jade is extremly hard and stain resistant it is superior
to grantie and takes a beautiful polish, Richard |
Q 5412: I
believe the name of my granite is Giallo Fiorito-is this a good granite
for kitchen counters? 2. I have not tried the lemon juice test yet as I
just found your website but, when I wipe the counter the granite turns darker
as I wipe it. Does that mean that my granite is very porous and needs sealing?
3. If so, how do I seal it?
4. My installer installed my under mount sink to the granite with epoxy
on small pieces of wood without clips. Is that o.k.?
5. I believe that I have a grease stain in the granite. How can I get rid
of it and make sure it doesn't happen again? Thank you, Robin, July
22, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Robin: You mean to tell me that your fabricator delivered your Giallo
Fiorito countertop without sealing it?! … WOW! Call them back and demand
that they finish the job they got paid for! Keep in mind that due to the
high degree of absorbency of the stone, they will have to come back two,
thre times or better, until the sealing job is finished. Once they're there,
you will also demand that they remove the oil stain for you, before they
start the sealing job. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often
neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer,
especially in consideration of the stunt they reportedly tried to pull on
you! Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I
promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Giallo Fiorito is a nice material that is many times resined at the factory.
In its unresined state it requires several coats of an impregnating sealer.
resined maybe one or two.
2)
Yes, it needs more impregnating sealer.
3)
Clean the tops thoroughly and then follow the manufacturers instructions,
it is quite easy to do.
4)
Though I prefer more support you probably won't have a problem, just don't
load the sink to the brim with water!!
5)
You need to use a poultice. There are instructions for that oin this website
as well. Best
regards, Steven
|
R3:
Robin,
Fiorito is a medium density Brazilian granite. If a wet rag darkens it,
it has not been sealed. Buy a petroleum based sealer [not water based],
wipe it on, let it dry a few minutes, then wipe off the residue. It should
last 5 years or so. Check a home center or a tile business for a sealer.
Everybody installs sinks differently. My guess is that your installer is
content with this method. I'll guarantee you he wants no 'call backs', so
he'll go with something that has worked for him.
There are a number of products that will extricate stains. Your installer
should know. The general idea is as follows: Most products come in a one
gallon bucket. The material is white and about the consistency of flour
dough. You add water, mix it to thin it a bit. You then place this 'mud
pie' over the stain. Cover it with plastic visqueen, then tape the edges
to the countertop with duct tape. This prevents air from drying the mixture
from the top. As it dries from the bottom up, the stain is removed. [Note-
sometimes it may take as many as 3 applications to remove the entire stain]
It usually takes from 24-48 hours to fully dry. After the stain is gone,
reseal it and forget it. Hope this helps, Boyd |
| Q 5392: We
are remodelling our kitchen. I am very interested in the UBA TUBA, BLUE
PEARL, EMRALD PEARL and MORIAM/MOHAIM BAHIA(blackish grey) granites for
the kitchen countertops. Which of these would be more durable, less absorbent,
stain resistent? Which of these are true granites? I am aware of your lemon
test. Please advice what should I install on the kithcen floors - marble
or ceramic tiles. I donot like travertines, slates, Narayan,
July 22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Narayan: I will start from the end. Marble in a kitchen floor is OK
only if hone-finished. Should you decide to have tiles instead, porcelain
is better than ceramic. Besides, if you like the look of polished marble,
there are available porcelain tiles that are hard to tell apart from the
real thing, without the aggravations, of course! About your countertop,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic!Ciao and good
luck, |
| Q 5381: I
am trying to find a solvent to clean headstones and make the white in the
letters come out white. Do you have any ideas. Please advise ASAP,
July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
In a word, BLEACH. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Was
the lettering originally white, or were they painted in black? Let me know.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. |
| Q 5380: I
recently acquired a large quantity of sandstone scraps one quarter to three
quarter inch in thickness. I would like to use it to cover my existing concrete
patio. It is about 16 yrs old and has some cracks that I have filled with
liquid concrete patch. How do I prepare the concrete and what is best material
for setting the so that they are relatively even on top. The patio has good
drainage toward the lawn. Steve, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
You could try calling: 1-800-DIALGOD! That would work! :) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio |
| R2:
The best way to get a traight job that allows flow to your agarden area
is to run a double masons line down each side at the proper pitch and at
the hieght you want for your finished top of stone . attach another line
to the two inside lines then lay your stone under this line as you work
slide this line down your two inside likesuintil you get to the end of the
job. always stay a hair under the lines so yo do not raise it. It is a painstaking
job with such small stones but doable, Richard |
| Q 5377: I
have an outside wall (wood) that IO plan to cover with Austin Limestone.
What are the guidelines for installing this material. I am a handy do-yourselfer
but have no experience in masonry work. Thanks Tom, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
The wood should be covered with a water proofing material.(roofing felt
will work ), and an adequate number of wall tiesmust be used. Of course,
a foundation for the stone is a must (brick ledge). If possible, talk with
a local stone mason about the mortar mix, etc, or get a book on masonry
walls. If you are in the Austin TX area, get ahold of me directly through
this website, and I will be glad to help you out. Good luck, JVC, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5376: I
have a dirty white limestone fireplace in my living room. As part of a remodel
project, I would like to change the color to something more earthy and neutral.
Is there a way to "stain" or paint in a semi-transparent way to
give the illusion of a darker, different colored, stone with organic variations?
Who should I call if I can't do it myself, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
The answer is it depends. If the stone is one of the
soft, porous limestones, it is possible to change it's appearance somewhat
by staining it. Clients of mine have used solutions of tea, coffee, tobacco
juice, etc to darken the Cordova or Texas crème limestone. I suspect
a wood stain would also work. However, it is of the utmost importance for
you to test any stain on an inconspicuous area of the fireplace, or even
better on a scrap of the stone. Did the masons leave any leftover pieces
in your yard? or can you get a piece or two of the same stone. This is so
you will know exactly what the stain will do to your stone before applying
it to what is probably a focal point in the room. Good luck, JVC |
| Q 5375: I
am wanting to attach small stone angel to the base of a child's tombstone.
What type of adhesive will I need to use? Carylon, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Carolyn: Epoxy glue for outdoors. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| R2:
Dear Caroyln, Mario is as usually right about epoxy
but if this is too difficult for you liquid nail , found in caulk tubes
can be used with a caulk gun it will also give you a permanent repair apply
to the base and bottom of the angel a thin coat then press them together
stay a hair back fromt he ustside edge so you wil not get any overflow but
if you do remove it while soft with a putty knife, Richard |
| Q 5374: We
want pour a concrete patio, then lay flamed granite tile on it. I read that
it is important that the concrete be cured before laying the granite, or
the granite would soak up moisture and minerals from the concrete, which
would stain it. How long would a 4" thick concrete slab need to dry
before it would be safe to install granite tile? Debbie, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Debbie: How often is it going to rain, and how hard, after you pour
your concrete slab? If you can answer that for me, then I'll tell you how
long you'll have to wait! :) If you live in the desert, a couple of weeks
should do. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5373: We
just had Salome light grey granite counters installed, and our so-called
experience installers used liquid nails as an adhesive. The day after, pale
grey stains leached through the granite. We are horrified. We were told
they will go away, and they have faded a little bit. It has now bee 5 days
and I can still see them. Is this the liquid nails? Will it go away, or
should we have it all ripped out and replaced?-Tomd, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Tom: WOW! Liquid nail, huh! … And "Michelangelo" strikes
again! I highly doubt that they will ever disappear completely, sorry. You
should have gotten my article about shopping around for a granite kitchen
countertop. Too late now! But it's not too late (and never too early!) to
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. Expert Panelist |
| Q 5372:
I am looking for a stone to replace old coping on my in ground swimming
pool. My pool refurbisher is recommending a travertine. The stone will go
around the top edge of the pool and be mortared in place. Is this a good
idea? Will travertine blister and crack with cold winters? Our winters get
to 10 degrees F below 0. What type of stone is economical and available
for swimming pool coping in the North East region of the US. I do not like
rough edges, so fieldstone is out the the question. Sue, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sue: Why don't you move to Florida or somethin'! :) Joke aside I'll
go along with your pool refurbisher. Travertine (honed and unfilled) it's
an excellent choice. I highly recommend ¾" stock, though. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5371: I
am looking at purchasing Beaumaniere Limestone for use in my bathrooms.
Reading this site has made me very Leary. I really like the look of limestone
and was set on putting it in my shower, on the floor, and some of the wall.
I understand that some limestones are not as dense as others. Do you have
an opinion about Beaumaniere? And is there a way to test it when I receive
a sample? Thanks, Jim, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jim: Sorry, but I'm not a limestone man. You can get the same look
of limestone with hone-finished marble and limit taking your chances when
you feel like dropping a couple of bills at the casino! :)Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about
it from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert |
| Q 5370:
I am remodeling
my kitchen. My cabinets are going to be an autumn coffee on cherry and the
island is going to be a moss color. I am thinking about using pine green
granite for counter tops. Is this a good choice for granite as far as durability
and practical use? Any advice would be great. I am also redoing the baths.
For the master bath, I am concerned with the h maintenance of marble or
limestone? I have been told to use honed marble. What do you think? Why
not tile, isn't it easier to clean? July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic!As far as you
question about limestone and marble in your bathroom is concerned, polished
or honed does not make much of a difference maintenance-wise, unless the
hone-finish is totally flat - which is never the case. The right intelligence
about proper maintenance procedures will work much better than a simple
sentence! :)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5369:
We're buying
a home with a rough-faced Georgia marble fireplace. The stone is beautiful
when wet (discovered when I was scrubbing off the old grime). When it is
dry, you don't see and can't appreciate the colors. I would like to know
if there is something I can spray on it to keep the color showing without
worrying about what heat may do when the fireplace is in use? Thanks!! Nancy,
July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nancy: Yes, there is. A good quality stone color enhancer is "your
man"! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5368: I
have Ubatuba counter tops. Is this type of stone a candidate to seal? Our
installer told us to use antibacterial windex for day to day cleaning and
lemon pledge for day to day shine. It seems to work. Am I doing harm to
my "granite"? Thanks for any advise. Norm, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Norm: You don't want to ask me!! :) Just ask your fabricator how much
testing he has conducted with those two particular products, what type of
testing, and on how many different "granites" (assuming that he
knows, for instance, that Ubatuba and most other stones he sells as granite
are not granite by a long shot!) before recommending them. If the answers
are: a couple of years, lab testing, and a couple of hundreds, then they
must be OK. If not … well, you fill the blanks and take your chances!
You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind
document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will
also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5365: I
just had a granite counter installed in my New Jersey Home. I went with
Hawaiian Green. I love the look of the stone, but when the light shines
on it and/or when you look at it from an angle you can see a lot of what
looks like scratch marks. I can't feel anything when I run the palm of my
hand over it, but if I use my fingernails I can feel an indentation. Should
I be concerned about the quality of this stone? Should it be like that?
Will it get worse? Is there anything I can do to reduce the noticeability
of the marks? It really bothers me. I was told by the installer that it
is stone and this type slab has more pronounced marks like this. He assured
me it is not less in quality and will not get worse. Was I given an inferior
product? Joe, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: "Hawaiian green", huh!… Never heard of it! But,
hey, there's always a first time for everything, isn't there? That said,
without actually seeing the stone, only a fool would venture an assessment
of these "mysterious" scratch patterns. Where are you in NJ? Maybe
I could take a look at your slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5364: We
have water stains on recently installed marble countertops in master bath.
How can we get rid of them? There also seems to be a spot in the marble
that is "flat,"......just doesn't shine. Anything we can do about
that? Thanks much, MK, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear MK: water does not stain marble. Never did, never
will! What you have are etch marks (they do like water spots, don't they!),
which are actual surface damages. I do believe I have the solution to your
problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with
me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad
to help. What's more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back!
What more do you want from me? :-) About the "flat" spot you're
reporting, without seeing it I don't know. It could be a natural "dead"
spot, but then again, it could not. The solution that I have in mind for
your "water stains" will take care of that, too, if it's not a
natural flaw in the stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5363: I
am remodeling my master bathroom and truly love the look of tumbled marble.
Many have warned against it. Is this a good choice for floors, showers,
walls? Will the holes be filled in upon installation and if so, will this
change the look of the tumbled marble? Will the grout eventually look different
and not as attractive? Does dirt easily accumulate in the holes, with difficulty
in cleaning? In summation, please provide me with the pros and cons of tumbled
marble versus regular marble, granite, porcelain, etc? What do you have
installed in your bathroom!? I appreciate any help and am open to suggestions.
Romina, |
