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ADVICE WANTED!   September 31 , 2004
www.findstone.com   info@findstone.com

Ask any question, share your knowledge, or offer your services!

Q 6967: We just remodeled our kitchen and I chose a honed absolute black granite as my counter top. A friend of mine has it and I have admired it. (I know there is a bit more upkeep with the honed finish....that doesn't bother me.) I
just had it installed and I am finding several problems. The day they installed it, after they left, I noticed some darker circular marks on the top that wouldn't wipe off. Second, there was a circle spot-12" in diameter where it appears duller (like something was laid there and it dulled the finish). Thirdly, the the island piece is a lot grayer than the perimeter stone. (They said it all came from the same slab, but the island is noticeably duller almost like it has a gray film on it.) The edges everywhere are blotchy going from dull black to solid black. And where the seams are there are hand prints that I can't get up.
I called the installer, he came out and said that he couldn't get up the circular marks nor the dull 12" circle spot. He says that the island is duller
because "that's just the way natural stone goes". And as for the hand
prints, which I believe is silicone residue...he wants to think about it. His final comment to me was, "you did know that honed stones are risky when you ordered it."
Wow, I guess I don't know. Is he right? Are these my problems? Or was it not honed correctly? (I did overhear one of the installers say that they had never in the 15 years of business make a honed stone counter before..YIKES). Would you mind e-mailing me back and addressing my problems. They are coming back next week, and I'm afraid I don't have enough expertise to talk smartly about my concerns. Could you give me some responses to each of these problems, if you can. Thank you so much. Becky, sept 21, Reply
R1: Dear Becky: In a nutshell: you don’t have to accept any of the excuses they gave you. Having said that, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6966: My husband and I are installing Jerusalem Gold Tumbled 12 x 12 as flooring for our master bath. We both fell in love with the beautiful colors. However we are at a lost on how to bring the colors out. When they get wet the colors are incredible but as soon as the dry the get opaque. Please advice on what to do or use to bring the colors and brilliance out. My husband thought of asking the contractor working on our crema marfil floor to polish it but it doesn't sound right. We need to finish the bathroom asap, please advice. Irmarie, sept 21, Reply
R1: Dear Irmarie: That’s an easy one! A good-quality stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6 will do the trick for you in no time!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6965: I have installed Limestone in my Bathroom shower walls, grey (dark grey), 24X24 butt joint on diagonal - grout. They are stained - sealed - looks a mess - how do I get it to look uniform? Please advise. Thanks, George, Reply
R1: First of all they need cleaning with some kind of white spirit. Then it might be wise to treat them with paraffin, or oil, or some other kind of liquid grease. Be wary of acid like products to remove calcium-stains on Your taps, or other sorts. They will damage the stone, as it is made up mainly of calcium. SR. Dr. R. Nijenhuis
R2: Smaller tile would have made the shower appear more uniform as a whole, instead you are looking at tile that are almost slab like. They are so massive it is a what you see is what you get application. However, I have had success enhancing tile with a stone enhancer and bringing the tile to more uniformity. It does work over sealed tile. Craig Norberg, Norberry
R3: sand it with 180-220-320-then seal it with tons of silicon stone seal. limestone should not have been used as it is very susceptible to staining and mildew.
Q 6964: About 5 years ago our company installed a ceramic tile floor for one of our customers. Unknown to us, the slab had been treated with a curing agent. 75% of the tile is loose on the floor. We had depositions with our lawyer and the concrete contractor provided us with information on the curing agent and solvent it took to clean the slab with. This information was not available to us at the time we installed the tile. The case seems open and closed, but it's not. We need an expert who has knowledge in this field. Sincerely, Lonnie, Sept 25, Reply
R1: As per details you have provided it seem that the compound which was used to fix the slab may be a brush applied curing agent which when applied to the exposed surface of new concrete creats a thin film over the surface of concrete which is an impervious thin film
in microns thickness which doesnot allow the already added water to evoperate and thus it avoids the necessary of curing the RCC slab after casting . you have not made clear that wether the tiles were laid on RCC salb with a bedding of send or without bedding .. i presume that it was without bedding and the cement mortar/slurry never got any contect with the surface of RCC slab as there is a micro thin impervious film which did not allowed the necesary bonding between the old surface of RCC salb and newly laid Tile ! Can guide you further with necessary documents should you require pls do mail me at Best of luck P H Dave
R2: If your company values your own reputation – you should replace it at your expense. It certainly is not the client’s fault that you did not have the knowledge required to permanently perform this installation. Even if your reputation is worthless – you should still replace the job. John
R3: Hello,with many years experience in the ceramics field i suggest you have a word with Lithofin.They are a very experienced company and can probably
Q 6963: We have just recently had our tile countertops replaced with Absolute Black Granite. The installers had not sealed the granite but it looked like it was wiped down with a greasy substance like paint thinner. He said I should to wipe it down for 72 hours before sealing, which I did. Almost all of it came up with the exception of a few spots that look like streaks. My problem is that there are still streaks on the granite and because it is black you can see them. When I use my finger nail to scratch it off they remove like a glue residue.Is there a easier way to remove this? sept 20, Reply
R1: I really don’t know what’s sitting on your “granite” countertop, but you sure need to get rid of it, since your fabricator didn’t bother doing it. Keep all your windows open, get the pets and everybody out of the house, wear a protective mask and solvent-proof gloves, follow all precautionary directions printed on the can, and remove whatever gunk is sitting on your countertop with a paint stripper based-on Methylene Chloride.

After that you will NOT apply any impregnator/sealer to your countertop – not even my outlandish MB-4! You do NOT want to seal black “granite!”
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6962: My installer told me to use water and a very little amount of soap to clean my peacock green counter tops and not to seal it. Do you agree with this? Also, what is the life of this stone? It is installed on cabinets reinforced with 2x4's. It had to be removed after installing the first time because they were not level. It is now level after reinforcement. Any information you can give me is greatly appreciated.
Thank you. Marilynn, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Marilynn:

I do agree not to seal VP, but I strongly disagree about cleaning it with dish soap. About this issue, the following is the “copy & paste” answer I have prepared for inquiries like yours:
“Let’s start with the glass cleaner issue. First off, how many brands of glass cleaners are available out there? Hundreds! And if you think that they are all formulated the same way, think again! Even what’s probably the most popular one, Windex™, comes in several formulations. Who did the testing on anyone of those chemicals to find out if they are safe on natural stone? … You fill the blanks!
Now, what’s even more important, how many different types of “granite” are available? Again, at least three hundreds and counting! Do you think they are all the same – besides the way they look? Once more, think again! The difference in chemical makeup between the vast array of stones traded as “granite” can be – and it is – huge!
Now, assuming that one particular type of glass cleaner is OK for, say, true geological granite, will it be safe also, on gneiss, or gabbro, or dolerite, or porphyry, through a long list? How do you know what type of “granite” you actually have, beside the name given to you by your fabricator? Do you think they would know? I’ve got news for you: a good 95% of them do NOT. Their stone “education” comes from the invoice of the distributor, or from various “salesmen” who call on them. They actually believe it is ALL granite!
So, how do you feel about taking any chance with a glass cleaner for your daily chore?
As a restoration contractor I did witness my good share of permanent damages (pitting, spalling, etc.) to “granite” due to the use of glass cleaners! They don’t happen right away, but they eventually will, if the combination is “right”! And I don’t want even begin to mention marble!
How about a little dish soap and water? Could that damage “granite”?

No, it wouldn’t, but … think about this:
Try to wash your hands with water and dish soap, then put them under running water and see how long it’ll take for them to rinse properly. To have such a thorough rinsing (which is the only one acceptable) on your countertop, you should be using a garden hose all the time! So, what happens if you decide not to use a garden hose to rinse your countertop? It’s very simple: a very thin soap film will remain on the stone surface, even if you dry it with a towel. At the beginning you won’t be able to notice it, but as you keep “cleaning” your countertop in that way, it will build-up and, within a few months, your beautiful stone won’t be as shiny as it used to be anymore! Assuming that you can figure out what hit it (don’t expect any intelligence from the “genius” who suggested you to use such a home-brewed concoction!), you will have to remove all the soap scum sitting on your top by using a specialized strong chemical, and … start all over again!

Is that what you want?
There are companies out there that invest considerable amount of money to formulate specialty cleaning agents that are safe on all natural stone, and offer them to the market. Why should they do that if any glass cleaner or dish soap could do the job?

You think about it.
The idea of having to buy specialty – and somehow expensive – cleaning products for your valuable natural stone installations may be annoying to a certain extent, but is your best bet if you care about your investment,
It took Mother Nature hundreds of thousands of years to make the things of beauty you proudly have in your home now. There is not one single piece of stone out there that can exactly match any of the stones you have. You have to respect and appreciate that, and not consider your stone like just another commodity. The way I see it, you didn’t actually buy your stone. You adopted it.
You have to consider it as your duty to give it the best care possible.”
As for your question about “the life of this stone,” the last time a checked it didn’t have any life at all: it was as dead as stone!! :-)
Joking aside, it will last forever and then some! The reinforcement idea was a good one indeed.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6961: I just did a counter top with a grayish limestone, and a reddish stone (combo) it's a large mosaic pattern. The stone is not polished at all, it's ruff, pitted, and pretty chalky.
It looks very nice when wet ie. right after I sealed it, but when it dries, it goes back to hazy, and much of the stones natural beauty is lost. Is there a wax, or something I can use to give the stone a wet/polished look permanently, or semi permanently? Thanks, Kirk,
sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Kirk: To get the “wet loolk” you like you should have used a stone color enhancer (like my outlandish MB-6) before the application of the impregnator. A color enhancer must be absorbed by the stone to work, and the presence of the impregnator/sealer may prevent that, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6960: I hosted a small wedding yesterday and had candles on my granite countertop. Unfortunately, wax dripped onto the counter and I have not been able to completely remove it this morning. There are waxy streaks on the counter. Do you have any suggestions? I read through your site this morning but couldn’t find an answer to my problem. Thanks so much for any advice you can offer. Rhonda, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Rhonda: There are products – solvent based – specifically designed to remove candle-wax from hard surfaces. I really don’t know where you can get it, but every church could give you that information.Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6959: My husband and I just selected the "granite" we will use for our kitchen counter tops. It is a dark green/black Uba Tuba from Brazil. We had done some homework ahead of time by reading the many Q/A's on this website and learned that in most cases, Uba Tuba does not need to be sealed. The fabricator we're working with has been working with stone for 20 years, in fact he owns his company and works closely with a custom cabinet maker next door. My husband is a general contractor and has worked with the fabricator and cabinet maker for years in recommending them to his customers. The fabricator says he always seals Uba Tuba and hasn't had a problem with it, ever. So now we have a problem because we trust both your advice and the fabricator's. What should we do? Thanks, Jackie, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Jacqueline: And you're asking me whom you should trust?? Do you have any idea what an impregnator/sealer is all about? Does your fabricator even know what kind of stone he's dealing with?
But that's not even the point. The point is: What am I now, somebody else decision maker??!
Run my little lemon juice (and oil) test on a piece of scrp and than make your own decision. I know what I would be doing if it were my own
countertop. But this is yours. It's your call.
What would I stand to make by insisting one way or the other? I am not
trying to sell you my impregnator/sealer, am I now?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6958: Can you tell me how to maintain this product? JuraStone, I believe, is a manmade limestone product. That is, limestone held in place with a manmade binder. The installation is in a shopping mall(s) and the management people want to have a higher shine / sheen on the product. I am familiar with diamond polishing, polishing powders, re-crystalization process, etc but do not want to attempt any prosess that may damage the stone. thank you for your response, Paul, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Paul: I'm not familiar at all with that particular material, but to stay on the safe side I would consider goind up to 1800 with diamomd (less, depending on the type of machine and the brand of the diamond pads), and then go into a program using my MB-8. It's a total breakthrough on the subject of topical finishes. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Regardless of your religious persuasion if you believe that Jurastone is a man-made limestone held together with a binder you would have to believe that the world is flat. Can't you tell the difference between one of the icons of the world limestone industry and a man-made product? Jurastone is one of the world's most widely distributed and serviceable limestones. And if you know about polishing powders and diamond polishing you must be into gemmology. Perhaps that is why you don't know that the process of polishing won't damage natural limestone. (Dr. Hans)
Q 6957: I have an outdoor slate called golden goose that is very flaky! It's on the patio underneath a bit of a cover. It's been on for 1 year and seems you can't walk across it without a chunk flying off, and for goodness sake DON'T PRESSURE WASH! Anyhoo, is there some type of sealant that will help stop the flaking? Please help before I get down to the cement underneath!!! sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Mitchel; There's nothing that you can do ... What am I thinking!... Shame on me! All you have to do is to go back to the knowledgeable merchants who sold that beautiful stuff to you: they're experts, you know ... They know everything about slate and then some!! You're gonna have to be patient, though: they are so busy selling it that you're gonna have to wait on line before they can pay any attention to you ... but it's gonna be any day now ... any day!!... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6956: My husband and I just build a new home. We had Travertine flooring installed in our kitchen, eating area and the hallway. The installers of the floor did not clean up the grout properly and therefore, our floor has multiple grout stains and there is no shine to the floor. My husband and I are trying to find out how to clean the tile and make it look well maintained. We would greatly appreciate your advice. Regards, Ellen, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Ellen: If I can understand the circumstances in the right perspective there's nothing that you can do other than getting hold of a reputable stone restoration contractor and consult with them.
Now, you'd better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly!
I did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6955: How can I remove what looks like water stains on my 3 month old granite countertop. They are around the sink area - which is why I think they are water. I've tried my best to ensure the countertop gets wiped dry all the time but I can't watch my family day in and day out. I used the spray I got from the manufacturer but it doesn't seem to work. I didn't think I needed to reseal the granite this soon, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Dotti: First off, the sealing thing has nothing to do with it, because what you have are not stains. Second, we don't even know whether your "granite" needed to be sealed or not. So, why don't you start by telling me what "granite" you have?Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6954: Wish I would have found your site before today! We have had nero absolut(honed) installed. The gent doing the installation made a comment regarding the upkeep of the honed granite. He( and now you) have me worried sick, as we specifically asked about the integrity of the granite once it was honed and were told by the sales people it would be fine(fingerprints yes, staining no).
So obviously a mistake has been made. My question is they used a sealer, I think once only. Is there a sealer product that is superior than others? After less than 10 hrs, there are a few marks already,( from what I don't know). I know that oil and acidic residue are the worst culprits. How long do they have sit on the stone to do damage? 1 hr ?, 5 hrs?, 24 hrs? Finally, where the seam is located, they seem to have polished it down to a point where the seam itself is "whiter" than the rest of the counter. Any reason for this? I need any help you can provide to help in the maintenance of my new
counters! Thanks in advance, Nancie
, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Nancy: The application of an impregnator/sealer was a big mistake. There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well . black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the gray! If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop (such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator/sealer). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6953: What about Turkish Travertine? Any comments on it's quality? Also, I realize that this site is about problems, but in general it seems that Travertine is not a very good solution for home or commercial traffic areas. Needs the highest level of installation competence (very very hard to find) and continual maintenance and repair. Is standard tile a better solution in most cases? Aaron, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Aaron: Turkish travertine is not any better or worse than other travertine. Said that, there are streets made in travertine since the ancient Romans! Yes, the quality of installation os paramount, but once that is done, if travertine is well cared for can be a very enjoyable stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6952: We just had our travertine installed and the carpeting contractor used our bathroom with the travertine that has not been sealed. The smell of urine is all over the bathroom. How do I clean the travertine that has not been sealed?Thanks, Jean, sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Jean: Do you really think that if your travertine had been sealed the smell wouldn't be there now? At any rate, there are products available at your local vet that are
designed to remove those kinds of odors. Test some on a speare tile to find out if it's safe on the stone, and if it is, just follow the directions on the container. It may take morer than one attempt. After that, more than sealing, concern yourself at learning how to properly care for your travertine, which may or may not include sealing. The routine maintenance is galactically moe important than the the sealing issue with a stone as dense as travertine. M Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6951: I have an unsealed limestone fireplace which has some soot marks. How do I clean and what should I use to seal to make this easier to maintain in the future? sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Sharon: The following are the ingredients that you will need to clean your fireplace
from soot:
1) 3 parts of warm water (the warmer the better);
2) 1 part of regular household bleach;
3) masking material for all around your working area;
4) 1 laundry brush;
5) lots of patience;
6) lots of elbow-grease!
After that you could seal your stone using my outlandish MB-4! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6950: I am in a very unique position. A good friend of mine has a quartz/silestone countertop business and he has approached me with this question; What can we do with the scrap that's leftover? The total scrap for the year is in the area of 600,000 pounds plus. I have a few ideas but I was wondering if you would know of or can advise me on a solution for this problem. Maybe it can be re-manufactured into products for other industries? At present the scrap is going to the landfill which seems like an awful waste. Is this a problem throughout the industry? How do other companies handle this? Thanks in advance for your help. Bob, Sept 20, Reply
R1: Dear Findstone, I am in a very unique position. A good friend of mine has a quartz/silestone countertop business and he has approached me with this question; What can we do with the scrap that's leftover? The total scrap for the year is in the area of 600,000 pounds plus. I have a few ideas but I was wondering if you would know of or can advise me on a solution for this problem. Maybe it can be re-manufactured into products for other industries? At present the scrap is going to the landfill which seems like an awful waste. Is this a problem throughout the industry? How do other companies handle this? Thanks in advance for your help. Bob
R2: Call a local paving company. They are the only ones I have found to take away scrap at no charge.. Mark
R3: They can always have it turned into liners or mosaic pcs. If they have products such as this, they always offer it together with the slabs for counter splash and the likes
R4: Hi, my name is Nick Helder from John Eisen Natural Stone Products. I was just wondering where the product is located and what sizes are the waste? Maybe could be used as a decorative aggregate if crushed or tumbled? Thanks, Nick
R5: there are no solutions.try to find a bathroom market or make tiles.
R6: Grade and sort the scrap on basis of Color,Appearence and Size. Then it will be excellent raw material for manufacturing 'Mozaic Cement Tiles'. -Satish
Q 6949: We had Volga Blue installed in our kitchen 2.5 years ago. Recently, we've developed a crack in the back splash, in the 9.0 foot by 2.5 foot counter behind the sink and now, a crack in front of the sink. Someone from the place where we got the granite came to look at the counter and told us that it cracked because we stood on it. Well, we didn't stand on it and we are left with a huge problem because they have offered us to have some guys fix it after hours and that they could charge us what ever they would charge. I called another granite fabricator and they say its a liability and wont help us. I live on Cape Cod and there are limited number of granite fabricators here.

I really would like to know why the granite cracked if possible. I also want someone to take the counter out of our kitchen, bring it to there shop and fix it the best way possible (the counter top was installed with silicone adhesive). Is this the right way to repair our granite or is this an impossible request? If someone comes and glues the crack in place, will this hold or crack more if the problem why it cracked in the first place isn't fixed? Another reason for having the granite removed would be to reinstall it the correct way so it wont crack again if indeed installation was the reason for these cracks in the first place. The original fabricators didn't use any reinforcing bars that I have now learned it is a wise practice to prevent cracking. They didn't caulk the back splash to the counter and I never noticed it and assumed it was installed correctly. If water got under there, could that have been a reason why it cracked? They said water doesn't make granite crack. In your knowledge, is Volga Blue a "strong" granite? We've been sealing it, should we be? Thank you for your help - I really appreciate it! Rhonwen
, sept 03, Reply
R1: Sounds like someone has to inspect the installation. Cracks happen because of stresses typically at weak points, and it could be a number of issues:

1, The backsplash and/or counter weren’t properly reinforced with metal. We specify this for all of our stone counters in areas around openings such as the small area in front of a sink or openings for outlets that are fairly close to an edge of a backsplash.

2. The backsplash and/or counter weren’t supported securely. Sometimes this means that the cabinets aren’t strong enough. Sometimes it means that the counter wasn’t placed on the cabinets correctly. Sometimes this means that the floor under the cabinets shifted slightly. It can be anything from minor structural problems to something like a foundation shifting (this happens a lot on Cape Cod which is more or less a sand bar!). I suspect that because the problem is on the backsplash as well as on the counter, the problem is with the something happening in the structure that supports both. But it also could be that the backsplash wasn’t properly attached to the wall and the weight of the stone has transferred down to the counter in an irregular manner. This may also explain why the backsplash cracked and then the counter cracked after that.

I have a place in Provincetown and am about to renovate my place, so I’ll be there on and off a great deal over the next 6 months. I would be happy to meet you at your house. Please contact me if you are interested.


R2: I'm not sure how the crack in the back splash has anything to do with the countertop cracking. Failure to Caulk the back splash or water getting under the back splash would be a hygiene problem not associated with the cracking. There is two different things taking place here. The part may have been damaged during the preparation of the sink cutout and went un-noticed. Then if the countertop was not shimmed properly the weight of the stone may have created the break. Repairing the crack should be done by a professional but the repair may be visible over time depending on the adhesive used during that process.

If you chose to remove the faulty part consider replacing it with a solid surface countertop simulating natural stone. Solid surface has may superior qualities.

* Durable * Homogeneous * Seamless * Hygienic * Stain Resistant * Renewable * Nonporous * Class I Fire rating * Cost Effective

Your designer or fabricator can offer endless features like:

Ø Sheets, Ø Shapes, Ø Unlimited Colors, Ø Unique Textures, Ø Many Looks (stone, glass), Ø Personalize, Ø Logos, Ø Inlays, Ø Photos, Ø Patterns, Ø Fabrication Versatility

There should be plenty of Solid Surface manufacturers in the Cape Cod area. If you are having problems finding a local shop try one of the listed web pages to assist you

R3: Hello Rhonwen, I am by name called Kefas Malgwi, a Geologist by training, and having a Masters degree (Technology) in Mineral Exploration. I read you inquiry through findstone.com
Its unfortunate that by virtue of the distance, i may not be able to examine you pretty annoying circumstance, but all the same i want to still comment on some issues raised. 1. Blue Volga granite is a good granite. 2. The use of reinforcement bars is not the best remedy in all cases, but the structural outlay must be corrcect.
3. If granite slab cracks after fixing and there is no sign of joint in the original structure, then the cause of the crack must be treated otherwise no type of adhesive will be able to seal the crack permanently. I can not give the definite reason why the slab cracked but if all factors related to applied pressure on the polished surface proved nil, i will advise that the orientation of the slad dimension be communicated to to me or invite the nearest structural engineer/ Geologist to have a comprehensive study of the sink area and the environment at large. I wish you good luck.