| ADVICE WANTED! | July 31, 2002 | |
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Installation
| Q 2351: I am building a patio with a stream down the middle. I was able to do the water feature with liner and thin stone. Now I want to build a small stacked stone wall around my oval reservoir with stone that are 3 - 4 inches thick and assorted lengths and I am not sure how to cut the curves and top cap block. Any ideas? I am also pouring cement around 3 very large slabs of stone (around a ton each) one of the stones has settled and is now 3/4 of an inch lower than the other two. Any ideas on how to raise the stone or lower the other two stones to make them level? Thanks Roger, July 30, Reply |
| Q 2310: We are building a new house. I would like to go for a shiny black granite countertop in my kitchen. I like the look of absolute black but would like to know how to tell if I am getting a good product and how do I go about installing the 12" x 12" tiles. What do we use to set them? I have been told that silicone is the wrong choice. We live in Missouri. Thanks, Helen, July 26, Reply |
| R2: Dear Helen: Absolute Black is an excellent stone, provided it has not been dyed. Mike, USA |
| R1: Dear Helen: About the setting material I would use a product available at the HD by Custom Builders and labeled: Stone Setting Adhesive. Keep 1/16" gap in between tiles and use unsanded grout to finish the job.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2307: Hi.
We are replacing our entryway door, but would also like to put ceramic
tile in the foyer. Is there a rule as to what should be done first - the
door or the floor? We have gotten mixed answers from different people.
We are concerned b/c the door we are ordering is a fiberglass door with
a full glass light - with two full sidelights. Afraid of what we would
do if door is put in first and cannot clear the tiles - and afraid if
do tiles first, there may be a gap where the new jamb and tiles meet.
Please advise. Thanks, Mary, July 26. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Mary: No, there are no rules; only common sense. First you put down the
floor (you can't make that thinner than necessary for a sound installation,
can you!), then the door jambs must be adapted, if necessary, to the new
situation. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2306: We recently inherited a Carrara marble fireplace mantle. It is in eight sections and we would like to install it in our late 1800's home. Can this be done "do it yourself" or will it require professional assistance? The two up rights and the center medallion have holes in the back for mounting. How would we use these to mount the mantle? Thank you Jeff, July 26, Reply |
| R3: Dear Jeff: Get a pro. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R2: If you do not know why the holes are there, then you definitely need to call a pro. Mike, USA |
| R1: Jeff; Personally, I would engage the services of a good, knowledgeable, and reputable stone setter for this. Unless you've had some experience, you will get in over your head with this one. Good luck, JVC, USA, |
| Q 2303: We are planning on going with blue pearl slab granite for our kitchen counters. I have read in your advice column that it does not have to be sealed. Our fabricator says that we should seal it anyway and that he recommends that all stone countertops be sealed. Will it hurt to seal it? Vohl, July 26, Reply |
| R2:
Dear Vohl: I can see that your fabricator's brains have been sealed real
good by the "salesmen"! No, it won't hurt the stone to seal it anyway,
but it may create problems. And your fabricator will be the last person
in the world able to solve them, since they wouldn't even know where they
come from! Mother Nature made Blue Pearl (an anorthosite from Norway)
one of the best material possible for a kitchen countertop. Why tamper
with it just for the heck of making the "salesmen" happy and wealthy??! You're welcome to print this out and have you fabricator read it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R1: Dear Vohl: In this instance your fabricator is wrong. Trying to seal Blue Pearl is a waste of time. The stone is too dense to accept a sealer. Mike, USA |
| Q 2301: I have read your expert advice page and am impressed. We are building a new home and am doing all the work ourselves, my husband is a contractor. We want absolute black granite 12x12 tiles on our kitchen counter, Could someone give us installation advice? The granite supplier is trying to sell us sealer. I figure the grout will need sealed but your site says that the granite will not have to be sealed. Any help would be appreciated I would like to do this right the first time. Please don't email me and tell me to hire someone. Thanks, Helen, July 26, Reply |
| R2: Dear
Helen: OK, I won't tell you to hire a professional! Unfortunately I won't
even give you any tips on the installation of those tiles, because I have no intention of writing a book on the subject. The grout could use sealing (although, being black, wouldn't show anything if stained). The black "granite" tile won't Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R1: Dear Helen: Use a thinset on 3/4" backerboard. Use round toothpicks to space the tiles for your grout lines. Use a white cloth and acetone and rub it on a couple of tiles to make sure they are not an inferior product that has been dyed. If black rubs off on the cloth, reject the lot. Tell your granite supplier that you will be conducting this test, because if he is ignorant enough not to know that Absolute Black is so dense that no sealer would ever penetrate the stone and instead would merely sit on the surface, then he is certainly ignorant enough not to know that some black granites have been dyed. He also would not be aware that the sealer will cause its own problems in the future. Mike, USA |
| Q 2291: I
have been reading your site and I must say that I am impressed with the vast amount of knowledge that exists. Thank you! My question is this: I notice that for floors and counter tops and places that get wet (showers) you are recommending a 1/16" grout spacing. I understand the reason for that. For walls, you sometimes recommend doing a butt-joint. What about a fireplace surround and a ~12 sq. foot floor space in front of the fireplace? Can't I just butt-joint the granite tile all around the fireplace considering that there, more than likely, won't be any water near the fireplace? Thanks! Rob, July 24. Reply |
| R1: Dear Rob: Absolutely. I can see that you can use your own head! Congratulations! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2288: Hi, I need some help please. I did a mosaic tile countertop in my Mother's dry bar. It's been completed for about a month, (fyi -I used non sanded grout) so I'm sure it's cured by now. Here's my question. I would like to put some sort of acrylic or poly coating on it. My goal here is to have some sort of clear coating over it so that I can preserve the mosaic and never have to worry about anything touching the tiles or grout itself. A tile installer who was doing some work in Mother's kitchen told her he had heard of people using Mod Podge over tile mosaics???? Have you heard of this and does it work. If not, do you have any suggestions as to what type of coating I can use. Also, should I use a grout sealant before I put any sort of "clear coating" on it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Brandy, July 24, Reply |
| R1: Dear Brandy: Sorry, but I am a stone guy, not a clear coat one! I am highly opinionated on how stone (mosaic or what-have-you) should look like, and my opinion doesn't certainly coincide with yours. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2286: I am trying to find information about how to install and maintain natural stone floors. These stones will be collected from my own property and used as a floor. I need information about how to do this before I try and error it. If you could tell where to even look I would be thrilled. Tabatha, July 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tabatha: My best suggestion is that you start working with a well
established tile setter specializing in natural stone as an apprentice for, say ... a year or so (two would be better). By then you'll know what to do next. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2280: Could you recommend the best type (not brand) of grout for a granite tile kitchen countertop please? Thank you. Monica, July 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Monica: Epoxy-grout would be very definitely the best choice, but it's only sanded and not easy to handle. The next best thing is unsanded grout (wall-type) mixed with acrylic. Once properly cured (a few days) it should be sealed with a stone impregnator / sealer. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2274: I am doing job in green marble what kind glue should I use? Where can I buy it and for how much? Thanks, Frank. July 22. Reply |
| R1: Dear Frank: Theoretically you should be using epoxy-based setting material. However, at the Home Depot there's a setting material from Custom Builders dubbed Stone Setting Adhesive (or something like that!). It's much more practical to use than a two part epoxy and won't create any of the problems that regular thinset would. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| Q 2238: Hello. This website is very informative and it must be very time-consuming for you to respond to everyone. I have noticed that in several of your comments, you infer that the "granite" people think they have in their homes is not granite at all. What might it be instead? I am asking because we have recently purchased a home with "granite" countertops but we do not know what they are or who installed them. After reading your site, I realized that we might have a problem already. The "granite" has a surface scratch (looks like a score mark) about an inch in length and about an inch from the sink... we assumed it was an error when the sink was installed and didn't make a big deal of it as it was a surface mark (we hope). The building inspector suggested we get someone in to polish it out but we thought we could live with it. I'm interested to know what you think. Where do people buy the products you recommend for cleaning countertops? Are these cleaners non-toxic (we have a small child)? Thanks for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Rebecca. July 15, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rebecca:
I always put the word "granite" in between quotation marks, because, in
fact, appproximately the 98% (no, it's not a typo) of the stone traded
as granite are not granite. They can be gabbro, dolerite, larvikite, anorthiste,
gneis, porphyry, granidorite, anidrite, etc., through a long list. That
doesn't mean that they are not as good as true geological granite. As
a matter of fact, some of them are better than granite; at the other end,
unfortunately, there are "granites" that, in my opinion, should be banned
altogether. But, hey, it's just me! As far your problem is concerned, a scratch could have happen to any stone, true granite included. Yes, you do need a professional stone refinisher to take a look at it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2159: I had Baltic
Brown granite installed in my kitchen. I love the look, however, I
have some concerns. First of all, one slab has many wheel marks---29
in all. These marks are different sizes of what looks like a 9" circular
mark. Only one is almost a complete circle. These marks can not be seen
during the sunny part of the day, however, cloudy times or when the sun
is going up or down or when it is dark----you can really see these marks!
The owner of the granite company has been to my house and told me the
marks were from a 9" polishing head that is used on the big machines in
Italy. He tried to make me believe that it is very common and that if
the industry did not accept these marks, granite would not be as affordable
as it is. I told him that my other three slabs do not have one circular
mark and that I can not believe that this is as common as he is stating.
He was unable to find one mark on the others, however, he said that if
he replaced this one slab chances are that it too would have these wheel
marks. He also said that industry standards allows for these wheel marks.
Is he correct---or is he feeding me a bunch of garbage? Another concern I have, his installers cut the holes for my faucet without protecting my $500 cast iron sink. They then dry wiped some of the granite dust out. We did not touch it and a week later a second person came to check the work and he cleaned it out with something very strong smelling. After almost 1/2 hour of rubbing very hard and polishing my sink he was finished and the sink looked great. Now his magic shine has worn off and I am finding very small scratches in my sink. Can the granite dust cause this? Is it industry standard to not protect a $500 sink from the mess caused by drilling faucet holes? These wonderful installers also chipped a 1" chunk of granite off the end of my back splash---right on the end next to the window for all to see. They filled it with a black epoxy that obviously didn't match the shine of the granite. The owner of the company also said that this met industry standard, however, he would replace it. Something tells me that this is not industry standard. My last issue is a gap between the bottom of the backsplash and the countertop. One 30" section of the backsplash does not sit flush with the countertop. It has been filled with caulking 2 times and according to the owner----it needs it again. He isn't sure what caused it, however, it might be their saw that did it and that it really wasn't a big deal. Shouldn't the backsplash be flush with the countertop? Is there an industry standard on gap size? Also, where does one go to find these "industry standards"? Thank you, Susan, July 4, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: Inasmuch at times I feel like an idiot Don Quixote by denouncing
the bare truth, the fact that so called "Industry standards" are conspicuously nonexistent keeps haunting the industry back. The result -- based upon your side of the story -- is the presence of "Michelangelos" on the loose like the guy you've been dealing with. Of course, you don't have to accept a slab with grinding marks. (Besides, Baltic Brown doesn't even come from Italy.) You don't have to accept a "repair" like the one performed with epoxy, either; as well as you don't have to accept any gap whatever between the backsplash and the countertop surface. And if the guy insists at saying that "everything is within industry standards" you tell him flat out to his face to either show you such "industry standards" in writing, or to shut the heck up and do the job the way common sense suggests. And, by the way, when everything is done to your satisfaction, do NOT allow the guy to seal your Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; I highly doubt you'll ever get anything like that from your "Professional fabricator" (By the way, feel free to print this out and show it to him. Who knows, maybe, just maybe, there's a remote chance that a "shock treatment" may just do him some good!) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2140: I am a landscape architect and I have designed a pool terrace paved w/ concrete pavers. The pavers are installed and the client would like to have a bull nose for the pool coping (the tile is 7/8" thick). What kind of router bit should he purchase? Thanks, Erez. June 30, Reply |
| R1: A diamond router bit, quarter round, radius = 3/8", Miguel, USA. |
| A 2100: I am installing 3/4 inch Blue Pearl granite on an island which will have a 12" overhang. The granite will be set on 3/4 inch plywood. Will I need to provide additional support for the overhang and if so any suggestions? Thank You, Bruce, June 21, Reply |
| R1: Dear Bruce: If the plywood is solidly bonded to the slab you should not, but ... as they say, "Better safe than sorry!" Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2060: We are about to install a porcelain tile floor. We have 30 year old cabinets which we are keeping (they are in beautiful shape and we love them). Presently there is 2 layers of linoleum and a layer of plywood. We have had a few tile installers come in. One said to remove the lower cabinets to level out the floor then tile and the put the old cabinets back in. He would use liquid level and thin set to level. The next tiler said not to take out the cabinets to use wonderboard and thin set. The third tiler said not to remove the cabinets because they are old and may shift and the drawers may not slide as they should, to use thin set with a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch trowel to level the floor and the to use wire not wonderboard which would be stapled to the plywood. What should we do. Remove the cabinets? Use wonderboard or use wire? Please help. Mary, June 14, Reply |
| A 2051: We are
in the process of having kitchen counters installed using Cafe Brown granite.
The installation is "complete" but the seam between two slabs is visible
and rough. When I run my fingernail over it, it catches. The contractor
claims he can repair it - he sent a crew over and they used power polishing
machines on the area. I can't tell any difference. In the process of running
a razor blade over the seam to "clean the epoxy" off, they put a chip
in the granite about the size of a small pencil eraser. I haven't given them the final payment ($3,000) yet. Can you recommend a true professional I can call to come and look at the work. I live in Orange County California (about 20 miles south of Disneyland). What do I do. JOHN, June 12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear John: Simply demand your fabricator to come back and fill the chip
properly with epoxy filler. Should you wish, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2018: How much it cost to per SF to clad a facade with polished black granite 1" thick 1.5' x 1.5' on metal studs? I am an architect. Hosam, June 4, Reply |
| R1: Dear Hosam: As much as the market bears. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2005: Hi there! I have have lots of experience laying ceramic tile but am looking forward to a project with granite tile, I would like to laminate granite bullnose to the edges of the front tiles also and hope you can suggest the proper "glue". Thank you! Merry-Lee, USA, June 3, Reply |
| R1: Dear Merry-Lee: Epoxy. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1984: We are planning to install Travertine in our family room. When we pulled the old carpet out we realized that the prior owners had put down particle board as a subfloor. At one point I remember reading about some kind of floating floor installation of travertine that did not use an adhesive. Is this possible and if not, what could we use with the particle board subfloor. Renee, USA May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Renee: Floating installation of travertine (typically sawn-finished
and unfilled) is for outdoors installations only (a patio, a driveway,
etc.) I would put either a 1/4" or 1/2" cement board (according to the
flexibility of the subfloor) over the particle board, then install with
the thin-set method (white thin set only). Check out my maintenance tips toward the end of this page side bar. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1977: I read
the postings on granite seams and would like to check if I have understood
the reasons why seams might be necessary. My understanding is
that seams are needed: - if a length of a counter is longer than the slab or if the counter involves an L. and may be needed: - in areas where the granite might crack due to stress if not cut and seamed (near cut-outs); - to avoid fissures or other "defects" in the slab. I would appreciate any comments on this. Thanks, Barbara, May 28. Reply |
| R1: Dear Barbara: You've already said it all! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1971: I want to know what
is a fair price to pay for having stone installed or laid per
square foot on approximately 230 square feet of patio including materials.
Herb, USA, May 27. Reply |
| A 1969: I am getting ready to purchase 700 sq ft. of the Perlato Royale Agglomerate. I see that a mortar is best and would like to lay it with a tight grout. Wondering what blade would work on my tile saw with this product of 95% marble chips and resin and also what is meant by the PEI rating of cals V. Listed as indoor/outdoor so seems it is versatile. Your guidance on maintenance & installations of Perlato Royale Agglomerate stone would be appreciated. Ed, May 26, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ed: Installation? The same like marble tiles (white thin set, 1/16" grout gap, unsanded grout). Maintenance? Should you be interested at receiving our free guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installations, hit the reply / contact button at the end of your own question and ask for it. I'll be glad to E-mail them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1959: I have inherited an assorted range of marble (and granite) tiles (the standard 12x12, 3/8 in. thick kind). They all have a highly polished finish. I would like to embark on a mosaic floor project; I have a small diamond wet saw which works great, so I'm eager to start, but I have two questions: What's the best way to "un-hone" the surface so that it has a natural, worn look? I can imagine grinding the edges a bit for a vaguely 'tumbled' effect to soften the look, but what about the super shiny surface? Would it be better to consider a process in situ, once the mosaic is installed, or could it be done more easily on the individual tiles before cutting into mosaic components? Also, what sort of grout is best if I want the mosaic pieces to have as small a seam as possible? Ciao & Grazie! -Cynthia, Boston, May 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cynthia: Unless you
know how to grind a floor perfectly flat, you can't hone (mechanically,
at least) your "tessera" after they've been installed. Besides the chipping
of the edges as you indicated, I would use muriatic acid to chemically
hone the marble (it will keep the same depth of color. If you use phosphoric
acid instead, it will lose depth and become pale). As far as the granite
is concerned, unless you cat get your hands on some Hydrochoric Acid,
you will have to hone them by wet-sanding, again before installation.
As far as the seaming is concerned, since to do mosaic requires a lot
of patince anyway, I would take my time to "wipe" the edges of the single
pieces with a thin layer of unsanded grout, then butt-joint the pieces
to one another. Of course, you will clean the excess of grout with a sponge
every two of three square feet (before it dries, that is). Ciao &
Prego, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1944: My family
is building a new home and we have selected for our kitchen and the
foyer to be covered with black granite shiny tiles. The builder's
selected contractor had advised us that they should be hired for the job
given the "extensive experience and expertise" that they have in doing
this type of job. That for black tiles, it is very easy to look bad if
we hired somebody who do not know what they're doing. Therefore, we end
up paying this contractor over $12000 for this job. However, after he
sent someone to put the tiles in, we went and reviewed the job. We
are horrified at how uneven they were laid. Not only were there difference
in spacing between the tiles, it is also uneven in the way that some tiles
are not flat. Almost to the point that someone may trip over a corner! After he surveyed the situation, he is not willing to re-do the job even though he admit that they did not do a good job. He is now suggesting that he will grind down the whole entire floor (foyer to kitchen) to make it level/even/flatten out, and then polish it. However, he said the color may wear out a little and he won't guarantee results. Maurizio, your help and response would be so very greatly appreciated. We have no experience nor expertise and do not know if we should allow him to do this grinding down of the tiles. Please let me know what you think. Thanks! Venessa, May 21. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Venessa: No, by all
means, do NOT allow the guy to try grinding your floor! His installation is totally faulty and you have a legal case as big as your entire house and then some. Grinding "granite" and refinishing it requires a professionalism that is almost up there with the pagan Gods!! The guy is totally unqualified. A proven professional would not charge any less than $ 20 to 25 per square foot to do a job like that (I know I wouldn't!). And if the job is done by a competent contractor, there will be no loss of depth of color, either. Demand your GC to replace the floor and take his butt to court if he refuses. You can't lose! The official industry standards for "lippage" (those sticky corners) is 1/32". We're talking about less than the thickness of a dime. If you need additional assistance, hit the "reply" link at the end of your posting and ask to get in touch directly with me. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1931: I
think your website is very informative. Our house was built
last year (in New Hampshire) and we had Thassoss White greek marble (pure
white-no veins) installed in our approx. 300 sq ft foyer floor. Unfortunately
the gen'l contractor hired an installer without much marble experience;
the first problem was that the grout lines were about 1/2" wide but it
was really the second problem that caused the first re-installation, that
is, the tiles started to "buckle" and move until almost all the tiles
were tilted. So that floor was ripped up and Thassos was laid again
by a different installer about 9 months ago but we are now facing a third
installation for the following reasons and could use some advice to avoid
a fourth mess; first I should point out that the subfloor is plywood /
Advantech, then dur-rock nailed down; thin-set and unsanded grout were
used. 1) The floor has cracked in a series of straight lines that mirror the seams of the plywood subfloor; and where the cracks aren't fully formed you can see the marble "dimpling" inward; the contractors solution to this is to add more supports to the floor in the basement in case that floor is moving from pressure. Would any tile have cracked, or is Thassos especially sensitive? It is very thick marble. Also, the contractor says that instead of dur-rock they will be using a German product (Schluter??). Will that help? 2)There are still a number of individual tiles that have "moved" i.e corners sticking up and down. Why? How can this be prevented? 3) We still think the grout lines are too wide (1/8 ") and the white grout is impossible to keep clean. The installer claims that the grout lines "are close enough". Should we hand them toothpicks next time? Is there different grout that would stay cleaner? What is the standard width of grout lines? 4) Are we crazy to have this installed again? Is Thassos an appropriate marble for an entry? Is there another pure white marble that would be more durable? Thank you for any advice you may have. Tom, May 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tom: First off, I'd
fire -- without a second thought and a single iota of regret -- your GC.
He obviously knows nothing about marble. Remember: You'll never get a
different result by doing the same thing over and over (in this case,
using the same GC)!! Second, after the proper celebration that will be in order after you fire the guy, you have to make sure that the joists holding the floor meet the L 760 flexion value requirement. If you don't have enough (stiff) support from the joists, no matter what you do on the subfloor, and no matter what stone you use (granite included) you will have an installation failure, period. Third, to do a very good job with no "lips", and with the grout-lines in a way that won't collect dirt, you should consider a "grind-in-place" installation. Especially in the case of White Thassos, such an unrivaled installation technique would give you a perfectly flat, monolithic floor (you won't feel the grout by passing a fingertip over it, since it will be perfectly flush with the tiles). By the way, you're right, the grout-lines shouldn't be more than 1/16". Which goes to prove once more -- as if there was any extra need -- that both your GC and his installers are plain incompetent. If you have a hard time finding someone in New Hampshire who can do "grind-in-place" installation, hit the "reply" link at the end of your very question and ask to get in touch directly with me. I'll be glad to help you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1924:
Wow, nice site! We had just purchased a 1929 bungalow in
Kansas and in our backyard we had found stacks of slate tiles.
They are a 1/4" thick and are 11.5"x 5.5". They seem to be a green natural
cleft variety. I have no idea how long they have been out in the elements.
What do you think they were originally used for? My guess is,
they were used for the outdoors somewhere. We are restoring this home
and I would like to reintroduce them indoors by replacing a laminate kitchen
countertop with these slate tiles. My questions to you are: 1) Can I do that? 2) Would there be a better use for them? 3) If I can turn them into a countertop, What is best way to install them? Janet, May 17, Reply |
| A 1905: I am currently having installation quotes from several people. I am thinking of putting in travertine tile, 18x18. Area is about 480 sqft. (dining, kitchen, guest bath, entry way, high traffic areas). What would be some of the key questions to ask in addition to actually seeing reference work? Looking at 1/8" spacing, straight lines for laying tile, etc. Are there advantages to polishing vs.honed (no shine)? What about installation, tile set, slip-sheet, etc? Prices have been ranging several thousand dollars. Some of my quotes include materials and labor. What advice can you offer? Thanks, Larry, May 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Larry: 1/8" grout gap? ... I dislike you already!! :-) 1/16" is the gap you want, and you also want to make sure that wall-type grout (sandless, that is) is used. About what to put under the tiles, there's no specific rule. It all depends from your subfloor. White thinset is a must. Actually, considering the "weird reaction" that the migration of moisture through the core of the stone can general (mold) on some of the tiles, you may want to consider using rapid-set cement, like the one available at the HD, by Custom Builders (it's called stone setting adhesive). You can grout after 2 hours and, most importantly, you won't have any "surprise" due to migration of moisture. It's more expensive, of course, but, in my opinion, well worth the extra dough! Polished versus honed. You don't want polished travertine (or marble) in a kitchen, that's for sure (unless of course, your kitchen is going to be just a show-place!!) About the rest, it all depends what you like. Sure enough, honed does require less maintenance than polished. About pricing? I'd choose the highest bidder. But hey, it's just me!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1904: We are
installing "granite" 12x12 tiles ("Colorado gold" ? from Home Depot)
on our new kitchen counter top (Will plan to do the lemon juice test as soon as I get home.) We don't have the option to hire someone to install. We have laid tile before but not granite. 1. The builder has put down plywood over the surface. Should the tile be installed on this or should we place backer board? 2. We've been told to use thinset is this ok? 3. We also plan to use un-sanded grout with a 1/16 grout line. Please give us your words of wisdom, Thank you, Maj and Joe, May 15. Reply |
| A 1894:I SET 1" FLAGSTONE ON A THREE DAY OLD CONCRETE SLAB. I USED "S" TYPE MORTAR MIXED WITH 2 PARTS SAND TO BED THE FLAGSTONE. WHEN GROUTING 2 DAYS LATER I DISCOVERED SEVERAL LOOSE STONES. IN SOME CASES THE MORTAR WAS STUCK TO THE STONE AND NOT THE SLAB. IN OTHER CASES THE OPPOSITE. AND IN SOME CASES THE MORTAR WAS NOT STUCK TO EITHER. I CLEANED THE STONES AND HAD A BROOMED FINISH ON THE SLAB. WHAT MIGHT BE MY PROBLEM? SHOULD I INCLUDED SOME BONDING ADDITIVE IN THE SETTING MORTAR? THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE VERY RANDOM ON THE 240 SQ. FT. AREA THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT, MARK, May 15. Reply |
| A 1857: We are in the process of choosing flooring materials for our new house (under construction). We have an inner courtyard which leads to a water feature outside, it is covered for the most part by the overhanging roof about 4 ft is exposed . Is it possible to use sandstone flooring around the courtyard and water feature( the inside of the water feature is glass mosaic) ?, we live in Kuala Lumpur where we do experience heavy rainfall in certain months of the year. Prema, May 14. Reply |
| R1: It is possible to use flagstone type material in this setting. One problem is that the overhang may not allow the surface of the stone to dry out sufficiently between soakings. You may have to contend with mold accumulation. The first order of priority is making sure the site allows water to run off and away from your hardscape. Second, proper preparation of the substrate to receive the material is important. Third is making sure the material is installed properly. Fourth, Make sure frequently and often after the installation is complete to assess that the grouting is not loose or washed away. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1852: I am putting granite tiles in my shower. One person told me to use grout, another told me not to. PLEASE ADVISE, Tutoness, May 14. Reply |
| R2: Dear Tutoness: Take a gun and shoot dead the person who told you not to use grout. Not only will you not go to jail, but you will be awarded a medal, too!!! 1/16" gap for proper grouting (a round toothpick) is the mandatory industry standard. "Butt-joint" is illegal. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R1: Use grout. I am concerned that you are taking such a difficult project. Is this your personal shower? Tread carefully, because shower wall failures lead to very expensive repairs. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1846:Hello, My name is John , 3 years ago we installed a 12x12 jade green, (heavily serpentine) shower and tub surround, the GC and the Sub both tried to convince the client to use another material but alas she wanted this. WE took the precaution of backing each piece with epoxy, before setting with 100% acrylic and latex. Hoping this would work, I thought about using epoxy and even tried but at the time most of the product I could find had no body and took forever to set up, now latticrete has a product we like very much., cures in 3 mins or 40 min. Anyway I digress, the marble has begun delaminating, because of the expansion and contraction, some leaching and warping are happening as well. What can we do next better next time so this does not happen again, I installed a shower the same way over 12 years ago and it stands today, same tawain green marble. What Happened? Your expert help would be appreciated if you have the time. Thanks, John,May 14.Reply |
| R2:
Dear John: Somehow, water found its way behind those tiles. There's no
other explanation. Is there grout or caulk missing? Check it out
and you will see that it's probably the case. Did you, for any chance
(I sure hope not), installed those tile "butt-joint"? Regardless, for what you're reporting, the solution to the problem is only one solution. Painful (to the wallet), but feasible: The whole stall has to be ripped out and installed anew. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R1: You did not indicate whether you ever impregnated the serpentine after you installed it. Basically, the moisture attacked from the front. The epoxy rendered the back as a nonporous area. No transpiration occurred. Serpentine then warps and delaminates. Keep the water proofing on the substrate, install the serpentine with 100% epoxy and impregnate after completion. Check the grout and caulk periodically, impregnate as necessary. Remember the stone will require consistent maintenance. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1844: What is the best way to cut 1" thick Brazillian Blue Stone? I need to cut several pieces from a 30"x30" slab to fit around a fish pond. Any help you could lend would be most appreciated. Thank You. Ken, May 14. Reply |
| R1: Take it to a stone fabrication facility and pay them to cut it for you. This is the best way. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1840:I want to install slate tiles to my new fireplace surround and to the hearth. What is your advice as to the type of adhesive, grout and sealer (if applicable)? How should the slate be cared for and what precautions should I take? One product I was looking at is a "tumbled" slate do you see any problems with this? also let me know the installation process, Smith, May 14. Reply |
| R1: Read answer 1839 for my suggestion. The material is nice and if well installed looks quite good. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1839:Can you tell me your opinion on installation of granite tiles on a kitchen counter top. Do I need to put in a water proof membrane? Do I use thin-set or mortar? Do I need a grout line or do I just try to fit them as close as possible. What type of grout do I use. How do I get them all level? My builder is just laying down plywood to tile on. Do I need backer-board? Smith, May 14. Reply |
| R1: The answer to all your questions is Yes. Specific to the grout joint you want about a 1/16" and nonsanded grout. My suggestion is for you to buy a book with pictures and maybe go to your local home improvement and sit in one of their tile seminars. As I have said before, I consider this a moderately difficult to extremely difficult DIY project. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1837: How should I install granite 12x12 tiles on new kitchen counter tops? I need advice on adhesive, grout and the insulation process. I plan to edge with wood trim. Thanx! May 14. Reply |
| R1: You should go to your local home improvement store and sit in on one of their seminars to make sure this is what you really want to tackle. Your local bookstore can sell you manuals with pictures to follow as well. I regard this as a moderately difficult DIY project. Write back after you research it. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1829:We recently had tumbled stone backsplash installed in our kitchen. The contractor filled in the holes with grout and insisted this is proper. We wanted the rustic look with the holes left unfilled. Was this a proper installation? Alyse, May 14.Reply |
| R3: The short answer is that it was a correct and proper way to install the grout. You may also grow to appreciate in the future as the sealed tiles will not allow food particles or sauce splatters to inhabit anywhere but the face of the stone. Apply an impregnator to aid in cleaning and enjoy. Regards, Steven, USA |
| R2:
Dear Alyse: There are no
standards that can rule what you have to like or not. Technically there's
nothing wrong with the installation, but if you liked to holes better
... Should you be interested at receiving our free guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installations, hit the reply / contact button at the end of your own question and ask for it. I'll be glad to E-mail them to you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| R1: The short answer is that it was a correct and proper way to install the grout. You may also grow to appreciate in the future as the sealed tiles will not allow food particles or sauce splatters to inhabit anywhere but the face of the stone. Apply an impregnator to aid in cleaning and enjoy. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1823:Our builder says that in "floating" our 18"x18" travertine stone in cement over a plywood floor, there will be irregularities in the height of some stones, i.e. they can have up to 1/32" difference in height at the edge of stones. We thought that in floating it, the stone-layer will achieve a smooth, regular surface. Can you tell me what the specifications are for such items?,Steve, May 14.Reply |
| R2: The maximum variation from stone to stone is 1/32". This refers to "lippage". Lippage may result from the actual stone itself, the way the tiles were manufactured, or the quality of the installation. It is good that the installer brings this to your attention before the installation. Regards, Steven, USA |
| R1: Dear Steve: 1/32" (no more than that!!) is the top limit for "lippage" as industry standard. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1822: I just had a new shower floor of 1" carrara marble mosaic tiles installed. It was installed over a new lead pan. After a few days, I started getting dark areas on some (but not all) of the tile floor. My tile installer did not use a sealer on the tile. He now says the tile has absorbed water and has to dry out and then he will apply a sealer. It's 9 days of drying already and no difference. Will this ever dry out and will the sealer work after this, Jmjaniak, May 14. Reply |
| R2: It is possible that not enough time has elapsed. It could take 30 days. Sometimes if the installer uses a gray rather than a white thinset this may occur as well. Regards, Steven, USA |
| R1: Dear Jmjaniak: If the contractor used white thinset, then it will eventually dry, If he used gray thinset, it won't. A sealer has no function whatsoever in the picture. Not now, not later. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1811: We kindly ask you to send us some information regarding the most appropriate mounting adhesive, and protection solution for green slate - natural cleft (used outside), Carmenciat, May 14. Reply |
| A 1810:I am wanting to cover our front porch in stone. The guy at home depot said I shouldn't use an isolation membrane, but a book I'm looking at did. Other than Thinset, what do I need to use?, Lisa, May 14.Reply |
| R1: It depends on the substrate and whether or not water will run off from it. I suggest you get a second opinion from a local installation professional. They will be able to accurately identify what needs to be done. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1793: I am installing tumble marble as a backsplash. I will be applying sanded grout before sealing. If I wait 24 hours, will a cleaner help remove the grout haze without affecting the grout? Otherwise, what should I do to avoid grout haze? I later intend to use color enhancer and would not mind purchasing Thanks, Rodolfo May 14.Reply |
| R1: Dear Rodolfo: To remove grout haze, providing that you cleaned the excess off as thoroughly as possible with the sponge, all you need is some warm water and a medium-bristled brush. No, you won't be damaging the grout, but I would let the grout cure for at least two days, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1785: I am doing an installation over an existing slab below grade of Noce Travertine Limestone- crosscut, honed with Dark Empador Marble dots. Is etching the 20 yr old slab required? What is the best adhesive to use? Any recommendations for a waterproof membrane and would the application of such affect adhesion of the stone? Thanks, Rob, May 14. Reply |
| R1: Do a moisture test to assess what type of moisture wicking you are dealing with. Check the slab for cracks and efflorescence. Apply a liquid waterproof/ isolation membrane. Thickset as you would to achieve less than 1/32" lipage. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1774: Can you tell me what is the best & safest way to cut Brazilian blue stone? I have to cut 8 30"x30"x1" thick slabs into various sizes. Would appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks. May 2, Reply |
| A 1758: I'm designing a screened porch with a stone patio floor. The client would prefer to set stone without a concrete slab, but she doesn't want the dust that arises from setting in a sand bed. Is there any product or practice that would allow the setting of stone tiles over a compacted gravel base and sand bed that would be dust-free? Or a crack-filler besides sand that will stay put? I'm not looking for an impervious surface, just a clean one. Marcia, April 25, Reply |
| R3: Marcia, There is a product called Sandlock that was developed to stabilize the joint sand of concrete pavers. It is mixed with the dry sand that is to be swept into the joints and is misted/moistened several times over a 45 minute period and the organic agents bind the sand particles together and form a fairly hard joint. The joint looks like sand, feels a bit like a mortar. Tom, Utah, USA |
| R2: No not for the products or application specified. Regards, Steven, USA |
| R1:
Hello Marca. Yes! You could set the stone tiles on a good old traditional
lime mix. I'm not sure what lime are available in your country, but any
good hydraulic or non-hydraulic lime and sand mix could be used. I would
prefer a 1:2 ratio in the UK but your lime may vary. (consult a lime mortar
supplier). Advantage! Makes a lovely plastic mix, easy to work with. Slow set provides good working time (needs to remain damp while setting) give it a couple / three days for tiles and light traffic for a week or two. Lime has built in flexibility and will accommodate small movements / settlement in the substructure. Lime is produced by a heating process, driving off both the moisture and the carbon dioxide. Result = Quicklime. The water will be returned during a process known as slaking this will produce either a malleable putty or a hydrated powder. Your mix will then reabsorb the carbon dioxide returning the material back to limestone. Lime is environmentally friendly as it rebalances leaving very little excess carbon dioxide in the air once fully set and requiring less heat than cement to produce. For pointing the joints you might add a little boiled linseed oil in the mix, 2% max. Warning! Don't get it on the face of the tiles particularly if they are porous. Best wishes Roy, UK. |
| A 1751: I am using Nuvalato
Trani marble and tumbled Rojo Allicante marble in a shower and would like
to know if I can use an unsanded epoxy grout on the marble. Thanks.
Karen, April 24. Reply |
| R1: Yes you can. Be diligent in the clean up. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1742: We have had a gorgeous slate grand entrance to our home in Richmond, VA. The grout is shaling and the slates are now dangerous and loose. Please advise about proper adhesives/grout for outdoor use. We live in a temperate climate, with lots of climate changes seasonally. We have enjoyed our slate entrance way, including the stairs, for over 10 years now. Thank you for any advice, Debbi, April 21. Reply |
| R1: It may not be the case of adhesive or grout. Could the normal flow of water runoff have been interrupted within the last ten years? It sounds as if something is causing the stones to come loose. Many times it is water. The grouts and adhesives are portland based products. Good luck, Steven, USA |
| A 1720: Need info on laying cobbles / guidance, any contacts, documents, hyperlinks. Help me please!! I am finding difficulty in the laying / setting procedure of natural wahed cobblestones. I am not having much luck so far. The site is in the centre of Oxford, UK and is therefore historically sensitive in terms of retaining natural methods / features. Patrick, April 17. Reply |
| R1: It probably needs to be sand set. I would suggest you call a firm close to you that is familiar with the product and procedure to aid you. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1691: I want to install 12 inch GRANITE TILES on my kitchen island, but I need some ideas on how to make an edge. Any ideas for a do it yourself job? Also, how do I polish the edges of the tile to match the tops? Thanks! Kelly, April 11. Reply |
| R2: To make an edge on a tile you need a variable speed grinder, a 46 stone, a 120 stone and a set of polishing pads, that's for a pencil edge, if you want a bevel you need a grinding wheel with the stones and polishing pads, also you should use the pamir wax to make the tiles edges to look like the countertops. Katie, USA. |
| R1: Dear Kelly: Shaping and polishing edges of stone is not, by far, a DIYer project. Get hold of a local fabrication facility and let them to the job. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1690: How much unsupported overhang can I have using 3 cm granite? Is there a rule of thumb? I am building an island in a kitchen and would like to support the granite with 6 inch diameter wood posts instead of cabinets. Joseph, April 11. Reply |
| R1: Usually the rule of thumb on a 24 inch cabinet is 8-12 inches unsupported, but with a 6 inch posts its probably best to use 2-4 inch overhang. Katie, USA. |
| A 1684: I am building a bar, the base is 84X26. The slab is 86X28X1.5 allowing 1 inch overhang on each side and 2 inches in the front. I will be resting shelves on top on the marble. What do I use to keep the marble in place? Christopher, April 10. Reply |
| R1: Dear Christopher, do you know that your marble slab will weigh close to 140kg (305 pounds). I don't think that it will go very far even if you rest shelves on it. Dr. Hans, Australia |
| A 1643: We have a slate
porch floor, covered. The grout is becoming cracked
and dislodging, plus some of the slate is coming loose. How do we
repair this? Clara. April 3. Reply |
| R1: Hi Clara, I have done a lot of slate. My favorite material to work with actually. Lots of work to remove old grout, oldfashioned good hard on your knees stuff. You need a pro or a lot of time and energy could be wasted. All loose tiles and grout material should be removed and sub-surface clean and level. This is about 80% of the job. Then new tiles are laid. Then the floor can be prepared and grouted. Getting the grout texture to be smooth and perfect is an art. If the consistency ( ratio of water to grout ) and application are lacking, you will have cracks fairly soon. It pays to use a pro., Tile Guy, USA. |
| A 1640: Maurizio, we have installed a granite countertop, that was mistakenly seamed over a dishwasher. The seam is popping up and the front area that was a laminated ogee, is now chipped where that seam begins. It is not a situation where we can rip off the tops, as it would do damage to the cabinets. We have heard solutions such as rodding the seamed area and then maybe supporting it with wood. Then of course, filling in the chipped area. I am a big fan of your advice, so I turned to you for help. Any suggestions? Thanks, Robin, April 3. Reply |
| R2: Dear Robin: I'm sorry, but I had to lay off for a while. My dear friend and colleague Steven gave you answer to which I have nothing to add. Maurizio, USA |
| R1: Though you didn't ask me, I will answer. This can be remedied. Contact the fabrication facility and have them come out and tell you what they can do. Then email me back so that I can advise you. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1630: I am looking for
reference material so that I may learn to install either 16 or 18 inch
tiles in the entry way, guest bath and living room, about 700 square
feet. Some of the area is a 10 year old concrete slab and the rest is
plywood sub-flooring. Could you also recommend a supplier of limestone
in the Orange County, California area? I am looking for the best offer
that I can get, I will be laying the tiles myself. Thanks very much, Tom, April 1, Reply |
| R2:
I wouldn't do this if I were you. Tile, especially stone, setting is a
very specialized trade. I recommend a trade professional, with good references.
If you persist, experiment in another area first to teach yourself, and
go slow... Any good bookstore or hardware store may have 'how to' books. Orange County has several reputable stone suppliers, but most deal with trade professionals. Or, if you are a Home Depot kind of guy, go there. Remember, buyer beware and I don't recommend this as a 'do it yourself' activity. If you have so much time on your hands that you can 'afford' this, then good luck! Alex, USA. |
| R1:
First of all, you shouldn't be trying to buy 'the best price you can get'
unless you really don't care what you end up with. Imagine buying a car,
watch or anything and saying 'the lowest price'. Say you get a used car
and just pick the lowest price in the newspaper, what are you getting? You have to compare 'apples to apples' and 'oranges to oranges'. Biancone from Italy is hard and very durable, The light colors from Portugal are usually quite soft (esp. by comparison to Biancone) and will need careful attn. to sealing and maintenance. Yes this stone is generally less expensive but there is a reason... You should be able to find a local supplier that can explain all this to you and sell you good stone. Alex, USA. |
| A 1620: I read your We are building a new home, and are planning to use marble flooring in all the bathrooms. I have never installed any tile before, but wondered if it is too difficult to do myself. We did plan to hire someone, but they charge much more for marble installation than for ceramic. I have heard that Durarock is a good idea to put on the subfloor, what else should we expect either in doing it ourselves, or hiring a contractor? All the bathrooms are relatively small, and there are only bathtubs installed. I look forward to hearing from you. Sincerely, Pamela, March 30, Reply |
| R1: I would say hire a professional. The difference between setting ceramic tile and natural marble is quite a lot. The only advice to give is check references, and see if you can view any work they may have done. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1615: Seven months ago,
we installed Jerusalem Stone (limestone) throughout our bathroom floor, shower, and surrounding the bathtub. During the installation process (a) many pieces of the stone tiles were severely scratched (resembles a brillo pad scratch), (b) many baseboard edges appear to have a "rippled" appearance, and (c) we cannot remove most of the grout on the tile surface. We have currently identified two companies in the Philadelphia area that does stone resurfacing. Do you know of any other companies? In your opinion, is it a simple process to remove such scratches and "ripples" from limestone? Also, we are questioning the installation of the limestone in our shower and surrounding our tub. We originially had ceramic tiles. The installer simply installed wonderboard over these tiles then installed the limestone. In essence, from the wall, we have ceramic, wonderboard, then limestone. Is this standard protocol? Any advise or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am very afraid to have the installer take care of the problems in fear of creating additional ones. I am panicking right now. Thank you, Amanda, March 29. Reply |
| R3:
Dear Amanda -- I
am " The Tile Guy" and have been a tile, stone , and mable contractor
for a while. You got screwed! First of all when you set stone you must use very good ( expensive ) sealer or you will spend more time trying to clean the faces than you did setting the stone. They didn't , and then proceeded to mar the faces by trying to scrub off the grout that would not release, rookie move. They gave up after they realized it was hopeless. YOU NEVER set stone over old ceramic tile. What a cheap guy. I have done hundreds of marble and stone tub surrounds. Would you put down a new carpet over the old one??? Whoever did your work was trying to make a quick buck. I am sorry to bring you the news I see it a lot and it never surprises me ; everyone thinks they are a tile guy, but there is a right way and a wrong way to do tile. Tile Guy. USA. |
| R2:
This is what good general contractors are for.. It sounds like the stone was handled improperly, it should not be scratched at all, perhaps they had polished stone and did a horrendous job trying to hone it. Also maybe they cut the stone with a bad blade and chipped the edge? Normally one would remove existing tile and properly prepare the space to accept a new stone installation. My advice, bite the bullet, hire a good general contractor and do the job right. Alex, USA. |
| R1: From the sound of it the installer is not the culprit here. The material many times comes this way. The process of installing the limestone over the tile is not technically a bad choice. The real problem I see is that the material was not adequately inspected before installation. I believe that you should call the refinishing or installation company with the best references to come over and look at the job. They should tell you what should be done. Regards, Steven, USA, |
| A 1614: During the installation of a new slate fireplace hearth. a small hole appeared in the black slate. The hole is about 1-1/2" long and approx 3/8" wide. How can I fill the hole? It was recommended that I use black grout, but is this the best method? Jeff, Canada, March 29, Reply |
| R1: How does a hole just appear? I think that grout should be o.k. Buy two types. One sanded and one unsanded. Fill the hole till it is only 1/8" deep with the sanded grout. Let it cure. Then go over it with the unsanded grout. Regards, Steven, USA, |
| A 1607: I am planning to install 12" x 12" limestone tiles in my dining room. Is there a method to check whether the tiles have dried. I have been given to understand that the tiles have to be dried before sealing. Rob. March 28. Reply |
| R1: The drying times after placement vary from stone to stone and depend on the amount of humidity in the subsoil. This can be checked by attaching plastic foil with Scotch tape on various places of the floor for 24 hours. If condensation should appear on the foil, this means that the floor still contains some moisture and may not be dry. Swarup. India |
| A 1606: What do you mean by Calibrated tiles? Jack, March 28. Reply |
| R1: Calibrated tiles, which are tiles that are milled according to thickness, can easily be glued to the surface . One can directly glue on to the surface ,preferably with a glue that is not water based or with a cement glue.When the tiles are glued to the surface, the time to harden will be considerably shorter compared to the traditional placement method, whereby tiles are placed on a mortar bed. India. |
| A 1599: I had a backsplash of Calico Multi Slate installed in the kitchen, and lots of grout was left in the uneven parts of the tile, Any suggestions for removing it? Ried, March 27. Reply |
| R1: There are various cleaning solutions sold through your tile store. Don't start with a strong acid solution first. Recognize the bulk of the work will be tedious. Regards, Steven, USA, |
| A 1594: We just installed porcelain tile and the grout got in to the grooves of the tile. How can this be removed? We already tried "haze cleaner", but this did not help. Thanks! Resig. March 26. Reply |
| A 1587: We have purchased
12"x12" granite stone tiles to apply over our existing built up laminate
countertop. What preparation do we need to do on the existing countertop
to apply the granite stone? What is the installation process to apply
the granite stone. What adhesive do you recommend? Our kitchen countertop
is L shaped. We have just purchased a new slide in range to replace our
cook-top (which we will have to cut out) and will be purchasing an overlay sink. Please advise to us "do-it yourselfer's". Thanks, Lori, March 25. Reply |
| A 1578: Need information on how to install marble tile for a fireplace surround and hearth. Jim, March 22. Reply |
| R1: Jim, There are manuals and books that will help you install the marble. Buy one! or hire a professional tile installer with references to do it for you. Generally though you should decide how wide the grout joints will be. See how flat and plumb everything is and then use a white thin set with additive instead of water to install it. Good Luck Steven, USA, |
| A 1570: I am installing tumble marble as a backsplash. I will be applying sanded grout before sealing. If I wait 24 hours, will a cleaner help remove the grout haze without affecting the grout? Otherwise, what should I do to avoid grout haze? I later intend to use color enhancer. Thanks for your help. Rodolfo, March 21. Reply |
| R1: Dear Rodolfo: Don't you worry about damaging grout while cleaning the film residue off the stone surface. Remember though, if you want to color enhance your tumbled marble you have to apply the color enhancer BEFORE sealing, not after. If you seal first, the sealer will inhibit the enhancer from being absorbed by the stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, |
| A 1567: I have been seeing some pictures of granite countertops with what appear to be drainage grooves immediately beside the under mount sinks. I assume that area would act like a drying space for wet pots, pans, etc, allowing the water to drain back into the sink. I think I understand the pros of this set up but what are the cons in such a fabrication? Tom, March 21. Reply |
| R1: It is expensive. Not all fabricators can do it. Regards, Steven, USA |
| A 1560: Not one guy has mentioned the old fashioned (and proven) wire reinforced float? We are and for generation hard surface contracting company. Does anyone float any more? John, March 20. Reply |
| R1: Yes, It is still done. But newer substrates and products are used more frequently. Regards, Steven, USA, |
| A 1553: I have a bad seam where the bullnose edge is laminated. Can it be fixed. March 18. Richard, Reply |
| R1: Dear Richard: Most likely, NO. Maurizio, USA, |
| A 1535: I am working on
a Church where we have an interior slate stair. We are trying to detail
the stair and I have some questions. The stairs are 6'-0" wide and
have a support at either end and at the center of the tread. The tread
is approx 13" deep. 1. We have detailed the stairs and we are thinking of making the stone span a little less than 3'-0" between supports. Given this distance what would be the recommended thickness I should make the tread? 2. We are considering using slate but if we can not do this with slate would you recommend granite or limestone? Koji, USA. March 13. Reply |
| A 1527: I recently had 2 countertops installed. We used laticrete sp100 epoxy grout. In a few areas the grout seems a little low. I worry about chipping on the unprotected edges. I still have a table top to grout with the same epoxy and I was wondering if I can go back over these few areas and add a thin top off in the low joints. Thom. March 13. |
| R2: Dear Thom: You shouldn't have a problem. Epoxy bonds to epoxy, even if the first application is completely cured. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, |
| R1: The grout that is missing needs to be 1/3 of the entire depth of the stone or the epoxy grout will not stick. Rebecca, USA, |
| A 1509: I want to cast my own table top concrete/terrazzo pieces. So, I would be adding small aggregates like marble etc. to a mold. Where could I get the small chips of stone (approx.4MM) and then what could I use to grind or sand down, then polish without buying really expensive equipment? I have a nice wood shop with wood tools like palm, belt, orbital. Can they be adapted to work? Thank You!! John, March 8. Reply |
| R1: Hi John: It would take for ages, but if your up for it here is a relatively cheap and cheerful method. Either cast the chips in neat cement or trowel them in. Using an angle grinder (7" or 9" is easier to get flat), backing pad and 36 silicon carbide, resin backed disk, grind of the surface keeping the tool moving at all times in as many directions as possible. Go on to use approx. 80, 150, 240, 400 and to 600 is probably about as good as you will get. Get a dust mask or an apron and do it wet, either lots of water or none. A worthwhile investment would be some diamond hand pads and use these once it is flattened with the coarser grades. Remember ! in any account be sure each grade has stopped biting before you go on to the next. It's hard to be any more exact as it is often a matter of just looking at the job and using your experience. Bryan, UK. |
| A 1505: What is the margin of error in the sub-floor's level of flatness? For example - We have poured a self-leveling underlayment, and yet when we lay our tiles out in a dry run, there is still some tilting to the tiles. However, the manufacturer recommends 1/4 inch trowel for applying the mastic, so is this going to absorb some of the uneveness? Also, do you cut marble tile the same way you cut ceramic tiles? Andrea, March 8. Reply |
| R1:
First - you do not use mastic to install marble - you will find the trowel
marks to be visible on the face after installation. You must use marble set to install the marble as it has all of the correct properties. You can also trowel it slightly higher or lower in spots to adjust the height of the marble. I would personally at this point hire a professional and not try to do this my self. It is not as easy as it looks. Rebecca. USA, |
| A 1491: I almost ready to
begin installing a slate floor and counter tops in my kitchen. Question # 1 - Is there any thing that I can do to prevent the grout from staining the unsealed slate during the grouting process? I would rather prevent than spend the hours cleaning and fixing... Question # 2 - Does anyone have any particular do/don'ts when dealing with un-gauged Indian Slate? Dave, March 4. Reply |
| R2: Just Seal with the best sealant available. Use a sealant that is colorless. It is available in the market. Paul, USA, Reply |
| R1: Dear Dave: Yes, I do have a list of DOs 'n' DON'Ts when dealing with Indian slate in a kitchen. It's a very short list: DON'T! Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Reply |
| A 1386: I'm finishing a wet bar in the basement with a set of base cabinets butting a studded, drywall, 42" wall upon which will set an 8 ½ foot x 24" wide 3cm granite. Since the granite will essentially be balanced on a 4 ½" wide wall, the question arises as to how to adequately brace the countertop. Even with 3cm granite, the builder plans to use a plywood base and support it with metal brackets. He's not committed to a specific number, and I'm trying to find out the 'sense of the community'. This is most important to me in that I'm making some final decisions about decoration for the exterior wall of the bar, and want to match up some decorative corbels to help hide the brackets. Any ideas or suggestions? Kevin, Jan 30, Reply |
| R2: The spans between the center supports should be no more than 24" or 61 cm the countertop in 3 cm material should not cantilever with out support more than 10" or 25 cm. Hope this helps. Regards, Steven, USA, Reply |
| R1: The builder is doing the right thing. The heavy stone needs support. It will not hold on without supports. Have you considered Granite Columns to support the hanging corners. You can get round columns. Alternatively stack up small squares of granite 3" thick in the form of an arch. This can be made by using small 4" x 4" square pieces of granite and placed on top of each other in such a manner that you get a perfect arch. Regards, Arun, India, Reply |
| Thanks for your replies. The keys for me are the width between braces, so 24" was the magic number. The installers won't measure the job until the cabinets are in, but I need to order the corbels now. Kevin, Reply |
| A 1369: What's the best way to install granite tiles over a cement slab (i.e. no joist underneath)? Dough Jan 24. Reply |
| R4: The best way is to use an epoxy. Regards, Arun, India, Reply |
| R3:
You can use a thin-set method. Apply thin-set to uniform thickness. Position tile over bed: Push or twist tile into place to achieve desired elevation: Check for levelness of entire floor: Check for lippage from tile to tile (no more than 1/32"): Grout floor and work grout into joints: Pull grout float over tile surface to remove grout off tile: Use sponge and clean water-clean residue from face, edges, & corners of tile: I would go one extra step and put down an isolation/water proof membrane the day before. Installation method courtesy of the MIA, Good Luck, Steven, USA Reply |
| R2: Please see the attached details that depict several options for granite and stone installations. Hope the info helps. Art, USA Reply |
| R1: Dear Dough: Level the cement slab using a self-leveling hydraulic cement, apply an anti-crack membrane, then set the tile on white thinset. Don't forget to take good care of your granite floor, once installed. Contact me, I can help you with that. Ciao, Maurizio, USA Reply |
| A 1367: I'm having material
problems! I paid for "tumbled beige travertine".
When the stone arrived - the edges of the travertine have a beveled-look.
Most were chipped badly and ALL had bad grinder wheel scratches that were
quite obvious & deep. Edges look sloped. I strongly dislike grout,
and am under the impression that this type stone is installed with a "butted-edge",
so shouldn't it have sharper edges? This is my 2nd shipment (so they say)
that I have refused. (They said they went through and picked out the best
ones, but there is no way that's the truth unless they were blind)! 1.) I need to know what the edges (12x12 tiles) should look like. They should not be dramatically "filed-off" or beveled looking, should they??? The sample from which I made my choice and purchase was not all cracked, grinder-scratched nor chipped. 2.) I want the placement as tight as possible, eliminating as much grout as possible. If it's beveled off, won't it look wavy and dipped? Help! The installer said they weren't "tumbled out". I ordered this Dec. 21, 2001... So, I'm feeling a sense of desperation- yet, I don't want to settle for shoddy materials. Trish, Jan 24, Reply |
| R6:
I read your mail with grief, You should not have received the container
in that condition. Briefly, let me explain who we are. We are a natural
stone supplier from Turkey with 14 quarries and 4 factories, all are in
production. (I hope the container you received is not from Turkey) We have been in stone business for more than 20 years. Our USA office is in NJ. There are several finishes on the travertine tiles as follows: Filled / Honed- all holes should be filled, and all 4 sides should be beveled, no cracks, chips on the stone. When you install it, it should be tight, no space between tiles. Tumbled Trav, should come out of the tumbling machine, edges should be rounded slightly, there are still holes on the stone, because you cannot fill the holes, and tumble it at the same time. This should be indicated to you from the beginning, if you fill the holes, and tumble it, all fillings will come out during the tumbling process. Please call if you need to talk about it, I will try to help as much as I can. Best regards, Ms. Gonca, Turkey |
| R5: Most probably they have cheated. There should not be any difference from the sample of the stone or delivery of the stone which has sent to you. You should contact your lawyer. If you still need stone, please contact us or some professional firm who has been doing this business for years. Kind regards. Didem, Turkey. |
| R4: It is unacceptable behavior in international trade. After this experience, you must be more careful about your trade. You must make trade with honest and expert firms. Good luck... Turkey. |
| R3:
DEAR TRISH, IF YOU HAVE ORDERED TUMBLED BEIGE TRAVERTINE THEN THE EDGES
WOULD HAVE TO BE SMOOTH, NO SHARP EDGES ARE ALLOWED WITH THE TUMBLED MATERIAL. IF YOU WANT PROPER BEVELLING, THEN THE EDGES OF THE 12X12 SHOULD BE RAZOR SHARP. THIS IS THE STANDARD FOR BEVELLING WHICH SHOULD BE AT 45 DEGREES TO THE HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL PLANES. IF THERE IS A BEVEL IT WOULD BE BEST IF YOU INSTALLED THEM TIGHT AND WITH NO GROUT. IF THEY WERE PROPERLY TUMBLED, THEN MY SUGGESTION WOULD BE TO INSTALL THEM WITH A 3-4 MM GROUT. THAT WAY THEY WOULD LOOK GREAT TO ME. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED ANY MORE HELP. WITH KIND REGARDS, LEVENT, Turkey, |
| R2: When you are ordering the goods you have to mention that you want the edges unbevelled. But only the surface patinated. Otherwise they will do workmanship for the edges. this chipping seems that the material is ruined or belonging to ancient times. That is why they chipped the edges. Before order in the material must be specified properly. Best regards. Murat, Turkey |
| R1: Dear Trish: Tumbled travertine does not have (because of the tumbling process) straight edges, therefore it is not the right tile for a tight installation (1/16"). Maurizio, USA |