| Q
5987: We
had a limestone (16 inch x 16 inch) tile floor installed in a kitchen and
the contractor was not very good. The floor was uneven to begin with and
should have been leveled before the tile installation. The floor wasn't
leveled and we used a VERY small grout line. Some tiles adjacent to each
other are slightly uneven. Can these uneven tiles be SANDED down or can
something else be done to make it appear more level. We certainly don't
expect perfection but wanted to know if it could somehow be improved?
. Dec 19, reply |
| R1:Probably.
Get ahold of a real professional stone refinisher, Jvc, Expert Panelist |
| Q
5980: We
recently had a limestone hearth installed but it still has not been polished.
The saw marks are still evident and it is installed on a concrete base and
sits 2.5 inches above a maple floor. I am looking to finish the stone for
the best wear and durability. Any suggestions your end would be appreciated.The
edges have been chipped with a chisel to give a rough effect and I want
to be sure if something further needs to be done to finish / maintain that
it is done properly. Have you experienced any problems with this material
in this application? How should the underlying areas around where the floor
meats the slab be best addressed..Thanks and enjoyed all the articles I've
read, Brgds Bob, Dec 19, Reply |
| R1:
Hi
Bob, I am assuming that the saw marks are on the flat, top surface of the
hearth piece. They should have been sanded out by the fabricator, or the
mason installing the piece. No problem, you can do this yourself, start
with 36 or 40 grit, and work up to the desired finish. In my shop, most
limestone is finished to only 100 or 120 grit, which is finer than a typical
mill finish. As to bringing the surface up to a polish, this will depend
on the limestone you have. Many limestones will never polish no matter how
long and hard you work on them, and those that will (very compact limestone)
are often marketed as marble. Good luck with the project, and make sure
you do something to contain the dust you are going to create. JVC, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
5977: I
have a new, polished black marble vanity top in my bathroom. No one ever
told me I could not clean it with bathroom cleaners to be sure disinfected
. . . Tonight I sprayed on Comet bathroom cleaner and have ruined my top.
A friend lent me her marble cleaner and polish, but to no avail. There are
white splotches all over my top. What can I do?! I am just sick. Stephanie,
Dec 16, Reply
|
| R1:Dear
Stephanie: There is only a solution to your problem: you have to hire a
bona fide stone restoration contractor who will slightly grind (hone) and
re-polish your vanity top back to its original finish. Hey, it's only money!
And BTW, don't you forget to send a heartfelt thank-you note to the people
who sold you the countertop, for the good advice they gave you about its
maintenance requirements. Maurizio, Expert panelist. |
| R2:
Use
a black granite restorer. It will require a polisher and stel wool pads
and abut two hours, Don |
| R3:
Comet and Ajax are two bleach products that will color spot your granite.
Some good news is that a professional restoration company can remove those
color spots most of the time. You really shouldn't use any home cleaning
products on marble or granite because most of them contain acids that can
burn the polish and eventually burn your stone. Any local tile distributors
should carry daily stone cleaners. But at this point i wouldn't try to fix
it myself and would contact your local stone restoration company. |
| Q
5975: I
am currently redoing my kitchen. I want to use either marble or limestone
for my counters. After reviewing your site I have pretty much given up using
limestone. Are there certain marble types that are better than others for
countertops (color, honed or polished)? My favorite is Carrara. Second favorite
is Sahara Gold. Shelbey, Dec
16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Shelbey: If you don't mind the "change" the stone will go
through over time due to use and abuse, then Honed White Carrara (low hone)
is "your man". Maurizio, Expert panelist. |
| Q
5974: I
have recently bought and laid an untreated French Limestone floor which
I imported from Paris.Now that it has been laid, I am trying to clean it
properly before I treat it.There are blooming marks and water marks which
I have been able to remove,however there are paint splashes(white water
based) that I just cannot remove.I dont want to damage the floor.Can you
suggest anything???? Thanks, enirco,
Dec 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Enirco (or is it Enrico?): If you use a paint stripper based on Methylene
Chloride (available at any hardware store) it will not damage the stone.
Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you
can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5970: I
have Uba Tuba granite countertops in my kitchen. Two slabs were laminated
together on the edge to make the overhang, and the seam connecting them
is quite visible, although it is very narrow. The installer said this was
due to the crystalline structure of the stone and that nothing could be
done about it. It isn't terribly unsightly except when the sun shines right
on the edge of the granite. So, is it unfixable? Thanks for your help. Ellen,
Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eleen: The lamination of an edge is one of those areas where you separate
the men from the boys. Certain "granites" will "show"
more than others. Ubatuba, due to its crystalline structure is one of those
that show the least. But then again, it is visible somehow, and the perception
of "quite visible" varies greatly from an individual to another.
Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5969: I
put conglomerate marble throughout my entire house including half way up
the wall in the bathroom and my entire master shower. I wish I had seen
this web site before I did it. My problem is the tile is turning white in
the shower and not from any deposits in my water. It also looks like it
is dulling in front of my front door. It looks good otherwise. Is there
anything I can do to restore the luster? What should I use for cleaning?
It looks fine when wet. I would be glad to pay for this information but
couldn't figure out how to pay and ask at the same time.Can you help me?
Peggy, Dec 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Peggy: Well, the way it works is: first you pay and then you ask! :-) I
do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be
told), but I'll be glad to help. What's more I will even tell you how to
get all of your money back! What more do you want from me? :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5968:I am building a new house,what kind of marble flooring should i use
for the indoor entrance area as well as ther bathroom floors and walls...polished
versus the other types....giorgio, Dec 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Giorgio: Most marbles are quite suitable. Polished versus honed? Which one
do you like better? They will both require maintenance, but polished will
turn out to be easier to do. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5967: My
question is I have two slabs of this avanza natural quartz countertop. There
is a huge scratch that is rather deep along the front of one of them. How
in the world can i fix this ? Or what type of material would be best to
use in my attempts to fix this. and then sand it out. What is the best sealant
to put on afterwards? Any help would be great. As I have found no body in
mississippi to even come look and attempt to help me figure it out.I was
thinking your products would help me however, i just don't know that much
about theses avanza made countertop material to know what is WRONG and what
is RIGHT.? any advise you could provide would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
a million, Judi, Dec 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Judi: "Avanza" is a particular type of engineered stone that's
different from the mainstream because of the way is made and shaped. I am
not at all familiar with any possible means and procedures to repair it.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5966: we
purchased (have not yet received) a travertine 47' round table made of travertine.
We were told that no maintenance was required. If we dropped mustard or
red wine, etc. on the table would it stain and how would we remove it, if
it did. Does the table require a sealer and if yes how often. Len, Dec 15,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Len: Your travertine table top does require a sealer all right. It's called:
glass!No impregnator/sealer or topical sealer under the sun will ever prevent
acid etching ("water stains' or "rings"). The idea of having
a sheet of glass cut to size and put on top of the travertine is the only
final solution possible. A few of my customers followed that advice and
are quite happy! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5962: I have had Madura Gold granite countertops installed in my kitchen
recently. After installation and having paid alot of money for it, I noticed
that the stone's finish is not absolutely smooth and there are some knicks
in it. I called the installer and they told me that this is the way Madura
Gold is... that you will have knicks in it and there is nothing they could
do about it. I am very upset about this as it looks like it is defective
and I paid good money for it. Could you tell me if this is true about this
type of stone? Your advice is appreciated. Thanks. Marilyn, Dec
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marilyn: Without actually seeing the alleged severity
of the nicks you're reporting I can't make a final assessment, but pitting
is common to all true geological granites and most commercial granites,
too. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5961: We have just installed polished marble in the shower and tumbled marble
on the shower floor. Please advise if the sealer will fill the pitted holes
in the tumbled marble, or do we fill them with the grout. Also please advise
what cleaner to use in the shower, and on the floor, and if we should we
should avoid certain types of soaps. Thankyou. Maureen, Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Maureen: Far what I can understand you have tumbled travertine in your
shower stall floor. Terrific stone, mind you, but you must fill the holes
with unsanded grout. About the types of soap to be avoided, as a general
rule liquid soaps are better than bars. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5960: We
are updating our kitchen and we think we are going with Uba Tuba granite
for the counter tops. I’ve had three people warn me to stay away from
black granite because it will show water spots and looks terrible. My kitchen
has a lot of sunlight coming in too which I fear will make it worse. Is
this advice I should be concerned about? Nancy, Dec
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nancy: First off, the last time a checked Ubatuba was green, not black.
Second, the main reason why black granite (and Ubatuba, too) show "water
stains" is because most fabricators are convinced that black granite
and Ubatuba are granite, and what they have "learned" (by the
salesmen) is that all granites need to be sealed or else! So, they religiously
seal everything in sight that doesn't move, including their own brains!
If you will not seal your Ubatuba, you will never have to worry about "water
stains", nor any other stain, I promise!Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5959: I
recently had a rosewood counter top installed. The contractor sealed it
twice. Someone in my house left a soiled pot on it and now I have a circular
stain on the granite. How can I remove the stain when I don't know what
type of stain it is. Liz,
Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Liz: You're gonna have to play detective! Try to poultice it with HP first,
and if that won't work, try acetone. When it comes to stain removal, either
you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5958: We
have bought a brand new home from Lennar and upgraded the kitchen/entry
flooring to marble. When we inspected the work, we were upset and horrified
to find many of the tiles being uneven and misaligned. Upon our notification
to the builder, they promptly replied that "This has been checked and
is in accordance to industry standards for tolerance." We've since
been scouring the internet and asking local contractors for such "standards"
but have had no luck. Can you enlighten us by explaining what these standards
are and what organization backs them up? Thank you.Charlie, Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlie: The industry standard for "lippage" on marble tiles
is 1/32" and it is sanctioned by both the National Tile Council of
America and the Marble Institute of America. If you can tell all those "lips"
by just looking at your floor, it only means that they are way beyond standards!
Demand to have the whole thing ripped out and done anew by somebody not
even remotely related in any way to the "Michelangelo" (lowest
bidder, I'm sure!) who pretended to do the installation job at your place.
To tell you the truth, having experienced Lennar's reputation first hand,
there are good chances that the whole installation, from the sub-floor up
is faulty. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| R2:
In
the tile industry the standards are very vague. In the 75 years of experience
my family has we've seen terrible jobs pass and good ones not pass. In California
our standard is the floor must be flat by a 1/4" per 8 feet. Your tile
lines must be straight within a 1/8" per 8 feet. Now from corner to
corner your tiles may look off but that sometimes results from the stone
being out of square itself. I've had stone come 1/4" out of square
in 12X12 which makes it hard to keep every corner perfectly lined up. But
overall when you look at it it should be straight. The other standard is
there should be no lip or edge of a tile sticking up higher then a nickel.
You can fix that by marble refinish company come grind and refinish the
floor. We have a organization called TCA which stands for Tile Contractors
Association who is supposed to enforce the standards.
|
| |
| Q
5954: Is
it necessary to seal ubatuba and tropic brown granite. The stone will be
used for counter tops. I am getting different answers. Can you please set
the record straight, Rick, Dec
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rick: Nobody can set the record straight for sure, considering that
we're dealing with products of nature. Ubatuba seldom needs to be sealed
(almost never that is). With Tropic Brown there are more chances. But there
are easy ways to find out for sure! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5953:We have some unpolished granite in our entrance way which has been
waxed over the past 40 years. we would now like to remove the was as it
has yellowed. What is the method of removing this old wax. Jcolbet,
Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jcolbet: Yes, of course. You can contact a Janitor Supply Company in
your area and buy a wax stripper. They will also tell you how to go about
it. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q
5951: We
wanted to install Travertine throughout our downstairs. We need to know
if you can lay Trevertine over old secure tile or if we need to pull up
old tile first? Please let us know? Jennefier, Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Jennifer: Too many variables to consider in order to give you a half decent
answer. Just keep in mind that travertine needs special care and, usually,
it does not need to be sealed (especially when it's polished). Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5950: What
is the best way to care for polished dark granite countertops, particularly
for removing water spots? I was told that mineral oil was good, but that
just seems to smear. Lindia, Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Lindia: Mineral oil is no good, and you already found that out! If you have
"water stains" the problem is more serious that meet the eyes.
In fact, you should NOT have "water stains" one any commercial
granite. I must assume that your countertop was sealed with an impregnator/sealer
by the fabricator, while you obviously have "granite" that did
not need to be sealed. The "water spots" you have are probably
due to the presence of the stupid impregnator that had no business being
there to begin with! Have your fabricator come out and strip the ting off
your countertop and live happily ever after. If for any chance they don't
know how to do it (it's not easy), tell them that I'll be glad to teach
them for a consultation fee. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5949: I
am constructing a shower stall and I have a vinyl pan and Portland floor
that will have ceramic tile. I now want to install 12X12 granite slab tiles
on the walls. The walls presently have been prepared with durarock. Question...
Do I use normal thinset to adhere the granite slabs ( 1/4 inch thick ) to
the durarock? Next do I butt them to each other? How do I seal the joint
or is this necessary? Will the grey granite holdup in a shower stall? do
I have to seal the granite with anything and if so how often? Your help
is greatly appreciated. Thank you. George, Dec
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
George: I will answer your question in the same order they were asked: 1)
Use white thin-set. 2) NEVER butt-joint!! 1/16" grout gap is an absolute
must for proper grouting. Use sand-less grout and mix it with latex additive
even if it has the stuff in the bag already; keep it a little bit on the
thick side and make sure that you push it as deep as possible in between
the pieces of slab. Take your time: the proper grouting of a shower stall
is vital! Use color matching caulking in the corners. 3) The question about
sealing the joints is moot after my previous answer. 4) It depends. Does
your "granite" need to be sealed? Run my little lemon juice test
to find out. If it does, I recommend you use my MB-4 Stone Impregnator.
It comes with a 10-year warranty! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
Q
5947: I was trying to clean a blackberry mark from my black galaxy counter
with a sponge, and I stupidly turned the sponge over and used the "green
scrubber" side.
It did clean the berry mark, but left a dull mark with tiny scratches. It
isn't terrible, but I would like to restore this little mark to its original
lustre. I do believe the granite was sealed by the fabricator and has always
cleaned up nicely. Any suggestions??? Thanks for your help, Barbara Matthews,
Dec 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barbara: The fact that the "granite" was sealed by your fabricator
has nothing to do with it. Actually, consider yourself lucky that the sealing
didn't create any problem (Black Galaxy should NOT be sealed). That said,
there is absolutely nothing that you can do about that. Stone is polished
by abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by applying some sort of finish
onto it. Basically, you scratched the stone surface, not a sealer of sorts.
Only a proven stone restoration professional could fix your damage. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5946: I am having a contractor install a new Granite counter top in my kitchen.I
am helping him with some of the labor to reduce cost. He instructed me first
to remove the current tile counter top and remove the cement under that,
and install 3/4 inch plywood,immediatly over the cabinets. which I did.
But when he came by to make the template for the counter top, he said that
the plywood should be 5/8 inch and not 3/4 inch, and he said that the plywood
might show and bull nose might not cover it all. He recommended that I should
change the plywood to 5/8"
I already
purchased the 3/4 inch and installed it, nailed and glued. Yest I am spending
a fortune on the new Granite. I would like to know if it makes a difference
to change it the surface to 5/8 inch, or is the 3/4" OK. By the way
the thickness of the Granite slab is 3/4 inch, but the contractor says
that some slabs might not be exactly 3/4 inch. Please advise as soon as
you can since we are ready to
install the granite. I appreciate your advise and thank you so very much
for your help and valuable information, Fadwa Tarazi, Dec 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Fadwa Tarazi: Your contractor is 100% right on this one! . Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5944: We unfortunately installed a sandy colored limestone in the master
bath.It's impossible to keep clean. Can limestone be glazed or is there
any sort of finishing product that will prevent it from always looking dirty?
The contractor left behind a sealant, which has an appearance and texture
of a clear, lightweight soapy liquid. It's useless. Marcie, Dec 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marcie: As far as I am concerned, the answer is, NO. But, hey, you
can always go back to the merchant who sold the stuff to you. They know
everything about limestone and then some! After all they buy and sell lots
of it! I am sure that they will prove me wrong! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5943: We
just put granite tile on our countertops. However, the grout color lightened
up by about two shaded and now looks grey instead of the brown that matched
the Tropic Brown tiles. Any suggestions? I thought about sealing the tile
and the grout with a sealant that would make it look wet.Do I need to seal
the Granite or just the grout? Kelly,
Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Kelly: There are products to stain grout that work quite well. Only after
you stained the grout to the color you want, will you seal the whole thing
with my MB-4 (of course!). Tropic Brown is a dense stone, but it still needs
to be sealed. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q
5941: My
installer layed "hardybacker" down first (over wood subfloors),
then used thinset to install the travertine tiles. Now I can see small cracks
running parrallel the entire length of the kitchen. The cracks appear to
follow where the hardybacker was butted to each other. Do I have to have
the floor removed? What should have been used on top of the subfloor? Greta,
Dec 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Greta: Any given material is as good as the operator who uses it. There's
nothing wrong with using hardy board over plywood, but there several issues
to be reckoned with to ensure an overall good installation. For what you're
telling us, yes, your floor must be ripped out. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| |
| Q
5938: There
is a paucity of information regarding the interpretation of granite specs/standards.
For example, one sees hardness levels from 6 to 7 Mohs and I know that higher
is better but higher means that the stone has a higher quartz content which
makes it more susceptible to water absorption. Bottom line, which stones
have good resistance to stains and make good kitchen counter tops? Bobbie,
Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Bobbie: There is little relation between the hardness of commercial granites
and their quartz content. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5935: we
just installed in our kitchen, and we noticed a lot of hairline cracks.
i've been reading that fissure are normal. is this normal for all granite?
do we need to seal it? or did we get "bad" granite? where does
it originate - (we were told it's italian)? thanks! Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
I assume that you're talking about a granite countertop. Airline cracks?...
Fissures are not common to all "granites", but they are usually
only a few inches log at best, and easily recognizable. Lots of hairline
cracks are only the premonition of more serious problems to come. I sincerely
hope that I am wrong on this one. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5933: We just ordered 4"x4" limestone tiles to place in our foyer.
After reading the questions submitted on your site, I'm not so sure we should
install this type of product in the main hallway. I thought this product
was very dense and therefore fairly resistant to stain but many of the questions
submitted were about stains. Would you recommend limestone for a hallway
and if so, what sort of treatment would we use after installation. We will
be attempting installation ourselves, is there any tricks of the trade you
could suggest to make this less painless, and, how much grout is recommended.
It doesn't appear that you use much between the tiles, I think the idea
is to have the floor appear somewhat seamless. Is that correct? Any assistance
you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Glo,
Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Glo: While most limestone will lead to a successful installation, there
are too many cases with unsolvable problems (see posting Q 5924 below) for
me to advise anybody to use such material. Hone-finished marble would be
a much better choice. That said, you need to use white thin-set and leave
a 1/16" gap for proper grouting (Sandless grout only). "Butt-joint"
installation is a big NO-NO. Now, remember, it's never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
5932: I
had my kitchen done in granite last year. It is less than a year old. My
problem is I am noticing some small chips in certain areas of the counter
tops.
We are not miss using the granite in any way. Everything I have read says
the only thing that can cause it to chip is severe mis use.Any comments
or suggestions would greatly be apprieciated, Lisa,
Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Lisa: What kind of "chips" are you exactly talking about? Chips
on the edges of the countertop, or in the middle of it? If they are on the
edges you must have hit the stone with some blunt object. If they are in
the middle … have you been using some sort or glass cleaner or some
home-brewed concoctions to clean your counter on a daily basis for any chance?
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
5930: There
is a lady in my town who has what she says "is a very rare piece of
marble." I need to know it this is true or if you know where I can
obtain information about this type of marble. She called it Rose DeMaskus
(I'm not sure of the spelling).
She said it's an italian marble that she had shipped from a closed mine
in Brazil. She said she had an entire slab shipped over to Louisiana and
had her entire bathroom finished with the Rose DeMaskus. I don't know anything
about marble so I need to know if I should consider purchasing this piece
of marble from her.
She has the counter top piece which she says is approx. 1/6th of a slab.
(It looks like it's approx. 3' x 4'). It appears to be in excelllent condition
except for one end has been broken off. The other end is smooth and polished.
Can I find this marble elsewhere or would it be in my best interest to purchase
the marble piece from her and what should I pay for the marble piece? Also,
I would need to get the raw end cut and polished and approx. how much would
I expect to pay for that service?
Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Debra, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Debra: An Italian marble quarried in Brazil??? How would you call a Brazilian
marble, then?! I know that there are lots of Italian emigrants in Brazil,
but they are usually people. I never heard of a whole quarry of marble moving
to another country!! :-) That story is enough to make me go: Mmm... Look,
if you like the stuff (whatever that is) and the price is something that
you feel comfortable with (please, don't ask me how much it should cost!),
then buy it. If not, leave it there! About the repair you should get hold
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor to find out about the charge.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5929: I'm
hoping you can help answer the question of how to clean flagstone used as
flooring indoors. We recently renovated a 1920 cottage using Wiarton flagstone
in the porch, bathroom, mudroom and first floor bedroom. Sadly, shortly
after completing the work we experienced a terrible flood which brought
a tremendous amount of water and topsoil into the house saturating the flooring
along with the grout. I have tried acid washing them but with little result.
Can you recommend what else might work and what we could seal them with
that wouldn't leave them shiny or discolored. Paula, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Paula: Did you consult with the dealer who sold the stuff to you? If they
can't tell you what to do, I do believe I have the solution to your problem.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5926: I
purachase a granite counter top. It is called "Pepperino" I have
had problems since day 1 with staining. I am in the process now of cleaning
some stains with a poultice of Acetone and paper towels as you recommended.
Can you advise me as to what kind of stone I have because it seems that
everything that touches it stains it. I have had the fabricator come back
on two different occasions and reseal but that was at least six months ago.
Do I have reeal granite or an imposter. It is suppose to be granite from
China.Thank you Doris, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Doris: Well, of course it is not granite! What else is new?! I jost so happen
to have seen this "Pepperino" stuff. Very absorbent stone! You've
got to know what you're doing when sealing it, and it does not seem to be
the "forte" of your installer. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
Q
5924: We have recently had limestone installed on the entire first floor
of our home. It extends from the front door, to the kitchen, dining, living
and bath areas. The problem after installation was a spotty, hazy white
finish only viewable from an angle (such as when you walk in the front door
and look at the floor). At first we were told by our installer that the
floor was dirty and just had to clean it. Upon doing so many, many times,
nothing changed. Then the installer told us he forgot to clean the floor
before sealing it. So, we fired the installer and got another installer.
This new installer spent two days stripping the floor (SMELLY!!!) and then
putting on two coats of "enhancer" to bring out the deep-richness
of the stone; which did look better, but didn't solve the white haze problem.
Then this new installer suggested coming back to "deep clean"
the floor again and then polish it with a polishing machine. Well again,
no difference! Now he wants to put a shiny top coat on the limestone, but
can't guarantee the outcome of our not wanting the white haze. Finally,
the new installer said "ya know, it might be bad limestone". Uugghh!!
Please give me thought on this nightmare flooring! It constantly looks dirty
no matter how much money we spend on it! Thanks and I look forward to hearing
from you. Theresa, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Theresa: I really hate to be the "I told you so" guy, but …
how many times have I advised people to stay away from limestone? Of course
I don't know exactly what happened to your limestone, but I can promise
you that your problem has no solution. Sorry. But, hey, you can always go
back to the merchant who sold the stuff to you. They know everything about
limestone and then some! After all they buy and sell lots of it! I am sure
that they will prove me wrong! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5923: Hi-we
are a church with a large narthex of what I think is Vermont tile. The surface
is multi-colored with uneven stones. It has dulled over time-it has been
down for 30 years. There are also a some white spots close to the edge of
the tiles near the walls. Do we need to deep clean and reseal? What would
you recommend? We would like a little shine-but not slippery for safety
reasons-can you help? Wesely,Dec
10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Wesley: The only piece of advice that I feel like giving you is to get hold
of a bona fide stone restoration outfit and let them assess your current
situation and the proper course of action to rectify it. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5922: We are considering honed slate as a countertop in the bathroom - it
is beautiful, and fairly low maintenance (so we were told). Could you please
tell me if honed slate would be suitable for a vanity countertop? And if
not, what would your top recommendation be for a vanity countertop? Thanks.
jackie, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Jackie: You're absolutely right: "So we were told"!!! Drive away
from it fast enough to leave skid marks on the ground! The top recommendation
would be the right "granite" of course, but there are several
other stones (marble included) that would fit the bill. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5921: I
have ubatuba granite countertops in my kitchen. The installer did something
wrong on one rectangular corner which left a cloudy finish. I am unable
to find the installer now and am trying to find some way to polish the countertop
so that the surface appears uniform. Is such a problem addressed in your
maintenance guide ? I appreciate your help! Janis, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Janis: No it is not. You won't find anything in a bottle that could solve
your problem. You need to hire a proven stone refinishing contractor to
do that. Needless to say, however, my maintenance guidelines wouldn't be
a waste of money, even if they don't solve that particular problem for you.
You still have to face routine maintenance of your top, don't you? :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5920: I have a soap stone shower base that I don't know how to care for.
I have used strong cleaners on it and now it is all white and dried out
looking. What do I do to fix this? Darlene, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Darlene: Try to soak it with mineral oil. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| Q
5918: I
love your web site. It is very informative. I have a more serious problem
than a typical rust stain. We have white Carrara marble shower and the veins
are rusting deep into the marble. I have tried a few things but can’t
seem to remove it. I am able to remove the surface rust stains using hydrogen
peroxide on paper towel covered in plastic.I have also tried poultice left
on for a week. I am concerned about dissolving the marble. Any thoughts
as to how to get rid of this deeper rusting? Thanks in advance for your
suggestions. Lloyd, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Lloyd: Nope! But if the rusting keeps coming up you have a problem of migration
of moisture through the core of the stone from behind the tiles. In layman
talk: you've got water behind them marble tiles. If that's the case, you're
in a world of hurt! Where the tiles set "butt-jointed" for any
chance? Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5915: My new Gallo St. Cecilia kitchen countertops developed a dark stain
(ring) around the sink sprayer about a week after it the plumber installed
the faucet, sprayer, handle and soap dispenser. I told him to be sure to
use the adhesive for granite so it would not bleed into the stone. He came
to look at it and said there was no water leak and assured me they used
the correct adhesive. I am still skeptical that by accident they used the
wrong stuff and then realized their mistake and used the correct stuff in
the other 3 drilled holes. The plumber says to talk to the granite guy but
since the problem did not develop until after the plumber installed the
faucet and sprayer, I don’t think the granite people will help me.
Would the poultice work on this type of stain? Thanks, Sandy, Dec
10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Sandy: If the plumber had used plumber's putty you would have had the stain
in a matter of a few hours, not a week. What I think is happening is that
when you use the sprayer there is a condensation of water in the part of
the piping hidden by the stone (it's like the condensation of water on the
outside of a glass filled with cold water). Such condensation gets absorbed
by the sides of the hole and shows up as a darkening or the surrounding
area. Ask for advice to your granite people on how to remove the stain first
and then solve the problem. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5914: Can
you use marble slabs for keeping foods warm? In order to do so can you heat
the slabs in the oven and or the microwave? JB,Dec
10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
JB: It depends on the marble. Most class "A" marble are suitable
for that purpose, but, as a general rule, using granite instead would be
much better. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5913: I just had a beige Gascogne limestone, 18 by 18, placed in my bathroom
a few days ago; I went out to look at the installation and noticed that
my limestone now looks humid and dark, When I chose these specific tiles(which
I hand picked), they were a light soft beige, dry looking. Is this change
normal???? The installer said he put on a sealant which he wasn't supposed
to do....but besides that, it just doesn't have the same beauty anymore.
Any Ideas? Also when I was out there a few days ago the "wet"
product they had on had an "oily" feel, I don't know if that helps?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Audrey,
Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Audrey: Let's just hope that the dark humid spots will disappear over time
as the setting material will cure and dry. If the installer used regular
thin-set (ooposed to the white one) you may have a permanent discoloration.
Sure enough, the premature application of an impregnator/sealer does not
help. The fact itself that you chose limestone for a bathroom environment
does not help, either. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5912: The
fellow at the stone store told us the granite was quarried in Brazil, and
available in the USA. The name of it was Emerald pearl granite. The granite
is black with pea size white flecks in it. We were told it was a good choice
for kitchen counter tops (he sells it, would he tell us it's a bad choice)?
I can't find this on your extensive list of granites. Can you help? Also
is resining done to all granite before the slabs are sent to the market
retailers, and how will I know if it is? The builder we're dealing with
has a good reputation and supposedly so does the stone store, but I'd rather
error on the side of caution. Carguy, Dec 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Carguy: No, not all "granites" are resined: only those that could
benefit from the process. Emerald Pearl (which is in the list of the 150
most popular granites) is a Larvikite from Norway and it's an excellent
choice for a kitchen countertop indeed! However, the way you describe it,
what you're dealing does not sound like it! In fact, Emerald Pearl is green,
not black with pea-size white flecks in it. At this point I don't know what
stone you're actually facing. Besides, I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| |
| Q
5910: I
built my house 10 years ago. My interior designer talked me in to using
polished black marble in my master bath, including the shower. Big mistake!
5 years ago I replaced the marble in the shower stall with Granirex. I am
wanting to get rid of the marble on the floor and also a Jacuzzi tub deck.
I came across Catalina granite and wondered how well it would hold up in
a bathroom? My house is very expensive and I want to reflect that in the
materials used. Is there some other stone that you would recommend that
is low maintenance and holds up well around water. I don't want to make
the same mistake again? Mark, Dec 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mark: I really don't know much about this "Catalina" "granite",
but there are indeed many stones that could be enjoyable, make a statement,
and be very easy to maintain. I Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5909: Have
been reading your messages. Could you please sent me "How to Shop for
a Kitchen Countertop. and also comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential
stone installations. We are considering a granite counter top..ubatuba..for
our remodel. HOw is this verses Caesarstone?thank you Vickie, Dec 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vickie: Ubatuba is better than engineered stone. About the two articles
you are requesting, they are available for a small fee (which could be refundable)
("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts"). Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
5908: I have a shower with beige limestone (I don't know what kind) walls
and
floor, installed about a year ago. The floor has developed a brown stain
which is also on the walls up to about 4". I have tried household cleaners
but the stain is still there.
A local stone expert told me he thought it was water seepage through the
grout or drain. The contractor who did the work recently died so I can't
go back to him.
This is the third try at the shower. The first two attempts were marble
rectangles on the walls which leaked water and deteriorated so the third
try was solid slabs of limestone.
Do you agree that it is probably water leakage? If so, what do I do about
it? If I don't do anything, how bad is it likely to get? Thanks. John,
Nov 29, Reply |
R1:
Hi John. Wish I had some more information about this, but in general, limestone
is a fairly absorbent stone, and even though I work with different limestones
daily, I would be hesitant to recommend one for a shower application. Questions
for you, Was the stone honed or polished?, was the stone sealed, and if
so with what, and how many applications? What "household cleaners"
have been used on the stone? (limestone is highly reactive to anything acidic)
Have you tried not using the shower for a period of time ( 2 weeks or so)
to see if the discoloration goes away. It may be that the stone is saturated
and the moisture is wicking up the walls, and it will need to dry out before
it can be properly sealed anyway. Or the problem could be with the drain
weepholes and the pan below the stone floor. I'm not at all qualified to
go into that other than to say that's a major problem. and probably means
a tear out and redue.
As a general discourse on limestone: limestone makes up the majority of
stone types exposed on the surface of this planet. To be classified as a
limestone it must be a sedimentary rock with at least 50% calcium carbonate
in it's composition. The other 50% can be composed of anything that may
have settled on the sea floor while the stone was being formed. These other
components have a tremendous effect on the structure, hardness, density,
appearance, and potential functionality of the formation. There are literally
thousands of limestone formations, but only a small percentage of these
are truly suitable for building purposes or dimensioned stone. In the part
of the world I live in there is a section of stone that is thousands of
feet thick, and covers some 60 million years of sedimentary deposition.
Much of this section is composed of limestone formations, but there are
maybe 4 or 5 that are used for building stone, and less than that for dimensioned
stone. The rest, for one reason or another, are pretty much worthless for
this purpose, but are valuable in other ways such as crushed rock for road
base, agricultural lime, a component in portland cement etc. In today's
booming natural stone market there are many many stones of different types
that are being marketed for purposes they are not suited for. That is the
result of no industry regulations or standards, and why my friend Maurizio
talks about education before the sale. Unfortunately, many of those that
need the education the most are too busy writingorders, and don't have time
to learn anything about the productsthey are selling. So we have forums
of this type full of tailsof woe, that hopefully help others make educated
choices, or eventually, the industry may shoot itself in the foot. That's
my two cents worth. JVC |
R1:Dear
john, from your question i see that the limestone cladding is not quite
old.
may be there is a water leak somewhere behind it.
my advise pull down the slabs check for any leaks, dry up the limestone
in sun. may be the water marks will go. if not go in for new slabs. but
first clear up any leak behind the slabs. if it is absorbing water from
the front side then it should soak up water all over the slab. since you
say it is only in patches it sure must be a leak behind the slabs.Dilip |
| Q
5907: I
am looking into making indoor bathroom sinks from blocks of either Thai
sandstone or Palimanan sandstone from Indonesia. I want a honed/polished
finish and I am wondering about the suitability of these stones for the
purpose and also what kind of water and stain resistant treatments I should
give them. Your advice would be appreciated, Thank you, John, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Limestone is not advisable for your requirement try granite. Dilip |
| Q
5906: Me
again about the green marble......I looked at the pictures. The weight veins
are more pronounced on mine....Cant really tell much on internet pictures
between the diffrent green marbles. I did take a piece and sprayed it with
vinegar. Nothing happened. Muratic acid out of the bottle made the veins
bubble up and dissolve. I can drill it with out too much trouble. I guess
that means its not Vermonte Verde for sure. Nov
29, Reply |
| Q
5905: I have just purchased/installed Marble countertops in two of my new
bathrooms (Botticino in one and occianata? in the other). I was told by
an "expert" in the field to clean them with rubbing alcohol. He
raved aboutusing alcohol and said that they wouldn't even need to be sealed
again if rubbing alcohol was used frequently. How good is this advice and
what are some cons of using rubbing alcohol? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Flippini, Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Filippini: (It's "Breccia Oniciata". Terrific stone!) Do
you own a gun, or a baseball bat, or somethin'? Use it the next time you
see that genius! Nobody is going to press charges against you!! :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
Q
5904: 1)How would granite with "movement" (such as "Colombo")
look in a small (60+/- feet of counter space) U-shaped kitchen counter?
2)Any advice on accentuating cabinet colors versus contrasting them, with
granite counter tops, for the same small kicthen (10'x10')?I'd appreciate
your advice.Jerry. Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: I'm sorry, but I make a lousy interior decorator. I am a plain
blue-collar stone mechanic who's even 25% colorblind! :-) Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5901: I
have seen honed slate tile kitchen countertops that looked pretty but a
friend of mine is discouraging me from using them. She says they stain and
do not hold up very well. What is the skinny? Pros and Cons.Kitchen for
a family of five 2 adults - 3 kids - and lots of little friends coming over
to eat. Smith, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Smith: You have a REAL friend and you don't even realize it! Listen to him
(or her)! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5900: I
have a question regarding a so called marble wall slab. I have a contractor
telling me that the wall in a bath being remodeled is 1/4 inch marble slabs..
I did not believe they made 1/4 inch marble slabs due to the veins in marble?
do they? thanks, Scott,
Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Scott: They recently introduced that (5 or 6 years ago). Its kind of veneer
marble - real marble, mind you - backed with some sort of epoxy resin. Very
tough stuff! So … it could be! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5899: I
have placed five 3'X6' "Granite" monuments within our cemetery.
When they arrived they were beautiful. Since then (three years) the sprinklers
have left heavy water deposits on the monuments. What can we do to remove
the spots and get the monuments back to a respectable appearance? We have
used grill bricks, but no positive results, Garett,Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Garret: I'm afraid that it could be more than mineral deposits. Certain
"granites" are sensible to outdoors elements. Get hold of a bona
fide stone restoration contractor and ask them to assess the situation.
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
5898: I
have this Maryland Rubble stone fireplace. During our remodel a bottle of
detergent was placed on the harth. Now there is a white spot on this stone.
I have tried water, minerial spirits, murick acid to remove this spot and
nothing has seemed to remove this spot. Is there any product out there to
remove this spot? Jackie,Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jackie: Your stone has been etched, not stained. Stains are always
darker that the original finish of the stone. It's like fabric: stains make
it darker or of a different color (still darker), while bleach make them
lighter. A bleach stain is not a stain! Considering the rough surface of
your stone it is technically impossible to repair the etch mark. But …
does it "disappear" when you wet it with water? If that's the
case, the application of a good-quality stone color enhancer (like my MB-6),
will take care of that permanently. My consumer products are available through
the link "Maurizio's products" . All my products come with a 100%
money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Maurizio, Expert panelist
|
| Q
5897: We
recently had polished marble flooring installed in various areas of our
home (baths and entryway/hallway). Unfortunately, the installer did not
properly clean the grout in the master bath and left a haze. On top of that,
he scratched several tiles in the entryway. While attempting to repolish
the scratched tiles, he nicked the adjacent tiles and ultimately dulled
the finish to several tiles. A stone restorer has subsequently resurfaced
all floors via the crystallation method (per the restorer) to remove the
grout haze, remove the scratches, and even out the appearance. The floors
now no longer have the highly polished appearance. It has a rather honed
finish. The restorer indicates that it would be impossible to restore the
look of the floor to its original lustre. In observing his work, he used
a huge steel pad under the polisher with a spray bottle. Thereafter, he
sealed the floors and rebuffed. Still dull. He told me to keep the floors
dry for 48 hours and then follow up with a mopping using hot water mixed
with Murphy's Oil Soap diluted 20:1. Should he have used a diamond pad with
polishing paste/powders? Also, is it true that the stone can only be brought
to approximately 90% of its original lustre? From a scale of 1-10, I would
say the entryway/hallway floors are a 7, with the master bath a 3. The restorer
will be returning in about 10 days to rebuff (repolish?) the master bath
to bring up the shine. Whatever guidance you can provide would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you. Mia. Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mia: You really dialed my number with this one! It looks to me like you've
got "Michelangelo" first, and then his brother!! :-) Crystallization
is the most disgraceful thing that could happen to marble. Unfortunately,
since the stone industry is totally unregulated on this subject, nobody
has the gumption to ban such make-believe "polishing" method once
and for all. The guy is obviously a total fraud using a non-professional
fraudulent (yet legally accepted, alas) method of stone "restoration",
which does NOT restore the stone by a long shot, and can actually damage
the stone itself. The fact that he could not bring your marble back to a
high gloss, and that the guy gave you that lame statement about the "impossibility"
to reproduce a factory finish polish, further proves that he should be polishing
(oops, sorry: "crystallizing" - whatever the heck that means!)
marble floors in jail! Yes, the way to go should have been diamond honing
and powder- polishing. Can it be done now? Yes, but it's gonna be very difficult
and very expensive, because of the crysta-crap sitting on your floor. The
only way to rectify the whole thing is to grind (and I do mean: GRIND) the
whole floor, followed by honing and polishing. If you add to that all the
edging work all along the walls, you're in for a big ticket item! (Figure
anywhere between $8 and $10 per square foot!) And all this just for having
crysta-crapped your floor once! If I were you, I would demand that "Michelangelo"
to totally remove the crystal-crap he put on your floor, on the grounds
that you just don't want it. It's a powerful argument, because you wanted
the stone restored to its original factory finish, not coated with some
sort of transparent hard crust. And if he can't polish marble he should
have told you so, and stated that he can only do that s-t instead. The fact
is, however, that you will only tell that to him, because you don't really
want him to do something as demanding from a professional point of view
as grinding your floor!! He did enough damage already, thank you very much!
This will only deliver the message that you will be calling a real pro to
do the job right and that hew will have to pay for the grinding part of
the job, or else you will drag his butt in court. Trust me, even if it's
legally accepted, you can build a strong winning case against crystallization.
I did that already a few years back assisting a customer in court. And it
was a hands-down victory, too, because no crysta-crapper in the world can
bring any real stone expert in court to endorse the method!. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
5894: My
family owns and operates a monument sales and installation business, a few
years ago Chinese granite became available to us but upon advice given to
us by a local granite trade association we have thus far declined to use
any Chinese granite. The association says that within a few years of being
in the weather the stone will start bleeding rust from the higher iron content
it has, they also claim a magnet will stick to the stone due to the iron
content. They say this only about Chinese granite, no other granite from
any other part of the world is mentioned. I can understand the associations
concern wanting to protect it's members and customers from an inferior product
or mabye another motive would be that the Chinese granite can be purchased
at a far less price than a comparable granite from say Africa and this process
is hurting the local market. In all my searching I have found nothing to
say the associations claims to be correct. Thanks for any information anyone
can give. J.C. Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear J.C.: You're absolutely right. Consider one thing: the Man upstairs
did not invent geography! The reputation of a country about quality products
can be only related to technical know-how and workmanship, never to products
of nature! Are they trying to tell you that a pure rough diamond from Paraguay
is not as good as a pure rough diamond from South Africa just because it
was mined in Paraguay? :-) Whether the particular stone you're making reference
to is rich in iron mineral, it could be (several commercial granites, from
all over the world are), but that has nothing to do with the fact that it's
coming from China. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
Q
5893: My name is Dan Williams and I am an owner/ builder. I am in the early
construction stages of a new home (we are pouring the foundation next week).
The house is in the Santa Fe style and we like browns, taupes, golds and
reds. The home is 3100 sq. ft. (interior) and has two exterior porches with
a connecting walkway. I am considering installing slate throughout the house
except for the bedrooms (carpeting instead). I would also like to install
a complementary (colorwise) granite as a countertop in the kitchen and bathrooms
(X3). So far, several granite candidates that we are considering are Dakota
Mahogany and Baltic Brown. I would also like to use the slate as a baseboard
in the rooms that is installed in and on the shower walls. I need help in:
- Identifying a slate that meets our color criteria and is a good maintenance
choice in a house with two small children and an active kitchen.
- When estimating the amount to order, how much over should one order. (I
am an owner/builder but I have hired a custom builder as a supervisor)
- Granite (or other countertop) recommendations (I have read many of your
responses on the website, including the lemon juice test) My main concerns
here are complementing the slate floor colors and maintenance. Dan, Nov
29, Reply |
R1:
Dear Dan:Lots of questions! May I ask you what's in it for me if I answer
them, since you obviously don't trust the people you will eventually be
giving your money to (and I don't blame you for
that!), but also carefully avoided to pay my tiny consultation fee? Let
me tell you something real quick:
You may like slate, but you do NOT want it! If you want to know more, as
shocking as it may come to you, I want to get paid for my consultation!
About granite countertop, I would encourage you to purchase my article on
how to shop for a granite countertop (available through the link: Maurizio's
Dos and Don'ts in the side bar menu of the Expert Advice page), which will
give you all the intelligence you need to pick the <rigth granite>
and the <right> fabricator. If you can't afford that, then take your
chances!It talks about prices, too. Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| I
am curious because I have received a number of emails stating slate is an
excellent choice. I have read your granite articles and they helped me determine
that Dakota Mahogany and Absolute Black were definite possibilities for
my home. In talking to local vendors, however, they reminded me that here
in Arizona we have a light-colored sandy soil and customers with black granite
counters find that they have to dust them constantly as the brown dust shows
immediately. We actually ended up liking Tan Brown as a kitchen choice and
when I asked about the need for a lemon juice test, the salesman said that
most granites will etch prior to sealing. I would like to hear your opinion
on Tan Brown, slate floors (or a viable multi color alternative) and some
choices for the bathrooms that include sandy, red, and copper colors. Dan |
R2:
HONED
IT SCRACHES VERY EASY/POLISHED SAME AS HONED/TUMBLE ONLY 4X4 OR 6X6 CLEFT
IS THE BETTER OPTION.CHINESE AND INDIAN SLATE ARE VERY NICE BUT THE CLEFT
IS VERY APARENT THE BRASILIAN SLATE IS MORE EVEN AND DENSE.
CLOSE TO 15 % ON 16X16 ALSO DEPENDS IF YOUR ROOMS ARE IN ANGLE AND FULL
OF CUTS NOT MUCH PACKING IS VERY GOOD AND SELECTION ALSO ON BRASILIAN MATERIAL
THAT WE SELL
GRANITE IS BEST OPTION ,GREEN AND YELLOW GOLDEN SELL WELL BRASILIAN GRANITE
HAS APROX 65 % OF THE US MARKET
SLATE IS VERY CHEAP FROM 1,5 2,25 AND GRANITE COUNTER FROM BASIL 2CM WILL
RUN APROX 15 SQ FOOT
VERY EASY ALSO TRAVERTINES ARE VERY NICE PRICING AT 3,5 5 SQ FOOT,
WE DELIVER
THERE, Mark |
| Q
5892:Dear maurizio, to date 85% of the people i've spoken to in the marble
and granite business, as well as friends and neighbours say i am in for
disappointment and eventual removal of the marble countertops i would like
to intall in our kitchen. i believe that i can maintain the beautiful finish
of statuario or extra white carrera marble, particularly since our island
will be topped with honed absolute nero black granite, where all meal preparations
will be done. am i being too concerned about the 'look' i am after, or are
they right? thanks, amy in ottawa, ontario, canada, Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear In Ottawa: What do you expect me to say? Am I supposed to foresee the
way you will be using your countertop? On paper polished marble is a big
NO-NO in a kitchen, but then again, if you use the countertop only to hold
the telephone that you'll be using to make reservations or order take-outs,
then you should be all right! All in all, it sounds to me that you're looking
for trouble! I mean: honed black granite to handle all the food preparation?
And you think that thing it's gonna be easy to maintain?? Haven't you been
reading anything on the internet about black honed granite? I would urge
you to reconsider the whole thing. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
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