| Q
4453:
A client recently had saturnia installed throughout
the majority their home. Soon after it was completed, some of the filling
began coming out. Part of it appears to be the filling material while some
appears to be the edge of the hole which is breaking off with the pressure
of foot traffic. Is this called Brittling? or is it something different?
What is causing this to happen? I have read the responses to similar problems,
but they all seem to revolve around water damage. Nothing to this date would
indicate these pieces have come in contact with water. Also, what do fabricators
traditionally fill these holes with and can we assume that the fact that
this is happening, that the distributor sold us faulty product? Delmar,
Dec 24, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Delmar: I'm afraid that your last assumption is the right one. Good-grade
"Saturnia" does not do that. And by the way, yes, it is called
"brittling: or "crumbling". Without actually seeing the situation,
however, my assessment is only an (educated) guess. You will need an expert
to come out and look at that stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4452:
Can anyone tell me how to clean Alabaster?
Duffy, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Duffy: I sure can! It much depends, however, from your definition of
"to clean". For some reason there seems to be quite a bit of confusion
about the meaning of a word as simple as that. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
following the procedure you will be told, then we'll take it from there.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4451:
I would like to use a "granite"
from New Hampshire called Kitledge Gray for most of my sinks. Also, from
the same quarry comes a stone called Tapestry it's a tough stone to work
with but the finished piece usually sells itself. The surface of the sinks
is flamed/thermalled then scraped or rubbed with another rock to smooth
it out (hard work, but it leaves a tumbled like texture that is pretty nice).
My questions. Do you have a color enhancer/impregnator that will help me
keep my record intact? (kitchen and bath). Do you have more than one type?
If yes, after the stone has been sealed correctly, I need to educate the
lucky owner on the do's and don'ts of caring for their rock. Is this possible?
Steve, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Steve: Of course it's possible! And I'll be delighted to help you, with
that kind of attitude (not many are concerned like you are about your customers,
I'll tell ya!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4450:
I am in the process of remodeling our home's foyer/entrance. One of the
things I'd like to change is the flooring. Currently, the foyer floor consists
of terrazzo. I am considering installing Roman Travertine on the floor and
also on a portion of the walls from the floor to about 36 inches in height.
I have read the problems some have faced with travertine on the findstone
site. Although I really appreciate the aesthetic beauty of this stone, I'd
like to NOT make costly mistakes. If you could please answer the following
questions, I would very much appreciate your assistance and professional
opinion:
1) Typically, for an entrance which finish is more appropriate, polished
or honed?
2) Will 'crosscut' travertine be as maintenance intensive as normally cut
travertine?
3) What physical differences can I expect to see from the travertine that
is applied to the floor compared to that on the walls over a period of time?
4) Since the entryway is a 'high' foot-traffic area, is travertine a good
choice, or is there a more preferred stone for this application?
I welcome any and all your opinions and suggestions. I hope that my 'adoption'
of stone is wel worth the effort and expense. Thank you for your help! Victor,
Dec 24, Reply |
| R1: Hey!
Victor! My name's Jim. Regarding question #4, .I've worked in the marble/granite
business for way over a decade now and mostly as a polisher. I know travertino
very well. I strongly recommend you NOT TO install travertino on the floor.
It is a very porous limestone which is easily stained by everything.Even
a good quality sealer as a solution would provide only temporary protection,especially
in a high-traffic area.It will soak up dirt and stains almost with pleasure.It
is a material which best suited for things like interior walls. It is a
material that is very pretty to look at, but you don't want to walk on it
very much.I would strongly suggest you to pay a little more and install
something more granite-like.If you would like opinions or suggestions about
this or any related matter, don't hesitate to |
| R2: Dear
Victor:1) The one that you like better! Polished will need a bit more maintenance
(frequency-wise).2) Same difference!3) Since I assume that you guys have
the nasty habit of walking on your floor (J), the floor will eventually
"wear and tear", while your wall will stay brand-new forever (unless,
of course, you damage them with the wrong cleaning concoction).4) Travertine
is indeed a tough cookie! Go ahead, adopt it!!Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4444:
I just found your web site today. My name is Susan and I am building a home
in New York. I too fell in love with a granite called Ubatuba after seeing
it in a store in my area (Home Depot). I have read throughout all the responses
to the questions people have asked you on this site. And I have a question.
I cannot afford to have all my counters done in this Ubatube but I would
love to at least have the 9 foot center island in my kitchen be made with
it. I do not like the tile look so the person told me to think of a slab
of Granite on the island. I know nothing about this stone but the fact I
love it and wish I won the lottery to have all the counter tops done in
it. What should/would the correct thickness of slab granite for this area
of my kitchen be best? What is the Epoxy-ester based sealer (brand name)
you refer to in some post that only needs to be done every 15 to 20 years?
If I am buying this slab I want it sealed in the product you seem to refer
people to I would need to know (info) before purchasing granite? What products
do you sell I live in Rochester NY and if there is something you have that
I can buy to make this decision to buy this granite I will buy it, Susan,
Dec 24, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Susan: The Ester-epoxy sealer I mentioned in a few occasions is my
own product. But you hardly need any sealing with UbaTuba, so save yourself
the money! Get more concerned with the real important issue: daily maintenance!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4443:
Thinking about using Juparana Colombo for
our Kitchen countertop & backsplash. I see on the website that water
absorbtion is rated at 0.15 - 0.30. Is this a bad choice for people with
young children and often messy countertops? Is there another choice within
the same color family that would be a better choice? Horn, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Horn: First off, the absorption rate you're reporting makes reference
to untreated slabs. If the slabs had been processed in Italy and went through
the "resining" process, then the stone may not even need any sealing.
You have to find that all important information out with your fabricator.
Even if not "resined", however, a good fabricator should be able
to seal properly your countertop with a good-quality impregnator/sealer.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4442:
I just put in black slate tiles on my balcony
floors but they have not been sealed as yet.they now have a dull grey appearance.in
addition they have also stained. as a result i assume they are porous but
i do not know the specific type of tile it is.i would like to know what
type of sealer should be used and how can i get rid of the stains. Seelan,
Dec 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Seelan: Thinking within myself, I'm wondering if I ever heard of anybody
being happy with slate! The acidity of the rain etched your slate surface.
Nobody can give you back the factory finish, being the natural cleft finish.
It's terminal. You can try applying a good quality stone color enhancer,
but I doubt that it'll work (black slate is not porous at all and hardly
absorbs anything). Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4441:
I have a problem with a job where the roof
cave in and lots of water came in and flooded the place. 2 days later marks
started appearing everywhere. Is there any way to remove this water mark
stain or lighten it, Satish Dec 24, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Satish: Just out of curiosity, where is it that you want to remove those
water stains from?! … J Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| |
| Q
4439:
I would like to set up small sandstone quarrying
and cutting operation on property that i own and i need advice on how to
get started, Dec 24, Reply
|
| R1:
Sir, you really need to have an experienced quarryman come out and look
at your situation. There are so many variables that affect the cost of opening
a quarry that it is impossible to give advice site unseen. You will probably
need to pay for this consultation and evaluation, but in the long run, it
will be money well spent. Good luck, JVC |
| |
| Q
4437:
Working frequently with natural stone company's in Europe, I am often asked
about a problem with a gabbro, Black (Nero) Zimbabwe, namely dark round
stains that tend to appear when polishing the stone surface, but also slightly
visible in dry,rough and untreated condition. The stains seem to enhance
when the stone is wet or treated with a solvent based impregnator. apparantly,no
cleaning process can undo this 'staining'. can I have your opinion on this,
please ? Thank you Peter, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Peter: "black" Zimbabwe is the type of "black granite"
which is most likely to be "doctored" with the application of
some topical "shoeshine" or somethin', to make it look darker,
therefore more sellable. When you polish a spot of it, you actually remove
the phony makeup and … there you have the real color of the stone!
You have to polish the whole thing thoroughly to have a uniform finish.
It won't be black anymore, but, like they say, "you can't have your
wife drunk and a full bottle of wine at the same time!" (It's a Northern
Italian saying!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4435:
I have completed my floor preparation for the installation of travertine
and have noticed that there is a film on the tile and do not seem to be
able to remove it. I have tried water and marble and stone cleaner. Is this
something I should resolve before I tile the floor and apply the sealer?
Thank you, Michelle, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michelle: Since you'r talking about a "hazy film" on your
travertine tiles surface I must assume that they are polished. Those tiles
are not dirty: they either were polished poorly by the factory, or have
been somehow damaged (etched) during their handling. You'll never be able
to get rid of that "haze", unless you install the tiles, and then
you have a professional stone refinisher to come out and polish them on
the premises. Take those tiles back to your dealer and demand a replacement.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4434:
I have granite in my kitchen, it's a dark
color but I can't remember the name of it. I thought I read somewhere -
maybe on your website - that said Windex or other glass cleaners shouldn't
be used for cleaning because over time it will cause the stone to become
white and cloudy. Is this true? Thanks for your help. Nancy, Dec 24, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Nancy: Yes, it can be true, depending from the mineralogy of the stone and
the formulation of the glass cleaner. Never take chances with regular household
product! Proper maintenance of natural stone is a subject that's all too
often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings,
you're not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer
(when end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap,
or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at
the speed of light!). Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| |
| Q
4432:
I am currently regrouting the shower walls
and having trouble with the clean up. I'm applying the grout w/ a floater
and read that I'm supposed to wait a few minutes and wipe with a damp sponge.
When I do this, some of the grout is pulled out and the joint gets a little
wet. Is it okay for the joint to get a little wet? Also, I'm trying really
hard to get as much haze off as I can while I'm applying, but obviously
I can't get all of it off. My main question is..how do I get this stubborn
haze off of the ceramic tile after it's all done? One more thing, I'm using
pre-mixed grout and it says a sealer is not needed. Would it hurt to apply
sealer anyways? Tong, Dec 24, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Tong: To remove grout haze from ceramic tiles you can use a solution
of water and sulfamic acid (don’t try that on natural stone tiles!!).
Sealing the grout anyway won’t hurt, but it won’t do you any
good either. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q
4431:
We are looking at a granite that is labeled:
Juparana Cassablanca. Is that a real granite? I did not see it listed on
this site and now am very concerned. The fabricator does not believe in
sealing but does believe in impregnating. He says he polishes (diamond grinders/sanders)
more then 10 times to get a real lustre. He directed us to several web sites
for information on "to seal or not". He seems to be straight forward
and has a good reputation with the stone importing company we chose. Just
a little concerned after reading some of the things posted on various sites.
Would like to know about the porosity of the above granite. It has what
appear to be garnet rusty looking 'water spots' along with the typical gray
"wave" pattern of the other Juparanas that we have seen. Thank
you for your advice. Mary, Dec 24,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: So, now we also have the "Juparana
Casablanca"! Never heard of it (at least under that name). Maybe we
should ask Humphrey Bogart's ghost about it! Now I don't know if it's you
who misinterpreted your fabricator, or your fabricator who came up with
something unheard of. In stone language, sealing and impregnating is exactly
the same thing. In fact, all sealers for stone are impregnators, which means
below surface sealers! Typically, all "Juparanas" are quite absorbent
stones, and do need some serious sealing (Oops, pardon me, "impregnating!").
Unless, of course, the slab had been processed in Italy and went through
the "resining" process, in which case it may not even need any
sealing. It's very important that you find that out with your fabricator.Talking
about which, it sounds to me like he knows something that I don't know.
I never heard of this "he polishes (diamond grinders/sanders) more
than 10 times to get a real luster" thing. Never heard of any fabricator
stupid enough to uselessly fool around with the factory finish, which, in
most instances, at best can be reproduced, never improved. Especially in
the case of "Juparanas"! I don't know …Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4429:
What could be the cause of a limestone bathroom
wall tile- 18 x 36 cupping? Could it have been the distance between supports
when it was stored ( deflection)? Thank you. Marjorie Goldberg, AIA, Dec
24, Reply |
R1:
Dear Marjorie: Like if there were the need for any additional confirmation,
here you have my theory to stay away from limestone. Nobody ever knows why
problems like the one you're reporting happen, and the solution is only
one, all the time, with no exceptions: RIP THE DARN THING OUT! If you like
the look of limestone, stick to hone-finished marble, it's much more reliable!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q
4425:
I am a contractor who works primarily in pre
cast and wood and have been offered a project which requires milling and
bushhammering limestone, which is somewhat out of my experience range. I
am doing some research to find out what are some of the best methods to
accomplish these tasks. I have spoken with several local stone workers and
have been told that achieving a bushhammered effect on limestone can be
very difficult. I would appreciate some of your expert advice on these issues,
as follows:
-Sizing and edging limestone from slab stock
-Cutting and applying 1/2 round edging to small circles ie. Torus and
Echinus for columns 1 1/2"thick x 18" diameter
-Bushhammering inset panels into 3/4" slab limestone panels
-Milling machinery(wet) for large scale limestone milling ie. ripping, edging
I would be more than happy to compensate you for any help that you may be
able to give me in answering these questions. Dec
23, Reply |
R1: Well
Mr. Contractor, I can answer some of your questions, and probably have a
couple for you. As a hand carver, I do not have any of the large machinery
you've asked about, but I can tell you that all of these procedures are
relatively simple to do by hand in some limestones, and quite difficult
in others, so my first question to you is what limestone are you planning
on using? As to cutting out the panels from slab stock, a skill saw with
a fiber type masonry blade works just fine, and by clamping on a straight
edge, even a novice should be able to get a nice true cut. The stone we
work with most frequently (Texas Crème) can be cut to the full depth
of the blade in one pass,
while some other stones we work with sometimes require several passes, lowering
the blade on each pass. Bare in mind that we work in cubic stock with 2
inches being about the thinnest material we deal with, but on occasion we
do work with 3/4 inch material. As to cutting the bullnose and other edge
profiles, we do this work with pneumatic carving hammers and chisels or
if there is a lot of the same pieces, I have a stone mill do what machine
work possible with planners or lathes, and we do the hand work that the
machines can't do. I am aware of some new generation cnc machines that can
probably do 95% of the work we do by hand, but to date none of the local
mills have put one on line, and since I do hand carving because that is
what I love to do, I have no interest in machines of this type at all. Bush
hammer finish is a pounding procedure that can be done by hand held bush
hammers, hand struck bush head chisels, or pneumatic bush chisels. Limestone
bushes well, and we use it often for background in relief carving, or on
decorative panels. However, trying to bush a 3/4 inch panel can be a bit
tricky,and you will probably have a few crack and break under the impact.
Also, if the stone varies in density and consistency across the face ( many
limestones do), the person doing the bushing needs to pay a lot of attention
to achieve a good finish without going too deep in the softer material,
or too shallow in the harder stuff. Second question to you. Are there any
limestone mills in your area that you can work with on this project? If
so, I would
recommend that you get in touch with one, as they have on hand the equipment
needed, and you could find yourself making a rather large capital investment
in tools and equipment for one project. Good luck, and if you want to, get
in touch with me directly through this web site, and I'll try to be more
specific. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4424:
I have just found out from the fabricator
that one of the two pieces of my Colombo Gold granite has a three foot fissure
in it. They assure me that it only visible when sunlight hits it and it
feels as wide as a seam. My question is what will it do to the integrity
of the stone when used as a kitchen counter top. Will it deepen or spread?
Should I have them put resin in it to keep liquids from getting in? I did
examine the slabs before I selected them as did the sales rep who helped
me and neither of us saw any defects. The fabricator saw it when he laid
the stone down to be cut. Thanks for your quick response and advise. Donna,
Dec 23, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Donna: Which goes to prove that the "selecting of the slab"
is but a futile exercise just to make people feel good about it! Anyway,
it seems to me that your fabricator has to be given some credit for integrity
to let you know their findings. If the installation is done properly (no
stress points), a fissure will not go anywhere. I did see lots of granite
countertops without any fissure cracking because of a poor installation!
Whether or not epoxy resin should be used to fill the fissure only depends
on the width of the fissure itself. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4423:
I am working on a project in Houston, Texas
where the architect is proposing using a honed finish Leuders Texas limestone
veneer as a vertical face on a reflection pool (un-chlorinated). The stones
are 2 3/4" thick by about 2' tall and 5' wide. They will be attached
to an existing gunite pool edge with stainless steel veneer anchors, with
a 3/4" air gap between the gunite shell and the back face of the limestone.
The limestone will be sealed with a penetrating sealant (Stand Off limestone
and marble protector manufactured by Prosoco), with damp proofing applied
to the back face. With these installation specs, do you foresee any long-term
maintenance issues? Will the sealant help keep a 'scum line' from forming
along the water's edge? Do you foresee any issues with cracking? Are there
examples that you know of where limestone is used in a similar application?
Thank you in advance for your time and any insight you could provide on
this subject. Sincerely, Shauna, Dec 23, Reply
|
| R1: Shauna,
I do not have any experience with this type of application. It does seem
that you have the actual installation figured out, and it is important that
all of the mechanical anchors and screws be stainless as rust will lead
to eventual failure of the stone. What material will fill the joints between
the stone? It is important that there is no water penetration through the
joints also. Lueders is a relatively dense and compacted limestone, but
still has an absorption rating of 5.4%. I am not familiar with the particular
sealer you mentioned. However, my experience is that sealers used in an
underwater situation do not last. They float out of the stone, and leave
the stone open to water penetration. I have had this problem with fountain
bowls, and have yet to come up with a good solution that does not alter
the appearance of the stone and offers long term protection. Good luck with
the project, and let me know how it turns out. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| |
Q
4421:
We had some granite installed as our kitchen
counter tops. It is Caledonia. The installer said they sealed it at the
shop and recommended that we apply a wax about every six months. We leaked
some cooking oil onto it and it left a 2" spot. We've been able to
diminish the spot's intensity, but want to determine what we can seal the
Caledonia with to prevent staining from oil in the future.
We have seen silicone materials and epoxy materials recommended. I've considered
a urethane floor sealer.Can you help, or do you need additional information?
Jerry, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: Urethane floor sealer?! … Are you out of your mind?! J
A sealer for stone is supposed to go IN the stone, not ON it! Obviously
your fabricator didn't seal your countertop properly. Inasmuch as I would
love to sell you my own impregnator/sealer, the best piece of advice I can
give you is to continue using the impregnator/sealer that your fabricator
used the first time until the stone is totally sealed (changing brand is
always a chancy proposition: you could have compatibility problems). About
the "wax every six months" thing, your fabricator must know something
that I don't know. But then again, considering how successful they were
at sealing your countertop … Maurizio |
| Q
4420:
What can you tell me about the properties
of this product? I saw it for the first time today. It was used for kitchen
countertops. I think it is a very nice looking product. Thank you for the
help. Julia, Dec 23, Reply |
R1: Dear
Julia: Inasmuch as it will come as a shock to you, I think that it would
work much better having an idea of what you’re talking about! J Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4419:
The first night we had our new black granite
counter my wife took freshly baked cookies and put them out on paper bags
to cool. Of course, the oil seeped through and resulted in a number of darkened
spots. How stupid would it be to oil the whole counter so that it would
be a similar shade (darker) of black or is there some more practical approach?
Hurley, Dec 23, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Hurley: It would be extremely stupid and unsanitary to boot! J You've got
to remove those oily stains, man! When it comes to stain removal, either
you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true
professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend
less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by
using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q
4418:
One slab that was provided that serves as
our island countertop has what appears to be a flaw of about 3/4" x
1/2" in diameter and 1/16" deep. When this flawwas pointed out
to the company, their answer was to fill it in with an approx. color matched
epoxy. Should it be expected to have a flaw like this, or should I have
this slab replaced? Or were the fabricators just not careful in the slab
selection?
If you recommend sealing Dakota Mahogany, how would one purchase the products
you discuss? John, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear John: I honestly never
heard of a flaw like that on Dakota Mahogany. Anyway, you have it and must
deal with it! The idea to fill the indentation with matching epoxy is a
decent one, but it's not a DIY kind of project, that's for sure! There are
only a few proven pros who could pull a stunt like that off! It implies
filling the hole, and then, after a proper curing time, grinding the epoxy
filler flush with the slab surface, honing (to polish the epoxy and prepare
the area next to it to be re-polished), and re-polish to blend in with the
rest of the slab. Not an easy feat, I promise! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4417:
I am a residential stone fabricator and have
a client that is telling me the Onyx (2cm) that I installed around their
fireplace suddenly developed fractures all over. I explained to them that
the fissuers that they see now were in the stone when they purchesed it,
but they animately denie that. This is a very large new home and the material
was installed with thinset onto a masonary fire box, which to date has never
been used.
Does this sound right to you and can you provide me with a general geological
classification and characteristic of onyx, White Onyx ( with yellow spotting
) in particular. Thank you for your help. Victor, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Victor: I really can't comment on that. Sometimes I dealt with end-users
who were "seeing things" and took natural fissures for cracks,
and other times I dealt with contractors who, to get out of their failures,
were trying to make believe their customers that actual cracks were natural
fissures. Which one is it in this case? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4415:
my freind in the bahamas who i am to be seeing
soon has marbel tile in his house and it is old he ask if we might redo
it some how to bring back the shine i have done some floor work but this
is the first with marbel help please, Dec 23, Reply
|
| R1: You
never did it before and you're not going to do it now, either! You don't
even know what kind of marble your friend has! I do offer training sessions
on stone refinishing, and I will soon begin organized classes on the subject.
Such an exclusive trade represents by far the very pinnacle of all stone
related activities from a professional point of view. I can tell you that,
on average, only 2 out of ten students have what it takes to learn how to
restore stone floors! Furthermore, even without considering the necessary
high skills, the equipment you'd be needing (not available for rent, not
even in the US) and the materials involved would probably cost more than
the value of the whole floor! Ciao, good luck, and just enjoy the Bahamas!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4414:
I hired a company in Florida "Gasper
Superior Flooring" to install Polished Marble 12x12 tiles on the floors
and 8x8 tiles on the walls to make along story short, the installer used
only mastic about 1/4 inch on the floor and the walls. The now installed
tiles on the floor and walls area all uneven, so much that Gasper Superior
Flooring tried to sand them down (imagine the mess and the dust) and even
removed 6 of tiles from the floor, replacing them with new ones that after
installed with 1/4 inch of mastic! are also uneven and have now cracked.The
floors are so uneven with the wrongly installed tiles that the toilets had
to be secured 3 tiles, due to the wobble effect from the uneven floored
tiles!
Could you be so kind as to inform me of the proper way to install marble
tiles? In the past I had Saturnia Floors installed and the installer used
a thick layer of mortar and the tiles stayed in place.
The worse part is that this company did 2 bathrooms in my home and both
of them look horrible, most tiles stick out and not one stayed in place,
all of the tiles seemed to have slid, shift or stick out considerably. I
would really appreciate your help. Margely, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Margerly: And what kind of help would you expect me to give to you?
The way you describe it, yours is a classical case of: "… and
'Michelangelo' strikes again!!" J The only one who can help you is
your lawyer; but act fast, before our "hero" goes out of business!
(By the way, you didn't pick the lowest bidder, did you?) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4413:
I had a travertine floor, with a honed finish,
installed in my home - the installer sealed the floor and used a buffer
to remove some mastic tape residue. In direct sunlight you could see swirl
marks everywhere. I hired a professional floor restorer to remove the marks.
I repeatedly told him I wanted to maintain a "matt" finish - left,
and went to work. When I came home the floor was beautifully finished with
a high gloss shine. How do I get back my "honed" finish? Thank
you. Geo, Dec
23, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Geo: So,
basically, first you had "Michelangelo" working on your floor,
and then you had his brother! Get hold of a TRUE stone refinishing professional
and have it hone your floor by using a honing powder (diamond-honing would
imply the grinding of the floor, a major and very expensive project that's
not necessary at this time). Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4411:
I just had approx 2500 sq ft of travertine
installed in my home and one of the installers must of had a pebble or stone
embedded in his knee pads, resulting in fine scratches throughout my home.
What are my options at this point? Thanks so much for any insight on this
matter. Dominic, Dec 23, Reply |
R1:
Dear Dominic: If you can detect those scratches I
must assume that your travertine is polished. You have two options: 1. you
learn how to live with those scratches. 2. You hire a PROVEN stone refinishing
contractor to hone and re-polish your floor (consider between $2 and $3
per square foot). It's going to cost you the same amount of money, say,
five years from now, when you'll really need to have your floor restored.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4410:
what do we need to fill in the joints to make
our granite counter top edges to look seamless, and where do we get the
material. We are using 12 X 12 ubba toobba granite tiles, about 3/8"
thick, and installing a 1 1/2" edge piece, Dennis, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Dennis: Your 12"x 12" tile countertop is never going to look seamless.
Use flat toothpicks as spacers (do NOT "butt-joint" the tiles!)
and fill the gap with color-matching latex-based caulking material making
sure that it goes deep inside the gap. It's your best bet. If the tiles
are set REALLY leveled, you can use a razor blade to shave the excess of
the caulk, to make it as flush as possible with the tiles. Maurizio |
| Q
4409:
We like limestone, all our friends tell us
it will stain. If we decide to install limestone. Do we seal it to protect
it from staining? One individual informed me that it ages evenly and beauitifully.
We also are considering a honed granite, does that stain? Thanks for your
help. David, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear
David: Sorry, but you'll never have me recommending limestone for any project,
unless it's a limestone I'm quite familiar with (and then, I will still
have reservations!). The staining issue is the least of your concern. While
probably the majority of projects involving limestone turn out to be successful,
I've witnessed all too many failures, all of which with a common denominator:
the only solution was to RIP THE DARN THING OUT! Do you want to take your
chances? Get hone-finished marble instead; it looks the same as limestone
and is much more reliable. Maurizio |
| |
| Q
4407:
I sure hope you can help! I am building a
Bar and have an old piece of granite that used to be part of a commercial
Bar. The granite is dark grean with whit streaks in it. It is a beatiful
piece. There are some stainson it that look like petrolium based stains.
That however is not the problem. Part of the stone is nice and shiny, most
of it is dull and worn. How can I get the stone to it's original beauty
without spending a fortune. The piece is 2 feet by 3 feet.Is there a way
I can do this myself ? I'm already overbudget on this progect. thanks for
any help! Curt, Dec 23, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Curt: Not in your life! I do offer training sessions on stone refinishing,
and I will soon begin organized classes on the subject. Such an exclusive
trade represents by far the very pinnacle of all stone related activities
from a professional point of view. I can tell you that on average only 2
out of ten students have what it takes to learn how to polish stone surface!
Furthermore, without considering the necessary high skills, the equipment
you'd be needing (not available for rent) and the materials involved would
be much more than the value of that piece of crappy stone you're describing
to me. Don't even bother looking for a pro that could refinish it for you.
Considering its size, it's more convenient to buy a new piece. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4406:
Thank you for the large amount
of useful info on your website.
We have recently encountered a troubled Impala Black granite floor, with
a jet washed finish. The finish appears to have created a relatively porous
layer at the surface, which is highly absorbent of water and a considerable
dirt trap. Having read your article, TO SEAL OR NOT TO SEAL, it appears
that you would not suggest sealing an Impala Black granite floor with a
more typical honed, or even flamed finish. The sealer product salesmen have,
as you would expect, suggested that they can solve it: One in particular
has recommended an imprenator, followed by a topcoat sealer, to ensure that
the impregnator is not washed out during subsequent cleaning. Some trials
are planned, which will hopefully provide a guide. A handful of products
have also been suggested to clean the floor before application of the sealant,
and to maintain it afterwards. From what you say in your article, and in
the the lemon juice test, it might be that the surface simply will not accept
a sealer.
Are you familiar with this type of finish on a floor at all, and would you
have any suggestions about how it might best be sealed? Many thanks, Chris,
Dec 23, Reply |
R1:
Dear Chris: Are cases like yours that make me wonder if there's any limit
to human stupidity when it comes to "design" a project with stone.
It's the classical example if an idiotic specification, and now they are
all looking for a solution inside a bottle! I don't want to get involved
with this one: you already have enough stone "gurus" "taking
care" of your problem! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4405:
Any good receipes for removing a fresh ring
of cooking grease from my granite counter? Charles, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charles: Of course I have a good recipe to remove your stain!
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that
you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4404:
what is the best thing to use or do to keep
lemon juice from taking the polish off concrete countertops, Brenda, Dec
23, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Brenda: You have three option: 1. You never spill lemon juice or any acidic
liquid on your countertop. 2. You cover it with a sheet of plastic or a
sheet of glass. 3. You get rid of the stupid thing and have installed a
more suitable material (hey, it's only money!), not before having sent a
heartfelt thank-you note to all the professionals involved in that project,
from the specifier to whomever went along to such an idiotic idea. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4402:
How should the shower head and the bathtub
faucets, etc. be mounted to the wall. Do you have a diagram? Becky, Dec
23, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Becky: Well, while some may agree that I know a thing or two about stone,
I never claimed to be know the first thing about plumbing! J I think you
should get hold of a plumber or ask advice at a plumbing supply company.
Maurizio |
| Q
4401:
Please provide prices for your information
regarding maintenance and/or sealing of (matte finished) limestone in a
bathroom. The limestone was already installed when I purchased my home.
Past experience taught me that this was a poor choice made by an ignorant
designer. However, I'm stuck with it for now and need advice on taking care
of it, Ann, Dec 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ann: "A
poor choice made by an ignorant designer" huh … You betcha! You
can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio |
| Q
4400:
Your website is so helpful.
I have a situation myself and hope you could help me. I have some acetone
stains on my gray granite bathroom counters when I was removing my acrylic
nails. How do I remove the spots? Annalyn, Dec
23,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Annalyn: Acetone alone can not stain stone. What
probably happened is that the acetone carried some of the nail polish of
the fake nail into the stone, which, of course, had not properly sealed.
To remove your stain, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that
you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4399:
Any Ideas ,what is the best available sealer
, for a fairly porous Black granite from China , which seems to stain fairly
easily & starts to turn white when afflicted with Lemon juice , cordial
, wine etc, regards, Alan, Dec
23,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alan: I don't think that absorbency rate is your
problem; therefore the solution is not the "bestest sealer". That
particular "black granite" has probably been "doctored"
with the application of some sort of black "shoeshine" to make
it appear darker than what it is, thus making it more "sellable".
What you have are not actual stains: when something acidic hits the surface
of the stone is simply melting away the phony topical finish. I'm sure that
good merchant who sold the stuff to you will be able to solve your problem
(hey, if the sell it, they should know about it, shouldn't they?). If they
won't then I will tell you what to do for a small fee. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4398:
Least fussy for busy kitchen: emerald pearl
from Norway or tropic(al) brown from Saudi Arabia. Should they be sealed
and with what? Thank you very much,
Arefian, Dec 23,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Arefian: They are both pretty good choices, but I seldom comment about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the
next. The slabs may have also been "doctored", or "resined"
by the factory, which would make a big difference!I did write a very interesting
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4397:
I purchased tumbled marble to install in my
front hallway. Regarding the site, I see I have to leave 1/16 inch between
the 12” by 12” tiles, and I need to use ¼” (or
½”?) cement backer board, but I don’t know what else
to do. When the person who sold it to me found out I couldn’t pay
them $600 for the installation, they lost interest in helping me. I guess
I need to know things like how do stick it to the cement backer board, what
grout to use, and how to cut the tumbled marble (I have a table saw and
a circular saw, but not a wet-diamond cut saw). Can you e-mail me instructions?
Thank you. Sue, Dec
18
Reply |
| R1:
If you're really determined, you can do it!! I don't
have a publication on the specific subject, but I could help you out. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4396:
I have done a number of do-it-yourself flooring
projects, namely vinyl and laminate floors. I am a careful worker, get my
facts up front, work methodically, and the finished product looks good and
works well. Recently I purchased tumbled marble tiles for my front hallway.
They look old, have no sheen on them, and have holes in them. I cannot afford
to have the installation done by a professional unless it is truly impossible
for me to do. Do you have detailed instructions you can e-mail me about
how to prepare the surface and install the tiles? If I go slowly and carefully,
do you think I can do this job well, too? Thank you. Sue,
Dec 18,
Reply |
| R1: If
you're really determined, you can do it!! I don't have a publication on
the specific subject, but I could help you out if you gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You will be advised about a little consultation
charge, but you'd be spending money on a book anyway, wouldn't you! What's
more, while nobody would ever refund you the cost of a book, I'll tell you
how you could get all your money back! Can you beat that?! Ciao and Season's
Greetings, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
|
| Q
4394:
I have a marble floor that has been sealed. It is an older floor. Vinegar
has been spilled on it. It is dull in some places. Can I just refinish those
spots with sealer? Rayne, Dec
18
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rayne: The acidity of the vinegar etched
(corroded) the surface of your marble. It's not a stain: you're facing a
little restoration project (marble is polished by abrasion and friction,
like gemstone, not by applying a sealer onto it and then buffing it up!).
I have a solution for you that will cost much less than calling out a professional
stone refinisher, however. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
4391:
We're remodeling our kitchen and I chose a granite 12 x 12 tile for the
countertop. When I ordered I specifically told the clerk that I did NOT
want marble, I had to have granite tiles as they were to be the kitchen
countertop. The tiles arrived this week and I noticed that the NEGRO ROSATA
tile I'd chosen and was told was granite, has a store label with the "type"
indicating it as Marble. When I went back into the store to question this,
the clerk checked and told me that my NEGRO ROSATA tile was classified as
Granite. Now after reading some of the notes on your website and doing a
scratch test...yes it scratched...I have some serious concerns about having
been sold the wrong product. Can you confirm if NEGRO ROSATA is a marble
(has lots of veining) and not a grantite? Please advise. Lois,Dec
18,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lois: Yes, indeed, Negro Rosata is a marble. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4387:
The site is very useful and informative. It
would be great to have to have "lemon juice test" and/or oil test
results for the stones. Pictures are always nice. Dec
17
Reply |
| R1: Yes,
it would, but it's technically impossible. First, many a "granite"
present even if so slight differences in their absorbency rate from one
bundle of slabs to the next. I.e.: most of the time the regular "Blue
Pearl" doesn't not need to be sealed. In a few instances, it does,
even if the application of a low density sealer is requested. Second, the
"resining" process that many a "granite" are put through
is here to stay (and to grow, that's for sure!). Such process reduces the
absorbency rate of any given stone dramatically, to the point that certain
stones that were in my own personal "black list" now pass the
test with flying colors! Sorry, there's no substitute for testing every
single situation. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4386:
We are remodeling our kitchen and will be installing Black Galaxy granite
tiles for the countertops. We ordered our tiles through EXPO after looking
at the samples of this granite in their showroom. These samples showed black
granite tiles and slabs with a lot of large, shiny, metallic-colored crystals
and we loved the sparkle and the appearance of depth (like a galaxy!). When
our tiles arrived, less than 20% of the tiles had the same appearance as
the samples we viewed. The remainder had fewer and smaller crystals and
looked flat next to the “good” tiles. We laid out all the tiles
to see if the overall effect would still look good, but the less attractive
tiles looked like a black walkway winding through the sparkling good tiles.
I read in an article at Findstone (on defects to look for in granite) that
tiles from the same quarry should look the same. Are we looking at a normal
variation found in Black Galaxy from the same quarry or did we receive a
mix? In other words, are we stuck with the crummy tile? The tiles used in
the kitchen display in the EXPO all looked like the tile we wanted and we
feel like we didn’t get what we paid for (which was about $12.50/sq.
ft.). To add insult to injury, we found Black Galaxy tile at about ten other
showrooms for $7.00-$8.50. We don’t mind paying the extra for the
best quality, but we don’t think we got it. Before we go back to EXPO
and ask to have our tiles replaced with tiles that match and are from the
same quarry we’d like to know if this variation is normal or if we
can realistically ask that they all look like the showroom tile. Thank you
advance for your help, Dec
17
Kathleen, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Katheleen: Considering the "super-duper" premium price they
charged you, you should not accept what it clearly seems an inferior quality
black glalaxy. The good news is that the big boxes have a customer assistance
policy that's second to none! You should not have any problem to get your
money back. Ciao and Season's Greetings, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4382:
Sir, I had ordered a circular granite 'bar
table' in Blue Pearl Granite as I was very impressed with the beautiful
shimmering blue 'light' on the shop display model. It took 7 weks to have
made and having just taken delivery of it and set it up , I am dissapointed
with it as it appears more grey than blue with fewer 'blue' highlights .
I have read your advice column on the subject and find it very informative
,but I cannot decide whether I have been given an inferior piece,or accept
that 'no two pieces will be the same'. Dec
11, John, Reply |
| R1:
Dear John: Not necessarily inferior (unless it show too many natural flas
over its surface). Just "different". It happens all the time with
wood, with leather, and with natural stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4381: Love your advice. So I've learned
not all granites are created equal! After weeks of deliberation I have finally
(I think) decided on Labrador Green for my kitchen countertops. I have sloppy
teenagers and am worried about spills not being wiped up. Is this granite
a good choice? Does it need to be sealed? I have seen your responses regarding
Verde Butterfly which you said doesn't need sealing and is great for countertops.
I see also from the granite info table that Labrador Green is in the same
group as the buttefly so I am assuming the same, but want to be sure. Thanks
much,
Sandy, Dec
11, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sandy: You're right on the money! However, since there may be even
if so slightly differences (and I'm not just talking about looks, here)
between one bundle of slabs and the next, it's always wise to run my little
lemon juice test, just in case! Maurizio , Expert Panelist
|
Q
4377: I sincerely wish that I had discovered
your website before I purchased our granite counter. Since purchasing our
counter I have discovered that the advice found at Findstone.com is exceptional.
Had I been aware of Findstone.com before my purchase, I'm certain that I
could have avoided a lot of pain and suffering related to our granite countertops
- Checklist or process to plan, decide, select, find, buy, &/or install
stone
My suggestion to future granite owners would be to interview your potential
fabricators before trying to select the stone. Have the fabricator provide
you with choices so that if there is a problem they will be fully responsible
for fixing it. Make sure that the fabricator will seal and install the stone
for you. Have them give you names of previous customers who would be willing
to talk to you about their experiences with the fabricator.
We made the mistake of selecting the stone ourselves and our fabricator
in San Fernando, CA would not seal the granite for us. Instead they gave
us a kit to seal the stone ourselves. We had no idea which stone would be
more porous and more absorbent. We simply chose the granite which we though
would look the best with our kitchen. Well, it sure looks great, but it
is highly absorbent.
Make sure that you also get the fabricator to warrantee
the workmanship. B chipped a small section of the stone around the cutout
for the sink. They fixed it up by gluing it back on. It actually looks
OK, but I'm worried that the piece may fall out in the future, causing
me more headaches.
- Break-up of costs paid for stone, installation,
sealing &/or repairing
We have approximately 66 square feet of countertops.
The material, fabrication and installation of the stone cost around $4800.
But, I'm still trying to get the stone to seal properly. What's strange
is that
the counter seems to pass the "Lemon Juice Test."
- Your experiences - good / bad - with stone or
suppliers or installers
We were working with Jack's in Santa Barbara
who recommended B Marble. B did a good job of cutting the granite. We
only have one seam in our counter which is L shaped, but pretty long (9
feet and 7 feet). However, they did chip the granite around the sink area.
In addition, when they arrived to install the counter they discovered
that they had forgotten to leave a 1/4" gap around our island. As
a result, they had to trim the inside edges of the slab for the counter.
However, I do believe that the counter looks great, even with the chip.
My only real problem is the fact that B did not seal the countertop. Jacks
is apparently no longer working with B.Thanks!-Kenan, Dec
11, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Sir, I suggest that you should deal with a reputable company who can help
you in the selection of the material.... fabricators are not the people
to go to! You need to go thru a company .select your matreial and then let
them recommend a good installer.... it makes a big difference. You can sleep
peacefully! Thanks and think of us the next time! Best wishes and warm regards,
Ravi |
| R2:
Dear Sir, I really surprised
at such interior service countered during your complex stone's experience.
Well, the stone runner should know better do well job than get a bad reputation.
But, the result had been formed and the most important thing is how to rescue
your granite installed, seal need epoxy glue materials which usually embrace
two parts: Part A , Part B. Before using, take the two parts together initially
and mix them well, after chemical reaction complete( two minutes needed),
get some them aside of granite, something should be attentioned: glue not
need too much, just a line sealer after solidarity. Piness Wang |
| R3:
The only answer is to buy
from a reputable retailer or stone dealer. A reputable retailer will use
a reputable stone fabricator. Whether or not stone needs a sealer should
be determined by the fabricator. A good fabricator will warrnty all work.
A good fabricator will have surface polishing equipment to correct any slab
surface imperfections BEFORE they leave the factory. You get what you pay
for...expertise and service may cost more but be a better value in the long
run, Linda. |
| R4: Wow,
you sound like you really love the granite - but for that sealing - ALL
STONE IS POROUS - you will just have to learn to live with it - if for one
moment you think that by sealing the granite it will prevent all your problems
think again - nothing is really 100% proof - the granite will absorb but
it will dry out fast as well, I hope you may have many happy years with
your benchtop. good luck,
Emina |
| R5:
Look for Miracle 511 impregnator,
or 511 porous plus depending on the stone! You can also get even better
sealers. Let it soak up all it can handle, let dry and a little elbow grease
or buffing should take care of it. Good luck,Dennis |
| Q
4376: Hello!
We just had app. 85 ft2 of "Giallo Veneziano" purchased through
a local store, who in turn used a local granite/marble manufacture for materials/installation.
We had originally chose Corian but then decided we preferred the glossy
finished look/color/pattern of granite (plus the price was better!). As
in most consumer cases we made our decision based on the representative
sample at the store and we advised to make an appointment to actually go
see the slab choices at the shop and choose. The "showroom" at
the shop also had this particular granite on display which reflected the
high gloss/and differentiation of colors which we loved. Our countertops
were installed and the installation is perfect as is the beautiful color
and pattern). The problem is that the countertops are not uniformly glossy
at any viewing angle. Independent of the stone variations it is completely
speckled with dime sized to half dollar sized spots and rough and diveted
in these areas.(that is the overwhelming feature at this point!). It looks
like acid was dropped all over it. I've notified the store we made the purchase
through, and the manufacturer who promptly sent a rep this morning to view
this mess and was told that is the way it should look because "stone
is imperfect". they actually went so far to tell me they don't do any
polishing here that it was done in Italy. (where are my boots). After going
directly and looking at this particular stone choice in gloss finish at
three of this retail chains sister stores, two other indepent marble/granite
stores, and numerous phone calls, I believe we do not have the finish we
purchased. The rep tried to convince me first that we got what we got based
upon this type of stone, regardless of the fact that of the beautiful gloss
on their showroom sample/and the retail stores samples (incidentally, all
three stores received their samples from three different granite places,
hmmm...) We are very frustrated at this point. Can anyone offer further
advice? Sharon, Dec
11, Reply |
| R1: This
type of stone does have this appearance. If you look at from an angle you
can see a difference in the reflection. You can put away your boots because
what you have been told so far is true. Depending on what spot in the quarry
your slabs were quarried and how dark some of the areas in slab are, you
will see different gloss levels. If this doesn't satisfy you, request for
the fabrication facility to polish one of the worst spots, sometimes they
can bring out a better shine when concentrating on one or two areas. Regards,
Steven, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Sharon, I can tell you that the granite you got is most likley second
quality stuff .. it is unfortunate, but due to the nature of the business,
the installers will get the cheapest granite and end up with seconds. The
good news is that your problem is only with finish and this can be solved.
If your fabricator is not doing what he should, maybe you can get another
fabricator to come an drefinish the top. All it wil take is to buff it and
seal it properly. It should look glossy and new! You can also get a Stone
cleaner, which when used regularly will keep the granite looking glossy
and new! Granite is th ebest choice and even if it is second quality, you
did the right thing by chossing granite .... your job is not completed!
Call us if you need help and the next time come to us for all your needs
in stone! Ravi |
|
R3: I
agree with Steven. We are not experts in the field of geology, per se,
but we are granite installers, and this type of stone is not the most
consistent stone out there. You will see variations in shine and you will
see some inconsistencies and "rough spots" that you can feel
with your hands. My recommendation to everyone is that you view YOUR slab,
not a sample, but YOUR slab, the one they will be installing. Giallo Veneziano
looks different from slab to slab. I also find it unusual that your slab
was not sealed at the fabricators. It appears this fabricator is trying
to cut corners by letting the customer do their own sealing???!!!!. I
would seal this stone about 3 times a year because of it's absorbency
and I would wipe up spills immediately, especially oil. In any case, you
have something much more durable and beautiful than that which we do not
name. Sincerely, Sal Bruno
|
| R4:
The only answer is to buy
from a reputable retailer or stone dealer. A reputable retailer will use
a reputable stone fabricator. Whether or not stone needs a sealer should
be determined by the fabricator. A good fabricator will warrnty all work.
A good fabricator will have surface polishing equipment to correct any slab
surface imperfections BEFORE they leave the factory. You get what you pay
for...expertise and service may cost more but be a better value in the long
run, Linda. |
| R5:
No matter what the rep is
telling you, if the sample used as quarry reference was perfect to your
estimate, you should have been advised on the " dark spots ".
If they claim that the materials came from Italy, they should know better
that this kind of meterials would be imported as of Commercial Grade. From
my experience, commercial grade materials do show defects and lesser quality
of processing and there is certainly a market for them. You must understand
that the store you purchased your stone from is responsible and it defames
the manufacturer. I represent Italian Manufacturers and I know that this
particular stone processed in Italy can take a great polish to it. Additionally,
your installer will not be able to repolish the stone and give it an even
look. It is advisable, to inspect the materials prior to installation. In
this case, you must deal with the retailer. Good luck, Evan D |
| Q
4375:
We are planning a kitchen renovation
and are looking into granite as a countertop. I have found a company that
sells and installs granite. If a seam is necessary in the countertop they
use silicone instead of epoxy to butt joint seams together. Is this okay
? Their reason is that silicone allows for expansion and contraction while
epoxy will fade and the seam could break if there is sufficient movement.
They also say that an epoxy seam is not recommended for our climate. I live
in Ottawa, Canada. Undermount sinks are also adhered with silicone. Finally
should there be a plywood backing underneath the counterops ? Kam, Dec
11, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Kam: Some fabricators do like yours when it comes to seams, some others
(the majority, I suppose) use epoxy. The Ottawa climate has nothing to do
with it, because I'm hard pressed considering huge differences in temperature
inside your house. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
|
R2: We work
in a climate were the frost goes deep in the ground and you can see a
70 degree weather change in a day and nights that will sometime reach
45 delow. The houses move I don't care what you do with them. A silicone
joint will at least give your house a chance to move with out wrecking
stone,cab, or both. Mark
|
| R3: We
use epoxy. If it does crack from movement you can always reapply or reseam,
whereas silicon won't last because of the water used to wash the counters,
it wears away. It's not deep enough of an area to get a good bond with silicone.
You should not have that much movement if you installed it correctly. Plywood
backing is for countertops under 3cm in thickness, not sure how they do
it in Canada. I also don't think the climate matters, it's cold and humid
here too and we use epoxy. Sincerely, Sal Bruno |
| Q
4374: I am a structural engineer in Boston,
MA, USA and my firm is currently working on roadway modifications in the
area. In one particular area, we have a reinforced concrete retaining wall
with a 4" thick sawed granite facade. Many of the panels of granite have
cracked and spalled over the past 50 years of service. The anchorage of
the facade is not accessable so replacement may not be possible without
damaging more panels or the concrete retaining wall. I welcome any advice
or products you can recommend to repair the panels. If I can get a paticular
repair procedure approved with the owner, I can specify the product in the
project specifications. Dec
11, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Sir, Without looking at the specific problem it is hard to give advise.
It seems here should be some sort of an anchor system on the existing wall?
In general, even if you could replace some of the pieces, it would be impossible
to get a match with the 50 year old granite ... you best option is to redisign
the wall and use a new stone ... you may want to look at other stone options....
depends on what color and look you want to create? Please feel free to contact
us if you need any assistance, Ravi |
| R2: Dear
Sir, I am former constructional engineer, either. And I am willing to give
you some advice as following: I guess that the materials sticking between
granite and concrete wall is mixture of cement and sand or epoxy glue. If
it is cement, things to be easy, you mentioned 50 years has been past and
the cement's valid strength should reduce for a quite rate, and you need
not so much to get them away, just some hammers and cutters. The glue will
be a little trouble, find some an-ti epoxy glue which has ability to solve
them and influx them into the sticking back. After three-five days, the
stone will dropped by knocking and hitting surface. Piness |
| R3:
You will find that if the install
was done 50 years ago the the install was done with wire ties and morter.
This can be removed by cutting the stone out with a saw. It will take alot
of time. The reinstall can they be done with epoxy. Hope this helps, Mark |
| |
| Q
4372: I
have a new home that has granite counter tops in the kitchen. It's the basic
stone Luna Pearl that was standard with the house. The surface of the countertop
is not "perfectly" smooth. In bright light I can see the tiny
little hatch marks that form from the small gaps between the rock formations
all over. When I run my hands over the countertop I can feel then also.
It's not like feeling a piece of marble. Is this how the countertop should
be? Also, should I be concerned with little chips/knicks in the countertop?
My last question also has to do with the popular "sealer question".
I was told that water can penetrate through the countertops and so it's
not good to leave liquid or cups with ice that would sweat on the counter.
Is this true or is it only true if the counter has not been sealed?? Alesia,
Dec
7, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alesia: Of course it doesn't feel like marble:
it's granite (and a true one at that!), for crying out loud! :-) Don't concern
yourself with those little pits. Yes, Luna Pearl, though not very absorbent,
should be sealed. Finally to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry |
