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| Q 8224: We had Ubatuba kitchen counter tops installed 6 months ago. We sealed it on the advise of the installer; we now know this is incorrect. There are two problems: 1) In several areas the flex in the stone are rough to the touch and appear as chips or dings in the granite. The owner of the company told us that these imperfections are indiginous to the stone. Are they or could this be defective granite? 2) There is a dull rim around the sink area, which the owner of the company has unsuccessfully tried to buff out and at this point cannot correct. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thank you. JoAnn McDermott, Reply |
| R1: Dear JoAnn: 1)Wrong: those imperfections are NOT indigenous to the stone (especially Ubatuba); they’re indigenous to a low-grade slab. 2) Your “Michelangelo” screw up the surface of the stone when finishing the edges of the under mount sink-hole and now he doesn’t know how to re-polish it. Only a proven stone restoration refinisher could accomplish that for you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8223: I have read some of you advice on a posting board that I stumbled onto through "dogpile". I am in the process of installing (having installed) a slate floor! I read some of your comments on this - but too late to change my mind now. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Andy: “I have polished marble countertop in my kitchen… Yes,
I know it’s not the right stone, but is there anything that could be
done to avoid all the mess I have?” I’ve heard that question a
gazillion times by now! Obviously, if there were an answer to that question
polished marble in the kitchen wouldn’t be so bad after all! But the
fact is that polished marble in a kitchen is the wrong stone for the application
and that’s the end of that; no buts, ifs or what-have-you.
Without considering the
fact that by saying slate you’re saying absolutely nothing (there
are over 100 species and very different from one another. Some are good
as roofing material, some of them crumble under you feet, and some other
melt in water!), the truth in the matter is that (the right) slate only
belongs on roofs, chalk-boards, pool tables and walls (for as long as
the walls are NOT inside a shower stall!). End of the list. Beyond that,
no matter which slate it is that you have chosen, it’s going to be
a continuous up-hill battle to maintain it. A battle that, I assure you,
you will always loose in the long run. Yes, there are hard-shell topical
coatings (urethane-type) that you can apply on it; but then you will have
to deal with the maintenance of the coating – which is not an easy
feat. And when stripping time will come around … Oh boy! :-( |
| Q 8222: My husband and I are considering using 12x12 granite tiles for our kitchen counters. Is there a tile store or home improvement store in the Richmond, Virginia area that sells the edge and corner tiles. Also, if we butt the tiles will we have to grout, if so, what is the best type of grout to use? Reply |
| R1: Dear Dorrie: Retail outlets that sell tiles and marble may have edge and corner tiles, but strictly ceramic, not certainly granite. You may find some of those tiles as a good combination with your granite tiles. The other alternative is to have a local fabrication shop to make them for you out of you own granite tiles. As for the grout gap, you do NOT want to “butt-joint”. A 1/16” grout gap is “your man”. Personally I love using good-quality color matching silicon caulk as grouting material. It’s somehow shiny and totally liquid and stain proof. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8221: I have several hairline cracks in my Ubatuba counter top (less than 1 year old). Is there a product I can use as a filler to cover up the cracks? Thanks, HK, Reply |
| R1: Dear HK:Is there a product I can use as a filler to cover up the cracks?” Nope. But you can get the butt of your fabricator back on the job and have them face their problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8220: I RECENTLY HAD A NEW KITCHEN ST. CECEILLA GRANITE COUNTERTOP INSTALLED. I NOTICED LITTLE PIT HOLES IN THE GRANITE AND WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS NORMAL FOR THIS TYPE OF GRANITE. IS THIS CORRECT AND IF NOT, ARE THERE DIFFERENT GRADES OF GRANITE THANKS FOR ANY INFO JOE CARBONI, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joe: Officially no, but yes, there are grades on granite. However, all true geological granites and the vast majority commercial granites do have little pits throughout their texture. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8219: I am currently buying a home and have had glazed ceramic tiles laid on the floor and granite counter tops. I am looking to put a high gloss sealant on both to keep the grout from staining, have a wet look on the floor and to preserve the counter tops from spills, etc. What do you recommend as the best sealant to use that will not yellow or peel after a couple of years? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gerald: You’ve gotta be kidding me!! :-) A high-gloss sealant for your granite countertop?? Why, isn’t it shiny enough??! And what about the ceramic tiles? You want to seal them, too??!! Fortunately, there’s no such an animal like the stuff you’re looking for. All sealers for stone – bar none – are impregnating-sealers, which means that they are below-surface products. Second, not all commercial granites need to be sealed, and if you seal them anyway, you could create problems. As for the sealing of the ceramic tiles, the thought itself is simply ridiculous. There’s nothing more sealed than ceramic! :-) And while you are in the “Helpful Hints” section, do spend some time reading all of the interesting FREE articles you’ll find in there about sealers and stuff! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8218: Hi I would like to know if you think Kashimire gold countertop would would good with white cabients and a beige and white tile and a tumblestone backsplash. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeff: I’m strictly a mechanic; please, leave me out of the decorating
business: I’m even 25% colorblind, for crying out loud! :-) My comment,
however, is that you’re starting with the wrong foot. I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8217:
I would like to use this product in 18"
tiles for a kitchen countertop. I submit this question having read the section
on Travertine where Maurizio has explained, in no uncertain terms, that
this is a bad idea. I bought a piece of the tile I wanted and basically abused it in the kitchen for two months. Yes, it scratched, but I cut directly on it. I do not cut directly on my ugly Formica, nor will I cut directly on the travertine. I set hot pans from the oven and the cook top, no issues. I squished blackberries, spilled coffee, red wine, ketchup, none of it stained (this was an unsealed piece). I dropped a can of tomatoes on it, it did not break (and it wasn't installed mind you). I was happy with the end result from my tests. I am also not neurotic and will not be scouring my kitchen for defects and scratches. That is why I wanted travertine over granite (had granite in my last house). With a timid voice - still a bad idea? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Shelly: “With a timid voice - still a bad idea?” Not anymore
it ain’t! You passed the test and self-qualified yourself for honed
and filled travertine in your kitchen! Read on and you will understand. “It’s a culture issue. All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it! How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought “lived-in” look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8216: We have a fairly new (6 months old) hones abolutele black granite counter top. All the glasses slid off a top shelf and I now have a few small nicks in the countertop. How can that be repaired. Can it be rehoned? Thanks, f. Lynn, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lynn: It will take more than honing: it will take grinding. Something that I would certainly not consider having done on location, for hand-held power-tools will create dips and waves. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8215:
Hi, just came across your site - answers
a lot of questions! I have marble countertops - designed with cut black and white marble pieces which are grouted in black. I know it is soft - but it is beautiful! What can I use to seal this marble countertop? Thanks,Beverly, Reply |
| R1: Dear Beverly: “What can I use to seal this marble countertop?” Absolutely nothing. Marble is not soft: it’s based on calcium carbonate. You probably have no idea what I am talking about, but if you read my old answers you will understand. What’s more, give it a few weeks of use and then you will realize exactly what I meant. I won’t even tell you what to use to “maintain” it, because, once again, there’s nothing – not even my incredibly good specialty sealers and cleaners! Don’t forget your “Kleenex”! But hey, it’s only money! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8214: I have a stain left on my grantite countertop by a cloth that had Winks rust stain remover on it. my countertop is uba tuba and it left a white place what can I do to fix this problem thanks for any info you can give me Joyce Allman, Reply |
| R1: Dear Allman: Rust removers contain Hydrofluoric Acid, which is the only acid that could damage granite and most commercial granites such as your Ubatuba. Needless to say, what you have is not a stain, but rather a mark of corrosion, an etch mark. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your countertop. It’s your only option. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8213: I have just purchased a new apartment in which the floor of the shower is black slate. It is discolored..has a grayish look to it..and I am wondering what I can do to clean it and seal it so that it will not look unsightly. Many thanks, Gina, Reply |
| R1: Dear Gina: Try ripping it out. It usually works just fine! … Actually, come to think of it, it’s the only thing that works! Slate – no matter which one – does not belong in a shower. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8212: I have a new house which has a slate hearth. A white ghost like stain has appeared in the middle. The builder says that this is natural to slate and will not change it. Is it true that slate naturally has ghost stains? Saru, Reply |
| R1: Dear Saru: I’m so sick and tired with problems related to slate (whatever that means) that I usually trash all the queries coming in about it. But this one is a little pearl! First off, which slate do you have? There are a few hundreds different types, and I do mean different! To the point that certain slate are an excellent roofing material and certain other – at the end of the spectrum - will melt in water! Second, this “ghost stain” thing and the answer given to you by your builder (and easy out) are really something that a guy like can use at the end of a long day! Ask the slate people: they know everything about slate and then some! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8211: I have a travertine kitchen floor and have noticed some spots that I cannot get up. I use a cleaner/resealer every week to clean. I believe that these may be grease spills that were not wiped up right away. I need to reseal the floor but need to get these up first. Any suggestions? Thank you. Reply |
| R1: Dear: Travertine does not need to be sealed. It just does not belong in a kitchen, period. You don’t have grease spills or water stains or something. All the “water stains” you have on your stone are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic or other pH active liquids that became in contact with the surface of the stone, i.e.: drinks, salad dressing, lemon juice, tomato sauce, orange juice, and so on through a long list. There’s no product on the marketplace that could prevent such surface-damages from happening. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your floor. You could also take a look at my MB-11 from or website. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8210: Is Verde San Francisco a granite? After reading people inquires and your responses, I am beginning to think that I should have done some homework and researches before venturing into "granite" countertops...I have Verde San Francisco in my kitchen and I found one little hole, and what looks like a rough spot, it may be a dent ot something like that. I cannot remember anything hitting as hard as causing that mark. I just want to know if there is anything I can do to fix it, or seal it...I just want to cry! Thanks for your help and for the great website. Reply |
| R1: Dear Rita: No, Verde San Francisco is not granite by a long shot, but it really doesn’t matter. You could have plenty of natural flaws on true geological granite, too. And that’s exactly what you have: a natural flaw. If what you have is only a little hole and a rough spot, I would say that you should consider yourself fortunate! If you can’t accept any little natural flaw, then natural products like stone are not for you. As for the filling of the hole (nothing can be done about the rough spot), consult with your fabricator; they should be able to do something about it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8209: Are water based sealants better than solvent based products for light tumbled travertine and why is this? Anthony Rushton, Reply |
| R1: Dear Anthony: It all depends on where the stone is installed. Typically (and I emphasize typically) water-carried impregnators are excellent oil-repellents and good water-repellents, while solvent-carried products are excellent water repellent and good oil repellents. Therefore in a kitchen backsplash you would want to consider a water-carried product, while in a shower stall an oil-carried product would be more appropriate. Or … you could use my outlandish MB-4 and you solve both problems at once. In fact, un-typically, MB-4 is the only product of its kind that can claim to be both an excellent water-repellent and an excellent oil-repellent! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8208: Have a beautiful one year old polished and filled travertine tile kitchen countertop that was sealed upon installation and then sealed a second time about 6 to 7 months later. Am also using a 3 in 1 cleaner/polisher/protecter about once per month. Still getting water marks and rings from condensating glasses or spilled water. Not noticable unless you look from the right angle or if the light hits right, but is very noticable under those conditions. How can I keep from getting more of these and how can I get rid of the ones that are already there? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sarah: Contrary to popular and widespread misconception, travertine
is a very dense stone (not porous). When polished, it doesn’t absorb
a darn thing, not even the sealer! Hence, polished travertine needs to be
sealed just as much as you need a hole in your head! Let’s just say that like any other calcite-based stone (marble, onyx, limestone, etc.) polished travertine does not belong in a kitchen. Why? Because it’s sensitive to acids and other pH active liquids, that’s why. All the “water stains” you have on your counter top are not stains at all, and they were certainly not caused by water – no matter what they look like. They are instead marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic substances that became in contact with the surface of the stone, i.e.: drinks, salad dressing, lemon juice, orange juice, tomato sauce, and so on through a long list. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your tabletop. Anything to prevent such damages from happening – you’re asking? That question has been asked a few million times, but no matter how many times it’s asked, the answer is always the same: no, there’s nothing, and there will never be anything, unless you believe in alchemi! That is the very reson why polished marble and travertine don’t belong in a kitchen. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8207: A local fabricator apparently “resin dips” their granite slabs 5 times. This sounds like a good thing, no? Mary, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: If you like the idea of buying plastic instead of stone,
then, yes, it does sound like a good idea! :-) At any rate, your fabricator is laying. First off, a “resining” process that has any chance to be any good is done by the factory, not the fabricator. Second, the slabs are resined not by dipping them, but by pushing resin inside their natural pits and fissures in a vacuum chamber environment. Third, No factory resins a slab more than once. Forth, only certain “granites” get resined, not all of them: considering the huge array of stones traded as granite that are not granite it does make sense. Finally, the resining process – which originally came into motion to eliminate certain natural shortcoming of certain commercial granites – is getting used, more often than not, to “upgrade” low-grade slabs. I really don’t know how good a craftsman your fabricator is, but the delivery of such a lie would be motif enough for me to look for someone else. A good fabricator does not need such cacca-baloney to sell. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8206:
Hi, I would very much appreciate your opinion
on these topics: -granite on the floor of the shower stall and on the floor of the bathroom; isn't it too slippery and therefore dangerous? -our contractor recommends having one slab of granite on the shower stall, instead of tiles. Is that a good ides? Thank you very much for your answer, Suzana, Reply |
| R1: Dear Suzana: All smooth surfaces are slippery when wet. Polished granite and marble are not any more slippery that any other hard smooth material. The slipperiness of granite or marble on the floor of a shower enclosure is solved very effectively by installing small 4” x 4” tiles with a grout gap of 1/8” instead of the standard 1/16”. Therefore the recommendation of your setter to use slabs instead of tiles is a very good one indeed as far as the walls are concerned, not certainly the floor of the stall. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8205:
A local retailer (in NC) was promoting their
granite as better because they do the following. "K2 Sealing System
is a special silicone-based formula and application process designed to
penetrate below the surface of granite...Works by penetrating the pores,
bonding to the stone and preventing staining...doesn't need to be re-applied.
Most stone companies use surface sealers...K2 won't wear off, give an unnatural
appearance, yellow. We're so confident that K2 works we guarantee if for
as long as you own your countertop." Believe it is applied before the polishing process. Any comments on this approach. Thanks Larry, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Larry: Do you believe in miracle?... Neither do I! For starters, there’s no such a thing like a polishing process while fabricating a countertop: the slab is finished (polished) by the factory, not the fabricator. Second, no company ever uses any surface sealer, for the simple reason that all the sealers for stone – bar none – are all below surface, just like this wondrous K2 sealing thingie; in fact they are more properly dubbed: impregnating sealers, or simply impregnators. Third, silicon-based sealers are those that last the least amount of time (they have to be re-applied every couple of years or so), and therefore they are as obsolete as the calendar of 10 years ago. To the best of my knowledge, there are only two companies left that stubbornly stick to silicon-based sealer. That’s probably due to the fact that they can’t formulate a different one. Forth: the most important thing to do before applying an impregnating sealer is to find out if the stone you’ll end up choosing needs to be sealed at all to begin with. In fact, you do NOT want to seal a stone that doesn’t need it! Fifth, a sealer for stone only solves a little problem: staining, and offers no protection whatsoever to the surface of the stone. Very definitely it does not solve the major problems, which are: 1. Selection of a good fabricator (not one that goes on record with claims that belong to some “snake-oil” salesman at a country fair). 2. Selection of a good fabricator. 3. Selection of a good fabricator. 4. Getting to know what to do and what to use on your stone every day – which is far more important that what you do to it once every so many years. 5. Did I say selection of a good fabricator? :-) Bottom line, as shocking as it may sound, no “miracle-in-a-bottle” can be considered as the substitute for knowledge and true professionalism. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8204: We are considering a "Moca Cream" Limestone or 3 different granites : namely "Azul Mahogany", "China Green", or "Autumn Leaf". I am very confused if any of these are good choices for a kitchen counter top ? PLEASE HELP !!!! Reply |
| R1:
Dear: The limestone is out of the question. As for the granite, let me tell
you which one is my very favorite: a good fabricator! I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon! :-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8203: Hi. Your website is very informative, but I still have a question. A couple of years ago we remodeled our kitchen and installed Uba Tuba granite kitchen coutertops. I have been extremely happy with them so far, but recently have noticed some "ring stains" resulting from what I think was a pop can that had a bit of pop on the bottom and then stuck to the countertop. Is there any way to remove these rings. Also, I have never sealed this surface (installer said I did not have to). Do you think I should and if so what product should I use? Thanks. Jane. Reply |
| R1: Dear Jane: You’re installer was right about the sealing issue. Now, about your stain: how does it look like? Is it darker than the rest of the stone, or is it lighter? Let me know and than we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8202:
Hi, I am a new owner of an old house. The
previous owner installed traverttine floors in kitchen, den, bath and master
dressing room. Its been a year now and the floors look to me like they need
TLC. The kitchen/Den is the worst. They are dull and scratchy looking. Do
I polish them somehow? The biggest problem is we have pets and one of them
must have "thrown up" on the tile as there are several areas of
what looks like etched spots from stomach acid. I have tried specialized
cleaners, floors sealers and shine materials nothing works. How do I repair
these? What do I do to care for these
Hi, I am a new owner of an old house. The previous owner installed traverttine floors in kitchen, den, bath and master dressing room. Its been a year now and the floors look to me like they need TLC. The kitchen/Den is the worst. They are dull and scratchy looking. Do I polish them somehow? The biggest problem is we have pets and one of them must have "thrown up" on the tile as there are several areas of what looks like etched spots from stomach acid. I have tried specialized cleaners, floors sealers and shine materials nothing works. How do I repair these? What do I do to care for these floors - I have tried looking through your site but have not found the problem and the free care tips you have suggested to others do not seem to be available any longer. Thanks for any help. Rachael, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rachael: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8201: I had my kitchen floor done in tumbled travertine before any base cabinets were installed. We then put the cabinets on top of the installed travertine tiles. I have been told that because travertine is a "soft stone" that this type of installation will cause problems. Not sure I believe this. Prior to the remodel, the cabinets were installed directly over the plywood sub flooring (the kitchen is on the second floor). I am just taking a guess, but I believe the compressive strength of even a soft stone like travertine has to be much higher than the compressive strength of plywood. Are there other issues here that I am not taking into account? Any thoughts or comments? Thanks, Ron D, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: It may be considered a “soft” stone, but you don’t
want to be hit on your head with one of those tiles! Let’s not forget
that the Ancient Romans used travertine to build the Coliseum and pave some
of their roads! (And they didn’t have rubber tires on their vehicles!) Bottom line, whoever raised the issue about the suitability of travertine in your floor under the cabinet is somebody who doesn’t understand much about stone and the little he understands, he understands it wrong! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8200: Had new kitchen counter tops (Verde Peacock - which, if my Spanish is correct, is the same as peacock green) installed several weeks ago. Look great but we are now seeing faint rings in various places. The contractor applied one coat of sealer. Searched your web site for answers and based on replies to similar questions I think I have figured this out - just want to verify. I'm guessing the problem is with the sealing and not the granite. Did the lemon juice test and I'm not sure the counters need to be sealed at all (based on your responses to a similar questions on peacock green). I think my next step is to do the removal using methylene chloride paint stripper. Make sense? Thanks (and I can't believe how much I've learned from browsing your web site. Phil, Riverside, IL, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Phil: You guessed everything right! Verde Peacock (which is Charnockite,
not granite) should not be sealed. Many times people are baffled by my opposition
to sealing stones that don’t need to be sealed, and are wondering why.
They assume that sealing the anyway wouldn’t hurt. Now you know why
I am opposing the practice via first-hand experience! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8199:
1.. Is Granite better than the man made stones
as in Silestone? 2.. Does Granite need to be sealed, I thought I read no but then thought I saw yes. They said it would come sealed from the factory, is this good and then just don't seal it again? 3.. What type of cleaners do we need for it? 4.. What really stains them? I would appreciate your help in this matter before we make the mistakes a lot of people have already done. Thank you, Kathy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: You're absolutely right, there's a lot of confusion about granite
and "granite". I am sure you will understand that the confusion
is coming from the human factor, not the stone. A good fabricator is key
to the whole "granite adventure" and should have all the answers
to your questions below. I might be wrong, but it appears to me that like
most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color
of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about
if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then
you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8198:
The questions I have pertain to Kashmir white
kitchen countertop and travertine in the bathroom and shower. Am I asking for trouble installing Kashmir white granite in the kitchen? Is there a reason that it is very hard to find? Does the fact of it not being as available as, for example Uba tuba, mean that retailers stay away from it because it is not as strong as a dark granite? What should I watch out for,how do I take care of it as not to get it stained? I have black granite in the foyer,it has turned very dull over the time,I like to avoid a similar "detiriation" in the kitchen.I realize we do not walk on the countertop,but my point is that it will get "use and abuse damage" For the bathroom my husband an I decided on travertine marble.Again, can you give me any suggestions as to how I can take care of it from the start.The fact that it is porous,is it a bad idea to put it into the bathroom and shower? We had dark green marble before and it was no problem.However we have white marble tile on the floor in the basement an it is a big problem.Surface is scratched,it is yellowed and generally not as nice as I hoped it would be in the long run.Any suggestions what I can do about that? Thank you so much for your help. I am looking foreward to hear from you Sincerely Gerhild, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gerhild: Let's start with the White Kasmir. You're asking the wrong
question. The right question should be: "Am I looking for trouble if
I use this kind of 'granite' as the deciding factor and I go to whoever
carries it, even if the guy turns out to be a 'Michelangelo'?" What
I mean by that is that your ONLY decision factor should be the fabricator.
And once you find the right one, you choose your stone among those that
they have vailable. Never the other way around! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8197: My kitchen cabinets are white and I plan to use a green granite countertop- silver sea green or verde lavra. I had planned to purchase a white slide in stove which has a true white flat glass top. Will this look alright with the darker counter top? If not, what would you recommend? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandi: Please, pretty please, let me out of interior decorating! I'm
even 25% colorblind, for crying out loud!!:-) But I will tell you what is my favorite granne granite: A good fabricator!! Let me explain myself a little better, hoping that you wll understand what I mean. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8196:
Dear Sir, We had sealed polished granite
(dark brown / grey) with water based penetrating sealer. As the granite was really porous, it took in 4 coats. It was allowed to cure for 4 days. Thereafter we put ink / oil to test the surface. The same was left on it for 2 days. When we cleaned the the surface with neutral pH cleaner. The ink came off 80% and the oil seemed to have penetrated as the surface looked darkened. The question is: How to dislodge / remove oil from this granite surface? I look forward to your reply. M. Jhaveri, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mehul: No impregnating sealer will ever guarantee 100% sealing performance,
especially on a very porous stone and, especially again, when you leave
staining agents sitting on it for such a long time. Having said that, When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8195: My granite countertop is cracked all the way through from the front of the sink to the edge of the countertop (about an inch and a half to two inches from end of sink to edge). It is a dark color. I cannot afford to replace the granite countertop. What can I do to fill the crack and make it not visible (at least mostly!). Thanks, Lindsay Nelson, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lindsday: You can't do nothing, sorry. But you don't have to replace the countertop: your fabricator has to. They should have rodded that particular spot. If they did, it would have never cracked. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8194: Hello, could you please help me I just got a new granite stone installed in my bathroom only one day ago, I did not realize and put a baby oil bottle on top of the counter and now I have a big stain on top of my counter.............need your help please advice what to do or what product will work thanks. Reply |
| R1:
I've only had my granite worktop fitted for a couple of weeks and now I'm
horrified to find that there are quite a few marks already. I think the
supplier called it Shan Xi Black and said it was imported from China (probably
not the highest quality out there) but looking at your gallery that one
looks completely black. Mine is more of a very dark grey with black speckles.
It was sealed with an impregnator sealant apparently. A few days ago my children were squeezing grapefruits and left a couple on the granite - wherever the granite has come into contact with the grapefruit it has left light marks - one of them a huge ring. The cutter/fitter suggested using black boot polish or black ink - the boot polish may have helped a little but not much - I haven't yet tried the ink but I'm wondering from reading some of your Q/A whether it is the sealant that is at fault - although you only mention absolute black as not needing to be sealed. Also - is the ink idea just plain daft or should I give it a go? I would be very grateful for any advice (especially with any cheap solutions) as 2 weeks does not seem a very long shelflife for a 'granite' worktop! Many thanks, Andrea |
| Q 8193: I have a black honed granite countertop that is blotchy and has darker circles all over it. I haven't gotten anywhere with the installer - he said this is just what the stone looks like. Is this problem something a color enhancer will improve? Is there any way to change the honed finish? Thank you! Reply |
| R1:
Dear Katy: Of course, it is NOT supposed to look like that! There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well . black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the gray! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8192: I am in the process of purchasing granite for my kitchen counter. My first thought was to buy absolute black, because I want an Asian look, and I love the shiny black granite. After I read some of your Q's & A's Absolute Black seems like a poor choice. I thought Emerald Pearl, with it's flexs of metalic would be better. Should I make this compromise. I keep going back and forth with my discision and now I'm down to the last week before my discision is final. Please help me with info on both granites and which would be the right choice for this new kitchen. Thank you. Confused, Linda, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: Let me tell you which is my very favorite granite: a good fabricator! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8191: We are considering using the verde marinache for our kitchen countertops, which is a quite large area. Whats your take on this certain granite? thank you. Reply |
| R1:
Does that thing look like granite to you??? Doesn't it look like a river bed? Well, it may comes as a shock to you, but that's exactly what it was! So much for granite that by its own definition is a plutonic igneus rock!! :-) Having said that, to make that natural conglomerate of different stones look as uniformly finished as possible, the slabs are heavily doctored. If you have a very busy kitchen, you don't want that stuff in it; but if your kitchen is light-duty, then it could be acceptable. Regardless, it looks to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8190: I am located in south Florida and have bought a condominium which needs renovation. I am trying to match some vein cu travertine navona that has been down about 20 years. Can't find vein cut but am able to locate cross cut travertine.Prices range for12"x12" from 6.00/sq ft (an Internet dealer) to 6.45/sq ft (local dealer) to 3.50sq ft(in Miami) The individual selling the 6.00 tile (who has to ship it to me from Georgia) tells me his Italian travertine is superior to anyone else' travertine and that the 3.50 product cannot possibly be the quality of a more expensive product. I/m not sure that i am actually comparing apples to apples. What questions should I be asking?> Does the country source make a difference? Does the percentage of fill matter? Is honed or polished preferable? It will be used in a den and bathroom, Many thanks. JH, Reply |
| R1:
Dear JH: Since the "man upstairs" did not invent georaphy, the
county of origin has nothing to do with the inherent quality of a natural
product. Worksmanship is a different story, but a piece of stone?... The number of the holes does have to do with quality: the higher the number, the lower the grade. As for the honed-finish vs. polished issue, considering where you will be installing your stone, I would go with a honed-finished product. Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8189:
I am about to install travertine floors in
my home, it will be installed in the next few days. I purchased the stone
from a reputable dealer and am having the installation done by a professional
who specializes in travertine.
When the pallets of my stone arrived at the retailer, it appears that the stone had been stored outside through recent rains. Upon viewing the pallet, separate from the sample, it appears that the fill was much darker. The retailer insists that the dark fill will lighten when it dries, and there is no harm to the travertine being subject to rain. I've been drying several tiles myself at home, this does appear to be the case. My questions: is there any harm that could
be caused to the travertine if they were subject to rain prior to installation?
Also, will I be safe installing this tile if the fill isn't completely
dry, as long as I don't seal it right away? The installer indicates that
the fill will continue to dry even after installation, as long as I don't
seal it until they're completely dry. Thanks! |
| R1:
Dear Anthony: If the travertine was exposed continuously to the rain, (like
in outdoor installations) then it would get danaged by it: rain is slightly
acidic. But in your case, I wouldn't worry. If the tiles that you opened
are all right, that's the end of that! As for the sealing issue, travertine
is quite a dense stone, and if it's highly polished the application of a
sealer would be a total waste of time and labor. (Not a single drop of sealer
would ever go in.) Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 8188: Can you give me any advice on the stone called 'violetta' which I am considering for kitchen countertops? I enjoy your 'advice column' very much. Thank you. Carole, Melbourne, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carole: Thanks for your nice words! All things being equqals, if the slab is a good grade, Violetta is a good stone. However ... It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8187: I purchased a home with travertine in all rooms. Several months after I moved in, I noticed that it was developing holes. The holes have since increased to hundreds. I received an estimate for repair and polishing, at which time they told me that it was a normal occurrence and not to worry about the future of the floor. I cannot afford to hire a professional at this time, or any time in the near future. Do you think it is possible for me to fill in the holes without damaging the value of the floor? If so,where can I find detailed instructions? Also, is it true as they told me that it is not a problem to leave the floor with little holes (and some quite large) everywhere? Thanks for your help, Wendy, Reply |
| R1: Dear Wendy: Unfortunately there's not much I can tell you this side of hiring a professional. If they were a few holes, then maybe; but hundreds of them? It is certainly not a DIY project. Should you worry about your open holes? It looks like the ancient Romans didn't when they built the Coliseum! :-)Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8186: Could you please tell me how much of a gap is suppose to go between granite floor tiles? We have heard from 0 - 1/16".... Also what is the best way to lay down the granite (with mortar or something else) We have already put the cement board on the floor. Thank you... Diane, Reply |
| R1: Dear Diane: Just forget about 0 (butt-joint); you’ve gotta have grout in between your tiles. 1/16” with unsanded grout is “your man”! White thin set. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8185: we have a large family home in the Westlake area of Austin with a substantial amount of limestone,window trim,quoins,pool pavers. We have tried every thing known and have not been sucessful,can you help???Many Thanks Bill, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bill: “can you help???” I sure can! I won’t be making
any money by trying to sell you any of my products, but help you I will:
GET RID OF THE STUPID THING, and keep in mind that’s only money! If you can spend some time reading my comments about limestone, you will realize that my above advice is the only option that you have to keep your sanity! Maurizio, Expert Panelist, |
| Q 8184: My husband and I have been looking for new countertops for over 1 year. We have white cabinets and a wood floor. Really like the natural and old world look. Would like a counter that is in the beige, brown, gold family. I have fallen in love with the look of porcelain tile, but I get mixed reviews on the maintenance of the grout. I keep a clean kitchen but have three children. My island is about 9 feet long ( we eat alot of meals there and therefore was thinking of doing granite their. What is your feedback on the porcelain tile with grout? Any granite colors you can recommend? Or other tops you recommend? Thanks Kathy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Epoxy grout, latex modified grout, etc.? No matter what it’s
always going to be a problem to keep it clean. A solid granite slab is always
the best way to go, if the money factor is not a consideration. You’re
asking me about a granite color that I could recommend; the answer is quite
simple: any granite color will be fine in the hands of a good fabricator!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say.
It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that
a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust
me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should
be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8183: We have picked out our Granite Top, its called Giallo Tara from Brazil its light brown and black spots as well. My question is with a good sealer will it be protected from stains and how long does the sealer protect the granite, or do we have to seal it every few months. We almost picked a granite called Uba Tuba which is black but we found out it shows dust and dirt real easy. So we went with the the Brown granite instead. Please let me know anything helpful with our granite. Thanks Rick. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rick: Giallo Tara?? I’ve never heard of that particular stone
– at least not under that name. Regardless, I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8182: Dear Sir/Gentlemen: I wish you will kindly advise me as of which is the best adhesive to use to bond granite tile to a slab of concrete. I am planing to remove the carpet in my living room (first floor) and replace it with granite tile. Thanks, HB Pratt, Reply |
| R1: Dear HB: White thin set. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8181: We have installed a new kitchen that is now 9mths old. We chose a lighter granite (think it may be cashmere gold, but not sure) we discovered the first crack before Christmas, from the corner of the sink to the edge of the bench top just above the dishwasher. A representative from the company came to look at it and told me that the kitchen manufacture should have put a support from cupboard to cupboard above the dishwasher, he also said that the lighter the granite the more chance of it cracking. He filled the crack with a clear glue/sealer. I am very disappointed with this as the crack can be seen, the bench tops cost over $3,000.00AU. This morning we noticed that we have another 2 cracks in the granite, extending from the corners of the cook top to the edge of the bench. Can you give me an opinion as to whether the granite because it is lighter could be prone to cracking? Margaret, Reply |
| R1: Dear Margaret: Unfortunately, the kind of glossary you’re using, i.e.: “should have put a support from cupboard to cupboard above the dishwasher” is something I’m totally unfamiliar with. Probably the way dishwashers are installed in Australia is different from the way they’re installed in the USA … I really don’t know. Bottom line, I can not comment on the first crack that you’re reporting to me. About the other two, however, there’s no doubt in my mind: they’re 100% responsibility of the fabricator. The leveling of the cabinet and the assurance of proper support should be part of the installation job. At least here in the US they are. What’s more important, all the weaker spots should have been properly rodded – which I assume they didn’t do. If they did, very possibly even the crack by the dishwasher would have not occurred. The color of the stone has absolutely nothing to do with its inherent fragility. Your particular stone – which is orthogneiss: a far cry from granite, since it’s not even an igneous rock, but a metamorphed sedimentary stone – is indeed more fragile. All the more reason to make sure that all the weaker spots are properly rodded, if you ask me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8180: Hi! I have saturnia marble throughout my master bathroom. It looks beautiful, except for recently in the shower area. The house is two years old and the build up and lack of luster is setting in. I have been using a marble cleaner from Home Depot. It works great on the floors but not in the shower area. The saturnia had been sealed two years ago. But, as is typical in a shower, the soap and water cause a film and pink buildup is frequently present. I'm afraid to use a harsh cleanser. Can you tell me what would work well for this situation? Thank you!! Amy in South Florida, Reply |
| R1: Dear Amy: Define “marble cleaner” for me! A cleaner – any cleaner – is not formulated to clean a certain type of material. It is rather formulated to remove certain specific types of soil – from whatever surface they’re sitting on. What makes them specialty products is the fact that, while they are doing their job at removing the specific type of soil they’re formulated to remove, they will not chemically interact with the stone by damaging it, like most regular household cleaner would. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8179: hi, I spilled nail polish remover on my granite countertops!!! how do I get it out!!! this is an emergency!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Hannah, Reply |
| R1: Dear Hannah: I’d love to help you out, but I’m a little puzzled here. Nail polish remover is not supposed to affect any stone – let alone granite. In order for me to help you solve the problem I need to know; 1. What kind of “granite’ do you have; 2. What the area where you spilled the nail polish remover looks like; 3. Also – very important – find out with your fabricator if the slab they used had been resined by the factory. Answer those three questions for me and then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8178:
We recently remodeled a small bathroom and
put in a vanity with a "granite" countertop (Verde Peacock). The
vanity was placed in the courner, with wall running against two sides. About
4 months after installation, a crack has appeared. The crack can be felt
on the surface and runs across the corner, making a kind of rounded bottom
to a triangle with the two walls. The installer says that only 4 things
should cause cracks: 1)installation on an uneven surface;2) someone standing
or sitting on the top;3)a shifting of the walls or floor; or 4) a natural
flaww in the stone. He says that the surface is not uneven because they
secured a single piece of plywood to the vanity before mounting the vanity
top. Certainly no one has sat or stood on the top. He also said that he
can't imagine with the age of the house that you would still have wall or
floors shifting. However, in our area (Flagstaff, AZ) shifting of even older
houses is common. My guess is that is what happened. In a proper installation
shouldn't some space have been left to allow for some shifting? I don't want to be unreasonable, but I am upset that my countertop is cracked. What is the reasonable thing to be done to repair a countertop in this situation? Also, is it reasonable for us to expect the installer to "make it right? Or is it just our problem if the crack was caused by our house "settling"? Thanks so much for any advice you can give us. The installer is a nice guy and we want to work things out with him to everyone's satisfaction. Kelly in Arizona, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kelly: The shifting of the house?? I’ve never been in AZ, but to crack granite the settling of the house should feel pretty much as a No. 5 or 6 in the Richter scale! Therefore, since the installation is solid and nobody sat on the top, what’s left is the possible natural flaw in the stone. Hey, the installer said it! Now the question is: what is he gonna do about it? If the stone was flawed, it is certainly not your problem, is it? Thank you in advance, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8177: My father has just had very large area of travertine put into the house which is being built , this will have to have a builders clean up done as soon as the builders leave , can you tell me how we clean and maintain the floor , the house is right on the beach and he is worried about sand scratching the floor , do we use impregnators or sealers , also can travertine be vitrified with wire pads and a nilfisk B5110 , thanks. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Darren: Since you’re talking about the Nilfisk system, I assume
that your fathers’ travertine floors are highly polished. The last
thing that you want to do to a polished travertine or marble floor is the
“vetrification” promoted by Nilfisk. It’s a disgraceful way
to “maintain” highly polished stone floors that has been recently
banned even by the “politically correct” Marble Institute of America
(MIA). The least immediate damage that it will do to travertine is to destroy
most of the filler applied by the factory. More deeper structural damages
will follow after that. There are better and sound ways to maintain highly polished marble floors. First off, that floor should be “detailed” before any routine maintenance procedure is implemented to it. Second, you do NOT want to apply an impregnating sealer to it. Polished travertine is the densest calcite-based stone available and doesn’t absorb a darn thing (including the impregnator!), contrary to the widespread misconception that has is as a very porous stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8176: I am in the process of building a home. We have decided on granite countertops for both the kitchen and master bath. I have chosen Dakota Mahogany for the kitchen and now am reading your input on that stone. The other possiblity we looked at is Autum Wheat. Which one would you suggest? and would you use granite in the master bath? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tami: Sure I would use granite in a bathroom! As for the rest I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8175: We are about to remodel our kitchen and we are trying to choose a black colored granite. We are looking at a Black Angola Labrador from Spain or Cambrian Black. The Black Angola seems to have larger grains and some mica in it. We are leaning towards the Black Angola. Do you have any recommendations? Also, will we need to seal it and what is the best maintenance for the countertop. We appreciate your advice. Jane, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jane: I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its
physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How
about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get
a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than
the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8174: Dear Sir or Madam, We have a grey mottled french granite fireplace in our house in France. The surface has become somewhat discoloured by smoke. Can you kindly tell me what is the best way of cleaning the granite without risk of damaging the surface? Yours truly, Ian Witts, Bussiere-Poitevine, France, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ian: Warm water (3 parts) and household bleach (1 part); Rubber gloves; A laundry brush; Plenty of patience and elbow grease! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8173: Hi, We bought slate from Home Depot - the product is from Emser. I do not know where it is imported from. The slate is installed in our front entry way outside. It has rusted very badly where water hits it. The rust has ran all over the concrete side walk and looks terrible. From what I have read it seems as though it was not sealed properly to prevent this from happening. Home Depot does not know what to do. They came out and used an acid cleaner on one tile. I went to Emser's web site and it said specifcally not to use acid cleaner on slate. Can the rust be cleaned? Can the slate be resealed? Or should I have them rip it up and replace it with something else? Cheryl in Florida, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ceryl: You probably never read my 5,000 or so comments about using slate in installations different than an indoor wall! At any rate, the “new religion”, namely “the sealing cult” would have done only one thing for you: make you feel good at the thought that you helped the manufacturer of the sealer and their distributor to put their kids through college. The news that the people at the HD didn’t know what to do is nothing that’s going to shock me. As for Elmer, they tell you not to use any acid cleaner, but they won’t tell you how to solve your problem. Why? Because there’s no solution, and they know it. They actually knew it even before you bought their beautiful stuff! Hey, it’s only money! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8172:
I am trying to educate myself about granite.
Our Rotary Club wants to put up a large granite welcome sign (two actually)
outside of town. I have designed a structure with a fieldstone base and
limestone edging around the top (of the base) that will support a roughly
4 ft x 8 ft x 8" thick slab of granite (see jpeg attached). Both sides
of the granite will be polished and the edge will be rock pitched. I wanted
a light colored granite to maximize visibility from the highway. We have budgeted $4,000 for each piece of granite which eliminated most types except Elberton gray. This would work, but I was told that it absorbs moisture over time which will result in a water stain. I thought that the polished surfaces might resist moisture. Here in southwest Michigan we do get a lot of snow and small drifts would accumulate from time to time along the base of the granite (on top of the limestone). Also, I was hoping to get a pink or tan colored granite, but they seem to run +$2000 more. Any suggestions or advise about the moisture issue and other inexpensive granite types?. Thanks, Wes, Reply |
| R1: Dear Wes: It’s granite, all right! True geological granite, that is, and a very good quality, too! I wouldn’t worry too much about the absorption of moisture: stone is used to it! :-) The application of an impregnating-sealer to the face of the stone wouldn’t make any sense and wouldn’t be advisable, either. (Shoot! I lost another sale!!) What I would do is brush some good-quality clear epoxy paint on the rough edges of the sign. (I don’t sell that!!) Those are the most porous areas and where most of the rain water and melting will have a chance to go in deep and, from there, migrate to the surface (face) of the stone, possibly (not necessarily) creating problems. Epoxy paint is the most water-proof material that you can think of. You may have to apply it once a year or so, considering the big differences on temperature that you folks experience between summer and winter in Michigan! It’s a good thing it’s Saturday and my marketing guy is not in to read this reply!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8171: Hi, I know that I am very uneducated after reading the many ?s out there. I am looking to install a granite counter top. After reading that many of the granite counter tops are not actually granite I am not sure now how to know if it is a good piece or not. Can you tell me the basics for making a informed choice? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Jennifer Ramirez, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: The formula for a successful selection of a granite kitchen
countertop is quite simple: choose the man, not the stone! I hope you will
understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to
me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that
a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust
me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should
be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8170: We had large 16/16" travertine floor tiles installed in a room in our home 20/24.' The installer then sealed the floor with something that was to deepen and enhance the colors. The floor tile is lovely but the installation was poort. We have 2 problems: 1) The sealer seems to be scratching off with normal wear - you can see it is off in some places and not in others; and 2) more significant is that the tiles were not set properly and there is lipping in many spots in that one tile is slightly higher or lower than its neighbor. The installer has offered to remove the sealant and reseal it to address the first problem (this sounds acceptable to me); he has also offered to use a piece of equipment to essentially smooth the ridges in the floor. It sounds like he is going to use a sort of buffing machine that works with water to do this. He says that this technique is used in commercial applications to get very smooth floors. Have you heard of this technique before? What are your thoughts about it? Julia, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Julia: It looks to me like you’ve got yourself a “Michelangelo”! Going by you report the guy doesn’t have a clue about sealing and, obviously, about grinding stone floors, either! When you apply a stone color enhancer the most important phase of the application is to make sure that none of the residue of the product is left sitting on the surface of the stone. A color enhancer is a penetrating, below-surface sealer, NOT a topical. Now the whole thing must be stripped, which is certainly not an easy feat! You can’t strip it with a wax stripper of sorts. Only a potent (and highly toxic) paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride will do. And you don’t want to be around when they use that stuff!! Grinding a floor is a very common practice, but it takes a man, not a boy! It’s the most demanding activity from a professional point of view among any possible activity you can think of within the stone trade! Not only do you need to have specialized equipment (much heavier than a buffer), but, most importantly, you have to know what you’re doing. I ought to know: I’ve been doing that for over 40 years and I now teach classes internationally about that process. In the case of travertine it will also involve the re-filling of the holes that will inevitably get open during the first two aggressive cuts. Bottom line: get rid of that idiot and get a professional stone restoration contractor instead. It will cost you plenty, but, hey, it’s only money! (Besides, “Michelangelo” should be paying!) Now, you’d better watch out! Like I mentioned before, I consider stone grinding/refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! And you’re already had “Michelangelo” working on your floor. You don’t need his brother now, do you?! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8169: I am doing a complete bathroom remodel and would like to use Ming Green marble on the vanity, backsplash and in the shower. Any recommendations on what finish on the marble will work best on the vanity and in the shower? I'm planning on a basketweave mosaic for the backsplash. For the floor of the shower, I am leaning towards a glazed porcelain tile with marble tile on the walls - should I use tumbled? polished? What do you recommend for a finish on the vanity (a 60" double bowl vanity) Thanks, laura, Reply |
| R1: Dear Laura: As a general recommendation, green marble has to be set on 100% solid setting material (epoxy) to avoid possible warping and efflorescence from using regular grey or white thin set. This general rule holds particularly true with the particular marble you selected. Other than that it will be quite an enjoyable stone is you will take care of it properly. (And not butt-jointing!!) The finish is immaterial. Polished or tumbled is strictly a matter of personal preferences. If you choose tumbled, then you may want to consider applying a good-quality stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6. If you choose polished, a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like my amazing MB-4 applied to the shower walls and to the vanity will do instead. Considering the size of the vanity top, I don’t understand the problem of the choice of the finish. Assuming that you want to have it made out of a slab, it can’t be had tumbled; therefore the issue wouldn’t exist. If you’d go with tiles instead, then, like a said before, it boils down to personal preference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8168:
I bought a new house which was just built.
The floor is limestone , and there are a lot of filler spots with white
grout..It looks great..However a lot of the filler spots are beginning to
crack…..any ideas what can be done… I spoke to builder and he
will refill spots but I don’t want this ongoing and eventually happen
to whole floor Also , what kind of grout would you recommend to fill it..the floor is limestone travestine Appreciate your comments, Reply |
| R1: Dear Michael: Technically, although travertine has the same chemical makeup of limestone, it is not limestone. Having said that, I don’t understand why you have problems with the filler. Travertine is typically filled in the factory, and unless you’ve got a lousy quality factory workmanship tiles, filler should not crack or come off. (All too many times, when you buy stone through a builder you don’t get what you pay for: you rather get what the GC paid for!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8167: I just had granite installed in my kitchen – black absolute…I complained about the grout having a white tinge instead of being black. The original contractor (joke) tried to resolve it by using the black marking pen on the grout lines. My designer then hired someone else who replaced all of the black grout…however they showed me how shiny it was and told me to put coke on it and watch how it didn’t hurt the counter….later I found turtle wax in my garage – it appears that they “waxed” my granite counter?!? I can’t imagine that this is good for it?? Also there is half of a tile which now has a very dull look to it….but only on a portion of the tile? Reply |
| R1: Dear Karen: We don’t want to draw conclusions about the Turtle Wax thing just because you found a can of wax in your garage, do we? Why don’t you ask the contractor who applied the new grout to your countertop? As for the dull half tile, I wouldn’t know what to say without actually seeing it. Try to clean it with a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride; if anything is sitting on it will come off. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8166: I have just had black granite tiles laid in the guest bathroom. The grout has been redone 2xs and not sealed yet as both times it has turned gray. this is unacceptable to me. We live in Northridge, Calif. and am not certain about the hardness of the water or if that even affects the grout. What about using distilled water? Thanks in advance for your help. Take Care, Janice, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Janice: Let’s start by saying a couple of things: There’s no such an animal like totally black grout. Once it cures it turns dark gray. There’s no need to seal grout in a powder room. If the sealer gets to the granite it may create problems with not an easy solution. If you want something real black, then you have to consider grouting your floor with black caulk. It works great, and it is really black! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8165: I recently had crema marvil honed marble installed in my bathroom on the shower walls. When the light hits a certain area it appears as though there are oil spots and they really stand out. When you get close to the tile you can not see it, however, when you stand back and the light reflects on it it is real obvious! The shower has not been used yet but the markings are right in the center of the wall and it is the first thing I see when the lights are on. At first I thought it was grout haze which it is not. The marble has been washed with mild soap (joy) and water nothing else. How do I get rid of the marks or make them less obvious. Would a small amount of shine restorer in that area help? When the stone is wet the spot is not noticeable. Thank you any feedback would be appreciated. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susie: It’s hard to tell indeed, without actually seeing it. My
first guess is that whatever they used to set the tiles with is seeping
through. (The material of choice should have been white thin set.) It could
also be that the setting material is not cured completely; in that case
those dark spot should disappear in a matter of a couple of weeks or so.
Give it time, and if nothing happens, then it looks like the most practical
remedy is to apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your tiles, like
my outlandish MB-6. That would give you in a permanent way the same look
as if the tiles were wet. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8164: We recently moved into a new house in which we had desert wave (also known as vyara) granite installed for kitchen countertops. A couple of weeks ago, we noticed a very large area around the seam turning flouorescent green! We also noticed a couple of spots around our cooktop and a couple of spots in the shape of a bottlecap. We cannot figure out what the heck this is from!! Our installer has never seen anything like this before! Now we are wondering if our granite top was truly sealed and what the heck is causing the green stains! Could it be due to the installation process? How do you recommend removing these? Heidi Tempesta, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Herdi: Without actually seeing your countertop it’s impossible
for me to venture any diagnosis. The first thing that comes to my mind is
the material they used to fill the seam, but I really wouldn’t know. What I do know is that the answer given to you by your fabricator (they have never seen anything like that before) is not good enough. The question is: what are they going to do about it? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8163:
If one were to choose a honed absolute black
granite countertop and had it treated by an expert with a "good quality
color enhancer," can one be happy with the results? I have read many of the Q&As concerning honed black granite but each one left open the question of whether it could work out well if the advice is followed about the color enhancer. I want a black color but I dont want the shiny polish look. Also, are able to recommend anyone on Long Island in New York that you would consider expert or experienced with providing customers with honed black granite and leaving them happy? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: Define happiness for me! :-) There are indeed different opinions
on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus
about the fact that it presents maintenance issues.
The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well … black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any solution? well, yes: you have to give up the gray! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8162:
Hi! We just had a "Pewter Granite"
from EXPO installed in our Master bathroom as a vanity top. After looking over this site, I'm worried that it is the "black granite" you mention as a nightmare to maintain. Is it truly black or is it a dark gray honed "granite" (I also assume it's not real granite since you mention that's fairly common too) - should we go ahead and seal it? We also used a limestone from Tennessee called "Southern Pearl" for the floor and shower in our master bath - was this a mistake? should we seal it? how do we care for both? thank you!! Reply |
| R1: Dear Inquirer: “Pewter Granite”??? It must be a fancy name that the EXPO or their fabricator gave to that stone – whatever that is. “Souther Pearl”??? Ditto. Having no idea what kind of stones you have, I wouldn’t know what to tell you. Sorry. Limestone is usually a very bad choice for a shower enclosure, but there are exceptions. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8161: I have kitchen counters in Juparana Rosso. It is very difficult to find this material. Does it go by alternate names? It has a lot of movement, peach quartz color mixed with charcoal/black swirls and speckles. It has a much higher percentage of red to gray than Juparana Colombo. There is no yellow or brown in it. Thanks. Cindy, USA, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cindy: Quite honestly I never heard of that stone – at least not
under that name. There are probably a few hundreds Juparanas (whatever that
means) out there. I lost the count of them, nor do I care to keep up with
it! :-) As for telling me the color, I’m bad news: I’m 25% colorblind! Regardless, even if I did know that stone I wouldn’t have any idea if there’s availability and where. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8160: We have selected Madera Gold for our kitchen counter tops. Are there any concerns with this selection and will it hold up well in the kitchen. How often should it be sealed and with what. Also we were thinking of doing the preparation of the counter tops ourselves. We are going to use a porcelain under mount sink and support the two counter tops that are 16 inches deep with L shaped metal brackets that are 12 inches long leaving 6 inches of counter top with no support. If needed we can reduce the depth of the counter tops to 14 inches. Are there any suggestions that you can give us to avoid the most common pitfalls? We also have polished Travertine in the entry way and porcelain tiles in the kitchen, the Travertine and all grout has been sealed. What is the best method of cleaning these surfaces to keep both the tile and grout looking its best for years to come? Thanks, Mike, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mike: Madera Gold is an absorbent stone and does require to be sealed.
How often? It all depends on the make of the sealer. Some will need to be
applied once a year or so, and some other will be good for much longer.
For instance, my outlandish MB-4 can easily go 10 years before it needs
to be applied again! (It comes with a 10-year warranty.)
The major problem with your stone is that’s very difficult finding good-grade slabs. So, I hope that you will be dealing with a reputable fabricator that’s much more important than the stone itself. As for your travertine floor it needed to be sealed like you need a hole in your head! I sincerely hope that you removed every residue of the stuff you applied from the stone surface (which is just about the whole stupid thing!!) :-) All in all, you have to understand that what you’ll be doing every day to your stone is way more important than the sealing issue. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8159: Hello: we just had a granite Emerald Pearl kitchen counter top installed, we noticed that the counter top is not level and that one side of the counter is not supported (a 1/4 inch gap exists between the bottom of the counter to and the supporting plywood). Our concern is that this is going to crack eventually. What are the risks of this and now that the granite is already in place, what can we do about it. Reply |
| R1: Dear Bruce: What you’re reporting to me should concern you very much. You’re asking me what you can do about it. It’s quite simple: call your installer back and have then finish the job they’ve been paid for. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8158: we installed marble in our bathroom. We have a floor that is such a mess with water drop stains, even foot prints, that seem to be permanetly in the stone. I am upset and feel the contractor needed to tell us about sealing the stone. Is there any way we can repair this floor. Now I keep rugs down as it looks as if I don't clean the floor. I have only wiped it with a damp cloth. thanks, Dolores, Reply |
| R1: Dear Dolores: The “water stains” you have are not stains at all and they were certainly not generated by water. What’s more, even if you had sealed your marble, you would have just as many “stains” as you have now. Those are all etch-marks created by pH active liquids that became in contact with your marble. You’re only option is to hire a professional stone refinisher that will have to slightly re-ground (hone) and re-polish your marble floor. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8157: I am at my wits end! I just had new porcelain tile laid over an old terrazzo floor. The installer used a 'bonding' agent, but did not clean or strip the terrazzo first. I have dark oily stains showing in my grout lines in various places throughout my entire 1800 sq ft new floor! He used Jamo antique white grout. I waited 2-3 days to seal the floors and did so with Tile lab penetrating sealer and a foam brush. The installer and the tile supplier said they have no idea what is going on. I removed the grout from the dark areas and the installer put fresh grout in the areas. Yep. You guessed it. The stains are back. Any clue what is going on and how to remedy this mess? Thank you, Lori, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lori: The installaer and the tile supplier (who made money out of you) have no idea what is going on. The manufacturer (which is a competitor of mine) and the distributor of the sealer you bought don’t have a clue, either. (Did you actually apply an impregnating sealer to a porcelain floor???? Boy, the “sealing cult” is really getting’ deeper and deeper!!!:-).) And now you come to me – who made not a single cent out of you – for free advice. Mmm … I think I’ll pass, thank you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |