| Q 4960: I just had
my cream colour granite flooring done a few month ago. I was shocked
to see many dark stain , round patches on some 25 pieces of granites.
I wanted them to remove it as its very unsightly. My contractor
tried to used chemical that is meant for removing water retention
, as wanting to prove to me that it is only water retention. Guess
what, on the next day, the dark stain did spread out to the outer
but was back to its original dark stain after a few hours. Just
wonder what is the problem and is there any remedy to it. Hope to
get your advice real soon. Jacq,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Well, what can I tell you: if it was not “Michelangelo”
himself, it sure was his brother! I can’t intelligently venture
a diagnosis of your problem without actually seeing the situation,
but my gut tells me that’s hopeless. I sure hope I am wrong!
Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 4959: I
just got a light colored granite kitchen countertop, fried fish
the first day with it, left oily towell paper overnight on the countertop,
and have a huge grease stain that won't come out. Any moisture discolors
the top within a minute or so but water evaporates without residue.
Did I make a mistake getting granite? Do you have to wipe up anything
that gets on it immediately? Could the supplier not have sealed
it like they should have? Is there a way to get the big grease stain
out? For the latter, the supplier is having me apply 409 cleaner
to it every day saying it'll eventually go away with this treatment
in 2 -3 weeks. It's not doing much yet after almost 2 weeks, Dan,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Now, they sold you the wrong “granite”,
they did not seal it as they should have, and you’re still
listening to their recommendations?! NO you did not make a mistake
getting granite, you made a mistake getting a “Michelangelo”
instead of a good contractor! I do believe I have the solution to
your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio |
| Q 4958: About 1.5
years ago, we remodeled a bathroom with filled and honed travertine.
It was sealed at the time of installation. Recently I noticed a
few rings and uneven markings on the counter tops (looks like water
stains). I cleaned the travertine with stone cleaner, but cannot
get the stains out. Can you please tell me how to remove the stains
and what to do to care for the travertine better in the future.
Robyn, March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
Most of the time, a hone-finished stone is a medium hone (satin
finish), which means that’s a finish in between a totally
flat finish (low hone) and polished. Travertine does not to be sealed,
because is very dense and does not absorb much. The “water
stains” you have are not stains at all, and have nothing to
do with the absorbency of the stone. They are marks of corrosion
(etches) that something acidic produced by becoming in contact with
the stone’s surface, and no impregnator/sealer on this planet
can do anything to prevent those! You can’t clean them off.
It would be like trying to repair a scratch with a cleaning product!
If I were you, I would go back to the people who made money out
of you for assistance. If for any chance it will turn out that they
don’t know what to do, you can opt to get in touch with me
directly by giving me a holler. Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4956: We
recently installed a light natural-colored granite (called Sunset)
for a countertop in the kitchen. As recommended by the installer,
we sealed the countertop ourselves with a commercially-available
sealant (4 applications), but we now have a stain from strawberry
juice. Lesely, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
: In my humble opinion impregnator/sealers are not consumer products.
What’s more, there’s no such an animal as a sealer for
stone which is good for all stones. It takes a professional to know
which one sealer is right for which particular stone, and to professionally
apply it. What do you want me to tell you now? The only recommendation
I can make is to keep using the same sealer until (hopefully) your
“granite” is sealed properly (wait at least 24 hours
in between applications and make sure to remove any residue of the
product off the stone surface). By the way, let me guess, they also
told you to use dish soap or glass cleaner for routine maintenance,
didn’t they. Maurizio |
| Q 4955: I
have a 40x20 foot wall of (sandstone?!) to clean, de-mineralize
water stains, and (maybe?) seal. Your stone cleaners look promising,
but I'm wondering if it will really work on this friable substrate?
Please let me know. Or, can you recommend something else? I'm not
sure what to tell her regarding removal of the water spots. Any
advise you can give me would be greatly appreciated, Genny, March
26, Reply |
| R1:
Without knowing what kind of stone you’re
dealing with and the true nature of these “water stains”,
there’s no way that I can honestly tell you whether or not
any of my cleaners would work. “Education before any sale”
is our corporate motto. It is not just a good-sounding slogan: we
actually mean it! Give me better intelligence, and I may be able
to help you out. Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4953: I happily
stumbled on to your website recently and just in the nick of time.
My wife and I are quickly reaching the conclusion of our dream house
being built here in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. Part of the selection
process included choosing, amongst other things, countertops for
the kitchen. We oftened admired the granite countertops in friends,
family and show homes. Our builder directed us to his dealer and
after much deliberation in the warehouse behind a very large showroom
we chose a granite named "Emerald Pearl." The countertops
were one of the last items installed by the builder/granite dealer
this past Monday. We had our first chance to see them on Tuesday.
To say we were disappointed is an understatement. The surfaces appear
polished in some areas but matted, dull or even frosted in equally
as many (interspersed with each other might be the best description).
There is also a seam where two pieces of the granite meet whose
finish might best be compare to bathroom grout. Since our closing
is only a matter of days or weeks away we acted quickly. The builder's
site manager, while admitting to not being an expert, said that
the countertops did not appear any different from any other he had
installed in his years with the builder. He did say that the seam
I described still needed to be polished. Now to my questions: While
I understand that this granite may have imperfections, does this
appearance seem reasonable? If not, what treatment(s) to the granite
should I request from the builder/installer? After the seam between
pieces is polished, to what degree should it be obvious to the naked
eye? My wife and I are somewhat surprised since every other step
in the building process went smoothly and our builder has a very
good reputation within the community (we investigated numerous builders'
prior to finalizing our choice). Jim,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Your builders may have a good reputation within
the community, but a very bad reputation in my book, for what you’re
reporting here! It looks like “Michelangelo” struck
again! Nobody can polish a seam. Seaming is one of the areas of
the whole process where you separate the men from the boys. Emerald
Pearl is one of the most consistent “granites” available,
and should not have any of the finish imperfections you’re
describing. What’s more, seams should be almost invisible.
Going by your description, your countertop should be totally rejected
and started over with someone who knows what they are doing. I did
write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! Maurizio |
| Q 4952: Please
advise how to remove pink nail polish on a tumbled marble bathroom
floor, Andrew, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Acetone (available at any hardware store).
No mirela solvent will ever damage marble.Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 4951: In our new
house we have ordered a floor to be finished in white marble, and
agreed to Bianco Carrara ‘C’ flooring. The sample was
white with fine grey veining, but what has arrived is grey with
darker grey veins. We’ve received other professional opinions
that this marble is actually Carrara ‘CD’ and not ‘C’.
The marble vendor insists that this marble is Carrara ‘C’
and explained that it has been freshly cut in Italy and is still
wet from the process, which makes it darker, and that when it fully
dries in about a week, it will lighten. Is this true? Secondly,
we’ve just discovered that the ‘white’ marble
stair coverings will be even darker than the floor and will be smooth
and shiny. Is there a way to change or refinish it to make it non-slippery?
If so, what is the process or product called? Would this also make
the marble lighter? Thanks very much, Judy, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judy: There is very little difference
between class C and CD Carrara marble. Only a seasoned expert can
tell them apart. You just got a darker batch, which has nothing
to do with the grading of the stone. The idea of the drying and
lightening after a week or so is farfetched, to say the least. To
make your steps slip-resistant and lighter at the same time, you
will have to have them professional washed with Phosphoric acid
(Muriatic acid would not make it any lighter). Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio |
| Q 4950:
we are a manufacturer of Terrazzo
Tiles located in Bali. We are trying to find an impregnate system
to offr our tiles for use in the swimming pool, so it must become
waterproof and resistent to the pool chemicals, Can you help us?
Best regards Christian March 26, Reply |
| R1:
I don’t know if I have an impregnator
sealer that will do all what you’re looking for, but if you
want to send me a sample of your tiles I’ll be glad to run
a few free tests for you. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You will be charged a small nominal maintenance fee to get in touch
with me, but I won’t charge you anything. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio |
| Q 4947: We
recently remodeled our kitchen and installed honed granite countertops.
Our fabricator used a sealer on the surface, but within two weeks,
the counters looked horribly mottled. From the start, they stained
quite easily. Our fabricator returned, stripped the counters with
acetone, then applied polish. He said that sealer would no longer
be absorbed by the stone, so that was no longer an option. The counters
are still staining easily, and I'm concerned that this will be a
problem forever. I've read through some of the posts on your site,
and I'm game to try sealing myself, but how do I begin when the
counters have already been sealed AND polished? Arieh March 26,
Reply |
| R1:
WOW!! All the world knows by now that hone-finished
black granite countertop are inherently a maintenance nightmare.
Applying an impregnator sealer was the first BIG mistake. Trying
to remove the impregnator sealer with acetone was the second mistake.
Applying a wax over all that garbage was the third mistake. They
did not make a forth mistake because they did not do anything after
that! All in all, for what you’re reporting, it sounds to
me like you’ve been taken for a ride! I do know exactly what
your situation is and how to rectify it and make your countertop
enjoyable (well … almost!). I think that you should demand
the parties involved in your case (and who made money out of you!)
to solve the problem they created. If not, you can opt to get in
touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4946: Does
anyone have a suggestion on cutting accurate holes 8" to 12"in
granite and 2 or 3 inches deep .Low tech is preferred Robert,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Hello Robert the most efficient method is by
drilling the holes with a diamond bit. If you need to do it yourself
you can rent a coring rig and bit at a rental yard. I suggest you
call in a certified conrete cutter and driller who could probably
help you much quicker and cheaper. |
| R2:
I give you two options: NO WAY and NO HOW!!
Get a pro!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 4945: I
have travertine throughout my bathroom ( walls, shower, counter
tops) what is the best way to clean and maintain the stone? Also
I have polished cobalt blue tile counter tops in my kitchen ( I
know I'm a glutton for punishment ) I have a hard time cleaning
all the cooking greases and oils off the surfaces. I have found
that a glass and mirror cleaner does this best, but I still have
to work on cutting the grease first. Any easier solution to cleaning?
Or should I resign myself to building up my muscles? Thanks -Jamie,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
I am not an Enjo consultant, but swear by their products, I’m
not sure how the travertine in the bathroom would come up, but the
polished tiles in the kitchen will definitely respond to Enjo’s
green kitchen glove, COLD water and a linen tea towel. In this instance
I am speaking from experience after having tried everything caustic
and not to remove sticky grease spots from polished tiles in our
kitchen (they were there when we moved into an established house
4 years old); I figured I had nothing to lose when I borrowed an
Enjo kitchen glove. With less effort and no chemicals than I have
ever tried (quite a bit of water though for wall tiles), the marks
came off and the tiles are kept beautifully shining with a regular
wipe of the wet glove and a dry off with a linen tea towel (this
avoids any residual water marks). For the bathroom, I can only suggest
having an Enjo demonstration in your home to see what effect the
white bathroom/glass glove has on the travertine. I have very finely
textured polished tiles in the bathroom and shower and these always
come up beautifully with the Enjo removing all soap build up and
water/calcium residue simply wiping over and drying off with the
linen tea towel. No elbow grease or muscle building required! Emma
Baumann |
|
| Q 4944: I
live in a home with a marble floor foyer, that was installed by
the previous owner. Although it is very beautiful, I prefer a more
rustic look to the formality of the polished marble tile. I was
wondering if there was a way to distress the flooring and bring
it back to its more natural stone look, without weakening the tiles.
Is there a product (like some sort of acid) that we could apply
or have professional apply? What would be the process? Great website!
Thanks for your help. Patricia- VA, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
I would not recommend acid washing any marble! Contact a reputable
stone company and ask about giving the floor a honed (matt) finish. |
| R2:
You could have it acid
washed (Hydrochloric acid will not alter the current colr of the
stone; Phosphoric acid will make it lighter), or – better
yet (IMO) – you can have it honed with a good-quality honing
powder. Either way, you will need a pro. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4943: I
found this site while searching for "how to clean black granite
countertops". I looked over all the current questions but none
fit my problem although some seemed close. I have new black galaxy
granite countertops and have purchased all the granite cleaning
products found in stores but I am a slave to this countertop. the
slightest water splashed or a cup left on it leaves water spots
and circles. If you just try to wipe and let it dry it smears. Forget
a sponge. I have to use dish soap and a clean dishrag, wash down
whole countertop then dry with another dry, clean rag. Is this typical?
Am I doomed to spend the life of this counter, cleaning it? Barbara,
March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
No, it is not typical at all. I have Black
Galaxy in my own kitchen for almost 7 years and I never had any
problem cleaning it! Maybe it’s the cleaners you’ve
been using (dish soap is not certainly the right one! It will leave
a film), or maybe, the fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer
onto it – which they were not supposed to – and its
presence may create the type of problems you’re experiencing.
Find out about that with your fabricator, and, if they did apply
an impregnator, demand them to remove it, no ifs or buts! If they
give you any problem, you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4942: I ordered
Dakota Mahogany for my kitchen in a condo currently under development.
I was assured that I would have the opportunity to see the slab
prior to fabrication. Yesterday, while visiting the building site
I discovered that the granite had already been installed. I had
no opportunity to view the slab prior to installation, even though
I was assured otherwise when I was deciding on the material for
the countertops. A portion of the granite has a large black beauty
mark which, because of it's size is ugly and distracting from the
beauty of the closely grained pattern of Dakota Mahogany. Had I
seen the slab at the granite yard, I certainly wouldn't have selected
it for my kitchen, or anywhere else in my home. I understand that
beauty marks in granite do occur because granite is natural, not
manufactured and, in many cases enhance the appearance of the slab.
This mark is very unattractive and I would be very unhappy having
this countertop in my home. How difficult is it to replace a granite
countertop after it's been installed? I don't want any discount
on my purchase, I want what I asked for--preapporval of my granite
slab. Thank you in advance for your response. Best Regards, Glenda,
March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
It is not very difficult. And I agree with you: stand your ground!
Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4940: I have enjoyed
Lanhelin in my kitchen for the past 9 years on a daily basis. It
looks as new as the day it was installed. It is so perfect that
people don’t think that it is natural stone. Are you familiar
with Lanhelin and if you are, is there a reason that it was not
on your list? Is it true granite? Rose, March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rose, thanks for your comment and info.
Lanhelin is known "granite" from France, but not enough
known between 150 the world most popular granites. It is granodiorite
from Bretagne Daniel, Expert Panleist |
| Dear
Dr. Daniel, Thank you for your response. You list granodiorite under
the granite group in your report. So are you saying that granodiorite
(or Lanhelin) is a TRUE granite? It is a very small grain. Rose
|
| R2:
Dear Rose, Lanhelin is petrographically granodiorite
according some source that I have. It means not true granite, only
granite group (granitoide). Daniel, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4938: I just found
your web-site and was thrilled to see how you take the time to answer
in detail each consumers questions and concerns. I have a granite
countertop in my kitchen. It was installed about 3 years ago and
I love it! What product would you recommend to retain the luster
and shine of the granite. Can the product that you do recommend
be used on a daily basis or how often should I treat the countertop?
I don't remember the name of the color but it is in the earth tone
family. Thank you for your attention. Sincerely, Bernice, March
26, Reply
|
| R1:
As easy as 1-2-3! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. In there you will
find all the information you’re looking for and then some!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4935: We
have recently installed granite countertops(Giallo Veneziano). It
seems that some brown (rust-like) stains are forming in the stone.
The installer said that its becuase the stone is rich in iron. Can
you make a suggestion, Mo, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
And so what?! Even if it’s rich in iron (which I don’t
know) it is not supposed to oxidize. Where in the countertop are
those rusty stains appearing? Let me know and then we’ll take
it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4934: I
have a granite kitchen counter top (St. Cecelia) that has been installed
for about 5 years. I just noticed that it has started to discolor
in several places taking on a orange tint. What should I do??
Diane, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
It’s impossible to draw any conclusion without actually taking
a look at the stone. What you’re reporting is mighty unusual.
I actually never heard of anything like that. What have you been
using for routine cleaning? Maurizio |
| Q 4933: My granite
countertops were cut too short on one side so now they used a piece
from different rock. It's similar but not exactly, my installer
will give my 10% off, do you think I should get more, Scott, March
26, Reply |
| R1:
What are you, a beggar or something to be content
with a 10% discount?! I think you should get your countertop replaced,
period! Something like that is not acceptable at all. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4931: I already
have a granite vanity top, and I wish to add side splashes. However,
due to some odd size cabinetry, the perfect layout would be if I
mounted the side splashes on the sides butted up next to the vanity
top (instead of the usual mounting on top). Is this a bad idea?
I realize the concern that water might drip down between the side
splash and the vanity top. Any suggestions? Thank You, Rich, March
26, Reply |
| R1:
If you silicon the joint it should work.Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4929: My husband
and I are in a quandary. We both enjoy our travertine but want to
fill it due to the fact that it will go in our bathroom (master
bath). We have heard from many people that we might consider filling
it (as we did the un-honed) with something. As we do enjoy the “rough”
look of the stone, we really would like to keep it that way. We
do not want the “glassy” look of marble or polished/filled…etc.
We want it to still look “rough”, with filled holes
but without using pigmented filler. We have heard and read that
you can fill it with resin but again, the glassy look is something
neither one of us want as a result. Might you be able to suggest
another material as filler? We are totally boggled and our bathroom
is at a standstill. Our travertine will have the 1/16” grout
line and they are 18”x18”. Kerby, March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
Filling the holes of travertine in indoor installation is always
a good ides, and it will not affect the finish that you currently
have. I suggest you to use sandless (wall-type) grout. If you want
the holes filled but still detect little dimples, you will have
to sponge the surface of the stone as soon as the grout is applied.
If you want it to be flush with the stone surface, then you will
have to wait for at least one full day to cure, then you will scraper
the excess off with a professional-grade scraper. No matter, what,
I strongly encourage you to get a pro. Maurizio |
| Q 4928: Your site
is EXCELLENT!, Please advise me on the best method to clean my shower.
My Floors are tumbled marble, my walls are travertine. Although
we squeegee every time we shower we still get orange mildew deposits.
So far only elbow grease gets it out, any additional tips you can
offer? Thanks! De' March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
It is not mildew, it’s something different
that’s a clear indication of a problem that you MUST solve
as soon as possible! I do know exactly what your situation is and
how to rectify it. I think that you should demand the parties involved
in your case (and who made money out of you!) to solve the problem
they created. If not, you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4927: I
have read everything I could on the web page and a few article seem
familiar. I recently had countertops installed. I bought them under
the name of granite and the color is Peacock Green. Is this a stone
one that should be sealed or not? Peacock Green resembles Uba Tuba,
but it is more "chunky". Soda was left on the stone for
about 1 hour and left a haze. I took our original sample, probably
was not sealed, and put soda on it for an hour. There was no staining.
Should I start striping the countertop? March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
Yes, you hit the nail on the head! That stone
does not need to be sealed. The impregnator/sealer that was applied
on it is sensitive to acids, hence the “stain”. Get
rid of the sealer, and concern yourself about the much more important
routine maintenance of your beautiful stone. Maurizio |
| Q 4924:
I have a marble counter top in a bathroom
that has spots on it from a cleaner - I think what happened is the
cleaner sprayed a cleaning product (WAl Mart Brand) on the counter
top and left it to dry. When they returned they tried to wipe it
but now only the spots show. is there a way to remove these spots
and what will the outcome be? Thank you so much.., anne, March 26,
Reply |
| R1:
Yes and no. There are polishing powders for
marble that were formulated to be user-friendly enough to be handled
by the average homeowner, but are designed to do spot restoration.
If your vanity top has been damage all over, you are better off
calling a professional stone refinisher to hone and re-polish your
marble. Maurizio |
| Q 4919: I
am using Saint Cecilia 12X12 tiles on the floor and the walls of
a small bathroom. Tiles have not been sealed or resined, any problems
with water absorption in the bath? Have a new fan that is 110 CFM
to remove shower steam and using tile heat in the floor..Using Golden
Green for the Countertop. Thanks in advance, Dale, March 26, Reply |
R1:
If you by a good granites(first quality)....don´t
worry about the water.
The granite is porous , but if the tiles are first quality...when
they went to polish machine all of these pores are closed,because
when we polish first quality tiles we do in a 19 heads polish machines...so
the tiles pass for all steps to close the pores.But if you by a
poor quality may be you need sealed them,because the commercial
choice pass in 19 heads too , but the poor tiles maybe have some
litlle chew , and you can´t see so the water pass between
the chews. We sell first quality and commercial choice tiles...belive
in company who can show the difference, because the price is cheaper
them first quality but of course the quality is poor Regards Andrei
Souza |
| R2:
Absorption of granite or marble is quite normal
and don't need to worry about too much, if the sticking material
was cement, problem will get worse since it will reflect some white
lye foam on granite surface, that is most concerning. Meanwhile,
keeping good ventilation is also a good choice. Piness |
| R3:
I would seal the floor and the vanity top with a good-quality stone
impregnator/sealer. I wouldn’t bother with the walls (unless
they are inside a shower stall). Maurizio |
| Q 4908: I
had Desert Cream granite purchased from a store, installed three
days ago. We left a bottle of Dishwashing soap on it for a couple
of hours that leaked. It has made a ring stain. I had thought the
the major problems were with oil, but perhaps this dishwasher soap
contain oil in some form. What is the best way to remove the stain.
There is nothing quite like staining a beautiful countertop the
first day you use it. Thanks, Sally, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
I do know exactly what your situation is and
how to rectify it. But what happened to your fabricator / installer?
I think that you should demand the parties involved in your case
(and who made money out of you!) to solve the problem they created
(by selling you such an absorbent “granite” to begin
with, and second by not sealing it properly. If not, you can opt
to get in touch with me, Maurizio |
| Q 4907: I
am considering sending some Palimanan sandstone carvings from Indonesia
to my friend in the UK for her outdoor garden. I am wondering if
the Palimanan sandstone is able to withstand the temperature and
humidity levels in the UK? Please advise. Thanks. Carol, March 26,
Reply |
| R1:
Palimanan Stone is strongh enough to UK wheather.
But for best result, please coat the surface after installing the
stone, esecially for outdoor. Thank you, Kicky |
| R2:
Dear Carol, the the Palimanan sandstone is
not able to withstand the temperature and humidity levels in the
UK even you using water proofing or any sealent, better use it for
indoor ornament Imam |
| R3:
Need to get
the approximate qty and cut size of the palimanan stone that you
were requesting. Javastone |
| R4:
Your concerning
is quite reasonable and I had some experiences that sandstone can't
be used in moist and humid atmosphere which can invade the structure
inside of sandstone. For example, the longevity of sandstone will
decrease dramatically after taking use in such environment,so I
am back you. Piness |
| R5:
I have a factory in
Indonesia and we specialize in palimanan carvings. Palimanan will
absorb water and can crack if it freezes later. You can try to seal
it with a quality stone sealer to prevent the water from penetrating
the stone, and that may work. We have some pieces that are in the
Northeastern U.S. and they have survived a couple of winters now,
but I won't guarantee them. Better if you can talk your friend into
black stone statue, Mike Bell |
| R6:
HAVE SOME IN MY GARDEN
THEY CANNOT STAND THE HARD RAINS, VERY POROUS AND SOFT THAT WHY
THEY CARVE WITH THE MATERIAL ITS EASY THE COLOR OF THIS SAND STONE
IS A YELLOWISH SHADE, REGARDS ROBBIE, March
26, Reply |
| |
Q 4905: We
have been working on the area of producing, installation and covering
the surfaces with Marble, Granite and Travertine. As it is known
all mine and materials are scratched and discoloured when they are
treated and become dull in appearance.
For this reason we are looking for the solutions to strip away years
of wear and tear and look virtually new. We, in Turkey, use a high
motion conventional machine made in Italy to cover the defect on
the surface lining that would seen in time and in some areas where
a dence erosion occurs. We would like to cooperate with your company
about using, marketing your productions. We would be grateful if
you give us detailed information about the policy of your company,
Canberk, March 4, Reply
|
| R1:
Are you talking about my company? If so, contact
me by sending me a e-mail at: info@findstone.com.Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio |
Q 4904:
I'm a remodel contractor in Nth CA. Doing a bathroom with 1.25"
Veniziano Giallo. My sub contractor installed the shower wall slabs
first, propped above the mortar bed with some spacers, then drypacked
the remaining inch high space across the bottom with mortar. Naturally
(or maybe not?), the pan cracked at the wedges...and it leaks...I'm
trying to get him to pull the walls and replace the pan and the
liner but naturally, that's tough going. I've talked to a couple
of other subs who all say the pan granite should be installed first,
then the walls. Makes sense to me 'cos the water will stay above
the pan granite and go down the drain instead of (possibly) going
down the
vertical face and under the shower pan mortar. Would appreciate
any info you can give. March 4, Reply
|
R1:
IMO it doesn't make sense to install the floor
first. The very nature of installing slabs would possibly destroy
the pan. Instead it sounds like the preparation of the substrate
was inadequate. I mean a 1" grout joint at the bottom??
You need to redo the shower again, the slabs should be sized before
installation to accommodate the size of the shower. Grout joints
should be no more than 1/16" and adequate water proofing and
substrate preparation done before anything is installed.
Again, IMO it sounds like there was not enough forethought before
installation which is an expensive shame.
With Giallo Veneziano as the material of choice you need to investigate
impregnating sealers and care instructions as well. Good luck, Steven
|
R2:
Dear Sir, I fully
understand your intention of installation granite for bathroom performance,
but whatever you got information from various sub-contractors, one
crucial thing has been ignored: there should be one water-proof
layer under mortar in bathroom during the performance of the building,
I am not so sure that there is water proof which made of aldehyde
resin or something else in your bathroom, but I insist that should
exist and 1-2cm thickness' mortar covering the proof for protection
purpose. After description on it, I start to go to point: whatever
you take beginning at wall or pan, that is all right, because no
worry to begin from wall for anti-water work has been done and even
from beginning at pan, no help to drain water, all things are up
to the convenience of installation, that is true.
One important thing is attached, if you detect no water proof layer
within bathroom in advance, do inform your clients or do it yourself,
that is very helpful to decrease troubles whatever during installation
or afterward for maintenance. Piness Wang |
| Q 4899: I have a flat
stone hearth that has no luster to it at all. The house is 60 years
plus old.I have tried various marble polishes and waxes but nothing
works. It always goes back to it dull look. Thanks Kim, March 4,
Reply |
| R1:
Kim, you do not mention what kind of stone
your hearth is made of, but it may be a stone that will not polish:
( limestone, sandstone ???) You could try a color enhanser, or if
it is soapstone, mineral oil. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4898: I have recently
constructed a retaining wall in southwestern pennsylvania using
large (1 ton) indigenous boulders that i thought were limestone.
They are tan / gray in color and react to hydrochloric acid. after
only a few months they seem to be eroding. Is my wall going to crumble
into dust, and is there anything i can do to stabilize or seal them
before this occurs? March 4, Reply |
| R1:
Some limestones are not suitable for construction
purposes. Some are just too soft and absorbant, and wet weather
freeze/thaw cycles will erode them rapidly. Also if the source for
the stone was from a blast area ( highway construction??) any structural
intergity it might have had is gone. JVC, Expert Panelist
|
| |
| Q 4896: I have a project
to transform limestone blocks 4*3*3 into small blocks 2*1*1. I would
like to have a machine made here (Dominican Republic) for economic
reasons. The only part I cannot find here is large diamond disk
or diamond wire. Can you provide any advice/consultancy service
on that topic, ie how to build the machine and what solution is
best? Thank you in advance, Nicolsa, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Maybe I can be of some help. First of all,
for suitability, the client should send some samples off for testing.
At least compression strength (astm-C170), and modulus of rupture
(astm - C99), or, as an alternate, get some information from the
quarry where the blocks were cut from. I am assuming that it is
a locally produced stone. He seems to know how to go about building
the saw he wants to use. The issues here concern how true and square
the finished blocks need to be. Shop built saws generally do not
cut with the precision of commercially manufactured equipment, but
they are common, and do the job. Most use electric motors, but I
am sure a car motor can be rigged to drive a saw blade without any
problem. To cut through a 3 foot block will require at least an
8 foot circular blade. It is important that the plane of the blade
to be as square as possible to the cart table or saw bed. For this
job, the client would probably be best off if they can build a rotating
turn table on the saw cart. That way they could cut the slabs in
one direction, turn the table and cut the slabs at 90degrees without
handling the stone but once. I think you have plenty of sources
for saw blades both for circular blades (the simplest system) or
wires. Some limestones can be cut dry if dust is not an issue, but
wet cutting is better. Which ever, the saw blade needs to be the
right one for the application, and a soft stone blade. |
| Q 4895:I would like
to know how to get cultured rock with a flat bottom to stick to
the cement scratch coat? I know I am to put mortar on the back of
the stone as well as on the wall but they do not stay in place even
after holding for several min. What consistency should the mortar
be? My mix ratio was 1 part mortar to 3 parts sand?? Is this correct?
Traecy, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Traecy, You need to use thinset mortar for
this type of application. You can get it at any of the big boxes
or a tile store. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
Q 4894: I'm an account
manager for a Contracting copmany in Southern California. I'm looking
for a possible answer, someone with a similar situation, or some
insite to the damage which appeared on our marble piece. On one
of our projects we recently had a rather costly piece of Bianco
Venatino marble ($110 a "s.f.") installed over a double
vanity. Upon installation, the piece appeared fine. But within the
first couple of days, two areas at approximate 4 feet apart started
showing a strange triad shaped pattern. This grew very dominate
in appearance within about a week or so and then stopped. The unique
thing about these areas is that the three marks, which look like
a shatter under the surface, each about 3/8" to 1/2" in
diameter, are exactly 2-3/8" (within a 1/16") from each
other within thier traid. AND this is the case in both triads (see
attachments). Two of the six marks have now broken away at the
surface.The property owner saw a piece at a showroom shortly after
and asked the salesperson what the mark under the surface was, and
he replied to her "impact from improper handling. That put
me to think of another possibility.
When we do concrete structures and
have supports bolted to, or when we install railings, the mount
is almost always round with a triad shaped bolt pattern. On researching
marble, I went back to the source, the quarry, and how marble is
removed from the quarries. What I found was ALL this equipment ,
saws, drills, splitters, when being used, is anchored to the stone
around the equipment. The stone around being eventially another
block to be extracted from the quarry! So....my point being, is
it possible that the piece we received might be one which was very
close to the outside of the block, and the bolts, or whatever is
used to anchor the mount to the stone, caused fractures just below
the tips when driven into the stone (which would be the back side
of our piece). Then, the stress from (if you would) "flexing"
under its own weight in the handling and fabrication of this piece,
as well as once installed, the stress put on it from the surface
its mounted to not be a perfect mirror image of the marbles reveal,
could cause these points to continue to shatter until releaved?
Is this a possibility? have you or anyone who is reading this seen
or experience this? Any advice or insite to this matter would be
very much appreciated, Ray green, March 3, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Sir: I go to try
to explain more physically: ALL The materials have a index of dilatation
And this index is unic, each one has a paricular index. So, what
it´s happened is that, the marble is formed basicaly of limy
rocks with layers of sedimentary rocks, so with the increase and
reduction of the temperature and the cleanness becoming the marble
wet , some of these particles in the low marble are broke and same
particles of the above marble are remove thenselves because the
marble of low move differently of the above marble. Some granites
of low quality also occur this, but in the case of
granites it is because of the quartz. I hope that I have clear.
Best Regards. Andrei |
R2:
Dear Ray: I’ve seen the pics. They are stunned crystals all
right. What could have cause them I can’t tell. Your theory
is kinda … fantastic, but you know what? I wouldn’t
discard it. Sure enough I don’t think it could be proved,
if finding the responsible party is what you’re after. By
the way, there’s a remedy that, though not totally 100% could
be acceptable. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in
touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will
be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will
even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do you
want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| R3:
1) Processing blocks is done by decent, hardworking
people who would not jeopardize their or the company's reputation
for selecting defective slabs as 1st quality. Ofcourse there is
always a possibility that your supplier was knowingly buying secondary
quality products that could be reselected and used in commercial
projects where the cost factor holds the main role.
2) Check with your installer.
From your description, the top looked fine when installed and
2 days later it started to transform or shatter.
Was the top installed properly
and comfortably upon the vanity?
Is there anything
underneath the top that is really causing the damage? Evan D.
|
| R4:
I am a stone and construction professor and
willing to answer your question. I draw some conclusion after reading
and watching your pictures attached: the one you got is not a real
marble, instead of a travertine or limestone with plaster stone
mixing structure. As you know, the marks shown in the pictures are
believed into dots of plaster stone which hasn't reacted with water
within air before installation, and I think it will take a long
time to complete the reaction and make people fussy. And you may
take some sections around the mark and send them to lab concerned
to test it. I encountered something similar before and it was just
caused by plaster stone contained in limestone. Piness |
| R5:
Most of the Carrara
marbles, whites and greys, will show bruise marks from impact from
an external force. This would be more evident on a floor surface
subject to commercial pedestrian traffic. Womens high heels can
exert a large force that would in some cases show these marks. I
have been in this business for the last 43 years and have never
heard of the problems that you are describing. Your suggested reason
for the failure is very difficult to agree with because the blocks
are trimmed and shaped for transportation from the quarry to the
fabrication plant which usually trims the outer edges where the
bolt holes are found. However anything is possible as your condition
proves. Gordon
|
| R5:
Seen the attachments.I feel its due to the
porous nature of Marble,unlike granite.Because of this,the rate
of weathering(needn't be due to oxidisation)/tearing away of small
chip will be more prabable. J.Sudhakar,M.Sc., Geologist |
| R6:
The "white point
" you see in the surface is the mark of meccanical tools used
for move the block. Is not natural. We hade a experience with white
marble from Carrarra and this is the unic reasons that you can receive
this defects. Maybe is not the first axterior slab of the blocks
but I'm shure that is the second or third. I'm sure that this defects
not expand in the future. If the "white point" is inside
the small hole is natural only. Best Regards. Giovanni |
| R7:
Well i received ur
message , i got ur point well this damage not seems to be because
of drills or splitters used in quarrying but its a natural defect
which according to me is called PITTING well this because of loose
bounded grains of the material , which is its natural formation
& it can be easily covered without spoiling its ORIGINAL TEXTURE
YUSUF |
| R8:
Stone is a natural product, and expands and contracts very much
like wood products. Marble is a soft product, with veining that
has been heated and cooled to make its veins so to speak. A change
in environment, temperature and humidity, can cause a stone to expand
and contract extremely, and some marbles such as the venato have
lots of small veins, that when they expand and contract cause fissures
and fractures to open up and they become more apparent, which sounds
like you described. Also, being the stone is on a bathroom vanity,
if this is a "wet" bathroom (tub, shower, etc) only adds
to the damage the expansion and contraction does, It sounds like
a naturally occurring process of aclimating of your stone. Has your
stone been sealed with a moisture sealer? This will help eliminate
any additional problems. A good choice of sealers is Miracle 511
Impregnator for moisture and stain. You should seal every year. |
R9:
My experience (30 years) in quarring and working marble, helps me
thinking to have understood what happened. The marks, shown in enclosed
pics, are called, in Carrara quarrymen slang, "taroli".
They are natural little holes inside some types of Carrara White
marble, and, of course, can be on the surface of rough slabs. They
already existed before and during the installation, but invisible
because filled by a special type of epoxy that reflects the stone
colour and covers and hides the holes.
This epoxy is a chemical product and in particular circumstances
can have a chemical reaction.
In my opinion the epoxy, before is become transparent (the marks
under the surface), and after went away (the marks that appear broken
trought to the surface).
I think that the triad shape and the same distance from each other
is a fortuitous event. I hope my explanation has been clear. Dr.
Maurizio Breschi |
R10:
Our company is in
Turkey. Probably we could help you. But the sample of a stone-Biango
Venatino marble first of all is necessary for us. And how many square
meters are laid out by a stone in a show room? If do you want advice-
send us sample with the damaged(injured) stone - 30¬ã¬Þ
¬·30 sm
|
| |
| Q 4892: I have a few
questions about installing 81 x81 Crema Marfil tiles, 5/8 inch thick.
Most of the tiles I received have the mesh glued to the back, but
a few do not. Should I not use these un-meshed ones, or not worry
about it. On a couple of these, I can feel the veining on the back
with my finger, will these break later, as opposed to the ones with
no cracks? I don't want them to break while I cut them either. Also,
the backs of some of these tiles were marked at the quarry with
painted on numbers, like stock numbers. While washing the backs
of them to remove dust, I could not remove the paint. Big deal or
no? Thanks in advance for your help... Dominic, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dominic: Here are my answers to your questions:
No (don’t worry). No, they should not if well installed and
well handled. No, no big deal. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
The mesh is reinforcing,
commonly used for al lveiny types like Crema Marfil, Emperador Dark,
Rojo Alicante someimes Botticino. If you are hoping to cut these
tiles and not experience any wastage you are mistaken all of the
above require more stone than actually will be laid becuase they
do tend to fall apart much easier than let's say a carrara type
stone. EM |
| Q 4891: I
have 16 year old marble in my entry, and both bathrooms. It has
never been polished and looks terrible. I paint, do landscaping,
plumbing and just about everything but electrical..can I polish
this marble myselft? If so, how? Do I need a sealer? Help : ) Also,
there are some chips, corners that have been broken and fell out.
Is there some sort of filler that I can use that would match the
color marble I have? Thanks for your advice! Kristine, March 3,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kristine:
A certain saying goes: “It often happens that people who say
that it can’t be done are shut up by somebody who just did
it!” It is not going to happen this time, and you can take
that to the bank!It won’t be easy to find a good stone restoration
professional, either: you’d better watch out! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4890: I'm a student
at Grand Valley State University studying Geology. In one of my
classes I'm required to analyze a sample of granite to determine
its chemical makeup, mineral composition, and textural features.
I have been told that the common name for the sample is Coffee Brown
or possibly Imperial Brown. I believe it most resembles Coffee Brown.
Could you please tell me as much information as you can about this
granite? I would specifically like to know where it was quarried,
and its age, so that I can determine the details of its crystallization.
If you know of anyone else who could give me more specific answers,
could you please recommend them to me. Thank so much for your time!
Jeremy, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeremy:
Have you consulted the table of the 150 most popular granites by
Dr. Daniel? You can also ask findstone.com management to put you
in touch directly with him. He’s a very nice guy, whom I’m
proud to consider my friend. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4889: I
have marble flooring in my entry way. There is a 3 inch border of
dark green marble. I have noticed that the marble is starting to
chip in some places and has some white residue. Is this due to moisture?
Is the dark green more porrus? The green buts up to a wall and the
other side of the wall is a planter. Is this only going to get worse
what is your suggestion. Should I put a sealer on it to prevent
more chipping? Help... March 3, Reply |
| R1:
What’s a planter? You have moisture migrating
through the core of the stone tiles, which produces the efflorescence
that bleed onto the surface in the form of a whitish powder. It
digs hole in the stone, too. It’s not going to get better,
and no sealer will do anything to help. Since I don’t know
what a planter is, I can’t help you finding out the reason
of the presence of the moisture. Maurizio |
| R2:
I read your question
and maurizio's response. I specialize in water and fire damage restoration.
I don't know alot about natural stones but deal with your kind of
problem daily. Your assumption to moisture is correct, but the solution
is not so easy. The moisture is most likely from the planter. The
white residue is as Maurizio stated, efflourescence, from high moisture
emissions. Planter's have become real problems due improper installations.
If your wall construction is all block, you can have the soils dug
out below (at least 8" to 12" below your interior floor
elevation. Allow this wall area at least two to four weeks to dry
out. Then have the exterior wall area sealed with multiple coats
of a water proofing sealant, say an elastomeric membrane paint,
or some sort of non-hardening, pliable, thick, water resistant coating.
Clean the exposed wall area thouroughly with a wire brush (no water).
Coat this wall area from lowest point up to desired ground elevation
of planter. When you fill the planter back in, be sure to compact
the soil up to the exterior ground elevation or 6" below interior
slab elevation (WHICH EVER IS LOWEST). Before going any further,
be sure you have drainage through the planter walls, allowing trapped
water in the planter to migrate out and away from your house. Fill
the next 4 to 6 inches of your planter with gravel, this assures
drainage and helps prevents drain openings in planter walls from
clogging. Continue filling the planter with soils up to about an
inch or two from desired level (1 to 2 inches below water proof
coating). After placing plants back in planter, use bark, or other
loose, light weight ground cover to fill in around plants and bring
planter level up to top level of water proof coating. If your wall
between the marble entry and exterior planter is a wood frame with
drywall or plaster interior, and a stucco, wood, or brick veneer
exterior. Consult a Restoration Specialist, a general contractor
specializing in water damage restoration (certified restorer). Depending
on how long this has been seeping through the wall, you may have
structural damage (wet rot and deterioration to wall frame) and
mold growth on wall cavity interior (requiring a mold remediation
contractor and an environmental report for proper protocol if interior
is exposed, and interior clearance for health issues). In this case,
after repairs, do not reinstall planter unless it is stepped out
from the house, enclosed in it's own four wall, not three and the
forth being the house. keep it at least 6" or more away from
the house. On a last note...on the subject of moisture and stone.
If your area (neighborhood), has a high water table, or the area
you live in has high percepitation, our your property is built on
hillside neighborhoods with properties above you with possible ground
water runoffs, etc. Your should request a calcium chloride test
(60 to 72 hour controlled moisture test) to determine moisture emission
from your concrete slab. Moisture emissions should not exceed 5
lbs. moisture emissions per 1000 s.f. At 8 lbs moisture emission,
efflourescence starts, and on sealed surface materials, clouding
and "picture framing" will occur under the surfaces. Bonding
of stone, tiles, etc. is a problem being the surface is already,
more or less, saturated and bonding material cant draw down into
the porousness of the slab. These surfaces must be sealed with resins
that, after drying, do not allow emissions through. There are not
many products on the market that are applicable, and the companies
seal slabs are extremely expensive. P.s. Don't contact your isurance
company on this one. Seepage from your planter is considered ground
water. An exclusion on your homeowners policy, Unless you have a
"flood policy" attached to your homeowners policy (if
your not sure, you most likely don't as you would have had to requested
it). Reporting a claim like this can cause your rates to go up,
or worse, get your policy cancelled due to "lack of maintenance".
Good luck. Ray |
| Q 4888: I
think I have damaged my customers Black Marble bathroom floor. Fortunately
& un-fortunately the customer is my Mother-In-Law. It started
with a trip to Home Depot, picked up that Miracle product to remove
the so often talked about water stains. Well I put all 245 lbs of
my effort in to rubbing the marble with a nylon scrubbing pad and
two level polishing cream. Now that I cannot get a shine back and
the marble looks like crap (very dull & patchy), what stage
do you think that I would best start for grit? I could not have
done too much damage, could I? I have to do this myself and learn
from my errors, I never give up. I have a 4 inch angle grinder but
would really apreciate some additional details from what I have
read in the postings. I think that the biggest problem is to find
a location to get the materials reguired. I will experiment with
a stone bwhind the door as not to make it worse, Ron, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: Are you sure that you want to get into this? It’s
over the head of any DIYer, I can promise you that, especially with
black marble!If you really insist, I do believe I have the solution
to your problem, but, believe you me, is going to be tough and I
can’t promise you any good result. Gimme a holler. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4887: I recently
had my kitchen renovated using GT Blue Pearl granite for the benchtops.
It was not supported well and some cracking occurred around the
sink cutout. The supplier has been ask to replace this. My issue
is will the granite he uses to replace the damaged peice with be
a colour match of the original granite that he used. The granite
he intends to use came from another shipment. The original benchtops,
one an island benchtop all came from the one slab of granite so
that it was all matching. Was are his chances of a good colour match?
Rgds Ian, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ian: You’re a Brit chap, ain’t ya! Do you really
believe that anybody can actually answer your question?! :-) Anyway,
given the particular type of stone, there are good chances!, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4886: I have read
carefully all the questions and responses on this site pertaining
to limestone, and I am confused. (I have just purchased 1700 sq.
ft. of what I find to be the most beautiful stone I've come upon
in my search for flooring for a house remodel -- it's purported
to be European moleanos blue-beige limestone, 81" x 81"
x5/8", lightly polished (honed?) but not shiny like marble.
A couple of the experts, in response to questions by others, said
absolutely, positively, under no circumstances would they have limestone
in their homes -- but they didn't explain why? Yet, other experts
and other websites that I've turned up in my search say that limestone
has been used successfully for centuries, both as external cladding,
internal cladding and flooring. Given that I have already purchased
these tiles, could anyone out there please tell me more about what
I have bought, what problems I might expect (and what the benefits,
if any, might be of this stone), and of what precautions you would
advise I take to ward off the potential problems I might encounter.
By way of clarification, in case the name of the stone is not easily
recognizable, the stone appears to me to be very heavy, very fine
grained, densely packed (no holes to be filled like travertine),
a fleshy beige color with wide (8") veins of a very light bluish/ash
graye running through it, with evidence of very tiny shells and
other fossils. As a lover of both antiques and fossils, I just love
the look of this stone -- I'm just praying I won't live to regret
having it in my home! Any info/advice you can offer will be much
appreciated, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Most limestone installations are successful. But I am a stone maintenance
guy and success stories don’t interest me. The failure stories
do! And I’ve seen enough of them in my professional life (and
heard of, too!) to make me conclude that I wouldn’t want limestone
in my own house. What can cause the problems that I witnessed (all
of which with no solution)? I don’t know, is the honest answer.
Fact is that nobody knows! Only wild guesses. So, the way I see
it, whoever buys limestone – though the odds are largely in
his or her favor – does that at his or her own peril! Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| R1:
You are absolutely right limestone has been used for centuries.
The White House is built from a limestone from Croatia that has
also built many of the local Croatian cities and an abundance of
grand building throughout Europe. Limestone like any other stone
various - the key is which one to use. Preferably dense limesotne
is better than the very porous type. Your choice is good. Crema
Marfil Botticino etc are in fact limestones as well but people are
not afraid of using them. These are used widely for commercial projects,
hotel lobbies etc. The stone you have chosen is from Portugal and
is very popular. Seal your stone well and you shouold have many
years of happy living. Your floor will outlive you and the next
few generations. EM |
| Q 4885: I
would like to purchase information on installing 12" Black
Galaxy granite tiles on kitchen countertops. We would also like
to purchase information on sealing, maintenance and care of the
granite tiles. Could you send us a list of your information that
you have for sell? We are planning to use unsanded grout with 1/16"
joints. Your web site has been very informative but we need more
in depth information, Cindi, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cindi: I do believe I can help you out. Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com and get
in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will
be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will
even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do you
want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4884: I had Kashmir
Gold installed in the kitchen last week, and my faucets hooked up
a few days later. Now there are rings around each of the faucets
and the sprayer. My granite co. tells me its because my plumber
used Plumber's Putty when putting in the faucets. How can I remove
this stain? I tried using a poultice with baking soda with no luck-
looks even worse. We are taking the faucets out and were told to
use silicone on them instead of plumbers putty. Any suggestions
would be very helpful! Judy, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judy: Plumber’s Putty’s a
killer all right! That stain will be extremely difficult to remove,
especially considering the degree of absorbency of your stone. Try
to poultice it with Methylene Chloride. If you’re lucky, after
a half a dozen attempts, you just might be able to minimize the
appearance of the stain. After that, yes, 100% silicone is the way
to go. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4883: I recently
installed a granite counter top in my kitchen (Atlantic Green -
dark) and need to remove a stain, the surface was never sealed.
I expect the stain was the result of a pot lid that was placed on
the counter, it was used to cook chili so I’m assuming the
moisture that left the stain had some acid in it. The stain is light
in color compared to the rest of the top. How do you suggest I clean
this and what type of sealer do you recommend after the stain is
removed. Thank You Jim , March
3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: I’m afraid you’ve got
a problem. A stain is always darker than the color of the stone.
If it’s a lighter color is a “stain”: an acid
etch, that is, that no impregnator/sealer for stone (that I believe
your granite doesn’t need, anyway) could have prevented. What
you’re reporting is quite unusual, but, since it happened,
your only option is to get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
professional who can deal with “granite”. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4882: Does Granite
and marble coexist in the earth as a result of pressure or composition?
Afriend told me a marble dealer explained that marble becomes granite
or visa versa because of time and pressure. My father in law(passed
on about 7 years ago) established the World Stone Heritage Foundation
and I remembered him telling me many stories about marble but not
any thing about granite being in some sort of chain to it. I thought
I was told it was different basic ingredients. What do you say.
Ruth, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ruth: At the end of a long day, I always
hope in some posting like yours to get amused. It’s not you,
mind you: it’s what they told you! It sounds like alchemy
to me: some magic formula to make lead turn into gold!! So, now
marble – a calcite, metamorphic stone – can become granite,
which is a silicate igneous rock!! Tell your informers to keep their
mouth shut if they don’t want to make a mockery out of themselves!!
:-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Ruth, As I recall
Marble is limestone that has gone through a metamorphic change,
this could be pressure or possibly heat or both. Granite is I believe
an igneous rock limestone is I believe sedemintary so I would not
think one could become the other. Regards Richard |
| |
| Q 4880: My
kitchen countertop was installed over a year ago. I don''t know
the name but it has mainly browns, tans and some light pinks. It
is a natural pattern not the very tight ones you commonly see. It
makes it look more natural. Lately it seems to look a little filmy.
I clean the heck out of it with soapy water. I've used a razor to
scrape film. There seems to be some clear (could it be quartz mixed
in) that makes it look a little cloudy. What can I use to cut the
filmy appearance. Will resealing help? Can it be repolished? 2.
Had a top installed in the bathroom that has a small hole in it.
Can it be filled with something? b. Downstairs had marble top installed
on small vanity. I can see some scratches in it. Should I complain?
Some are circular and others look like lines. I only see it when
the light hits it right. Is it normal. Paul,
March 3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Paul: 1. Soapy water, huh … No wonder it’s filmy!! Resealing
wouldn’t to a darn thing, since sealers for stone are meant
to go IN the stone, not ON it.2. If the hole is small, to be filled
it has to be made bigger (with a drill bit or something.3. It is
not normal, but you can live with it. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4879: I
have a piece of marble that is a thin layer over wood. I took it
to be fixed (scratches) and they said that they are unable to fix
it unless I want indents on the surface. Since it is on\ver wood,
it cannot withstand the marble machine. Is there a filler product
that can cover the scratches? Pam, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Pam: How thin can it be?! … Anyway,
no, there’s nothing available to fill the scratches. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4878: What
are good products (DIY or storebought) for cleaning and maintaining
(1) marble bathroom countertop (2) marble bathrooom floor? Jill,
March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jill: You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4877: I have an
old clock that appears to be made from black onyx. It has some sort
of stain across it - something that looks like a water mark or perhaps
from some other liquid. What would you recommend to clean this w/o
damaging the stone? Kavoshi, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There’s a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but I’ll be glad
to help. What’s more I will even tell you how to get all of
your money back! What more do you want from me? :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4876: I
just had travertine installed in a bathroom on the floor and it
looks great. Trouble is the company that refinished the tub spilled
acid on it and now it has dull water like spots all over it. It
had been sealed prior to this. Is there a product out there that
will fix this problem? Parker, Thanks. March
2, Reply
|
| R1:Dear
Parker: Which goes to prove once more – like if there were
any need for it – that sealing travertine (or any polished
marble, for that matter) is a totally useless exercise!!If the “water
spots” are dull but still with a tiny bit reflection and smooth,
then I could help you. If instead are VERY dull and a little rough,
then you need the services of a professional stone refinisher. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4875: We are trying
to decide what material to use for countertops in a small kitchen.
We were leaning toward granite, but I was concerned about the care
required to prevent staining. After reading several discussion on
Findstone and other sites, I conclude that prevention of staining
requires a lot more effort for granite than for laminates. (We have
had Formica countertops for 35 years, and they are showing their
age, but stains were never a problem.) If you believe we have come
to an erroneous conclusion, perhaps you can provide some facts that
will change our minds. lee,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lee: Most mercantile granite are very enjoyable and just as
worry-free as laminated countertops. It’s all in the know-how
to choose the right stone! I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m
not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the
next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the
factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!I
did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for a
Granite Kitchen Countertop” .Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Nothing beats the look of stone - Granite etc. All stones at some
point will stain as they are porous. A good sealer will prevent
any major disasters. I have had my granite top in for many years
- not sealed and looks fantastic - oh yes, I look mainly Italian
with lots of sauces and tomato - never a problem. Stay away from
black - choose a stone that has body in there or cystals. EM |
| Q 4874: After installing
and enjoying Absolute Black countertops in my previous house, I
just had them installed in my new house. The other night, I set
down a wet bottle of Palmolive dish detergent, and when I picked
it up about an hour later, there was a white-ish stain the shape
of the bottle's bottom. I am hoping you can provide a remedy to
remove the stain. I do not know whether the stone was sealed and
I have not called the well-known company that did the installation,
as they did a terrible job of cutting the stone accurately and also
damaged my walls, backsplash, and cabinets. Donna, March
2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Donna: Since you can’t (or don’t want – same
difference!) call back your fabricator, I do believe I have the
solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4873: I
have limestone on my floor in the bathroom. I went to clean my grout
line with ZAP (have you heard of the product) it left a residue
line along the grout line. How do I get it off? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Grej, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Grej: ZAP, an strong acidic product, corroded the limestone
where you hit it. You need the services of s bona fide stone restoration
professional. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Once you hae managed to clean it off
seal your floor - the selaer will then also protect the grout. EM |
| Q 4870: We
have a huge, old house with a sandstone foundation. (It's probably
at least 100 years old. I have no idea what kind of sandstone it
is... It's probably local to the PA USA area. Efflorescence is really
bad! I'm trying to find a way to seal the sandstone once it is scraped/brushed
clean. I found a product tonight on the internet manufactured by
The Glason Group in Australia. It is called A.F. Seal. Do you know
anything about it? The info says it will penetrate up to 25mm in
sandstone. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you. Sincerely, Charlene,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Charlene, I am a stone mason from Pennsylvania. If the effloresscene
you are describing is in way of a stain it is probally a reaction
of the mortar and the stone caused by the moisture in the earth.
Has this house been repointed or does it have the originall sand
and lime mortar. Lime in old mortar will tend to leach out of mortar
dissolve into water then precipitate onto the stone. This process
also weaken the mortar. However it is not good to repoint with too
much cement in the mortar as the sssandstone tends to absorb water
and expand faster then high cement mortars which causes pressure
on the face the stone and sometimes causes it to flake of. Sealing
the stone is a good idea especially below ground. I am not familiar
with the product you mentioned but a good Thompsons water seal product
will do make sure it is clear try a small patch to make sure it
is clear, the stone should be dry when it is applied and it will
probally soak up multiple coats. Below grade plastering on a parge
coat might be a better alternative. Good Luck Richard |
Q 4869: I
installed black honed granite in my kitchen countertop and am not
happy with the way it had been honed. I can see the swirling marks
and it seemed it was honed in an inconsistent manner, meaning the
swirls go every which way. It looks like someone with greasy fingerprints
ran their fingers in all different directions and left the marks
on it. The fabricators did a good job in installation, and he said
if I was not happy with the granite, he will replace it with another
slab. First of all, I do not want it ripped out as much as possible,
just thinking of the damage it may do to my new kitchen cabinets.
I will pay for anykind of literature you have that will help me.
Do you recommend I have the
fabricators do diamond grinding and honing and decide whether it
looks any better and if not, let them rip them out. And if I do
have them rip the granite out, should I not have them seal it? I
did buy your color enhancer but found out I cannot apply this on
my granite since they had already sealed it. Please let me know
as soon as possible in obtaining any kind of literature, that willl
help me make a decision. Carolyn, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carolyn: You don’t need to buy any
kind of literature. You don’t need to have your countertop
ripped out, either. You fabricator needs to buy a good-quality honing
powder. With they right tool they will remove all the swirl marks
in not time and give you a finish as uniform as they come! There’s
an extra bonus tio that: the honing powder will take care to remove
the stupid sealer, too! Have you fabricator get in touch with me
And I’ll be glad to help them. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4868: My kitchen
counter tops are Bianco Roma and were supposedly sealed before installation
2 years ago. My coffee maker left a rust stain that I didn't see
until recently when I replaced the coffee maker. I've tried poultices
of strong Hydrogen Peroxide to no effect, and a special rust remover
product from Stonecare International that slightly dimmed the stain
but also left a small pit in the counter. Is there anything I can
do? Should I just clean everything and apply more sealer to help
prevent future stains, or will this surely set the stain forever?
Sandra, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true
professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you (and that
can pierce holes in your granite! By the way, why don’t you
call them up and ask them what you can do with your hole?! I’m
sure they will try to sell you something to fill it!!), or you can
spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove
stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you
may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4867: I
want to tile my shower with travertine tiles just like the bathroom
floor 81" X 81" tiles. How do I cut the tiles and drill
holes for the shower head and handle? The tiles look to have a few
pits in them do they need filled? Tim, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear tim: To cut them you need a marble tile cutter. To drill the
holes you need diamond coated cup bits of the appropriate diameter.
I would fill the holes. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4866: I
Have a flagstone patio that was installed last Fall on a gravel
and sand base with dry mortared joints. This winter the top of the
motared joints have begun to "shale" off in small flat
pieces. What can be done to fix this ? Jlu, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Bricks laid on a sand
base should have brushed sand grout, onl bricks cemented down should
have mortar joints. Your best bet in a bad situation like this is
to make sure the undrelying sand has a form around it so that it
can not esape. The mortar joints will only last as long as the underlying
layer of sand and gravel remains stable.Regards Richard |
| Q 4865: Can
someone give me some direction for installing Thassos marble tile
around a soaking tub ? Then place where I purchased the tile told
me to seal the tile prior to installation while others have said
it is okay to seal the tile afterwards. Help is appreciated. Thank
you ! Jewel, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jewel: Some jewel of an information, you’ve got! It is
not OK to seal the tiles afterwards: it’s MANDATORY!! First,
I wouldn’t bother to seal White Thassos (or any other polished
marble, for that matter!) if it were my own bathroom, but if, for
some mysterious reason that evade my comprehension you insist on
the sealing thing, you should not seal any earlier than a couple
of weeks AFTER installation and grouting, in order not to trap the
moisture of the setting material in. I feel very strongly that you
need some solid maintenance information, rather than this sealing
cacamania! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4863: We
had the granite santa cecila, I believe was the name installed in
the kitchen.. It has gold tones in it. We had two stains within
the first month of purchase.Oil and a iced tea stain. They removed
the stains with a poultice and resealed the countertops. The stain
did come out. Should I put another coat of sealer on top of that.
If not how often should I reseal it. It looks like it might never
have been sealed properly to begin with. Before water rings would
stay soon after leaving a wet dish on it(which would dry soon fter).
Now you put water on it and the water moves around and doesn't immediately
absorb. I would like to maintain the stone but don't want to overseal.
How many coats are normally put on this color of granite. SCVOL,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear SCVOL: How many applications of the sealer? It all depends
on the stone AND the type of sealer. The stone I know, the sealer
I don’t. Typically, if the impregnator/sealer used by your
fabricator is one formulated for very porous stones, then two coats
should do with your “granite”. If it’s thinner,
you may need more than that. I mean, why doesn’t your fabricator
know that?! I’m vondering what they told you about routine
maintenance … water and soap dish, or glass cleaner perhaps?
… I wouldn’t be surprised! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are
worth every single penny and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind
document that you won’t find anywhere else, I promise! What’s
more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4861: We have been
alerted to some problems associate with black Veined marble from
chine and possibly throughout world. we have found that their is
a certain decomposition when polishing. Can this be corrected by
coating marble for floor tiles on a regular basis or is it prudent
to stay away from black marble for floor tiles? Best Regards, M.
Fay, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Fay: Yes, you’ve heard it right:
black marble tiles are no good for floors. The Chinese one in particular.
It is an excellent stone, but almost impossible to service. Stay
away from it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4860: I stupidly
did some repair work on an old candlestick on a granite countertop,
getting a few spots of superglue on the granite. What is the best
way of removing it without damage to the granite, which of course,
I will polish after the superglue is removed? Jack, March 2, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Jack: Use a brand new razor blade. Follow with a piece of cotton
ball and some acetone. Do NOT try to polish your stone. You wouldn’t
know where to begin! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4859: I
am interested in obtaining knowledge and equipment to engrave (i.e.
sandblasting) words and messages on rocks. Can you give some direction?
Welker, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Welker, This is usually done with the aid of a heavy rubber coated
tape the areas one does not want abraided are covered with the tape
letters or dates can be cut out the tape is then taped onto the
rock. The sandblasting medium removes everything else. You must
protect yourself and others.from breathing or other exsposure to
the dust and the blasting medium. Regards Richard |
| |
| Q 4857: We
purchased a new home with uba tuba kitchen counters. love them..
What can I use as a daily maintenance care routine. I am afraid
i will wreck them. the builder said to not use anything acidic....so
what can I use. thanks, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4856: What
type of sealer do you recommend for granite? And how often should
it be applied? We have granite in the bathroom (shower and counter)
and in the kitchen (counter) Also, what do you recommend for cleaning
granite? What do you recommend for cleaning grout lines in the shower?
Will certain products hurt the granite? Tom, March
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tom: You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R1:
DEAR TOM, WE RECOMEND STONE GUARD MADE BY
SCI. IF DONE PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME YOU ONLY NEED TO RESEAL EVERY
2 TO 3 YEARS. MARBLEMIST IS A GOOD EVERYDAY CLEANER AND FOR THE
BATHROOMS I USE COUNTERIFIC(WHICH IS A DISINFECTANT) ANY PRODUCTS
THAT ARE ACIDIC WILL REMOVE THE SEALER AND CAN LEAVE YOUR STONE
DULL. GOOD LUCK. H.G. |
| Q 4855: Would
you reccommend good reliable companies that refurbish marble in
the west palm each, florida area. thanks, Joe, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: No, I don’t know anybody in your neck of the woods.
And … you’d better watch out! Stone refinishing is the
very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive
article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor,
which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent
choice. It does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your
stone, you don’t want to take chances without it! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! What’s
more, I will even show you a way to get all of your money back!
You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to
natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can
tell from several of this very site postings! Don’t become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| |
| Q 4850: Just purchased
1600 sf honed and filled travertine for condo we own. The purchase
was for the top of the line premium travertine. It arrived with
green and brown mildew stains over approximately half the stone.
I wanted to return it but the vendor and installer assured me that
all the mildew would come out after installation with an application
of a chlorine solution. It was of course, easier to proceed with
the installation than return the stone and I trusted their experienced
opinions and have installed the stone with a mud installation and
1/2 " cork for sound insulation. Now I am quite concerned that
I made a mistake and that even if the discoloration is removed from
the surface with the chlorine, the mildew will remain on the under
side of the stone which was not cleaned. Please advise. Thank you.
Gary, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
R1: Dear Gary: So what? Even if some of the
mildew will remain on the underside of the tiles, what seems to
be the problem? You won’t be seeing it, and it will die out
by starvation anyway. The fact is: I’m not so optimistic about
the removal of it with bleach. I would really appreciate it if you’d
keep me posted on this one. Honest. Maurizio, Export Panelist |
| R2:
The mildew will soon die off and can't be
seen. The cholorine will remove it - test the solution that you
wil lbe using on peices that you have not used. It may take a few
applications but this method is used widely. The mildew sometimes
occures from humid containers, pest controll spraying. It rally
is no big deal. italy ws built on this type of stone and is still
standing. Good Luck. Em |
Q 4849: I have purchased
Imperial White granite tiles. The intended use is in a bathroom
that would be used daily. I have already tiled the floor with the
stone and intend on using it as a backsplash for a neo angle shower.
Also I would do the vanity in a slab of the same stone. When water
gets on the unsealed tile it darkens and then returns to its normal
colour when it dries. After reading some of the questions, I am
now nervous as the stone is very porous. I was told that it could
be sealed and there should be no problem. Is ths like Kashmir White
and not really a granite but really a sandstone?
Now that the floor is tiled, what are my options? The counter fabricator
gave me some of his sealer that he uses for all of his counters.
Is this a good choice? I was planning on sealing it twice. Thanks
for your help. David, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: Yes, Imperial White is some sort
of metamorphic sandstone. It became hard enough and crystallized
enough to take a polish, but it preserved its original absorbency
rate. It can be sealed, but it takes particular sealers for very
porous stones. I really don’t know what your fabricator has.
Where are you from, Canada, UK? … I’m guessing since
you spelled “colour” that way. If you need additional
assistance gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch
with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will even tell
you how to get all of your money back! What more do you want from
me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| R2:
So what if it goes dark when wet - as long
as it dries up. But if you feel you can't live with this apply a
good sealer. EM |
| R3:
YOU SHOULD DEFINATLEY
SEAL THE STONE BUT YOU NEED TO SATURATE THE STONE UNTIL IT WONT
ABSORB ANY MORE SEALER. WE USE STONEGUARD BY SCI AND HAVE NEVER
HAD ANY PROBLEMS. MAKE SURE YOUR STONE IS TOTALY CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE
APPLYING ANY SEALER. H.G |
| Q 4848:
I like the look of soapstone very
much and would like to use it as kitchen countertop, island (with
a cooktop) and in the shower. What are the pros and cons of using
soapstone? I’ve heard that it stains easily; is that true?
I’ve also been told that it is very slippery when wet, however,
it is advertised as being ideal for showers because it is not slippery
when wet. Thanks very much Patti, March
2, Reply
|
| R1:
I do believe I can answer your questions.
Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4846:
I am a furniture designer based in jaipur , India, and wanted to
develop some sandstone tables and tabletops. The problem that I
have is that this sandstone on its own is a porous material and
stains very easily. I am looking for some sort of impregnation/
coating that will prevent it from coffee, red wine, vinegar, oil
, hotwax and hot metal pan ( stains arising from placing a hot metal
pan on the surface stains. The stone in question is the red sandstone
which has been used extensively , traditionally as well as in contemporary
architectural applications. Ayush, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Try a clear water proofer like Thompsons. Regards
Richard |
| Q 4845: I
have just cleaned an unpolished white marble statue using a Prosoco
product (liquid marble cleaner). The statue is in the foyer of a
church, and many, many cute little ladies in babushkas touch or
kiss the statue's feet, leaving lipstick, dirt and oils from their
hands. I want to put some sort of protectant on the surface that
will allow for easier maitenance, but the ones I've seen are either
acrylic (which seems like it would prevent the stone from breathing)
or petroleum-based (which seems like it might stain the stone, no?).
What would you recommend? Or could you refer me to where you've
answered this question before? Thank you so much for your help.
- Georgina, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Georgina: Go to your local Pep Boys and
get the first car wax you can put your hands on. Carnauba wax is
quite good. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4844: I recently
had Uba Tuba installed in my home also. First, I would like to purchase
your maintenance guidelines. Also around my bathroom sink I have
2cm thick Uba Tuba. There is what looks like to me two cracks. The
Marble Company said they were fissures. They do not look like the
other veins and you can feel them with your finger. How can I tell
if they are fissure veins or cracks? Thank you for your help, Sharon,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sharon: Yeah … they’re fissures
all right! That’s what “Michelangelos” try to
tell people all the time when one of their “masterpieces”
cracks! What the heck consumers know about fissures and cracks?!`
Well, one thing is for sure, if you can feel them with your fingertips,
they ain’t fissures!! Ubatuba has very little fissures anyway.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Sharon, fissures you can't feel but can see - Ubatuba very
rare that it has them in any case. Get your tradespeople to replace
them. They have stuffed up and cracked your tiles. EM |
| Q 4843: We have just
installed light honed cross-cut travertine tile in our living room
floor. We have sealed it with TileLab SurfaceGard Penetrating Sealer.
Although the tile seems to be sealed after two coats, it is not
that much more shiny or water-resistant than before we sealed it.
Any recommendation for anything we can use now to make the floor
more stain resistant and more shiny? We purchased AquaMix Floor
Shine & Hardener but we have not used it yet since we found
a website that said it was not appropriate for honed floors. Bill,
March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bill: Just out of curiosity, have you
read the label of that product? It’s an impregnator, penetrating,
below surface sealer, right? And any residue of the product must
be thoroughly removed off the surface of the stone, right? So, what
on earth that product’s got to do with the finish of your
travertine??!! If you wanted it shiny, why did you get it honed??
Besides, whether or not you had impregnated it with that product,
travertine is not porous and won’t absorb much water. You
may have “water marks”, which are not stains, but acid
etchings, but a penetrating sealer like the one you bought (or any
other one on the market, for that matter) can’t do anything
to prevent those. I would urge you to get hold of the merchants
who sold the stone to you and the contractor who installed it in
your home and ask them your questions. They made good money out
of you, didn’t they?! If not, gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert
Panelsit |
R2:
Dear Bill, A penetrating sealer will not make
you travertine more shiny. What ever you do, do not put Stone Shine
and Hardner on your floors. It is a big mistake to try to change
the surface of the travertin. Travertine has areas that are more
porus than others, which causes the final finish when honed to look
varied in it's shine when under the right light. It likewise will
receive any surface
sealer or polish in a varigated manner only complicating your problem
even more. If you are just after a good seal and not trying to make
it shiny, I recommend Aqua Mix Sealer's Choice 15, but you would
have to follow the stripping instructions from the manufacturer
of the sealer you have already used. It might be easier to simply
apply another coat or two (some sealers will require up to 4 coats
on a travertine) and then when it is time to reseal use the Aqua
Mix Sealer's Choice 15. It is a 15 year sealer and will not require
as many coats, Heiner |
| |
| Q 4841: I
am looking for information on how to polish out a couple of gouges
in a piece of granite I am using for a tabletop. Can you give me
some directions? Please advise. Thanks. Helen Wood, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Helen: Yes, I can! The general direction
is the cabinet or drawer where you keep your telephone book. Go
the Yellow Pages and get hold of a bona fide stone restoration contractor,
assuming that you can find one who can handle such type of work.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| |
| Q 4839:
Hello, Can you please give me care
instructions/maintaining instructions for sandstone floor around
my house. PLEASE Erik, March
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Erik: Why don’t you ask the same
question to the merchant who sold the stuff to you and the contractor
who installed in your home? They made good money out of you, didn’t
they? If they don’t have an answer for you, then gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com and
get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you
will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more
I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more
do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4836: I had a Kashmir
White granite countertop installed and have noticed a dark shadow
around the sink perimeter. Is this because there may have been some
oil in the caulk used to set the sink? Also every drop of water
or wet substance shows up instantly as a dark spot. Is this because
it was not sealed properly or is this characteristic of granite.
Next, the contractor did not have the dishwasher in place when the
countertop was installed and my dishwasher was not attached to the
underside of the granite. I need to have this done and am worried
that they will use the right drill bit to do the installation. What
do you recommend for this. Thanks, Eleanor, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eleanor: First issue: If they used plumber
putty or a caulk which was not 100% silicone, there is your problem.
What’s more, your stone was not sealed properly at all. See
my answer to the posting 4834 below. Second issue: I would recommend
that you hire someone who knows what is doing for a refreshing change!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4835: I have a older
100plus year old section of limestone basement - it was finished
on the inside walls with some type of white stucco plaster and it
keeps chipping/ falling off and small amounts of the sand and or
backfill will drain out...the limestone itself is very crumbly if
I try to get too be too aggressive. We live in a sandy area and
the wall doesn't appear to have water leaking in or other problems.
It is just that I want to finish off the walls so they stop needing
repair. I have tried to repair with a plaster stucco but it doesn't
have anything good to stick to and when I do get a section patched
it doesn't seem to last long. How would you handle this inside wall
finish/ repair Thanks Nathin Davisson, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Nathan you need to remove questionable material
until you have something solid to start on. If there is nothing
solid you will need to fasten wire lathe to the stone with tapcon
screws. Thouroseal makes a bonding compound you can apply to the
wall once it is clean this will increase the bond between the plaster
and the wall. You problaly want to use a fifty percent lime brick
type mortar for your first coat. Regards Richard |
| Q 4834: I
recently put in granite counter tops and am having trouble with
stains and spotting. The salesman called the stone - Ivory Brown.
When I purchased this from him, I was never told about any potential
staining problems. I have two small kids, and things are constantly
getting on the counter tops. The first time I noticed a problem
was from Peanut Butter that was spilled. The oil from the Peanut
Butter left a stain. In addition, water spatters from the sink left
spots. The company has been out twice to reseal the counter tops,
but the problem persists. They are refusing to do anything else
for me. What do you suggest I do at this point? Any help would be
appreciated - I spent a lot of money on these counter tops and I
certainly would like to have them look good for a long time to come.
Thanks, Bohn, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bohn: And “Michelangelo” strikes
again! I hate to ask you this, but did you get the lowest bidder?…Anyway,
Ivory Brown is an extremely absorbent stone (as you already found
out) and needs to be sealed professionally (the clowns who fabricated
it for you do not qualify as professionals in my book for what you’re
reporting to us) with the right sealer and in the right way. Get
hold of a bona fide stone restoration contractor. They will have
to strip the impregnator that has been applied so far and start
anew with a better product for the stone at hand. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R1:
It sounds like you
idn't get the right infor. Did you ask the right questions??? Yes
your stone should have been sealed but did you really expect to
purchase product and not get any information on it prior to doing
so. Use good stonemasons and pay the extra money - it usually for
their knowledge. Best of luck EM |
| Q 4833: We just had
a marble floor installed in the kitchen and my husband thought the
floor should shine like a mirror. Well he tried to strip the floor
and then he put a marble enhancer on the floor. This left the floor
with a dull gray film over it. The floor was black now it looks
gray. What can we do now to get back the black original color? Linda,
March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: Wow, wow, WOW!!! Oh my! …
Black marble floor in a kitchen!! And than this stripping and color
enhancing thing?? … Stripping it from what? Did those tiles
came with wax on them?? Now you listen to me: you would need a bona
fide stone restoration contractor (you won’t find many available
to do black marble!) to restore your marble (figure anywhere between
$4 and $6 per square foot, unless you get a quack), but the best
piece of advice I can give to you is this: GET RID OF THAT FLOOR
AS QUICK AS YOU CAN!! Remember, it’s only money, and your
mental health is priceless. By the way, don’t forget to send
a heart-felt thank you note to the merchant who sold the marble
to you and the contractor who installed on your floor without warning
you about the problems (nightmares better defines it) that you WILL
have with it! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4832: Could
you tell me how to best clean my granite kitchen counters. They
are slabs of Venitian Green Granite? I use soap and water but there
seems to be a film build-up. Thank You, Cammie, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cammie: You’d better believe that you have a soap film
build-up! Proper maintenance of stone kitchen countertops is a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users
tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular
glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the
speed of light!). Don’t become another statistic! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4829: We have recently
had a beautiful granite counter installed in our new custom kitchen.
After looking at many stones we chose ghibli. We knew nothing about
granite and bought only with aesthetics in mind. After only a few
months we noticed what appeared to be an oil stain. Being a complete
novice I took bad advice and tried to "burn" out the stain
with a blow torch ( well you are probably wincing by now) and it
cracked. It is a hairline crack about two inches long from the front
edge back. Also the stain seems to have darkened. The crack is barely
visible, but my concern is that it will grow. Is there any way to
apply a glue or bonding agent to prevent this? Also can anything
be done about the stain? Ron, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: What a mess, huh!! :-) Well, now that you’ve “cooked”
your oil real good I don’t know if the stain can be removed.
Considering that you have a crackline issue to solve (certainly
NOT a DIY project!), I’d encourage you to hire a stone restoration
contractor to try tackling both problems. You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations (it looks like you
need them real bad!!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4828: I had Uba Tuba
Granite installed in my kitchen three years ago during a renovation.
I have my oven in a cabinet base in the island. The problem is that
every time I clean the oven I have noticed two crack lines equidistant
from the edges of the oven going up the granite. They started out
very small and it wasn't until the last time that I cleaned the
oven that I noticed the cracks becoming more prominent and larger.
I just realized the connection. I have contacted the stone retailler
and the oven manufacturer, Both have never heard of such a thing
happening! HELP!! I spent $2000.00 on an oven so I wouldn't have
to clean it and now I have to use spray oven cleaner because I'm
afraid the cracks will get larger and the granite will eventually
be in three pieces. Have you ever come across this problem? Anne,
March 1, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Anne: Nope, never came across anything
like that. I have no answer for you. Sorry. You should try to call
a professional stone restoration contractor and see if they can
come up with a solution to your problem once they can actually see
it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
It sounds more like
these cracks are stress cracks from lack of good support on a narrow
strip of the stone where it is the weakest. You should have a professional
stone installation company take a look at it. Heiner |
| |
| Q 4826: I
have three baths that have 25 year old cultured marble tops. Some
have scratches from getting glue off them. The molded sinks that
are attached have lost their luster and 2 have water stains in them
that will not come out. We are selling the house this year and wonder
about having these cultured marble vanities resurfaced. We saw this
at the Home Show and did like the gloss matte finish but need to
hear from those who have had this done. Will this last? Advantages?
Disadvantages. Thanks, macy, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Macy: I don’t know if there’s
a site like this one on the net that gives advice about plastic,
but there is where you should be posting your questions. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
I am suprised that hot water would have caused
this problem, it may actually be calcium or lime deposit from the
water itself. Try a small amount of CLR (Calcium Lime and Rust remover)
on a rag (follow all safety instructions on lable) and try to wipe
off the greying area. Rinse off right away as the acids in the CLR
can etch the gelcoat if left on for very long. Try wipe and rinse
wipe and rinse a few times, if there is no improvement after 3 or
4 trys stop. If you have access to a rotary buffer (like a car wax
buffer) try some automotive car polish and buff the area. This removes
small surface scratchs and may remove the very top layer of the
gelcoat that is "fogged". I hope this helps you. Good
Luck, Bill Findstone "Expert" Advisor |
| |
| Q 4824: I
have a chip on the edge of the sink on my granite counter. How can
I fix it? March 1, Reply |
| R1:
If you still have the chip, glue it on with
regular household cement or “Crazy Glue”. If not, either
you hire a stone restoration contractor, or you learn how to live
with it! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4823: How
should I clean grease stains from granite slab counter in a kitchen,
Larry, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Larry: When it comes to stain removal,
either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits”
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household!, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4822: We
have just surfaced our kitchen countertop with 12X12 granite tiles.
The name of this tile is Bianco Catalina and the box indicates it
is a product of China. I have used a sealer/inpregnator with Teflon
by the instructions on the bottle. I have gone through this process
now four times, allow to absorb, wiping off excess, and allowing
to dry for a day or so before coating again. I am still getting
dark water spots and am wondering if I would have been better to
have used some sort of oil rubbed into the granite (as is done with
soapstone). Do you know anything about this particular granite and
it's characteristics. I am sadly learning too late that all granite
is not equal. Kathi from Lithia Springs, GA March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathi: No, I don’t know anything about that particular
granite. I don’t even know what it is. Did you take a look
at Dr. Daniels table of the 150 most popular granites? Anyway, forget
about the oil thing. Keep on sealing using the technique you mentioned
until it won’t absorb anymore. If you won’t reach that
point, then Teflon-based impregnator is not “your man”
for that particular stone. Maurizio |
| R2:
Dear Kathi: I think
the proper cliche would be "not all sealers are created equally."
Don't fret though, you should rest at ease knowing that it's not
the expensive part-the stone. If you are not getting a good seal
after 4 coats it might not be the right sealer for this application.
I have found that for polished granites, the SCI sealer works great,
and for more porous stones like travertine, the Aqua Mix Sealer's
Choice 15 is the best. It pays to buy the more expensive sealers.
You would need to strip the previous sealer before attempting to
apply a different sealer. heiner |
| Q 4821: I
have a double soapstone set-tub which has developed some cracks
and is leaking. The cracks are not along a seam. What would be the
best method of repairing? I would need to do this without removing
the sink. Thank you very much. Peter. March 1, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Peter: Two-parts epoxy glue is “your man”. I’d
call a pro though! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 4820: Gentlemen;
I had a white ceramic vase of flowers on my green marble counter
and the water seeped through the bottom on the vase and left a white
oval ring on the marble. Please advise as to what to do to get rid
of the ring. Helpe! Thank you for your time and attention. Sincerely,
Sue J. Norton, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Norton: If it were regular marble I’d
say that I have the solution to your problem, but being green marble
(I must assume an ophicalcite, due to the type of damage you got),
your only option is to hire a professional stone refinisher to hone
and polish your table top. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4819: When
you first down marble floors, must you polish them before wetting
them or do you wipe them with ammonia. Please help? March 1, Reply |
| R1: What
on earth are you talking about??!! Be more specific and I’ll
see what I can do to help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| R2: What,
start again what do you really want to know - what stone did you
use etc. EM |
| Q 4816: I
am tiling a backsplash in marble. I am using 12x12 pieces on the
diagonal. I need to know what to use a thin-set or a mastic. I am
also wondering to have a "seamless" look, should I use
a caulk instead of a grout. I need to know exactly which products
to use because I am getting conflicting reports. Thanks. Jacqueline,
March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jacqueline: Use a rapid setting stone adhesive (available at
the Home Depot). Yes, caulk is definitely a better choice over grout.
Use the latex-based one: much easier to apply and clean off. Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q 4815: Help!
I have water spots on my travertine dining table (glass rings,etc.)
Any suggestions on how to remove these spots? I have tried everything.
Thank you, Rose, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rose: You didn’t
try everything! You still have to try the right thing!! :-) I do
believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4814: We
bought our home 4 years ago and was told that the fireplace stone
was granite. We also have a wall in the kitchen that is "granite"
with an oven installed. What can I use to clean this stone? Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Patricia, March
1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Patricia: You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4813: How do you define "saturnia"?
how does it differ from other travertines? Should filied holes be
limited in size? Arthur, March 1, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Arthur: Saturnia IS travertine. It differs from the regular version
of travertine because is cross-cut, instead of being cut along the
natural grain of the stone. The consequence of that is that the
holes are less numerous but usually larger in size. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4812: I am planning
on installing 12x12 tiles of verde ubatuba on my kitchen countertop.
We are laying it on 3/4 plywood covered with hardybacker. What kind
of adhesive and grout should be used? Do I need any additional waterproofing?
What about a sealer. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you,
Eric, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eric: I would use rapid setting stone
adhesive (available at the Home Depot), and colored caulk to match
as grouting material. Don’t leave a grout gap any wider than
1/16”, or any narrower than 1/32”. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4811: Please let me know what
compound I should use to stick Marble on a Iron Frame. This is to
be used as a dining table. Thomas, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Thomas: Either silicone or two-part epoxy.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4810: I have been told by every
Granite dealer in this town that it is almost impossible to ruin
granite and yet, that's exactly what I've done. I have Saffire Brown
in the kitchen (slab) and all of a sudden one day there appeared
a splotch about the size of the bottom of an iron (considering nobody
in my family has every TOUCHED an iron-I doubt that could be it)
I have no idea what it is. It is rough to touch making me feel it
is on top of the stone, and yet you can not razor blade it off.
I've tried a poltice I purchased at a granite store..did not work.
the area is a bit lighter that the rest of the stone and when the
light shines across it it looks totally etched. Also, I had left
over granite from the job and have tested every household cleaner
I have to see what could have done it? I am clueless at what it
is and more so at how to get it fixed. I called the installer who
came out and said he may be able to polish it out but that was over
a year ago...hard to get those guys back out! Another fabricator
said to use "white gas" you buy for lamps and let it soak..but
this all scares me cause I don't want to make it worse..yet, my
stomach churns everytime I think of how much that countertop cost
me and it's now ruined. Any advise? Sansom, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sansom: I really don’t know about
the “white gas” thing. I never heard of it and don’t
even know what it is exactly. But if it is a highly flammable solvent,
it could just work while doing no harm to the stone. This just IF
it is what I ventured. If it’s something else … Regardless,
you have me at a loss here. If it were just slightly etched, I would
say that, maybe, they had applied an impregnator/sealer at the time
of the installation (which they shouldn’t have, with your
particular stone), and now the impregnator has gotten, somehow damaged
(etched), but you’re reporting that’s rough at the touch
… Wow, only Hydrofluoric acid could damage so badly a stone
like that! You need to get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor to re-hone and re-polish that particular area. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Try rubbing with acetone on a cloth (assuming
that it is not near any flames)! This will not hurt your stone in
any way, but will break down any resins that may have been applied
and when heated, warped or bubbled. ?? Process of elimination. Heiner |
| Q 4809: Can
you suggest a product to remove a olive oil stain from my counter
top... . Joe, March 1, Reply |
| R1: When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
“Professional kits” (that no true professional ever
uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also
tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and
what to do about the latter! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You’ll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my
comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all
too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don’t become another statistic! What’s more, I can even
show you a way to get all of your money back! What more can you
ask?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4807: I
have recently had installed a natural stonefloor (rough limestone,
random cut, 1 1/2 in thick) installed over radiant electric pads.
It has been down about a month. Yesterday, I noticed several hairline
cracks in the grout. The grout is quite wide and of course is quite
thick. What do I do now? Melanie, Ontario, March
1, Reply |
| R1:
You might have had too much heat during the cure of the grout. With
cement products a slow moist cure is the strongest. Try looking
up the grout manufacture web site for more answers. |
| Q 4805: Its
Turkish Travertine filled. I took an extra tile and used it to experiment.
I put the tile on a pee spot (before I cleaned it up) got some pee
on it and let it sit for 12 hours to see if it would etch. It did.
Then I cleaned the tile. I was then starting to use Miracle 511
Porous Plus on my test piece. But I did the smell test and could
still smell pee. I cleaned the sample a bunch more, and still the
pee smell. Leading me to believe I need to clean with product like
Nature's Miracle made especially for pet urine. (a neutralizer with
enzyme action, says the bottle). Then once the smell is gone to
polish out the etch with some kind of light hone action stuff? Such
as??? Then apply the 511. Please help with your learned advise.Thanks
so Much. Patty, March 1, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Patty: You’re
not serious, are you!! Come on, what kind of a disgusting test is
that?! Sorry, I’m not gonna answer this one. You’re
either trying to pull my chains, or a plain nut case! I’m
not in the mood for this kind of garbage today. Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| R2:
To hone your travertine
you will need an oscillating sander and a variety of grits of sand
paper starting with 80 grit and going up to 220. You will have to
start with the coarser grit and work your way up to the 220. How
coarse you start with will depend on how bad or how deep your problem
is. Always test with a sample piece. |
| Q 4803: I've had Giallo
Veneziano for my kitchen countertops for 5 years and absolutely
love them. No staining, no problems with wine, lemons, water, etc.
I am in the process of purchasing a new home and would like a stone
similar in look and hardness, porosity, inability to stain but with
a bit more of a golden color. I went to the same granite/marble
importer and he suggested Madura Gold. It looks very very similar
to Giallo and it is in fact more golden. He said they are very similar
in the way that they will hold up. He gave me a piece to take home.
On different areas of the slab, I applied lemon juice, oil, red
wine & red wine vinegar. Kept it there for a couple of hours
and had no problems with staining. Only thing is when I cleaned
the stone off with water, it did darken a bit, but lightened back
up within 5 minutes. My Giallo does not change color when I wipe
it down with water. Will the Madura Gold be a good choice for my
kitchen in light of this? thank you. DCVK, March 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear DCVK: Let’s just say that your Giallo Veneziano behaves
quite unusually! Typically it is an absorbent stone. Therefore I
have to conclude that either your slab had been “resined”
by the factory, or that it had been sealed quite properly by your
fabricator after installation. About the Madura Gold is less porous,
but usually it does require the application of an impregnator sealer.
The report of your testing is contradictory: how could water be
absorbed while just wiping it with a damp cloth and not get stained
by lemon juice, oil and red wine let sit on it for a couple of hours?
It makes no sense to me. Test it again! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
I have Giallo Venisiano
in my house and prior to sealing it noticed that it did not change
or darken when I cleaned it. I think it is just because of the variation
in color and is less conspicuous. The darkening is only because
it has not been sealed yet and it is allowing moisture to get into
it. It's very much like your hair in this manner, it darkens when
it's wet but dries back out normally and has no bearing on it's
other properties. Simply make sure you keep up the sealer to prevent
staining. Heiner |
