| Q 4960: I just had my cream
colour granite flooring done a few month ago. I was shocked to see many
dark stain , round patches on some 25 pieces of granites. I wanted them
to remove it as its very unsightly. My contractor tried to used chemical
that is meant for removing water retention , as wanting to prove to me that
it is only water retention. Guess what, on the next day, the dark stain
did spread out to the outer but was back to its original dark stain after
a few hours. Just wonder what is the problem and is there any remedy to
it. Hope to get your advice real soon. Jacq,
March 26, Reply |
| R1: Well,
what can I tell you: if it was not “Michelangelo” himself, it
sure was his brother! I can’t intelligently venture a diagnosis of
your problem without actually seeing the situation, but my gut tells me
that’s hopeless. I sure hope I am wrong! Ciao and good luck,Maurizio
|
| Q 4959: I
just got a light colored granite kitchen countertop, fried fish the first
day with it, left oily towell paper overnight on the countertop, and have
a huge grease stain that won't come out. Any moisture discolors the top
within a minute or so but water evaporates without residue. Did I make a
mistake getting granite? Do you have to wipe up anything that gets on it
immediately? Could the supplier not have sealed it like they should have?
Is there a way to get the big grease stain out? For the latter, the supplier
is having me apply 409 cleaner to it every day saying it'll eventually go
away with this treatment in 2 -3 weeks. It's not doing much yet after almost
2 weeks, Dan, March 26, Reply |
| R1: Now,
they sold you the wrong “granite”, they did not seal it as they
should have, and you’re still listening to their recommendations?!
NO you did not make a mistake getting granite, you made a mistake getting
a “Michelangelo” instead of a good contractor! I do believe
I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio |
| Q 4958: About 1.5 years ago,
we remodeled a bathroom with filled and honed travertine. It was sealed
at the time of installation. Recently I noticed a few rings and uneven markings
on the counter tops (looks like water stains). I cleaned the travertine
with stone cleaner, but cannot get the stains out. Can you please tell me
how to remove the stains and what to do to care for the travertine better
in the future. Robyn, March 26, Reply
|
| R1: Most
of the time, a hone-finished stone is a medium hone (satin finish), which
means that’s a finish in between a totally flat finish (low hone)
and polished. Travertine does not to be sealed, because is very dense and
does not absorb much. The “water stains” you have are not stains
at all, and have nothing to do with the absorbency of the stone. They are
marks of corrosion (etches) that something acidic produced by becoming in
contact with the stone’s surface, and no impregnator/sealer on this
planet can do anything to prevent those! You can’t clean them off.
It would be like trying to repair a scratch with a cleaning product! If
I were you, I would go back to the people who made money out of you for
assistance. If for any chance it will turn out that they don’t know
what to do, you can opt to get in touch with me directly by giving me a
holler. Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4956: We
recently installed a light natural-colored granite (called Sunset) for a
countertop in the kitchen. As recommended by the installer, we sealed the
countertop ourselves with a commercially-available sealant (4 applications),
but we now have a stain from strawberry juice. Lesely,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
: In my humble opinion impregnator/sealers are not consumer products. What’s
more, there’s no such an animal as a sealer for stone which is good
for all stones. It takes a professional to know which one sealer is right
for which particular stone, and to professionally apply it. What do you
want me to tell you now? The only recommendation I can make is to keep using
the same sealer until (hopefully) your “granite” is sealed properly
(wait at least 24 hours in between applications and make sure to remove
any residue of the product off the stone surface). By the way, let me guess,
they also told you to use dish soap or glass cleaner for routine maintenance,
didn’t they. Maurizio |
| Q 4955: I
have a 40x20 foot wall of (sandstone?!) to clean, de-mineralize water stains,
and (maybe?) seal. Your stone cleaners look promising, but I'm wondering
if it will really work on this friable substrate? Please let me know. Or,
can you recommend something else? I'm not sure what to tell her regarding
removal of the water spots. Any advise you can give me would be greatly
appreciated, Genny, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
Without knowing what kind of stone you’re dealing
with and the true nature of these “water stains”, there’s
no way that I can honestly tell you whether or not any of my cleaners would
work. “Education before any sale” is our corporate motto. It
is not just a good-sounding slogan: we actually mean it! Give me better
intelligence, and I may be able to help you out. Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4953: I happily stumbled
on to your website recently and just in the nick of time. My wife and I
are quickly reaching the conclusion of our dream house being built here
in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. Part of the selection process included choosing,
amongst other things, countertops for the kitchen. We oftened admired the
granite countertops in friends, family and show homes. Our builder directed
us to his dealer and after much deliberation in the warehouse behind a very
large showroom we chose a granite named "Emerald Pearl." The countertops
were one of the last items installed by the builder/granite dealer this
past Monday. We had our first chance to see them on Tuesday. To say we were
disappointed is an understatement. The surfaces appear polished in some
areas but matted, dull or even frosted in equally as many (interspersed
with each other might be the best description). There is also a seam where
two pieces of the granite meet whose finish might best be compare to bathroom
grout. Since our closing is only a matter of days or weeks away we acted
quickly. The builder's site manager, while admitting to not being an expert,
said that the countertops did not appear any different from any other he
had installed in his years with the builder. He did say that the seam I
described still needed to be polished. Now to my questions: While I understand
that this granite may have imperfections, does this appearance seem reasonable?
If not, what treatment(s) to the granite should I request from the builder/installer?
After the seam between pieces is polished, to what degree should it be obvious
to the naked eye? My wife and I are somewhat surprised since every other
step in the building process went smoothly and our builder has a very good
reputation within the community (we investigated numerous builders' prior
to finalizing our choice). Jim, March
26, Reply |
| R1:
Your builders may have a good reputation within the community, but a very
bad reputation in my book, for what you’re reporting here! It looks
like “Michelangelo” struck again! Nobody can polish a seam.
Seaming is one of the areas of the whole process where you separate the
men from the boys. Emerald Pearl is one of the most consistent “granites”
available, and should not have any of the finish imperfections you’re
describing. What’s more, seams should be almost invisible. Going by
your description, your countertop should be totally rejected and started
over with someone who knows what they are doing. I did write a very comprehensive
article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio |
| Q 4952: Please
advise how to remove pink nail polish on a tumbled marble bathroom floor,
Andrew, March 26, Reply |
| R1: Acetone
(available at any hardware store). No mirela solvent will ever damage marble.Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 4951: In our new house we
have ordered a floor to be finished in white marble, and agreed to Bianco
Carrara ‘C’ flooring. The sample was white with fine grey veining,
but what has arrived is grey with darker grey veins. We’ve received
other professional opinions that this marble is actually Carrara ‘CD’
and not ‘C’. The marble vendor insists that this marble is Carrara
‘C’ and explained that it has been freshly cut in Italy and
is still wet from the process, which makes it darker, and that when it fully
dries in about a week, it will lighten. Is this true? Secondly, we’ve
just discovered that the ‘white’ marble stair coverings will
be even darker than the floor and will be smooth and shiny. Is there a way
to change or refinish it to make it non-slippery? If so, what is the process
or product called? Would this also make the marble lighter? Thanks very
much, Judy, March 26, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Judy: There is very little difference between class C and CD Carrara marble.
Only a seasoned expert can tell them apart. You just got a darker batch,
which has nothing to do with the grading of the stone. The idea of the drying
and lightening after a week or so is farfetched, to say the least. To make
your steps slip-resistant and lighter at the same time, you will have to
have them professional washed with Phosphoric acid (Muriatic acid would
not make it any lighter). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 4950:
we are a manufacturer of Terrazzo Tiles located
in Bali. We are trying to find an impregnate system to offr our tiles for
use in the swimming pool, so it must become waterproof and resistent to
the pool chemicals, Can you help us? Best regards Christian March 26, Reply |
| R1: I
don’t know if I have an impregnator sealer that will do all what you’re
looking for, but if you want to send me a sample of your tiles I’ll
be glad to run a few free tests for you. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You will be charged a small nominal maintenance fee to get in touch with
me, but I won’t charge you anything. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
|
| Q 4947: We
recently remodeled our kitchen and installed honed granite countertops.
Our fabricator used a sealer on the surface, but within two weeks, the counters
looked horribly mottled. From the start, they stained quite easily. Our
fabricator returned, stripped the counters with acetone, then applied polish.
He said that sealer would no longer be absorbed by the stone, so that was
no longer an option. The counters are still staining easily, and I'm concerned
that this will be a problem forever. I've read through some of the posts
on your site, and I'm game to try sealing myself, but how do I begin when
the counters have already been sealed AND polished? Arieh March 26, Reply |
| R1: WOW!!
All the world knows by now that hone-finished black granite countertop are
inherently a maintenance nightmare. Applying an impregnator sealer was the
first BIG mistake. Trying to remove the impregnator sealer with acetone
was the second mistake. Applying a wax over all that garbage was the third
mistake. They did not make a forth mistake because they did not do anything
after that! All in all, for what you’re reporting, it sounds to me
like you’ve been taken for a ride! I do know exactly what your situation
is and how to rectify it and make your countertop enjoyable (well …
almost!). I think that you should demand the parties involved in your case
(and who made money out of you!) to solve the problem they created. If not,
you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4946: Does
anyone have a suggestion on cutting accurate holes 8" to 12"in
granite and 2 or 3 inches deep .Low tech is preferred Robert, March
26, Reply |
| R1: Hello
Robert the most efficient method is by drilling the holes with a diamond
bit. If you need to do it yourself you can rent a coring rig and bit at
a rental yard. I suggest you call in a certified conrete cutter and driller
who could probably help you much quicker and cheaper. |
| R2: I
give you two options: NO WAY and NO HOW!! Get a pro!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 4945: I
have travertine throughout my bathroom ( walls, shower, counter tops) what
is the best way to clean and maintain the stone? Also I have polished cobalt
blue tile counter tops in my kitchen ( I know I'm a glutton for punishment
) I have a hard time cleaning all the cooking greases and oils off the surfaces.
I have found that a glass and mirror cleaner does this best, but I still
have to work on cutting the grease first. Any easier solution to cleaning?
Or should I resign myself to building up my muscles? Thanks -Jamie, March
26, Reply |
| R1:
I am not an Enjo consultant, but swear by their products, I’m not
sure how the travertine in the bathroom would come up, but the polished
tiles in the kitchen will definitely respond to Enjo’s green kitchen
glove, COLD water and a linen tea towel. In this instance I am speaking
from experience after having tried everything caustic and not to remove
sticky grease spots from polished tiles in our kitchen (they were there
when we moved into an established house 4 years old); I figured I had nothing
to lose when I borrowed an Enjo kitchen glove. With less effort and no chemicals
than I have ever tried (quite a bit of water though for wall tiles), the
marks came off and the tiles are kept beautifully shining with a regular
wipe of the wet glove and a dry off with a linen tea towel (this avoids
any residual water marks). For the bathroom, I can only suggest having an
Enjo demonstration in your home to see what effect the white bathroom/glass
glove has on the travertine. I have very finely textured polished tiles
in the bathroom and shower and these always come up beautifully with the
Enjo removing all soap build up and water/calcium residue simply wiping
over and drying off with the linen tea towel. No elbow grease or muscle
building required! Emma Baumann |
|
| Q 4944: I
live in a home with a marble floor foyer, that was installed by the previous
owner. Although it is very beautiful, I prefer a more rustic look to the
formality of the polished marble tile. I was wondering if there was a way
to distress the flooring and bring it back to its more natural stone look,
without weakening the tiles. Is there a product (like some sort of acid)
that we could apply or have professional apply? What would be the process?
Great website! Thanks for your help. Patricia- VA, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
I would not recommend acid washing any marble! Contact a reputable stone
company and ask about giving the floor a honed (matt) finish. |
| R2:
You could have it acid washed
(Hydrochloric acid will not alter the current colr of the stone; Phosphoric
acid will make it lighter), or – better yet (IMO) – you can
have it honed with a good-quality honing powder. Either way, you will need
a pro. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4943: I
found this site while searching for "how to clean black granite countertops".
I looked over all the current questions but none fit my problem although
some seemed close. I have new black galaxy granite countertops and have
purchased all the granite cleaning products found in stores but I am a slave
to this countertop. the slightest water splashed or a cup left on it leaves
water spots and circles. If you just try to wipe and let it dry it smears.
Forget a sponge. I have to use dish soap and a clean dishrag, wash down
whole countertop then dry with another dry, clean rag. Is this typical?
Am I doomed to spend the life of this counter, cleaning it? Barbara, March
26, Reply
|
| R1: No,
it is not typical at all. I have Black Galaxy in my own kitchen for almost
7 years and I never had any problem cleaning it! Maybe it’s the cleaners
you’ve been using (dish soap is not certainly the right one! It will
leave a film), or maybe, the fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer onto
it – which they were not supposed to – and its presence may
create the type of problems you’re experiencing. Find out about that
with your fabricator, and, if they did apply an impregnator, demand them
to remove it, no ifs or buts! If they give you any problem, you can opt
to get in touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4942: I ordered Dakota Mahogany
for my kitchen in a condo currently under development. I was assured that
I would have the opportunity to see the slab prior to fabrication. Yesterday,
while visiting the building site I discovered that the granite had already
been installed. I had no opportunity to view the slab prior to installation,
even though I was assured otherwise when I was deciding on the material
for the countertops. A portion of the granite has a large black beauty mark
which, because of it's size is ugly and distracting from the beauty of the
closely grained pattern of Dakota Mahogany. Had I seen the slab at the granite
yard, I certainly wouldn't have selected it for my kitchen, or anywhere
else in my home. I understand that beauty marks in granite do occur because
granite is natural, not manufactured and, in many cases enhance the appearance
of the slab. This mark is very unattractive and I would be very unhappy
having this countertop in my home. How difficult is it to replace a granite
countertop after it's been installed? I don't want any discount on my purchase,
I want what I asked for--preapporval of my granite slab. Thank you in advance
for your response. Best Regards, Glenda, March
26, Reply
|
| R1:
It is not very difficult. And I agree with you: stand your ground! Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4940: I have enjoyed Lanhelin
in my kitchen for the past 9 years on a daily basis. It looks as new as
the day it was installed. It is so perfect that people don’t think
that it is natural stone. Are you familiar with Lanhelin and if you are,
is there a reason that it was not on your list? Is it true granite? Rose,
March 26, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Rose, thanks for your comment and info. Lanhelin is known "granite"
from France, but not enough known between 150 the world most popular granites.
It is granodiorite from Bretagne Daniel, Expert Panleist |
| Dear Dr.
Daniel, Thank you for your response. You list granodiorite under the granite
group in your report. So are you saying that granodiorite (or Lanhelin)
is a TRUE granite? It is a very small grain. Rose |
| R2:
Dear Rose, Lanhelin is petrographically granodiorite
according some source that I have. It means not true granite, only granite
group (granitoide). Daniel, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4938: I just found your
web-site and was thrilled to see how you take the time to answer in detail
each consumers questions and concerns. I have a granite countertop in my
kitchen. It was installed about 3 years ago and I love it! What product
would you recommend to retain the luster and shine of the granite. Can the
product that you do recommend be used on a daily basis or how often should
I treat the countertop? I don't remember the name of the color but it is
in the earth tone family. Thank you for your attention. Sincerely, Bernice,
March 26, Reply
|
| R1: As
easy as 1-2-3! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations. In there you will find all the information you’re looking
for and then some! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4935: We
have recently installed granite countertops(Giallo Veneziano). It seems
that some brown (rust-like) stains are forming in the stone. The installer
said that its becuase the stone is rich in iron. Can you make a suggestion,
Mo, March 26, Reply |
| R1:
And so what?! Even if it’s rich in iron (which I don’t know)
it is not supposed to oxidize. Where in the countertop are those rusty stains
appearing? Let me know and then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4934: I
have a granite kitchen counter top (St. Cecelia) that has been installed
for about 5 years. I just noticed that it has started to discolor in several
places taking on a orange tint. What should I do?? Diane,
March 26, Reply |
| R1:
It’s impossible to draw any conclusion without actually taking a look
at the stone. What you’re reporting is mighty unusual. I actually
never heard of anything like that. What have you been using for routine
cleaning? Maurizio |
| Q 4933: My granite countertops
were cut too short on one side so now they used a piece from different rock.
It's similar but not exactly, my installer will give my 10% off, do you
think I should get more, Scott, March 26, Reply |
| R1: What
are you, a beggar or something to be content with a 10% discount?! I think
you should get your countertop replaced, period! Something like that is
not acceptable at all. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4931: I already have a granite
vanity top, and I wish to add side splashes. However, due to some odd size
cabinetry, the perfect layout would be if I mounted the side splashes on
the sides butted up next to the vanity top (instead of the usual mounting
on top). Is this a bad idea? I realize the concern that water might drip
down between the side splash and the vanity top. Any suggestions? Thank
You, Rich, March 26, Reply |
| R1: If
you silicon the joint it should work.Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| |
| Q 4929: My husband and I are
in a quandary. We both enjoy our travertine but want to fill it due to the
fact that it will go in our bathroom (master bath). We have heard from many
people that we might consider filling it (as we did the un-honed) with something.
As we do enjoy the “rough” look of the stone, we really would
like to keep it that way. We do not want the “glassy” look of
marble or polished/filled…etc. We want it to still look “rough”,
with filled holes but without using pigmented filler. We have heard and
read that you can fill it with resin but again, the glassy look is something
neither one of us want as a result. Might you be able to suggest another
material as filler? We are totally boggled and our bathroom is at a standstill.
Our travertine will have the 1/16” grout line and they are 18”x18”.
Kerby, March 26, Reply
|
| R1:
Filling the holes of travertine in indoor installation is always a good
ides, and it will not affect the finish that you currently have. I suggest
you to use sandless (wall-type) grout. If you want the holes filled but
still detect little dimples, you will have to sponge the surface of the
stone as soon as the grout is applied. If you want it to be flush with the
stone surface, then you will have to wait for at least one full day to cure,
then you will scraper the excess off with a professional-grade scraper.
No matter, what, I strongly encourage you to get a pro. Maurizio |
| Q 4928: Your site is EXCELLENT!,
Please advise me on the best method to clean my shower. My Floors are tumbled
marble, my walls are travertine. Although we squeegee every time we shower
we still get orange mildew deposits. So far only elbow grease gets it out,
any additional tips you can offer? Thanks! De' March 26, Reply
|
| R1: It
is not mildew, it’s something different that’s a clear indication
of a problem that you MUST solve as soon as possible! I do know exactly
what your situation is and how to rectify it. I think that you should demand
the parties involved in your case (and who made money out of you!) to solve
the problem they created. If not, you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio |
| Q 4927: I
have read everything I could on the web page and a few article seem familiar.
I recently had countertops installed. I bought them under the name of granite
and the color is Peacock Green. Is this a stone one that should be sealed
or not? Peacock Green resembles Uba Tuba, but it is more "chunky".
Soda was left on the stone for about 1 hour and left a haze. I took our
original sample, probably was not sealed, and put soda on it for an hour.
There was no staining. Should I start striping the countertop? March 26,
Reply |
| R1: Yes,
you hit the nail on the head! That stone does not need to be sealed. The
impregnator/sealer that was applied on it is sensitive to acids, hence the
“stain”. Get rid of the sealer, and concern yourself about the
much more important routine maintenance of your beautiful stone. Maurizio |
| Q 4924:
I have a marble counter top in a bathroom
that has spots on it from a cleaner - I think what happened is the cleaner
sprayed a cleaning product (WAl Mart Brand) on the counter top and left
it to dry. When they returned they tried to wipe it but now only the spots
show. is there a way to remove these spots and what will the outcome be?
Thank you so much.., anne, March 26, Reply |
| R1: Yes
and no. There are polishing powders for marble that were formulated to be
user-friendly enough to be handled by the average homeowner, but are designed
to do spot restoration. If your vanity top has been damage all over, you
are better off calling a professional stone refinisher to hone and re-polish
your marble. Maurizio |
| Q 4919: I
am using Saint Cecilia 12X12 tiles on the floor and the walls of a small
bathroom. Tiles have not been sealed or resined, any problems with water
absorption in the bath? Have a new fan that is 110 CFM to remove shower
steam and using tile heat in the floor..Using Golden Green for the Countertop.
Thanks in advance, Dale, March 26, Reply |
R1: If
you by a good granites(first quality)....don´t worry about the water.
The granite is porous , but if the tiles are first quality...when they went
to polish machine all of these pores are closed,because when we polish first
quality tiles we do in a 19 heads polish machines...so the tiles pass for
all steps to close the pores.But if you by a poor quality may be you need
sealed them,because the commercial choice pass in 19 heads too , but the
poor tiles maybe have some litlle chew , and you can´t see so the
water pass between the chews. We sell first quality and commercial choice
tiles...belive in company who can show the difference, because the price
is cheaper them first quality but of course the quality is poor Regards
Andrei Souza |
| R2:
Absorption of granite or marble is quite normal and
don't need to worry about too much, if the sticking material was cement,
problem will get worse since it will reflect some white lye foam on granite
surface, that is most concerning. Meanwhile, keeping good ventilation is
also a good choice. Piness |
| R3:
I would seal the floor and the vanity top with a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer.
I wouldn’t bother with the walls (unless they are inside a shower
stall). Maurizio |
| Q 4908: I
had Desert Cream granite purchased from a store, installed three days ago.
We left a bottle of Dishwashing soap on it for a couple of hours that leaked.
It has made a ring stain. I had thought the the major problems were with
oil, but perhaps this dishwasher soap contain oil in some form. What is
the best way to remove the stain. There is nothing quite like staining a
beautiful countertop the first day you use it. Thanks, Sally, March 26,
Reply |
| R1: I
do know exactly what your situation is and how to rectify it. But what happened
to your fabricator / installer? I think that you should demand the parties
involved in your case (and who made money out of you!) to solve the problem
they created (by selling you such an absorbent “granite” to
begin with, and second by not sealing it properly. If not, you can opt to
get in touch with me, Maurizio |
| Q 4907: I
am considering sending some Palimanan sandstone carvings from Indonesia
to my friend in the UK for her outdoor garden. I am wondering if the Palimanan
sandstone is able to withstand the temperature and humidity levels in the
UK? Please advise. Thanks. Carol, March 26, Reply |
| R1: Palimanan
Stone is strongh enough to UK wheather. But for best result, please coat
the surface after installing the stone, esecially for outdoor. Thank you,
Kicky |
| R2: Dear
Carol, the the Palimanan sandstone is not able to withstand the temperature
and humidity levels in the UK even you using water proofing or any sealent,
better use it for indoor ornament Imam |
| R3:
Need to get the approximate
qty and cut size of the palimanan stone that you were requesting. Javastone |
| R4:
Your concerning is quite reasonable
and I had some experiences that sandstone can't be used in moist and humid
atmosphere which can invade the structure inside of sandstone. For example,
the longevity of sandstone will decrease dramatically after taking use in
such environment,so I am back you. Piness |
| R5:
I have a factory in Indonesia
and we specialize in palimanan carvings. Palimanan will absorb water and
can crack if it freezes later. You can try to seal it with a quality stone
sealer to prevent the water from penetrating the stone, and that may work.
We have some pieces that are in the Northeastern U.S. and they have survived
a couple of winters now, but I won't guarantee them. Better if you can talk
your friend into black stone statue, Mike Bell |
| R6:
HAVE SOME IN MY GARDEN THEY
CANNOT STAND THE HARD RAINS, VERY POROUS AND SOFT THAT WHY THEY CARVE WITH
THE MATERIAL ITS EASY THE COLOR OF THIS SAND STONE IS A YELLOWISH SHADE,
REGARDS ROBBIE, March 26, Reply |
| |
Q 4905: We
have been working on the area of producing, installation and covering the
surfaces with Marble, Granite and Travertine. As it is known all mine and
materials are scratched and discoloured when they are treated and become
dull in appearance.
For this reason we are looking for the solutions to strip away years of
wear and tear and look virtually new. We, in Turkey, use a high motion conventional
machine made in Italy to cover the defect on the surface lining that would
seen in time and in some areas where a dence erosion occurs. We would like
to cooperate with your company about using, marketing your productions.
We would be grateful if you give us detailed information about the policy
of your company, Canberk, March 4, Reply
|
| R1: Are
you talking about my company? If so, contact me by sending me a e-mail at:
info@findstone.com.Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio |
Q 4904:
I'm a remodel contractor in Nth CA. Doing a bathroom with 1.25" Veniziano
Giallo. My sub contractor installed the shower wall slabs first, propped
above the mortar bed with some spacers, then drypacked the remaining inch
high space across the bottom with mortar. Naturally (or maybe not?), the
pan cracked at the wedges...and it leaks...I'm trying to get him to pull
the walls and replace the pan and the liner but naturally, that's tough
going. I've talked to a couple of other subs who all say the pan granite
should be installed first, then the walls. Makes sense to me 'cos the water
will stay above the pan granite and go down the drain instead of (possibly)
going down the
vertical face and under the shower pan mortar. Would appreciate any info
you can give. March 4, Reply
|
R1:
IMO it doesn't make sense to install the floor first.
The very nature of installing slabs would possibly destroy the pan. Instead
it sounds like the preparation of the substrate was inadequate. I mean a
1" grout joint at the bottom??
You need to redo the shower again, the slabs should be sized before installation
to accommodate the size of the shower. Grout joints should be no more than
1/16" and adequate water proofing and substrate preparation done before
anything is installed.
Again, IMO it sounds like there was not enough forethought before installation
which is an expensive shame.
With Giallo Veneziano as the material of choice you need to investigate
impregnating sealers and care instructions as well. Good luck, Steven
|
R2:
Dear Sir, I fully understand
your intention of installation granite for bathroom performance, but whatever
you got information from various sub-contractors, one crucial thing has
been ignored: there should be one water-proof layer under mortar in bathroom
during the performance of the building, I am not so sure that there is water
proof which made of aldehyde resin or something else in your bathroom, but
I insist that should exist and 1-2cm thickness' mortar covering the proof
for protection purpose. After description on it, I start to go to point:
whatever you take beginning at wall or pan, that is all right, because no
worry to begin from wall for anti-water work has been done and even from
beginning at pan, no help to drain water, all things are up to the convenience
of installation, that is true.
One important thing is attached, if you detect no water proof layer within
bathroom in advance, do inform your clients or do it yourself, that is very
helpful to decrease troubles whatever during installation or afterward for
maintenance. Piness Wang |
| Q 4899: I have a flat stone
hearth that has no luster to it at all. The house is 60 years plus old.I
have tried various marble polishes and waxes but nothing works. It always
goes back to it dull look. Thanks Kim, March 4, Reply |
| R1:
Kim, you do not mention what kind of stone your hearth
is made of, but it may be a stone that will not polish: ( limestone, sandstone
???) You could try a color enhanser, or if it is soapstone, mineral oil.
Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4898: I have recently constructed
a retaining wall in southwestern pennsylvania using large (1 ton) indigenous
boulders that i thought were limestone. They are tan / gray in color and
react to hydrochloric acid. after only a few months they seem to be eroding.
Is my wall going to crumble into dust, and is there anything i can do to
stabilize or seal them before this occurs? March 4, Reply |
| R1: Some
limestones are not suitable for construction purposes. Some are just too
soft and absorbant, and wet weather freeze/thaw cycles will erode them rapidly.
Also if the source for the stone was from a blast area ( highway construction??)
any structural intergity it might have had is gone. JVC, Expert Panelist
|
| |
| Q 4896: I have a project to
transform limestone blocks 4*3*3 into small blocks 2*1*1. I would like to
have a machine made here (Dominican Republic) for economic reasons. The
only part I cannot find here is large diamond disk or diamond wire. Can
you provide any advice/consultancy service on that topic, ie how to build
the machine and what solution is best? Thank you in advance, Nicolsa, March
3, Reply |
| R1: Maybe
I can be of some help. First of all, for suitability, the client should
send some samples off for testing. At least compression strength (astm-C170),
and modulus of rupture (astm - C99), or, as an alternate, get some information
from the quarry where the blocks were cut from. I am assuming that it is
a locally produced stone. He seems to know how to go about building the
saw he wants to use. The issues here concern how true and square the finished
blocks need to be. Shop built saws generally do not cut with the precision
of commercially manufactured equipment, but they are common, and do the
job. Most use electric motors, but I am sure a car motor can be rigged to
drive a saw blade without any problem. To cut through a 3 foot block will
require at least an 8 foot circular blade. It is important that the plane
of the blade to be as square as possible to the cart table or saw bed. For
this job, the client would probably be best off if they can build a rotating
turn table on the saw cart. That way they could cut the slabs in one direction,
turn the table and cut the slabs at 90degrees without handling the stone
but once. I think you have plenty of sources for saw blades both for circular
blades (the simplest system) or wires. Some limestones can be cut dry if
dust is not an issue, but wet cutting is better. Which ever, the saw blade
needs to be the right one for the application, and a soft stone blade. |
| Q 4895:I would like to know
how to get cultured rock with a flat bottom to stick to the cement scratch
coat? I know I am to put mortar on the back of the stone as well as on the
wall but they do not stay in place even after holding for several min. What
consistency should the mortar be? My mix ratio was 1 part mortar to 3 parts
sand?? Is this correct? Traecy, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Traecy, You need to use thinset mortar for this type
of application. You can get it at any of the big boxes or a tile store.
Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
Q 4894: I'm an account manager
for a Contracting copmany in Southern California. I'm looking for a possible
answer, someone with a similar situation, or some insite to the damage which
appeared on our marble piece. On one of our projects we recently had a rather
costly piece of Bianco Venatino marble ($110 a "s.f.") installed
over a double vanity. Upon installation, the piece appeared fine. But within
the first couple of days, two areas at approximate 4 feet apart started
showing a strange triad shaped pattern. This grew very dominate in appearance
within about a week or so and then stopped. The unique thing about these
areas is that the three marks, which look like a shatter under the surface,
each about 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter, are exactly 2-3/8" (within
a 1/16") from each other within thier traid. AND this is the case in
both triads (see attachments).
Two of the six marks have now broken away at the surface.The property owner
saw a piece at a showroom shortly after and asked the salesperson what the
mark under the surface was, and he replied to her "impact from improper
handling. That put me to think of another possibility.
When we do concrete structures and have supports
bolted to, or when we install railings, the mount is almost always round
with a triad shaped bolt pattern. On researching marble, I went back to
the source, the quarry, and how marble is removed from the quarries. What
I found was ALL this equipment , saws, drills, splitters, when being used,
is anchored to the stone around the equipment. The stone around being eventially
another block to be extracted from the quarry! So....my point being, is
it possible that the piece we received might be one which was very close
to the outside of the block, and the bolts, or whatever is used to anchor
the mount to the stone, caused fractures just below the tips when driven
into the stone (which would be the back side of our piece). Then, the stress
from (if you would) "flexing" under its own weight in the handling
and fabrication of this piece, as well as once installed, the stress put
on it from the surface its mounted to not be a perfect mirror image of the
marbles reveal, could cause these points to continue to shatter until releaved?
Is this a possibility? have you or anyone who is reading this seen or experience
this? Any advice or insite to this matter would be very much appreciated,
Ray green, March 3, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Sir: I go to try to explain
more physically: ALL The materials have a index of dilatation And this index
is unic, each one has a paricular index. So, what it´s happened is
that, the marble is formed basicaly of limy rocks with layers of sedimentary
rocks, so with the increase and reduction of the temperature and the cleanness
becoming the marble wet , some of these particles in the low marble are
broke and same particles of the above marble are remove thenselves because
the marble of low move differently of the above marble. Some granites of
low quality also occur this, but in the case of
granites it is because of the quartz. I hope that I have clear. Best Regards.
Andrei |
R2:
Dear Ray: I’ve seen the pics. They are stunned crystals all right.
What could have cause them I can’t tell. Your theory is kinda …
fantastic, but you know what? I wouldn’t discard it. Sure enough I
don’t think it could be proved, if finding the responsible party is
what you’re after. By the way, there’s a remedy that, though
not totally 100% could be acceptable. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will
be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will even
tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do you want from me?
:-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| R3: 1)
Processing blocks is done by decent, hardworking people who would not jeopardize
their or the company's reputation for selecting defective slabs as 1st quality.
Ofcourse there is always a possibility that your supplier was knowingly
buying secondary quality products that could be reselected and used in commercial
projects where the cost factor holds the main role.
2) Check with your installer. From
your description, the top looked fine when installed and 2 days later
it started to transform or shatter.
Was the top installed properly and
comfortably upon the vanity?
Is there anything underneath
the top that is really causing the damage? Evan D.
|
| R4: I
am a stone and construction professor and willing to answer your question.
I draw some conclusion after reading and watching your pictures attached:
the one you got is not a real marble, instead of a travertine or limestone
with plaster stone mixing structure. As you know, the marks shown in the
pictures are believed into dots of plaster stone which hasn't reacted with
water within air before installation, and I think it will take a long time
to complete the reaction and make people fussy. And you may take some sections
around the mark and send them to lab concerned to test it. I encountered
something similar before and it was just caused by plaster stone contained
in limestone. Piness |
| R5:
Most of the Carrara marbles,
whites and greys, will show bruise marks from impact from an external force.
This would be more evident on a floor surface subject to commercial pedestrian
traffic. Womens high heels can exert a large force that would in some cases
show these marks. I have been in this business for the last 43 years and
have never heard of the problems that you are describing. Your suggested
reason for the failure is very difficult to agree with because the blocks
are trimmed and shaped for transportation from the quarry to the fabrication
plant which usually trims the outer edges where the bolt holes are found.
However anything is possible as your condition proves. Gordon
|
| R5:
Seen the attachments.I feel its due to the porous nature
of Marble,unlike granite.Because of this,the rate of weathering(needn't
be due to oxidisation)/tearing away of small chip will be more prabable.
J.Sudhakar,M.Sc., Geologist |
| R6:
The "white point "
you see in the surface is the mark of meccanical tools used for move the
block. Is not natural. We hade a experience with white marble from Carrarra
and this is the unic reasons that you can receive this defects. Maybe is
not the first axterior slab of the blocks but I'm shure that is the second
or third. I'm sure that this defects not expand in the future. If the "white
point" is inside the small hole is natural only. Best Regards. Giovanni
|
| R7:
Well i received ur message
, i got ur point well this damage not seems to be because of drills or splitters
used in quarrying but its a natural defect which according to me is called
PITTING well this because of loose bounded grains of the material , which
is its natural formation & it can be easily covered without spoiling
its ORIGINAL TEXTURE YUSUF
|
| R8:
Stone is a natural product, and expands and contracts very much like wood
products. Marble is a soft product, with veining that has been heated and
cooled to make its veins so to speak. A change in environment, temperature
and humidity, can cause a stone to expand and contract extremely, and some
marbles such as the venato have lots of small veins, that when they expand
and contract cause fissures and fractures to open up and they become more
apparent, which sounds like you described. Also, being the stone is on a
bathroom vanity, if this is a "wet" bathroom (tub, shower, etc)
only adds to the damage the expansion and contraction does, It sounds like
a naturally occurring process of aclimating of your stone. Has your stone
been sealed with a moisture sealer? This will help eliminate any additional
problems. A good choice of sealers is Miracle 511 Impregnator for moisture
and stain. You should seal every year. |
R9:
My experience (30 years) in quarring and working marble, helps me thinking
to have understood what happened. The marks, shown in enclosed pics, are
called, in Carrara quarrymen slang, "taroli".
They are natural little holes inside some types of Carrara White marble,
and, of course, can be on the surface of rough slabs. They already existed
before and during the installation, but invisible because filled by a special
type of epoxy that reflects the stone colour and covers and hides the holes.
This epoxy is a chemical product and in particular circumstances can have
a chemical reaction.
In my opinion the epoxy, before is become transparent (the marks under the
surface), and after went away (the marks that appear broken trought to the
surface).
I think that the triad shape and the same distance from each other is a
fortuitous event. I hope my explanation has been clear. Dr. Maurizio Breschi |
R10:
Our company is in Turkey.
Probably we could help you. But the sample of a stone-Biango Venatino marble
first of all is necessary for us. And how many square meters are laid out
by a stone in a show room? If do you want advice- send us sample with the
damaged(injured) stone - 30¬ã¬Þ ¬·30 sm
|
| |
| Q 4892: I have a few questions
about installing 81 x81 Crema Marfil tiles, 5/8 inch thick. Most of the
tiles I received have the mesh glued to the back, but a few do not. Should
I not use these un-meshed ones, or not worry about it. On a couple of these,
I can feel the veining on the back with my finger, will these break later,
as opposed to the ones with no cracks? I don't want them to break while
I cut them either. Also, the backs of some of these tiles were marked at
the quarry with painted on numbers, like stock numbers. While washing the
backs of them to remove dust, I could not remove the paint. Big deal or
no? Thanks in advance for your help... Dominic, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dominic: Here are my answers to your questions:
No (don’t worry). No, they should not if well installed and well handled.
No, no big deal. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
The mesh is reinforcing, commonly
used for al lveiny types like Crema Marfil, Emperador Dark, Rojo Alicante
someimes Botticino. If you are hoping to cut these tiles and not experience
any wastage you are mistaken all of the above require more stone than actually
will be laid becuase they do tend to fall apart much easier than let's say
a carrara type stone. EM |
| Q 4891: I
have 16 year old marble in my entry, and both bathrooms. It has never been
polished and looks terrible. I paint, do landscaping, plumbing and just
about everything but electrical..can I polish this marble myselft? If so,
how? Do I need a sealer? Help : ) Also, there are some chips, corners that
have been broken and fell out. Is there some sort of filler that I can use
that would match the color marble I have? Thanks for your advice! Kristine,
March 3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Kristine: A certain saying goes: “It often happens that people who
say that it can’t be done are shut up by somebody who just did it!”
It is not going to happen this time, and you can take that to the bank!It
won’t be easy to find a good stone restoration professional, either:
you’d better watch out! Maurizio, Expert Panelist, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4890: I'm a student at
Grand Valley State University studying Geology. In one of my classes I'm
required to analyze a sample of granite to determine its chemical makeup,
mineral composition, and textural features. I have been told that the common
name for the sample is Coffee Brown or possibly Imperial Brown. I believe
it most resembles Coffee Brown. Could you please tell me as much information
as you can about this granite? I would specifically like to know where it
was quarried, and its age, so that I can determine the details of its crystallization.
If you know of anyone else who could give me more specific answers, could
you please recommend them to me. Thank so much for your time! Jeremy, March
3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Jeremy: Have you consulted the table of the 150 most popular granites by
Dr. Daniel? You can also ask findstone.com management to put you in touch
directly with him. He’s a very nice guy, whom I’m proud to consider
my friend. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4889: I
have marble flooring in my entry way. There is a 3 inch border of dark green
marble. I have noticed that the marble is starting to chip in some places
and has some white residue. Is this due to moisture? Is the dark green more
porrus? The green buts up to a wall and the other side of the wall is a
planter. Is this only going to get worse what is your suggestion. Should
I put a sealer on it to prevent more chipping? Help... March 3, Reply |
| R1: What’s
a planter? You have moisture migrating through the core of the stone tiles,
which produces the efflorescence that bleed onto the surface in the form
of a whitish powder. It digs hole in the stone, too. It’s not going
to get better, and no sealer will do anything to help. Since I don’t
know what a planter is, I can’t help you finding out the reason of
the presence of the moisture. Maurizio |
| R2:
I read your question and maurizio's
response. I specialize in water and fire damage restoration. I don't know
alot about natural stones but deal with your kind of problem daily. Your
assumption to moisture is correct, but the solution is not so easy. The
moisture is most likely from the planter. The white residue is as Maurizio
stated, efflourescence, from high moisture emissions. Planter's have become
real problems due improper installations. If your wall construction is all
block, you can have the soils dug out below (at least 8" to 12"
below your interior floor elevation. Allow this wall area at least two to
four weeks to dry out. Then have the exterior wall area sealed with multiple
coats of a water proofing sealant, say an elastomeric membrane paint, or
some sort of non-hardening, pliable, thick, water resistant coating. Clean
the exposed wall area thouroughly with a wire brush (no water). Coat this
wall area from lowest point up to desired ground elevation of planter. When
you fill the planter back in, be sure to compact the soil up to the exterior
ground elevation or 6" below interior slab elevation (WHICH EVER IS
LOWEST). Before going any further, be sure you have drainage through the
planter walls, allowing trapped water in the planter to migrate out and
away from your house. Fill the next 4 to 6 inches of your planter with gravel,
this assures drainage and helps prevents drain openings in planter walls
from clogging. Continue filling the planter with soils up to about an inch
or two from desired level (1 to 2 inches below water proof coating). After
placing plants back in planter, use bark, or other loose, light weight ground
cover to fill in around plants and bring planter level up to top level of
water proof coating. If your wall between the marble entry and exterior
planter is a wood frame with drywall or plaster interior, and a stucco,
wood, or brick veneer exterior. Consult a Restoration Specialist, a general
contractor specializing in water damage restoration (certified restorer).
Depending on how long this has been seeping through the wall, you may have
structural damage (wet rot and deterioration to wall frame) and mold growth
on wall cavity interior (requiring a mold remediation contractor and an
environmental report for proper protocol if interior is exposed, and interior
clearance for health issues). In this case, after repairs, do not reinstall
planter unless it is stepped out from the house, enclosed in it's own four
wall, not three and the forth being the house. keep it at least 6"
or more away from the house. On a last note...on the subject of moisture
and stone. If your area (neighborhood), has a high water table, or the area
you live in has high percepitation, our your property is built on hillside
neighborhoods with properties above you with possible ground water runoffs,
etc. Your should request a calcium chloride test (60 to 72 hour controlled
moisture test) to determine moisture emission from your concrete slab. Moisture
emissions should not exceed 5 lbs. moisture emissions per 1000 s.f. At 8
lbs moisture emission, efflourescence starts, and on sealed surface materials,
clouding and "picture framing" will occur under the surfaces.
Bonding of stone, tiles, etc. is a problem being the surface is already,
more or less, saturated and bonding material cant draw down into the porousness
of the slab. These surfaces must be sealed with resins that, after drying,
do not allow emissions through. There are not many products on the market
that are applicable, and the companies seal slabs are extremely expensive.
P.s. Don't contact your isurance company on this one. Seepage from your
planter is considered ground water. An exclusion on your homeowners policy,
Unless you have a "flood policy" attached to your homeowners policy
(if your not sure, you most likely don't as you would have had to requested
it). Reporting a claim like this can cause your rates to go up, or worse,
get your policy cancelled due to "lack of maintenance". Good luck.
Ray |
| Q 4888: I
think I have damaged my customers Black Marble bathroom floor. Fortunately
& un-fortunately the customer is my Mother-In-Law. It started with a
trip to Home Depot, picked up that Miracle product to remove the so often
talked about water stains. Well I put all 245 lbs of my effort in to rubbing
the marble with a nylon scrubbing pad and two level polishing cream. Now
that I cannot get a shine back and the marble looks like crap (very dull
& patchy), what stage do you think that I would best start for grit?
I could not have done too much damage, could I? I have to do this myself
and learn from my errors, I never give up. I have a 4 inch angle grinder
but would really apreciate some additional details from what I have read
in the postings. I think that the biggest problem is to find a location
to get the materials reguired. I will experiment with a stone bwhind the
door as not to make it worse, Ron, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: Are you sure that you want to get into this? It’s over the
head of any DIYer, I can promise you that, especially with black marble!If
you really insist, I do believe I have the solution to your problem, but,
believe you me, is going to be tough and I can’t promise you any good
result. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4887: I recently had my
kitchen renovated using GT Blue Pearl granite for the benchtops. It was
not supported well and some cracking occurred around the sink cutout. The
supplier has been ask to replace this. My issue is will the granite he uses
to replace the damaged peice with be a colour match of the original granite
that he used. The granite he intends to use came from another shipment.
The original benchtops, one an island benchtop all came from the one slab
of granite so that it was all matching. Was are his chances of a good colour
match? Rgds Ian, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ian: You’re a Brit chap, ain’t ya! Do you really believe
that anybody can actually answer your question?! :-) Anyway, given the particular
type of stone, there are good chances!, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4886: I have read carefully
all the questions and responses on this site pertaining to limestone, and
I am confused. (I have just purchased 1700 sq. ft. of what I find to be
the most beautiful stone I've come upon in my search for flooring for a
house remodel -- it's purported to be European moleanos blue-beige limestone,
81" x 81" x5/8", lightly polished (honed?) but not shiny
like marble. A couple of the experts, in response to questions by others,
said absolutely, positively, under no circumstances would they have limestone
in their homes -- but they didn't explain why? Yet, other experts and other
websites that I've turned up in my search say that limestone has been used
successfully for centuries, both as external cladding, internal cladding
and flooring. Given that I have already purchased these tiles, could anyone
out there please tell me more about what I have bought, what problems I
might expect (and what the benefits, if any, might be of this stone), and
of what precautions you would advise I take to ward off the potential problems
I might encounter. By way of clarification, in case the name of the stone
is not easily recognizable, the stone appears to me to be very heavy, very
fine grained, densely packed (no holes to be filled like travertine), a
fleshy beige color with wide (8") veins of a very light bluish/ash
graye running through it, with evidence of very tiny shells and other fossils.
As a lover of both antiques and fossils, I just love the look of this stone
-- I'm just praying I won't live to regret having it in my home! Any info/advice
you can offer will be much appreciated, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Most limestone installations are successful. But I am a stone maintenance
guy and success stories don’t interest me. The failure stories do!
And I’ve seen enough of them in my professional life (and heard of,
too!) to make me conclude that I wouldn’t want limestone in my own
house. What can cause the problems that I witnessed (all of which with no
solution)? I don’t know, is the honest answer. Fact is that nobody
knows! Only wild guesses. So, the way I see it, whoever buys limestone –
though the odds are largely in his or her favor – does that at his
or her own peril! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| R1:
You are absolutely right limestone has been used for centuries. The White
House is built from a limestone from Croatia that has also built many of
the local Croatian cities and an abundance of grand building throughout
Europe. Limestone like any other stone various - the key is which one to
use. Preferably dense limesotne is better than the very porous type. Your
choice is good. Crema Marfil Botticino etc are in fact limestones as well
but people are not afraid of using them. These are used widely for commercial
projects, hotel lobbies etc. The stone you have chosen is from Portugal
and is very popular. Seal your stone well and you shouold have many years
of happy living. Your floor will outlive you and the next few generations.
EM |
| Q 4885: I
would like to purchase information on installing 12" Black Galaxy granite
tiles on kitchen countertops. We would also like to purchase information
on sealing, maintenance and care of the granite tiles. Could you send us
a list of your information that you have for sell? We are planning to use
unsanded grout with 1/16" joints. Your web site has been very informative
but we need more in depth information, Cindi, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cindi: I do believe I can help you out. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will
be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will even
tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do you want from me?
:-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4884: I had Kashmir Gold
installed in the kitchen last week, and my faucets hooked up a few days
later. Now there are rings around each of the faucets and the sprayer. My
granite co. tells me its because my plumber used Plumber's Putty when putting
in the faucets. How can I remove this stain? I tried using a poultice with
baking soda with no luck- looks even worse. We are taking the faucets out
and were told to use silicone on them instead of plumbers putty. Any suggestions
would be very helpful! Judy, March 3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Judy: Plumber’s Putty’s a killer all right! That stain will
be extremely difficult to remove, especially considering the degree of absorbency
of your stone. Try to poultice it with Methylene Chloride. If you’re
lucky, after a half a dozen attempts, you just might be able to minimize
the appearance of the stain. After that, yes, 100% silicone is the way to
go. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4883: I recently installed
a granite counter top in my kitchen (Atlantic Green - dark) and need to
remove a stain, the surface was never sealed. I expect the stain was the
result of a pot lid that was placed on the counter, it was used to cook
chili so I’m assuming the moisture that left the stain had some acid
in it. The stain is light in color compared to the rest of the top. How
do you suggest I clean this and what type of sealer do you recommend after
the stain is removed. Thank You Jim , March
3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Jim: I’m afraid you’ve got a problem. A stain is always darker
than the color of the stone. If it’s a lighter color is a “stain”:
an acid etch, that is, that no impregnator/sealer for stone (that I believe
your granite doesn’t need, anyway) could have prevented. What you’re
reporting is quite unusual, but, since it happened, your only option is
to get hold of a bona fide stone restoration professional who can deal with
“granite”. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4882: Does Granite and marble
coexist in the earth as a result of pressure or composition? Afriend told
me a marble dealer explained that marble becomes granite or visa versa because
of time and pressure. My father in law(passed on about 7 years ago) established
the World Stone Heritage Foundation and I remembered him telling me many
stories about marble but not any thing about granite being in some sort
of chain to it. I thought I was told it was different basic ingredients.
What do you say. Ruth, March 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ruth: At the end of a long day, I always hope
in some posting like yours to get amused. It’s not you, mind you:
it’s what they told you! It sounds like alchemy to me: some magic
formula to make lead turn into gold!! So, now marble – a calcite,
metamorphic stone – can become granite, which is a silicate igneous
rock!! Tell your informers to keep their mouth shut if they don’t
want to make a mockery out of themselves!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Ruth, As I recall Marble
is limestone that has gone through a metamorphic change, this could be pressure
or possibly heat or both. Granite is I believe an igneous rock limestone
is I believe sedemintary so I would not think one could become the other.
Regards Richard |
| |
| Q 4880: My
kitchen countertop was installed over a year ago. I don''t know the name
but it has mainly browns, tans and some light pinks. It is a natural pattern
not the very tight ones you commonly see. It makes it look more natural.
Lately it seems to look a little filmy. I clean the heck out of it with
soapy water. I've used a razor to scrape film. There seems to be some clear
(could it be quartz mixed in) that makes it look a little cloudy. What can
I use to cut the filmy appearance. Will resealing help? Can it be repolished?
2. Had a top installed in the bathroom that has a small hole in it. Can
it be filled with something? b. Downstairs had marble top installed on small
vanity. I can see some scratches in it. Should I complain? Some are circular
and others look like lines. I only see it when the light hits it right.
Is it normal. Paul, March 3, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Paul: 1. Soapy water, huh … No wonder it’s filmy!! Resealing
wouldn’t to a darn thing, since sealers for stone are meant to go
IN the stone, not ON it.2. If the hole is small, to be filled it has to
be made bigger (with a drill bit or something.3. It is not normal, but you
can live with it. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4879: I
have a piece of marble that is a thin layer over wood. I took it to be fixed
(scratches) and they said that they are unable to fix it unless I want indents
on the surface. Since it is on\ver wood, it cannot withstand the marble
machine. Is there a filler product that can cover the scratches? Pam, March
3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Pam: How thin can it be?! … Anyway, no,
there’s nothing available to fill the scratches. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4878: What
are good products (DIY or storebought) for cleaning and maintaining (1)
marble bathroom countertop (2) marble bathrooom floor? Jill, March 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jill: You can get my maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere
else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your
money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4877: I have an old clock
that appears to be made from black onyx. It has some sort of stain across
it - something that looks like a water mark or perhaps from some other liquid.
What would you recommend to clean this w/o damaging the stone? Kavoshi,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will
be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will even
tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do you want from me?
:-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4876: I
just had travertine installed in a bathroom on the floor and it looks great.
Trouble is the company that refinished the tub spilled acid on it and now
it has dull water like spots all over it. It had been sealed prior to this.
Is there a product out there that will fix this problem? Parker, Thanks.
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:Dear
Parker: Which goes to prove once more – like if there were any need
for it – that sealing travertine (or any polished marble, for that
matter) is a totally useless exercise!!If the “water spots”
are dull but still with a tiny bit reflection and smooth, then I could help
you. If instead are VERY dull and a little rough, then you need the services
of a professional stone refinisher. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4875: We are trying to decide
what material to use for countertops in a small kitchen. We were leaning
toward granite, but I was concerned about the care required to prevent staining.
After reading several discussion on Findstone and other sites, I conclude
that prevention of staining requires a lot more effort for granite than
for laminates. (We have had Formica countertops for 35 years, and they are
showing their age, but stains were never a problem.) If you believe we have
come to an erroneous conclusion, perhaps you can provide some facts that
will change our minds. lee, March 2,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lee: Most mercantile granite are very enjoyable and just as worry-free
as laminated countertops. It’s all in the know-how to choose the right
stone! I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!I did write a very
interesting article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Nothing beats the look of stone - Granite etc. All stones at some point
will stain as they are porous. A good sealer will prevent any major disasters.
I have had my granite top in for many years - not sealed and looks fantastic
- oh yes, I look mainly Italian with lots of sauces and tomato - never a
problem. Stay away from black - choose a stone that has body in there or
cystals. EM |
| Q 4874: After installing and
enjoying Absolute Black countertops in my previous house, I just had them
installed in my new house. The other night, I set down a wet bottle of Palmolive
dish detergent, and when I picked it up about an hour later, there was a
white-ish stain the shape of the bottle's bottom. I am hoping you can provide
a remedy to remove the stain. I do not know whether the stone was sealed
and I have not called the well-known company that did the installation,
as they did a terrible job of cutting the stone accurately and also damaged
my walls, backsplash, and cabinets. Donna, March
2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Donna: Since you can’t (or don’t want – same difference!)
call back your fabricator, I do believe I have the solution to your problem.
Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4873: I
have limestone on my floor in the bathroom. I went to clean my grout line
with ZAP (have you heard of the product) it left a residue line along the
grout line. How do I get it off? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Grej,
March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Grej: ZAP, an strong acidic product, corroded the limestone where you
hit it. You need the services of s bona fide stone restoration professional.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Once you hae managed to clean it off seal
your floor - the selaer will then also protect the grout. EM |
| Q 4870: We
have a huge, old house with a sandstone foundation. (It's probably at least
100 years old. I have no idea what kind of sandstone it is... It's probably
local to the PA USA area. Efflorescence is really bad! I'm trying to find
a way to seal the sandstone once it is scraped/brushed clean. I found a
product tonight on the internet manufactured by The Glason Group in Australia.
It is called A.F. Seal. Do you know anything about it? The info says it
will penetrate up to 25mm in sandstone. Do you have any suggestions? Thank
you. Sincerely, Charlene, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Charlene, I am a stone mason from Pennsylvania. If the effloresscene you
are describing is in way of a stain it is probally a reaction of the mortar
and the stone caused by the moisture in the earth. Has this house been repointed
or does it have the originall sand and lime mortar. Lime in old mortar will
tend to leach out of mortar dissolve into water then precipitate onto the
stone. This process also weaken the mortar. However it is not good to repoint
with too much cement in the mortar as the sssandstone tends to absorb water
and expand faster then high cement mortars which causes pressure on the
face the stone and sometimes causes it to flake of. Sealing the stone is
a good idea especially below ground. I am not familiar with the product
you mentioned but a good Thompsons water seal product will do make sure
it is clear try a small patch to make sure it is clear, the stone should
be dry when it is applied and it will probally soak up multiple coats. Below
grade plastering on a parge coat might be a better alternative. Good Luck
Richard |
Q 4869: I
installed black honed granite in my kitchen countertop and am not happy
with the way it had been honed. I can see the swirling marks and it seemed
it was honed in an inconsistent manner, meaning the swirls go every which
way. It looks like someone with greasy fingerprints ran their fingers in
all different directions and left the marks on it. The fabricators did a
good job in installation, and he said if I was not happy with the granite,
he will replace it with another slab. First of all, I do not want it ripped
out as much as possible, just thinking of the damage it may do to my new
kitchen cabinets. I will pay for anykind of literature you have that will
help me. Do you recommend I have the
fabricators do diamond grinding and honing and decide whether it looks any
better and if not, let them rip them out. And if I do have them rip the
granite out, should I not have them seal it? I did buy your color enhancer
but found out I cannot apply this on my granite since they had already sealed
it. Please let me know as soon as possible in obtaining any kind of literature,
that willl help me make a decision. Carolyn, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carolyn: You don’t need to buy any kind
of literature. You don’t need to have your countertop ripped out,
either. You fabricator needs to buy a good-quality honing powder. With they
right tool they will remove all the swirl marks in not time and give you
a finish as uniform as they come! There’s an extra bonus tio that:
the honing powder will take care to remove the stupid sealer, too! Have
you fabricator get in touch with me And I’ll be glad to help them.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4868: My kitchen counter
tops are Bianco Roma and were supposedly sealed before installation 2 years
ago. My coffee maker left a rust stain that I didn't see until recently
when I replaced the coffee maker. I've tried poultices of strong Hydrogen
Peroxide to no effect, and a special rust remover product from Stonecare
International that slightly dimmed the stain but also left a small pit in
the counter. Is there anything I can do? Should I just clean everything
and apply more sealer to help prevent future stains, or will this surely
set the stain forever? Sandra, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever
uses!) at a stone retailer near you (and that can pierce holes in your granite!
By the way, why don’t you call them up and ask them what you can do
with your hole?! I’m sure they will try to sell you something to fill
it!!), or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that
you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4867: I
want to tile my shower with travertine tiles just like the bathroom floor
81" X 81" tiles. How do I cut the tiles and drill holes for the
shower head and handle? The tiles look to have a few pits in them do they
need filled? Tim, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear tim: To cut them you need a marble tile cutter. To drill the holes
you need diamond coated cup bits of the appropriate diameter. I would fill
the holes. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4866: I
Have a flagstone patio that was installed last Fall on a gravel and sand
base with dry mortared joints. This winter the top of the motared joints
have begun to "shale" off in small flat pieces. What can be done
to fix this ? Jlu, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Bricks laid on a sand base
should have brushed sand grout, onl bricks cemented down should have mortar
joints. Your best bet in a bad situation like this is to make sure the undrelying
sand has a form around it so that it can not esape. The mortar joints will
only last as long as the underlying layer of sand and gravel remains stable.Regards
Richard |
| Q 4865: Can
someone give me some direction for installing Thassos marble tile around
a soaking tub ? Then place where I purchased the tile told me to seal the
tile prior to installation while others have said it is okay to seal the
tile afterwards. Help is appreciated. Thank you ! Jewel, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jewel: Some jewel of an information, you’ve got! It is not OK
to seal the tiles afterwards: it’s MANDATORY!! First, I wouldn’t
bother to seal White Thassos (or any other polished marble, for that matter!)
if it were my own bathroom, but if, for some mysterious reason that evade
my comprehension you insist on the sealing thing, you should not seal any
earlier than a couple of weeks AFTER installation and grouting, in order
not to trap the moisture of the setting material in. I feel very strongly
that you need some solid maintenance information, rather than this sealing
cacamania! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4863: We
had the granite santa cecila, I believe was the name installed in the kitchen..
It has gold tones in it. We had two stains within the first month of purchase.Oil
and a iced tea stain. They removed the stains with a poultice and resealed
the countertops. The stain did come out. Should I put another coat of sealer
on top of that. If not how often should I reseal it. It looks like it might
never have been sealed properly to begin with. Before water rings would
stay soon after leaving a wet dish on it(which would dry soon fter). Now
you put water on it and the water moves around and doesn't immediately absorb.
I would like to maintain the stone but don't want to overseal. How many
coats are normally put on this color of granite. SCVOL, March
2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear SCVOL: How many applications of the sealer? It all depends on the stone
AND the type of sealer. The stone I know, the sealer I don’t. Typically,
if the impregnator/sealer used by your fabricator is one formulated for
very porous stones, then two coats should do with your “granite”.
If it’s thinner, you may need more than that. I mean, why doesn’t
your fabricator know that?! I’m vondering what they told you about
routine maintenance … water and soap dish, or glass cleaner perhaps?
… I wouldn’t be surprised! You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere
else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your
money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4861: We have been alerted
to some problems associate with black Veined marble from chine and possibly
throughout world. we have found that their is a certain decomposition when
polishing. Can this be corrected by coating marble for floor tiles on a
regular basis or is it prudent to stay away from black marble for floor
tiles? Best Regards, M. Fay, March 2, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Fay: Yes, you’ve heard it right: black marble tiles are no good for
floors. The Chinese one in particular. It is an excellent stone, but almost
impossible to service. Stay away from it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4860: I stupidly did some
repair work on an old candlestick on a granite countertop, getting a few
spots of superglue on the granite. What is the best way of removing it without
damage to the granite, which of course, I will polish after the superglue
is removed? Jack, March 2, Reply
|
R1: Dear
Jack: Use a brand new razor blade. Follow with a piece of cotton ball and
some acetone. Do NOT try to polish your stone. You wouldn’t know where
to begin! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4859: I
am interested in obtaining knowledge and equipment to engrave (i.e. sandblasting)
words and messages on rocks. Can you give some direction? Welker, March
2, Reply |
| R1:
Welker, This is usually done with the aid of a heavy rubber coated tape
the areas one does not want abraided are covered with the tape letters or
dates can be cut out the tape is then taped onto the rock. The sandblasting
medium removes everything else. You must protect yourself and others.from
breathing or other exsposure to the dust and the blasting medium. Regards
Richard |
| |
| Q 4857: We
purchased a new home with uba tuba kitchen counters. love them.. What can
I use as a daily maintenance care routine. I am afraid i will wreck them.
the builder said to not use anything acidic....so what can I use. thanks,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere
else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your
money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4856: What
type of sealer do you recommend for granite? And how often should it be
applied? We have granite in the bathroom (shower and counter) and in the
kitchen (counter) Also, what do you recommend for cleaning granite? What
do you recommend for cleaning grout lines in the shower? Will certain products
hurt the granite? Tom, March 2, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Tom: You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere
else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your
money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R1: DEAR
TOM, WE RECOMEND STONE GUARD MADE BY SCI. IF DONE PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME
YOU ONLY NEED TO RESEAL EVERY 2 TO 3 YEARS. MARBLEMIST IS A GOOD EVERYDAY
CLEANER AND FOR THE BATHROOMS I USE COUNTERIFIC(WHICH IS A DISINFECTANT)
ANY PRODUCTS THAT ARE ACIDIC WILL REMOVE THE SEALER AND CAN LEAVE YOUR STONE
DULL. GOOD LUCK. H.G. |
| Q 4855: Would
you reccommend good reliable companies that refurbish marble in the west
palm each, florida area. thanks, Joe, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: No, I don’t know anybody in your neck of the woods. And
… you’d better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle
of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could
you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your
local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly!
I did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide stone
restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence you need
to make a competent choice. It does carry a small price tag, but for the
sake of your stone, you don’t want to take chances without it! Gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! What’s
more, I will even show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panleist |
| |
| Q 4850: Just purchased 1600
sf honed and filled travertine for condo we own. The purchase was for the
top of the line premium travertine. It arrived with green and brown mildew
stains over approximately half the stone. I wanted to return it but the
vendor and installer assured me that all the mildew would come out after
installation with an application of a chlorine solution. It was of course,
easier to proceed with the installation than return the stone and I trusted
their experienced opinions and have installed the stone with a mud installation
and 1/2 " cork for sound insulation. Now I am quite concerned that
I made a mistake and that even if the discoloration is removed from the
surface with the chlorine, the mildew will remain on the under side of the
stone which was not cleaned. Please advise. Thank you. Gary, March 2, Reply
|
| R1:
R1: Dear Gary: So what? Even if some of the mildew
will remain on the underside of the tiles, what seems to be the problem?
You won’t be seeing it, and it will die out by starvation anyway.
The fact is: I’m not so optimistic about the removal of it with bleach.
I would really appreciate it if you’d keep me posted on this one.
Honest. Maurizio, Export Panelist |
| R2:
The mildew will soon die off and can't be seen. The
cholorine will remove it - test the solution that you wil lbe using on peices
that you have not used. It may take a few applications but this method is
used widely. The mildew sometimes occures from humid containers, pest controll
spraying. It rally is no big deal. italy ws built on this type of stone
and is still standing. Good Luck. Em |
Q 4849: I have purchased Imperial
White granite tiles. The intended use is in a bathroom that would be used
daily. I have already tiled the floor with the stone and intend on using
it as a backsplash for a neo angle shower. Also I would do the vanity in
a slab of the same stone. When water gets on the unsealed tile it darkens
and then returns to its normal colour when it dries. After reading some
of the questions, I am now nervous as the stone is very porous. I was told
that it could be sealed and there should be no problem. Is ths like Kashmir
White and not really a granite but really a sandstone?
Now that the floor is tiled, what are my options? The counter fabricator
gave me some of his sealer that he uses for all of his counters. Is this
a good choice? I was planning on sealing it twice. Thanks for your help.
David, March 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: Yes, Imperial White is some sort of metamorphic
sandstone. It became hard enough and crystallized enough to take a polish,
but it preserved its original absorbency rate. It can be sealed, but it
takes particular sealers for very porous stones. I really don’t know
what your fabricator has. Where are you from, Canada, UK? … I’m
guessing since you spelled “colour” that way. If you need additional
assistance gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with
me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I’ll
be glad to help. What’s more I will even tell you how to get all of
your money back! What more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
So what if it goes dark when wet - as long as it dries
up. But if you feel you can't live with this apply a good sealer. EM |
| R3:
YOU SHOULD DEFINATLEY SEAL
THE STONE BUT YOU NEED TO SATURATE THE STONE UNTIL IT WONT ABSORB ANY MORE
SEALER. WE USE STONEGUARD BY SCI AND HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS. MAKE SURE
YOUR STONE IS TOTALY CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE APPLYING ANY SEALER. H.G |
| Q 4848:
I like the look of soapstone very much and
would like to use it as kitchen countertop, island (with a cooktop) and
in the shower. What are the pros and cons of using soapstone? I’ve
heard that it stains easily; is that true? I’ve also been told that
it is very slippery when wet, however, it is advertised as being ideal for
showers because it is not slippery when wet. Thanks very much Patti,
March 2, Reply
|
| R1: I
do believe I can answer your questions. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4846:
I am a furniture designer based in jaipur , India, and wanted to develop
some sandstone tables and tabletops. The problem that I have is that this
sandstone on its own is a porous material and stains very easily. I am looking
for some sort of impregnation/ coating that will prevent it from coffee,
red wine, vinegar, oil , hotwax and hot metal pan ( stains arising from
placing a hot metal pan on the surface stains. The stone in question is
the red sandstone which has be |
