| ADVICE WANTED! | January 31 , 2003 | |
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Do you know how exactly I would do this (ie: what method I would use)? Do you have any recommendations for type of tea to use? Do different teas create different shades? Is there any way to predict what color I will get? Would you recommend that I put the tea on certain tiles and not others -- to get the inconsistency I want? Or just put different amounts on different tiles?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you know of anyone who I could hire to help or do this for me, please pass on their information. Thanks. Edie, Jan 31, Reply
| Q 4623: I am quite dismayed - I purchased a St. Cecilia countertop 4 months ago, and already the little red spots are chipping away. Is there anything I can do to save my counter - I feel like there will be nothing left in a year! Eve, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eve: Have you been using glass cleaner or some other generic stuff like that for routine cleaning? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4621: I purchased a home on the Seattle waterfront with a living room fireplace which is the focal point in the room (~ 13 ft. wide x 8.5 ft tall). The stone used looks like a bed rock material with fossils in it and is cream colored. Can you pls tell me the history of this stone and how to clean it (general purpose cleaning and also how to get soot stains off it). I like the fireplace but actually would like to remove it and update the space but if it's a rare type of stone then I could probably live with it for some time to come. Thanks. Elliot, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Elliot: I have no idea what stone you're talking about, About cleaning soot off it, use a solution of water and regular household bleach (4:1, or more concentrated according to soiling conditions), a medium to stiff bristle brush, and some patience along with plenty of elbow-grease! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4620: We just had granite countertops installed in our new house. The granite is called Vyara or Rosewood, but I think it looks a little like the Juparanas. The fabricator pointed out some pits and fissures to my husband when he was picking out the slab. They were going to cut around them as best they could, and said they would fill the rest with epoxy. Well the counters were installed, and they have some dark. cloudyish, blotchy areas that are slightly greenish. My husband thinks they are just a natural part of the stone, but I find them to be very noticable. My husband doesn't remember if they were there when he looked at the slabs. I am wondering if the epoxy filler they used could cause this. Also, they used a torch to melt some ice off the slab. Could that cause this kind of damage. These blotchy areas are in two separate pieces that were fabricated from two different slabs, but they are isolated in a small area of each piece. Some areas run with the grain of the stone, but other areas run against the grain and thus are even more noticable. I assume there is nothing we can do about this, but it can't hurt to ask. Thanks. Mary, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mary: They could be some natural flaws in the stone - though the way you describe them are pretty much unheard of; or they could be indeed the epoxy they used to fill the pits and fissures. It takes a real pro to do that, because it involves the honing and re-polishing of the slab surface, after the filling has cured. Only a handful of fabricators all throughout the country can do that, and with some special (very expensive) equipment (a bed polisher) which is as rarely seen in a fabrication shop as a white fly! Without seeing them, however, it's impossible for me to tell for sure. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4619: I have granite countertops and emerald green marble floors in my house. I have never sealed or polished them. Is there a product or process to use on their care? I always see marble floors in the malls that have a nice shine. I would like to achieve this look at home. What should I use for this and to seal the granite? Thanks Deb, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Debbie: If you want to know how the malls achieve that "nice shine" (which look yucky to me anyway!), you go there on any given night at 2:00 AM or so and you will know! Very high maintenance, even if the wrong one!Now what's wrong with your Emerald Pearl tiles and countertop that you would like them to get to look like plastic? Aren't they shiny enough? I can promise you that they are shiner that the malls floor! Listen to me: keep your stone as natural as possible. It's one of the most enjoyable that money can buy, and doesn't even need to be sealed with an impregnator-type sealer. Don't complicate your life with something that you don't actually want! Just follow a few basic maintenance procedures, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4618: My wife and I recently finished construction on our new house and I just notice the White Carrera marble tiles in my shower are cracking. The cracks all run horizontal through the middle of the 12" x 12" tiles through multiple tiles. I do not believe it from the house settling because it is on the second floor and I can see no damage directly below it on the ceiling or in the foundation. The tiles were installed on a scratch coat laid on wire lath with paper lath. Could this be from the expansion of the tiles? Green wood framing warping? or do you think it is a settlement issue. The tiles have very thin grout lines with white silicon looking material. Please help me figure this out. Thanks so much. Brian, Jan 29 Reply |
| R1: Dear Brian: You mean the tiles on the stall's walls are cracked? Never experienced anything like that before in my life. Never heard about installing wall tiles on wire lath with paer lath, either. I have no idea, sorry, but I would exclude the settlement issue completely. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4610: Hello, Is it possible to add antifreeze to grout mixture in freezing temperatures, without affecting the strength? And if so, how much per 60# bag. Thank you Gene, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Gene:I have no idea! But I highly doubt it. To the best of my (little) knowledge on this subject, an anti-freezing solution is not supposed to cure by design. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Dear Gene. You can purchase anti-freeze for mortar. Don't know how much it costs in the US though. Bryan UK |
| Q 4609: We recently renovated our kitchen and chose Granite for our counter top and porcelian tile for our backsplash and floor. We had a fondue party and one of our guests, trying to be helpful poured the hot oil into a plastic container which had cold water in it. The entire container exploded all over my beautiful new kitchen staining everything from my granite counter top to my walls and floor. The grout is also stained and I am at my wits end. What can I do to remove these stains? Will I need to re-grout? I heard you can remove stains from granite if you torch them but when I tried it didn't work. Please help, Joanne, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joanne: What a mess! But you already knew that, didn't ya!! :-) Well, I try to be amusing all the time, but I do realize that your situation is not funny. Using a blow-torch to remove oily stains is a "first line of attack", so to speak, that only works (and not completely, or all the time) with mercantile granites that are not very absorbent. It doesn't seem to be your case, alas! What's more, your stone and tile grout has not been sealed properly with a good-quality impregnator sealer, obviously. What to do now? I would have a little chat with your fabricator first, if I were you. Questions such as: "Why didn't you seal my stone properly?", and "What can you do now to help me out?" are really begging for an answer. After all, they made good money out the deal, didn't they? !If that won't work, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help. The solution is going to be very laborious, I can promise you that! The good part is that I will even reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What else do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4608: I have a marble floor which seems to fit the general definition of spalling. It is pitted and look like the surface of the moon. I have been told that moisture is trapped between the foundation (concrete slab) and the underside of the tiles. Is there a chemical action going on there? Does it have a name? Is this disease well known among tiling experts. Is there a fix? If I pull up all the tiles and put down new won't the same thing happen again unless the foundation cracks are sealed. Advice? Anyone knowledgeable in this area please contact Jim, USA. Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jim:Whoever told you that the spalling you're experiencing (yes, it is spalling!) is due to the migration of moisture from the cement slab sitting on the ground, through the core of the stone, is somebody who, very definitely knows what he or she is talking about! Yes, there's a chemical reaction going on between the water within the stone and the stone chemical makeup. The only solution is to rip out the floor, the apply a good-quality water-proof membrane onto the cement slab before proceeding with the new installation. Hey, It's only money! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4607: I have 2 year old Uba Tuba grantie as my kitchen countertops. They seem to have completely lost their luster and appear dull, often showing water spots. I want to know how often to seal the product and what to use and what you recommend for daily cleaning and periodic shining. Itanlian Craftsman Stone Cleaner was recommended to me but on some sebsite they say only to use it on marble and only a small dab (if at all) on granite. What is your suggestion? Reicher, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Reicher, Trust me, your Ubatuba countertop is just as shiny as the day they installed it in your home! Under the gunk you now have on it, that is!! :-) Starting from the impregnator-sealer they applied onto it and that had no business being there to begin with! After that, let me guess: following the "smart" suggestion given to you by your fabricator, you've been "cleaning" your countertop using water with some dish soap in it, right?! You have chosen a material (Ubatuba) that's supposed to be as bullet-proof and enjoyable as they come, but you have all sorts of problems because to the "intelligence" about its maintenance that was given to you about it! Great, ain't it! :-) And now you hope to solve the problem by applying some more gunk onto its surface! Trust me, if you keep listening to all them "salesmen" and the "miracle-stone-polish-in-a-bottle" they'll be pushing on you, you countertop will get at least ½" thicker before you know it!As in most cases in life, the answer is much easier that it looks! What you have to do is to get rid of all the gunk sitting on your top, and live happily ever after, not before having learned how to properly take care of your beautiful and enjoyable stone! Since I highly doubt that you will get any real intelligence on the subject from all the stone "gurus" you've been in contact with, you are welcome to gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com for guidance on how to strip your countertop and how to get my proven maintenance guideline for residential stone installations. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you already know how good it's been the "free" advice you've been getting from your expert "salesmen". Furthermore, I will even reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What more do you want from me?! :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4605: We
have recently purchased a new ome with {I believe} has 'Venetian Gold' granite
o the kitchen island countertop. I don't know if it was sealed, or even
needs to be, by the installer. We have noticed that the surface has alot
of pores and crags in it, particularly if viewed fron an angle. We have
seen other granite tops where it appeared solid like a piece of glass. Is
this just the way it was cut? A different type of granite? Sealed with a
particular type of product? We avoid getting anything acidic on the island until we know if we need to seal it. What product or type of product would you recommend to get a more solid -less grainy finish to this type of granite? Thanks! mark, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mark:As you can find out by consulting Dr. Daniel's table of the 150 most popular granites, Venetian Gold is a horse of a different color! Due to the fact that so many stones of a different geological makeup are classified as "granite" in this happy stone industry, there's no such a thing like a general, blanket statement of any sort, about the appearance of the stone's surface. What you're reporting about your particular "granite" is pretty much in line with the characteristic of that particular stone. The good news is that it's nothing to worry about. To find out whether or not your countertop had been originally sealed with an impregnator ("Venetian Gold" does need sealing, unless it was "resined" by the factory), just spill some water on the stone's surface and let it sit there for 10 minutes or so. If you see that the area where the water was sitting doesn't become any darker than the rest, then it does not need to be sealed. If it does, then it does need to be sealed with a good-quality impregnator sealer. Don't you worry about acidic spills: that stone - like most mercantile granites - is indeed acid-resistant. That's the main reason (though not certainly the only one) why "granite" is the stone of choice for a kitchen countertop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4603: I have purchased natural maple cabinets with an antique white finish (creates white residue in the grooves on the moulding). I am also using white appliances. I do not know if I should go with a dark/black type granite top. Perhaps I should go with less contrast and go for a more earth toned or taupy top. what is your BEST color recommendation?? Kathleen, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kathleen:I’m no interior designer and I’m 25% color-blind to booth! You do NOT want me to advise you about your decoration decisions! :-)As a mechanic I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.I did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings! (See polsting No. 4607 above!) Don’t become another statistic!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4602: We
have a serious dilemma on our hands and need the opinion of "Tile Installation
Experts" as to how we might remedy "Travertine Tile Cracking"
(3) months after installation. Here's the history of the job:
We had 500 square feet of "Travertine Tile" installed in the entryway thru to the kitchen area of our "new" home back in May of 2002. The "1960-built" house is very well constructed: (*) Floor joists 1.5" thick (by) 11" wide (on) 16" centers (*) We have 3/4" of plywood with approximately 1/16" of the original sheet-type vinyl flooring still in place (*) The Installer then "nail-gunned" 1/4" backer board on top of the original vinyl (*) The 18" square Travertine Tiles were then laid diagonally in a "thin-set" bonding mortar About 2-3 months after it was finished, cracks appeared, 2 (to) 3 tiles in a row and in line with each other. There were five crack areas. Recently, the installer pulled up about 10 cracked tiles, which revealed the backer board. Sure enough, the cracks were in line with the seams of the backer board. More cracks are appearing and they too are along the seam lines of the backer board. He seemed to believe that the problem is a result of "deflection" or movement of the original flooring. He followed the manufacture's recommendations for installing the backerboard (using appx. 1 1/2" nails placed along markings appx. every 8-10 inches). I tend to believe that had the backer board been better fastened to the original floor, that perhaps this wouldn't have happened. I also wonder if the vinyl floor had been removed, perhaps there wouldn't have been movement/deflection along the seams of the backer board. Here are our questions: 1. Why did this happen? 2. What would professional installers suggest we do to cure the problems? We would appreciate any guidance/help
in this matter. Thanks sincerely. Joy Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joy: Have your contractor solve the problem; after all they made good money out of the deal! The situation you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 4601: I have a granite counter top in my kitchen to which I applied the"lemon juice" test and the result was excellent. The lemon juice was not absorbed at all. However, there is a "dark" area which has appeared around the sink, (Approx. 24' x 3") which is very noticeable. (The granite is a honey/grey color). I have no idea what has caused the stain and would really appreciate any advice as to how to remove it. Thank you. G.S. Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear G.S.: To answer your question I need to know if the sink is under-mount. Assuming that it is, then the material they used to glue the sink to the bottom of the slab has seeped through. If this is the case, it's terminal: nothing will ever remove that stain. The "lemon juice test" is performed on the polished side of the slab (which is way less absorbent than the rough side) to determine whether or not the mercantile granite at hand needs to be sealed with an impregnator-type product or not. No impregnator/sealer applied in the stone from its top surface - no matter how good a product -- could do anything to prevent staining from below. Only the I.Q. and expertise of the fabricator could! If the sink is a drop-in instead, there's hope. Have your fabricator solve the problem; after all they made good money out of the deal! The situation you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4600: I am quite dismayed - I purchased a St. Cecilia countertop 4 months ago, and already the little red spots are chipping away. Is there anything I can do to save my counter - I feel like there will be nothing left in a year! Eve, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eve: What did your fabricator tell you about that? Never mind, I don't wanna know!It could be one of two things (or, maybe, even a combo!): 1. The slab was a poor grade (maybe the fabricator got a "good deal" from the distributor). 2. The fabricator didn't give you the right intelligence about proper maintenance of your stone. What did they tell you to use, dish soap or glass cleaner?!! (See posting No. 4607 above.) There's nothing I can do for you from here. Have your fabricator tackle the problem; after all, they made good money out of the deal! What you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4599: I will be remodeling my kitchen this year and would love to use granite for the countertops, but am getting somewhat discouraged. I have been reading the findstone website until my head is about to explode. I've talked to people in local home improvement stores and stone companies and have received so much conflicting information that I'm about at my wits' end. You allude many times online to advice and publications that you can provide for a small fee. Would you please let me know what this entails. I can't make any decisions until I feel that I'm properly informed, and certainly don't feel that way yet! Thanks, Katie, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Katie: It entails a "huge" $17 expenditure ($5 for this site to help them keep it up, and $12 for my publication. You will be told how to go about this). But that's just the beginning! In fact, I will also reveal you the "secret" to get your "big" $17 investment back! What more do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4597: I spilled a vinegar and water solution on a marble floor and it has been etched. How do I get the smooth shine back and what products do you recommend? A true novice, John, USA, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear John: If the etching is severe or too extensive (i.e.: all throughout the floor), you will need the (expensive!) services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor. If it's a small area and the etching is not too bad (it seldom is, with a solution of water and vinegar), then there are specific products that will enable you to do the job yourself. To find out more about this and / or to recognize a "doctor" from a "quack", should you need to hire a stone refinisher, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you won't be a novice anymore afterwards! What's more, I will reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What more do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4596: Hello, First of all please explain to me the "lemon test". Thank you. Next, disaster struck last week when the fabricators for my kitchen counter cut the opening for the sink too large. The slab of granite I selected was the only one , Giallo Vyara, at this particular company. I know they are trying to find a similar piece to salvage what has been cut and does fit, but what are the odds of finding a piece to complete this project? I thought I would help by doing some of my own research as I truly like the slab I chose. Does this particular granite vary greatly in color and veining? What is the easiest way to try to find a similar slab? HELP!!!! Thank you, Kathryn, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kathryn: The odds to find a decent match are slim. Yes, this particular mercantile granite varies greatly in color and veining. There's no answer to your last question. Just let your fabricator deal with the problem; it's their job! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4595: We have one square of granite in our kitchen counter that is too light for the granite around it (it was replaced due to a crack). Is there any way a granite piece that is already set in place, though not yet grouted, be stained so that it "bleeds" into the granite pieces so they will match better at the edges? Lydia Hartsock Anacortes, WA, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lydia: Does your newly installed "granite" tile becomes darker if you let some water sit on it? If so, does this darker hue match the rest of the tiles to your satisfaction? I the answer to both question is, yes, then the application of a good-quality color enhancer should do the trick for you. If not, the answer to your question is, no. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4594: We're buying a "fixer upper" house that needs a complete kitchen and we're planning on using granite for the countertops. Since we're only in the planning stages, this seems like the best time to ask for your maintenance guide so we do it right from the beginning. Thank you, R brown, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear R. Brown: Smart decision, indeed, but, as I always say, maintenance begins before you choose the stone. What's more, a stone - any stone - is just as good as the operator who processes it! So what you need first is to learn how to shop right! I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" . Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4592: I
am hoping you could help me and give me direction. I am looking to buy
granite slabs for my office. One will be for a conference table and the
second will be for two counters. I am looking for a black granite. The
color must be solid and some small color flecks of a single color, gold,
silver, etc. would be acceptable (like the picture of the Black Galaxy).
My problem is that last year I purchased granite for my kitchen counters
and, frankly, I was severely ripped off. I bought what I was told was
Juparana Gold. It is riddled with holes and has a very inconsistent finish.
The more I look at other granites for my office, the more I realize I
was scammed because I paid 30% more than other slabs that are in far better
condition and far more "beautiful". I am determined not be defrauded
again. |
| R1: Dear Jeff: Sorry to hear about your residential problem with "granite". Let's not make it happen again! Black mercantile granites in general are among the best choices, including my very favorite, "Black Galaxy". (No pits in those!) But … Like in any other industry, there are lots of crooks out there! The "undisclosed" and "secret" grading of mercantile granites is not easy to detect; but there are ways. Furthermore, some black "granites" are "doctored" by the factory (not the fabricator) to make them "blacker" than they actually are! Finally, a material - any material - is just as good as the operator who processes it! Should you feel like using my assistance to safely sail through your new natural stone adventure, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 4591: I'd like to know what to use on small chips on the surface of granite 12x12 tile? Also if granite tile can be installed without grout lines? Thanks Jodi, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jody: Answer to question No.1: NOTHING. The chips must be drilled deep first, or nothing will ever bond in them; second they have to be filled with and epoxy compound (not an easy stuff to handle); third, the surface of tiles has to honed and re-polished. Only a handful of professionals (I mean: ONE handful, not two!) all throughout the US can pull a stunt like that! Answer to second question: NO. You must leave at least a little gap (the thickness of a flat toothpick) for proper deep grouting. Caulking to match the color of the tiles is my favorite. Apply it, push it SERIOUSLY in with a putty knife, remove the worst of the excess with a wet sponge; then, when cure, use a razor blade to thoroughly clean any residue along the grout lines. It's stainless, shiny, just about forever and needs no sealing! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4590: Please provide the specific brand names of sealers for kitchen granite and the like countertops. also can they be purchased at lowes, home depot, etc.? clay....., Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Clay: What does this look like, a site where we free advertise various products from various producers who don't give hoot about your problems because are too busy "selling it"? Besides, there's no such an animal like the BEST sealer for ALL the various stones traded as granite. Many of them don't even need to be sealed! Specialty cleaning products for routine maintenance are more important than a sealer (although, when needed, impregnator/sealer are quite important indeed) and apply to ALL natural stones, not just a bunch! If you need specific assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I will tell you a way to get your money back! If you don't want to go through that, you can always count on the "free" advice of the "salesmen"! The only problem is that you won't find them in here. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4585: I
need advise quickly because the developer of the house i am buying told
me that the granite has already been ordered for the house i am purchasing,
however, if it hasn't been cut yet, i would be able to choose another, which
i really want I want to do because I do not like their selection.
I only have two choices at the moment: Baltic Brown and Golden Leaf (I think that's how it's spelled). Which one is more stain resistant to oils etc, and also more durable with respect to scraches and chips? I've heard that the darker one (Baltic Brown) will be more stain resistant, but the lighter one will be harder and more scratch resistant??? Are those my choices? Also, does Baltic Brown have alot of green in it, or is it mostly dark tan and black, which is what I saw.??? Is the Golden Leaf mostly brown, tan tiny spots of black, or can it be very yellow?? Thanks for your advise.
Robin K. Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Robin: Wow, some intelligence to go by!! I hope they don't charge you for that! I have no comment about the possible colors in those two stones. Other than that, I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4583: We had beautiful granite countertops put into our "high end" kitchen in November. We have a large island that requires a fairly large piece of granite. We had "brazilian blue" granite installed. The piece on the island had 2 places on opposite sides with very long fissures(cracks). We can feel them. There are also chips (i guess that is what they are called) that were filled in and after cleaning the counter the fill has just come up leaving lovely chips. This is our first experience with granite...Is this normal or are we being the pain in the .....customer that wants a nice countertops for over $15,000 . We have a lot of tops....also there are spots where the stone is cracked alot underneath....is this normal as well???? Is this common in this style of granite or all?? Sam, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: R1: Dear Sam: For what you're reporting, it sounds to me like you've been taken for a royal ride! FYI allow me to list the stone industry standards about fabrication of granite kitchen countertops for you:1. Get a shingle, write "marble & granite" on it, and then hang it out of your door (the bigger the shingle, the better; color red is best!). 2. Get hold of some "salesman" and get as much education about stone as possible. That is: "This is marble because I say so, and this is granite because I say so again!" End of the education (It's enough, trust me!). 3. Buy some equipment with the money that you'll be borrowing from your brother-in-law and get started! You will learn as you go!! (Besides, you can always count on the free teaching of the "salesmen"!) 4. Learn by heart two key sentences: "It's a natural flaw (fissure) in the stone" and "What we did is within industry standards". (These are meant to keep your irate and 'picky' customers at bay for good! If for any chance they will dare asking you to show them the industry standards, you tell them that you'll get back to them on this one. After that, you add another shingle under the original one announcing: "Under new management", so if they come over and see you, you'll tell them that you just work there and the owner lives in Bermuda or somethin') 5. Make sure that the balance is paid in full to you BEFORE you actually install the countertop in the house of your customer. (Finding an excuse such as 'my truck broke down' or somethin', so that the check clears before you go to install is a must!)These, Sam, are the standards of the industry I'm ashamed to belong to when I hear stories like yours.Under the circumstances your best friend is you lawyer. The lack of standards won't help your case, but it won't help theirs, either! You have to keep in mind that a judge is a person, and I don't think that he or she would be a happy camper at the idea of having an expensive granite countertop all cracked and chipped in his or her own home! Personally, I would not give up. You have a beautiful home and you do NOT want a piece of crap like that as a kitchen countertop. If your lawyer's staff needs technical assistance, have them gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone,com. There's a little fee involved, as you'll be informed about. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit |
| Q 4582: I have been reading the "Find Stone" web page, and as usual nice guys finish last. So I will be more than Happy to pay for Good advice. I live in Las Vegas and you would think that with all the granite and marble in this city there would be some competent people? Anyway, here is my dilemma, I'm having 18x18 travertine floor put in-honed and filled. Someone, somewhere, when they filled it looks like it was overfilled, then packed into the pallets. Now there is a white haze and brown spots. Not on every piece but a lot of them. Any suggestions would be Great, also I plan on redoing the counter tops with granite. So if you can tell me anything as far as color. I cook a lot and even with proper sealing it sounds like some colors are better than others. Hope this wasn't too long. Thank You very much. Venesa Mascolino, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Vanesa Mascolino: Oh, they are competent all right! They are very competent "salesmen"!! :-)About the "granite" countertop is not that certain colors are better than others, it is rather than certain STONES are better than others!Anyway, I'll be glad to help you with all your issues. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me directly. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll teach you a way to get all your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4581: I just found this website after having a "Madura Gold" countertop nstalled in my kitchen last week. I was looking information on maintaining of the granite. I'm shocked to hear that "Madura Gold" is not considered granite. Does that mean my supplier used false advertising in selling it to me? Should I anticipate problems with my countertop. Needless to say, I'm a bit upset. Lynn, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: : Dear Lynn: Welcome to stone industry, where every stone that takes a polish but doesn't look like marble is labeled as granite! Is it a fraud? Big time, if you ask me! But unless you have a million dollar to spend to sue the whole industry, what are you gonna do?! :-) Just relax and try to get the most out of your stone! The majority of all the mercantile granites are enjoyable if care for properly. The fact the you're were surfing the web to seek advice on how to care about your "granite" tells me that you didn't get much intelligence about it from your fabricator, did you!Anyway, you came to the right place! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), and they do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4580: I just bought a house with limestone countertops -- probably 5 years old. I am looking for advice on caring for them. Thank you for any help you can provide. Lorrie, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lorrie: Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and I'll be glad to help you out by offering you my maintenance guidelines. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I will show you a way to have all of your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4579: I've told two more people. I'm in the market for a granite counter top for my kitchen. I've narrowed it down to two - Verde Dorado and Imperial Caffe. I'm looking for a good low absorption counter. Is either one of these a good choice? I want to minimize staining. Thanks Michelle, Canada, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Michelle: I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4578: Is Uba Tuba a Granite? We recently had this installed and were under the impression from the salesman this was a granite. We have a haze to it and it appears a round water mark from a glass. What should we do? Thanks. Julie, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Julie: Of course it is not granite! It's a "mercantile granite", but if you want to know the real "nature of the beast" it is Charnokite (as you can verify by consulting Dr. Daniel table), which, in my opinion, is a stone that, for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop, is better than true geological granite. It's (or, under the circumstances, better said, SHOULD be) very enjoyable and worry-free. Your problem has nothing to do with the nature of the stone (or perhaps it does, in a way … But that's another story!). I know exactly what it is, and I can tell you that the fabricator is the one that unknowingly created the problem (it's typical!). Since they made a nice piece of change out of you, I feel very strongly that they should be solving it. But, hey, it's just me! If for any chance it turns out that they can't, gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone,com. There going to be a little fee involved, as you will be instructed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4577: We had our kitchen cxounter tops done in black impala granite, we find if we put a wet glass for too long on it we end up with water ring stains. What is the best cleaner to use on granite. Thank you, James, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear James: Impala black is not supposed to behave like that and, in fact, it does not. It looks to me like your fabricator doesn't have the answer to your question. I do, but it has nothing to do with a cleaner. Most likely your fabricator unknowingly created the problem (it's typical!). Since they made a nice piece of change out of you, I feel very strongly that they should be solving it. But, hey, it's just me! If for any chance it turns out that they can't, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There going to be a little fee involved, as you will be instructed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4574: Do you know the Greek quarry name for the marble sold in america as "SPIDER"? It is off-white with little rusty veins. Thanks so much, CRG, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: The material you refer to is traded as Golden Spider. Burzin |
| Q 4573: Hi, I understand you sell some information about how to clean travertine floors in a shower. Ours were sealed 3 years ago when istalled, but they have become badly discolored on the shower floor and the stone cleaners (Stone Medic Soap and another one--Deep Cleaner) I have purchased do not cut it. So, please send information about what you can provide by way of advice and how much your materials cost.Carol, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Carol: I'd love to encourage you to use my products instead, but I would be just making an extra "sale" that I don't need (only "salesmen" do!). I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but I am afraid that you have water behind and under your travertine tiles, and the consequent migration of moisture through the core of the stone creates all sorts of damages that emerge on the surface as the "soil" that you can't clean with anything. Check your grout and caulk lines and you will see that some of either one (or both) are missing. (Where those tiles set "butt-joint"?)You had better get hold of a proven stone restoration contractor to assess your situation (probably for a fee), but I can anticipate to you that, in most cases, the only solution is to rip out the whole thing and start over. The silver-lining in the whole picture is that's only money! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4572: We are building a new home and want to do the master shower, floor, top of the tub and the countertop in marble. The installer called today and said I should look into Indonesia marble because it is water resistant and he will not have to use epoxy to install it. That would bring the cost of the installation down quite a bit? My questions what is the difference between Indonesia marble and the marble I had picked-Empress green. Thank you. Barb, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Barb: Your installer must know something that I don't! I have no idea about the mineralogy of the Indonesia marble you're mentioning (green, I take it); therefore I can't comment on your contractor's statement. The question is: where did he get his information and how reliable it is! Regardless, it's no longer necessary to use epoxy to set Empress green (here, now maybe I know something that you contractor doesn't!!). There are rapid setting stone adhesives (not glue, please!), such as the one carried by the Home Depot, by the Custom Builders company (Stone Setting Adhesive, or something like that) that works great, is much easier to use, and cost only marginally more than regular thin-set. I use it all the time to install greens.Joke aside, I am under the impression that you contractor does care about his job. Just make sure that they do NOT "butt-joint" the tiles on the walls and floor of the shower enclosure. Big installation failure ahead, if they did! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4571: I am wondering if Kinawa is a true granite since there seems to be confsuion about what people think they have purchased. The installer sealed it with impregnator 511 but it shows dark areas after anything wet sits for a few minutes. Does it need another coat: Judy, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Judy: Of course, it's not true geological granite! To find out what it is I suggest you to check it out in Dr. Daniel's table of 150 most popular "granites". That said, obviously the product is not the right one for that particular stone, or the contractor didn't apply it right (a product - any product - is just as good as the operator who uses it!). Your countertop will probably need several more applications. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4570: I have a costume that has a concern about pitting in her granite the material is black pearl from india . through the cutting process this material chipped at the edges more so than others . is there something i can explain to her regarding this issue Rob, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rob: You can try telling your customer that not all mercantile granites are the same and that many of them have natural pitting, etc., but I can anticipate to you that with some people is gonna be a hard-sell. This is an issue that should be tackled BEFORE the installation, at the time of the selection of the slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4568: I am using Giallo Cabaca granite for one of my countertops. Can you tell me what country it comes from? Thank you. MPD, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear MPD: I have no idea, but by the name it sounds Brazilian. Did you check Dr. Daniel's granite table to see if it's listed? Is there anything else that you would like to know about it? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4567: We have found some marble agglomerate we like and are considering it for our kitchen counters. Is this a good idea? Does it need to be sealed? Heidi, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Heidi: Nope, it is not! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4564: We have an absolute black granite countertop. In attempting to open a bottle of wine a friend slammed the tilted bottom of the bottle on to the top of the granite. This left a “white” “spot” (1/4”x 1/8”) where the granite was “crushed”. Do you have any suggestions…a penetrating sealer? Clear nailpolish? Pick out the crushed material? Do nothing? Thanks, David, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear David: Ouch! A penetrating sealer won't do squat (what the heck has it got to do with it?!). And neither will clear nail-polish. You can try using the tip of a permanent black magic marker. Make sure it's brand-new (filled with ink that is) and let the tip sit on the damaged area for several seconds to allow for maximum penetration of the black stuff. If that won't work and there is a little indentation, you can try to fill it with black nail-polish. If that still doesn't work, if you have a pair of brass ones, you can drill the damaged area using a fine diamond tipped bit on a "Dremmel" type rotary tool. Don't go too deep. Just enough to be able to fill the little hole with black silicon caulking. When it's almost dry, shave the filler with a razor blade to make it flush with the surface and clean the residue that may have smeared the immediate surrounding area. Of course, the best thing to do would be to drill and fill with black epoxy, but it is NOT, by far, a DIYer project. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4563: My question is this. Our house, built around 1888, has a sandstone foundation in the "rubble stone" style. The basement has concrete floor. The problem is the sandstone sheds sand onto the floor. Can you recommend a sealant for the sandstone that would stop the shedding? Thanks. David, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: David, Are you talking about a small but constant amount of sand, or areas of major sloughing off. If the second case, you need to get a restoration specialist to look at it as it could be a sign of significant deterioration within the stone itself. If it is the first case, the reason the stone is still in good shape after so many years is that the stone has been able to breathe, especially if the basement is below grade, and not get saturated with moisture wicking in from outside. Some of the sealers on the market today claim to be "breathable", but before putting anything on the stone, I would research the product extensively. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4562: We just recently installed a "absolute black" granite for a bar top and were told that we did not need to worry about a sealer right away. Anyway we have had the bar top for only two weeks and there are rings all over the bar just from where beer and soda cans were that we have tried removing with "Care Kit" for marble, granite etc. and nothing is working. We tried the lemon test and it does not absorb the liquid, but when removing the juice, it does leave a gray area where the juice was. Needless to say, these gray rings all over look awful and are driving us nuts trying to remove them. Also, should this have been sealed right away or not? Nord, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Nord: There are three possibilities: 1. They told you that they didn't seal it, but they did, and the impregnator/sealer that had no business being there is getting damaged by the acid (including the lemon).2. The slab of "black absolute" is in reality another black wannabe, which has been "doctored" by the factory (not your fabricator) to make it "blacker" (Very possibly Black Zimbabwe, which is a dark gray dolerite) and thus more sellable. If that's the case, the acid is eating away the black "shoe polish" that was applied onto it.3. It's one of those as rare-as-a-white-fly crappy black "granite" with a certain percentage of calcite in it that actually gets etched when hit by acids.Of course, the "Care kit" (that no true professional ever uses anyway) did some good only to its manufacturer and the outfit that sold it to you. Kits like that (which all too often don't work even at doing what they were originally designed for) are supposed to remove stains, not what you have, which are either surface damages (case No. 3), or damages to some chemical that was applied to the stone (case 1 and 2). Under the circumstances I lean toward the possibility No. 2. You will need a proven professional stone refinisher to assess the situation and try to equalize the whole surface of the stone, by working some oxalic acid wet onto it with a right-angle grinder (slow speed) And a white nylon pad on a 7" diameter holder. Who should be paying for that is a totally different story. One thing is for sure: Black Absolute does NOT do that if left alone (not sealed, that is). Also, if it's Zimbabwe, it will turn out to be what it really is: dark gray, not black. If you can live with that, then it's an extremely rugged and enjoyable stone. Do NOT have it sealed.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4560: I wish to ship Limestone floor paving slabs by sea container vessel on a journey lasting 4-5 weeks.What is the likelyhood of the product disintegrating on me because of its charachteristics ? Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: I wish I knew! You want to take your chances with limestone? It's your call, Pal! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Package it well, and make sure the crates are loaded into the container with enough blocking to keep them from moving around, and you should be ship shape so to speak. I shipped 3 forty foot containers of Texas limestone to Hawaii recently with out a single chip or crack. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R3: Package it well, and make sure the crates are loaded into the container with enough blocking to keep them from moving around, and you should be ship shape so to speak. I shipped 3 forty foot containers of Texas limestone to Hawaii recently with out a single chip or crack. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4559: I have a green onyx base (9" x 12") on which stands a bronze detailed statue of a Russian Officer on a horse and a onyx 2" ball. This unit was inherited from an Uncle. How does one go about polishing the surface of the onyx to remove surface scratches that have developed from handling over the past 60-70 years? I have tried both a rubbing compound and an extremely fine finish compound by 3-m (both work well on fibreglas gelcoat). Thankyou for your advice. Monte, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Monte: Stop fooling around with your onyx and hire a professional stone refinisher. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4558: I have a kitchen island with a marble Carrera top. The marble has gotten scratched from having a butcher's block placed on top of it. How can those scratches be removed? PAn, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Pan: If the surface of the stone has a hone-finish, they can be removed with metal-grade sandpaper (100, 200 and 400 grit), and then some good-quality honing powder should be rubbed in wet to blend in with the rest of the slab. If your marble is polished instead, then they can only be removed by hiring a proven professional stone refinisher. Now, you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4557: We recent had a marble top installed on a heavy metal table frame, we had the marble sealed by the installer as well, however, the installer advice us not to let any cirtus liquid sit on the top very long, such as lemon or orange juice etc, because it will stain it, well. we just noticed a ring stain left by a can of Sprite cold soda, that cold drink sat about 3 hours....do you have a remedy, is there something we can buy to apply on the ring and remove it any suggestions will appreciated... Raymends, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Reymends: It's not only citric acid that damage marble: every acid will do, including phosphoric, which is present in many sodas. Not only that, acids and many alkaline salts, too, don't need to sit long on the marble surface to etch it: a couple of seconds will do! The consequent surface damage is not a stain, of course, and it represents a small, yet full fledged restoration project. There are products on the market that homeowners can use to repair light to medium severity etchings. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'll be glad to point you on the right direction! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4555: I took the advice from an interior designer friend about installing French limestone in my 11,000 sq. ft. home. We supposedly got the stone from France through her. It is cream colored. We used an impregnator that cost an astronomical amount. Each piece was impregnated before installation. I was concerned about the discolored areas in the stone from the beginning. I was told by numerous people that it was from the quarry. I live in MS and the guy who installed all my stone, tile, was highly recommended in this area, however, I do not think he had any knowledge about limestone. I did research on it and knew that it should be impregnated lst. Did this. The finish is honed. They grouted the floor and supposedly cleaned the haze off. At this time, my designer friend was not around. We sealed the floor again. I came in one day and they were buffing the floor. I did not think they should have. The floor had swirl marks all over it. I did not like it, but wanted the house finished. This has been 2 years in doing. We moved in the end of July and since then the floor looks muddled and dirty all the time. I have used neutral cleaners and it is just progressively getting worse. My dog had accident and the floor was etched from this. He is a male and was marking. I used a pumice solution and buffed it out with the finest grade steel wool. It looked better but not great. The entire floor in house looks horrible to me. I thought with time and wear the swirl would fade, but it has gotten this dirty stained look. It definitely doesn't look honed and it is not shiny. I am in process of stripping with a stone product. I am resealing again. I am sitting here looking at my living room that we just completed 2nd coat on. I do not think it is going to improve my situation. Any suggestions. I am desperate, frustrated, and tired of spending money correcting what my ignorant installers did wrong or just did not want to help me find out the correct way to do it in the beginning. ANY ADVICE would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Lynn, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lynn: When we spoke on the phone a few days ago you didn't tell me that the tiles had been sealed BEFORE installation. That was the first BIG mistake! A stone floor should never be sealed before at least two weeks after installation (three it's even better!), to allow the setting material to dry properly. If the tiles are pre-sealed they will slow the drying process considerably by trapping the moisture in and - especially with limestone - possibly creating all sorts of problems, all too many of which, without a solution. About all the rest, I already told you what has to be done: that floor has to be heavily re-honed by a proven professional stone refinisher, using either diamond pads, or a good-quality honing powder (I personally lean toward the latter). The test that I had you made with the sand paper confirms that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4554: I need to know how to remove scratches from black marble tile in my living room floor! email me relevant information, Leta, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Leta: Hire a PROVEN professional stone refinisher.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4553: Could you please list the pros & cons of Honed Granite & Use & Care of Honed Granite. Thank You, Kerri, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kerri: Here's your list: Cons: IT'S A MAINTENANCE NIGHTMARE. Pros: None. Use and Care of honed granite: Don't ask me! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4552: We have purchased a 20mm granite benchtop and are having the basin hole cut on site and the bench installed on site. The basin cutout will leave 4cm at the back and 5cm at the front. The basin is a sit in, edge on granite. The bench top sits in an alcove and the installers will be putting noggings around 3 sides during the installation (I assume). We do not intend to have a vanity underneath and I am concerned that the slab has sufficient strength without additional support. Please help. Kay, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Since the cut-out was done on location, the narrows areas have not been rodded. 4cm and 5cm, huh … I would be EXTREMELY concerned, too! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4551: WE HAVE A TEXAS SHELL STONE FIREPLACE AND IT HAS SOOT ON IT..HOW CAN YOU CLEAN THIS STONE WITHOUT DESTROYING THE FOSSILS ? Josehp, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joseph: 1. A solution of warm water and regular household bleach (2:1);2. A soft to medium-bristle brush;3. Lots of mashing (walls and floor);4. 200 Lbs. of patience and 300 Lbs. of elbow-grease!And keep your windows open! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Joseph, All those nasty little shells can catch a lot of dirt and debris
can't they. First use your vacuum and suck out as much loose material as
possible. Then using a mild Ph neutral soap (nothing acidic please) and
a brush with bristles stiff enough to get down into the shells but not hard
enough to scratch the st |