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| Q 4623: I am quite dismayed - I purchased a St. Cecilia countertop 4 months ago, and already the little red spots are chipping away. Is there anything I can do to save my counter - I feel like there will be nothing left in a year! Eve, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eve: Have you been using glass cleaner or some other generic stuff like that for routine cleaning? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4621: I purchased a home on the Seattle waterfront with a living room fireplace which is the focal point in the room (~ 13 ft. wide x 8.5 ft tall). The stone used looks like a bed rock material with fossils in it and is cream colored. Can you pls tell me the history of this stone and how to clean it (general purpose cleaning and also how to get soot stains off it). I like the fireplace but actually would like to remove it and update the space but if it's a rare type of stone then I could probably live with it for some time to come. Thanks. Elliot, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Elliot: I have no idea what stone you're talking about, About cleaning soot off it, use a solution of water and regular household bleach (4:1, or more concentrated according to soiling conditions), a medium to stiff bristle brush, and some patience along with plenty of elbow-grease! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4620: We just had granite countertops installed in our new house. The granite is called Vyara or Rosewood, but I think it looks a little like the Juparanas. The fabricator pointed out some pits and fissures to my husband when he was picking out the slab. They were going to cut around them as best they could, and said they would fill the rest with epoxy. Well the counters were installed, and they have some dark. cloudyish, blotchy areas that are slightly greenish. My husband thinks they are just a natural part of the stone, but I find them to be very noticable. My husband doesn't remember if they were there when he looked at the slabs. I am wondering if the epoxy filler they used could cause this. Also, they used a torch to melt some ice off the slab. Could that cause this kind of damage. These blotchy areas are in two separate pieces that were fabricated from two different slabs, but they are isolated in a small area of each piece. Some areas run with the grain of the stone, but other areas run against the grain and thus are even more noticable. I assume there is nothing we can do about this, but it can't hurt to ask. Thanks. Mary, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mary: They could be some natural flaws in the stone - though the way you describe them are pretty much unheard of; or they could be indeed the epoxy they used to fill the pits and fissures. It takes a real pro to do that, because it involves the honing and re-polishing of the slab surface, after the filling has cured. Only a handful of fabricators all throughout the country can do that, and with some special (very expensive) equipment (a bed polisher) which is as rarely seen in a fabrication shop as a white fly! Without seeing them, however, it's impossible for me to tell for sure. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4619: I have granite countertops and emerald green marble floors in my house. I have never sealed or polished them. Is there a product or process to use on their care? I always see marble floors in the malls that have a nice shine. I would like to achieve this look at home. What should I use for this and to seal the granite? Thanks Deb, Jan 29, Reply |
| R1: Dear Debbie: If you want to know how the malls achieve that "nice shine" (which look yucky to me anyway!), you go there on any given night at 2:00 AM or so and you will know! Very high maintenance, even if the wrong one!Now what's wrong with your Emerald Pearl tiles and countertop that you would like them to get to look like plastic? Aren't they shiny enough? I can promise you that they are shiner that the malls floor! Listen to me: keep your stone as natural as possible. It's one of the most enjoyable that money can buy, and doesn't even need to be sealed with an impregnator-type sealer. Don't complicate your life with something that you don't actually want! Just follow a few basic maintenance procedures, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4618: My wife and I recently finished construction on our new house and I just notice the White Carrera marble tiles in my shower are cracking. The cracks all run horizontal through the middle of the 12" x 12" tiles through multiple tiles. I do not believe it from the house settling because it is on the second floor and I can see no damage directly below it on the ceiling or in the foundation. The tiles were installed on a scratch coat laid on wire lath with paper lath. Could this be from the expansion of the tiles? Green wood framing warping? or do you think it is a settlement issue. The tiles have very thin grout lines with white silicon looking material. Please help me figure this out. Thanks so much. Brian, Jan 29 Reply |
| R1: Dear Brian: You mean the tiles on the stall's walls are cracked? Never experienced anything like that before in my life. Never heard about installing wall tiles on wire lath with paer lath, either. I have no idea, sorry, but I would exclude the settlement issue completely. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4610: Hello, Is it possible to add antifreeze to grout mixture in freezing temperatures, without affecting the strength? And if so, how much per 60# bag. Thank you Gene, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Gene:I have no idea! But I highly doubt it. To the best of my (little) knowledge on this subject, an anti-freezing solution is not supposed to cure by design. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Dear Gene. You can purchase anti-freeze for mortar. Don't know how much it costs in the US though. Bryan UK |
| Q 4609: We recently renovated our kitchen and chose Granite for our counter top and porcelian tile for our backsplash and floor. We had a fondue party and one of our guests, trying to be helpful poured the hot oil into a plastic container which had cold water in it. The entire container exploded all over my beautiful new kitchen staining everything from my granite counter top to my walls and floor. The grout is also stained and I am at my wits end. What can I do to remove these stains? Will I need to re-grout? I heard you can remove stains from granite if you torch them but when I tried it didn't work. Please help, Joanne, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joanne: What a mess! But you already knew that, didn't ya!! :-) Well, I try to be amusing all the time, but I do realize that your situation is not funny. Using a blow-torch to remove oily stains is a "first line of attack", so to speak, that only works (and not completely, or all the time) with mercantile granites that are not very absorbent. It doesn't seem to be your case, alas! What's more, your stone and tile grout has not been sealed properly with a good-quality impregnator sealer, obviously. What to do now? I would have a little chat with your fabricator first, if I were you. Questions such as: "Why didn't you seal my stone properly?", and "What can you do now to help me out?" are really begging for an answer. After all, they made good money out the deal, didn't they? !If that won't work, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help. The solution is going to be very laborious, I can promise you that! The good part is that I will even reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What else do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4608: I have a marble floor which seems to fit the general definition of spalling. It is pitted and look like the surface of the moon. I have been told that moisture is trapped between the foundation (concrete slab) and the underside of the tiles. Is there a chemical action going on there? Does it have a name? Is this disease well known among tiling experts. Is there a fix? If I pull up all the tiles and put down new won't the same thing happen again unless the foundation cracks are sealed. Advice? Anyone knowledgeable in this area please contact Jim, USA. Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jim:Whoever told you that the spalling you're experiencing (yes, it is spalling!) is due to the migration of moisture from the cement slab sitting on the ground, through the core of the stone, is somebody who, very definitely knows what he or she is talking about! Yes, there's a chemical reaction going on between the water within the stone and the stone chemical makeup. The only solution is to rip out the floor, the apply a good-quality water-proof membrane onto the cement slab before proceeding with the new installation. Hey, It's only money! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4607: I have 2 year old Uba Tuba grantie as my kitchen countertops. They seem to have completely lost their luster and appear dull, often showing water spots. I want to know how often to seal the product and what to use and what you recommend for daily cleaning and periodic shining. Itanlian Craftsman Stone Cleaner was recommended to me but on some sebsite they say only to use it on marble and only a small dab (if at all) on granite. What is your suggestion? Reicher, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Reicher, Trust me, your Ubatuba countertop is just as shiny as the day they installed it in your home! Under the gunk you now have on it, that is!! :-) Starting from the impregnator-sealer they applied onto it and that had no business being there to begin with! After that, let me guess: following the "smart" suggestion given to you by your fabricator, you've been "cleaning" your countertop using water with some dish soap in it, right?! You have chosen a material (Ubatuba) that's supposed to be as bullet-proof and enjoyable as they come, but you have all sorts of problems because to the "intelligence" about its maintenance that was given to you about it! Great, ain't it! :-) And now you hope to solve the problem by applying some more gunk onto its surface! Trust me, if you keep listening to all them "salesmen" and the "miracle-stone-polish-in-a-bottle" they'll be pushing on you, you countertop will get at least ½" thicker before you know it!As in most cases in life, the answer is much easier that it looks! What you have to do is to get rid of all the gunk sitting on your top, and live happily ever after, not before having learned how to properly take care of your beautiful and enjoyable stone! Since I highly doubt that you will get any real intelligence on the subject from all the stone "gurus" you've been in contact with, you are welcome to gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com for guidance on how to strip your countertop and how to get my proven maintenance guideline for residential stone installations. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you already know how good it's been the "free" advice you've been getting from your expert "salesmen". Furthermore, I will even reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What more do you want from me?! :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4605: We
have recently purchased a new ome with {I believe} has 'Venetian Gold'
granite o the kitchen island countertop. I don't know if it was sealed,
or even needs to be, by the installer. We have noticed that the surface
has alot of pores and crags in it, particularly if viewed fron an
angle. We have seen other granite tops where it appeared solid like
a piece of glass. Is this just the way it was cut? A different type
of granite? Sealed with a particular type of product? We avoid getting anything acidic on the island until we know if we need to seal it. What product or type of product would you recommend to get a more solid -less grainy finish to this type of granite? Thanks! mark, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mark:As you can find out by consulting Dr. Daniel's table of the 150 most popular granites, Venetian Gold is a horse of a different color! Due to the fact that so many stones of a different geological makeup are classified as "granite" in this happy stone industry, there's no such a thing like a general, blanket statement of any sort, about the appearance of the stone's surface. What you're reporting about your particular "granite" is pretty much in line with the characteristic of that particular stone. The good news is that it's nothing to worry about. To find out whether or not your countertop had been originally sealed with an impregnator ("Venetian Gold" does need sealing, unless it was "resined" by the factory), just spill some water on the stone's surface and let it sit there for 10 minutes or so. If you see that the area where the water was sitting doesn't become any darker than the rest, then it does not need to be sealed. If it does, then it does need to be sealed with a good-quality impregnator sealer. Don't you worry about acidic spills: that stone - like most mercantile granites - is indeed acid-resistant. That's the main reason (though not certainly the only one) why "granite" is the stone of choice for a kitchen countertop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4603: I have purchased natural maple cabinets with an antique white finish (creates white residue in the grooves on the moulding). I am also using white appliances. I do not know if I should go with a dark/black type granite top. Perhaps I should go with less contrast and go for a more earth toned or taupy top. what is your BEST color recommendation?? Kathleen, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kathleen:I’m no interior designer and I’m 25% color-blind to booth! You do NOT want me to advise you about your decoration decisions! :-)As a mechanic I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.I did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings! (See polsting No. 4607 above!) Don’t become another statistic!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4602: We
have a serious dilemma on our hands and need the opinion of "Tile
Installation Experts" as to how we might remedy "Travertine
Tile Cracking" (3) months after installation. Here's the history
of the job:
We had 500 square feet of "Travertine Tile" installed in the entryway thru to the kitchen area of our "new" home back in May of 2002. The "1960-built" house is very well constructed: (*) Floor joists 1.5" thick (by) 11" wide (on) 16" centers (*) We have 3/4" of plywood with approximately 1/16" of the original sheet-type vinyl flooring still in place (*) The Installer then "nail-gunned" 1/4" backer board on top of the original vinyl (*) The 18" square Travertine Tiles were then laid diagonally in a "thin-set" bonding mortar About 2-3 months after it was finished, cracks appeared, 2 (to) 3 tiles in a row and in line with each other. There were five crack areas. Recently, the installer pulled up about 10 cracked tiles, which revealed the backer board. Sure enough, the cracks were in line with the seams of the backer board. More cracks are appearing and they too are along the seam lines of the backer board. He seemed to believe that the problem is a result of "deflection" or movement of the original flooring. He followed the manufacture's recommendations for installing the backerboard (using appx. 1 1/2" nails placed along markings appx. every 8-10 inches). I tend to believe that had the backer board been better fastened to the original floor, that perhaps this wouldn't have happened. I also wonder if the vinyl floor had been removed, perhaps there wouldn't have been movement/deflection along the seams of the backer board. Here are our questions: 1. Why did this happen? 2. What would professional installers suggest we do to cure the problems? We would appreciate any guidance/help
in this matter. Thanks sincerely. Joy Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joy: Have your contractor solve the problem; after all they made good money out of the deal! The situation you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 4601: I have a granite counter top in my kitchen to which I applied the"lemon juice" test and the result was excellent. The lemon juice was not absorbed at all. However, there is a "dark" area which has appeared around the sink, (Approx. 24' x 3") which is very noticeable. (The granite is a honey/grey color). I have no idea what has caused the stain and would really appreciate any advice as to how to remove it. Thank you. G.S. Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear G.S.: To answer your question I need to know if the sink is under-mount. Assuming that it is, then the material they used to glue the sink to the bottom of the slab has seeped through. If this is the case, it's terminal: nothing will ever remove that stain. The "lemon juice test" is performed on the polished side of the slab (which is way less absorbent than the rough side) to determine whether or not the mercantile granite at hand needs to be sealed with an impregnator-type product or not. No impregnator/sealer applied in the stone from its top surface - no matter how good a product -- could do anything to prevent staining from below. Only the I.Q. and expertise of the fabricator could! If the sink is a drop-in instead, there's hope. Have your fabricator solve the problem; after all they made good money out of the deal! The situation you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4600: I am quite dismayed - I purchased a St. Cecilia countertop 4 months ago, and already the little red spots are chipping away. Is there anything I can do to save my counter - I feel like there will be nothing left in a year! Eve, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eve: What did your fabricator tell you about that? Never mind, I don't wanna know!It could be one of two things (or, maybe, even a combo!): 1. The slab was a poor grade (maybe the fabricator got a "good deal" from the distributor). 2. The fabricator didn't give you the right intelligence about proper maintenance of your stone. What did they tell you to use, dish soap or glass cleaner?!! (See posting No. 4607 above.) There's nothing I can do for you from here. Have your fabricator tackle the problem; after all, they made good money out of the deal! What you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Should you (or your attorney) need additional technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out to be the cheapest way to get true help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4599: I will be remodeling my kitchen this year and would love to use granite for the countertops, but am getting somewhat discouraged. I have been reading the findstone website until my head is about to explode. I've talked to people in local home improvement stores and stone companies and have received so much conflicting information that I'm about at my wits' end. You allude many times online to advice and publications that you can provide for a small fee. Would you please let me know what this entails. I can't make any decisions until I feel that I'm properly informed, and certainly don't feel that way yet! Thanks, Katie, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Katie: It entails a "huge" $17 expenditure ($5 for this site to help them keep it up, and $12 for my publication. You will be told how to go about this). But that's just the beginning! In fact, I will also reveal you the "secret" to get your "big" $17 investment back! What more do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4597: I spilled a vinegar and water solution on a marble floor and it has been etched. How do I get the smooth shine back and what products do you recommend? A true novice, John, USA, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear John: If the etching is severe or too extensive (i.e.: all throughout the floor), you will need the (expensive!) services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor. If it's a small area and the etching is not too bad (it seldom is, with a solution of water and vinegar), then there are specific products that will enable you to do the job yourself. To find out more about this and / or to recognize a "doctor" from a "quack", should you need to hire a stone refinisher, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you won't be a novice anymore afterwards! What's more, I will reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! What more do you want from me?! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4596: Hello, First of all please explain to me the "lemon test". Thank you. Next, disaster struck last week when the fabricators for my kitchen counter cut the opening for the sink too large. The slab of granite I selected was the only one , Giallo Vyara, at this particular company. I know they are trying to find a similar piece to salvage what has been cut and does fit, but what are the odds of finding a piece to complete this project? I thought I would help by doing some of my own research as I truly like the slab I chose. Does this particular granite vary greatly in color and veining? What is the easiest way to try to find a similar slab? HELP!!!! Thank you, Kathryn, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kathryn: The odds to find a decent match are slim. Yes, this particular mercantile granite varies greatly in color and veining. There's no answer to your last question. Just let your fabricator deal with the problem; it's their job! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4595: We have one square of granite in our kitchen counter that is too light for the granite around it (it was replaced due to a crack). Is there any way a granite piece that is already set in place, though not yet grouted, be stained so that it "bleeds" into the granite pieces so they will match better at the edges? Lydia Hartsock Anacortes, WA, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lydia: Does your newly installed "granite" tile becomes darker if you let some water sit on it? If so, does this darker hue match the rest of the tiles to your satisfaction? I the answer to both question is, yes, then the application of a good-quality color enhancer should do the trick for you. If not, the answer to your question is, no. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4594: We're buying a "fixer upper" house that needs a complete kitchen and we're planning on using granite for the countertops. Since we're only in the planning stages, this seems like the best time to ask for your maintenance guide so we do it right from the beginning. Thank you, R brown, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear R. Brown: Smart decision, indeed, but, as I always say, maintenance begins before you choose the stone. What's more, a stone - any stone - is just as good as the operator who processes it! So what you need first is to learn how to shop right! I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" . Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 4592: I
am hoping you could help me and give me direction. I am looking
to buy granite slabs for my office. One will be for a conference
table and the second will be for two counters. I am looking for
a black granite. The color must be solid and some small color flecks
of a single color, gold, silver, etc. would be acceptable (like
the picture of the Black Galaxy). My problem is that last year I
purchased granite for my kitchen counters and, frankly, I was severely
ripped off. I bought what I was told was Juparana Gold. It is riddled
with holes and has a very inconsistent finish. The more I look at
other granites for my office, the more I realize I was scammed because
I paid 30% more than other slabs that are in far better condition
and far more "beautiful". I am determined not be defrauded
again. |
| R1: Dear Jeff: Sorry to hear about your residential problem with "granite". Let's not make it happen again! Black mercantile granites in general are among the best choices, including my very favorite, "Black Galaxy". (No pits in those!) But … Like in any other industry, there are lots of crooks out there! The "undisclosed" and "secret" grading of mercantile granites is not easy to detect; but there are ways. Furthermore, some black "granites" are "doctored" by the factory (not the fabricator) to make them "blacker" than they actually are! Finally, a material - any material - is just as good as the operator who processes it! Should you feel like using my assistance to safely sail through your new natural stone adventure, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll reveal you the "secret" to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 4591: I'd like to know what to use on small chips on the surface of granite 12x12 tile? Also if granite tile can be installed without grout lines? Thanks Jodi, Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jody: Answer to question No.1: NOTHING. The chips must be drilled deep first, or nothing will ever bond in them; second they have to be filled with and epoxy compound (not an easy stuff to handle); third, the surface of tiles has to honed and re-polished. Only a handful of professionals (I mean: ONE handful, not two!) all throughout the US can pull a stunt like that! Answer to second question: NO. You must leave at least a little gap (the thickness of a flat toothpick) for proper deep grouting. Caulking to match the color of the tiles is my favorite. Apply it, push it SERIOUSLY in with a putty knife, remove the worst of the excess with a wet sponge; then, when cure, use a razor blade to thoroughly clean any residue along the grout lines. It's stainless, shiny, just about forever and needs no sealing! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4590: Please provide the specific brand names of sealers for kitchen granite and the like countertops. also can they be purchased at lowes, home depot, etc.? clay....., Jan 25, Reply |
| R1: Dear Clay: What does this look like, a site where we free advertise various products from various producers who don't give hoot about your problems because are too busy "selling it"? Besides, there's no such an animal like the BEST sealer for ALL the various stones traded as granite. Many of them don't even need to be sealed! Specialty cleaning products for routine maintenance are more important than a sealer (although, when needed, impregnator/sealer are quite important indeed) and apply to ALL natural stones, not just a bunch! If you need specific assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I will tell you a way to get your money back! If you don't want to go through that, you can always count on the "free" advice of the "salesmen"! The only problem is that you won't find them in here. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4585: I
need advise quickly because the developer of the house i am buying
told me that the granite has already been ordered for the house i
am purchasing, however, if it hasn't been cut yet, i would be able
to choose another, which i really want I want to do because I do not
like their selection.
I only have two choices at the moment: Baltic Brown and Golden Leaf (I think that's how it's spelled). Which one is more stain resistant to oils etc, and also more durable with respect to scraches and chips? I've heard that the darker one (Baltic Brown) will be more stain resistant, but the lighter one will be harder and more scratch resistant??? Are those my choices? Also, does Baltic Brown have alot of green in it, or is it mostly dark tan and black, which is what I saw.??? Is the Golden Leaf mostly brown, tan tiny spots of black, or can it be very yellow?? Thanks for your advise. Robin K.
Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Robin: Wow, some intelligence to go by!! I hope they don't charge you for that! I have no comment about the possible colors in those two stones. Other than that, I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4583: We had beautiful granite countertops put into our "high end" kitchen in November. We have a large island that requires a fairly large piece of granite. We had "brazilian blue" granite installed. The piece on the island had 2 places on opposite sides with very long fissures(cracks). We can feel them. There are also chips (i guess that is what they are called) that were filled in and after cleaning the counter the fill has just come up leaving lovely chips. This is our first experience with granite...Is this normal or are we being the pain in the .....customer that wants a nice countertops for over $15,000 . We have a lot of tops....also there are spots where the stone is cracked alot underneath....is this normal as well???? Is this common in this style of granite or all?? Sam, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: R1: Dear Sam: For what you're reporting, it sounds to me like you've been taken for a royal ride! FYI allow me to list the stone industry standards about fabrication of granite kitchen countertops for you:1. Get a shingle, write "marble & granite" on it, and then hang it out of your door (the bigger the shingle, the better; color red is best!). 2. Get hold of some "salesman" and get as much education about stone as possible. That is: "This is marble because I say so, and this is granite because I say so again!" End of the education (It's enough, trust me!). 3. Buy some equipment with the money that you'll be borrowing from your brother-in-law and get started! You will learn as you go!! (Besides, you can always count on the free teaching of the "salesmen"!) 4. Learn by heart two key sentences: "It's a natural flaw (fissure) in the stone" and "What we did is within industry standards". (These are meant to keep your irate and 'picky' customers at bay for good! If for any chance they will dare asking you to show them the industry standards, you tell them that you'll get back to them on this one. After that, you add another shingle under the original one announcing: "Under new management", so if they come over and see you, you'll tell them that you just work there and the owner lives in Bermuda or somethin') 5. Make sure that the balance is paid in full to you BEFORE you actually install the countertop in the house of your customer. (Finding an excuse such as 'my truck broke down' or somethin', so that the check clears before you go to install is a must!)These, Sam, are the standards of the industry I'm ashamed to belong to when I hear stories like yours.Under the circumstances your best friend is you lawyer. The lack of standards won't help your case, but it won't help theirs, either! You have to keep in mind that a judge is a person, and I don't think that he or she would be a happy camper at the idea of having an expensive granite countertop all cracked and chipped in his or her own home! Personally, I would not give up. You have a beautiful home and you do NOT want a piece of crap like that as a kitchen countertop. If your lawyer's staff needs technical assistance, have them gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone,com. There's a little fee involved, as you'll be informed about. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelsit |
| Q 4582: I have been reading the "Find Stone" web page, and as usual nice guys finish last. So I will be more than Happy to pay for Good advice. I live in Las Vegas and you would think that with all the granite and marble in this city there would be some competent people? Anyway, here is my dilemma, I'm having 18x18 travertine floor put in-honed and filled. Someone, somewhere, when they filled it looks like it was overfilled, then packed into the pallets. Now there is a white haze and brown spots. Not on every piece but a lot of them. Any suggestions would be Great, also I plan on redoing the counter tops with granite. So if you can tell me anything as far as color. I cook a lot and even with proper sealing it sounds like some colors are better than others. Hope this wasn't too long. Thank You very much. Venesa Mascolino, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Vanesa Mascolino: Oh, they are competent all right! They are very competent "salesmen"!! :-)About the "granite" countertop is not that certain colors are better than others, it is rather than certain STONES are better than others!Anyway, I'll be glad to help you with all your issues. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me directly. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll teach you a way to get all your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4581: I just found this website after having a "Madura Gold" countertop nstalled in my kitchen last week. I was looking information on maintaining of the granite. I'm shocked to hear that "Madura Gold" is not considered granite. Does that mean my supplier used false advertising in selling it to me? Should I anticipate problems with my countertop. Needless to say, I'm a bit upset. Lynn, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: : Dear Lynn: Welcome to stone industry, where every stone that takes a polish but doesn't look like marble is labeled as granite! Is it a fraud? Big time, if you ask me! But unless you have a million dollar to spend to sue the whole industry, what are you gonna do?! :-) Just relax and try to get the most out of your stone! The majority of all the mercantile granites are enjoyable if care for properly. The fact the you're were surfing the web to seek advice on how to care about your "granite" tells me that you didn't get much intelligence about it from your fabricator, did you!Anyway, you came to the right place! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), and they do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4580: I just bought a house with limestone countertops -- probably 5 years old. I am looking for advice on caring for them. Thank you for any help you can provide. Lorrie, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lorrie: Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and I'll be glad to help you out by offering you my maintenance guidelines. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I will show you a way to have all of your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4579: I've told two more people. I'm in the market for a granite counter top for my kitchen. I've narrowed it down to two - Verde Dorado and Imperial Caffe. I'm looking for a good low absorption counter. Is either one of these a good choice? I want to minimize staining. Thanks Michelle, Canada, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Michelle: I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. I did write a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4578: Is Uba Tuba a Granite? We recently had this installed and were under the impression from the salesman this was a granite. We have a haze to it and it appears a round water mark from a glass. What should we do? Thanks. Julie, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Julie: Of course it is not granite! It's a "mercantile granite", but if you want to know the real "nature of the beast" it is Charnokite (as you can verify by consulting Dr. Daniel table), which, in my opinion, is a stone that, for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop, is better than true geological granite. It's (or, under the circumstances, better said, SHOULD be) very enjoyable and worry-free. Your problem has nothing to do with the nature of the stone (or perhaps it does, in a way … But that's another story!). I know exactly what it is, and I can tell you that the fabricator is the one that unknowingly created the problem (it's typical!). Since they made a nice piece of change out of you, I feel very strongly that they should be solving it. But, hey, it's just me! If for any chance it turns out that they can't, gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone,com. There going to be a little fee involved, as you will be instructed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4577: We had our kitchen cxounter tops done in black impala granite, we find if we put a wet glass for too long on it we end up with water ring stains. What is the best cleaner to use on granite. Thank you, James, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear James: Impala black is not supposed to behave like that and, in fact, it does not. It looks to me like your fabricator doesn't have the answer to your question. I do, but it has nothing to do with a cleaner. Most likely your fabricator unknowingly created the problem (it's typical!). Since they made a nice piece of change out of you, I feel very strongly that they should be solving it. But, hey, it's just me! If for any chance it turns out that they can't, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There going to be a little fee involved, as you will be instructed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4574: Do you know the Greek quarry name for the marble sold in america as "SPIDER"? It is off-white with little rusty veins. Thanks so much, CRG, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: The material you refer to is traded as Golden Spider. Burzin |
| Q 4573: Hi, I understand you sell some information about how to clean travertine floors in a shower. Ours were sealed 3 years ago when istalled, but they have become badly discolored on the shower floor and the stone cleaners (Stone Medic Soap and another one--Deep Cleaner) I have purchased do not cut it. So, please send information about what you can provide by way of advice and how much your materials cost.Carol, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Carol: I'd love to encourage you to use my products instead, but I would be just making an extra "sale" that I don't need (only "salesmen" do!). I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but I am afraid that you have water behind and under your travertine tiles, and the consequent migration of moisture through the core of the stone creates all sorts of damages that emerge on the surface as the "soil" that you can't clean with anything. Check your grout and caulk lines and you will see that some of either one (or both) are missing. (Where those tiles set "butt-joint"?)You had better get hold of a proven stone restoration contractor to assess your situation (probably for a fee), but I can anticipate to you that, in most cases, the only solution is to rip out the whole thing and start over. The silver-lining in the whole picture is that's only money! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4572: We are building a new home and want to do the master shower, floor, top of the tub and the countertop in marble. The installer called today and said I should look into Indonesia marble because it is water resistant and he will not have to use epoxy to install it. That would bring the cost of the installation down quite a bit? My questions what is the difference between Indonesia marble and the marble I had picked-Empress green. Thank you. Barb, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Barb: Your installer must know something that I don't! I have no idea about the mineralogy of the Indonesia marble you're mentioning (green, I take it); therefore I can't comment on your contractor's statement. The question is: where did he get his information and how reliable it is! Regardless, it's no longer necessary to use epoxy to set Empress green (here, now maybe I know something that you contractor doesn't!!). There are rapid setting stone adhesives (not glue, please!), such as the one carried by the Home Depot, by the Custom Builders company (Stone Setting Adhesive, or something like that) that works great, is much easier to use, and cost only marginally more than regular thin-set. I use it all the time to install greens.Joke aside, I am under the impression that you contractor does care about his job. Just make sure that they do NOT "butt-joint" the tiles on the walls and floor of the shower enclosure. Big installation failure ahead, if they did! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4571: I am wondering if Kinawa is a true granite since there seems to be confsuion about what people think they have purchased. The installer sealed it with impregnator 511 but it shows dark areas after anything wet sits for a few minutes. Does it need another coat: Judy, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Judy: Of course, it's not true geological granite! To find out what it is I suggest you to check it out in Dr. Daniel's table of 150 most popular "granites". That said, obviously the product is not the right one for that particular stone, or the contractor didn't apply it right (a product - any product - is just as good as the operator who uses it!). Your countertop will probably need several more applications. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4570: I have a costume that has a concern about pitting in her granite the material is black pearl from india . through the cutting process this material chipped at the edges more so than others . is there something i can explain to her regarding this issue Rob, Jan 22, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rob: You can try telling your customer that not all mercantile granites are the same and that many of them have natural pitting, etc., but I can anticipate to you that with some people is gonna be a hard-sell. This is an issue that should be tackled BEFORE the installation, at the time of the selection of the slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4568: I am using Giallo Cabaca granite for one of my countertops. Can you tell me what country it comes from? Thank you. MPD, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear MPD: I have no idea, but by the name it sounds Brazilian. Did you check Dr. Daniel's granite table to see if it's listed? Is there anything else that you would like to know about it? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4567: We have found some marble agglomerate we like and are considering it for our kitchen counters. Is this a good idea? Does it need to be sealed? Heidi, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Heidi: Nope, it is not! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4564: We have an absolute black granite countertop. In attempting to open a bottle of wine a friend slammed the tilted bottom of the bottle on to the top of the granite. This left a “white” “spot” (1/4”x 1/8”) where the granite was “crushed”. Do you have any suggestions…a penetrating sealer? Clear nailpolish? Pick out the crushed material? Do nothing? Thanks, David, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear David: Ouch! A penetrating sealer won't do squat (what the heck has it got to do with it?!). And neither will clear nail-polish. You can try using the tip of a permanent black magic marker. Make sure it's brand-new (filled with ink that is) and let the tip sit on the damaged area for several seconds to allow for maximum penetration of the black stuff. If that won't work and there is a little indentation, you can try to fill it with black nail-polish. If that still doesn't work, if you have a pair of brass ones, you can drill the damaged area using a fine diamond tipped bit on a "Dremmel" type rotary tool. Don't go too deep. Just enough to be able to fill the little hole with black silicon caulking. When it's almost dry, shave the filler with a razor blade to make it flush with the surface and clean the residue that may have smeared the immediate surrounding area. Of course, the best thing to do would be to drill and fill with black epoxy, but it is NOT, by far, a DIYer project. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4563: My question is this. Our house, built around 1888, has a sandstone foundation in the "rubble stone" style. The basement has concrete floor. The problem is the sandstone sheds sand onto the floor. Can you recommend a sealant for the sandstone that would stop the shedding? Thanks. David, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: David, Are you talking about a small but constant amount of sand, or areas of major sloughing off. If the second case, you need to get a restoration specialist to look at it as it could be a sign of significant deterioration within the stone itself. If it is the first case, the reason the stone is still in good shape after so many years is that the stone has been able to breathe, especially if the basement is below grade, and not get saturated with moisture wicking in from outside. Some of the sealers on the market today claim to be "breathable", but before putting anything on the stone, I would research the product extensively. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4562: We just recently installed a "absolute black" granite for a bar top and were told that we did not need to worry about a sealer right away. Anyway we have had the bar top for only two weeks and there are rings all over the bar just from where beer and soda cans were that we have tried removing with "Care Kit" for marble, granite etc. and nothing is working. We tried the lemon test and it does not absorb the liquid, but when removing the juice, it does leave a gray area where the juice was. Needless to say, these gray rings all over look awful and are driving us nuts trying to remove them. Also, should this have been sealed right away or not? Nord, Jan 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Nord: There are three possibilities: 1. They told you that they didn't seal it, but they did, and the impregnator/sealer that had no business being there is getting damaged by the acid (including the lemon).2. The slab of "black absolute" is in reality another black wannabe, which has been "doctored" by the factory (not your fabricator) to make it "blacker" (Very possibly Black Zimbabwe, which is a dark gray dolerite) and thus more sellable. If that's the case, the acid is eating away the black "shoe polish" that was applied onto it.3. It's one of those as rare-as-a-white-fly crappy black "granite" with a certain percentage of calcite in it that actually gets etched when hit by acids.Of course, the "Care kit" (that no true professional ever uses anyway) did some good only to its manufacturer and the outfit that sold it to you. Kits like that (which all too often don't work even at doing what they were originally designed for) are supposed to remove stains, not what you have, which are either surface damages (case No. 3), or damages to some chemical that was applied to the stone (case 1 and 2). Under the circumstances I lean toward the possibility No. 2. You will need a proven professional stone refinisher to assess the situation and try to equalize the whole surface of the stone, by working some oxalic acid wet onto it with a right-angle grinder (slow speed) And a white nylon pad on a 7" diameter holder. Who should be paying for that is a totally different story. One thing is for sure: Black Absolute does NOT do that if left alone (not sealed, that is). Also, if it's Zimbabwe, it will turn out to be what it really is: dark gray, not black. If you can live with that, then it's an extremely rugged and enjoyable stone. Do NOT have it sealed.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4560: I wish to ship Limestone floor paving slabs by sea container vessel on a journey lasting 4-5 weeks.What is the likelyhood of the product disintegrating on me because of its charachteristics ? Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: I wish I knew! You want to take your chances with limestone? It's your call, Pal! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Package it well, and make sure the crates are loaded into the container with enough blocking to keep them from moving around, and you should be ship shape so to speak. I shipped 3 forty foot containers of Texas limestone to Hawaii recently with out a single chip or crack. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R3: Package it well, and make sure the crates are loaded into the container with enough blocking to keep them from moving around, and you should be ship shape so to speak. I shipped 3 forty foot containers of Texas limestone to Hawaii recently with out a single chip or crack. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4559: I have a green onyx base (9" x 12") on which stands a bronze detailed statue of a Russian Officer on a horse and a onyx 2" ball. This unit was inherited from an Uncle. How does one go about polishing the surface of the onyx to remove surface scratches that have developed from handling over the past 60-70 years? I have tried both a rubbing compound and an extremely fine finish compound by 3-m (both work well on fibreglas gelcoat). Thankyou for your advice. Monte, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Monte: Stop fooling around with your onyx and hire a professional stone refinisher. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4558: I have a kitchen island with a marble Carrera top. The marble has gotten scratched from having a butcher's block placed on top of it. How can those scratches be removed? PAn, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Pan: If the surface of the stone has a hone-finish, they can be removed with metal-grade sandpaper (100, 200 and 400 grit), and then some good-quality honing powder should be rubbed in wet to blend in with the rest of the slab. If your marble is polished instead, then they can only be removed by hiring a proven professional stone refinisher. Now, you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4557: We recent had a marble top installed on a heavy metal table frame, we had the marble sealed by the installer as well, however, the installer advice us not to let any cirtus liquid sit on the top very long, such as lemon or orange juice etc, because it will stain it, well. we just noticed a ring stain left by a can of Sprite cold soda, that cold drink sat about 3 hours....do you have a remedy, is there something we can buy to apply on the ring and remove it any suggestions will appreciated... Raymends, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Reymends: It's not only citric acid that damage marble: every acid will do, including phosphoric, which is present in many sodas. Not only that, acids and many alkaline salts, too, don't need to sit long on the marble surface to etch it: a couple of seconds will do! The consequent surface damage is not a stain, of course, and it represents a small, yet full fledged restoration project. There are products on the market that homeowners can use to repair light to medium severity etchings. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'll be glad to point you on the right direction! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4555: I took the advice from an interior designer friend about installing French limestone in my 11,000 sq. ft. home. We supposedly got the stone from France through her. It is cream colored. We used an impregnator that cost an astronomical amount. Each piece was impregnated before installation. I was concerned about the discolored areas in the stone from the beginning. I was told by numerous people that it was from the quarry. I live in MS and the guy who installed all my stone, tile, was highly recommended in this area, however, I do not think he had any knowledge about limestone. I did research on it and knew that it should be impregnated lst. Did this. The finish is honed. They grouted the floor and supposedly cleaned the haze off. At this time, my designer friend was not around. We sealed the floor again. I came in one day and they were buffing the floor. I did not think they should have. The floor had swirl marks all over it. I did not like it, but wanted the house finished. This has been 2 years in doing. We moved in the end of July and since then the floor looks muddled and dirty all the time. I have used neutral cleaners and it is just progressively getting worse. My dog had accident and the floor was etched from this. He is a male and was marking. I used a pumice solution and buffed it out with the finest grade steel wool. It looked better but not great. The entire floor in house looks horrible to me. I thought with time and wear the swirl would fade, but it has gotten this dirty stained look. It definitely doesn't look honed and it is not shiny. I am in process of stripping with a stone product. I am resealing again. I am sitting here looking at my living room that we just completed 2nd coat on. I do not think it is going to improve my situation. Any suggestions. I am desperate, frustrated, and tired of spending money correcting what my ignorant installers did wrong or just did not want to help me find out the correct way to do it in the beginning. ANY ADVICE would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Lynn, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lynn: When we spoke on the phone a few days ago you didn't tell me that the tiles had been sealed BEFORE installation. That was the first BIG mistake! A stone floor should never be sealed before at least two weeks after installation (three it's even better!), to allow the setting material to dry properly. If the tiles are pre-sealed they will slow the drying process considerably by trapping the moisture in and - especially with limestone - possibly creating all sorts of problems, all too many of which, without a solution. About all the rest, I already told you what has to be done: that floor has to be heavily re-honed by a proven professional stone refinisher, using either diamond pads, or a good-quality honing powder (I personally lean toward the latter). The test that I had you made with the sand paper confirms that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4554: I need to know how to remove scratches from black marble tile in my living room floor! email me relevant information, Leta, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Leta: Hire a PROVEN professional stone refinisher.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4553: Could you please list the pros & cons of Honed Granite & Use & Care of Honed Granite. Thank You, Kerri, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kerri: Here's your list: Cons: IT'S A MAINTENANCE NIGHTMARE. Pros: None. Use and Care of honed granite: Don't ask me! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4552: We have purchased a 20mm granite benchtop and are having the basin hole cut on site and the bench installed on site. The basin cutout will leave 4cm at the back and 5cm at the front. The basin is a sit in, edge on granite. The bench top sits in an alcove and the installers will be putting noggings around 3 sides during the installation (I assume). We do not intend to have a vanity underneath and I am concerned that the slab has sufficient strength without additional support. Please help. Kay, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Since the cut-out was done on location, the narrows areas have not been rodded. 4cm and 5cm, huh … I would be EXTREMELY concerned, too! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4551: WE HAVE A TEXAS SHELL STONE FIREPLACE AND IT HAS SOOT ON IT..HOW CAN YOU CLEAN THIS STONE WITHOUT DESTROYING THE FOSSILS ? Josehp, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Joseph: 1. A solution of warm water and regular household bleach (2:1);2. A soft to medium-bristle brush;3. Lots of mashing (walls and floor);4. 200 Lbs. of patience and 300 Lbs. of elbow-grease!And keep your windows open! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Joseph, All those nasty little shells can catch a lot of dirt and
debris can't they. First use your vacuum and suck out as much loose
material as possible. Then using a mild Ph neutral soap (nothing acidic
please) and a brush with bristles stiff enough to get down into the
shells but not hard enough to scratch the stone, scrub away. Put some sort of drop cloth down to catch the mess. The addition of some hydrogen peroxide to the cleaning solution might help- the strong percentage solution sold at beauty supply stores, not the drug store variety. Finally address the cause of the soot and smoke deposits on your stone surround. That stuff is supposed to go up the chimney, not onto the face of the surround. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4550: I hired a company
in Florida U.S "Gasper Superior Flooring" to install Polished
Marble 12x12 tiles, to make along story short, the installer used
only mastic about 1/4 inch on the floor and the walls. The tiles on
the floor and walls area all uneven, so much that Gasper Superior
Flooring tried to sand them down (imagine the mess and the dust) and even removed 6 of tiles from the floor, replacing them with new ones that after installed with 1/4 inch of mastic! are also uneven and have now cracked. Could you be so kind as to inform me of the proper way to install marble tiles? In the past I had Saturnia Floors installed and the installer used a thick layer of mortar and the tiles stayed in place. The worse part is that this company did 2 bathrooms in my home and both of them look horrible, most tiles stick out and not one stayed in place, all of the tiles seemed to have slid, shift or stick out considerably.I would really appreciate your help. Thank you, Margely, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear Margerly: And "Michelangelo" strikes again!! (I hate to ask you this, but was this "Superior Flooring" the lowest bidder?…) Taking the contractor to court is the only solution, but it would probably turn out to be a waste of time and money: typically "Michelangelos" are always broke (being the lowest bidder doesn't make you any money!) and don't stay in business long. The good news about this ordeal is that, after all, it's only money! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Please could you check and let me know :- 1. whether the thickness of all the tiles is the same. 2. 1/4 inch thick mastic has been applied evenly. 3. The floor levelling is proper. Any of this could leave the floor looking messy, Ravi |
| R3: It sounds like the installer did not take the amount of time required to install natural stone, or did he use the correct adhesive. Also, the substrate should be as level as possible before the tiles are set to assure an even floor. There are cement products available to level an existing floor that is not level. Don't blame the tiles, blame the installer. D. Paul, |
| R4: As an installer of tile I found that thinset mortar mixed with laticrete vinyl polymer is the only safe way to install marble. Water in the the mix of thinset will stain the marble over time. Certain mastics for marble are available but it sounds like the installer didn't know what they were in for. Marble is very true and will show up any inconsistencies. Justin |
| R5: SO SORRY, START AGAIN FROM FRESH. TRY GETTING A LICENSE CONTRACTOR INSTEAD OF THE SHOE MAKER THAT IS HERE ON A MONTHLY VISA. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Petrabiz |
| R6: The best way to get compliance from contractors is to stagger payments so that a large amount of money depends on your satisfaction at the end of the job. Normally a wet bed must be thick enough so that all tiles can be leveled to the highest point on the floor. Richard |
| Q 4549: I bought a new
home with a green/black granite countertop in the kitchen. I have
read this very useful website about stains but Im not sure how to
apply it to my situation. Over the last few months I've noticed that
there is one section of countertop that looks like it needs to be
buffed. It's not noticeable when you look straight at it, but when
looking at reflection from the light on the counter it's obvious.
It is the entire portion of one piece of slab to the right side of some grout that attaches two slabs together. The 'dullness' extends about one foot to the right of the grout, and one foot up the counter, but has a discrete margin along the grout line -- i.e. it does not appear to be a 'stain' from a spill per se - but rather a dullness that encompasses one portion of the slab and doesnt cross over to the next slab. Does that make sense? Anyway I tried just 'buffing' with a rag, and i'm wondering if I should try a chemical agent or attempt one of the poultice remedies you've described? George, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1: Dear George: Of course it's not a stain! It's hard to make a diagnosis from what you're reporting, but if I have to guess I'd say that when they originally installed the countertop, one of the parts at the seam was a little higher than the other. It could just be that at this point some "Michelangelo" come over and ground the higher spot to match the lower one, but was unable to re-polish the treated area to factory specs to blend in with the rest. No magic chemical in a bottle will do the trick for you. It is not, by far a DIY project. I can anticipate you that you will have a very hard time finding a pro that will be able to rectify the situation! A professional stone refinisher, however, is the only way to go. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4546: I have been going to all of the fabricators in my are to look at granite for my home. Many of the fabricators have different names for what appears to be the same color of granite and most of the fabricators have told me that their granite comes from Brazil. Is there a book or list that can tell me all of the different names for Brazilian granite and if any colors cross with other names for the same granite. Derek, Jan 13, Reply |
| R1:Dear Dereck: It looks to me like all the fabricators in your area are partial to Brazilian stone! Mercantile granites come from all over the world, not just from Brazil. As far as your "list or book" is concerned, I suggest you to look at the list prepared by Dr. Daniel and cross reference it with the library available in this site. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4545: We have selected a granite our stone supplier refers to as "Sapphire blue" for our kitchen. Our contractor told us that that is the same stone as "sapphire brown," which he is telling us to get from a different supplier. Finally, your site shows a stone called "saffaire blue" that looks a lot like what we picked. Are all these stones the same, and are they a good choice for our kitchen counters? Will it need to be sealed frequently? Thank you very much. Nate, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Nate: I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 4544: We had New Venetian Gold installed as our kitchen countertops. What are your thoughts as a countertop? We already have oil stains which I am going to try to remove with the acetone procedure as listed on your website. What do you suggest for sealing this stone and how often? Allan, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Allan: And what happened to your fabricator? Why didn't they seal it? … Never mind. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll have to pay a little fee to get connected, but there will be no charge from my side in this case. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4542: Can you give me tips on selecting a good marble from a vendor and the points that I have to keep ion mind? I would probably like to choose a Statuary Vein or a Carrara variety: regards, Prasad, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Prasad: Tip #1: Deal with a reputable stone retailer. Tip # 2: . Get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4541: I am a do-it-yourself remodeler and I am thinking about putting down a marble floor in my foyer, dining room and kitchen...I am currently researching the pros and cons and would like your input in purchasing the correct type of marble for my needs...please supply me with some input...thank you, Pamer, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Pamer: Here's my input: 1. Do NOT put polished marble in the kitchen. 2. Get a pro to do the job. 3. Get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4540: I really, really, really screwed up. I thought I was putting granite tile on my kitchen countertop but it turned out to be marble. I've read all about having etched marks polished out but how can they be prevented? Isn't there something I can apply that coats the marble and doesn't let acid permeate and etch the finish? There's got to be! I can't have a kitchen countertop that has to be protected from every little spill. What would you do? Please help me. Nancy, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Nancy: Whoever will be able to invent what you think "there's got to be", will become a billionaire over night! Sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4539: I came across
your name while trying to find info on the internate related to my
problem. 3 days ago we had a granite countertop installed as part of our kitchen remodeling. Before leaving, the installers sealed it and told me it needed to dry before I could touch it. After it was dry (and I was cleaning and admiring the granite) I noticed a crack in the in the area where the undermounted sink is located. It is the area between the sink and the edge of the counter (about 4-5 inches wide). I can see it and feel it with my hand and finger-nail. I can feel the crack on the 3 exposed sides of the granite, (the sink side, the top, and the side facing out). When I called the company that did the installation they tried to tell me this was a "fissure" and a "natural" occurance of granite. I wasn't buying that explanation and when I told them it's starting to chip near the crack there was an audible moan on their part. They said they might be able to fill it but that someone would be out to make a determination about it's replacement. Q - Is it "normal" for these types of cracks to occur? If I can see and feel the crack on 3 sides could it be cracked completely through? Will the crack get worse over time? At he moment I'm planning on holding payment for the completion of the remodeling until the granite is replaced. Is this an unreasonable position for me to take? naddeo, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Naddeo: See my answer to the posting No. 4534 below. It fits your case like a glove! In your case the good news is that your fabricator didn't follow the industry "standard" # 5!! You should print out that answer of mine and show it to your fabricator's face. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4536: We are buying another home and will be putting in a new kitchen. I have narrowed down my granite choices to Marron Castor, Black GaLaxy, and Cafe imperial. Can you tell me anything about these stones and if I should be aware of their characteristics? Mike, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mike: No matter how you slice it, it all boils down to the expertise, pride and business ethics of the fabricator you'll be dealing with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4535: We are currently building our dream kitchen and have installed a hydronic radiant heat floor (poured lightweight aggregate) We like the look of the honed and filled travertine tiles. Is this type of tile a good choice for this application? I believe the floor temperature will not exceed 80 to 85 degrees. There is a vapor barrier along with ridgid polystyrene insulation installed below the poured concrete. I have been reading that the Italian or Turkish tiles are the best to use as far as density goes is this true? Thank you, Jim, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jim: Answer to question 1: Yes it's a good choice indeed. Answer to question 2: No, it's not true. Both Italian and Turkish travertine are in fact quite dense and an excellent choice, but so are other travertine, including the one coming from New Mexico. It's little known, beautiful and an excellent stone (I just love it!). Furthermore, I have heard in more than one occasion by reliable sources that the New Mexico Travertine company's people are a charm to do business with. Lots of darn good travertine in this country!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4534: My husband and I had our new home built for us by a nationally known luxury home builder. We decided to upgrade our kitchen countertop to granite. After moving in we noticed that there was a crack in the countertop infron the sink to the left. We noted that to the builder, who sent someone to fix it with glue. It did not hold the crack appeared again. We further investigated the crack and realized that it had extended to the back of the sink and was also glued. The granite was cracked even before it was installed. The builder sent someone else to fix it and I refused to have them glue it again. Then they sent a rep who suggested that because ther is an existing seam at the front of the sink which is about a foot and a half away from the crack they arte going to cut that peice of granite of and find a peice to fill in that space. It that fair. we paid close to $10,000 for the countertops, we just want the builder to replace it. They recently sent a letter stating that they cannot replace it. Mayma , Jan 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mayma: I really don't know how to put it
down for you. It's not good.For starters, large luxury home builders
are typically the cheapest skate on earth. They are there to maximize
their profit first, therefore the lowest bidder is the one who gets
the job, no exception.Second, The narrow areas in the front and the
back of the sink should have not be seamed to begin with, and should
have been reinforced with a steel rod inserted into the stone. The
crack is the consequence of that. A "plug" to "repair"
the crack is not acceptable at all.Sop, now, why is it not good?Because
the "should haves" I just listed are my personal standards.
They are also the standard of any fabricator who know what they are
doing and take at least one once of pride on what they're doing. The
bad news is that they are not the industry's standards. Let me list
the stone industry standards about fabrication of granite kitchen
countertops for you:1. Get a shingle, write "marble & granite"
on it, and then hang it out of your door (the bigger the shingle,
the better; color red is best!). 2. Get hold of some "salesman"
and get as much education about stone as possible. That is: "This
is marble because I say so, and this is granite because I say so again!"
End of the education (It's enough, trust me!). 3. Buy some equipment
with the money that you'll be borrowing from your brother-in-law and
get started! You will learn as you go!! (Besides, you can always count
on the free teaching of the "salesmen"!) 4. Learn by heart
two key sentences: "It's a natural flaw (fissure) in the stone"
and "What we did is within industry standards". (These are
meant to keep your irate and 'picky' customers at bay for good! If
for any chance they will dare asking you to show them the industry
standards, you tell them that you'll get back to them on this one.
After that, you add another shingle under the original one announcing:
"Under new management", so if they come over and see you,
you'll tell them that you just work there and the owner lives in Bermuda
or somethin') 5. Make sure that the balance is paid in full to you
BEFORE you actually install the countertop in the house of your customer.
(Finding an excuse such as 'my truck broke down' or somethin', so
that the check clears before you go to install is a must!)These, my
dear Mayma, are the standards of the industry I'm ashamed to belong
to when I hear stories like yours.Under the circumstances your best
friend is you lawyer. The lack of standards won't help your case,
but it won't help theirs, either! You have to keep in mind that a
judge is a person, and I don't think that he or she would be a happy
camper at the idea of having an expensive granite countertop all patched
up in his or her own home! Personally, I would not give up. You have
a beautiful home and you do NOT want a piece of crap like that as
a kitchen countertop. If your lawyer's staff needs technical assistance,
have them gimme a holler at: Maurizio@findstone,com. There's a little
fee involved, as you'll be informed about. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4533: I need information on how to install a 5 piece granite fireplace...where can I purchase such advise and instruction? Michael, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: While you are at it also try to obtain instructions on how to install a 6-piece, 7-piece, and 10-piece granite fireplace because there is a distinct likelihood that you will need those instructions if you choose and install the wrong granite. (Dr. Hans) |
| Q 4532: We are having a house built and need to decide between corian and granite. What are the pros and cons of each? I am leaning toward the granite and after some research, I find myself confused. What should I look for when choosing granite: honed or polished? 2 cm or 3 cm? light or dark colors? We have two kids (5yr and 2 yr) and we will definitely use the kitchen.... Thanks, Lori , Jan 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: Choosing between natural stone and
a plastic material that scratches like crazy and cost just about the
same … Mmm … tough choice!! :-)On the other hand, I can't
blame you at being concerned about venturing yourself into a "natural
stone adventure" without any specific education (plastic is uniform
and, therefore, much more predictable!). Personally, I would stay
away from honed granite (polished is much easier to maintain). About
the 2 cm. Vs. the 3 cm. Issue, they are both good choices, though
I personally prefer 2 cm. laminated. But then again, it's only my
personal preference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4530: We
have bought a house recently with a very nice fireplace, unfortunately,
the previous owners decided to paint the granite lintel maroon ! How
gross is that, we have been trying with paint remover and a wire brush
to get it off, and a rough sander but it is taking forever to do the
granite is very rough and pitted,and the paint deposits are resting
in the pitts and won't come off. We were wondering about using an angle grinder to take the surface off and smooth it down a bit but are not sure which type of machine to use. we live in britain so need to know what to use that can be obtained here. Kevin, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kevin: Just because you have stone underneath, it doesn't make me an expert at removing paint. Have you consulted with a professional painter? I would very definitely discard your idea of "sanding down" the stone surface. Too hard, too complicated, too messy, too expensive (the equipment and the material necessary) and with dubious results at best. It would be cheaper (and safer!!) to have the whole fireplace replaced, and without the aggravation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4528:Our Uba Tuba
countertops were installed 4 months ago. We were surprised how much
darker the intalled stone appears versus the sample and the slab we
picked at the fabricators. We had anticipated a greenish gold look,
but it looks more black than green. As a result it shows every spot
and smudge. Is this typical with Uba Tuba? The bigger issue is the numerous number of surface pits. The pits seem to be concentrated in the lighter "quartz" areas and seem to be increasing in number over time. I can run a finger nail over the surface and easily feel them. Are we the victims of a shoddy fabricating job? We purchased the countertops through the design division of the largest home center store in the country. Any advice would be appreciated. Jay, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jay: You're darn lucky! Yes, of course, going by your report
you've been the victim of a shoddy fabricating job. Very definitely
a low grade slab, it appears. It's not even about the variation of
color; it's the pitting that you don't have to accept. There are no
pits in the sample at the showroom, are there! So, why are you so
lucky?Because the Big Boxes have the best customer service in the
entire world, that's why! You insist and stand your ground and they
will have the whole thing replaced for you at no extra charge, or
the full amount that you paid refunded. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4527: I have a "marble" countertop in my bathroom. Well, of course it's not really marble - what is the name of it when it just looks like marble? The sink is all part of the countertop and has spider-webby cracks in it. My question is - is there any way I can sand and refinish this surface to get rid of the cracked look? Helen Banman, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Helen: It's called "cultured marble" and it's plastic. Just because they used the word "marble" it doesn't make it a material to be inquired about in a stone site like this one. Sorry, I've seen it several times, but I don't know the first thing about it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4526: I am having a
house built, and the marble fireplace hearth has a crack at the back
of the hearth extending from the wall to about 5 inches into the finished
marble hearth which I can feel with my fingernail. The hearth is 18
inches by 82 inches. The marble hearth is in front of a manufactured fireplace, and the firebox is about 6 inches above the level of the hearth. The marble hearth is cemented to a 3/4 inch plywood subfloor. The marble fabricator pointed out the fact that the marble slab had a crack, but insisted that the crack did not extend into the area of the slab from which the hearth was to be cut. The contractor contends that marble hearth is cemented in place and will not crack further. I am concerned that with heating and cooling and changes in humidity in the plywood subfloor that the marble hearth will crack further. Replacement now while the house is under construction would be much less expensive than after the house is complete. Jack, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jack: Personally I wouldn't take chances and insist in the replacement now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4525: I've been shopping
for "granite" for my kitchen countertops and am having a
great deal of trouble getting the information I need to make an 'informed'
decision. Is Emerald Pearl a true granite, and does it need to be
sealed at installation and resealed annually? Also, what about New
Uba Tuba -- does it need to be sealed? My other choice is Santa Cecilia.
Is this a true granite? I have read that the light colors are harder (than darker ones) but are more porous and crack more easily. I'm very careful in my kitchen and wipe up spills immediately, but others are not always so careful. Is granite a good choice around a cooktop where it may get grease spatters? Thanks for your expert opinion. Mae, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mae: None of the stones you named are true geological granite, but, in my opinion, the first two are better than granite, while the third one is slightly worse. Well, it could be just as good, but there are big variations in the (undisclosed) grading of this particular stone, and the chances of getting an inferior slab are greater than with other materials. Not matter which material, ultimately it all boils down to the reputation and business ethics of the fabricator you will be dealing with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4524: Do you have any suggestions for removing rust from my parents' headstone? Before my mother drown last year, she kept the saddle-type flowers on the headstone and the rubber part came off and rust got even down the front of the stone. They are both gone now and I do flowers but would like to get their headstone looking nice again. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Hazel, Jan 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear Hazel: You could try removing the rust out using a poultice with a product called "Iron Out" (available at many hardware stores) mixed with an equal amount of baby powder and water to form a paste of the consistency of peanut butter. You may want to try several times, but I hate to tell you that your chances of success are very slim. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4517: I am redoing
a bathroom that is entirely (floors, walls and ceiling) 12x12 heavily
veined marble or granite (unsure), the surface is so porus that the
soap scum cannot be removed anymore, and the tiles are starting to
loosen and fall off the wall in 2 pieces, a front layer and back layer
(wierd) Regardless I am replacing the entire shower / tub enclosure with 12x12 Absolute Black tiles. I have these same tiles in 16x16 slabs on my kitchen floor and they are still as shiny as the day I bought the house 7 years ago, so I am assuming I will not have a soap scum or porus problem as before do you recommend sealing the tiles, grout or both? Do you forsee any other issues with this tile for this kind of harsh environment? Second Question: Upon removing the old tiles, the underneath layment is mason board and the old tiles were attached with what looks to be globs of some kind of thick cement or mortar. I plan to put up all new mason board for ease of installation so I dont have to break the cement globs up, (can you believe the tiles are this easy to remove from the cement) What is the suggested way of installing the tiles in the tub / shower on the walls and ceiling as well as the rest of the bathroom that is somewhat dryer, where should I use mortar thinset or adhesive?) Third and final question: I will also be doing the floor, it is level, can I simply lay the 12x12 tile over the existing 12x12 tile floor? This would be so easy if you say yes and what would be the adhesive to use here if it can be done.I thank you for your time and responses to these questions that would really help me as a do-it yourselfer. Best Regards, Blake, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Blake: Wow, man! The existing tiles "are so porous that the soap scum cannot be removed anymore, and the tiles are starting to loosen and fall off the wall in 2 pieces, a front layer and back layer (weird)" It's not weird at all to me, but, just out of curiosity, what (or who) made you reach the "brilliant" conclusion of the excessive porosity of the stone and the soap scum thing?! There must be lots of water behind those marble tiles (it's not "granite", I promise) and for a long, long, looong time! The "soap scum" is actually efflorescence, and the fact that they fall off in layers can only mean that they are "spalled" (rotten) through and through, because of the continuous migration of moisture from behind the tiles onto their surface through their core! There's nothing weird about that! What's weird is the fact that you never noticed before! You do an installation like that (whatever "technique" it was used), and you can set granite, ceramic, porcelain, or even solid diamond for that matter, and you will have the same problem over again.As far as advice on how to set your new tiles, there are books about it. Or, you can gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4516: Hi, Your site has answered a lot of questions, however not to many about grout. My question is, do I need to seal my grout? If so, with what and also how do I do it? My tile installer said that neither the tile(cedir porcelain) nor the grout needed sealing. I have tried your lemon juice test on my tile and it just sits there in a pool, so I'm guesing it doesn't need sealing. However, I'm just not to sure about the grout. Also what does sealing really do? Does it keep dirt from getting in the grout? My tile is in the entryway and the bathrooms. I am quite a neat freak so nothing has a chance to stay dirty for very long. So far all that I have washed my tile with is just plain hot water. This tile was laid about two weeks ago. Also could you tell me if it is normal for the grout to have a faint crack line right where it butts up to the tile? I have this on a few of the tiles and am wondering what could have caused this and if I should be repaired? I would really appreciate any information you could give me. Emily, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Emily: You already found out the answer about the sealing of the porcelain tiles. As far as the grout is concerned, applying an impregnator sealer in them will only prevent deep staining, not surface soiling. So the question is: "What kind of chances do I have to spill staining liquids in my entryway and bathrooms?" The answer to that will tell you how much you need to seal your grout. Now about the cleaning issue. If you are, like you say, a "neat freak", you should know that water alone doesn't cut it! Use a little bit of "Mr. Clean" or "Spick 'n' Span" with your water!Finally, about the tiny cracks in the grout, address the problem with your setter. It should not become any worse, but … you never know! Like they say, better safe than sorry! At least they will know that you spotted a potential problem now, not a couple of years from now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4515: I am covering the center part of a dining table with green marble, surrounded by ceramic tiles and stained glass. I have a 2-part epoxy which says it can be used both to set and grout the marble. The 1/2 gallon is much more than I need and was pretty expensive. Is there a way I can divide the Parts A and B so that I can use some in 2-3 days for grouting? Or is there something else I can use for grouting? I will seal the tiles before applying to the tabletop, Rebekah Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rebekah: Are you seriously considering doing that type of installation (with epoxy, that is) yourself? Nasty stuff to handle, I'll tell ya! I sure hope you know what you're doing! Anyway, it's your project! Why do you want to grout after a couple of days? Since you're setting in epoxy you can grout right way with no problem. Epoxy doesn't need air to cure! There's no need to apply an impregnator in the tiles before their installation. Being that you're setting them on epoxy it makes no difference. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4514: We are Lloyd
and Julia Semmens. We live in Long Island NY. We recently purchased and just had installed (yesterday) a granite we absolutely love. It is, we think stunning! However NOW, after reading pages of your responses to other people's nightmares, I'm afraid to put anything on this stone, or touch it or clean it with anything because what I thought was granite, I now realize may not, in fact be granite but rather something that may either be inferior, or if I'm very lucky, superior to granite! The Stone is called "Maron Fantasy." We were told that it was a new color that is just now coming to them; and it comes from Brazil. Someone else on your site described another stone called "Marrone Castor" which, by their description sounds very similar to ours. Our stone is predominantly a "burnt sienna" in color, with black areas (I don't want to call it "veining" as it isn't like veins or lines of black but more like black areas interspersed throughout (although there is some lines or veins); and, also has some white stone in it that I will describe as looking like white quartz. a) Should it have been sealed? - it -was by the fabricator on Jan 3rd, 2003 (They did a stunning job." it's gorgeous). It is polished! b) What cleaner should be used on it? c) What substances (i.e. acids, oils, other liquids) should be kept away from it? Etc. Anything you can tell me about this particular stone, as soon as possible would be immensely appreciated. Llyod, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Julia and Lloyd (Hey, I'm Italian: ladies first!): I never dealt with that particular stone, but I believe (I'm not positive, though) that I've seen it at a recent stone convention in Baltimore, MD. By the way, it's never a "new color": it's a new stone all the time! A "new color" applies to a paint, a fabric die, or manmade materials, not stone! Anyway, if it is what I believe it is (taking it from your description), I can tell you it's not a true granite (don't ask me what it is!), but I have the feeling - by the look of it - that's just about bullet-proof! Even assuming that your stone and the one I saw are the same, you must understand that my feeling is … well, just a feeling, though an educated one. In other words, since I didn't have the opportunity to run any test on a sample of it, I can't tell you for sure whether or not it needs to be sealed. But it doesn't matter now, does it! Try to spill some water on your top and let it sit there for several minutes. After that, wipe it dry and observe if the area where the water's been sitting on has become darker than the rest. If it does, then your stone needs additional sealing; if not, you're done!Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4513: We have a new home with a brown, gold colored granite. We have sealed it twice and still notice that when water sits on the countertops it leaves rings where it was. We have a couple of oil stains and are trying to find a way to get them out. Can you offer advice on how to remove stains as well as preventing them from reappearing. Ms, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ms: Yes, sure. But, just out of curiosity, what did your fabricator tell you about it? … Never mind! As far as the impregnator/sealer you've been using goes, it's either not the right type for that particular stone, or you may have to apply it several more times before your stone is sealed. But you MUST remove those oily stains first!When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4512:Thank you for providing such a great list and reference. I'm doing some research for a color known at least locally as Giallo Ornamental. Do you know if there is a more "proper" name for this color stone? Can you provide and information links for this stone? Mike, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mike: No I don't know of any other "proper" name. That's it. Did you check Dr. Daniel table of 150 granites to see if it's there? What is exactly that you want to know about it? Is it just a research or does it have a practical scope? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Maurizio, sorry for the vague information I provided. I did check the Dr. Daniel guide...no match. The application is kitchen countertops. I would like to know some of the general properties and mineral type of this stone, and what type of performance to expect. I've learned from reading through this site that not all slabs are the same and there are certain colors to avoid. St. Cecilia seems to be a popular color selection but one that should be given extra attention while others may require minimal sealing. Will this stone color generally be considered to have a high or low absorbency rate? Will it stain easily? (I do plan to complete the lemon juice test) Are there any obvious shortcomings of this particular stone in a kitchen application? Could this be considered a good or poor choice for countertops? |
| Q 4511: The edges in some areas of our granite countertops seem to have lost the original shine. The tops have maintained the original appearance. Is there something we can do to the edges to remove the dull contrast with the tops? Thank You, Pat G. Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Pat: It shouldn't have happened. I don't know for sure, of course, but I have the funny feeling that those edges had been "finished" with some sort of shoe polish or somethin', to cover up the lack of professional ability to actually polish them. Over time, as you use your countertop, the edges that are prone to be hit and rubbed the most will lose the wax and … voila, no more shine!The ideal would be to get hold of the fabricator, but … unless they learned how in the meantime, if they weren't able to actually polish your edges back then, I doubt highly that they will able to polish them now. But at least they should be able to apply some more shoe polish or somethin', if that was the case! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4510: It is there such a material as "river stone"? or is river stone the umbrella that has limestone, granite, marble etc. under it? Goldie, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Goldie, Yes river stone, or river rock is a generic term to describe stone deposited by rivers. The stone is smooth and rounded, and can range in size from small pebbles to large boulders. The stone itself can be most anything, depending on the type of rock the river is running through, but most often,the larger sizes of river rock used for building are one of the harder, granite type rocks. Although not always the case, softer stones such as limestone or sandstone tend to disintegrate under the tumbling and pounding action necessary to create the river rock form. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4508: I recently had a marble floor of Carrera white in 12x12 tiles installed in my kitchen. Unfortunatley, there is a crack that is traveling through four tiles. I have had the installer come and look but states this has not happened to him that possibly the house has had some movement during our recent rains. We looked under the house to see if the support was bad under that specific area however, there seems to be very good support with a large beam running under that part of my kitchen floor. I consulted with another tile installer company and they explained that at times when the cement has not fully dried the expansion/contraction can cause marble tile to crack. When suggesting this to my tile installer he stated he uses a "dry cement" so this would never happen. However, he has agreed to replace the tile but has suggested to have someone go under the house and look at placing better support. I do not want to invest in more support if this is not the problem. Also, if it merely was the case of the cement not drying properly would replacing the tile be the proper thing to do or must the whole floor be redone. Please help? By the way, I had all new appliances installed and were not present when the floor was installed. Regard, MB, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear MB (are you me?! …) Well, a lot of issues involved here! First of all, I want to hope that those tiles are NOT polished, but hone-finished. Unless, of course, you don't plan to use your kitchen as … well, a kitchen! That said, to try determining what actually happened, one ought to know what kind of sub-floor you had and what was done on top of it, before installing the marble tiles. How flexible was the sub-floor? Were the tiles set on mud, or cement-board over plywood, or thin-set over a wire lathe? Or -- the gods forbid -- just thin-set over plywood? (I've seen plenty of "good" stuff like that!)That said, if the problem is four tiles only, it could be a local deficiency of sorts and, once replaced, they may not crack again. But then again … It's virtually endless! One thing is for sure: I don't buy the recent rain thing, and I have some serious problem believing at the lack of support. If the latter were the case, you'd have many more cracked tiles than only four! Besides, verifying if there's sufficient support BEFORE starting the installation is part of the job in my book!Let's just hope for the best. (Including the polish-finish thing!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4507: We had a limestone bench installed in our shower. It is a light beige stone, rectangular in shape, with a bull-nose edge. After installation, I noticed what looks like a crack running from the back edge of the stone to the front, down around the bull-nose and underneath. It runs unevenly at about a 45 degree angle in the middle of the stone, and literally looks like someone took a pencil and drew a thin line on the stone. There is nothing else on the slab which looks like this and, while there is no particular pattern to the coloring of the stone, this line is definitely not a variation of the surface color of the stone. When I asked the company which selected and installed the slab about this, they told me it was a "vein", a natural part of the stone, and not a crack. Ironically, this slab was installed to replace the existing shower bench which had cracked all the way through after only 2 years. What are the visual characteristics of such a "vein" as opposed to a crack, and how do I tell the difference? Is a "vein" something which won't ever result in a crack? Thanks very much. Sorin, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Sorin: How can one tell a crack from a veining? … I really don't know if there's an answer to that question that fits all situations. I mean, a crack's a crack. How can one possibly take it for a natural vein?! A crack can be felt, even if only with one's fingernails. Most of the times a veining does not, because it's perfectly flush with the rest of the stone surface. If it's a veining, in the vast majority of instances, it does not represent a weak point in the stone that could be considered prone to cracking. That's all I can tell you, my friend. I mean, if I could see it I'd be able to tell within three tenth of a sec. Describing it? … It's a totally different story. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Sorin, The line you are describing is most
likely what we in the limestone fabrication business call a dry. These
are very common in limestone,(and most other types of stone I would
imagine), as they are caused by the forces of nature during the millions
upon millions of years between the deposition of the sediment that
eventually made the stone to the time the quarry block was cut out
of the ground. In fact, they are so common in our local limestone,
that quarry blocks are not graded on the quality of the stone, but
on the number of drys in the block. Open drys are a weak point in the stone, and the slab can fail along one. A closed dry on the other hand can be even stronger than the stone itself. A dry is closed if it has been filled with a secondary mineral deposit naturally, or I suppose with a penetrating type epoxy. As for your particular situation, can you see or feel any separation when you drag a fingernail across the line? Tap along the surface of the stone from one end to the other (you can do this with your knuckle) and listen for sound variations. If it is a weak spot, you will definitely hear the tone change from a solid ring to a dead thud as you cross that area. Usually the blue/gray pencil line look indicates a closed dry, but do the sound test, and if it does sound suspicious, have your fabricator replace it. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4506: I recently purchased some Granite that was prefabricated in China for use on my kitchen counter. Since installation about a month ago, I have repeatedly attempted to seal with a water base sealer. However, it seems regardless of how many times I attempt to seal the counter, water still will penetrate as will any oil product. The water mark evaporates quickly, but the oil is leaving some residual marks. What would recommend that I clean the granite with to remove the oil marks, if even possible, and is there a product that you would recommend that I use to better seal these counters with? I realize that the granite from China is most likely more porous than other granites, but I would obviously like to do my best to protect this stone. Steve, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Steve: Mother Nature did not invent Geography and doesn't know the difference between China and Paraguay! Just because a certain "granite" comes from China doesn't mean that it's prone to be more absorbent than a "granite" coming from Brazil or somethin'! Only the gods on Mount Olympus know what the heck of a geological stone you actually bought under the universal label of "granite"! But then again, it has absolutely nothing to do with the fact that it comes from the land of China. That said, It appears to me that you've got the wrong impregnator/sealer and something should be done about that, because, I promise, you're never gonna get a different result by doing the same thing over and over again! I do believe I have the solution to your problem. get in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4505: My husband and I are getting ready to have new kitchen countertops installed. We are replacing tile counter tops due to the difficulty with keeping the grout clean. I believe are installer did not seal our grout when first installed. Any how we are planning on either granite or this newer product which is manmade from about 93% quartz. Which is more practical for a fast paced life style? We also have kids, and would like something easy to manage but still nice looking? We do not have a lot of money to spend either. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you VG, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear VG: The manmade material you're talking about is called, "engineered stone" and it's made of approximately 93 to 96% granite chips (not necessarily quartz) bonded by an epoxy resin. To the best of my knowledge is not much cheaper than the "real deal" (if any!), but it has a reputation to be easier to maintain. Is such reputation deserved? Yes and no. Yes, it is indeed a very easy-to-maintain product, but the "real deal" could be just as easy, too. The difference is that each and every "type" (which, basically, is differentiated only by the die they used to color it) of engineered stone is always the same. In other words, no (unpleasant) surprises. On the other hand, the definition of mercantile granite covers a huge spectrum of geologically different stones, some of which could represent a serious maintenance problem when sold by fabricators that don't know the difference between one "granite" and the next. (All too many of those - though a minority - out there, I'm sorry to report!)Personally, I would not give up the unmatched beauty of natural stone (you must admit it, engineered stone does look phony. And at that price! …), but you will have to do a little homework - no big deal, I assure you - to make sure that you won't become … another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4504: I have heard of a new granite product becomming popular in the US. It is a manufactured granite slab 5X10 and 1/4" thick. What do you know of this product? Apparently, the concept is to apply this directly over an existing serface and do a re-face of the counter top. Thanks, Larry, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Larry: I really don't know much about it, but, for what is worth it, this is what I do know. It's a very thin slice of actual "granite" solidly bonded to a sheet of fiberglass (I didn't measure it, but I believe to remember that I was told it was approximately ¼" thick, altogether). It's meant to compete with "Formica" and such, but it has a few drawbacks: 1. It can't be curved. 2. It's quite expensive. 3. Although it is real natural stone, for some inexplicable reason it looks like plastic to me.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4503: My name is Ken.
I've been looking many web-site to slove my problem. But, most web-site
did not work for me properly. However, your web-site greatly helps
me. I works for spa house in Japan. We use granite for spa tub. As
you know, as the time pass, the granite gets dirty. Granite gets water
stain, some kind of mold. However, spa is not just water. It inclues
some chemicals. Therefore, for me, it is really difficult to keep
clean my granite tub for my customers. And also, when I use some kind
of cleaner, it harm my granite, too. So, my granite gets worse and
worse. Then, I have a quetion for you. How can I keep my granite clean,
and how can I remove some dirty part such as mold, stain, and so on
without harm the stone? If you can suggest some kind of cleaner, how
can I get that on your web-site. As I read your web-site, you are
suggesting some cleaner for questioner. But, I don't know where I can get the cleaner. So please tell me how to buy it, too. Thank you so much. Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ken: I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4501: I have become interested in carving rock, preferably limestone for now and maybe something a little harder later on. I would prefer to use rotary tools if possible. What type of blades would be best to obtain for this purpose. Galen Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Galen. Are you wanting to use small dremel type tools. Bigger die grinders, or even bigger angle grinders? As a chisel carver, I don't work with rotary tools very often. but I do keep a few 1/4 inch shank carbide burrs on hand for use with a pneumatic die grinder, and cup wheels, cut off blades and diamond blades for a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4500: I've chosen Dakota Mahogany for granite counters to be installed in the kitchen of a new house we are buying in a development near Sacramento, CA. There will also be a full granite backsplash behind the cooktop. I would appreciate advice on the proper maintenance for the counters and backsplash. Is it correct that this granite does not require sealing? Bonnie, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Bonnie: Yes, most of the time Dakota Mahogany does not need any sealing. However, I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been "doctored", or "resined" by the factory, which would make a big difference! (It's never the case with DM, though.) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 4499: My kid dropped a tv on my
mothers coffee table which has a marble top imported from italy
40 years ago. It broke off on corner of the top, is there any way
to repair this without it looking so obvious. My 5 year old is lucky
that grandma loves her so much. Thanks, Jeff, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jeff: Wow! A whole TV?! Was it a big screen? … What's your daughter, Young Wonder Woman or somethin'?! I'm wondering if granny didn't take any "action" because she loves your daughter so much, or because she's scared of her!!! J Well, the best thing to do would be to use some epoxy glue, but I don't consider that a DIYer project. There's a new glue on the market called "Gorilla glue" and it's heavily advertised in many magazines. It goes on black, it dries clear and it does bond stone quite strongly. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4498: I have a bathroom vanity, with a single sink in a 60 inch space. Both the sink and the cabinet below need to be replaced. I first looked at replacing the countertop with a cultured mable unit, but I cannot find anything to fit -- the nearest size is 61 inches, which will not fit in the space. So, if I am to remove the existing marble countertop without damage, how do I go about this? The countertop has separate pieces about 1 inch thick and 3 inches high as back and side splashes. Should I expect the whole unit to be glued together and in place? How do I remove it without scratching or breaking the marble. or is there a solution using a new cultured marble countertop that deals with the size mismatch problem? Thanks, Simon, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Simon: Yes, of course you should expect the whole unit to be glued together and in place. But you should be able to loosen it with a blow torch directed where the stone is bonded with the cabinet. I do not consider that a DIYer project, though! As far as "cultured marble" goes, some say that I know a couple of things about stone, but sure enough I don't know the first thing about plastic (just because its called "cultured marble" it doesn't mean that's even remotely related to marble. It just looks like it. Well … kinda!). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4497: Wow! and sigh... We just had "granite" countertops installed in our kitchen, two weeks ago. The color is Shivakashi, also called "Summer Yellow". So far, I have noticed greasy stains resulting from spattered french fry grease, and 2 more big ones from leaving 2 sticks of butter out on the counter to soften. In fact, it wasn't until after I'd let the butter stay on the counter all day that I saw the 2 dark grease stains they'd made. In a terrible panic, I wiped the stains with a cloth soaked with dish detergent and water, but there was no removing the stains. Now I'm reading in your replies that water only enhances the absorption of the grease stain...(sigh again). The spattered french-fry grease seems to have largely faded away, although I can still see where it happened. The butter stains are slowly getting faint. It's been 11 days. I'm stuck with these countertops for the rest of my life. They are BEAUTIFUL, but I thought I was getting a very functional kitchen, and not a showplace. Now, I have to take every precaution to place things under my utensils, and pretty much cover the counters when I'm cooking or washing the dishes. We regularly cook bacon, which spatters like mad, and I'm wiping every grease spot feverishly, the whole time I'm cooking. In fact, I'm scared to death when my kids go anywhere near the counter to place their glass of strawberry milk, or their cereal bowl. God forbid I let them cook or even clean the dishes!! The pattern on the Shivakashi is extremely varied and actually camouflages the water spills and stains. But, will I have to live with spotty, stained countertops for the rest of my life? Jones, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jones: No, you don't have to live with a stained countertop for the rest of your life (and I'm not talking about ripping out your current countertop and replace it, here!) J However, your situation begs the question: What ever happened to the fabricator who sold and installed your countertop in your home?! What did they tell you? Well … never mind! Anyway, the stains can be removed rather easily. After that, you will have to seal your countertop with a good quality stone impregnator and … Enjoy it! (Well, kinda … Shivakashi will always be a little bit of a problem, but it will be immensely more enjoyable than it is now.) When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4496: I recently purchased at auction a granite countertop material labeled as "green pearl." Mere weeks after installation, I have already had a sever discoloration problem whereby a nickel-sized section of the countertop has bleached to black and white (rather than the original green and black). This discoloration may have been brought on by a lime half left on the counter. Since I could not find reference to "green pearl" in your database, I am highly suspicious that this is a dyed granite. My question is this: is "green pearl" an accepted name for a type of commercial granite or are such names simply made up by the sellers and contain no real meaning? Thank you in advance for your help. Strom Snyder, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Strom: Never heard of such stone. Is it perhaps, "Emerald Pearl"? I doubt, however: lime wouldn't have made the damage you're reporting. It may be a green ophicalcite. Get hold of an expert who can tell you what you have. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4495: I have tried a spray solution of 50/50 bleach/water but it appears to need some scrubbing or high pressure -- I am trying to avoid too much damage to the stone, Rod, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rod: I’d really love to know what on earth you’re talking about! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4494: We have just had Impala black counter tops installed. There was a scratch which an installer attempted to fix by buffing it for some time. Now that area seems like the finish is gone, it is really kind of hard to describe, it is like the grey in the stone now has a sparkle to it. I have been reading on your sight about honed finished which from what I gather is a satin type finish so I don't think I have that. The owner of the company is scheduled to view this problem but I am really not sure if any of them know what they are doing does this problem sound fixable? This stone was also sealed, should it have been? Also does anything help the smudges and fingerprints, a granite polish seems to help for awhile but how often can you do that. I would be interested in your maintenance list and any products you have. Thank for any help Nick Kinnas, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kinnas: To answer the question about the sealing issue, typically Impala Black does not need to be sealed, but I don't think it's the issue in your case. Talking about which, I must admit that I don't understand what it is. Was you countertop originally with a hone-finish or polished? Now the stone "has a sparkle to it"? You mean that it had no sparkle before? You actually don't even know if you bought a hone-finished or a polished countertop? Where were you at the time of the decision making? You should be more specific. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4493: I am considering putting Giallo Veneciano Granite for my kitchen countertops. How does this granite rate in terms of absorption? Will it stain easily? Is this a good choice? Thanks for your help. Michael, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Michael: I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been “doctored”, or “resined” by the factory, which would make a big difference! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4492: I'm having granite countertops installed in my kitchen. I'm using a 3 cm granite with an ogee cut edge - no lamination or double cutting. What is the standard overhang distance for the granite from the cabinent face (not drawer or door fronts)? I was expecting more overhang than I got with the "standard cut." The granite edge lines up exactly evenly with the top edge of my drawers. The problem is that the drawer fronts have a triple molded edge and the raised panel bellows out beyond the granite edge. I think it looks strange - like we skimped on the granite - which is not the case- we went with the advice of the "experts." I asked several times about the overhang and was assured by the fabricator and our contractor that the overhang would be sufficient. Welll.....Karen, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Karen: Well … it all depends from the definition that your fabricator gives to the word "sufficient", I guess! There a re no official standards (what a breaking news!), but, usually, the overhang is anywhere between 1 ¼" and 1 ½". Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4490: I'm evaluating granite/ceramic tiles for flooring. I would like to know which is better option given that I would be using it in the living room and bed room and would go in for the lowest price one. I would be very grateful if you could reply as soon as possible. Santosh, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Santosh: To be quite honest with you, I don't understand your question. If your determination will be based on cost, why are you bothering to consider granite? You can find cheap ceramic tiles at $1 a foot. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4489: I just had a new granite kitchen countertop installed. It is called Saint Cecilia (brown/black/bit of pink and gray and white). It looks great however there is one thing that concerns me. When I shine a light on the granite and look at it from a low (about 15-25 degree)angle I notice small hairlike scratches. These scratches are everywhere on the stone. Is this normal? Any advice you can give is appreciated. Bob, Jan 9, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jan: Without seeing what you're seeing it's hard to tell. Have your fabricator come over and assess the situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4488:
I recently had a limestone floor installed in my foyer 14' x 16' in
size (new construction). Each tile is 16" square. Because it
is a concrete slab, the installer suggested a sub-floor material be
installed to ensure the level area to be tiled. Well, the floor looks
to be a disaster. The centerline was not determined when the job began.
The tiles are not level. Some corners are up 1/8" while others
are low into the grout line. Some entire 16" sides are raised
as much. The installer said this was natural as the stone tiles were
so heavy. He said if he removed any of these tiles, the adjacent ones
could break as well and then the problem would be worse. He suggested
that to eliminate this problem. we have the entire floor sanded and re-sealed. The floor really looks bad. Depending on time of day, light from the beveled entrance and transom highlights the uneveness and creates ugly shadows. I am afraid that my trust has been shaken and I do not know if this installer knows what he is talking about. Can you advise? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am afraid to go further until I am better educated. Needless to say this is an expensive floor and this is the main entrance - what a first impression. Thanks, Susan White, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jan: You've been taken for a royal ride. The industry standard for "lippage" is 1/32", tops. That floor must be calibrated by grinding it. It's an extremely demanding (from a professional point of view) proposition and quite expensive, too. The setter should be paying for it. Let me know where you live and I'll see if I can help you out locating a bona fide contractor (lots of quacks out there!). Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll show you a way to get a full refund for it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4487: I had a honed and filled (not polished) saturnia floor installed about a year ago in all of the common areas of my home, including my bathrooms and showers, except for the bedrooms floors where I installed wood. It was also sealed at the time of installation. I want to know the best way to clean it. For the past year I have been useing only water as I was told to do by the installer for the purpose of maintaining the sealer, however, I don't feel that the floor is clean enough. Plus, how do I get rid of the water stains in the shower on the saturnia? What should I be using instead, if anything, that won't remove the sealer? Also, how often do I need to reseal the floor? I have also been getting chips and holes in the stone recently. Can those be filled or do I have to replace the individual pieces? Lisa, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lisa: So, let's see. They thoroughly sealed your Saturnia stone, which - besides than in the bathroom, the kitchen and the family room didn't need to be sealed - but then they told you not to clean it. Ever! (Even you realize that water alone won't cut it!). Nice, ain't it!! And, "what else is new!", too! How often you have to re-seal the areas I listed above depends on the make of the impregnator/sealer that was originally applied (it's best to stick to the same make all the time). Some sealers require a yearly application, others every 3 to 5 years, others yet, every 15 to 20. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4486: I like to know more about the practical use of the lime stone which application is the best, and the pricing for each one of them either by sf or m2 Tony, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear Tony: Considering the hugely vast meaning of the word "limestone", and considering the unpredictable (and never rectifiable) situations end-users of limestone sometimes end up finding themselves into, in my opinion the best application for limestone is to leave it in the showroom of the merchants who sell it. If you like the look of limestone but don't want to take chances, consider hone-finished marble instead. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4485: I would like to build a stone retaining wall and would like to know what the mortar mix should be. and the easyest way to split granite Ric Pr. George, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: George, my personal preference is type S masonry cement mixed at a 3 to1 ratio with masons sand. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4484: We have 3/4 in thick 16"x 16" limestone floors that are beautiful and extremely hard in our living roomI tried the lemon juice test on a scrap piece and it does not etch or even absorb even after some 5- 8 minutes, when applied to the polished side . The polished side is very lightly polished and we like the "matte" look of the floor. I'm leaning to not sealing the floor at all, because of it's hardness. From the findstone web site definitions, this is oolite limestone of the highest quality, from Italy, and has a coloration of blue and beige. What would be your suggestion? an impregnator sealer or something else. Our concern is food spills at parties, etc. Thank you, and by the way your advice is the best I have ever read- you are clearly a master stone craftsman. I am a chemist by profession, so lay it on me! David, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear David: If it did not absorb the lemon juice, then you shouldn't be concerned about sealing the stone with an impregnator/sealer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4481: I have striped my bathroom, I have put up new hard board, I have 12"x12" Marble and I do not know anything. What kind of prep work do I need to do and what kind of glue do I need to use. Can I get help, step bye step info from you. I do have a few smarts but this is all new to me help. what do I need to get the show on the road? Thank you Bob, Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear Bob: I'll be glad to help you, but I will need more info from you. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will been told), but I will guide you step by step through your "marble adventure". Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4480: E mail me relevant information regarding staining/etching of honed marble floor near dishwasher. I worry about dishwasher detergent damaging floor. Albert , Jan 8, Reply |
| R1: Dear Albert: I believe that most of dishwasher detergents won't etch marble. Being that your stone has a honed finish, and being that's in a kitchen, it should have been sealed with a good-quality impregnator/sealer for stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4479: I had a natural stone fire surround fitted. These have been put together in such a way that it is all out of line, there is half an inch of mastick on top of one pillar holding up the shelf - none on the other. The hearth sits half an inch under the carpet on one side and an inch above on the other. Corgi advised us that we needed an expert to inspect this fireplace - COULD YOU PLEASE SUGGEST ONE Corgi also found 8 faults on the installation of the fire and left a condemnation notice attached - we have commenced court proceedings and need as much information as we can to substantiate our case. Jan 6, Reply |
| R1:
It is difficult to assess this sort of thing without actually seeing
the situation, but from your description, it sounds like the unit
was not installed correctly. My question to you is did you hire a
professional stone setter to do the installation, or did you use a
low bidding hack? Was a level put on the hearth before any of the
other pieces were put up? Doesn't sound like it. Or, on the other
hand, is the workmanship on the surround of good professional quality.
Are the uprights (legs) the same length? Was the hearth slab the same
thickness from side to side? Believe it or not, there is a lot of
junk being produced to feed a ravenous market by people who's only
concern is the bank balance at the end of the day. A good installer
can make a poorly fabricated surround look good. A poor installer can screw up the best of fabrication workmanship. Let us know where you are located, and one of the respondents to this forum will probably be able to refer you to a true professional in your area. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4476: I was researching a fix for a client's marble deterioration. I am somewhat stumped. I am seeing this customer's Norwegian Rose marble (the white portions) deteriorate like a sugar cube that has just had a drop of water placed on it. I have K-bonded some of the larger impairments only to observe the marble around the bonded portion simply wash away while grinding down the area with 60/120/220 grit sandpaper. I think the K-bond will just pop out when enough of the calcite has vanished around it. Previous stone "technicians" that have worked on this stone have been using the crystallization method, I suspect. I know there are proponents for and also against the crystallization process; could this be the cause of the stone's deterioration and if so, how do you reverse or even stop the degradation of the stone? Any insight into the resolution of this guy's problem would be greatly appreciated. Lee, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lee: The only proponents of "crystallization" are those who make money out of the crap-in-a-bottle that they sell, and that's supposed to be the ultimate substitute for professionalism! There are no doubts in my mind that the crystallization process was the culprit in this matter. Solution? NONE. For what you're reporting to me the core of the stone has been damaged beyond repair. By the way, did you say you used sandpaper to hone that floor??? Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'd like to get to know you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4474: I am looking for a pure white granite for a custom kitchen in washington, dc. does such a granite exist? Bill, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Bill: Nope! The closest thing is “Romano White” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4472: Could you tell me the average dimensions of a 10 ton raw block of granite? Thank you in advance, Paul, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Depending on the weight per cubic foot, about 100 to 115 cubic feet or roughly 4ft. x 4ft. x 6 to 7 ft. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4469: I have an oilve oil stain on my granite counter (atlantic green). Colud you recommend a poultice or removal method. A friend has suggested K2R spot remover? Would this worl or just damage the counter. John, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear John: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4467: My 12 year old
nephew was running with a cup of Orange Juice and spilled it in four
places on my polished marble. I am not mad, I was young once too!
We quickly cleaned it up, so the etch is not too bad. The etch is not really rough to the touch, but the shine and polish is dull. You can see a "shadow" of each spill in the reflections on the marble.I don't think my marble guy will come in to work on something this small, or will have to charge so much that it won't be practical for me.Is it hard to repolish the areas myself? Will the materials be expensive, and do I need any special tools? Thanks Tom, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Tom: Relax; help is in your way! You'll have to pay a little token to get in touch with me at: info@findstone.com, but I do have an easy solution for you (no charge for my own advice, only the little token you'll be told about). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4465: Hi My name is
Antonio i am looking installing sandstone vanity instead of granite
can you recommend a stone mason who will cut to size? Also looking in having sandstone tiles I have heard so many things about maintaining them would you recomment to have them or should I look at something similar any suggestions. I am building a house and I want the house to have a earthy feel about it so I thought sandstone would be they way to go are you able to offer me any suggestions please, Antonio Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Antonio: Had you ask me the same question a few short months ago, I would have told you to stay away from it. But things do change, don't they! There are a few impregnator/sealers now that tackle the porosity of sandstone quite well. They are not easy to identify, but I could help. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4464: We are remodeling a master bathroom. We are considering Calcutta Luna tiles for the walls. We are wondering about the durability of this material for the shower. We are also trying to decide between honed or polished surfaces. We are also considering 18x18 tiles-it is a large shower. Will this give us a richer look than 12x12 tiles? We would appreciate any advice as we don't want to make the wrong choice. Richard Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Richard: Sorry, but I never heard of that particular stone (not under that name, anyway). About the rest, I'm only a mechanic, not a decorator.Just make sure that who sells you the stone (whatever it's going to be" are going to tell you exactly what to do to properly maintain it. Make also sure that whoever is going to install it in your shower is not some "Michalangelo" who's going to "butt-joint" the tiles! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4463: I have a soapstone shower floor which was installed about seven years ago. It feels like there's a sealant on the stone, but I'm not sure. Does soapstone in showers need to be sealed? If so, how often and with what? Eric, Baltimore, USA, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eric: Soapstone does not need to be sealed, ever. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4462: Our recently
installed kitchen countertop is Peacock Green. When we selected the
slab it was very shiny and the sample chunck we brought home looked
as though it had a layer of lacquer or something over it. After it
was installed, the installer sealed it with Stone Tech. I don't know
if that is a plain sealer or impregnator or whether it was even needed.
We aren't using the kitchen yet. The tumbled stone backsplash was just finished. It is Jerusalem Gold. The installer will come back to seal it with an impregnating type of sealer. The installer did a good job of cleaning off everything but said there could be dust and bits of sand flaking for a few days. Questions: 1) Is Peacock Green a granite? Did it require sealing? (I just read about the lemon test but because my sample is slick and shiny, should I try it on that side or the back?) 2) I wiped the countertop with a mild solution of Shaklee Basic H which is a biodegradeable cleaner "free of phosphates, chlorine, borates and nitrates". Does this seem ok for daily care? Do I need a cleaner compatible with the sealer? 3) what kind of stone is Jerusalem Gold and does it require any special care? 4) When the backsplash is sealed will the sealer damage the granite? The space between the granite and backsplash is grouted (not caulked). Amel, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Amel: There's no such an animal like a sealer for stone which is not an impregnator. The product used by your contractor is, in fact, an impregnator. With Peacock (not a true granite) you probably didn't need it. The lemon juice test must be run on the polished side. Jerusalem stone is limestone. Never heard of that cleaner. If it doesn't say that's safe on natural stone I wouldn't take any chance. No, the impregnator will not damage the "granite". Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4461: I have always been careful in the care of the marble, but an accumulation of lime built up around the tap and faucet due to a leaky faucet and hard water. Someone, who will remain nameless, tried to use lime remover to remove the lime build up and subsequently left many marks on the marble finish. I purchased a marble repair kit, but it is taking a lot of polishing to remove the marks. I was wondering if there is a dremel tool attachment that could reduce the wear and tear on my wrist for polishing the stone. I realize that this must be done carefully. Polish a little, clean and check. Polish a litle, clean and check.... until the surface marks are removed, then begin the shining polishing process. Deborah Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Deborah: Forget about any "Dremmel" attachments! Lime removers don't only etch marble, they actually dig into it. Polishing alone will not do. You have to seriously hone the damage first, before you polish. It's not a DIY project. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4459: Are there any specific thoughts on SIVAKASI (SHIVAKASI, SHIVAKASHI, ETC)? We've been leaning towards Kashmir Gold, but we are now looking at the SIVA (for kitchen countertops). I've looked at Dr. Daniel's table and it shows a lower porosity than the Kashmir, but we haven't acquired and tested a sample yet. Our sample of Kashmir was excellent with the lemon juice test...on both sides of the stone. I've heard there may be some problems associated with this stone. Any help is appreciated, Craig Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Any Shivakashki is dicey as far as absorption is concerned. Sealers will do a limited amount of good only. Kashmir Gold is not much better and will give the same problems. Try Maurizio's lemon juice test for sure! Adriana, Cassie |
| R2:
Dear Craig: In as much
s I am sure that Dr. Daniel (who I consider a precious good friend)
did his homework thoroughly, my personal real-life experience makes
me wonder about the uselessness of those absorbency rate numbers.
For all intents and purposes, Shivakashi is just as absorbent as Kashmire.
But, then, you're reporting that your sample of Kashmire passed the
lemon juice test, which only means one thing: the slab had been processed
in Italy and had been "resined". Such (good) extra factor
changes the whole equation for the better. If the Shiva has been "resined",
too, then you shouldn't have any problem. Keep also in mind that the
most recent evolution in stone impregnator technology made me change
my strong position against those "granites". Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4458: I am considering gasgogne blue OR st. croix limestones for 900-1200 sq ft (floor)(entry, kitchen, great room, 2 baths, 2 bedrooms, hall). what issues should be considered (not a good choice because it's hard to maintain, etc.). Also, i've never had a stone floor before (and i've been warned that i may not be able to get my money out of the stone when i try to resell the condominium at some point in the future).thanks for your thoughts on any/all issues. Durkin, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Durkin: Sorry, I never heard of that particular stone, but the world "limestone" alone gives me the creeps! See my answer to question 4457 just below your posting. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4457: We installed Albi French Limestone in foyer, living room, kitchen 3 seasons room etc. 2 months ago. It was sealed with a 15 year product. There are so many rough spots and hazing we contacted the installer and a rep for the product. They used a cleaner which didn't work, and they now feel it must be stripped and the sealer reapplied. On top of that I have drops of something by the sink that a baking soda poultice was supposed to remove. It only made everything darker, spots and surrounding area. Before I let anyone get their hands on my floor any more I would like to know if stripping will work and should a sealer be reapplied. Also why the spots if there was a sealer on the floor? HELP Please Reply Becky , Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear Becky: Sometimes people are wondering why I always advise consumers to stay away from limestone … You're just one more party of my "statistics" list. Sorry about that! But, hey, it's only money! Besides, who knows, maybe all the gurus that are working on your limestone with all sorts of "miracle-in-a-bottle" and in-depth conjectures and analysis, will be able to solve the problem. I know I wouldn't! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4456: I'm taking out
my old countertops and I'm installing black galaxy granite/gabbro
in my kitchen and at one place there is about an eleven inch over
hang. The installer that came out to measure the first time told me
I would need two brackets underneath for support--the granite could
break off in the future. Because my countertop is regular height with
useable cabinet doors underneath, I told him when he came to do the
templates, that maybe instead of a 3 foot wide countertop we did something
shorter because the brackets would get in the way of the doors. He
then told me that black galaxy was stronger than the lighter colors
and I didn't need the brackets anyway. So my question is, do I need brackets for an eleven inch overhang or not? My cabinets are about two feet wide. How far is to far without support? Beth, Jan 6, Reply |
| R1: I've had several quotes on installing granite and have been told that an unsupported overhang of 4-5" is okay. Anything over that, supposedly, should be supported by legs or brackets. Hope this helps. Herb |
| R2: Dear Beth: If the slab is 3 cm. You should be all right without support braces (don't lean on it, though! It's really borderline). If it's 2cm laminated, then you do need a support. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4454: I have a small business providing donor recognition to not for profits...We, at times, use granite to engrave text & names...Here is our problem...Our client has a 1930's historic building with plaster walls....We need to mount 6- 18"x32"X3/4" granite plaques on those walls. We can not find a definitive answer from our local suppliers...Any suggestions would begreattly appreciated...Larry, Jan 2, Reply |
| R1: In order to get those plaques installed, you will need to make sure they are anchored to the walls.... this can be done either with Copper wire or Metal straps. This may require that the walls be stripped off the plaster to the base.. which should be either stone or brick and the attachment must be fastened to the base. You need to get this engineered by a structural engineer or by the installer, Ravi |