| Q 7939:
I am installing polished white thassos
stone on the walls of a shower stall and on walls surrounding a bathtub.
My designer tells me that I do not need a sealant because the stone
is polished. But I understand that the stone is quite porous and may
stain over time. Do I need to use a sealant? If so, which sealant
do you recommend? Many thanks, Sara, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sara: For once that an interrior designer is right!... And what
gave you the "understanding" the White Thassos is quite
porous? And what kind of stuff could you possibly going to spill in
your bathroom to stain it? Coffee, cooking oil, dark sodas?... Concern
yourself with the routine maintenance of the sone which is much more
important than a stupid sealer! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7938:
Giallo Napoleone We just had this installed
in our kitchen. I thought it was a granite, but am now confused. Is
it? Can you advise caring and cleaning tips? How often should we seal
it? What products do you recommend? Many thanks! Newman, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lyna: No it is not a true geological granite, it's rather a gneiss.
Aboput the frequency of the sealing it all depends on the impregnator
your fabricator used. Some needs to be applied once a year, some others
every 3 to 5 years, and some other again - like my outlandish MB-4
- once very 10 years! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7937:
We just had an absolute granite kitchen
counter top installed. We used a hot plate which we placed on it near
the cooked top. A crack appeared. What might have caused it. Can it
be fixed. The counter is literally one day old. Thanks, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Howard: It's impossible for me to determine what happened without
physicaly inspecting your countertop. A couple of things are pretty
much for sure: 1. Granite is not sensity to heat to the pointi of
cracking under the action of a hot plate (how hot can it possibly
be?). 2. When a granite cracks it's almost always a consequence of
a faulty installation.Unfortunately, from a distance, that's all I
can tell you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7936:
I left some salad oil on my granite
counter overnight. It is about 4 inches across. Ugh, I was so upset....
I called about 10 granite companies in my local area.....not one suggested
acetone. There were flour and water poutices, baking soda and vinegar,
baking soda and dishwashing liquid, even light sanding!!! One place
recommended oiling the whole counter. I opted for the flour and water,
which did not work, but lessened the stain. I thought it couldn't
hurt!
When I read your suggestion if the acetone poultice, my first thought
was that it would be too harsh. I once spilled nail acetone on my
wood floor and it ate through the polyurethane. Is regular acetone
so harsh? Can I make things worse? Please advise. Thankyou, Lisa,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: Light sanding or oiling the whole countertop, huh …
WOW!!! Are those people supposed to be of the trade?! :-) There’s
quite a difference between a varnish (polyurethane) and a rock, isn’t
there?! No mineral solvent will ever harm natural stone. The question
is: do you really know how to make and – most importantly –
manage a poultice? Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7935:
If I want the look of wet limestone
floor tiles, what kind of sealer or finish do I apply to a new unsealed
floor? Thanks, Maurice, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jean: My outlandish MB-6 is “your man”! Considering
that your limestone is probably very porous, you will need two, three,
or maybe more applications. Wait 24 hours in between applications
and make sure that before the products dries on the surface of the
stone you remove every bit of residue off it. One can covers approximately
150 square feet each application. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7934:
I purchased a new house with Black
Galaxy granite slab counter tops. The edge was a standard 3/4".
I would like to improve the look, is there a way I can use my existing
edge and add a small strip using adhesive to glue it under the existing
edge making it a 11/2". We had a back splash but we removed it
and added a tile back splash so I have the old back splash that I
can have cut and polished for this . Is there a miter cut that will
look better than others. I did not want to not buy the house because
the edge of the counter top wasn't what I wanted, but I don't really
want to have to pay for all new counter tops just because I want the
look of 11/2" bull nose or something a little more elegant. Thanks
for you help. Doug, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Doug: Well, everything is possible, but not by yourself and not
on location. You would have to find a local fabricator to remove your
countertop, take it to their shop without breaking it, do the job
hoping to find a matching Black Galaxy slab, and install it back into
your kitchen again without breaking it. If I were still in the fabrication
business, quite frankly I would decline a job like that: just too
risky. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7933:
I had granite countertops installed
in my house they look great but now the problems started. The granite
installers claimed in Vermont they don’t install the sinks. The
plumber looked at me and said he has no clue. Now I’m stuck.
I purchased a granite undermount by Pegasas which looks great but
weighs about 30 lbs. what do I use for adhesives to secure it? It
comes with clips but the granite installers did not drill any holes
they said I should expoxy them. For the record stay away from Vermont
marble and soapstone they sell a nice looking product but don’t
have a clue about installation. Pvillari, Reply |
R1:
Dear Phillip: In Vermont they don’t install the sink, huh!…
I wager the CT and NH folks don’t realize how lucky they are:
they get sinks installed over there!! :-)
This happens when one gets him or herself out shopping for a granite
countertop while considering the stone as the only deciding factor.
The ONLY deciding factor should be the fabricator instead! At any
rate, it’s too late now and I have no practical solution for
your problem. Epoxy alone will NOT do it with a 30 Lbs. sink. You
must have holes drilled in your under counter to attach the sink with
the metal clips. (And epoxy, too, of course.) See if you can find
a “jack of all trades” with a drill, a masonry bit and some
brains to do the job for you. Now
remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. In your specific case, maybe in Vermont they don’t
tell people how to take care of their countertop, either! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7932:
I'm hoping you can point us in the
right direction. We have travertine marble walls in our shower --
some of the filler in the travertine has fallen out and we're wondering
what we should use to refill these voids. Nothing big, but it's worrying
us. Any advice? Thanks! William, Reply |
| R1:
Dear William: Stop using that shower for a few days to let it dry
completely, and then fill the holes using latex-modified sand-less
grout. Let it cure for a couple of days before using the shower again.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7931:
We are building a home and have the
opportunity to purchase travertine at a good price from a masonry
company who purchased a large quantitiy. I do not know the type of
travertine it is. They called it "chocolate" but to me it
is too light for that description. It would be for most of the living
area of our home. The other living areas will be wood floors.
I love a rustic look and want something maintenance friendly. After
reading your question and answer segments I am getting scared, What
do YOU recommend for a rustic look floor in a travertine type floor?
Becky, Ocala, Fl, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Becky: What do YOU recommend for a rustic look floor in a travertine
type floor? I don’t quite understand your question. If the travertine
tiles are highly polished, then you won’t have a rustic look.
To have that you have to go with either hone-finished or tumbled travertine.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7930:
Hi I would like to instal limestone
on a new concrete slab in my kitchen. I have few questions:
1. Is Limestone too pourous for a kitchen floor?
2. What finish should I get if I am looking for a smooth matt like
finish?
3. What should be done after the stone is installed as far as treating
it?
4. The contractor tells me that the tile demension must be no thicker
that 3/8 in. does that limit how large the tile can be?
Thanks for your help. Alex, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Alex: The inherent porosity of the stone is only one of the problems
with limestone in a kitchen (or any other area of the house, for that
matter) and a relatively minor one. In a kitchen the major problem
is acid etching, and nothing can protect limestone or marble from
that. The real issue, however, is that by saying limestone you’re
indicating a few hundred possibilities. While most limestone installations
are successful, all too many of them will present problems of an unknown
nature (spalling, powdering, bleaching, etc.) with no solution. I
can’t recommend such material for any installation.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7929:
Need your advice. What do you know
about a company "Granite Transformations"?? They resurface
your existing countertop with a 95% granite (ground and blended with
polymer resin) material.
I don't have a comparison of a granite countertop that replaces the
old one. It seems like a lot of money. But I do like the idea that
they don't have to remove the old countertop. Any comments to help
me out. Thanks. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Frank: I can’t comment. I never heard of such a company
and/or of such a procedure. The only thing I know is that 95% quartz
and 5% resin is called engineered stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7928:
After our granite kitchen countertop
was installed, I noticed a two-inch long scratch. We did tell our
installer & they said it would be fixed. Could you tell me the
proper way a granite scratch should be repaired? And, will this touch-up
hold? THANK YOU so much for this website as this is the first experience
my husband & I have had with granite! Sincerely, Donna, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Donna; Let me ask you a question: why do you say, “I have
had it with granite!”? It didn’t do anything to you, did
it? Why don’t you address your frustration in the right direction:
the fabricator? They are those who created the problem(s), not the
stone itself! Having said that, if the repair is done right the “holding”
issue does not exist: that spot will be just as good and durable as
the rest of your countertop. The real question is: will they be able
to do the repair right? I don’t think there are more than a couple
of dozen contractors all throughout the country who could pull that
off. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7927:
We just had black galaxy granite put
in our kitchen & it has been a terrible experience. They have
left clear silicone seeping out from the backsplash and many spots
where silicone was sloppily dropped on the counter tops- not to mention
my new stainless stove and newly finished wood floors. It was also
supposedly "sealed". There are dull spots and sticky spots
in many areas. The company says they will come back to fix everything.
My question is how do you get the dried silicone off the stone and
is that what is normally used? I didn't think the displays I've seen
have that clear white/gray looking seam that is in my kitchen. I think
from what I've read on your site that the stone should not have been
sealed, also. The company says they will make it right- I just need
to now what that is so I can ask for it. Thanks for your help in advance.
Chad & Jamie Mastny, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chad and Jamie: The dry silicone can be easily removed off the
stone surface with a razor blade and then some rubbing with acetone
or denatured alcohol. As for the rest, have then replace the current
silicone with black one and strip all the stupid sealer that has no
business being on BG to begin with. They will have to use Methylene
Chloride to strip that stuff (insist on that). Be somewhere else when
tey'll do it! The vast majority of inquirers start out by getting
all excited about a certain type of stone, the color and all that.
I always pour cold water on their enthusiasm be telling them that
they have to worry about the fabricator, not the stone! What happened
to you is a clear example of what I mean. :-)Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7926:
We are building a new home and would
like to use slate in the master bath on the floor as well as in the
shower. Is it a lot to keep up? How about durability? thanks, monique,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Monique: Which slate are you talking about? There are half a
million different types ranging from almost (and I enphasize, "almost")
acceptable to outright disgraceful. A lot to keep up? Not really,
it's just plain hopeless. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7925:
I have granite floors in the lobby
of my hotel. We have steered away from cleaners because they tend
to make the floors very slippery, but unless done the floors look
very bad. Any suggestions on what I can use to make these floors shine
without the risk of injuring guests when they walk into the lobby?
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelsa: Quite honestly I don't understand your question. Are you
suggesting that you never clean your floor because by doing so it
would become slippery? And since when is polished granite slippery,
unless wet, of course? However, I do have a product, namely MB-8 that's
an invisible topical finish which does decrease the natural slipperiness
of stone. If you're interested, I will be more than glad to propose
a comprehensive maintenance program to you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7924:
I had my counter top installed. We
had Violeta granite counter tops installed in our kitchen. The installers
said they would seal them after they installed them and I assume they
did. I was not there. But I do know they did not return for any
repplication. Should I reseal just to be safe. Also the builder told
us not to spill orange juice on it, but I read on your site that orange
juice is not an issue. And unless I am misunderstanding there seem
to be conflicting information on the validity/usefulness of the lemon
juice test. I basically want to know what I need to do to properly
maintain the countertops. I couldn't be happier with how they look,
and I want to maintain their beauty. Thank you for your extremely
informative website. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: Sill some water on a little spot of your countertop,
let it dwell for a few minutes and then wipe it dry. If the spot under
which the water has been sitting will be (temporarily) darker than
the rest of the stone surface, then the seling job was not done right.
If not, then it's fine. Don't worry about the the orange juice thing.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7923:
We will have a new kitchen in a couple
of months. We are considering the Cashew Maple for cabinets, natural
oak for floor and stainless steel appliances. I want to find a granite
countertop that will look good with the cabinets and floor. I was
looking at cranberry brown (Tan brown) or Dakota Mahogany. I was not
sure if they will be too light. I can not visualize how cabinets and
countertop will look together. I also want to know if these granites
require sealing? I see the UBA TUBA and absolute black as very popular
choices, will it be safe to go with these? Thanks, Sada, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sada: Please, pretty please, keep me out of interior decorating!
I'm even 25% colorblind! I'm strictly a mechanic and, as such, my
comment is that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite”
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In
an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7922:
My husband and I just bought a home
with two slate showers that leak. One is a jetted tub/shower combo,
and it is leaking on the side attached to the slate wall (we discovered
this via the tub access). The slate is large slabs of natural hewn
stone, some 2 x 2 1/2 feet, and the thickness varies greatly, perhaps
by 1 1/2 inches or more throughout. We have tried recalking the seams,
resealing the entire shower, and regrouting and sealing cracks and
fissures that we could find, but haven't been able to track down and
resolve the problem. We like the look of the stone, but need to remedy
the problem immediately. What should we do? Is there a sealer we could
use that would fill in/seal the shower and still retain the natural
beauty? If not, that's the least of our worries. What would you recommend
we do or use, shy of pulling out the stone in both showers (our last
resort)? Thanks, Aundrea, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Aundrea: And what happened to the liability of the engineer
who inspected the house?? I would drag is sorry butt in court so fast
to make his head spin!! There's no remedy: rip the whole thing out
before matters get worse than they are already. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7921:
I have granite countertops--Maritaka,
a stone with tints of green, gray, and blue--which were installed
two years ago. The contractor sealed the granite and said that while
we could do it again in a year or two, the initial sealing should
last closer to five years. From the time we began our counters, however,
white swirls and other discolorations began to appear. The contractor
said I could use a spray cleaner to clean the countertops, and I have
been using Windex or Fantastick along with an occasional granite polish.
The discolorations are appearing with greater regularity, and the
granite itself always looks smudged or greasy. I assume that everything
that's been done so far is wrong in some way, but I don't know how
to fix it. I'd lilke to restore my beautiful stone to its original
shine and color. Where do I go from here? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Eileen: At the beginning of their "granite" adventure,
most consumers get all involved with the type of granite to choose,
its color and its physical characteristics. Nobody seems to be concerned
with the real determining factor: the human factor - the fabricator!
You're absolutely right, Eileen, when you say: "I assume that
everything that's been done so far is wrong in some way, etc."
and, as you can easily understand, the poor "granite" is
certainly not the culprit!!
Your fabricator obviously did a lousy job when he originally applied
the impregnator to your countertop, and then he topped it all by recommending
you to use some un-tested generic products off the shelves of the
supermarket. And now you have a problem. What to do?
1. Strip whatever is sitting on your stone by using a potent paint
stripper based on Methylene Chloride. (Be very careful when using
that stuff!!) You may have to do it two or three times. 2. You apply
a good quality stone impregnator/sealer (such as my outlandish MB-4)
in the RIGHT way. 3. You will get a supply of specialty cleaning and
care agents for natural stone, such as my MB-5 (or MB-17) teamed with
MB-13. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7920:
We are having very light colored filled
travertine tiles installed as our bathroom flooring. When grouting
I am worried that the grout will cause a haze or discoloration of
the travertine &/or filled areas that won't come off. I have read
several Q/A things on this site which says that travertine doesn't
need to be sealed, but someone else said that we should seal it before
it's grouted to avoid these problems. Any advice would be most appreciated,
and if we should use a sealer, which would you recommend and how long
does it have to sit before grouting? thank you, this site has been
very helpful. Reply
|
R1:
Dear Kim: I still have to understand, for the life of me, how this
idiotic myth of using an impregnator/sealer as a grout-release product
came about. A grout-release product is some sort of topical wax (easy
to remove) to which the residue of the grout will stick instead of
sticking to the bare surface of the stone. As you finish the job,
the removal of the "wax" will automaticall remove the grout
stuck to it (not the stone). An impregnator is, technically, a below-surface
product; therefore if applied properly it can't - and in fact it does
not - work as a grout-release. If instead you do not apply it properly
and you let it dry on the surface of the stone, it will turn out to
be much more difficult to remove than the grout film itself!
Get a true grout-release to do the job right! (I don't make one.)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7919:
I am a "victim" of Black
Honed Granite. :) And wondered if you could help out. I read some
of your posts on the findstone site and you seem to be an expert,
and wondered if you ever do any field work. I live in New Rochelle,
NY. The Installer and company has used what they say is an impregnator
sealer/ color enhancer. However from what I have read it seems not
to be a color enhancer. The surface stains are a nightmare ( as I
know you already know). I think the stone is beautiful, but I want
it to be a bit easier for me and my wife to maintain. Reply |
R1:
Dear Jesse: If your countertop didn't turn black after the application
of the (alleged) stone color enhancer, then it ain't a color enhancer!
Therefore, whatever it is that they used must be removed and a true
color anhancer, like my outlandish MB-6 should be applied instead.
The best way to do that is to have a professionals stone contractor
re-hone your countertop with a good quality honing powder. This will
accomplish two important tasks: 1. The total removal of the previous
product, and 2. A perfectly uniform hone finish, opposed to the factory
finish which typically shows the swirls marks of the polishing line.
I don't do field work any longer. My activity now is strictly teaching
at international level the fine art of stone refinishing, and the
promotion of my fine products both for consumers and for professionals,
not to mention a huge consultation/training contract with the Federal
Government. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7918:
I 've been looking for more info. on
your site, for the stone that I fell in love with for my kitchen,
Juparana Wave. From looking over other Juparana info. I found, I can
see that it might be a little more absorbent than true granite, but
was looking for further data on any special care & history. The
only other thing I know is, that it is from Brazil & I was also
wondering why it is more money than many other Brazilian granites?
Any further reading you can direct me to or any other facts you can
hare, I will appreciate. Thanks in advance, Laz, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Laz: If you’re wondering why that particular stone cost
more than average, I don’t have the answer for you, but I know
of a couple who knows everything about it: it’s Mr. & Mrs.
Demand & Supply! :-)
As for the rest,
although it plain human nature at work, it appears to me that like
most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in
the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a
good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7917:
We've recently installed Pocono Green
granite and was told by the installer that it is maintenance free
and to use Windex to clean. I've been told by others that ALL granite
has to be re-sealed every year (which in my numerous searches of granite
shops was never told this by any), yet in some of my on-line searches
I find it can be 1-3 years, maybe not at all depending on the granite,
etc. How can I know for sure whether or not our granite needs maintenance
and what is the proper kind of maintenance? Thank you for your help,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Janet: Your fabricator may be a good craftsman, but when it comes
to maintenance of stone is a total ass!
About the sealing issue, while it could be true that ALL granites
need to be sealed, that doesn’t mean that all the stones that
are traded as granite but granite are not (and by a long shot at that!)
and that represent a good 95% of the total market need to be sealed,
too, does it now?! Stupid blanket sentences like, “every granite
needs to be sealed!” are easy to remember and to say, but they
are hardly substitute for knowledge and professionalism!
As for you Pocono Green, I’m not familiar enough with your stone
to be able to tell as to whether it needs to be sealed, but if you
spill some water on it, you should be able to determine that yourself.
(See if the water makes the stone temporarily darker.) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7916:
I recently purchased a granite-top
dining room table. It is not sealed. I am not certain if I should
seal it. I am worried that the sealant will affect the polished beauty
of the stone. If I don't seal it I am worried about the stone becoming
stained. Either way I am wondering what I should clean it with. If
a seal is recommended, any suggestions? Thanks - Cheri, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Cheri: And why would a sealer for stone ever alter the factory
finish? Sealers for stone are below-surface products and do not affect
in any way the original factory finish (unless, of course, one won’t
remove every residue of the stuff from the stone surface before it
dries). To determine if your stone needs to be sealed, spill some
water onto it and see if, after a couple of minutes or less, the areas
where the water has been dwelling have (temporarily) become any darker.
If so, you should apply a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like
my outlandish MB-4. If not, don’t bother! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7915:
I have a fireplace made from Tennessee
field stone, the problum is that a large fire backed in the soot into
the face of the fireplace. What if anything will work to clean the
face of the fireplace? Thank you for any help provided. Sam, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sam:
1) 2 parts of warm water;
2) 1 part of household bleach;
3) Rubber gloves;
4) A laundry brush;
5) 50 Lbs of patience;
6) 2 GL of elbow-grease;
7) Masking material for the fireplace surroundings.
Have fun! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7914:
I have tentatively settled on Giallo
Veneziano slabs for my kitchen countertop. I would like to know more
about what you think of this particular granite.
Also, to keep costs down I am considering getting pre-fabricated pre-bullnosed
slabs and having a local fabricator cut and re-inforce the sink hole,
soap dispenser holes, and make a couple of straight cuts and a few
small seams. What are the pitfalls of doing it this way? I am aware
of the fact that fabricators do not like to work in this way because
of the high-liability/no markup factor, but if I can pay them a good
price to do so, why would it not make sense? I live in California
and would appreciate knowing what the approximate labor cost for doing
something like this. Also, would it be feasible for them to work on
location so that they don't have to transport the slab after the sink
hole has been cut? Reply |
R1:
Dear LT: If it’s a good-grade slab and properly cared for, it
will be an enjoyable stone, providing that’s sealed properly.
In the “Helpful Hints” section of my website you will find
a few interesting articles about the sealing subject.
As for your “project” you already put your finger on the
sore spot: it’s not going to be easy to find a fabricator to
go for your deal, but if you find a good one and are willing to pay
a fair price … you may just get lucky! If I were still in the
fabrication biz I would charge by the hour for a project like that
(figure approx. $200.00 an hour for a crew of two). I don’t like
the idea of cutting the sink-hole on location due to the fact that
it will need to be rodded (reinforced). It would be very difficult
and highly risky doing that without the right equipment (bridge saw).
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7913:
We are remodelling our kitchen.What
do you think about black galaxy,emerald pearl and ubatuba.Keep in
mind we have young kids and we like to cook.thanks. zakia, Reply |
R1:
Dear Zakia: The stone you listed are – theoretically – all
excellent choices. None of them need to be sealed.
However, I can see that like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain
“granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 7912:
I have a kitchen countertop that is
made up of 16” x 16” Limestone, sisal shellstone. It is
about 5 years old. I don’t know how it was maintained, if at
all, the first three years. We have lived here the last two years
and done nothing with it. I don’t know who supplied it or installed
it.
I know that I had a vinegar spill that seemed to strip the luster
and leave little “divots” in the limestone (in about an
8” x 8” area). I assume that this area will collect dirt
in the divots that will be impossible to keep clean, plus it looks
different from the rest of the counter. There are other areas in the
counters that also look like a similar spill or mis-use had happened
by the previous owners. What is the proper way to rectify the vinegar
spill area? How do I clean and restore any other areas that look previously
damaged? Is there any type of annual or other regular maintenance
recommended for this limestone? Do I need to strip the whole counter,
deep clean and then reseal? What are the proper products and where
do I get them?
Thank you for any information you could provide me with. Stacia, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Stacia: I feel truly sorry for you. Limestone does not belong
in kitchen – end of story. The polish that you have in your tiles
is natural, not a sealer applied onto them. The spot that you have
are not spots: they are marks of corrosion. (Vinegar is acidic.) There
is nothing that you can do about it, there’s nothing in a bottle
that you could buy to solve your problem or even to prevent it, for
that matter. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your tabletop. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7911:
I have just had a granite bench top
installed in my kitchen. The granite always has a haze on it. How
do I go about getting rid of the haze. How do I look after my granite.
Susan, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: Without even knowing what kind of “granite”
you have, it’s virtually impossible for me trying to guess the
reason of your mysterious haze. Could you be more specific (i.e.:
did your fabricator apply an impregnator/sealer to your stone, etc.),
or – better yet – send me a few pictures of your top? Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 7910:
I installed Crema Marfil marble in
my apartment. We purchased the best quality we could find.
I noticed after the floors were finished that some "white powder"
stains appeared all over. It looks as if there was dust on the floor,
but there isn't any, We called the contractor and he said that polishing
the floor again would solve the problem. He did it. The stains appeared
again. It seems like they are coming from the "inside out"
At first I thought the marble was defective, but then I realized that
in the laundry room, where I installed a different type of crema marfil
marble (basically because we ran out of marble) and we bought a different
type - which is not even the same shade). The powdery white stains
are also there. The people that I bought the marble from say it has
to do with the
installation. The contractor that did the work, says is the marble.
I don't know what to do. Any ideas?, Thank you, Roxanne, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Roxanne: Without actually seeing your floor it’s hard to
tell for sure, but it appears to me like you have an efflorescence
problem. If that’s the case, the stone has nothing to do with
it: it’s strictly a consequence of the installation. With time
and patience it should go away, though. What really concerns me is
your report about the tile setter re-polishing the floor. What the
heck does he know about stone refinishing, which is by far the most
demanding activity - from a professional and skill requirement point
of view - of the whole stone trade? Could you please describe to me
how he “polished” your floor? Did you observe him while
he was doing it? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7909:
What a great site!! I'm so happy I
found you before I purchased a kitchen countertop I looked at today
which is called Black Galaxy Granite with silver specs. I've also
seen Black Galaxy with bronze specs. Both were at a home depot and
a granite/marble dealer's yard. Which one is the real McCoy? Second,
about the finish, they both have a glossy finish. Aren't they supposed
to be shiny? I'm a little confused about sealers on black galaxy granite.
Thanks, Hannah, Reply |
R1:
Dear Hannah: They’re both the “real McCoy”. There are
on around a dozen of quarry – all within a limited geographical
area in India – that mine Black Galaxy. Personally I don’t
like the silvery one. It’s easier to find low-grade slabs on
that one. I really don’t understand your question about the glossy
finish. They are supposed to be highly polished. Now, I really don’t
know what you mean by glossy and shiny: to me they are synonymous.
As for the sealing issue, I have a BG kitchen countertop in my own
extremely busy kitchen for almost 9 years, I never applied any impregnator/sealer
to it (but I took good care of it with the right stuff), and the stone
still looks like brand-new.
However, what I notice is that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem only interested in the color of the “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain
“granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7908:
We are about change our kitchen countertops
and floors. Our contractor suggested a granite top and marble floors.
I love the sound of that but a little skeptical about the marble floors.
Our kitchen is the busiest room.
Our guests hang out in the kitchen most of the time. I was leaning
towards a slate for floors. The bathroom--we hardly used our tub.
We planned on getting rid of it completely and just have a "nice"
stand in shower. Will this lower the
value of our property? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ruby: You have all the reasons of this world to be skeptical
about a marble floor in the kitchen, unless you choose it tumble-finished.
If marble (polished) is bad enough, slate would be even worse! It’s
probably the worst stone available on the marketplace, not to mention
the several different types of slates that there are out there, one
worst than the next. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7907:
I need your advice and help. I have
an absolute black "granite" countertop in my kitchen with
a polished finish. It is from China. Should it be sealed? Should it
beimpregnated? It seems to scratch quite easily. I would never dream
of cutting on it. Do you have any suggestions for how to fix small
scratches. Is there a way to polish them out or rub them out? Thanks
so much. You are helping thousands of us confused remodelers. Carol,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Carol: I really don’t see how this site helped you making
important decisions, because I’m afraid that the stone you’ve
been sold ain’t no black granite by a long, long, long, loooong
shot! Black granite doesn’t scratch, period. (Yes, you could
scratch black granite, by you should be working real, REAL hard to
do that!)
I don’t know what you have, but if I were you I would call a
bona fide restoration contractor and consult with him/her to find
out what you’ve got, and see if there’s any way to remove
those scratches. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7906:
Anyone have thoughts on Verde Marinace
for use as a floor surface?
I have become aware that this is a Conglomerate not a true graninte.
However "findstone" shows it having a low Water Absorption
By Weight. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Tom: Yes, it is a conglomerate, but it’s not manmade. It
is however “man treated” (heavily resined and such) to hold
it together better and give it a more uniform finish. Conclusion:
too much “doctoring” that couldn’t be duplicated in
the field to be recommended as a floor material. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 7905:
I have a milky white granite countertop.I
have sealed it 3 times in 4
months. A water stain began to appear around the faucet and gradually
became bigger and bigger. It is now approximately a six inch stain
around the faucet. I have changed the faucet and tried with peroxide
and baking soda to remove the stain with no success. Is there something
else I can use or is there anyone that I can call to fix the problem?
Thanks Liz, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Liz: You obviously had a plumbing problem, which I hope you were
able to solve. The water was getting absorbed from the sides of the
faucet hole in the stone, not from the top; therefore all the sealing
you did couldn’t accomplish the first thing. Well, actually,
it diD accomplish something: it will take a long, long time now for
the water inside the stone to dry out completely since it’s sealed
in, and no poultice will ever be able to speed up the process. Just
give it time, hoping that’s only water and not Plumber’s
putty or something. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7904:
In several units we have fireplaces
with marble surrounds and over a period of time the marble has discolored
from the use of the fireplaces is there anything that can be done
to restore the original look of the marble it is a black marble with
white veining thanks Benny, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Benny: Technically, only a bona fide stone restoration contractor
could bring ther color back to those fireplaces by honing and polishing
the surface of the stone, assuming that it could be done at all. (If
the surfaces to be treated are not flat, or are too narrow, etc. it
would be just about impossible to work on them effectively.) That
would translate in big $$! However, if you see the color coming back
when you wet the surface of the stone, then the application of a good-quality
stone color enhancer, like my outlandish MB-6 would take care of the
problem. It can’t be defined as true restoration, mind you, but
it would give you your color back. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7903:
I am interestested in a natural honed
look for my kitchen countertops. I am concerned about durability and
staining. I do not like the look of granite however. Are jerusalem
stone or travertine decent alternatives? Karyn, Reply |
R1:
Dear Karyn: It’s a culture issue.
All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble and certain limestone
are extremely popular stones for a kitchen countertop and everybody
enjoys them. In Northern Europe and all throughout North America,
many like the way they look, but nobody enjoys them! How’s that?
For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a
polished marble or limestone countertop (or a polished marble floor,
for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then
they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the
better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s
like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought
“lived-in” look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans
is very much appreciated in Northern Europe and in North America,
too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people
over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time,
and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but
a damage that needs to be rectified.
Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical
location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-) Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7902:
Recently purchased black galaxy granite
for kitchen work surfaces . A close inspection reveals many many pit
marks and a few deep abrasions .The installer suggests that the abrasions
may be caused by Gas bubbles when the stone is in the process of polishing
. He further suggests that the pit marks are due to the great number
of gold 'flecks' in the material. Have you any thoughts on this matter
. John, Reply |
R1:
Dear John: Oh, yes, I have some thoughts about that, but they are
all “X” rated!! What an incredible hogwash!! Gas bubbles
in the process of polishing???... And the pits marks are due to excessive
gold flakes??? … They are both totally ridiculous theories to
begin with, but even they were remotely possible (which are not) what??!!
You don’t want that piece of crap in your home, period!!
Tell your “Michelangelo” to come and take a look at my very
own Black Galaxy that I have for almost 9 heavy-duty years by now!!
BG is supposed to be one of the densest stone on the market, with
no pits whatsoever. (Most granite and commercial granite do have pits,
but BG is not among them!) What you’ve got is an extremely low-grade
slab, end of the debate. Tell him flat-out to go install that countertop
in his sister’s home! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7901:
Looking to replace countertops in kitchen.
Husband says silestone, more durable and does not stain. I think granite
is better looking. I am afraid of cracking, from heat or weakness
in stone. And or stains, Which is better. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Marie, Reply |
R1:
Dear Marie: Engineered Stone is not the bullet-proof material that
their promoters would like you to believe it is.
The right granite in the hands of the right fabricator is a better
choice.
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7900:
I have searched through the archives
of your responses and am in need of some additional clarification.
I seem to be experiencing the same problems as some of the other "granite"
owners. Mine is a two-year old Black Absolute, which you have consistently
said does not require a sealer. I have a couple of rings from soda/beer
cans, which makes me believe a sealer may have been mistakenly applied
and needs to be removed. However, my other issue is that the surface
has become somewhat inconsistent, as I've noticed a few rough spots
and some hazing. In fact, I noticed some granite speckles that came
off on the cloth the last time I cleaned it. This isn't normal, is
it? Perhaps this is due to the use of inappropriate cleaners. What
should I do to restore the surface to its ideal condition? Thanks,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Matthew: I won’t even ask you to get my “one-on-one”
consultation service. Without actually seeing and touching your stone
I wouldn’t be able to establish anything. One thing I can tell
you for sure: if it was the wrong cleaner that damaged your countertop,
there’s no remedy. At any rate, let’s not put a cast on
our arm before breaking it! Only a consultation with a bona fide stone
restoration contractor would lead to a thorough understanding of the
problem, and, hopefully, its solution. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7899:
I had installed new granite counter
tops in my kitchen one year ago. The granite is called "White
Tiger " I have noticed two small nicks , is there away they can
be repaired Someone has suggested to fill the nicks with Super Glue.
Any Suggestions they have not been sealed would that help? Suz, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Suz: Much better than super glue, there is this (relatively)
new glue, advertised a little bit all over, called “Gorilla glue”.
It’s easier to handle and a much better filler.Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7898:
Hi, Would you kindly advise me of the
solution to fix chips on granite counter tops? Thanks, Altaf, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Altaf: There is not a pre-set set of rules. It all depends on
where the chips are located, their shape, their depth, etc. Only a
reputable stone restoration contractor can assess the course of action
to take on a case by case situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7897:
I’m pretty sure you’ve heard
this story before… not knowing what I was doing I used a scale
removal product inside the marble shower (12in tiles) and of course
I managed to etch a lot of the tiles. Some of the etching is just
loss of shine, but in some areas the surface is pitted. I was told
I should purchase marble polishing pads and use a Makita grinder or
equivalent to abrade the surface and remove the pits and then move
to higher grit grades until I hone, polish and buff the surface. Would
you give me the same suggestion? If so, can you recommend a supplier
that I can purchase from, including the brand of the polishing pads.
Due to the economy in the US I have to do this work myself (I am very
handy, although very stupid as well for having used the scale removal
product in the first place). Anyway, what is your recommendation for
corners? Do I have to buy a hand polishing kit as well? Finally, what
grits should I buy? Thanks in anticipation for your help, Cheers,
Fabio, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Fabio: If you were asking me about installing marble tiles yourself
I would give you some hope. Refinishing them? Not a chance! We’re
talking about possibly the most demanding contracting activity on
the entire planet from a professional and skill requirement point
of view. It is indeed the very pinnacle of any activity related to
stone. I teach three-day classes on that both in the USA and abroad
at the tune of $800.00 per student. But if think that at the end of
the class one will know how to do it, think again! That is just the
beginning of the learning curve! Your only option is to hire a bona
fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and
polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone
refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to
stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are
a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ
from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone
distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7896:
just had a new countertop installed
in my kitchen. The granite slab is called Venetian Gold. It is covered
with very small pits. Is this normal? Can anything be done to change
this and get an absolute smooth surface? Thanks, Vincent, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Vincent: The vast majority of granite and commercial granite
have little pits throughout their texture. VG is one of those with
the most extensive natural pitting. It is absolutely normal, and nothing
to worry about. No, you can’t get a totally smooth surface. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7895:
What percentage of granite for home
installation contains a resin coating? I have come across a few vendors-
some say it all is resin coated, some say none of it should be and
some don't know- Also, what brand of sealant do you recommend for
granite ( if the granite requires sealing)- And finally, what brand
of cleaner do you recommend and why? Thanks, Adrianne, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Adrianne: Resining of granite slabs is a procedure that’s
getting more and more popular. Bear in mind, however, that none of
the resin is on the surface of the stone. It’s pushed inside
it to fill the natural pits and fissures of certain commercial granites.
What percentage? Is anybody’s guess, but any stone dealer or
fabricator should know whether a slab is resined. If not, you don’t
want to deal with them!! As for the product that I would recommend
to seal your granite (if needed), needless to say my outlandish MB-4
(which comes with a 10-year warranty) is the one that comes to my
mind! :-) And as for routine care products, MB-5, MB-13, MB-17 and,
occasionally MB-15 are the candidates! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7894:
We remodeled our kitchen last year and
used Maline Cerdomus Pietre D Assisi tile in Ocre on the floor (antique-looking,
terracotta base with swirls of brown, cream). We selected the same
grout that had been used on the tile board – Light Chocolate
– which appeared to be a nice weathered grey. Unfortunately,
the tile board grout had benefited from being outdoors in the elements
– the grout, when new, was a peanut butter color. We are disappointed
with the grout color and have even purchased stone-colored grout with
the idea of “skimming” a coat of new grout over the old.
Someone suggested that we might instead consider using a stone enhancer,
such as Tile Lab, to darken our ugly peanut-butter-colored grout.
Do you think this would help and, if so, what product might work the
best? We would want to avoid a shiny finish. Thank you, Lisa, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: To find out if a color enhancer will do the trick for you,
try to apply a few drops of baby oil in an inconspicuous area and
then observe the result. The baby oil will evaporate and disappear
in a matter of a couple of days, but the immediate result is what
you will be getting in a permanent way with a good-quality stone color
enhancer, such as my outlandish MB-6. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7893:
I AM IN THE MIDST OF PICKING OUT COUNTERTOPS
AND HAVE FALLEN IN LOVE WITH VERM0NT VERDE ANTIQUE. ONE STONE SUPPLIER
TOLD ME THAT IT IS MARBLE AND NOT SUITABLE FOR KITCHEN COUNTERS. OTHERS,
INCLUDING SEVERAL WEB SITES, SAY IT IS NOT A "TRUE" MARBLE
BUT SERPENTINE AND IS VERY CLOSE TO GRANITE IN HARDNESS. I AM ABOUT
TO TRY THE LEMON TEST TO SEE IF MY SAMPLE ETCHES, BUT I HOPE TO FIND
A STRONG COUNTERTOP, AND MY SECOND CHOICE IS ABSOLUTE BLACK GRANITE.
THE LOOK OF THE VERMONT VERDE IS SOMETHING SPECIAL THOUGH! THANK YOU
FOR ANY ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bette: You’d better believe it that Verde Antique is something
special! It’s one of my favorite stones! It is indeed a serpentine
and the very best “green marble” on the planet, no debate!
The lemon juice (and oil) test will tell you that is quite acid-resistant,
bit it will need to be impregnated/sealed. No biggie, though. Go for
it! (If you can afford it, that is: it’s quite expensive!! :-))
But … just make sure you get the right fabricator! In an industry
that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator
who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7892:
Could you please tell me if quartz (sky-blue
granite) is suitable for our new outdoor built-in barbecue countertop?
Is porosity or anything else a problem? Thanks, Leslie, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Leslie: If you want me to help you, you’ve got to define
“quartz” for me. I never heard of this “Sky-blue”
thing. What is it, “granite” or engineered stone? Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7891:
We are evaluating caesar stone and
granite for our island kitchen. Our cooking does tend to use more
oil, spices and frying than most. Is engineered stone easier to maintain
and clean - for our type of cooking? I was told that over time granite
will absorb water and oils unless it is very well sealed on a routine
basis. Reply |
R1:
“I was told that over time granite will absorb water and oils
unless it is very well sealed on a routine basis. Which “granite”??
Many a granite doesn’t even need to be sealed at all!
All in all granite is a better choice than engineered stone, but you’ve
got to pick the right stone. But then again, how about if I tell you
that a certain “granite” is a good choice but then you end
up getting a low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7890:
Any comments on the origin, intrinsic
quality and after-installation care of Costa Esmeralda granite would
be very welcome indeed. Thank you, Mervyn Long, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mervyn: Costa Esmeralda is a “strange” stone indeed.
Not only is it not geological granite, but it shouldn’t be classified
as a commercial granite, either. It’s a silicate rock of unknown
geological classification quarried in Iran and, because of its inherent
characteristics (too soft = scratches easily) gets my thumb down as
material for a kitchen countertop. After care is like for any other
natural stone, but no matter how good the products in a bottle are,
they will never overcome the shortcoming of the stone itself.
Having said all that,
it appears to me that, like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem only interested in the color of the “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain
“granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab because, maybe, you end up dealing with a fabricator that buys
into “special offers” from local distributors of slabs?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7889:
Can you tell me if there is any down
side (besides price) of using Blue Bahia granite tiles for a kitchen
countertop please. The lemon juice test indicates low absorbancy.
Thanks, Audrey, Reply |
R1:
Dear Audrey: Blue Bahia, low absorbency?? Either the slab has been
resined by the factory, or it ain't Blue Bahia, or you interpreted
the lemon juice (and oil) test wrongly.
Regardless, In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7888:
Your site has been extremely useful
to us as we are deciding on which granite to install for our kitchen
countertops. We have narrowed it down to black brazil, absolute black,
and baltic brown. We were initially interested in honed absolute black;
however after reading so many horror stories about the maintenance
it requires, we decided against it. We are wondering if the polished
aboslute black has some of the same maintenance issues and also becomes
more trouble than it is worth. The kitchen will still be a high traffic
area for us and includes an island for which we will also use as a
dining counter. Any advice will be helpful! Reply |
R1:
Dear Amy: Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical
characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite"
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7887:
Unfortunately, I had a terrible experience
with my fabricator and he's left my countertops installed but unfinished.
I have polished "Black Absolute" granite countertops and
I'm totally unsure on how to take care of the finish. Does it need
to be sealed, should I be polishing it? Please help, the countertops
were installed less than a month and the company has gone belly up?
Please advise. Thanks, Vada, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vada: Granite slabs are finished in the factory, not at the shop
of a fabricator. I honestly don't understand what you mean when you
say, "he's left my countertops installed but unfinished."
Could you please elaborate? Isn't your countertop higly polished already?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7886:
We have recently had black granite countertops
installed in our kitchen. When they were installed, the fabricator
put black gooey stuff on top of it. The first time we used it (and
ever since) we could not seem get the counter tops clean. When we
clean it seems to leave a film or water spots giving the granite a
shiny/dull uneven surface even if we use Windex, water alone or soap
and water (as advised by the fabricator). When we called the fabricator
he just became hostile. Was the black gooey stuff - sealer? What can
we do to make the granite look good. WT, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Thomas: I have no idea what the black gooy stuff you're reporting
to me about could have been. What I do know is that it does not belong
on your countertop! You've got to get rid of it a.s.a.p. using a paint
stripper based on Methylene Chloride (liquid, not gel) available at
any hardware store. It's nasty stuff, follow all precautionary directions
printed on the can! |
| Q 7885:
Please could you advise me as to whether
Jerusalem stone is suitable ofr use n the kitchen? thank you in advance,
Mrs Parekh, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mrs. Parekh: The following answer that I already gave to various
inquirers, oh ... a few million times, is good for marble and limestone.
It's a culture issue.
All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is an extremely popular
stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. In Northern
Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks,
but nobody enjoys it!
How's that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never
install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor,
for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then
they start using and abusing it. The "worse" it gets, the
better they like it! It's considered "aging." It's like
a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought
"lived-in" look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans
is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too,
the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over
here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any
"change" is not considered "aging", but a damage
that needs to be rectified.
Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical
location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7884:
I would like to know the pros and cons
of the Venezian finish for granite counters in the kitchen? And what
colors of granite (e.g. light vs. dark) look the best in the Venezian
finish? Thanks, Sue, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: Venetian finish will give you the same problems as the hone-finish
does, that are associated to the loss of color consequent to the loss
of glass. It is not a pain in the neck as a hone-finish, but still
your best bet is to treat your stone – whatever it will be –
with a good quality stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6.
And make sure that no impregnator/sealer is applied to your stone,
or else the color enhancer will not work.
As for the colors,
please, leave me out of interior decorating. I’m even 25% colorblind,
for crying out loud! :-)
It appears to me,
however, that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How
about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then
you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7883:
I'm trying to figure out how to even
out the look of a travertine floor throught a condo apartment that
has large areas that have scuff or swirl marks as seen in reflected
light. This is a brand new floor. I don't think it was sealed properly.
Is there a product that will cover over these areas? Or is there a
list of reputable stone finishers in south Florida who would take
on such a job at a reasonable rate? James Jackson, Reply |
| R1:
Dear James: Are you the same person (Jim) with that Durango travertine
floor coated with some un-necessary crappy sealer, or is it just a
coincidence? I need to see some pictures to understand exactly what
you’re talking about. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7882:
I just had verde ubatuba installed
in my kitchen. I specifically requested that the stone NOT be sealed,
and the fabricator said it would honour my wish. However, the stone
has a whiteish film on it that is not present on my unsealed sample.
Is there some way for me to test whether the stone was sealed or not?
Thanks, Heather, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Heather: I have no answer to your question without actually seeing
your countertop. Your best course of action is for you to get hold
of your fabricator and nicely inquire with them about the whitish
film your reporting to me about. If it’s something topical sitting
on the stone surface they should be able to clean it off. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7881:
I spilled vinegar over my un-protected
marble counter top (dark grayish), and now it has patches of white
marks on it. Can I still retore it? Any person you would recommend?
Or do I need to change the counter top totally? Thanks a lot! --Zilan,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Zilan: Is it Princeton like Princeton, NJ? (I live in Central
NJ – Monmouth Co.) Un-protected marble countertop? Why, what
could you protect it with against pH active spills??
No, it doesn’t need to be replaced and, in fact, it’s a
relatively easy repair, but due to severity of the etching (The way
I understand it from your description) you will need professional
care. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7880:
I’m wondering whether a bleach
solution is acceptable to use on landscape limestone used outdoors
in Texas. Its very green with mildew, and we’d like to clean
and seal it. Have a sealant, but wondered if we could use a bleach
to clean. Suggestions appreciated, Alan, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alan: Using regular household bleach is not a good idea. But
don’t worry: my outlandish MB-9 will do the job for you without
affecting the integrity of the stone. The application of an impregnator
sealer to an outdoor installation is not a good idea, either. The
sealer will lose its effectiveness in a matter of a couple of months
and, even if it lasted longer, it wouldn’t prevent mildew from
forming again. Not to mention that it would trap any possible moisture
coming from under the stone in. And you do NOT want that! If you didn’t
open the bottle of the sealer yet, get your money back. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7879:
I'm trying to locate jet mist granite,
but the suppliers I've contacted in California haven't heard of it.
I was wondering if you know any other names it might be called. Thanks!
Reply |
R1:
Dear Julie: And how about if you’re not going to find that particular
stone? Are you going to have it fabricated out of state, maybe by
some schmuck, just because you’re so much in love with this Jet
Mist thing (which I never heard anything about myself)?
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you
that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone
itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either doctored (which is bad), or resined (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo?! And again: a reputable
fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7878:
Any pros or cons about green pearl granite
for a countertop? Thanks, TJD, Reply |
R1:
Dear TJD: Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon! :-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7877:
I have a cultured marble tub that had
a repair done to it prior ot my
purchase of the home 4 years ago. The repair consisted of a white
filling in a crack that is not more than 1/4 inch wide, that goes
around most of the tub.
My question: Is there someone out there that can re-finish this area
to look like the rest of the tub? Or do I need to have
the tub repainted a solid color (which would be white). Is there anyone
in the greater Phoenix, Arizona area that you would
reccommend? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tom: It is understandable that the word “marble” led
you to believe that you could post your query in a natural stone bulletin
board. However, cultured marble is plastic and you should inquire
with websites that deal with plastic materials, not stone. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7876:
I have just spent some time reviewing
all of your helpful and informative replies to people regarding stone
choice. This info is going to be incredibly helpful to me as I choose
stone for our new house (although I must admit that I am sad that
it sounds like Carrara Marble is not a good choice for the kitchen…oh
well, better to know now, I guess!) Alison, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alison: You’re right on the money, but … you’re
wrong at the same time! Deciding which stone to go for is important,
but not nearly as important as selecting the human factor. Like most
other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color
of the stone and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and
reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7875:
I just moved into a new house with Santa
Cecilia granite countertops in the kitchen. The builder recommended
I use a company called Granite Shield that will permanent seal the
countertops. According to the company, the Granite Shield forms a
crystalline carbon seal which makes the counters water proof and stain
proof that will last the lifetime of the granite. Have you heard of
this option? It almost sounds too good to be true. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: “Crystalline Carbon seal”, huh? WOW! What
is it, liquid diamond or somethin’?! After all, diamond is the
only crystalline carbon I know of!! It does sound too good to be true,
doesn’t it. I did visit their website and, considering the information
that’s available in it (better said: the lack thereof), I do
believe that it is! Pardon me if I don’t believe in miracles.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7874:
What can be done to bring back the shine
to a granite counter top? Reply |
| R1:
And why is it not shiny anymore? How old is your countertop? What
kind of “granite” do you have? What have you been maintaining
it with? Anything specific that was done to it, which cause it to
lose its original factory finish? Answer those questions and then
we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7873:
I am putting in a new kitchen in, I
am debating to put granite in or,ceaserstone. I understand that there
is no need to polish ceaserstone, but situations do I need to be careful.
Scratch,heat resistant,harsh soaps,cracking. Thank you for taking
the time to answer me, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: I never heard of anybody needing to polish granite,
either! As far as maintenance requirements are concerned, the two
materials are pretty similar. Despite the marketing hype surrounding
what I consider overall an inferior product (engineered stone) it
is not true that you can clean it with everything like their produmoters
would like you to believe. Specialty cleaning products for stone are
still highly recommendable. What’s more, while it does have the
same degree of scratch-resistance as most commercial granites, e.s.
is more sensitive to heat than the real thing. The question is: how
do I go about selecting granite? Your first reaction would probably
be to ask which granites are better than others, but how about if
I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7872:
I came to your site and read all of
the answers. I think the granite in my kitchen is a bad one. It absorbs
water, oil, marker... I don't know what type it is. Could you please
refer me to a professional to help me clean it and may be reseal it.
I live in Fairfax, Virginia. Thanks, Sue Ann, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue Ann: “re-seal it.”? It appears to me like your
stone was never sealed to begin with! I don’t know any professionals
in your area, but your local Yellow Pages should list some (Marble
& Terrazzo Cleaning). If not you can try to do it yourself. It’s
not really difficult. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7871:
You may have been asked this many times,
but here we go again. I have a marble window sill that is covered
in cigarette burn stains. ( Not mine, it's an old house ) I'm sure
you know the type. This is where some idiot left the cigarette burring
on the ledge. Is there any way to remove or lessen the stain? PS:
I've been reading many or your responses and they are great, keep
up the good work. Hopeful, Ken, Reply
|
| R1:
It could be only nicotine staining, but, most of the time it’s
a combination of that with actual burnt of the surface crystals of
the stone. You have to remove the stain first and then, if that is
not enough, you have to slightly sand the stone using wet sandpaper
from 100 to 400 grit, until the burnt mark is gone. How to remove
the stains? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7870:
I am building a new home and am looking
to put travertine on the walls of my master bath shower. My builder
has done this before and says that the sealer he uses will last a
long time. Is there a problem with using this in my shower even if
the sealer is as good as he says? W. Reed, Reply
|
R1:
Dear W. Reed Allison: Here we go again with the “new religion”:
the “sealing cult”! Now, just out of curiosity, what on
earth an impregnator/sealer for stone has got to do with the installation
of travertine in a shower stall??
A sealer for stone offers ZERO protection to the stone surface; in
fact, the most important phase of the application of a sealer is to
make sure that every residue of the stuff is removed from the stone
surface, since it’s a below-surface product. This is for starters.
Second, a sealer for stone has to be absorbed by the stone to work.
Travertine absorbs very little if anything at all! (It’s the
densest stone among the calcite-based ones, contrary to popular misconception.)
When it’s polished it doesn’t absorb a thing!
Third, even if it were a little absorbent, what’s the big deal??
The only thing that an impregnator/sealer does is to prevent staining
agents like coffee or cooking oil to be absorbed by the stone and
discolor it, end of the list of the features. Now, what kind of chances
do you have to spill coffee or cooking oil in your shower stall??!
I do make a sealer, which is considered by many among the very best
in the industry. But I also have a corporate motto: “Education
before any sale!” and, unfortunately for my marketing department
I do mean it.
Travertine in a shower stall needs to be sealed like you need a hole
in your head! What it does need, though is that it’s installed
properly (no butt-jointing, etc,, etc., etc.) and that it’s cared
for with the right specialty products.
It is much more important learning what to do and what to use on a
daily basis than concerning yourself about the application of a useless
product once every couple of years! What sense does it make to apply
the “bestest” sealer in the world if the installation turns
out to be faulty? And again, what sense does it make to apply the
“bestest” sealer in the world if you’re going to damage
your shower with the wrong cleaning agent later on because nobody
taught you anything intelligent about daily care of your stone? Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7869:
Can anyone tell me how to get scratches
out of a marble table top? Springhouse, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Anne: I sure can! If you hurry up, you may be able to join my
upcoming three-day class on stone restoration to be held in my state-of-the-art
training facilities in Philadelphia, PA. (January 19-21.) In those
three days of intensive hands-on training you will learn the basics
of the fine art of stone refinishing, which is, by far, the most demanding
contracting activity you can ever think of from a professional point
of view. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7868:
I recently had a "granite"
island installed called Giallo Venetino. The slab is very pitted and
is releasing a sand-like grit, which I cannot entirely remove. The
installer came back to polish and seal it, which did not solve the
problem. The installer is now not willing to do anything more. I think
it needs to be replaced. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks,
Karen, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: Although it may not seem like it, the real problem is
not the stone but the human factor, your fabricator. (What else is
new?!) They used a low-grade slab of an inherently problematic material,
they put some stupid sealer in it not knowing that it couldn’t
stand a chance to rectify the situation and … good bye! (Not
before having smiled all the way to the bank with your money in their
pocket!) What to do? Very hard to tell, since there are no industry
standards about stone grading. You’re only option is to take
their butt to court not on the grounds that the slab is of an inferior
grading (which can’t be proven because of the aforementioned
lack of industry standards), but on the grounds that’s not granite.
That is full-fledged fraud at any state and federal level. Of course
your fabricator does not know that it is not granite, because the
invoice of the distributor says, “granite” (and that’s
how most industry operators get their “stone education”),
but it won’t be difficult for you to prove otherwise. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 7867:
We were all ready to buy honed absolute
granite for our countertop until we read this column; now we're sort
of back to square one. We need a honed finish because it's a period
kitchen in a period house and we hate the look of polished granite
for the house. We don't really mind patina, but oil
stains sound pretty dreadful. Is there another dark or greyish granite
other than absolute black that would work in a honed finish. For instance,
"Black Galaxy", or Granito Moderno. Please help! Thank you.
Roxanne., Reply |
R1:
Dear Roxanne: The answer is: No. So, either you go with honed black
granite aftger reading the following copy and paste comment: “There
are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite,
but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents
maintenance issues.
The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well …
black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they
become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back
of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss
off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of
color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is
black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone
surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all
sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice
that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can
clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they
were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an
impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one
bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed
by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely
event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution?
Well, yes: you have
to give up the gray!
Let’s just hope that your fabricator, in their “infinite
wisdom,” did not apply an impregnator/sealer to your stone:
this would have to be stripped (not an easy feat!), or else the
color/enhancer wouldn’t stand a chance to work properly.”
Or … you chose a totally different stone such as soapstone.
However, it seems to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that
a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get
a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why
I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7866:
I love reading your advice and tips;
you remind me of my Uncle Tullio who knew so much and always had time
for helping, too. Anyway, we have an antique pink/grey marble counter
that we bought from neighbors (it had been removed from a kitchen
in 1907 and stored in the basement). It is now installed in our den,
and we want to spruce it up. Just a few little rust stains, nothing
major. Mostly, it's really dull. Before I screw it up, please tell
me how I can get your maintenance guidelines and any other marble
info you can sell. The counter top is about 1-1/4" thick and
is an L shape with a rounded edge on the short L and scored water
drain lines at the long end. I feel so lucky to have found this and
want to treat it with the respect it deserves. Thanks so much Maurizio.
Sincerely, Maureen McWaid, Reply |
R1:
Dear Maureen: Unless you want to joint my next stone restoration class
scheduled for January 19-21, there’s not much that I can sell
you to make your marble top come beautiful again! Your only option
is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly
grind (hone) and polish your stone.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7865:
my builder has just applied two coats
of acrylic sealant to my new slate floor, unfortunately they have
also sealed in quite a lot of grout that was not completely removed
before sealing. Do you know of any products that will remove acrylic
sealer effectively - so we can start again. Regards, Ryan, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ryan: Yes, I do: You will need a paint stripper based on Methylene
Chloride. You don’t want to be around when they’ll use it!
When I was a contractor they couldn’t pay me enough to use that
stuff! I really don’t know why it’s still legal, but to
be best of my knowledge is the only one that works. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7864: Hello
I just saw a Beautiful piece of slab of Brazil Blue Bahia on a Master
Bathroom Floor. My question to you is that the installers had to grind
down a lip about 4ft wide. The problem is that you can see a cloudy
appearance from when they did the work to remove the lippage to make
the slab flat. The customer wants it back to a factory finish like
the rest of the floor. Well, anyway I have tried a sander/polisher
Matebo with the Ceramica Ex 1000grit 2000grit, and the 3000grit diamonds
then polished with tin oxide at 1800-2000rpm. After doing that it
still show the cloudy appearance nothing has helped. Do you think
that when they grinded that they ruined the crystals in the granite
where it does not pop the shine or the crystals anymore in the granite
or do I have to use at least 185lbs of my weighted machine to work
this out to heat this granite to take out this line that was grinded
down. Your comments are well appreciated in ever way. Thank You for
your time and Patience, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Joe: The customer is 100% right: they expect factory finish and
that is what they must get, considering the amount of money they paid
for that stuff. Bring a scrap of Blue Bahia to my upcoming stone refinishing
class in Philadelphia (January 19 – 21) and will teach you how
to polish that thing to factory finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7863: We
purchased an Ubatuba counter top and have several questions about
the quality of the stone and installation. The Cove bull nose edge
looks very dull. Our installer said it is because the edge has to
be polished by hand. The bull nose at the seams is also not blended
very well, it is wavy and appears to dip and rise from one piece to
the other. Are these problems typical with this type of edge? Also
the seams appear to be joined poorly. We have a line of epoxy just
shy of a ¼” thick at both of the seams. Other counter
tops I have seen have seams that are almost invisible. Please Help.
Thanks Ted, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Teo: It looks like “Michelangelo” struck again!!
The edges are dull because they have to be polished by hand?? So what?
Just polish them (by hand or by machine – who cares!) and make
them shiny as they are supposed to be. It’s not difficult polishing
edges. The size of the seams and the way they join on the edge is
not acceptable and way beyond industry standards. Demand replacement
or - better jet – your money back. (replacement made by the same
“genius” will probably be the same crapola.) You have a
case.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7862: I
had absolute black granite counters installed in my kitchen. The installer
sealed them. There are five surface scratches and three of them that
are on top near the edge have an orange color. What would cause this
color and how do you fix this? I am trying to have the fabricator
repair this and would liike to know if it can be repaired and is he
doing it the correct way. Thanks, Sel, Reply |
R1: Dear Sel:
Your fabricator should have never sealed your countertop.
About the color of the scratches, I have no clue. Can they fix them?
There are probably no more than a couple of dozen stone restoration
contractors all throughout the country that could pull a job like
that off. Will your fabricator be in this exclusive selected elite?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7861:
I have what would appear to be absolute
black (it looks absolutely black!) square countertop tiles in my kitchen.
I have one glass "ring" mark. From what I have read, you
suggest using a clean cloth and acetone to remove it? Is this not
just essentially removing the surrounding color to match the ring?
And If so, must I acetone all the countertops so they will match.
I fear a drastic change in color and or dullness of the surface. Am
I going to own a grey and white kitchen instead of a black and white
kitchen? My husband would be a little shocked to come home and see
a big difference in his investment.
Sincerely, Katherine, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Katherine: Let’s start by saying that when one mentions
“Black Absolute Granite” one’s talking about a huge
variety of stones coming a little bit from all over the planet, each
and every one of them not a geological granite by a long shot, and
each and every one of them with different characteristics. If that
wasn’t confusing enough, each and every one of them are processed
with even if so slightly methods – which again can make a difference.
There used to be three possibilities to explain the problems that
you are experiencing, which are here listed in order of probability
(the first being the most probable):
The fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to it believing that
it’s granite. No impregnator/sealer will ever be absorbed by
black granite; therefore it won’t do the first thing about doing
what’s designed to do, which is prevent stains. (What you have
are NOT stains, and no impregnator/sealer on the planet can prevent
those.) Many a sealer turn out to be sensitive to acids; hence the
“mysterious etching.” Not on the stone, rather on the sealer
that had no business being there.
The slab had been “doctored” by the factory by applying
some sort of black shoe shine in order to make it “blacker”
and, therefore more “sellable.” After a while the “shoe
shine” will begin etching as it gets eaten away by acidic spills.
The true color of the stone is gray.
It is one of those as-rare-as-a-white-fly “mutt” stones
with some calcite binders in it. In this case it is actually the stone
that gets etched.
In the last couple of years there’s been a change in the scenario
above. Another possibility has entered the scene:
4. Certain manufacturers
apply some sort of protective wax to the slabs. It is not actual
“doctoring,” since there’s no alteration to the color
of the stone, but the result is the same as if the slab had been
“doctored” with the “shoe-shine.”
Finally, case 3 above
is not as rare as it used to be anymore. At least a couple of “Black
Absolute Granites” allegedly from India and China entered the
scene recently and are terrible “mutt” stones. Since they
are cheap (to the importers) they push them like crazy at full black
absolute granite prices.
Having said all that,
the remedy to the points 1, 2 and 4 is to remove whatever it is
that’s sitting on the stone surface, by either stripping it
chemically by soaking it with Methylene Chloride, or mechanically,
by rubbing on the stone surface a polishing compound for marble
(NOT for granite!) with a little bit of water.
Case 3 is terminal.
All things considered, black granite – which should be considered
among the most enjoyable materials as a kitchen countertop –
has made it out my own list of recommended stones.
Until the industry will not straighten its act up by becoming serious
about the classification of all the different “granites”
on the marketplace and dictate strict rules and guidelines about
their characteristics and implied guarantees to the consumers, my
position is going to be that from now on. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7860:
I have installed stone in our new bathroom.
We sealed the stone before grouting. We then grouted and it is too
white-not good against the stone---Is there a way to apply something
that will slightly darken the grout?? Thanks Mike, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mike: I still have to understand the fundamentals behind this
thing of applying an impregnator to the stone before grouting (assuming
that your stone needs to be sealed at all to begin with), but that’s
beside the point. I also don’t see what the fact that you applied
an impregnator sealer in the stone can have any connection with the
color of the grout. At any rate, there are products designed to stain
grout. You can try at a retail outlet that sells tile and stone near
you.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
