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If it can't be done with granite, do you know of a stone that could be used for this purpose? Thanks for your help with this, Carl, ReplyR1: Dear Carol: Unfortunately I have no experience whatever in a matter like yours; therefore I don’t have the answer to your question. If I have to through a wild guess, I don’t think that the granite will ever get hot enough to ignite the wood, but to damage it (warp, etc.) … I really don’t know, sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8058: What can you tell me about “Autumn Wheat” granite? I have looked at a lot of granite and quartz granite substitutes and found that I really like this particular granite. I have not done the lemon juice test yet, but will on the small sample that I have. Can you tell me if this is unusually porous granite or will need an impregnator and about how often might it require sealing under normal kitchen use? Reply R1: Dear Joni: I did see that stone not long ago at an industry convention but never dealt with it. I’m not sure about that, but you will probably have to seal it. As for the frequency, it all depends on the sealer. Some makers recommend to seal every year, but if you use my outlandish MB-4 you will only need to seal every 10 years. Regardless of all that, it appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8057:
We had a mirror fall of a wall and on to a marble top (white gray marbled
color). It looks like it damaged about a 4 – 6 long strip as the
mirror fell. It now appears as a white mark crossing the different swirling
of colors. Is there an inexpensive/easy way to touch up/ repair this as
it is a small area almost in the corner of the vanity? Q 8056: We recently had granite countertops installed but the seams were not flush. Our contractor sent "his people" back in to satisfy us and take care of the problem by grinding the seams down. Now we have a dull surface on each side of the seam. The contractor's "people" now advise us to purchase and apply an expensive Ager to make it appear shiny. I think they need to come back and polish the stone; this can be done properly, correct? Thanks, Gary, Reply R1: Dear Gary: The “Ager” – a product I know very well – is a stone color enhancer. It will make up for the loss of depth of color, but it will do nothing to increase the shine (better said: the lack thereof) of the stone. Yes, you’re right, it can be re-polished, but there are probably no more than a couple of contractors all throughout the country that can do that. It doesn’t seem to me that your fabricator is among them. They should have never evened out the seams by grinding them. There is a much more efficient way to do it, without fooling around with the factory-finish of the stone. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8055:
We are currently remodeling our kitchen and new granite counter tops were
just installed (Creme de Bordeaux). Unfortunately, the rounded and leading
edge of the counter you first see as you enter the kitchen has some construction
defects (large glue fill-ins and mismatch of color) that disturb me. I
believe the work is sloppy and substandard and detracts from the rest
of the kitchen. Could you give us your opinions: (1) is the work sub standard?
and (2) can it be field repaired reasonably w/o replacing or removing
the counter? Q 8054: I am considering using Steel Grey, Verde Butterfly or New Uba Tuba granite countertops in my new kitchen.. I am in the process of acquiring some samples and I therefore have not yet tried the Lemon juice test but I was wondering if you think these types of granite were a good choice to be used in the kitchen and if any of them would need to be sealed? Thanks, Tom, Reply R1: Dear Tom: The stones are good, but how good is the human factor?Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8053: We installed kitchen counters and large Island Granite (Verde Lavaras) approx. 3 months ago. I am finding it difficult to keep it shiny especially around the sink areas where it is exposed to water. Not a staining issue but rather what looks like slight discoloration or a film at the sink area that is simply not shiny. I have been using Windex and paper towels to clean the Granite but wonder if there are better products I should know about. Also, in regards to sealing - I was told we'd need to seal every 6-12 months, could it be that we should already seal??? Any advice/suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance, Reply R1: Dear Michelle: First: Verde Lavras does not need to be sealed. Second a sealer for stone is not meant to, and in fact it does not affect the finish one bit: they are all below-surface sealers and every single bit of the stuff must be removed from the surface of the stone. It could be that there’s still some residue of the original sealer that had no business being there in the first place and that the fabricator didn’t not remove thoroughly enough that’s creating the problem. Try to clean your countertop with acetone scrubbing real hard (no green or brown pads, though!!!) several times and than take it from there with my MB-5 (or MB-17) and MB-13 team! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8052: I don't know what products I can get here in Vienna, Austria but since I came here from NY as a VP at ABC TV, I have a few connections left there. I recently bought an apartment here. Most of the apartment is a lovely natural marble from Egypt. We are the 1st real occupants but the developer used the place for partes, etc. for a few years. The problem is that the finish is dull. We'd like to get a little shine and brightness in this darkish marble (I could email you a picture!). We were told only to use soap, water and a mop. (When wet the marble looks great--for 5 minutes!) Do you have any helpful thoughts for us? Thank you in advance and happy holidays. Harve, Reply R1: Dear Harvey: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8051: I have been looking for granite but some that I liked, failed the lemon test. I came across one that I like but it is a "quartzite." I am told by the dealer that it is "harder" than granite. I have searched your site and the web to educate myself on this stone but I have not found much. Would you be able to shed some light on this? The specific quartzite that I am looking at is called Golden Green, if that helps. I believe it is from Iran. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks... Gary, Reply R1: Dear Gary: If hardness is a deciding factor for you, then what your dealer told you is false. Quartzite is not as hard as granite and most commercial granites. However, it seems to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8050:
I have about 60 square pieces of jet black granite. All are 3/4",
in a few sizes betweeen 18" x17" to 25"x 25", square
edges with a slight radius on the corner. Q 8049:
I'm in desperate need of some advise and I'm hoping you can help. I recently
bought and moved into a house. While cleaning the living room I accidentally
spilled some glass cleaner on the white marble fireplace. As soon as I
noticed I immediately wiped up the glass cleaner with a water dampened
paper towel, and then dried the marble as best as possible. Now the marble
has darkened areas and a dulled appearance where the glass cleaner had
been. The glass cleaner contains surfactants, ammonia, modifiers, and
blue dye (concentrations and exact chemicals are unknown). Is it possible
to reverse the damage???? In addition, there appears to be brown stains
on some areas of the marble. The nature of the stains are unknown as they
are from the previous owners. What do you suggest I try to remove these
stains? Q 8048: Last year i remodled my home and installed tumbled marble countertops. I sealed them and really didn't experience any problems cleaning. However, i rented the home out --and now that i am preparing to move back in, the tiles have not been maintained - are stained and need some major TLC. I am wondering what i should do before re-sealing. Additionally, some of the grout in the joint between the backsplash & counter has cracked. Can this be repaired without removing the grout? Many thanks. Sharon, Reply R1: Dear Sharon: About the cracked grout: No, it can’t be fixed without removing the damaged one first.About the staining issue: Assuming that the stains you make reference to are darker than the rest of the stone, your first priority is to remove the stains. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8047: hi, i had a black slate countertop installed in my kitchen two years ago. it was sealed when first installed and i've sealed it every 6 months, unfortunately it looks awful. i don't cook much and i haven't abused it in the least. is there anything that can be done to make it look new again? please help. thanks. JOHN, Reply R1: Dear John: I really have some good news for you: It’s only money!! :-)Now, answering to your question, the most elaborated answer I can come up with is, “NOPE!” You’re only option is to rip out the stupid thing that does not belong there to begin with. But hey, see the good news above! Of course, like it often happens in life, you may have an option. For instance you could go back to the merchants who sold you that stuff for your kitchen countertop project while reassuring you that all you had to do was sealing it and enjoy, and ask them to solve the problem. Most likely you will have to get in line because they’re too busy “selling it” and have not much time for petty chicken dropping like maintenance, but if you’re patient enough your turn will come and they will tell you everything you need to know to take care of the wonderful stone they sold to you! You know, they know everything about slate and then some. Just sit tight; it’s going to be any day now, any day … Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8046: I was wondering if you had any words of advice on a honed granite slab for a kitchen. The slab is named Antique Brown, and may also be called Marron Cohiba, and possible as Marron Bahia. I very much want a honed product. I read about your Lemondrop test and it seems to do fine, and have read about the perils of honed black granite. Should it be sealed with an impregnating sealer for safety? Any additional comments? Much appreciated. David, Reply R1: Dear David: Never consider the selection of the stone as the determining factor of your decision. By the same token that guns don’t kill people, but people kill people, stone doesn’t hurt (financially) people, the people who handle it do! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8045: I read your whole column today and am a little mixed up now and would like another question clarified. I understand about the lemon juice test and will do that for sure. Now, I am thinking of Black Galaxy. Is this a hard or softer granite….. and given all the specks, will it show finger prints,etc? OR am I better off with an Uba Tuba…Reply R1: Dear Judie: Black Galaxy is among the hardest stones available for a kitchen countertop. But so what? Are you going to consider the choice of the stone as the determining factor of your decision? Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8044:
Hi, not sure how to post, so hope an email is ok. Please help... Q 8043: I found a beautiful stone that i would like to use in my bathroom. the seller (who sells kitchen and bath related things) said it was a sandstone called durango. in my web search have only turned up durango travertine. a) is there a durango sandstone and can it be used as a countertop and b) will durango travertine work in the bathroom, where likely spills might include toothpaste, shaving cream, hand lotion, perfume, etc.)? i do not know if these are acidic or not. is there any way to find out which normal bathroom products are acidic? Reply R1: Dear Meredith: I’m not at all surprised about the “knowledge” of stone displayed by that sales person! :-)There’s no such an animal like Durango sandstone. Durango is travertine from Mexico – end of the Durangos! Like any other calcite-based stone, Durango is indeed sensitive to acids and other pH active substances. However, with proper care and by avoiding the most common pitfalls, it could be quite enjoyable. It’s also very dense and no impregnator/sealer is necessary. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8042:
I would like to know if anyone has had any experience with a granite named
Black Morgan. I have also seen it named as Black Marinace. It is a unique
granite that looks like a river bed with large river rocks imbedded in
a black background. I just don't know how it will look as a kitchen countertop.
I wonder if it would look "too busy." I can't find anyone who
might have had this installed to go look at it. Has anyone seen this granite
installed in a kitchen? Now you have a stone that looks like EXACTLY like a river bed, right? Would it surprise you too much if I’d tell you that’s because it is EXACTLY what it was?! Now, granite is – by its own geological definition – an igneous rock (the solidification of a molten mass) of a certain specific list of minerals that’d be useless listing for the purpose of this little analysis. My question is: do you think that there is even the remotest chance that a solidified molten mass could ever get to look EXACTLY like a river bed?? All this to get to ask the final question: HOW ON EARTH COULD ANYBODY EVER COME UP WITH THE SICK IDEA TO CALL THAT THING GRANITE??! :-) Having said all that to joke around a little bit, it appears to me that, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8041:
I am having the same problem listed on your website (ring marks) with
my black granite. The company who installed and sealed my granite is coming
back to strip the seal with methylene chloride. I had a few questions. It’s highly toxic and a proven carcinogen. You don’t want to be around when they use and at least for a good hour after having left all the windows of the entire house open. As a former contractor I used that stuff only once many years ago and decided that there was not enough money in the entire planet that could convince me to use it again! There will be no MC residue left, because it’s 100% volatile. There could be some other chemical left on the counter, due to the fact the MC never comes straight up. It’s always part of a paint stripper. Using generous doses of my MB-5 will take care of that. There’s a better, faster, chemical-free (well, almost, but nothing toxic), odorless and definitely effective way to remove those kinds of “ghost stains.” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8040:
I don't have the name handy, but we installed a veiny creamy/buttorscotchy
yellow/grayish marble on our bathroom vanities. When isntalled they were
shiny and they are definitely sealed (by contractor and again by overzealous
husband). They've been in a little over the year and in some areas it
seems like the color is washing out (it gives off the look as if toothpaste
has dried on the counter and left white dullish areas.). My conjecture
is that it has something to do with the chemicals and saline solutions
we use for our contact lenses. My question is: have we permanently damaged
the marble? My husband says it is impossible to 'take the color' our of
the marble, and that we should be able to clean it with a good marble
deep cleaner product. I cleaned it yesterday, first with Glass Plus (no
ammonia) and then with very well diluted stone cleaner and it still dried
to the dull whitish look (in various areas). Needless to say, you can try to “clean” those “stains” ‘til you drop, but they’re never going to disappear! Is you stone ruined permanently? If you don’t do anything about it, yes, it is; but that doesn’t mean that it can’t be repaired. Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8039: Just had ubatuba installed in our kitchen. We couldn't use the sink right away so a mixing cup with oil and water sat on the counter overnight. We now have our first oil stain. Is the acetone poultice safe to use on the ubatuba? Also, should this stone be sealed? The installer had it sealed but I was wondering if I should seal it four or more times as you suggest for some of the other stone types? Thanks for your help. Steve Ziehl, Reply R1: Dear Steve: Sealed or not sealed, if you leave oil sitting on a stone countertop overnight, you will have a stain! Ubatuba does not need to be sealed, and the fact that it was sealed goes to prove my opening statement. Sealing some more won’t do you any good.On the other hand, removing an occasional (and rare) stain is no big deal! Yes, the poultice with acetone will work (if you know how to poultice). And no, no mineral solvent could ever affect any natural stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8038: Hi, Would you know of any places to purchase soapstone countertop in monmouth county? What is your opinion on using this material? I love the look, are there any drawbacks? Thanks, Allyson, Reply R1: Dear Allyson: You mean Monmouth Co., New Jersey? (I live there.)No, I wouldn’t know where to go to find soapstone, but that doesn’t mean that nobody is carrying it. Have your fingers do the walk and look on the Yellow pages under the classification: Marble Natural. As far as my comment on soapstone is concerned, it’s thumb-up in my book. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8037: I am having new countertops made for my kitchen. The color is Uba Tuba. My questions are twofold: 1) Is this a reliable countertop for a kitchen? 2) At the same time we are having a half wall between the kitchen and dining room made into a bar. The wall is 6" wide and 8'9" long. The granite installer has suggested support brackets,4 of them, (8") be put installed prior to the slab going in. If I have to install support brackets I would much rather use wood corbels. Would this be a good choice and give the support I need? Thanks, MC--in NJ, Reply R1: Dear MC in NJ: 1) If the slab is a good-grade, and if it’s fabricated and installed right, and it’s not sealed, then, yes, it’s indeed a terrific choice. 2)Yes, you can use wood corbels.Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8036: I have a slate shower floor and walls, installed 18 yrs ago with a couple of resealing in that time. It has much white streaking (discolouring?soap?) which appears to be on the surface. A rub with soft wirewool and/or a wipe with a slate cleaner described as "soil removing agent and cleaner" doesn't have much effect. Is there some process whereby it might be brought back to its rich finish before resealing? Frank M. Reply R1: Dear Frank: “Maintenance of slate”? I wish I knew something about it! Unfortunately, no matter how many times I tried to question several merchants who sell the stuff on its maintenance requirements, they were all too busy selling it to pay any attention to me (and you, for that matter)! Do those whitish streak disappear when you wet them? Let me know. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8035:
I just happened upon this site while looking for tips on what to do with
my granite and also how to rid my toilet bowls of hard water lines. I
won't aslk you about my toilet bowls, but if you have any tips, I would
certainly welcome them! Besides, I assure you, that if they don’t come off with regular cleaning (even simply a damp cloth) the “stains” that you have are not created by water, and are not in the “granite” either. I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. I also know that your fabricator is the sole cause of your problem. Considering the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair that you give them the opportunity to rectify the situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8034: What is a "bridge" on a granite countertop? There was an error in the cutting of our granite slap and the Granite man wants to fix it by making a bridge? He explained that he would cut another piece and lay it on top, sand it very flat and it would look like a single piece of stone, not necessarily one stacked on top of another. He said this is sometimes done in very high end homes. We are anxious to close on our house and this seems a viable alternative. What is your opinion? Lynn, Reply R1: Dear Lynn: It’s unheard of, technically not doable, and a total hogwash. Tell your “Michelangelo” to bridge the teeth of his sister, and then to get out of town! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8033:
I have some low-grade inexpensive "Granite" pre-fabricated Polished
Absolute Black countertops that have some water (who knows what else)
spots and minor scratches. I'm guessing the mutt "Granite" is
from China. I'd like to know what will remove the staining/water spots?” A polishing powder. Providing, of course, that you know how to use it and that you have the right equipment. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8032: I am planning to install tumbled slate tiles in our shower. Is there anything we should know before moving forward? ie. discoloration, cleaning, sealing, etc. Thanks for your help. Reply R1: Dear Takayasu: “Is there anything we should know before moving forward?” Yes, absolutely: what you should know is that you do NOT want slate in a shower stall! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8031: I need advice on how to repair a cracked slate tile. The piece is dark gray/black and belongs to my husband, a retired Navy Senior Chief. My husband was given this piece of slate with artwork painted on it by his Navy buddies commorating his promotion to chief. During my remodeling of his "navy" room I had the piece laying on the floor along with numerous other certificates, diplomas and pictures to be placed back on the walls after I had finished the room. I was ready to hang it today when our daughter came to me and said I'm sorry, I stepped on that piece of tile and broke it. The piece is not completely broken, it's still hanging together but the crack goes all the way across from left to right. I put some tape on the back to hold it together until I found a permanent way to repair it. What should I use to glue it back together so I can hang back on the wall. Vickie, Reply R1: Dear Vickie: The ideal glue would be epoxy, but it’s hard to get and very difficult to handle. There’s a glue called “Gorilla” (it goes on black and dries clear) that’s very close in performance to epoxy but easy to get (even in the internet) and to apply. Now that I gave you the solution are not going to kill your daughter or somethin’ anymore, right? :-)Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8030: We
built a new home a year ago. We had granite countertops installed. They
are light in color. We have an under counter mount sink. After months
of being in the home, we noticed darkening around the edge above the under
counter mount sink. We had the granite company come out and they thought
it was water so the resealed the sink to the counter. After weeks the
stain did not disappear. The granite company came back out and they removed
the sink and found an oily substance on the top of the sink where it was
mounted to the countertop. They think it was plumbers putty. They used
a paste stain remover and applied it to the rim of the counter and top
of the counter but the process was done incorrectly and the stain was
worse. After getting instructions on how to use the stain remover, they
applied it again, covered it in plastic, had us remove the plastic after
24 hours, let the stain remover dry out and then they came back out and
cleaned it away. Some of the stain is gone but some still exists. Are
they performing the process correctly by putting the stain remover on
the top and side (above where the sink was mounted)? The stain was absorbed
through the counter top at the point where the underside of the counter
meets the top of the sink. At any rate, the technique and material that they’ve been using lately is apparently correct, but it will take many more attempts. You can’t even dream to remove a Plumber’s Putty stain so deeply imbedded in one shot only! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8029: I
have enjoyed looking through your vast helpful tips. I am considering
some granite countertops I saw and could not find a question about this
type. I beleive the stome is from India and is called either Lady Dream
or Amber Fantasy. I belieive it is actualy a gneiss not true granite. In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Trust me, with a stone like that, the choice of the right fabricator is paramount! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8028: I just laid a floor of azul cielo in a bathroom which to date has not been sealed. Should I seal it? ReplyR1: Dear Joe: Azul Cielo is a porous stone, which is the first prerequisite for the application of a good-quality stone impregnator, such as my outlandish MB-4. The second requirement to justify a sealing job is the answer to the following question: “What could I possibly spill on my bathroom floor (coffee, cooking oil, ketchup, mustard, dark soda, etc.) that could possibly stain it?” Keep in mind that a sealer for stone does one thing and one thing only: it helps prevent imbedded stain, period. No surface protection whatsoever, no protection from acidic spills, nothing. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8027: I am considering using "Imperial Blue Green Quartzite" for a kitchen counter. Is it considered a good choice for a kitchen? How does it compare to granite, for example? ReplyR1: Dear Robert:
It does not compare well with granite and most commercial granites. Too
darn absorbent and even the best sealer will not perform at their best.
However, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? R1: Dear Thom: (where
are you in NJ?) What do you mean by, “No one here has any idea why
this is happening”? You mean to tell me that the fabricator who made
your top doesn’t know what’s going on, although it’s so
darn obvious??! Was the floor restored incorrectly? Should a chemical been used instead of a grinding machine and water. Can the floor be repaired by another restorer and can the rust stains be removed? Can limestone be damaged by too many restorations? Reply R1: Dear
Sheila: I hate it when I have to deliver bad news! But even if it’s
a lousy job somebody’s gotta do it! So, here it is: You have a combination
of problems that start with the stone itself. In fact, I always preach
left and right against the use of limestone. Second, I’m afraid that
you have open grout lines. (Was that floor installed butt-joint, perhaps?)
If that’s the case, the water used to grind and hone your floor found
its way under the tiles and the moisture is now migrating to the surface
through the core of the stone itself. Since many Limestones have iron
mineral within, there you have your rusting! Under the circumstances,
and forth, the last thing you should have done to your floor was to apply
an impregnator/sealer. In fact, the impregnator is dramatically slowing
down the migration process (of the moisture), thus giving the water more
time to dwell and oxidize the iron mineral, thus increasing the severity
of the rusting of the stone. Grinding and honing using water is the correct
way to do the job, but the variables I mentioned above should have been
taken into consideration. Can it be repaired now by another company? I
sincerely hope I’m wrong on this one, but I don’t think so. R1: Dear Tisha: I must assume that those dark spots are nothing by cooking oil that was absorbed by the stone. Which leads me to believe that your countertop was not sealed properly. Keep in mind that green marble (most likely serpentine) is more absorbent that true geological marble and does require to be sealed with a good-quality impregnator, like my outlandish MB-4. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8023: I put a light grey marbel basin in, now I notice it is becoming very dark around the edges, If this is coming from the water how can I get it back to light? Thank You, Dwaine, ReplyR1: Dear Dwaine: A marble wash basin? You mean that the actual basin is marble? Is it installed on the contest of a vanity top, or is it free standing? What kind of marble is it? Are you sure it’s real marble and not cultured marble? Is the dark discoloration kinda of dark brown – almost black? If that’s the case and if it is real marble, then it may be some sort of mold/mildew forming within the stone. I do have an incredibly good stone cleaner for the purpose, namely MB-9 mildew stain remover, which will have to poulticed on the stain for better result. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8022: I am trying to choose a granite countertop for my custom crafted walnut kitchen cabinets with burl grain raised-panel doors (made these myself, and it is awesome!. Can you recommend a granite that will complement this, have a light tone primary color like cream, gold or white, have some warm tones, provide good contrast with the walnut, and has sufficient resistance to absorption? One that I found that has wonderful cream and brown colors is Golden Beach, but I am unsure if I like the wild movement of grain in the pattern across the entire slab. What can you say about the pros and cons of fleck vs.movement styles of granite? Is one more popular or absorbant than the other? Thank You. Ron, Reply R1: Dear Ron: For
openers, I’m lousy interior decorator. I’m even 25% colorblind,
for crying out loud!:-) Thanks in advance! Cheers, Prabhu, Reply R1: Dear Prabhu:
I don’t know the first thing about that particular marble; therefore
I have no idea how resistant it is against a mild acid such as ureic or
other acidic and/or staining agents. R1: Dear Judy: When
something sounds too good to be true, it usually is! Engineered stone
is no exception. It’s a tough material indeed, but it’s not
as “bullet-proof” and maintenance free like their promoters
would like consumer to believe. On the other hand, those (somehow entirely
non complete) claims are the only real “weapon” they have to
fight a fight that would not have any contest without them! Many commercial
granites are just as dense as e.s. (and require no sealing at all), and,
for other aspects, they are tougher and require less care than it. But
this, Judy, is not really the point. R1: Dear
Karen: Do you remember one of the songs in “The Chorus Line”?
“Everything is beautiful at the ballet!...” I still LOVE my choice, but am concerned that... Am a taking care of it properly?? Or was it not sealed properly?? Can you help? From what I read I'm a bit confused about "sealing" granite? What should I have expected from the company? Thanks sooo much.. Happy with Merinace!! in Massachusetts... Jean, Reply R1: Dear Jean: Your stone is a weird “animal” indeed! Due to its inherent diversity within its structure it’s among the most “doctored” “granite” (why on earth they call that thing granite is beyond me!) in the industry. Needless to say, all this “doctoring” – which is meant to make the texture of the stone as uniform as possible – is nothing but some sort of makeup; and we all know that makeup doesn’t last forever! At any rate, your case present an interesting (and quite amusing) … revelation: not only did your fabricator gave you the wrong advice on the product to use for routine maintenance – which, alas, is quite usual – but he went as far as precisely indicating a specific one! As if he knew what he’s talking about when it comes to clean stone!! :-) Now, I really don’t know about this System 113M that you have to apply every two months to your countertop, but it sure sounds impressive! Just as impressive as it’s probably useless: I never heard of any “system” (whatever that means) that has to be applied every two months!! If it’s a sealer for any chance, the breaking news is that Verde Marinace doesn’t need any sealer! Not only that, but if for any chance it’s a solvent-carried sealer, then there are very good chances that the solvent removed the “doctoring” right away! Consequently, the dullness that you have now could have something to do with that “system” thing and, very definitely, with the dish soap. At this point, I really don’t know if your stone can be brought back to its original factory finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8017: I am contemplating on buying a Green Reef garnite (?) for my kitchen countertops. I cannot find any information about this particular stone anywhere...could you please advise if thsi stone is suitable for kitchens ? Thank you Pavel, ReplyR1: Dear Pavel:
I’m not completely familiar with that stone, but it really doesn’t
matter. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? The engineered stone will cost about the same as granite $6500. I have 75 sq.ft of countertops. I would appreciate any help you can give me. thanks---Jean, Reply R1: Dear Jean: Ubatuba is one of the many commercial granites that are as care-free (actually better) as any engineered stone. Very definitely, if cost is not a major consideration, a slab is much better than tiles. However, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8015: I just had black honed granite countertops installed today. I purchased them through Home Expo. There are a lot of gray cloudy areas throughout the stone. The installers applied a "sealer" and told me I could clean with soap and water tomorrow. I am really nervous about these gray areas - can they be removed by cleaning or some other method. Thank you for your advice. Lalah, ReplyR1: Dear Lalah: The
first big mistake was to get honed black granite countertop: it is a maintenance
nightmare as you can tell by the trail of tears soaking this very site.
The second mistake was to purchase from a fabricator who didn’t know
how to properly hone your countertop. The hone finish should be uniform
all throughout. The third mistake was the application of an impregnator/sealer
to your countertop: you do NOT apply a sealer on black granite to begin
with, let alone a hone-finished one. The only hope to minimize the maintenance
issues attached to such material is to apply a stone color enhancer instead.
Finally, the forth mistake was the suggestion to use soap and water for
routine cleaning. Again I called the manufacturer technical support. They told me they had no idea what the problem was but suggested an old tilesetters trick. Apply a solution of half mineral spirits and half boiled linseed oil. I did this. It has dried for now for 5 days with my heat turned up and fans blowing. It is not oily but has a tacky feel. We tried using a blow dryer for several minutes on one area. It didn't seem to change anything. I do feel it is probably dry but this tacky texture shows every footprint so that is not going to be acceptable. I'm wondering if the heavy duty stripper and cleaner will take it back down to the bare slate. If I ever get it to the bare slate, what do I use to give it a bit of shine and make it look darker. The original sealant really didn't do that. I also have new multi-toned slate in my kitchen that I was wanting to seal but after this nightmare I'm afraid to put anything on it! Do you have any suggestions for me? Is there a fee for your services? Thanks so much for your help! Cindy Peck, Reply R1: Dear
Cindy: First, you investigate about good sealers and ended up with the
worst in the industry (that's how most contractors consider that product).
Regardless, applying an impregnator to your slate was your first mistake,
not to mention that you apparently applied it wrong. R1: Dear Don: Your
only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will
lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.Now, you'd better watch out!
I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities
related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there
are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! R1: Dear
Linda: You're confused, all right! :-) R1: Dear Jas: Most green marbles and a few others are acid resistant to a certain extent. Most other marbles are not resistant at all to corrosive agents. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8010: I've been shopping for granite slab for my kitchen island, and so far I like the 'Black galaxy' the best (to match with my baltic brown granite tile on the rest of my kitchen counter). Is this a good granite for countertop? The best price I found is about $900 installed for a 36" X 84" X 3/4" slab, does it sound reasonable to you? Oh, the stone is from China. Thanks, Christine, ReplyR1: Dear Christine:
For openers, if it comes from China it can't be Black Galaxy! (It only
comes from India). 2. When buying granite, do we pay for what we use, or are we required to buy whole slabs? Thanks in advance for your assistance! Reply Dear Laurie: It all depends on the fabricator
and the type of stone you choose (size, grade, etc.) Thank you for your response! Annette, Reply R1: Dear Annette: Occasional use of bleach in most commercial granites should not cause any harm, but soaking your stone with that much bleach at a time to remove a stain that will probably not come off with bleach (you'd need something else)... well, I don't have the answer (you don't expect me to test intensive use of bleach on any "granite" that there is out there, do you?!), but I wouldn't feel too comfortable myself. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8007: I accidentally left a rag with oven cleaner chemicals laying on our granite counter top. The top is predominantly black with some silver specs throughout. Where the rag was left sitting, it is now predominantly silver, very obvious, with almost no black. Is there any kind of fix for this? Thank you, Jack, ReplyR1: Dear Jack: Yes, it is possible, but you will need the services of an experienced stone restoration contractor, hoping that in your neck of the woods you can find one of those 12 or 13 (all throughout the country) that could pull that off and match factory specs. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8006: I came across your name from several posting on the findstone.com website, would you please be so kind to answer a quick question I have for you. I have limestone floors in my foyer and I've noticed some small holes in the stone, what would you recommend for repairing them: (1) epoxy glue, (2) cement-based grout, or (3) something else. I know you always tell people to tear out the limestone and install something else but I don't have the money for that. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much Jeff, ReplyR1: Dear Jeff: My very favorite is color-matching caulk. Fill the hole and then shave the filler flush with the stone surface with a razor blade. Clean around it with a wet rag making sure not to touch the filler in the hole. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8005: We just installed a Bertch Marble top double sink vanity top in ourbathroom. I had ordered this over a year ago and it has been stored in its box. My husband does not think this is real stone, but I do. (It was about $500.00 on sale). Anyhow, it has some scratches and little tiny dings in it, and I would like to know what should be done to minimize these, prevent further ones, and in general to protect this top so it will last awhile. What can you tell me? Margaret, Reply R1: Dear Margaret: Your husband is right. Therefore I can't help you: I allegedly know a thing or two about natural stone, but I don't know much about manmade material. You're best bet is to go back to the merchant you bought your vanity top from. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8004: We had Azul Imperial (a quartzite) installed on our kitchen island (4' x 8') in August. We had some concern that the installer did not put the steel rod/plates under the stone to support it or that the stone is under stress. It turns out that we just got a crack running from 6" from the edge, down the edge, across the seam ( oggi edge ) and underneath it. The crack has expanded back up to form a V I called the stone supplier, they said the stone is very hard and it should not crack. What could possibly cause such a crack? I am planning to contact the fabricator/installer but I want to make sure I'm saying the right words to him. Thanks, Jill Horn, ReplyR1: Dear Jill: So the stone dealer didn't know that "granite" while very hard is also fragile, huh! Wow, they sure know their stuff!! :-) Cracks alre alway - and I mean always - a consequence of poor installation. The cabinet were not probably leveled and there was one or more tension point. Hence the crack. Rodding could have helped, but the real issue are the cabinets. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8003: I have 6 marble tiles on the floor in front of my fireplace which have become stained by pet urine. Is there anything I can do to remove the stains? Thanks.Susie, ReplyR1: Dear Susie: If the stain is kinda yellow, then you will have to remove it by poulticing it. If it's a dull spot instead, then you will have to repair the surface damage by using my outlandish marble restoration kit, which just so happens to be on sale! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8002: I have a "Granite" bathroom counter top that was purchased at Home Depot, and in reading some of your advice it most likely is a calcite blend, (was not expensive). My wife cleaned our "Granite" top with a cleaner that left "water spot" looking stains on it. I read the cleaner directions and it stated not to use on stone products.This cleaner apparently etched the stone. Is there anything, (short of professional refinishing), that can be done to eliminate the etched spots? What about a mild abrasive, (MB11), then polishing, (MB7)? Thanx for your advise, Pete, Reply R1: Dear Pete: If it's aclssifed as "granite", then I doubt that MB-11 could possible help you (though it might). MB- is a topical finish for floors, meant to delay wear and tear patterns. What kind of "granite" was that? Could you at least tell me the color? Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8001: At work I accidentally dropped a permanent marker on the stone floor. The floor is some sort of limestone or soapstone w/ a mild sheen, porous, yellow/beige in color, and is pretty "talcy". I was able to successfully get the stain out, but it required lots of scrubbing and I believe I scrubbed off the light sheen that was there... how can I restore that, so there isn't a big "scrub mark" there? Thanks for your help, Kay, ReplyR1: Dear Kay: Without even knowing what kind of stone it is, there's no way I can't give you any suggestion. However, typically it is not a DIY project. Sorry that I couldn't be of any further assistance. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8000: I have spent several hours reading the questions and answers on the website. I have learned that honed travertine is a good choice for bathrooms and light granite can have a good deal of absorbancy. What I would like to know is which is better for a bathroom counter the honed travertine or a polished light granite? I understand that a lot depends on the particular granite chosen. I am concerned about stains from makeup and liquid soap. If the granite is the better choice, do you have suggestions for light colored ones that would complement a travertine floor and shower surrounds? Thanks you so much for all the great information posted on your website! Karen, ReplyR1: Dear Karen: I would go with honed travertine. Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7999: I am about to begin a remodel of my kitchen. We will be changing the countertops, floors and appliances. The cabinets are made of natural unstained cherry which were made in 1987. They have formed a lovely patina. I would like to use a green, not to dark granite and am thinking about something called COSTA SMERLODA and MIDO GREEN. Their shades appear similar, although I think that Mido green may be alittle more gray. WHich one would you reccomend? Or perhaps you can suggest another pretty, somewhat soft in color green? Thanks, Pam, ReplyR1: Dear Pam: Please,
leave me out of the decoration business! I'm strictly a mechanic and 25%
colorblind to boot! :-) R1: Dear Jain: If your claim is legit - it does sound so - don't pay them until you're satisfied. And when all is said and done, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7997: We recently hired a corp. to install granite countertops on our kitchen. They came to our house late in the afternoon and did all the cutting in our backyard. When they attempted to install the granite to the sink area, they didn't continue because our cabinets were a little over 1/4" off leveled. They demanded that we should level the cabinets and would charge us extra money if they have to come back. Is the levelling something that the installers should consider in the process? Can they work around that? Thank you. Tina, ReplyR1: Dear Tina: There are nos standards ona subject like that. Certain fabricators bite the bullet and do the leveling themselves (it's not fair though in my book). Certain others stand their ground and won't work for free at doing someone else's job (the cabinet maker). Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7996: we just had installed "Baltic Brown" It is so pitted it look terrible. The builder says the light the color the worse the pitting. I went to Home Depot and theirs is not like that. I think I got a bad piece of "granite". ReplyR1: Dear Joe: Stone
doesn’t create problems: people do! That is why, when somebody asks
me to give them a list of what I feel are the most suitable “granites”
my answer is: “The fabricator – end of the list!!” R1: Dear Pat: Let
me tell you a true funny story: over 15 years ago, when I was strictly
a stone restoration contractor, I was looking for a decent product line
to offer to my customers at the end of every job. I never found anything
suitable and, out of frustration, I decided to make my own product line.
Something that would make sense, for a change! Little did I know back
then that it would become my main business one day! R1: Dear Gale: Your fabricator sounds like
a good, knowledgeable professional, and he seems to stand behind his jobs!
It’s really refreshing, considering all the “Michelangelos”
I have to deal with every day through inquirers complains and gripes!
I can’t comment on the dull spot without actually seeing it, but
if you can live with it… (I know I could!) About the sealing issue,
he’s absolutely right: you do NOT want to seal that stone! It is
not as much the hardness as it is its natural density. Basically, id doesn’t
absorb anything. R1: Dear Kerry: I’m not really familiar with fireslate. I do know is a manmade material manly made of Portland cement mixed with silica (sand) and processed under a very high pressure. That should make for a strong material, but I believe that the issue of acid etching inherent to all concrete countertop is still the major drawback. And if that’s is the case, there’s no solution to that problem. So, very definitely, run my little lemon (and oil test) on a piece of scrap to find out. Soapstone is two thumbs-up in my book! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7993: I have read that you don't believe that this is a good stone for kitchens I am interested in a golden colored stone without any pink or peach. Can you recommend another stone I should look at? The slab I found at Belstone in NJ was called Kashmir Gold but doesn't look like any other stones with that name that I have seen. It has no pink/peach in it and has long areas of black wavy lines throughout the stone. Any help would be appreciated. Aliza, New Jersey, ReplyR1: Dear Aliza:
You’re asking your question to the wrong guy: I’m 25% colorblind!
:-) I’m afraid, however, that you’re starting your granite adventure
with the wrong foot! R1: Dear Tina: I really don’t
know exactly what it is, but it’s certainly not granite. But it really
doesn’t matter. Your question is: how good a stone is for a kitchen
countertop? And my answer is: that stone – like any other stone –
is as good as the fabricator! granite 12X12 granite tiles on an existing laminate countertop. Do you suggest using hardibacker over the existing laminate or can I set the tiles directly on the laminate using fortified thinset? Is it acceptable to butt the tiles directly to each other to achieve a more solid look???? Last but not least, which granite do you recommend to better withstand the beatings of a 3 year old boy, Uba Tuba, or Verde Butterfly?? I know you indicate Uba Tuba does not require sealing, does the Verde Butterfly?? Which of your products do you recommend for daily maintainence of the granite? Do you stock any dual purpose products that would also help me care for the new bathroom floor and shower I just installed in tumbled marble (My first project! You guys earn every penny you charge for installation!) Thanks, Reply R1: Dear Diane: I
strongly suggest using hardibacker. No, you do NOT want to butt-joint
your tiles. 1/16” grout gap is “your man”. If the installation
of the tiles is done right (no “lips”) I like to use color-matching
caulk instead of grout. Push it in as deep as you can and the “shave”
it flush with the surface of the tiles with a brand-new razor blade. Finish
the cleaning with paper towel and acetone as the caulk begins to harden,
but before it cures completely. Caulk is somehow shiny, flexible and totally
stain-proof! Ubatuba and Verde Butterfly are pretty much on a tie. They
are both Charnockite, they are both very hard, and neither one needs to
be sealed. R1: Dear Jane: those glass block will easily hold your granie bar, a Panther tank on top of it, and you and the rest of your family inside the tank!! :-) I would use epoxy glue to hold it in place. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7989: I work for a church that has a 50 year old stone floor in the front of the auditorium. The floor looks to be made of granite (white with black flecks - possibly fake granite?). Evidently, around ten years ago, a carpet with backing was installed down the centre of this floor. We now want to remove the carpet and just use the bare stone floor, but the backing of the carpet seems to have stained the floor yellow. The backing seems to be made of jute.cleaning the area with a good detergent (Ivory or stone soap) and clean cold water, then applying a poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder I've been reading through your site, and haven't yet seen this problem, but am consistently impressed with the answers I see here. Do you think this solution by the ntcs is a good one? Would you suggest anything better? Many thanks, Andrew, Reply R1: Dear Andrew: I really don’t know what kind of chances you will have to remove that old stain, but that procedure is the one that I would suggest myself. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7988: We have a new house that has Granite countertops. During our initial inspection with the developer and contractor, we noticed that the island countertop in the Kitchen has an area about 20% of the entire surface that was not shiny and looked smudged. We are not sure the name of the Granite but one contractor stated he thought it was from China. Looking at the samples in the website it matches G682 from China in appearance. Anyway, we noted on the contractor punchlist that the countertop was not acceptable and that they needed to get the large smudge out from the finish. One week later they brought in a countertop guy that said he would buff the countertop with find polishing cloth and use a cleaning solution on it. He then applied a black compound on it and used a buffer with water spray to work the counter surface. After he was finished it was worse. The smudge area was still there and in fact it was larger. Also, the black compound stained the countertop to a darker finish. When my wife complained he stated he could not do anything further and his boss needed to look at it. The general contractor is now bringing in the boss after we have been complaining three more weeks but we are not confident they can fix it. Is it ruined and must be replaced? Thanks, Rodney, ReplyR1: Dear Rodney: Is it ruined?” Probably not. Most likely it was a poor grade slab and if that’s the case nothing can be done to rectify a natural flaw. “Must it be replaced?” Without actually seeing it I can’t tell for sure, but for what you’re reporting and if my suspicion is right, probably yes, especially considering that when it comes to surface refinishing they obviously have not a clue about what they’re doing. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7987: Are conglomerates, such as Verde Marinacae (Bahia, Brazil) good choices for kitchen counters? Are there special characteristics I should look for? Thanks. Mary. ReplyR1: Dear Mary: Yes,
you used the right definition: conglomerate (I love you already!); but
I’m sure you know that’s not manmade. In other words is a natural
conglomerate. However, in its natural state it’s very brittle and
therefore the material is heavily resined. (Also to give it the appearance
of a uniform polish.) There’s nothing really wrong with that, but
it makes it somehow a little “tricky” to “understand”.
Just bear in mind that if you won’t maintain it right it will eventually
lose its finish and nobody will ever be able to restore it. If your kitchen
is light to medium duty it’s okay. If it’s heavy duty instead
… I wouldn’t go for it. R1: Dear Megan: Giallo Ornamental does need to be sealed. Benedito Black does not. Your installer is a total idiot when it comes to maintenance of natural stone. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7985: I have some questions to conduct you and hopefully you can advice me your professional opinion. We are building resorts near the beach. Before, we are using marble tiles and now we are considering using granite tiles. Since our resorts are located in front of beach, and our resorts are wide open, will the breeze do damage or stain on the granite tiles? Will it be difficult to maintain the granite floor? Is it a good idea for using a granite tile for floor and countertop for our beach resorts? Second question, how can I erase the stain from a marker on the granite tiles? Your prompt reply will be highly appreciated. Again, thank you very much for your help. ReplyR1: Dear Jeffrey: You’re not really telling me the nature of your stain, or at least what it looks like. What kind of poultice did you use? Where is the stain (what do you mean by: “near the kitchen area”)? Answer these questions and then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7984: I would like to get your maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations (if it's not too expensive) since I plan to install marble on my shower walls and floor. I bought the marble from HD Expo Center, and hope that your manual will advise me on the type of adhesive to use for the wall installation especially, then on how to maintain the marble. I have already bought greenboard for the walls so I plan to use this even though I have read on your site to use the cement board. Please reply to this email, and let me know the costs of the guidelines and your address and I will send a check in the mail. Thanks, Jack Courtillet, ReplyR1:
Dear Jack: The adhesive
that you have to use is white thin set. Optionally, there’s a type
of white thin set made by Custom Builders and available at the HD which
is fast setting (you can grout after 2 hours) that’s very suitable
for that kind of installation. For the rest, you will find helpful hints
about installation in my guidelines, but you insist at using a green board,
you’re starting out with the wrong foot, and no guidelines will ever
do much good for you. R1: Hi back, Mitchell! Removing a scratch is very much like removing the hole from a doughnut. You eat the doughnut and … tah-dah! … The hole is gone! Of course, I understood perfectly what you meant by removing scratches, but the little joke I told is to make you understand that you have to actually remove part of the stone around the scratches, down to the depth of the deepest scratch. I’m sure you realize that, but if you relate the whole process to a hard material like commercial granite and as difficult to refinish like black granite, then you will begin also to realize that’s no easy feat! It is possible, of course, but I don’t think that there are more than a couple of dozens stone refinishers in the whole country that could do that. Will one of those precious few be available in your neck of the woods? You’e gonna have to find that out by yourself, I reckon! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7982: My brother is an idiot..and he put slate down in my parent's bathroom.I told him to clean up the grout as he went, but I am a girl and do not know what I am talking about. He has left town, there is grout remaining on the slate, in deep crevices and in the uneven surfaces on the top of the slate. It's been 3 weeks since it's been grouted, and I am left to clean it up. How in the world do I get the grout off the slate? Is there any chemical? Is there an easier option besides chiseling it out on my hands and knees? Can I use a sander? Will that scratch the slate? Please let me know if there is any way to fix this mess and save the floor, while keeping it from looking like crap. Thank you greatly, Alida, Reply R1: Dear Alida: I’m sorry to have to let you down, but there’s no easy solution to your problem. Using a steel-bristled brush would work, but damage the slate by badly scratching it. Using a chemical, the typical chemicals to remove grout residue are acidic, and you can’t use anything acidic on slate. So But you know what? You really do NOT want a slate floor! The maintenance issues with most slates are huge and with no solution. Hey, it’s only money! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7981:
I have two questions and one is more urgent: We just finished installation
of Durango travertine flooring tile and I am still working at sealing
it. Today we moved the piano into one of the tiled (and sealed) rooms
and the piano wheels scratched the floor! There are tracks six feet long!
Is there anything I can do myself to remedy this? The tracks are lighter
than the stone. I tried going over it with more sealer but it didn't work.
The finish on the floor seems honed. It is not shiny. What other mantainence
do you recommend for travertine floors in general? My tile is in the kitchen
and in high traffic areas. Q 7980: Hello. What granite colors for a kitchen countertop would you recommend to go with oak color cabinets? Susan, Reply R1: Dear Susan: What granite color, you want to know? My answer is: a good fabricator!! (Besides, I’m no interior decorator! :-)) I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7979: We are redoing our full house and
we are getting Italian marble flooring installed on 3 floors. Our initial
choice was either Perlato Sicilia or Fillato Roso, but our contractor/builder
is pushing us to accept something called Classic Beige. Q 7978: We had 500 sq. feet of travertine floor put down in our kitchen/dining area last May. We, unfortunately, were not aware of all the problems inherent in travertine. We are now quite distressed, since the floor looks blotchy, spotty, dirty in some parts and shiny in others. We have contacted a professional stone restoration person who says the floor needs to be resurfaced to make the stone look duller and to be resealed. Is this what needs to be done? Will taking off the shiny finish be what is needed to make the floor look good? By the way, is there anything good about having a travertine floor? We haven't found it yet. Thanks very much, Betsy. Reply R1: Dear Betsy: There are lots of good things about a travertine (or marble) floor, but certainly not if you install it a kitchen dining area, as you already found out by yourself! How to minimize the “damage”? Follow the recommendation of the stone restoration contractor you contacted: have the floor restored to a very low-hone finish instead of polished, have an impregnating sealer applied and … enjoy! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7977: I have been reading through your postings and finding problems that seem similar to, but not exactly, what I am experiencing with a “black granite” vanity top I have recently installed. (I have read enough to know that there is no such thing as “black granite” but don’t know the name of this stone – it looks very much like pieces of Absolute Black I’ve acquired, although the grain size is a little bit coarser than the Absolute Black I have). When dry, the vanity top looks very nice and shiny. However when I ran a damp sponge over it to dust it off, I noticed several streaks in the finish that appear to be the color of the dry stone, as if the water cannot “wet” the surface in these areas. When the water dries in a few minutes, you can’t even tell where the streaks are. Is this normal for this kind of stone? Is it possible there are some scratches in the finish they used on the stone that would only appear when wet? It’s not a glaring stain, but since this is a vanity I imagine it will occasionally have water on it and show up these marks. Should I return it? Thank you for any feedback! Mark, Reply R1: Dear Mark: Quite honestly I never heard of such unusual … phenomenon! Typically, it’s the other way around: the “stains” are visible when dry and “disappear” when the stone is wet. There’s only one thing I can think of: did they apply an impregnating sealer to your stone? That could be the culprit. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7976: I own a small building that has
black absolute 12” x 12” installed. It has had a lot of traffic
over the years and therefore the color has faded in the high traffic areas.
I just hired a “professional” to bring the black and shine back
and now all of the area is evenly grey. Is there anything that will bring
the black back? He is telling me that the industry doesn’t commonly
produce diamond pads of high enough grade to bring it back. Thanx for
any help you might have. Q 7975: WE have recently installed a slate floor in our kitchen. In one area where something was dropped a top layer has begun to flake off. Is this consistent with all slates? I'm afraid we bought a low grade, it was from The Great Indoors. How do you uninstall slate? AMY, Reply R1: Dear Amy: Not all slates are so susceptible to de-foiling, but if they don’t have that particular problem, they have some other one. Slate in general is the last thing that one should ever consider as flooring material, let alone in a kitchen. How do you un-install it? Very simple: rent a jack-hammer!, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7974: I have just tried to clean my black terrazzo calcium encrusted shower with a "calcium remover" CLR...when the terrazzo dried....it all looked like I just spread the calcium around the shower instead of removing it. I have guests coming next week and I need to have that shower looking decent ASAP. I live in a small town in Texas so finding a professional within a light year is somewhat out of the question. Thank you in advance for any advice. Barbara Van Wie, Reply R1: Dear Barbara: The CLR, which is a highly acidic product, damaged irreversibly your terrazzo shower pan; hence the total loss of the depth of color. If when wet it looks okay, then the periodic application of a good-quality stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6 will do the trick for you! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7973: I have a cultured marble vanity top with a sink. The sink has lost it's shine and was wondering if you know how the shine can be restored. Reply R1: Dear Lee: Unfortunately I have not the foggiest idea. I’m rumored to know a thing or two about natural stone, but I don’t know the first thing about manmade plastic material. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7972: Is Dakota Mahogany (Dakota Bordeaux) a true granite? Does it need to be sealed? Thanks, Dalej, Reply R1: Dear Dalej: Dakota Mahogany is a true geological granite, though with several “impurities”. Most of the times it does not need to be sealed, but “most of the times” doesn’t mean, “all the time”, does it?! Test one piece of scrap to make sure.Now, I hope that you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7971: We are designing a terrazzo external paving with large decorative details details (approx. 3metres long). I was looking to do these details in marble slabs. Is it possible to use the acid etching that will be used on the terrazzo to give slip resistance to the marble? is there any issue I will need to be aware of with the mixing of the marble and terrazzo? Any advice or guide on where to look for information will be much appreciated. Tom L. Reply R1: Dear Tom: As for the acid-etching the answer is, yes. There will be no problems. About the installation, have the marble inserts installed prior to the grinding of the terrazzo and have the whole thing ground at the same time. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7970: I have not yet chosen my granite. I was leaning toward Giallo Napolean. I hesitate after reading your site. It seems to have past the lemon test, but is there a harder alternative in that color scheme. Thanks Cindy, Reply R1: Dear Cindy: I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7969: I am installing 3cm Giallo Napoleane granite in my kitchen, new construction ( they do not give you a lot of choises). Any problems with this granite and please advise me of benefit and draw backs of different edges . I cannot decide on the edge. DemiBullnose, bullnose, etc the standard choises. Kind Regards, Suzanne, Reply R1: Dear Suzanne: (forget the “Mr.” thing, will you?!) 100% Bullnose! If it’s a good-grade slab and it’s well fabricated and well installed and properly sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator, you will be enjoying your countertop for many years to come! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7968: I read through your questions and answers and I am still confused. My kitchen counter is Granite called Venetian Gold. The granite is graint and becoming dull in certain areas. What cleaner can I use and do I use your Stone Enhancer and Sealer? Thanks, Rosa, Reply R1: Dear Rosa: Unfortunately you must be dealing with a low-grade slab that was doctored with the application of some wax of sorts to mask the naturally flawed spots. The use and routine cleaning of your countertop has removed the “makeup” and now you can finally see what you got! The application of a color enhancer or an impregnating sealer will do absolutely nothing to solve the problem. Your best bet is to get some paraffin wax with which rub the flawed areas in a way to fill the grits and pits, and then buff it with a “00” steel wool pad. (You will need lots of elbow-grease, too!) Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7967: I need your help for my Granite tiles floor. My layer has made granite tiles (factory polished) floor in my flat. Size of tiles is 2 ft X 1 ft. After laying I fond tiles are not level properly, i.e some tiles are projecting up. On telling the problem layer has grinded the tiles near the edge to correct the level, but now it is looking very odd as polish has gone from grinded patches. My layer is telling that nothing can be done now. please advise how to restore the polish surface in grinded area, Regards, Kumar, Reply R1: Dear Kumar: You’ve gotta be kidding me!! Tell your “Michelangelo” that he should be setting granite tiles in jail! Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will professionally grind, hone and re-polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7966: We are currently in the process of building & I am starting to investigate Kitchen options. We wanted to go for the black granite benchtop however the kitchen "expert" at the shop is steering us toward Caesarstone. Caesarstone is a quartz "compound" they claim is harder (more durable) never needs maintenance or polishing & lower maintenance than granite.... but of course more expensive. What is the care & maintenance involved with a granite benchtop & in what ways is it better (if it is) than caesarstone? Thanks muchly, Deanne, Reply R1: Dear Deanne: The quartzite-based manmade stones (a.k.a. engineered stone) are gaining momentum by presenting themselves as the anti-granite. Most of their claims are false and unsubstantiated. They are understandable, too: the promoter of engineered stone wouldn’t stand many chances to sell their manmade stuff if they were out telling the truth! And the truth is: Engineered stone (e.s.) is NOT any harder than most commercial granites. Many of the latter are actually, even if so slightly, harder. Therefore the scratch resistance factor is the same if not slightly in favor of the real thing. What’s more, although not so easy, it is possible to find a few stone restoration contractors who could repair a scratch from most commercial granites; I still have to meet one, or even heard of one, who could do that on e.s.It is true that e.s. does not require the application of an impregnating sealer, but many a commercial granite doesn’t need that, either. (I.e.: as in your case, black granite. You do NOT want to have that sealed!!) And for those that do, the application of a good-quality impregnating sealer will take care of the problem. What is also true is that while e.s. is indeed stain-resistant (like many a commercial granite) it is NOT totally stain-proof. I did see a couple of oil stains on e.s. The removal of these (rare) stains could represent a problem, because the solvent best suited to poultice them out could damage permanently the resin part of e.s. Although is not recommendable as a routine practice, one could put a pot off of the stove directly on any non-resined commercial granite surface, one could not do that on e.s.: the resin part would get permanently damaged by the heat. Because of the high percentage of quarts (up to 96%) the routine maintenance requirements for e.s. are the same as for any commercial granite. No you can draw your own conclusions. Bear in mind that I do not sell or fabricate stone. I’m simply a stone restoration / maintenance man. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7965: I recently purchased "Santa Fe Brown" granite for my countertops and had the granite honed. The resulting surface has an uneven splotchy appearance, almost like water spots. My installer says this is the nature of the stone and nothing can be done. He indicated if I had chosen a different granite that it would have had a more evenly matte appearance. Any suggestions? I live in Atlanta, Ga and the installation is on Lake Sinclair about 1 1/2 hours from Atlanta. If you know of a reputable restorer in this area that I could consult I would be grateful for the referral. Charlene, Reply R1: Dear Charlene: Your top was not honed right, end of the debate! No, unfortunately I don’t know any stone restoration contractor in your neck of the wood that I could refer you to, but a quick check to your local Yellow Pages (usually under the classification of Marble and Terrazzo Cleaning) will give you a listing of what’s available. If they can hone granite they will tell you so. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7964: I have recently installed 8X8 unfilled Travertine tile in my shower. I believe it was called Antiqued Alpoco. At any rate, I want to bring out the natural look of the Stone as it is when it is wet. Do I use a stone enhancer first and then seal with a Sealer/Impregnator? Also, I installed 12X12 Cloud Green Quartzite floor tiles through out the house. Same question, Do I enhance first then use a Sealer/Impregnator? Lastly, I am having Verde Butterfly Granite counter tops installed. Any thoughts or comments on Verde Butterfly. I bought Tile Labs, Deep penetrating Sealer from Home Depot. Will this work on all three surfaces? (Travertine, Quartzite, Granite) I look forward to your response! Thank You! Shan, Reply R1: Dear Shan: A good quality stone color enhancer (like my outlandish MB-6) is a good impregnating sealer as well. Therefore you do not need the product that you mentioned, which, BTW, is considered by many as the worst performer on the market. Therefore, the way I see it is as follow: MB-6 on your tumbled travertine. You do WANT the holes of the stone filled in a shower stall, however!! MB-6 on your quartzite. Nothing at all on your Verde Butterfly. Charnockite doesn’t absorb anything – not even the impregnating sealer. Good-quality specialty daily care products for your stones, which are much more important than the sealing issue! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7963: I need help. I live in a remote location of North Carolina and although I'm dealing with a wonderful contractor, the local experience with granite and other natural stones for a kitchen countertop is very limited. I'm essentially on my own in finding something that is durable, low maintenance and will last. I love to cook, hate to clean (who does) and have three kids so my kitchen is a high traffic zone. I was originally planning on installing honed absolute black granite as my kitchen counter, but based on my initial research I got scared off. I then looked into Soapstone, found it to be dense but too soft, and I also didn't like the idea of rubbing mineral oil periodically. I then stumbled onto New England Slate, non-porous non-staining, but scratches, although I believe these can be easily sanded out. The common theme I like in these three options is the "look" - they did not have a glossy high-polished shiny finish. I wanted a "flat" or "matt" finish. Grey, black, greens - all good colors. But after discovering your website and reading many Q/As, I'm wondering...I know you don't recommend honed absolute black granite, but please correct me if I'm wrong, it seems most of what you don't like about this countertop option can be solved by using a stone color enhancer (MB-6) to "stain" it uniformly - therefore making it a good choice for my kitchen. Thoughts? But I'm not stuck on "absolute black granite" - is honing a problem with all granites, or is it just the absolute black? And then finally, because I'm in a remote area, and I'm not yet sure how or where my countertop will come from, is the honing process done on site and therefore requires significant skill? If so, is the New England Slate the better option? Unfortunately, because I'm on my own, (no local showrooms, dealers, distributors...) I'll have to tell my builder EXACTLY what I need (probably where to get it) and hope my description is perfect so the product I end up with is what I expect. Thank you in so much for any advice you can provide!! Sincerely, a very confused internet shopper! Reply R1: Dear Beth: Oh boy, girl! Black absolute hone-finished and treated with a good-quality stone color enhancer will not present the major problem related to this particular material finished in that particular way, but it will always be a difficult surface to clean. Use as an example polished stainless steel opposed to its satin-finished counterpart.Slate is a HUGE NO-NO!! Just forget about it! Soapstone is good, but with the limitations you already pointed out by yourself. What else is left? This side of schist (Pietra di Cardosa) or silicate sandstone, not much, really. If you can’t stand a polished finish, my vote goes either to a light-colored hone-finished granite (still treated with a color enhancer like my MB-6), or soapstone. Mineral oil is tasteless and 100% food grade. Now the question is: is there a good stone fabrication facility not too far from where you live? Remember: the human factor is galactic ally more important than the selection of the stone and should be the only true deciding factor! None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7962: Is there anything that will seal and prevent staining on gray limestone countertop? Thanks for your help. WALTER CLARK, Reply R1: Dear Walter: Any good-quality stone impregnating sealer (like my outlandish MB-4) will do the job of preventing staining on your limestone countertop. However, nothing in the entire Milky Way will ever do the first thing at preventing “stains” (“Water stains”, “water rings”, etc.), which are actually etch marks (marks of corrosion) and, therefore, must be classified as surface damages, not stains. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7961: We recently renovated two bathrooms.
In the en suite we had a floor to ceiling shower and tub surround installed
as well as floor, and in the other bathroom just the floor. As for the lack of shine, stone is polished by abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by applying a sealer on top of it. It will take a trained stone restoration contractor to polish your limestone, assuming that it’s one of those limestones that can take a polish to begin with. As for the high degree of absorbency of your limestone, yes indeed a penetrating sealer, a.k.a. as impregnator (like my outlandish MB-4) must be applied – and several times at that, with an interval of at least 24 hours in between applications – to avoid the deep penetration of the water. Therefore, you will have to stop using that shower, let it dry completely, apply the impregnating sealer, and wait at least 24 hours after the sealing job is completed before you use that shower stall again. All this, of course, hoping that the installation is not faulty (i.e.: butt-joint tiles, etc.). Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7960: I am just starting to shop for
Granite Slabs to be fabricated for my Besides, if you allow me to say this, it appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7959: This is bad problem that became worse on bad advice. I have a black stone countertop in the bathroom. The finish appears to a have milk-like film on it as compared to the much darker black granite in the kitchen. A small spot has been burned into the finish on the bathroom countertop resulting in a brown colour. I was given advice to remove the burn with very fine furniture polishing sand paper. I did and it appears to have been a big mistake. I believe the stone must be recoloured and repolished. What are the steps in the procedure? Chris, Reply R1: Dear Chris: The restoration procedure by itself (honing and polishing) will bring back the color.Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7958: I saw a reply by you and would be interested in opinion on the cleaning of some stone slabs that I have. They are Moroccan fossil limestone that are polished but not yet sealed. What could I use to clean the white looking streaks and or stains? Thanks for your time. John, Reply R1: Dear Holly: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7957: Could you please tell me what relative moisture level one might expect travertine tile to have in a shower that is professionally installed? I am asking because I recently had my shower/tub area totally reconstructed. I moved into a house about 7 months ago and within a month found that I had significant mold and water damage to the framing of my house due to the former owners not maintaining their ceramic tub surround. A long story short, I had the entire corner of my house torn out and reconstructed. In lieu of a large soaking tub (original equipment), I had a custom shower installed. I hired professionals and they seemed to do a great job (based on looks) Everything is plumb with 90 degree angles and the proper 1/16 inch grout lines. I believe they used quick set concrete for the walls and floor and had the entire pan and bench hot mopped. 511 Impregnator was used as a sealer on the walls and floor (from what I am told). Recently, we have had a lot of rain here in So Cal and I purchased a moisture detector/sensor (GE Protimeter). It measures the relative moisture level of non-conductive and porous materials such as concrete and tile. Anything over 30 percent is considered to be "damp". based on the User Guide. I am getting readings from 40 to 90 percent relative humidity. The radio frequency will penetrate up to 1/2 inch. Based on my prior experience, I am a bit sensitive to potential moisture issues. I have a window in my shower that I leave open when not in use so as to provide some ventilation. Sign, Reply R1: Dear Charles: Without having the possibility of inspecting your shower, it’s impossible for me to speculate. However, the kind of reading you’re reporting it is too high to be disregarded. Is it possible that the heavy rain of the past days found its way behind those travertine tiles somehow? Are the grout and caulk lines still solid (no cracking)? The presence of an impregnator applied so soon after installation is definitely a disadvantage. Contrary to popular misconception travertine is an extremely dense stone and it doesn’t take impregnators happily, especially in a shower stall where it has to have any possible chance to breath. Sorry that I couldn’t be of any further help. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7956: I just spilled a bottle of clear nail-polish on my black granite (absolute black) kitchen floor. Help!! Thanking you in advance for any help you can provide. L. Hoffman, Reply Dear L. Hoffman: How about a cotton ball and some nail polish remover?... :-) Unless they made the mistake of applying a sealer to your countertop believing that’s granite, you won’t have any problem. Mineral solvents do not affect stone. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7955: I just had a granite countertop installed and after the installers left I noticed a fine white line that runs across the width of the countertop. It seems to run all the way through the thickness of the slab since you can see it on the edge. The granite is Black Galaxy. I called the installers and they are telling me that "fissures" are normal. However, it detracts from the looks and although the crack is undetectable by touch, I can feel it when I run my fingernail across it. I'm also concerned that this will worsen over time. Obviously, I want them to take care of this, but from their response I believe I may have trouble. In your opinion, should I accept their answer. I know you haven't seen it, but to me, a crack is a crack, regardless of what they call it. I believe that their is an implied understanding that as a buyer, I don't want cracked granite. Any info would be helpful, Reply R1: Dear Norman: Fissures are common to many commercial granites, but they are never through and through. What’s more important, I never heard of a single case of a fissure in Black Galaxy! I don’t need to see it: that’s a crack, you don’t want it (and rightly so), end of the debate! If you find resistance, you may want to consider having your lawyer write “Michelangelo” a “nice” letter. Many times it works. Keep me posted! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7954: hi i want to know what country is the best granite from? here in the philippines granites from italy are best known but i dont like their stones and when i finally picked a stone i like the owner said it is from greece, and thats the first time i heard a granite from greece. are granites from greece better than italy ones? thanks, Reply R1: Dear Alain: Commercial granites are the most popular stone in the entire planet. Sure, there’s “granite” in Greece, as there’s “granite” in the Philippines and anywhere else!Having said that, the Man Upstairs did not invent geography! The country of origin of a stone has nothing to do with what could be considered its inherent quality. One may say that if a certain “granite” is processed in Italy is better than if it’s processed somewhere else, (better technology and know-how) but the stone is what it is, no matter where it comes from. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7953: Hi. We installed some black galaxy granite as a kitchen countertop about a year ago. Recently I placed a bottle of commercial floor cleaner with oxidizing agents (the kind you buy at the supermarket – nothing fancy) on the countertop, and left it there for about a week. Now there is a very obvious white discoloration in the shape of the bottle that appears etched into the surface. I had no idea that something so seemingly harmless as floor cleaner could cause this and am really hoping that there is a simple solution. Is this a sealant issue or something more problematic. Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Regards, LAR, Reply R1: Dear Laurel: Without actually seeing the damage that you’re reporting to me, I can’t venture any guess. It does sound unusual, though. Is there any way you could send me a couple of pictures? Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7952: I am choosing Juparana Lapidus as my "granite" surface in my kitchen. How does this hold up as far as etching and staining? I can't imagine much would show on it as it is a rather "busy" pattern with a lot of movement. I can't find much about it on the internet though so I wondered about its popularity and usage. Thanks! Jennifer C. Reply R1: Dear Jennifer: Never mind the stone – mind the man!!Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7951: Please help! Have you any background on Verde Peacock, Peacock Green from Brazil. I've been told by many that it's a granite and other a syenite. Reply R1: Dear Catherine: It’s neither. It’s Charnockite.Are you perhaps on the market for a “granite” countertop? If that’s the case allow me tell you that you’re starting out with wrong foot! The stone should never be the first factor to be taken into consideration. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7950: Do you recommend a specific sealer for Jupurana Wave? Reply R1: Dear: Of course I do! My outlandish MB-4 – what else!! J Joking aside, it’s an excellent product and comes with a 10-year warranty. It means that it needs to be applied every 10 years, opposed to every year or so of many other competing products. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7949: We're thinking of having Jerusalem
Gold for the floor and walls of our Q 7948: I am looking for as much info as possible on "Waterfall Green" granite, and have seen very little mention of it on the Internet. The supplier says it is from Brazil; the reference on the Internet states Italy as the origin. I am thinking of using it for a countertop, and would appreciate any and all information about it. Thank you very much. Reply R1: Dear Lisa: I don’t know much about that stone, either. But what difference does it make?Starting from the selection of the stone is starting with the wrong foot! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7947: We're in the planning phase of a new kitchen and thought that I wanted a "honed" finish on my granite. After reading your website however, I am thinking twice. I love the flat finish on the honed granite but use my kitchen too much to not have a very durable non-absorbing finish. Any way to get that look without compromising? Thanks, Beth, Reply R1: Dear Beth: When you lose gloss, you automatically lose depth of color. In other words, a honed surface is always of a lighter color that it’s polished counterpart. This translates into “surface staining”: anything wet (perspiration, water, oil, etc.) will make the stone appear as dark as if it were polished. The difference is more dramatic with dark-colored stones and becomes a real issue with black granite.What to do? Instead of applying an impregnator sealer, a color enhancer for stone (like my outlandish MB-6) must be applied. Such product will give you in a permanent way a uniform wet look. In other words, you will still have your hone-finished surface (the product is below-surface), but the surface staining won’t be visible any more because the whole countertop will be as dark as if it were polished. The only issue left will be the cleaning. You do know that’s much easier to clean a polished stainless steel surface than a satin-finished one. Well, the same thing applies to a honed granite surface – which could be correctly defined as a satin finish. Remember, however, that the stone should never be the determining factor of your decision. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7946: It was recommended that I use a paste wax to seal the table tob against any water spots. After applying as carefully & evenly as possible I was very disappointed at the outcome. It was very uneven & looks smeared. What do you suggest for a nice even application? Thank you, Reply R1: Dear Adrianna: You will never prevent “water stains” or “water rings” on a polished travertine surface with a paste wax or anything else for that matter. Get rid of the stupid wax you applied already. (If you don’t know how without damaging the stone surface, ask the genius who suggested you to use that stuff.) Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7945: I love marble as oppose to granite and I want to put either Crema Marfil marble or Jerusalum Gold /Ramon Gold limestone in our master bathroom on the floor, shower walls/floor and around the Jacuzzi. Is the Jerusalum gold a true limestone and is it ok to put in the shower? If so, how should I have these two types of stone sealed – or should I not seal them? I really want to make sure the installer does it right so I want to do my homework before speaking to him about it. Also, what kind of sealer do you recommend for Carrara marble kitchen countertops (I know it’s not a great choice for the countertop but I absolutely love it in the kitchen). Any insight you can give is greatly appreciated! Regards, Chris, Reply R1: Dear Chris: Jerusalem Gold is indeed a terrific limestone (probably my very favorite). Whether you choose that or Crema Marfil, just seal with a good quality impregnator sealer (like my outlandish MB-4!) the inside of the shower stall. I wouldn’t bother with the rest. Make sure that you installer does no butt-joint the tiles in your floor and shower stall walls and floor! You could use the same impregnator for your kitchen countertop, for as long you don’t expect anything from it other than the prevention of true stains, which are an extremely rare occurrence on polished marble anyway. All the “water stains” and “water rings” you will be getting can not be prevented with anything. That is way polished marble is a very poor choice for a kitchen. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7944: I installed polished copper slate
tiles on a kitchen countertop. After multiple tries with impregnator sealers
(aqua mix-stone sealers choice & tilelab) it will still allow water
to penetrate. Q 7943: We have purchased an American Olean - Vintage Stone/ Natural stone, I am using for my backsplash. My question is do we but in place the tile, I plan on using the fast set motar, (we have worked with it in the past and love the fact that we can grout in minimal time) and was told to seal the tile next, then grout. But will the seal keep our grout from sticking ? Thanks, Paige, Reply R1: Dear Paige: I never heard of that material. However, the idea of applying an impregnating sealer to the tiles prior to grouting is total idiocy! I can’t figure out how such big idea came about to begin with! A sealer for stone will not prevent grout from sticking to the surface of the stone. How could it possibly do that, since it’s a below-surface product and every residue of the stuff MUST be removed off the stone surface before it dries?? If you’re concerned about grout residue, you have to get a grout release product, not a sealer! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7942: Due to a health issue I need to replace my current formica kitchen counter top with a material that will hold up to acholol. I have to alcolhol down my counter tops twice a day in order to take care of an indwelling catheter. Needless to say my counter tops have been ruined. I would like to use stone (i.e. granite or quartz). Recently, I've been told that quartz is being favored over granite due to durability and availability. Is this true and will either product hold up to being alcoholed? If not, will you recommend a product that can withstand my daily routine. Leanna, Reply R1: Dear Leanna: I’m a stone man and I’m not crazy about engineered stone. What I mostly don’t like about it is the fact that their promoters want to present it like a totally bullet-proof material – which is not.The vast majority of commercial granites available are indeed unaffected by alcohol. Choose one that doesn’t need to be sealed, and you will have no problems whatsoever. But you’ve got to know how to shop for one! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7941: I'm looking for a kitchen countertop in the gold range. I think I've read on your site that Kashmir Gold is no good-highly porous. How about Colonial Dream or Golden Leaf? Any better? If not, are there any gold colors worth my look? Thanks. Stephanie, Reply R1: Dear Stephanie: Allow me to tell you that you’re starting your “stone adventure” with the wrong foot and you’re practically wasting lots of time! :-) Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 7940: We just had a bathroom added to our home. We were told that the granite counter top that was installed was sealed. But when it gets wet and if the water is not wiped up in a timely manner it gets dark. Once the water is and area dries up the spot goes away. Would you say that the countertop was not sealed? Thank you for your time. James, Reply R1: Dear James: Either it was not sealed, or it was sealed poorly. Same difference! :-) Here, read this: About the sealing issue, here is an excerpt of my follow up to a thread on the subject of sealing very porous stones that I posted on a different stone-related forum not too long ago: I concur with Dave. Two applications of an impregnator are not nearly enough for a "sponge" like Kashmir White. Keep on sealing!!Which brings up a very important point: I receive literally dozens of e-mails every day from inquirers asking about the suitability of one "granite" or another. Many a granite needs to be sealed, and certain "extreme" one need it real bad. So the question boils down to: If they apply an impregnator/sealer will I have any problem in the future? There's no answer to that. In fact, if PROPERLY sealed with the RIGHT impregnator, the answer would be: “Yes, go ahead and enjoy your stone! But that presumes a "perfect world." And we do not live in a perfect world, do we?!... No matter how good an impregnator is, it is just as good as the operator who applies it. Most of the time, if a stone needs to be sealed the impregnator has to be applied twice (I consider that a minimum requirement, unless we're dealing with dense stones such as honed or tumbled travertine, etc.) But then again, that's only a rule of thumb, because not all impregnators are the same! With very porous stones like the one object of this thread, at least three applications will be necessary. And now here comes the kicker: all impregnators on the market will tell you to perform the second application after a couple of hours or so. My own product reads that on the directions printed on the bottle, too. It's a lie. An interval of at least 24 hours is required for the best performance. So, why I, Maurizio, the inventor of the motto: "Education before any sale!" ever wrote that on my impregnator/sealer? Because I was losing sales to the lies that everybody else had printed on their products, that's why! How many contractors do you think there are out there that will take the time to go back to a certain home three time (or more) in three different days to finish the sealing job??! So, the contractor goes for the "easy" impregnator that says that after a couple of hours you can do the second application! (If they plan to wait THAT long anyway!) I always try very hard to present myself as a model of integrity and act upon it, but there's a limit. I consider the lie that I deliver as self-defense. For integrity sake I can't keep looking at all the other "salesmen" smiling all the way to the bank and me - with one of the best products on the market - losing dealers left and right because I am the only one who printed the truth on my bottle, can I?... All in all, I reached the conclusion that, while I always used to consider a sealing job as a contractor activity, it is much better if the homeowner is going to do it. At least they can take all the time the need. After all it's their possession! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
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