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Q 8059:
I am interested in having a facade made to surround my wood burning fireplace
insert that would come in contact with the insert on one side and a wood
mantel on the other side. My concern is that the temperature of the granite
would become hot enough to either scorch, or actually ignite the wood
mantel. Assuming that such an occurrence could be avoided, how much granite
would have to be placed between the insert and the wood of the mantel
to keep the granite to a manageable temperature at the point where it
meets the wood? Q 8058: What can you tell me about “Autumn Wheat” granite? I have looked at a lot of granite and quartz granite substitutes and found that I really like this particular granite. I have not done the lemon juice test yet, but will on the small sample that I have. Can you tell me if this is unusually porous granite or will need an impregnator and about how often might it require sealing under normal kitchen use? Reply R1: Dear Joni: I did see that stone not long ago at an industry convention but never dealt with it. I’m not sure about that, but you will probably have to seal it. As for the frequency, it all depends on the sealer. Some makers recommend to seal every year, but if you use my outlandish MB-4 you will only need to seal every 10 years. Regardless of all that, it appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8057:
We had a mirror fall of a wall and on to a marble top (white gray marbled
color). It looks like it damaged about a 4 – 6 long strip as the
mirror fell. It now appears as a white mark crossing the different swirling
of colors. Is there an inexpensive/easy way to touch up/ repair this as
it is a small area almost in the corner of the vanity? Q 8056: We recently had granite countertops installed but the seams were not flush. Our contractor sent "his people" back in to satisfy us and take care of the problem by grinding the seams down. Now we have a dull surface on each side of the seam. The contractor's "people" now advise us to purchase and apply an expensive Ager to make it appear shiny. I think they need to come back and polish the stone; this can be done properly, correct? Thanks, Gary, Reply R1: Dear Gary: The “Ager” – a product I know very well – is a stone color enhancer. It will make up for the loss of depth of color, but it will do nothing to increase the shine (better said: the lack thereof) of the stone. Yes, you’re right, it can be re-polished, but there are probably no more than a couple of contractors all throughout the country that can do that. It doesn’t seem to me that your fabricator is among them. They should have never evened out the seams by grinding them. There is a much more efficient way to do it, without fooling around with the factory-finish of the stone. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8055:
We are currently remodeling our kitchen and new granite counter tops were
just installed (Creme de Bordeaux). Unfortunately, the rounded and leading
edge of the counter you first see as you enter the kitchen has some construction
defects (large glue fill-ins and mismatch of color) that disturb me. I
believe the work is sloppy and substandard and detracts from the rest
of the kitchen. Could you give us your opinions: (1) is the work sub standard?
and (2) can it be field repaired reasonably w/o replacing or removing
the counter? Q 8054: I am considering using Steel Grey, Verde Butterfly or New Uba Tuba granite countertops in my new kitchen.. I am in the process of acquiring some samples and I therefore have not yet tried the Lemon juice test but I was wondering if you think these types of granite were a good choice to be used in the kitchen and if any of them would need to be sealed? Thanks, Tom, Reply R1: Dear Tom: The stones are good, but how good is the human factor?Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8053: We installed kitchen counters and large Island Granite (Verde Lavaras) approx. 3 months ago. I am finding it difficult to keep it shiny especially around the sink areas where it is exposed to water. Not a staining issue but rather what looks like slight discoloration or a film at the sink area that is simply not shiny. I have been using Windex and paper towels to clean the Granite but wonder if there are better products I should know about. Also, in regards to sealing - I was told we'd need to seal every 6-12 months, could it be that we should already seal??? Any advice/suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance, Reply R1: Dear Michelle: First: Verde Lavras does not need to be sealed. Second a sealer for stone is not meant to, and in fact it does not affect the finish one bit: they are all below-surface sealers and every single bit of the stuff must be removed from the surface of the stone. It could be that there’s still some residue of the original sealer that had no business being there in the first place and that the fabricator didn’t not remove thoroughly enough that’s creating the problem. Try to clean your countertop with acetone scrubbing real hard (no green or brown pads, though!!!) several times and than take it from there with my MB-5 (or MB-17) and MB-13 team! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8052: I don't know what products I can get here in Vienna, Austria but since I came here from NY as a VP at ABC TV, I have a few connections left there. I recently bought an apartment here. Most of the apartment is a lovely natural marble from Egypt. We are the 1st real occupants but the developer used the place for partes, etc. for a few years. The problem is that the finish is dull. We'd like to get a little shine and brightness in this darkish marble (I could email you a picture!). We were told only to use soap, water and a mop. (When wet the marble looks great--for 5 minutes!) Do you have any helpful thoughts for us? Thank you in advance and happy holidays. Harve, Reply R1: Dear Harvey: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8051: I have been looking for granite but some that I liked, failed the lemon test. I came across one that I like but it is a "quartzite." I am told by the dealer that it is "harder" than granite. I have searched your site and the web to educate myself on this stone but I have not found much. Would you be able to shed some light on this? The specific quartzite that I am looking at is called Golden Green, if that helps. I believe it is from Iran. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks... Gary, Reply R1: Dear Gary: If hardness is a deciding factor for you, then what your dealer told you is false. Quartzite is not as hard as granite and most commercial granites. However, it seems to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8050:
I have about 60 square pieces of jet black granite. All are 3/4",
in a few sizes betweeen 18" x17" to 25"x 25", square
edges with a slight radius on the corner. Q 8049:
I'm in desperate need of some advise and I'm hoping you can help. I recently
bought and moved into a house. While cleaning the living room I accidentally
spilled some glass cleaner on the white marble fireplace. As soon as I
noticed I immediately wiped up the glass cleaner with a water dampened
paper towel, and then dried the marble as best as possible. Now the marble
has darkened areas and a dulled appearance where the glass cleaner had
been. The glass cleaner contains surfactants, ammonia, modifiers, and
blue dye (concentrations and exact chemicals are unknown). Is it possible
to reverse the damage???? In addition, there appears to be brown stains
on some areas of the marble. The nature of the stains are unknown as they
are from the previous owners. What do you suggest I try to remove these
stains? Q 8048: Last year i remodled my home and installed tumbled marble countertops. I sealed them and really didn't experience any problems cleaning. However, i rented the home out --and now that i am preparing to move back in, the tiles have not been maintained - are stained and need some major TLC. I am wondering what i should do before re-sealing. Additionally, some of the grout in the joint between the backsplash & counter has cracked. Can this be repaired without removing the grout? Many thanks. Sharon, Reply R1: Dear Sharon: About the cracked grout: No, it can’t be fixed without removing the damaged one first.About the staining issue: Assuming that the stains you make reference to are darker than the rest of the stone, your first priority is to remove the stains. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8047: hi, i had a black slate countertop installed in my kitchen two years ago. it was sealed when first installed and i've sealed it every 6 months, unfortunately it looks awful. i don't cook much and i haven't abused it in the least. is there anything that can be done to make it look new again? please help. thanks. JOHN, Reply R1: Dear John: I really have some good news for you: It’s only money!! :-)Now, answering to your question, the most elaborated answer I can come up with is, “NOPE!” You’re only option is to rip out the stupid thing that does not belong there to begin with. But hey, see the good news above! Of course, like it often happens in life, you may have an option. For instance you could go back to the merchants who sold you that stuff for your kitchen countertop project while reassuring you that all you had to do was sealing it and enjoy, and ask them to solve the problem. Most likely you will have to get in line because they’re too busy “selling it” and have not much time for petty chicken dropping like maintenance, but if you’re patient enough your turn will come and they will tell you everything you need to know to take care of the wonderful stone they sold to you! You know, they know everything about slate and then some. Just sit tight; it’s going to be any day now, any day … Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8046: I was wondering if you had any words of advice on a honed granite slab for a kitchen. The slab is named Antique Brown, and may also be called Marron Cohiba, and possible as Marron Bahia. I very much want a honed product. I read about your Lemondrop test and it seems to do fine, and have read about the perils of honed black granite. Should it be sealed with an impregnating sealer for safety? Any additional comments? Much appreciated. David, Reply R1: Dear David: Never consider the selection of the stone as the determining factor of your decision. By the same token that guns don’t kill people, but people kill people, stone doesn’t hurt (financially) people, the people who handle it do! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8045: I read your whole column today and am a little mixed up now and would like another question clarified. I understand about the lemon juice test and will do that for sure. Now, I am thinking of Black Galaxy. Is this a hard or softer granite….. and given all the specks, will it show finger prints,etc? OR am I better off with an Uba Tuba…Reply R1: Dear Judie: Black Galaxy is among the hardest stones available for a kitchen countertop. But so what? Are you going to consider the choice of the stone as the determining factor of your decision? Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8044:
Hi, not sure how to post, so hope an email is ok. Please help... Q 8043: I found a beautiful stone that i would like to use in my bathroom. the seller (who sells kitchen and bath related things) said it was a sandstone called durango. in my web search have only turned up durango travertine. a) is there a durango sandstone and can it be used as a countertop and b) will durango travertine work in the bathroom, where likely spills might include toothpaste, shaving cream, hand lotion, perfume, etc.)? i do not know if these are acidic or not. is there any way to find out which normal bathroom products are acidic? Reply R1: Dear Meredith: I’m not at all surprised about the “knowledge” of stone displayed by that sales person! :-)There’s no such an animal like Durango sandstone. Durango is travertine from Mexico – end of the Durangos! Like any other calcite-based stone, Durango is indeed sensitive to acids and other pH active substances. However, with proper care and by avoiding the most common pitfalls, it could be quite enjoyable. It’s also very dense and no impregnator/sealer is necessary. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8042:
I would like to know if anyone has had any experience with a granite named
Black Morgan. I have also seen it named as Black Marinace. It is a unique
granite that looks like a river bed with large river rocks imbedded in
a black background. I just don't know how it will look as a kitchen countertop.
I wonder if it would look "too busy." I can't find anyone who
might have had this installed to go look at it. Has anyone seen this granite
installed in a kitchen? Now you have a stone that looks like EXACTLY like a river bed, right? Would it surprise you too much if I’d tell you that’s because it is EXACTLY what it was?! Now, granite is – by its own geological definition – an igneous rock (the solidification of a molten mass) of a certain specific list of minerals that’d be useless listing for the purpose of this little analysis. My question is: do you think that there is even the remotest chance that a solidified molten mass could ever get to look EXACTLY like a river bed?? All this to get to ask the final question: HOW ON EARTH COULD ANYBODY EVER COME UP WITH THE SICK IDEA TO CALL THAT THING GRANITE??! :-) Having said all that to joke around a little bit, it appears to me that, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8041:
I am having the same problem listed on your website (ring marks) with
my black granite. The company who installed and sealed my granite is coming
back to strip the seal with methylene chloride. I had a few questions. It’s highly toxic and a proven carcinogen. You don’t want to be around when they use and at least for a good hour after having left all the windows of the entire house open. As a former contractor I used that stuff only once many years ago and decided that there was not enough money in the entire planet that could convince me to use it again! There will be no MC residue left, because it’s 100% volatile. There could be some other chemical left on the counter, due to the fact the MC never comes straight up. It’s always part of a paint stripper. Using generous doses of my MB-5 will take care of that. There’s a better, faster, chemical-free (well, almost, but nothing toxic), odorless and definitely effective way to remove those kinds of “ghost stains.” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8040:
I don't have the name handy, but we installed a veiny creamy/buttorscotchy
yellow/grayish marble on our bathroom vanities. When isntalled they were
shiny and they are definitely sealed (by contractor and again by overzealous
husband). They've been in a little over the year and in some areas it
seems like the color is washing out (it gives off the look as if toothpaste
has dried on the counter and left white dullish areas.). My conjecture
is that it has something to do with the chemicals and saline solutions
we use for our contact lenses. My question is: have we permanently damaged
the marble? My husband says it is impossible to 'take the color' our of
the marble, and that we should be able to clean it with a good marble
deep cleaner product. I cleaned it yesterday, first with Glass Plus (no
ammonia) and then with very well diluted stone cleaner and it still dried
to the dull whitish look (in various areas). Needless to say, you can try to “clean” those “stains” ‘til you drop, but they’re never going to disappear! Is you stone ruined permanently? If you don’t do anything about it, yes, it is; but that doesn’t mean that it can’t be repaired. Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8039: Just had ubatuba installed in our kitchen. We couldn't use the sink right away so a mixing cup with oil and water sat on the counter overnight. We now have our first oil stain. Is the acetone poultice safe to use on the ubatuba? Also, should this stone be sealed? The installer had it sealed but I was wondering if I should seal it four or more times as you suggest for some of the other stone types? Thanks for your help. Steve Ziehl, Reply R1: Dear Steve: Sealed or not sealed, if you leave oil sitting on a stone countertop overnight, you will have a stain! Ubatuba does not need to be sealed, and the fact that it was sealed goes to prove my opening statement. Sealing some more won’t do you any good.On the other hand, removing an occasional (and rare) stain is no big deal! Yes, the poultice with acetone will work (if you know how to poultice). And no, no mineral solvent could ever affect any natural stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8038: Hi, Would you know of any places to purchase soapstone countertop in monmouth county? What is your opinion on using this material? I love the look, are there any drawbacks? Thanks, Allyson, Reply R1: Dear Allyson: You mean Monmouth Co., New Jersey? (I live there.)No, I wouldn’t know where to go to find soapstone, but that doesn’t mean that nobody is carrying it. Have your fingers do the walk and look on the Yellow pages under the classification: Marble Natural. As far as my comment on soapstone is concerned, it’s thumb-up in my book. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8037: I am having new countertops made for my kitchen. The color is Uba Tuba. My questions are twofold: 1) Is this a reliable countertop for a kitchen? 2) At the same time we are having a half wall between the kitchen and dining room made into a bar. The wall is 6" wide and 8'9" long. The granite installer has suggested support brackets,4 of them, (8") be put installed prior to the slab going in. If I have to install support brackets I would much rather use wood corbels. Would this be a good choice and give the support I need? Thanks, MC--in NJ, Reply R1: Dear MC in NJ: 1) If the slab is a good-grade, and if it’s fabricated and installed right, and it’s not sealed, then, yes, it’s indeed a terrific choice. 2)Yes, you can use wood corbels.Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8036: I have a slate shower floor and walls, installed 18 yrs ago with a couple of resealing in that time. It has much white streaking (discolouring?soap?) which appears to be on the surface. A rub with soft wirewool and/or a wipe with a slate cleaner described as "soil removing agent and cleaner" doesn't have much effect. Is there some process whereby it might be brought back to its rich finish before resealing? Frank M. Reply R1: Dear Frank: “Maintenance of slate”? I wish I knew something about it! Unfortunately, no matter how many times I tried to question several merchants who sell the stuff on its maintenance requirements, they were all too busy selling it to pay any attention to me (and you, for that matter)! Do those whitish streak disappear when you wet them? Let me know. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8035:
I just happened upon this site while looking for tips on what to do with
my granite and also how to rid my toilet bowls of hard water lines. I
won't aslk you about my toilet bowls, but if you have any tips, I would
certainly welcome them! Besides, I assure you, that if they don’t come off with regular cleaning (even simply a damp cloth) the “stains” that you have are not created by water, and are not in the “granite” either. I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. I also know that your fabricator is the sole cause of your problem. Considering the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair that you give them the opportunity to rectify the situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8034: What is a "bridge" on a granite countertop? There was an error in the cutting of our granite slap and the Granite man wants to fix it by making a bridge? He explained that he would cut another piece and lay it on top, sand it very flat and it would look like a single piece of stone, not necessarily one stacked on top of another. He said this is sometimes done in very high end homes. We are anxious to close on our house and this seems a viable alternative. What is your opinion? Lynn, Reply R1: Dear Lynn: It’s unheard of, technically not doable, and a total hogwash. Tell your “Michelangelo” to bridge the teeth of his sister, and then to get out of town! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8033:
I have some low-grade inexpensive "Granite" pre-fabricated Polished
Absolute Black countertops that have some water (who knows what else)
spots and minor scratches. I'm guessing the mutt "Granite" is
from China. I'd like to know what will remove the staining/water spots?” A polishing powder. Providing, of course, that you know how to use it and that you have the right equipment. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8032: I am planning to install tumbled slate tiles in our shower. Is there anything we should know before moving forward? ie. discoloration, cleaning, sealing, etc. Thanks for your help. Reply R1: Dear Takayasu: “Is there anything we should know before moving forward?” Yes, absolutely: what you should know is that you do NOT want slate in a shower stall! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8031: I need advice on how to repair a cracked slate tile. The piece is dark gray/black and belongs to my husband, a retired Navy Senior Chief. My husband was given this piece of slate with artwork painted on it by his Navy buddies commorating his promotion to chief. During my remodeling of his "navy" room I had the piece laying on the floor along with numerous other certificates, diplomas and pictures to be placed back on the walls after I had finished the room. I was ready to hang it today when our daughter came to me and said I'm sorry, I stepped on that piece of tile and broke it. The piece is not completely broken, it's still hanging together but the crack goes all the way across from left to right. I put some tape on the back to hold it together until I found a permanent way to repair it. What should I use to glue it back together so I can hang back on the wall. Vickie, Reply R1: Dear Vickie: The ideal glue would be epoxy, but it’s hard to get and very difficult to handle. There’s a glue called “Gorilla” (it goes on black and dries clear) that’s very close in performance to epoxy but easy to get (even in the internet) and to apply. Now that I gave you the solution are not going to kill your daughter or somethin’ anymore, right? :-)Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8030: We
built a new home a year ago. We had granite countertops installed. They
are light in color. We have an under counter mount sink. After months
of being in the home, we noticed darkening around the edge above the under
counter mount sink. We had the granite company come out and they thought
it was water so the resealed the sink to the counter. After weeks the
stain did not disappear. The granite company came back out and they removed
the sink and found an oily substance on the top of the sink where it was
mounted to the countertop. They think it was plumbers putty. They used
a paste stain remover and applied it to the rim of the counter and top
of the counter but the process was done incorrectly and the stain was
worse. After getting instructions on how to use the stain remover, they
applied it again, covered it in plastic, had us remove the plastic after
24 hours, let the stain remover dry out and then they came back out and
cleaned it away. Some of the stain is gone but some still exists. Are
they performing the process correctly by putting the stain remover on
the top and side (above where the sink was mounted)? The stain was absorbed
through the counter top at the point where the underside of the counter
meets the top of the sink. At any rate, the technique and material that they’ve been using lately is apparently correct, but it will take many more attempts. You can’t even dream to remove a Plumber’s Putty stain so deeply imbedded in one shot only! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8029: I
have enjoyed looking through your vast helpful tips. I am considering
some granite countertops I saw and could not find a question about this
type. I beleive the stome is from India and is called either Lady Dream
or Amber Fantasy. I belieive it is actualy a gneiss not true granite. In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Trust me, with a stone like that, the choice of the right fabricator is paramount! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8028: I just laid a floor of azul cielo in a bathroom which to date has not been sealed. Should I seal it? ReplyR1: Dear Joe: Azul Cielo is a porous stone, which is the first prerequisite for the application of a good-quality stone impregnator, such as my outlandish MB-4. The second requirement to justify a sealing job is the answer to the following question: “What could I possibly spill on my bathroom floor (coffee, cooking oil, ketchup, mustard, dark soda, etc.) that could possibly stain it?” Keep in mind that a sealer for stone does one thing and one thing only: it helps prevent imbedded stain, period. No surface protection whatsoever, no protection from acidic spills, nothing. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8027: I am considering using "Imperial Blue Green Quartzite" for a kitchen counter. Is it considered a good choice for a kitchen? How does it compare to granite, for example? ReplyR1: Dear Robert:
It does not compare well with granite and most commercial granites. Too
darn absorbent and even the best sealer will not perform at their best.
However, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? R1: Dear Thom: (where
are you in NJ?) What do you mean by, “No one here has any idea why
this is happening”? You mean to tell me that the fabricator who made
your top doesn’t know what’s going on, although it’s so
darn obvious??! Was the floor restored incorrectly? Should a chemical been used instead of a grinding machine and water. Can the floor be repaired by another restorer and can the rust stains be removed? Can limestone be damaged by too many restorations? Reply R1: Dear
Sheila: I hate it when I have to deliver bad news! But even if it’s
a lousy job somebody’s gotta do it! So, here it is: You have a combination
of problems that start with the stone itself. In fact, I always preach
left and right against the use of limestone. Second, I’m afraid that
you have open grout lines. (Was that floor installed butt-joint, perhaps?)
If that’s the case, the water used to grind and hone your floor found
its way under the tiles and the moisture is now migrating to the surface
through the core of the stone itself. Since many Limestones have iron
mineral within, there you have your rusting! Under the circumstances,
and forth, the last thing you should have done to your floor was to apply
an impregnator/sealer. In fact, the impregnator is dramatically slowing
down the migration process (of the moisture), thus giving the water more
time to dwell and oxidize the iron mineral, thus increasing the severity
of the rusting of the stone. Grinding and honing using water is the correct
way to do the job, but the variables I mentioned above should have been
taken into consideration. Can it be repaired now by another company? I
sincerely hope I’m wrong on this one, but I don’t think so. R1: Dear Tisha: I must assume that those dark spots are nothing by cooking oil that was absorbed by the stone. Which leads me to believe that your countertop was not sealed properly. Keep in mind that green marble (most likely serpentine) is more absorbent that true geological marble and does require to be sealed with a good-quality impregnator, like my outlandish MB-4. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8023: I put a light grey marbel basin in, now I notice it is becoming very dark around the edges, If this is coming from the water how can I get it back to light? Thank You, Dwaine, ReplyR1: Dear Dwaine: A marble wash basin? You mean that the actual basin is marble? Is it installed on the contest of a vanity top, or is it free standing? What kind of marble is it? Are you sure it’s real marble and not cultured marble? Is the dark discoloration kinda of dark brown – almost black? If that’s the case and if it is real marble, then it may be some sort of mold/mildew forming within the stone. I do have an incredibly good stone cleaner for the purpose, namely MB-9 mildew stain remover, which will have to poulticed on the stain for better result. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8022: I am trying to choose a granite countertop for my custom crafted walnut kitchen cabinets with burl grain raised-panel doors (made these myself, and it is awesome!. Can you recommend a granite that will complement this, have a light tone primary color like cream, gold or white, have some warm tones, provide good contrast with the walnut, and has sufficient resistance to absorption? One that I found that has wonderful cream and brown colors is Golden Beach, but I am unsure if I like the wild movement of grain in the pattern across the entire slab. What can you say about the pros and cons of fleck vs.movement styles of granite? Is one more popular or absorbant than the other? Thank You. Ron, Reply R1: Dear Ron: For
openers, I’m lousy interior decorator. I’m even 25% colorblind,
for crying out loud!:-) Thanks in advance! Cheers, Prabhu, Reply R1: Dear Prabhu:
I don’t know the first thing about that particular marble; therefore
I have no idea how resistant it is against a mild acid such as ureic or
other acidic and/or staining agents. R1: Dear Judy: When
something sounds too good to be true, it usually is! Engineered stone
is no exception. It’s a tough material indeed, but it’s not
as “bullet-proof” and maintenance free like their promoters
would like consumer to believe. On the other hand, those (somehow entirely
non complete) claims are the only real “weapon” they have to
fight a fight that would not have any contest without them! Many commercial
granites are just as dense as e.s. (and require no sealing at all), and,
for other aspects, they are tougher and require less care than it. But
this, Judy, is not really the point. R1: Dear
Karen: Do you remember one of the songs in “The Chorus Line”?
“Everything is beautiful at the ballet!...” I still LOVE my choice, but am concerned that... Am a taking care of it properly?? Or was it not sealed properly?? Can you help? From what I read I'm a bit confused about "sealing" granite? What should I have expected from the company? Thanks sooo much.. Happy with Merinace!! in Massachusetts... Jean, Reply R1: Dear Jean: Your stone is a weird “animal” indeed! Due to its inherent diversity within its structure it’s among the most “doctored” “granite” (why on earth they call that thing granite is beyond me!) in the industry. Needless to say, all this “doctoring” – which is meant to make the texture of the stone as uniform as possible – is nothing but some sort of makeup; and we all know that makeup doesn’t last forever! At any rate, your case present an interesting (and quite amusing) … revelation: not only did your fabricator gave you the wrong advice on the product to use for routine maintenance – which, alas, is quite usual – but he went as far as precisely indicating a specific one! As if he knew what he’s talking about when it comes to clean stone!! :-) Now, I really don’t know about this System 113M that you have to apply every two months to your countertop, but it sure sounds impressive! Just as impressive as it’s probably useless: I never heard of any “system” (whatever that means) that has to be applied every two months!! If it’s a sealer for any chance, the breaking news is that Verde Marinace doesn’t need any sealer! Not only that, but if for any chance it’s a solvent-carried sealer, then there are very good chances that the solvent removed the “doctoring” right away! Consequently, the dullness that you have now could have something to do with that “system” thing and, very definitely, with the dish soap. At this point, I really don’t know if your stone can be brought back to its original factory finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8017: I am contemplating on buying a Green Reef garnite (?) for my kitchen countertops. I cannot find any information about this particular stone anywhere...could you please advise if thsi stone is suitable for kitchens ? Thank you Pavel, ReplyR1: Dear Pavel:
I’m not completely familiar with that stone, but it really doesn’t
matter. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? The engineered stone will cost about the same as granite $6500. I have 75 sq.ft of countertops. I would appreciate any help you can give me. thanks---Jean, Reply R1: Dear Jean: Ubatuba is one of the many commercial granites that are as care-free (actually better) as any engineered stone. Very definitely, if cost is not a major consideration, a slab is much better than tiles. However, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8015: I just had black honed granite countertops installed today. I purchased them through Home Expo. There are a lot of gray cloudy areas throughout the stone. The installers applied a "sealer" and told me I could clean with soap and water tomorrow. I am really nervous about these gray areas - can they be removed by cleaning or some other method. Thank you for your advice. Lalah, ReplyR1: Dear Lalah: The
first big mistake was to get honed black granite countertop: it is a maintenance
nightmare as you can tell by the trail of tears soaking this very site.
The second mistake was to purchase from a fabricator who didn’t know
how to properly hone your countertop. The hone finish should be uniform
all throughout. The third mistake was the application of an impregnator/sealer
to your countertop: you do NOT apply a sealer on black granite to begin
with, let alone a hone-finished one. The only hope to minimize the maintenance
issues attached to such material is to apply a stone color enhancer instead.
Finally, the forth mistake was the suggestion to use soap and water for
routine cleaning. Again I called the manufacturer technical support. They told me they had no idea what the problem was but suggested an old tilesetters trick. Apply a solution of half mineral spirits and half boiled linseed oil. I did this. It has dried for now for 5 days with my heat turned up and fans blowing. It is not oily but has a tacky feel. We tried using a blow dryer for several minutes on one area. It didn't seem to change anything. I do feel it is probably dry but this tacky texture shows every footprint so that is not going to be acceptable. I'm wondering if the heavy duty stripper and cleaner will take it back down to the bare slate. If I ever get it to the bare slate, what do I use to give it a bit of shine and make it look darker. The original sealant really didn't do that. I also have new multi-toned slate in my kitchen that I was wanting to seal but after this nightmare I'm afraid to put anything on it! Do you have any suggestions for me? Is there a fee for your services? Thanks so much for your help! Cindy Peck, Reply R1: Dear
Cindy: First, you investigate about good sealers and ended up with the
worst in the industry (that's how most contractors consider that product).
Regardless, applying an impregnator to your slate was your first mistake,
not to mention that you apparently applied it wrong. R1: Dear Don: Your
only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will
lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.Now, you'd better watch out!
I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities
related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there
are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! R1: Dear
Linda: You're confused, all right! :-) R1: Dear Jas: Most green marbles and a few others are acid resistant to a certain extent. Most other marbles are not resistant at all to corrosive agents. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8010: I've been shopping for granite slab for my kitchen island, and so far I like the 'Black galaxy' the best (to match with my baltic brown granite tile on the rest of my kitchen counter). Is this a good granite for countertop? The best price I found is about $900 installed for a 36" X 84" X 3/4" slab, does it sound reasonable to you? Oh, the stone is from China. Thanks, Christine, ReplyR1: Dear Christine:
For openers, if it comes from China it can't be Black Galaxy! (It only
comes from India). 2. When buying granite, do we pay for what we use, or are we required to buy whole slabs? Thanks in advance for your assistance! Reply Dear Laurie: It all depends on the fabricator
and the type of stone you choose (size, grade, etc.) Thank you for your response! Annette, Reply R1: Dear Annette: Occasional use of bleach in most commercial granites should not cause any harm, but soaking your stone with that much bleach at a time to remove a stain that will probably not come off with bleach (you'd need something else)... well, I don't have the answer (you don't expect me to test intensive use of bleach on any "granite" that there is out there, do you?!), but I wouldn't feel too comfortable myself. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8007: I accidentally left a rag with oven cleaner chemicals laying on our granite counter top. The top is predominantly black with some silver specs throughout. Where the rag was left sitting, it is now predominantly silver, very obvious, with almost no black. Is there any kind of fix for this? Thank you, Jack, ReplyR1: Dear Jack: Yes, it is possible, but you will need the services of an experienced stone restoration contractor, hoping that in your neck of the woods you can find one of those 12 or 13 (all throughout the country) that could pull that off and match factory specs. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8006: I came across your name from several posting on the findstone.com website, would you please be so kind to answer a quick question I have for you. I have limestone floors in my foyer and I've noticed some small holes in the stone, what would you recommend for repairing them: (1) epoxy glue, (2) cement-based grout, or (3) something else. I know you always tell people to tear out the limestone and install something else but I don't have the money for that. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much Jeff, ReplyR1: Dear Jeff: My very favorite is color-matching caulk. Fill the hole and then shave the filler flush with the stone surface with a razor blade. Clean around it with a wet rag making sure not to touch the filler in the hole. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8005: We just installed a Bertch Marble top double sink vanity top in ourbathroom. I had ordered this over a year ago and it has been stored in its box. My husband does not think this is real stone, but I do. (It was about $500.00 on sale). Anyhow, it has some scratches and little tiny dings in it, and I would like to know what should be done to minimize these, prevent further ones, and in general to protect this top so it will last awhile. What can you tell me? Margaret, Reply R1: Dear Margaret: Your husband is right. Therefore I can't help you: I allegedly know a thing or two about natural stone, but I don't know much about manmade material. You're best bet is to go back to the merchant you bought your vanity top from. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8004: We had Azul Imperial (a quartzite) installed on our kitchen island (4' x 8') in August. We had some concern that the installer did not put the steel rod/plates under the stone to support it or that the stone is under stress. It turns out that we just got a crack running from 6" from the edge, down the edge, across the seam ( oggi edge ) and underneath it. The crack has expanded back up to form a V I called the stone supplier, they said the stone is very hard and it should not crack. What could possibly cause such a crack? I am planning to contact the fabricator/installer but I want to make sure I'm saying the right words to him. Thanks, Jill Horn, ReplyR1: Dear Jill: So the stone dealer didn't know that "granite" while very hard is also fragile, huh! Wow, they sure know their stuff!! :-) Cracks alre alway - and I mean always - a consequence of poor installation. The cabinet were not probably leveled and there was one or more tension point. Hence the crack. Rodding could have helped, but the real issue are the cabinets. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8003: I have 6 marble tiles on the floor in front of my fireplace which have become stained by pet urine. Is there anything I can do to remove the stains? Thanks.Susie, ReplyR1: Dear Susie: If the stain is kinda yellow, then you will have to remove it by poulticing it. If it's a dull spot instead, then you will have to repair the surface damage by using my outlandish marble restoration kit, which just so happens to be on sale! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8002: I have a "Granite" bathroom counter top that was purchased at Home Depot, and in reading some of your advice it most likely is a calcite blend, (was not expensive). My wife cleaned our "Granite" top with a cleaner that left "water spot" looking stains on it. I read the cleaner directions and it stated not to use on stone products.This cleaner apparently etched the stone. Is there anything, (short of professional refinishing), that can be done to eliminate the etched spots? What about a mild abrasive, (MB11), then polishing, (MB7)? Thanx for your advise, Pete, Reply R1: Dear Pete: If it's aclssifed as "granite", then I doubt that MB-11 could possible help you (though it might). MB- is a topical finish for floors, meant to delay wear and tear patterns. What kind of "granite" was that? Could you at least tell me the color? Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8001: At work I accidentally dropped a permanent marker on the stone floor. The floor is some sort of limestone or soapstone w/ a mild sheen, porous, yellow/beige in color, and is pretty "talcy". I was able to successfully get the stain out, but it required lots of scrubbing and I believe I scrubbed off the light sheen that was there... how can I restore that, so there isn't a big "scrub mark" there? Thanks for your help, Kay, ReplyR1: Dear Kay: Without even knowing what kind of stone it is, there's no way I can't give you any suggestion. However, typically it is not a DIY project. Sorry that I couldn't be of any further assistance. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8000: I have spent several hours reading the questions and answers on the website. I have learned that honed travertine is a good choice for bathrooms and light granite can have a good deal of absorbancy. What I would like to know is which is better for a bathroom counter the honed travertine or a polished light granite? I understand that a lot depends on the particular granite chosen. I am concerned about stains from makeup and liquid soap. If the granite is the better choice, do you have suggestions for light colored ones that would complement a travertine floor and shower surrounds? Thanks you so much for all the great information posted on your website! Karen, ReplyR1: Dear Karen: I would go with honed travertine. Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7999: I am about to begin a remodel of my kitchen. We will be changing the countertops, floors and appliances. The cabinets are made of natural unstained cherry which were made in 1987. They have formed a lovely patina. I would like to use a green, not to dark granite and am thinking about something called COSTA SMERLODA and MIDO GREEN. Their shades appear similar, although I think that Mido green may be alittle more gray. WHich one would you reccomend? Or perhaps you can suggest another pretty, somewhat soft in color green? Thanks, Pam, ReplyR1: Dear Pam: Please,
leave me out of the decoration business! I'm strictly a mechanic and 25%
colorblind to boot! :-) R1: Dear Jain: If your claim is legit - it does sound so - don't pay them until you're satisfied. And when all is said and done, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7997: We recently hired a corp. to install granite countertops on our kitchen. They came to our house late in the afternoon and did all the cutting in our backyard. When they attempted to install the granite to the sink area, they didn't continue because our cabinets were a little over 1/4" off leveled. They demanded that we should level the cabinets and would charge us extra money if they have to come back. Is the levelling something that the installers should consider in the process? Can they work around that? Thank you. Tina, ReplyR1: Dear Tina: There are nos standards ona subject like that. Certain fabricators bite the bullet and do the leveling themselves (it's not fair though in my book). Certain others stand their ground and won't work for free at doing someone else's job (the cabinet maker). Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7996: we just had installed "Baltic Brown" It is so pitted it look terrible. The builder says the light the color the worse the pitting. I went to Home Depot and theirs is not like that. I think I got a bad piece of "granite". ReplyR1: Dear Joe: Stone
doesn’t create problems: people do! That is why, when somebody asks
me to give them a list of what I feel are the most suitable “granites”
my answer is: “The fabricator – end of the list!!” R1: Dear Pat: Let
me tell you a true funny story: over 15 years ago, when I was strictly
a stone restoration contractor, I was looking for a decent product line
to offer to my customers at the end of every job. I never found anything
suitable and, out of frustration, I decided to make my own product line.
Something that would make sense, for a change! Little did I know back
then that it would become my main business one day! R1: Dear Gale: Your fabricator sounds like
a good, knowledgeable professional, and he seems to stand behind his jobs!
It’s really refreshing, considering all the “Michelangelos”
I have to deal with every day through inquirers complains and gripes!
I can’t comment on the dull spot without actually seeing it, but
if you can live with it… (I know I could!) About the sealing issue,
he’s absolutely right: you do NOT want to seal that stone! It is
not as much the hardness as it is its natural density. Basically, id doesn’t
absorb anything. R1: Dear Kerry: I’m not really familiar with fireslate. I do know is a manmade material manly made of Portland cement mixed with silica (sand) and processed under a very high pressure. That should make for a strong material, but I believe that the issue of acid etching inherent to all concrete countertop is still the major drawback. And if that’s is the case, there’s no solution to that problem. So, very definitely, run my little lemon (and oil test) on a piece of scrap to find out. Soapstone is two thumbs-up in my book! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 7993: I have read that you don't believe that this is a good stone for kitchens I am interested in a golden colored stone without any pink or peach. Can you recommend another stone I should look at? The slab I found at Belstone in NJ was called Kashmir Gold but doesn't look like any other stones with that name that I have seen. It has no pink/peach in it and has long areas of black wavy lines throughout the stone. Any help would be appreciated. Aliza, New Jersey, ReplyR1: Dear Aliza:
You’re asking your question to the wrong guy: I’m 25% colorblind!
:-) I’m afraid, however, that you’re starting your granite adventure
with the wrong foot! | ||||||||||||||||