| Q 5126: I am installing
a countertop on my kitchen island and have been so attracted to
the vein pattern of the Juparana colombo or Juparana yellow. We
will be using the granite counter to knead the dough which may contain
oils and butter. Looking at the published characteristics of the
Juparana grades, we found that their water absorption is between
1.5 and 3.5. However, we could not find any statistics on Oil absorption
to understand the potential staining on the granite. We have done
the lemon test which left no stain on the granite.Do we need to
use a sealer on the Juparana grades?. If yes, which sealer you would
recommend to avoid the contamination of from the toxic of the chemicals
used in the sealer. Regards, Ai Tram, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
You're on the right track, spoken like an expert!
Yes, you do need a sealer, and I would use one which is FDA approved
for this type of application. Oil penetrates much easier than water.
Take the time to seal a piece and test it. My best method is to
saturate the stone until it stops absorbing and not by applying
coats. When the client allows me the time I drench the surface with
sealer and when I see that the stone stops "drinking",
I remove the excess. The following day I repeat the same. Less sealer
will be needed. However I have yet to find a sealer which guarantees
to stop 100% oil absorption but clients found the results very satisfactory.
"Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Ai Tram: Juparanas are very absorbent stones. If your samples
passed the lemon juice test, then chances are that the slabs have
been resined. That is why I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which
is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R3:
Sealant or no selant
this particular granite will absorb oil and water and i suggest
you choose a more robust granite for your kitchen purposes. something
like black, red, or green . the ideal granite would be a good black.
for kitchen usage. Capt. M. Dilip |
| Q 5125: We
are looking at replacing our countertops and the granite we have
chosen is Jupanara Wave from Brazil. Can you provide any advise
on our selection, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
I can only say how I deal with my customers. I go see the slab in
full from the fabricator, the veins can vary a lot so don't follow
a small sample. Before they cut my counter I ask to see how they
have disbursed my templates. Many fabricators will look at loss
of material, when what my clients are concerned with is how the
pieces will look fitted together. I only order book matched, which
means where the pieces join the grains follow. I ask to have the
underside polished as deep as it needs to be. Normally the underside
is polished about an inch, after installation when you run your
fingers under the edge, you feel the roughness of the underside.
Ask them to polish it a few inches deep. Makes a real nice difference
to the touch. Lastly you must seal the stone using a premium grade
Impregnator. "Stone" |
| Q 5124: I am planning
on installing 12"X 12" granite tiles of Baltic Brown in
my kitchen - 70 sq ft which includes a 6ft curved semi-circle island.
The tiles are at "Lowes", they are 1/4" inch thick
and available for $8.00 per sq ft. I purchased one box of the run
and have done the lemon and oil test on the tiles with great overnight
results. I do have some good carpenter skills and would like to
make my wife happy with granite countertops in her remodeled kitchen.
Best of 3 quotes from granite slab shops here in Houston is $3,000.00
turnkey for the Baltic Brown she likes. With the purchase of the
granite tiles at $560.00 - this leaves quite of chunck of remodeling
change left for other "nice-ities" What should I know
about installing tile, book referral, and/or what am I getting into?
Wrong or right decision? Would it make any difference if I said
we will be retired and selling this house in about 5 years? Please
advise. Bart, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
I think it's a great way if your a good craftsman and you'll be
proud of the results. You need to know plenty and it will be step
by step. Email me and i'll walk you through it. Will do it together
and I will be looking forward to some before and after shots of
your success, "Stone" |
| Q 5123: Our builder’s
subcontractor was to install “spring green” granite
in our kitchen, said its from India, however it does not look like
what I saw in the showroom – it looks much darker with large
what areas sporadically. Do you have a photo of what spring green
granite from India (or another country) is supposed to look like?
The overhang undersides appear to be polished just about 1”
then it is rough – it that standard? There are some cut pieces
on the wall splashboards, including the bar slab piece, that have
lighter green and rose colors which look like what I selected. They
tell me this is the same stone but I’m not convinced. Is there
a way to discuss with the vendor to get across to them this is not
what I selected? Should the color from one cut piece look so different
in color particles then the countertops? Also, some of the edges
on the splashboards appear like a black film is on them, but doesn’t
feel like it – what could that be from? And, how do I know
that it is sealed properly, Beacon, May 30, Reply
|
| R1:You
should chose the slabs-don't trust the sample. Yes, one inch underside
polishing is standard, you have to ask to have it done deeper, so
not to feel that roughness. That I agree with you and I demand it
when I get my counters done! About you're black film, if it is a
film, try using steel wool on the edge, see if it removes it. It
could be attributed to production. To know if its sealed, place
a wet scottowel on the counter and leave it there for 15 min, when
you remove it, if you see darkened area, its not sealed properly.
You should do the same with oil. "Stone" |
| Q 5122: A recent installation
of Massangi Limestone as interior wall cladding has resulted in
slight bleeding at numerous grout joints. In effect, the reddish
grout seems to have bled into the stone and created a "halo"
of banding 2-3 inches on either side of the joint, which is now
slightly darker than the stone. Limestone being such a porous stone,
I'm sure this is a common occurence. Is there any way to remove
such moisture or staining? If not, is there reason to believe that
this wouldn't be an acceptable installation (i.e. not a workmanship
issue)? Thanks, Ben, May 30, Reply
|
| R1:
Ben, If it is moisture, give it time it will dry and I have seen
it take months to do so. If its a discoloration type bleeding you
will need an expert. Normally a washing using appropriate stone
products would be the first thing to do, but I have worked on such
cases that turned into nightmares. There are a few tests your stone
expert can do to attack this problem appropriately, "Stone" |
| Q 5119: I am redoing
my bath rooms and have been told a million different things on what
stone to use. I would like to use a travertine, but have been told
that they do not hold up well in bath rooms. The reason being is
that it has holes in it and the holes were filled with a dust and
paste mixture to fill them and then honed. Does travertine break
down after 5-7 years if it is filled with this dust paste material
to hold it together? Thanks Mitch, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
Hey Mitch - Any Marble or Travertine can be
affected by usage in a washroom. I always tell my customers, you
install stone in your house, marry a guy like me for life. Every
once in a while I have to be called in to restore the surface. I
love travertine, the filler holds well and repairs well and I find
it to be a great choice. I can send you hundreds of pictures where
the stone has lasted. Dont forget thought the most important thing
to remember is to maintain using quality products, "Stone" |
| Q 5118: I am looking
at Opal Green polished onyx (a lovely pale turquoise/green marble).
I am wondering if this is a safe choice for a bathroom floor. Will
it stain? Will the polished finish disappear? Do I need any warnings
about it?, Carla, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
Follow marble care- they both act very similarly. Ciao, "Stone"
|
| Q 5117: We installed
giallo antico counters several months ago and the client is unhappy
due to a recurring grit on the surface. Why is this happening and
what can be done? Carmen, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Carmen, what do you mean by reoccurring
grit? Is this a honed finish? Are there grout lines on the surface
or is it a slab installation. Send me more details? "Stone" |
| Q 5116: Hi, I clean
homes for people. One of the homes has a granite floor. They want
me to use vinegar and Hot water. everytime I clean the floor I get
alot of streaks. Is there another household remedy I can use. I
thought of using windex and hot water?? Please give me your opinion.
thanks, Kay, May 30, Reply |
| R1:
God Kay, when I hear such things I cringe. I have to admit on granite,
what your doing is not the end of the world but in rare cases you
can do irreversible damages. Use a specialized stone cleaner, I
do have some secrets I can share with you to make it easier. But
I need more specifics. "Stone" |
| |
| Q 5114: We
have a marble wall which has been splattered with cement. How should
we proceed to best remove the hardened cement without damaging the
marble? Thanks. Castine, May
30, Reply |
| R1:
Depends how large, color of marble and if the
marble is polished or not. But no worried it will come off. "Stone" |
| Q 5100: Hi just found
your site again and today our countertops were installed. I thought
I read all I needed i.e....lemon juice test...and we chose Tropical
Brown granite for our kitchen countertops. After the installation
we noticed something we are not happy about. All over the entire
top are small what appears to be scratches or nicks. Could this
possibly be that the fabricator did not polish enough to get a smooth
surface? Or is this typical of this particular granite..the installer
did put an impregnator sealer on also ( with a paper towel that
took 3 minutes) so I think we were rushed and we have not finished
paying for the job....Help! Not feeling too good about this and
I dont want to get stuck with a horror story...also they put the
granite directly onto the cabinets without plywood base...am i in
for trouble with that as well...any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Michelle, May 30, Reply
|
| R1:
Michelle, dont pay them & no rough tops ,poor finish start over
with someone else after those clowns refund your hard earned money,
nuff said, "Rex" |
| Q 5093: Could
you please tell me if you need to seal Volga Blue? I am thinking
of using this in my kitchen and unfortunately the reality is that
I am not a clean as you go person. I understand that the absorbancy
rate is .1% - .3% which is a great variance. What rate do you feel
becomes the cutoff for heavy, family kitchen use? Would Black Galaxy
be a better choice for lower maintenance (love that blue though)?
Thank you ever so much for your help. Donna, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: In my experience Volga Blue is
one of the densest stone on the market, but, as you concluded by
yourself, the mere information of the absorbency rate is not enough.
That is why I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad),
or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would
make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!I did write
a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you
rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll
be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get
all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don’t
become another statistic!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5086: I am considering
using Black Galaxy granite for our kitchen countertop. Should I
be concerned about stains? Should it be sealed? Things to look for
in picking a slab? Thank you, Earensb,
May 29, Reply |
| R1:
I have a Black
Galaxy countertop myself, in my extremely busy Italian-cooking kitchen
for 7 years already. Never sealed, never had a problem! I always
used proper maintenance products, though. But that does not mean
that ALL Black Galaxy doesn't need to be sealed. That's why I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. Maurizio, expert panleist |
| R2:
I congratulate you on an excellent choice.
black galaxy does not need any sealant. but i must warn you you
are wasting a very costly material for the kitchen slab. it is better
used in a open hall with lot of lighting to enhance the gold specks
to glitter your hall into glory why dont you try a good black material
for your kitchen...it needs no selant is absolutely stain and scratch
free i have a dining table for the past ten years which we have
used(abused) in all sorts of ways. but still retains its sheen .
all the best, Capt Dilip |
| R3:
Black granite has been a little problematic.
I encountered stains on a black granite right after we installed
it. When trying to remove it I found that I also removed a die which
was on the stone. It left the stone spotted in appearance. After
much testing I found that a polymer based sealer was better than
a silicone based sealer for this surface and Yes it defiantly needs
to be sealed. Contact me for more specific information and testing
information. Now not all black granites are the same, and it can
be tested. But with careful installation and once sealed black granite
is great, "Stone"
|
| Q 5085: I have a rough
(not polished) black granite floor that always looks dusty and dirty.
How can I make it look evenly black again? Thank you Chuck, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chuck: With a thorough machine-cleaning followed by the application
of a good-quality stone color enhancer. Should you need additional
technical assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's
a little fee involved (as you will be told), but it could turn out
to be the cheapest way to get true help. Maurizio, expert panelist |
| Q 5084: Advise how
(if possible) to remove a curling iron burn from a cultured marble
counter top? Step-by-step instruction would be most appreciated...have
tried all the standard efforts (borax, toothpaste, fabric softener)
to no avail. Have read something about fine grit wet/dry sandpaper?
Help! My husband is going to kill me if he moves the soap bar :)
Thanks, Liza, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Liza: You should be looking for a site
in the internet that deals with plastic, not stone. Just because
they use the world “marble” in their definition of that
stuff, it doesn’t mean that’s stone.Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5080: I am having
the rest of my granite counter installed with Juperana Guyana. There
is a crack in the center right in front of the gas stove top. We
looked at another slab from the same lot and we can get a match.
The installer is argueing that if he replaces it the same problem
could happen again. Of course they don't want to replace it. They
have installed a steel rod underneath and they are arguing that
it will never get any worse. I want it replaced - they want to offer
a $500 cash rebate. Who to believe. Do you think I should insist
that they replace it. Thanks for your advise, Barb, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barb: What kind of advice
are you looking for? There's no rule! If it were my countertop I
would insist that they replace it; but, maybe, someone else could
be content with the cash rebate … Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5077: We are currently
choosing the fittings for our new kitchen and would appreciate your
help please. We have a granite benchtop in mind but have recently
been told they are more trouble than they are worth. I thought there
were some problems with marble benchtops but didn't think granite
was an issue. It is hard to get honest advice as the people selling
the granite tell me it's fantastic and very hard wearing, the people
selling a competitive product tell me it's no good and I should
buy a "stone look" product! I do a lot of cooking and,
at the end of the day, really want a hard wearing surface that doesn't
mind having ingredients splashed all over it! I would appreciate
any help you can offer. Many thanks!! Lin, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lin: I can see that's pretty much the same story all over the
world! (You're from the UK, aren't you?). "Granite" can
be quite enjoyable, if selected intelligently. In fact, it's the
easiest material to maintain that money can buy. But you need some
basic intelligence, and you ain't gonna get it from the sources
you've been contacting!! Now, please, don't ask me to give a list
of good "granites"! Besides, I seldom comment about any
one particular stone. I did write a very comprehensive article on
"How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will
give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
If you are not mindful of the colour go for a good black top for
your kitchen. and reply to me 10 years hence. i am sure you wont
regret it. and if you want suggestions on where to get good black
ask me i will guide you , Capt Dilip |
| Q 5076: I
have a granite counter top and left a wet bowl on it for a day or
two. I now have a large round stain on the top and would like to
know if you know of any way to remove it. I am not sure if it is
a water stain or an oil stain but I think it is one of then two.
Thank you, Barry, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barry: It must be oil: water would have been evaporated by
now.When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less
money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains
by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already
have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5075: We are thinking
about getting Sapphire Brown for a counter top for the kitchen appox
50 sq ft. 3/4 inch thick with 1 1/2 inch thick bull nose. Is this
a great granite to use for a counter top?????/ Thanks, Sal, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
yes it is ok to use it in kitchen it is some
what robust and does not sponge up water and oil stains. but to
be sure i would advise you use a good black or red granite for your
kitchen these are safe and last a long long time,
Capt Dilip |
| Q 5074: I
have 2 pieces of granite glued together in a double bullnose. Can
the glue be destroyed and the pieces separated by heating with a
torch? Thanks, John, May 29,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear John: If they used the right glue, I doubt
it. Maurizio |
| Q 5073: Do you have
an opinion on tumbled marble in a bathroom? I seem to keep reading
that marble is porous and should not be used in wet areas - yet
the dealer is trying to sell us on tumbled marble. What do you think?
Thank you! Susan, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: I think that's a terrific material,
and as easy to maintain as they come! Yeah, I know, you keep reading
that marble is porous … But it ain't! And no matter how many
stone "gurus" say the contrary, 1,000 wrong don't make
a right!Go for it. Just make sure that you get proper intelligence
about its (easy yet specific) maintenance. You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
R2:
Dont use marble on the bathroom. its life is 2 years and you will
regret it afterwards
tell me if you are in a coastal area,,,, means the atmospe\heric
humidity is more and marble just absorbs all the wetness in the
air and keeps chaning colour go for a good granite. ask me and i
will advise you what to go for, Capt Dilip |
| |
| Q 5071: I
am going to be getting a new kitchen, gutting my old one out. I
need help deciding what kind of countertops are the best. I'm not
a big fan of Corian or Silestone. I love the look of granite, but
it's so expensive. What do you think of Caesarstone? What hickness
is good? Thanks, Judi, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judy: Ceasarstone is exactly the same
as Silestone and, to the best of my knowledge, it selsl in the same
price range. (Like the saying goes: "same … you know what,
different name!) I do not understand your statement about the affordability
of granite. Solid plastic (oops, sorry, solid-surface - whatever
that means!...) material and engineered stones are not much cheaper
than the real thing! Go with granite! But, please, don't ask me
which ones I consider best.I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which
is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5066: Please
tell me the pros and cons or a good place to get the true scoop
on granite tile vs granite slab kitchen countertops. If budget allows
for tiles will we be disappointed over time? Why? Bart, May 29,
Reply |
| R1:
: Dear Bart: Besides the looks of the final
product (tiles vs. solid slab) there's no technical difference.
It all depend on the stone you choose and how well fabricated and/or
installed it gets. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5064: We are installing
a new granite counter top. I would like some information on the
quality of juparana dream from brazil. Also, I have questions on
preparing the surface for installation. Does it need some kind of
sealing? How best to keep it looking beautiful. Mainly, how to take
care of it. I realize there is a fee. I'm going to get the questions
from my husband on preparing the surface after I find out about
your fee. Thank you Edna, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Edna:There we go! Juaparna Dream, huh! … I was a little concerned:
it was a couple of days already that I didn't hear of yet another
Juparana (whatever that means!) :) I'm wondering if even Dr, Daniel
has any idea as to what kind of stone it is?! Anyway, I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5058: I have access
to granite remnants from a counter-top installer and am planning
on using them for an outdoor patio 'polished side' up with mortar
joints. The pieces will be randomly placed and vary in size (some
up to 18"x24"). Joints will vary but be 1-2" wide.
I am concerned that this will be a dangerously slippery surface
when wet. What equipment do I need to flame the surface or would
sand-blasting be better? I live on the NC coast, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Besides the fact that equipment to flame finish
granite is totally out of reach, it's impossible to flame a polished
surface. Once can only flame a rough granite surface. So, I reckon
that sandblasting is your only option. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5057: Will you use
travertine to make a washbasin? If yes, what are their pros and
cons? Is there any precautionary measure to be taken? I understand
that it is highly porous and water absorbent. Please advise, Sheila,
May 29, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sheila: No you understand it wrong. Travertine is probably
the densest calcite-based stone available and absorbs very little
- if anything. Of course, the material used to fill the holes, which
is cementitious, is porous, but in the overall picture it represents
a small percentage of the total surface of the stone. What's more,
once a good-quality stone impregnator sealer is applied in it, you
won't have any problem at all. Should you need additional technical
assistance, gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5056: My husband
and I recently bought a pre-constructed townhome out-of-state. As
we were only able to make a couple of trips to their design center,
we opted to select a white on white marble countertop - settling
any issues with color matching. However, once installed, the countertops
had a definite "pink" sheen to them. We have been told
that this particular manufacturer includes titanium in their product,
which brings out this color difference. Is this true? We are very
unhappy with the look, Sharon, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon:The reason why I would never want to die is because
I hear something new (and "intriguing" - to say the least)
every single day. Oh, I will miss that immensly!So, now we have
this "Titanium" thing that the manufacturer includes in
their products?! … Which manufacturer? The quarry, the slab
manufacturer, or the fabricator? And how in the heck can they ever
accomplish to push a metal like titanium inside marble?? …
What a crock of … you know what! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5055: We have just
bought a house. Under the Mexican saltillo tile, which we have gladly
removed is this dull, slightly stained, but possibly beautiful white
terrazo floor. What is the next step to bringing this floor to it's
wonderful shine that we know is probable. Do we grind it or polish
it? How many steps and what are those steps to finishing terrazo.
We would like to do the work. Where do we rent the machines? Best
Regards, Ramon, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ramon: Stop dreaming! Grinding and repolishing stone (and terrazzo)
is not, by and far, a DIYer project! So much so that you can't even
find a place that will rent you the proper equipment. Gave up the
idea if you can't afford the services of a stone restoration contractor.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5054: Our granite
guy is at the house installing our BLACK PEARL countertops today.
Do we seal or not? I could not find anything specific about this
color in the forum, other than it is "probably in the grabbo
group". Any help is greatly appreciated. Steve, Kerrville,
Texas, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: Most likely it will not need to
be sealed. But I seldom comment about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or
"resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would
make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5053: HI, I am thinking
of installing travertine floors throughout the new house I have
just purchased. It is a small beach house, about 1,000 sq feet.
I am trying to find out as much information as neccessary about
the quality and characteristics of travertine, maintainence, and
also installation and durability. Basically, I want to know alot
about it. I would also like to install it myself, as I am not in
any hurry, and I enjoy working with my hands. thanx, george, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear George:Oh, I'm sure that you can do it! There's a lot to be
learned about travertine tiles installation! But I see that you
already realized that! Should you need additional technical assistance,
gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5052: We have recently
bought a Travertine Dining Table from a UK retailer.
I had an accident with tomato ketchup on the table and this has
left a dull patch. The UK retailer recommended using pure alcohol
to see if the mark could be removed. This has helped a little, but
not solved the problem. They also suggested using a colourless wax
(like that you would use on a car). I can't bring myself to use
a car wax on my dining table! There is a label on the underside
of the table that recommends the use of Jonson's Past Wax. This
does not seem to be available in the UK. Can I use a plain furniture
beeswax? Please could you advise me what to do? Many thanks, Wendy,
May 29, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Wendy: Even Johnson's Paste Wax - or any
other wax for that matter - will never solve your problem. All tomato-based
product (including plain tomato) are acidic, and the dull spot that
you have is an etch mark. A mark of corrosion, that is, that was
generated on contact and just about immediately. In other words,
it is not a stain, but rather a surface damage, and, as such, needs
to be repaired. That particular spot of your table top has to be
re-polished. Now, natural stone is not polished by applying some
sort of wax onto it and then buffing it up: it's polished by abrasion
and friction, like gemstone, using special polishing powders or
compounds for stone. Should you need additional technical assistance,
gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5051 : What is the
best way to clean cement residue from grouting a flagstone
patio made with Arizona sandstone? Michael, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Use weak acid and stiff nylon brush to remove
residue, start in incospicuous area to test first, acid can be diluted
or purchased from supplier. Rex |
| R2:
Use a pressure washer
and a wire brush. Robert |
| Q 5050: You
replied to a question about different granite types, shown below.
You said that Santa Cecilia is “borderline” and that
its absorbancy rate is twice that of true granite. In your table,
absorbancy for Bianco Sardo, a true granite, is listed as 0.25 to
0.45 but Santa Cecilia is listed as 0.25 to 0.35. Also, you say
the others are even better than granite, though Verde Ubatuba is
listed as 0.2 – 0.45. Can you explain the discrepancy, please?
Sounds like the bottom line is for the novice shopper to just use
the lemon test, and not the numbers in the table? Thanks. Dave ,
May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Values in GRANITE TABLE are got from many sources.
They are average. The most ofter water absorption for true granite
is 0.15-0.3%. BIANCO SARDO is granite with relatively high water
absorption among true granites. Gneisses like SANTA CECILIA have
water absorption 0.25-0.35%, so higher than true granites. VERDE
UBATUBA is very ofter mistaked with VERDE BAHIA, VERDE LABRADOR
and VERDE BUTTERFLY with better water absorption (approximately
0.1-0.2%). I hope you will be satisfied with my answer. Succesful
day Daniel Pivko, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
My dear friend
Dr. Daniel himself already answered your question. What I want to
add is that even among the same "granite" there may be
differences between a bundle of slabs and the next. While the educational
value of Dr. Daniel's document is unscathed, nothing can match the
reliability of the results obtained by testing! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 5049: I have been
a builder of luxury homes in New Jersey for fifteen years. My question
relates to a marble 12 x 12 floor cracking problem in a second floor
110 sf master bathroom. The floor is constructed with 3/4 inch tongue
and groove plywood over 16 inch spaced 12 inch I beams as designed.
I installed 1/4 inch electric radiant heating cable directly over
the plywood prior to the finished floor installation. My client's
marble and tile contractor insisted that no vapor barrier (tar paper)
or diamond mesh was necessary on top of the plywood as he was using
a "leveler" directly over the plywood. This was contradictory
to my experience but I agreed. He poured two independent 3/8 inch
lifts of a self leveling compound for a total of 3/4 of an inch
of base over which he installed the 12 x 12 marble over latex modified
thinset. Within a couple of months we noticed a network of hairline
cracking throughout the floor, cracks seeming to run parallel to
the plywood seams in both directions. The contractor posted an early
defense suggesting that an inordinate amount of movement must have
occurred underneath. We consulted the construction plans and agreed
that based on general conditions of beam deflection, shrinkage etc.
that at least a minimal amount of movement was likely. I obtained
a bag of similar leveler and noted that the instructions recommended
an additional layer of underlayment installed with glue and screws
lapping the lower seams.
I am obviously curious about comments regarding interpretation of
the cause but more importantly in the quest for a solution. The
contractor suggests anti cracking membrane over the existing cracked
floor then a new floor on top (we both hope that the framing conditions
may have stabilized to some degree). This would certainly be much
easier but based on all described but I'm wondering how much of
a guarantee of success versus the alternative. The alternative I
suppose is to rip everything up and start from scratch with wire,
cement and maybe a membrane as well. Obviously the only thing worse
than having to deal with tis problem would be dealing with it again
later on. I would so much appreciate some expert opinion on all
this. Thanks! Lori, May 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: In NJ, huh … Maybe we can do
some work together! Well, there's not much that I can add to the
conclusions that you were able to draw on your own. The method of
installation used by your contractor was plain wrong and the facts
confirm that! What one wouldn't do to avoid a good ol' mud job!!
I personally consider it a MUST, especially - but not limited to
- in the case of new constructions. Not to mention -- when it comes
to marble or limestone floors -- an unrivaled, good ol' "grind-in-place"
installation! It's more expensive of course, but your customers
are no welfare mothers, either! :-) Anyway, trying to answer your
question as whether or not an installation of new marble tiles over
the cracked ones - with a membrane in between - would work is, I
believe, anybody's guess! I honestly don't know, and even if I'd
lean toward the possibility that it could work, I'd never officially
endorse anything like that. Gimme a holler, will ya! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
YOU HAVE PUT A MEDIUM
THAT DOES NOT STRECH AS MUCH AS WOOD. YOU NEVER PUT A CONCRETE ON
WOOD OR CONCRETE PRODUCTS ON WOOD ESPECIALLY IN A SUSPENDED FLOOR.
THE ONLY ANSWER
IS TAKE IT OUT TO THE WOOD FLOOR AGAIN AND PUT A RAFT CEMENT FLOOR
IN, MIN 50MM THICK WITH A LIGHT GUAGE MESH. THIS WILL ALLOW THE
FLOOR UNDER TO EXPAND AND CONTRACT. REGARDS STEVE |
| R3:
I am not an expert or a mason....You know what you have to do to
avoid future problems....(and loss of client confidence). My dad
would have told me to take it apart and do it properly. elle |
| R4:
In regard to your problem, I have run a tiling business in Darwin
Australia for 12yrs. and have used the system that you talk about,
because of the extreme temperatures in the tropics and the high
humidity, whenever we installed ceramic tiles or natural stone in
elevated houses we installed on top of 30mm marine ply screwed at
300mm centres. The joints between the sheets were covered with two
ribbons of 200mm x 2mm thick of fibreglass, this was trowelled over
flat with a flexible adhesive, then the underlay was applied at
a nominal depth of about 15mm unless grading to a waste, Then a
flexible adhesive was used to trowel the floor during normal tiling
procedures, When dry, a flexible grout was applied, and where possible
, a silicon movement joint was installed as close as possible to
where the joints in the sheets would be. These silicons are now
available in various colors and are incorporated instead of the
grout. Also, we installed a perimeter silicon joint against all
internal walls allowing for even more movement of the floor, and
I can boast that we hav`nt had a comeback yet. Unfortunately, as
in all good jobs nobody see`s the prep. but if that`s done right
the job`ll be right, all the best . Clarky |
| R5:
Marble you
said ,,that you installed on the floor,,what if the the marble defected...and
not recomended the regular thick material over the heater cable
on the floor. tel me about the name of the marble ... than i can
answer you more
detailed. erkan |
| R6:
Suggest double layer
hardie backer board if you re-do project, keep seams offset to avoid
same probs, screw and glue to keep movement to a min. reduce heating
wattage to compromise temp slightly and use an approved mastic for
flooring since the thin set with add. is still to inflexible for
that Rex |
| R7:
For your substrate
you needed two layers of 3/4" EGP plywood or 1 layer EGP plywood
and a 1/2" cement board. Your explanantion does not allow me
to see if your design meets the L/720 requirement for natural stone.
I think you are not there though. This would cause the cracking.
The SLC is not really the right way to go. Electric radiant heat
should be under the tile embedded in the thinset. My thoughts are
an improper substrate. You and your tile setter should share the
repair costs. Best Steven
|
| R8:
I would start from
scratch, felt paper over plywood, mesh, mortar bed ,let the mortar
bed dry apply a anti cracking membrane and finally lay marble tiles
with a super flex thin set mortar from TEC
|
| Q 5048: How
can I repair the finish on a marble table? What happened is: Flower
arrangement was on the table and when it was time to discard, yellow
particles had fallen on the table top. Sprayed Windex thinking to
clean it, instead the yellow spread. Quickly tried to remove using
vinegar and/or bleach. Now the yellow is gone but so is the finish?
Please help!!! Thanks, Sheila, May 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sheila: There's only one answer for you:
hire a professional stone refinisher!. The combination of vinegar
and bleach corroded the surface of the stone, hence the shine is
gone. To restore it, it has to be done mechanically, by abrasion
and friction, like it was originally done at the factory. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| R2:
Sheila, I am sorry about your table. Next time
don't worry about the pollen. It can be cleaned with plain water.
Yo should always use a neutral ph cleaner formulated for stone.
Your marble was etched by the acid in the vinegar or even something
in the windex. You should contact a natural stone refinisher or
a marble and granite fabrication facility. They can repolish the
table for you. Steven , Expert Panelist |
| R3:
You will need to have the surface repolished by an expert using
diamond technology. You can try using a stone cream to enhance the
finish, but usually it has little affect and is mostly used to keep
a new surface looking great as it gives a fine sacrificial protective
coating. By the way, using VINEGAR on MARBLE never, ever, ever!
Stone |
| R4:
CALL A STONEMASON
TO REPOLISH, Stephen |
R5:
Hi Sheila, Even if you glue a 2 inch piece of granite slab on a
surface a plywood or subfloor, if the subfloor separates the granite
will follow. When you fuse a floor together what is going to happen
underneath, will transfer on the surface.
If the height permits, you could glue directly over the existing
floor. I would check this with the membrane supplier which membrane
is best, but you could place a membrane over the actual stone and
reinstall over it. Its almost like placing a carpet between the
stone and actual floor. The membrane works simply, it attaches itself
to the surfaces independently so if there is movement underneath,
it doesn't affect the surface. Choose a company which guarantees
their product and subsequent works if a problem does arise. During
installation I only use such guaranteed products, on every job.
And this allows me to guarantee all my work. I also have restored
such a floor by diamond polishing, but the floor had settled, and
marble was red with light brown veins, so I was able to camouflage
the cracking affect enough to be visually appealing. But thats a
longer explanation which you can always contact me and we could
discuss in details, Stone |
| R6:
Call a natural stone
refinishing contractor to repolish your table. Someone should have
warned you that marble is acid reactive. Vinegar would take the
shine right off. Clean the counter with neutral stone cleaners in
the future. Steven, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5047: I
own a seven year old house with unfinished stone floors (limestone?
Travertine?) throughout the first floor. I do not think the floors
were sealed when installed by original owner. The holes in the floor
are getting bigger and bigger and the high traffic areas look terrible.
Some have told me that the floors are tumbled marble, others have
said they are unfinished limestone. No matter what they are, I need
to find out how to fill these holes and and clean it REALLY well,
grout and all, and then seal it. is this possible? One contractor
suggested sanding them down but my concern is that the holes are
up to an inch deep. Someone else told me it would be over $8,000
to make it look “finished”. Could you at least tell
me what I should be looking for in a contractor and if the outcome
I want (a smooth, clean, sealed floor) is possible. Thank you so
much, Kelly, May 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelly: Well, you have a riddle in your hands! The problem is
that reading your posting it's a riddle for me, too! :-) Knowing
what kind of stone you have is vital in order to find a solution.
For instance, if you have tumbled marble (which I doubt) there would
be no solution, besides filling the holes., because tumbled marble
can't be refinished. The way you're reporting your situation makes
me lead toward travertine. If that's the case, I have good news
and bad news for you. The good news is that IF you can find a good
stone restoration contractor in your neck of the woods, he will
be able to fill your holes and to refinish your floor to a satin
finish (the most recommendable), or to a high gloss, accordingly
to your personal taste. Your mention of sealing the floor as a final
touch makes me understand that you mean the application of a topical
sealer that will make your floor nice and shiny. Well, travertine
(or limestone for that matter) is not polished by applying a sealer
onto it and then buffing it up, but by abrasion and friction, like
gemstone. And here comes the bad news: it is not, by and large,
a DIYer project. You do need a proven professional, and it will
cost you a pretty penny (consider anywhere between $4 and $6 per
square foot). The most concerning factor in the whole picture is
that it is not going to be easy to select a good professional. It's
a "weird" trade that can hardly be approached in the usual
ways you approach, say, a plumber or a tile setter. What I mean
is that you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle
of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point
of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out
there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive
article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor,
which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent
choice. It does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your
stone, you don't want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! What's more, I will
even show you a way to get all of your money back! Maurizio, Expert
Panelsit |
R2:
Ciao Kelly: I would suspect you have a travertine floor by the large
holes you described. A professional will be needed to do this work
but simply said what he must do is the following.
- Grind down the stone, to obtain a fresh new surface. You only
remove a 1/32 of an inch or so, just enough to remove the wear and
tear.
- The stone will have to be filled a few times with a Travertine
filler. This will fill the voids and holes - A waiting period is
required for proper drying of filler.
- Floor is repolished to desired shine. Done properly all the holes
will be filled and color matched close to existing fill or stone
color. You can now seal the floor with a good quality impregnator.
Through this the floor will return to its original splendor, Stone |
| Q 5046: What
are the chemical and mechanical characteristics of Carrara Marble?
I am particuarly interested in the tensile, flexual, compression
and MOR properties. Thanks, Ron, May 22, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ron, Just which Carrara Marble do you have in mind? Do you
realize that there are many varieties of marble produced from that
area with a Carrara tag. Some are very white, some coloured. Some
are very fine-grained, others substantially coarser. Some have a
well-defined structure due to original sedimentary processes and
subsequent metamorphic and structural processes. You have to be
specific in what you want! You ask specifically about a number of
geotechnical parameters. Have to tried doing your homework on the
net? Why do you want these parameters? When you get these parameters
do you know what they mean or are they just numbers that someone
has asked you to obtain? If they are important to you for a specific
engineering
application you must always do your own geotech testing - you should
never rely on anybody else's numbers, especially from certain countries.
You can't rely on the numbers for many reasons. You do not know
anything about the type of marble that was tested, what condition
it was in, what direction or orientation the samples were in relation
to the stone in the quarry, and the quality of the testing. So often
I have to examine test results that just aren't true! You also mentioned
that you wanted to know some of the chemical characteristics of
Carrara marble. Some basic research on marble
in even elementary books on the subject will tell you most of this
information! (Dr. Hans) |
| Q 5045: We
are looking for a forest green natural stone to be used as our counter
top in the kitchen. We were concerned that the emerald pearl was
too dark so we are interested in the verde lavras. Is this a good
choice to be used in the kitchen? It appeared to hold up well with
the lemon juice test. Should we seal this stone with an impregnator
and how should we best maintain it? The samples we have came from
a stone yard in the North East where they commented about having
a new and old version with the new looking more muted. We like the
brighter one and want to make sure that what we get is the brighter
one. To complicate matters we are moving to Tennessee which is where
we will have the counter top installed. Is there a good way to help
direct our installer in Tennessee so that he orders the right thing?
Any help and guidance that you can give is appreciated. Thank you,
Gary Hess, ,May 22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sir The Verde
Lavras granite is perfect for the use in kitchens, how much to the
tonality it varies as the quarry where was bought, quarry of different
standard exists in place 4. Our material is one of clearest and
shining. Any doubts, please in contacting them. Best Regads Helio
Nelson |
| Q 5044: We
manage a commercial/residential site where there is a covered passage
way tiled with 600mm x 300mm Crema Marble tiles. We have been unsuccessful
in removing marker pen based graffiti and I would be grateful for
any suggestions you may have for us to try. Do date we have tried
several liquid based commercial graffiti removal products along
with a pressure washer but the ink appears to have seeped into the
marble, presumably due to it's porosity. Thanking you in advance
and I look forward to hearing from you. Regards Karen, May 12, Reply |
| R1:
Please try a Pumice Stone or spray hydrogen
peroxide sevaral times let dry. may help after several applications.Another
possiblity could be stove top glass ploish sold at Sears.
|
| R2:
Hello Karen ! Stain
should be already inside the marble. Apply poultice to the stain
poultice with a solvent such as toluene or methylene chloride (paint
stripper) Let the poultice work covered with plastic for about 48
hours You may have to repeat this process if you see results improving.
Good luck ! Alex Coronel |
| R3:
I have one effective
way to solve this problem: wipe the ink or marker with a rag soaked
by gas. That is very useful solutiona that we had experimented.
piness |
| R4:
There is an oil remover
made by holland or germany that might do it for you, adi |
Q 5043: My husband
would like to put the following stones in our remodeled master bath:
1. Durango limestone (or marble???) - shower stall, tub deck and
floor
2. Costa Esmerelda granite (???) - vanity top
I would like information on care and maintenance for each of these
problems.
My stone guy assures me that the Durango would only need to be sealed
once
every several years. However, I have tumbled Botticino marble (limestone)
in my powder room that I seal twice a year. The Durango limestone
seems to me to be very similar to the tumbled Botticino marble.
3. Also, what is the best stuff to clean Uba Tuba granite countertops?
My stone guy says vinegar and water. Deidre, May 12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Deidre: 1. Durango is a travertine. There
are two types: one which is a tan color and another one that's whitish.
You do NOT want the whitish! It's a much younger stone that was
formed under less pressure and it's very VERY brittle! The tan color
is a good stone.2. Costa Esmeralda is a good stone. Run the lemon
juice test on a piece of scrap to determine whether or not it needs
to be sealed. 3. Your tile man is right about sealing the Durango
every 5 or 6 years (even 10 or more with our sealer, MB-4!). I don't
know who suggested you to seal botticino twice a year. First, there's
not one single sealer on the market that needs to be applied twice
a year. Second, Botticino is such a dense marble that doesn't need
to be sealed (it's just as dense as travertine). Third, what kind
of staining agents will you ever spill in a powder room?? (Which,
even if you do, will NOT stain Botticino!). Stop wasting time and
money doing something totally useless! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5042: I
just had granite countertops installed last thursday. I noticed
that there are dark spots in quite a few places. It looks like there
are spots where the silicone was placed underneath to mount it.
These spots seem to be lightening up. Will these spots go away?
Secondly, the fabricator supposedly sealed it but water also makes
dark spots. Does it need to be sealed again? The name of the color
is Luna Pearl. Am I going to have problems like this forever? what
do I need to do? I am scared that I am going to have to be careful
with what I put on the countertop. I thought granite countertops
were virtually indestructable. Please help me. April Rodriguez,
May 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Granite is not indistructiable, did you look
at the slabs before you bought them in the sunlight most of the
time that helps if there is any water spots from or floods from
200,000 years ago if you know what I mean. the other if water beads
up on the granite then it was sealed proper, if it doesn't then
go to a Granite supplyer and ask for impregnator pro this the best
product on the market I think and that I have used so far. As far
as I know the silicon should not bleed up through slab but you could
test that by getting a piece from the installer the sink cutout
or the stove cutout and silicone that to a piece of plywood to see
the reaction. I hopes this helps a little...Scott
|
| R2:
Yes , u r right, they are the spots where they would have put the
glue or, silicon or liquid nails below to ensure securing of the
top to the wooden deck below, but for sure it should go as it dries
and Luna pearl being light ,these spots are visible. DO not worry
about it but , the installer should have sealed your counter top
free , this is one issue where the fabricator and installer tries
to save money by not putting on the sealer and may put it on by
charging some money, but these sealers are available as a stone
impreganator and even you can do it your self and need not be done
often, and as you say that even water leaves a mark , for sure the
counter top has not been sealed. Shenoy |
| R3:
Congratulations on your purchase of granite
counter tops. Not to scare you, the granite that you chose has a
tendency to "blister," particularly if the stone is not
thoroughly sealed. In my former bosses home his floors were the
same material as yours and from my understanding he did not properly
seal the concrete underlayment on which the granite was set on.
Just remember that stone can be resurfaced at least 10 times, something
you can never do with ceramic. The wet spots that show where the
adhesive is will eventually go away when the adheasive dries. Be
sure to ask your installer if they can reseal on already sealed
material; have them explain this process to you. All stone when
wet will change color temporarily. Here's a concept in the appreciation
of stone use. What you have is a "gift from God." It will
never get ruined, not in your lifetime, your kid's lifetime and
so on. Learn to appreciate the responses your stone gives you. That
is the beauty of nature. Enjoy your Luna Pearl Granite counter top!
Robin |
| R4:
Dear April, The Luna
Pearl is good counter top material. It does require the application
of an impregnating sealer. Please have your fabricator complete
this for you and demonstrate how you should do it later. The moisture
from the silicone will take more time to disapate. Best Steven |
| R5:
Dear April, The spots
coming through – due to Silicone – will lighten up –
but never really disappear. The spots would appear lighter –
as the Granite – soaks up some permanently residual moisture
– despite the water proofing.Luna Pearl, as I understand,
is a very soft material. (I may be wrong – hence I am attaching
a very small jpg of Luna
Pearl, as I know it) If the water is leaving marks – the
sealing may not be correct, and would have to be done again. Many
good sealers are available in market As far as putting stuff on
the counter top – avoid spilling wine (specially red), Vinegar
and any citrus liquid. Rest, if the water sealant is good –
should not really make a difference. Do remember to re-do the sealant,
as per the manufacturers’ suggestions. Best of Luck, Sharad
|
| R6:
Dear Sir, With certainty the problem is in
the used silicone, that is not possibly the correct one for use
in granite, you must call a technical (fabricator for silicone)
to see the correct specification of the silicone that must be not
alkaline. Any doubts that still it will have consult me. Best Regards
Helio Nelson |
R7:
Dear Madam, Yr problem
concerns me. Granite, as you rightly put it, is indestructible,
provided it is properly polished before installation. It is, after
all, a natural stone. And anything natural is susceptible to changes
when in contact with some substances if left in the natural state.
Nothing to worry. A little effort that could have been avoided in
the first place. But then, we all learn from our slight mistakes
known or unknown. You don't know whether the installer gave you
the piece without proper polishing knowingly or out of his own inadequate
knowledge/gauging ability.
I'd suggest you persuade the installer to repolish the top with
a hand grinder for which you may have to remove it from the wooden
base/whatever and have it reinstalled. You may be able to get it
done without any more expense. The trouble is inevitable, you see.
Thanks for the opportunity. Regards: SSKambhatla |
| Q 5041: I have purchases
Giallo Veneziano tiles for my bathroom and I plan on buying a matching
counter top for the vanity. Also, the shower door is going to sit
on 3/4 inch slabs of the Giallo Veneziano BUT, the stone IS NOT
going on the floor of the shower or the walls... it is only being
used for the top of the shower curb. This stone is very porous.
Did I make a horrible mistake and should I get something else..
I cannot return the tiles so I would lose the money... or can this
stone be properly sealed and maintained so it looks great for years
to come? What kind of maintenance does it need? Plse recommend products
if you can and they must be available in Toronto, Canada.Thank you.
Gina , May 12, Reply
|
| R1:
I hope this reaches you in time. Have 16"x16" travertine
unpolished installed on your shower walls. On a 45 degree angle
have "cabashons" (about 4"x4" each cabashon)
installed symetrically. Have the edge of the cabashon beveled and
have the cabashon protrude out from the travertine wall about a
3/8th of an inch. Seal the stone with a professional grade sealer
once a year (cost about $40 per quart) and wipe down your shower
after every use. Don't forget to install a corner soap holder (in
its simplest form cut a 12"x12" sqare piece of your travertine
on a diaginal. Then have the installer put the corner of the 90
degree side into the corner of the shower walls and hieght of your
liking. Robin |
| R2:
Yes the stone can be used for the applications you described. After
installation and before the shower door is installed the tiles and
slab need to be thoroughly cleaned. Then 3-4 coats of an impregnating
sealer needs to be applied. Please follow manufacturers instructions.
Best Steven, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5040: email me relevant
information We are just starting to get into making granite, marble
and concrete countertops. Are there any books available to explain
the process of working with granite and marble? Also are there other
websites of interest with this type of information? Thank you! Dan
Diehl, May 02, Reply
|
| R1:
Stone fabrication is not for people who want to begin after reading
a book or gathering some information in the internet. There are
already enough "Michelangelos" out there! I would urge
you to attend special classes on the subject. If you're interested,
gimme a holler. Ciao and good ,Maurizio |
| Q 5039: I have just
installed a bluestone veneer on concrete. It looked good at first
but then I cleaned it with muriatic acid. It now seems to have white
film over it that looks pretty bad. How do I remove this? Could
the white film be from not rinsing the acid enough (with water)
and then it reacted with the blue stone? How does calcium chloride
effect bluestone or does it? May 02, Reply
|
| R1:
The first thing that you have to do is accurately
identify what type of stone your bluestone is. Bluestone has many
meanings between countries and within countries. In Australia bluestone
can be a fine-grained silicified slate, vesicular basalt, or a siliceous
volcanic rock. Recently I had to investigate problems with a bluestone
from Vietnam that was a marble, and therefore behaved quite differently
to all the others. (Dr. Hans), Expert Panelist |
| Q 5038: We are currently
in the process of choosing "granite" for our kitchen counters
which will get considerable use, as we love to cook and entertain.
We have initially selected Juparana Golden as the
material of choice but now are having second thoughts after reading
so much good info on your website. Can this material be sealed to
a point that maintenance will be minimal? What are other options
for a "granite" that has similar color and appearance
to our first choice? Thanks for your advice. Bill. May 02, Reply
|
| R1:
I seldom comment about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or
"resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would
make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very
comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen
Countertop" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5037: I
have a kitchen and Bath showroom in Delaware. Clients often ask
questions about Granite maintenance whereby the answers I’ve
given over the years have been from Fabricators word of mouth. A)
Customers have questioned granite because of the porous nature of
the stone. I was told that the best analogy is that on a microscopic
level granite has a texture similar to a sponge. The sealant applied
by the fabricators fill in the pours; but not completely. The proper
upkeep with cleaners, polishes, and sealers over time will seal
more and more of these pores making the porous properties of the
stone no longer an issue. Is this analogy correct, or don’t
I have the proper information? B) I’ve also been concerned
on advising customers on the proper daily cleaning of their granite
counters. I wanted to know if they should use the “Stone cleaning
kits” available today as an everyday cleaning regimen. I scoured
your column to find an answer, and the only products I’ve
learned NOT to use are products with vinegar or the use of dish
soaps. Can a customer use Windex with ammonia? Is a water dampened
rag the only low tech process to use throughout the day as a practical
matter? JP, May 02, Reply
|
R1:
Dear JP, Isn't this a lovely industry - the blind leading the blind!
You are in a difficult situation having to advise customers without
knowing anything about the material yourself. And to expect advice
from fabricators (who generally are equally as uninformed about
the product as yourself) to be "correct" is rather optimistic.
Fabricators fabricate - it doesn't matter what they use! They don't
need to know anything about the material they fabricate! That said,
there are some fabricators who take pride in their workmanship and
often have an extended involvement in the industry. Clearly, experience
makes up some of the leeway in understanding natural stone and some
fabricators ask questions from the right people and get good advice.
It is apparently not easy to find many such good fabricators and
Maurizio has made this abundantly clear in his many answers on the
subject.
As for your analogy regarding the granite resembling a sponge. Having
literally looked at thousands of granites under the microscope in
35 years it is clear that you have again been misinformed. Incidentally,
there is a big difference between pours and those little spaces
in stone called pores.
Why no take a part-time course in geology at your local university
and learn something about rocks if you intend staying in this industry.
(Dr. Hans), Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear JP: Sorry to bust your bubble, but your
elaborated analogy is not correct! :-) First off, many mercantile
granites don't even need to be sealed, due to the inherent density
of the stone (gabbro, anorthosite, charnockite, dolerite, etc.)
Certain others have a degree of absorbency that's easily a satisfactorily
controlled with a good quality impregnator sealer (granite, ganidorite,
porphyry, etc.); and certain other are indeed like sponges (Gneiss,
orthogneiss, basalt, anidryte, etc.) and should be avoided, unless
a proper testing with impregnators designed for very porous stones
is conducted before hand. Typically, fabricators get married with
one particular brand of sealer, they swear that's the bestest of
the best, and that is that !About cleaners, specialty cleaning agents
are in order. I'd like to help you. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll take
care of that if you contact me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5036: My
mums cremation stone is a sloping brown marble stone,I have just
had the gold leaf on the stone redone, the monument looks good now
but is there anything I can now put on the stone to bring out the
colours in the marble and also to protect the new gold leaf from
the elements thanks martin, May
02, Reply |
| R1:
Yes, you can put a color enhancer to bring
out the colors and protect the stone. Something you should do periodically,
as much as once a year. Simply wipe on, allow liquid to penetrate
and then wipe off all excess leaving no residue. Montreal
|
| Q 5035: I
came across your web site while looking for the color of grount
I want. I fell in love with the idea of ocean blue grout for my
shower. however, I can't seem to find it in the form I need; smooth,
unsanded. do you have any ideas of where I could find it, or if
I can color white to a blue myself... thanks for any info kerry,
May 02, Reply |
| R1:
I had the same situation with a white mosaic
tile I installed in a customers shower. I picked up some light gray
and colored it with some blue powdered die I picked up at a local
stone fabricator a grout supplier now makes unsanded blueberry color
grout which you may also like. You should find it at your local
tile suppliers. Montreal |
| |
Q 5033: I installed
16 X 16 travertine tiles throughout my downstairs, including the
kitchen. I love the look. It's filled and has a slight polish to
the surface. Does that mean honed? I have also had it sealed. Unfortunately,
from day one around my kitchen table there are many, many large
crushed holes in the travertine (some are as large as 1 1/2"
X 2 1/4", created by the pressure of the chairs with the plastic
wheels on the legs. Filling them with grout dosen't look good.
I thought (and was never told by any stone retailer during the last
4 years of looking) the stone was pretty solid since it was filled,
so I am very disappointed that this is happening. I am upset with
the Owner of the tile store for not letting me know that this could
happen.
Also the owner, said to fill the holes with with epoxy. How do we
repair the holes?
Also, I was never told of a stone cleaner. I was told by the installer
to use the mild dishwashing soap. Where can I buy the stone cleaner?
Also I have a grey with white vine marble entry floor. We installed
it new 12 years ago. It looks pretty good but it needs to be repolished.
What can I do to bring back the polished look? May 02, Reply |
| R1:
You've
got your hands full, all right! From the description it does sound
like the travertine has a hone finish. No matter what, wheeled chairs
should not make holes in the stone like those you're reporting.
I'm wondering what kind of travertine it is. Filling the holes with
epoxy could work, but it is not, by far, a DIYer's project. It take
a proven stone restoration contractor to do that, because after
the filling and proper curing, the epoxy has to be ground flush
with the stone surface and then re-finished to factory specs (or
as close to it as possible). The same restoration contractor will
take care of your marble foyer, as well. And, about dishwashing
soap, it's, well … for washing dishes! And for making me mad,
too!! :-) Maurizo, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5032: I have just
found your web stie here. firstfully thanks to you like this website.
in my bathroom my contractor have used marble 14 mm thick and 400
X 400 mm size. he used semi-dry mortor .unfortunately some of them
gives me sound hollow. does it mean that the stone will pop up in
future.and does it crack. what is the reeason to get sound hollow.
does stone itself makes a hollow sound. Shadan, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Sadan, In other words you want an arbitrary evaluation without a
sight review? My answer is no. There is not any guarantee to be
offered. A typical mudbed will either have a bond coat or an isolation
membrane. Yours has neither. Steven |
R2:
I know your
situation very well due to my previous job was construction engineer.
Hollow sound is very normal inferior existing in construction performance
of marble or granite paving, but it is prohibited by the period
of quality checking. That is mean your marble paving performance
is not qualified according to construction law related. Hollow sound
( usually get from knocking with a light iron hammer) means there
is always bigger or smaller place which is not touched between marble
back and mortar layer. Yes, it will bring damage when time goes
by because hollow place will develope into larger part with mortar's
shrinking gradually while water evaporating. The damage generally
shows as cracks on surface, then will collapse when encounters heavy
weight. So, please have your workers do it again for ensure quality.
Also notify an important thing: If you check the hollow sound only
on the day after performance of paving, I suggest that it would
not work since the water within mortor will not quite dry, and you
will find a similar hollow sound but that is hard to judge it is
really hollow or not. The best way of checking is to do that one
week after mortor layer performance completion. If you still get
hollow sound, get workers to remove them, that is their responsibility.
Piness |
| R3:
we are speacilised in fixing of granite and
marble. as per your problem there is absolutely no problem when
there is hallow sound. regards ravi |
| Q 5030: I build spec.
houses in the willamette valley of Oregon. I have been doing the
tile in them myself for 35 years, and have it pretty much down.
Now I would like to learn to install stone slab countertops. Are
there any books on the subject. Short of going to work for an installer,
there must be a way to educate myself. I am not sure who on your
list of experts is most qualified to help me, so I will just submit
this request and hope that someone will respond, James, May 02,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear James:Well, at
least you don't jump into the trade without having a clue! The only
advice I can give you is to attend a course on fabrication and installation
of granite countertops. There are no books that I know of, and even
if there were, I wouldn't rely on a book. If you want to know more,
gimme a holler. Maurizio |
| Q 5029: An installer
recently installed granite countertop without any build up. Build
up was supposed to occur prior to installation as the granite countertop
was not as thick as the Formica it replaced. There is now a significant
gap (3/4"). We contracted for build up. The installer now wants
to "uninstall" the granite countertop, build up the area,
and then re-install the same granite countertop in an effort to
reduce the gap. What, if any, problems are associated with this
remedy? Steven, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steven: Once again I don’t mean
to be rude, but I believe that the answer I gave to the posting
No. 5028 below fits your situation like a glove.Ciao and good luck,Maurizio |
| Q 5028: I am working
for a company that fabricates and installs granite counter tops.This
is a brand new company and we are all learning the process the biggest
problem we are having are the seams they are coming out chippy and
sometimes they are un ven on the edges we have tried smothing the
chips with 400 grit with flex sander and still getting complaints
.we have been using clamps to level and pull the seams together.we
are using akimi to join the seams please let me know if you have
any ideas to help also is there any way to get surface scratches
off the top we have tried everything and keep getting a foggy look
these are scratches that were caused in shippment from brazil thanks,
May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Obviously your fabricating people don't know
a lot about working with stone. You do need some expertise in handling
this type of material. That is why there is so much shoddy workmanship
out there. (Dr. Hans) Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Well, my dear fellow trade person: I don't mean to be rude, but
before starting an enterprise as complicated as fabricating granite
countertops it would be wise to learn the how to do it right. That's
only my humble opinion, of course. Seaming is one of the areas where
you separate the man from the boys, and surface polishing is for
those who really know their stuff. There are classes for both fabrication
and surface polishing. They are pricey, but if you think that education
is expensive - try ignorance! Maurizio |
Q 5027: I
recently acquired two vintage (probably 80 year old) bathroom sink
counter
tops that need to be cleaned and polished up a bit. Both have some
paint that needs to be removed around the edges that touched the
wall. Any advice or suggestions or products you sell to help out,
Mike, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mike: The only piece of advice that makes
any sense is for you to get hold of a professional stone refinisher.
The restoration of 80 years old vanity tops is way beyond the performance
of any product in a bottle or the abilities of a DIYer. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5026:
I was on your website today and thought I would ask about getting
your info book on how to buy right and maintain granite. We are
looking at Dakota Mahogany and found a place that claims to carry
the best Bellini, in their words, and they put on a permenant sealant.
Their numbers look good and claims to be praised for their installation.
We will have one seam....any comments on that? Thanks, Jim Adams,
May 02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jim:The only reason why their sealer is
permanent is because, in most instances, Baltic Brown does not require
any sealer! But I seldom make definite statements about any one
particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5025: The fabricator
is scheduled to install our ubatuba (called verde peacock). When
we saw it in the sun, in the yard, we saw not scratches that our
fingernails can actually catch in (meaning they ARE scratches).
Ther are approx 20 4-6"scratches that the fabricator and the
dealer are saying is the nature of granite. Should we go ahead and
install today or insist that they try to correct the problem first
or demand a new piece? Your expert advice is very appreciated. Thank
you Sherry Ceccanesek RN, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sherry, Polished slabs of granite should not have scratches.
The granite doesn't have natural scratches. These scratches have
been put there by people. Insist on new material! (Dr. Hans) Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Sherry:Here we go again with the "natural
fissure" thing! Refuse the slab and demand a new one. They
will never be able to remove those scratches and re-polish the slab
to factory specs. Maurizio |
| Q 5023: We installed
Juperana Columbo (mainly light grey, with darker black and beige
streaks and flecks) countertops in our kitchen about a year ago.
It was sealed several times then, as I noticed oil was leaving stains.
Over the past year, heavy use areas on the counter have darkened.
I would like to re-seal it, but am wondering if there is a way to
remove the dark areas. I have tried a poultice of baking soda and
hydrogen peroxide, with little change. Any advice you have would
be appreciated. Thank you! Diana, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diana: even if I doubt that's going to
do much good, you can try to poultice with baby powder and acetone.
It's a more proper chemical than HD. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5022:
I chose verde marinache granite countertops for my kitchen. My "dilemma"
(or should I say my installers') is that I have a large corian undermount
sink and am determined to have the one seam that the countertop
requires in the middle of the sink. The installer thinks this is
crazy (is it really? Be honest I can take it!) because, according
to him, that is the one place nobody would put a seam. I would hate
to have a seam in the middle of my countertop :( Is there an easy
way to seam in the middle of a sink that he might not know of? Thank
you very much! Isabelle, May 02, Reply |
| R1:
I 'll recomend you to go with the seam in the center of the sink,
,cause is smaller seam (3.50") at the front of the counter
. same thing in the back of the sink instead of a 25.50" across
the counter. Tony |
| R2:
Dear Isabelle: I've
seen seams in the middle of the sink many a time. Actually, all
too many a time! I tend to agree with your fabricator. That particular
spot is the weakest part of the whole countertop and should be properly
rodded. Some fabricators make the split in that particular point
because, either they don't know how to rod, or they don't want to
bother; and if that area is not rodded there's the distinct possibility
that it's going to break while moving the countertop in. You could
try to discuss with your fabricator the possibility to make the
split in that spot, seam the two parts at the shop and then rod
across. The problem with that is that, besides the extra labor,
it would become a huge piece to take inside the house, and, due
to its sheer size, even if rodded there's a very good chance that
it's going to break in that point. If that happens, who's going
to take responsibility? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
