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Limestone Cure
/ Clean
| Areas: |
floors, benches, external
walls, interior walls, building walls, countertop, bathrooms, kitchens,
fireplaces, pool deck |
| Problems: |
dirty, darkening, stains, spots, scrathes,
holes, wear&tear, chipping, powdering |
Q 2336: We have a
limestone floor
that after a upper level flood, the water staining caused yellow/
brown stains. We think it may have been
from the dye in the carpet that was upstairs. We applied a poultice
to draw out the stains and it worked really well but now have a powdering
problem. It seems that the stained areas are still drying
out after over a month.
Is that all it is? They have shrunk by about 50% and we dust off the
powder almost daily. Any more input would be grateful. Derek. July
29, Reply |
R1:
Dear Derek: It looks like you're doing all right on your own! Maybe,
to speed up the
drying process, you my consider operating a de-humidifier in that
room. but if you don't have one, don't bother buying one, It will
dry by itself, eventually. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist |
| Q 2231: We have a bench
in front of our brick fireplace made of light gray limestone that
is cut and smooth, but not polished. Over the years, the place
where people sit on the bench in their grubby jeans has turned the
surface dark and greasy-looking. The ends of the bench are still
light gray. I've tried the usual household dirt/grease cleaners, but
they don't do a thing. Help, please.... Cheryl, July 15, Contact |
R1:
Dear Cheryl: Have your friends sit on the clean areas of the bench
until they become dirty, too!!
Jokes aside, try a solution of hot water and household bleach (3:1),
a natural fiber brush (tampico -- like the ones they used to do laundry),
and a few gallons of elbow-grease!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA |
Q 2210: I have just moved
into a 130 year old house in Sheffield in the UK with limestone external
walls. The walls are unsurprisingly
very grimey after 130 years and I am interested in the most suitable
solution for cleaning - is it best to sandblast, waterblast or
chemical clean? Whichever method is the most suitable, what products
(chemicals, biocides etc?) should I be using?
I am thinking of doing it myself (fairly good at DIY) and am keen
not to use a method which would require extensive repointing - the
pointing is actually fairly good as the house was repointed a few
years back (but the stone wasn't cleaned).
Could someone also advise what should be applied as a protective coat
once the cleaning has taken place? Many Thanks, ben, July 12, Reply |
R2: Dear
ben: Firstly I would really think twice about using an abrasive method
of cleaning such as sand blasting or using chemicals short term they
may have a pleasing aesthetic result. Long term you may impair the
stone face aesthetically and structurally.
You can send me a picture and I will try to help you. I am familiar
with conditions in industrialized cities such as Sheffield.
Any restoration should start with preparation so first make sure that
no organic material is in touch with the stone to avoid any dissimilar
reactions in future This includes anything that may be climbing the
stone façade such as creepers or Ivy Make sure flower bed earth and
any other material is not in contact with the façade above the DPC
level. It is also important to note that a healthy façade is one that
sheds moisture not retains it. It may be worth your while testing
various parts of the façade with a damp probe (you can rent them or
if you have a friend who is a building surveyor you might be able
to borrow one). Ensuring adequate ventilation is a must you actions
in cleaning the façade with high pressure water may cause more damage
than you think.
It is quite common in your climate that buildings are damp. When you
clean your façade you may find that the colouration of the limestone
varies significantly. Where moisture content varies and in trying
to achieve a homogenous finish during cleaning you could damage the
surface of the stone. be very careful around rain water goods as you
may well uncover stains where iron fixings have been used and the
current patination is covering this.
The most appropriate method of cleaning will be using a high pressure
hose system with an action nozzle such as a pulse effect.
Select a neutral area were you can test the effects of your labours.
Try spraying in circles and don't try to have too much effect in one
go (You can always let it dry and give a second treatment later).
Try to vary distances, action and angle to achieve the best finish.
Note the time and application to try to devise a way of achieving
the most appropriate homogenous finish. If surface treatment is evident,
such as sealants or anti graffiti paints or other because chemical
treatment, cease treatment immediately and consult an expert as often
when surface treatments have been applied to limestone delamination
of a surface layer occurs during the cleaning action. Delamination
occurs because surface treatments lock in moisture beneath the application
changing the physical make up of the stone. Natural patination can
also cause the same effect especially in heavily industrialised atmospheres
and where the stone has been well exposed (such as West facades against
the prevailing winds). Always try to avoid over saturating the stone
especially where the façade is shaded or where surface salts may be
present. If salt emission is high (if salt debris collects on the
surface), then you should correct this before you consider cleaning
as you may well provide the catalyst for future structural damage.
In a project like this, you should always ensure your façade is working
before attempting the cosmetic stuff, Steve, Poland. |
R1:
Dear ben: Personally I'm very much against sand-blasting. If it were
up to me, I'd ban
it alltogether!
If I were you, I'd try to power wash it with a solution of hot water
and bleach (4:1) keeping the pressure at no more than 900 PSI. Keep
me posted. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2152: I want to seal
recently installed natural limestone blocks
that are the exterior of my home.
Wind driven rain managed to soak through onto one floor
area I am in Lampasas, TX. Thank-you! Al, July 2,
Reply |
R1:
Al: I have been putting limestone veneers on homes in Central Texas
for 30 years now, and have never seen or heard of driving rain penetrating
the stone. Also, to the best of my knowledge, none of these stone
veneers where ever sealed. I am assuming that you have a standard
5 inch veneer wall What type of limestone is it? (chopped, flagging?)
Most often, the water penetration you describe is due to faulty sealing
around windows or doors, or it could be due to improperly installed
flashing.
I am not far from Lampasas, and would be glad to take a look at your
problem (at no charge), and point you in the right direction. Good
luck, JVC, USA |
| |
| A 2122:
We have a problem with staining from soap and toothpaste spatter on
a Pietra Serena (light grey) limestone slab
countertop in a master bathroom. The stone has a honed
finish. We've tried the sealant that was recommended to us through
the stone fabricator, but it still stains. The limestone is so porous,
that it is so susceptible to stains, and the homogenous
nature and color of stone makes the stains more pronounced. What can
you recommend? Thanks. Jeni, June 26. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeni: Your "stains" ain't stains. They are acid etches instead;
therefore, you can keep sealing your top with an impregnator/sealer
until you drop, but you will never be able to prevent them. Now, to
repair your surface damage (that's what acid etching is) you need
a professional stone refinisher. Maurizio, USA |
| A 2094:
I have an apartment complex with a large French limestone lobby.
It was put down about 6 years ago and is showing a lot of
dirt and wear. I have a very capable maintenance staff but
I need the product. Can you tell me where to get a cleaner.
Please do not recommend a outside company as my owners will not approve
it. Help! Charlotte, June 20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlotte: Well, now that we know that your boss wouldn't approve
an independent contractor that know what they're doing, and insists
at solving the problem "in house" with some "special"
cleaner, the only thing I can tell you is my salutation trademark,
that is ... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 2086:
I would be interested in a shower spray cleaner. Our limestone shower
(sealed) was put in two years ago and we have a soap scum build up.
I have cleaned it regularly with vinegar and water but it
really hasn't taken care of the problem. I would appreciate
a name of a stone cleaner for this purpose. Diane, June 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diane: They didn't give you much information about maintenance
of natural stone where you originally bought it, did they! What
a shocking surprise! Water and vinegar, uh ... That's a good one,
all right, especially for calcite-based stones!! Maurizio, USA, Expert
Panelist |
| A 2076:
I stupidly installed limestone in my kitchen
and after a few weeks have shadows, and one area of white spots
where lemon juice was spilled. The counters
have been sealed already, should I however have it re-honed and re-sealed?
Perhaps the original sealant was not of the best quality?,Vicki, June
17, Reply |
R1:
Dear Vicki: When you said "stupidly" you said it all. In fact, if
there were a remedy to your situation, it wouldn't be "stupidly",
would it!! :-)
The sealer has absolutely nothing to do with the etching (not staining)
that you have when you spill something acidic on the surface of your
top. Etching is not related to the porosity of the stone (which is
what an impregnator/sealer deal with), but exclusively to the chemical
makeup of the stone (Calcium Carbonate). No sealer under the sun can
protect your stone from acid etching. A good piece of advice:
Get rid of it and get over with your nightmare. You made a mistake,
don't stick to it. It's only money and, I believe, your mental health
is more important than money, isn't it! Sorry.,
Maurizio, USA |
| A 2040:
We recently had a beautiful fireplace installed with
a large light gray limestone mantle and header. A workman knocked
over scaffolding and put a 1 inch chip in the top edge of the
mantle. The masons have tried to patch the chip, but the color is
too light (white) and the patch doesn't have a crisp edge. Is there
anything that can be done to repair it so the damage isn't so noticeable.
The fireplace is the focal point of the room and the chip is very
obvious. Duwes, June 10.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dewes. What an unfortunate accident. Patching of chips and other
surface damage is an acceptable practice, and there are companies
that have spent a lot of time and research in developing patching
material to match different limestone. Obviously, whoever tried to
put the patch on your fireplace mantle did not have very much experience.
See if there is a stone restoration company in your area that can
handle the job, and make sure the contractor responsible for the initial
damage is going to pay. Now for the disclaimer. Patch is not stone,
and it will always have a different appearance, no mater how skillfully
applied. This becomes particularly obvious when a sealer is applied,
or the stone gets wet. Maybe having the contractor replace the stone
is the best fix for your problem Good luck, JVC, USA |
| A 2035:
Help! Our kitchen floor is a disaster area. We have laid 32sq m limestone
"Florence" from Mandarin. Prior to sealing it with 'lithofin' stain
stop we were trying to ensure the beautiful stone was perfectly clean
from grout etc. We used Wickes' patio cleaner (less than 10% hydrochloric
acid aaarghh) mixed with water 20/80 thinking this would be a weak
enough solution to do no damage. Unfortunately we were wrong. We have
a nude stone floor with sweep
marks and splashes which seem to be permanent and do not
know which way to proceed. Any ideas? Any magicians? Yes we were stupid,
but the heartbreak is punishment enough. Thanks for reading - depressed
yet still hopeful of Chester. UK. June 9. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chester: And we don't want no broken hearts, do we!! It's not
hopeless, but there's only one answer for you: Get a professional
stone refinisher. They will be able to re-hone your floor to a finish
very close to the original, thus eliminating the surface damage made
by the acid. It will cost you a pretty penny, but it's only money
and your heart will be mended! ,Maurizio, USA |
| |
A 1989:
I just read the attached answer
R2: I am very much against sandblasting. I declined good job opportunities
(to restore monuments or such), because the specs prepared by the
bureaucrats required sandblasting. If you're not convinced enough,
just take a look at the mess they did with Capitol Hill! The safest
way to clean limestone is to power-wash (with a pressure not any higher
than 900 PSI) the stone with plain water. This sound concept is pretty
old, and is due to the fact that back then there were not many specialty
chemicals available. Nowadays, however, there are some good cleaning
products that can be safely used to power-wash (still at a low pressure)
stone surfaces. The fact is that they do clean better than just plain
water. I hope I was not too late. Good luck, Maurizio, USA,
Maurizio: In your opinion is cleaning slightly sandblasted limestone
in pool deck with a
power-wash (pressure of no higher than 900 PSI) still
the best way to clean the limestone. Thanks, Aida, MEXICO, May
31. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Aida: Yes, it is Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| |
| A 1721: We had tumbled
Jura gray limestone installed in a steam
shower. After 10 days of use, rust spots are appearing
on the stone surface, not confined to any particular area of the
shower. They are not showing up near the shower head. Can you tell
me why this is happening, and what measures can be taken to stop this
if any? Jurri, April 17. Reply |
| R1:
You can try a commercial rust remover. Without seeing the installation
or knowing how it was installed I can't direct you. You probably want
to prepare yourself for an eventual removal of the material. Regards,
Steven, USA |
| |
| A 1654: What product
can be used to clean the surface of a variegated beige limestone
countertop that had a penetrating
sealer. This is new in a new bath/master suite area, the space still
unused. Various items were stacked on the countertop during 'moving
in', mostly books. A dull appearing dotted bluish residue
is in scattered areas. Rubbing with a micro fabric cloth
removes almost none. Advice? Garner. April 5. Reply |
R1:
Dear Garner: I have no idea as what your problem is. Staining? ...
From books? ... I really don't know. What I do know is that -- like
I have had the opportunity to emphatically state countless times --
I would not consider limestone in my own house if they'd pay me to
get it! Way too many problems of uncertain diagnosis and, most of
the times, with no solution.
but I guess it's too late now!... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA |
| |
| A 1393: I
just got a problem of scratch and spot hole (about 5x5x5 mm w/h/d)
with my limestone floor
on few places due some tools dropped, and black stains some areas
due wet surface. Is there any product / glue can repair those
scratch and spot holes? And how to clean the black stain? Thank
you. Prasong, Jan 31. Reply |
| R1:
The only way to repair the scratch is to sand
it off. For the holes, if it's deep enough, you can fill it with epoxy
glue to match the color. About the black stain, I have no idea how
it was formed & therefore, without that information, I wouldn't
know how to remove it., Maurizio, USA |
| A 1360: We
had a limestone floor
installed 2 weeks ago. The installer put the thinset on in the middle
and around the edges of the tile. The tile has remained dark where
the thinset was and where he did not put the thinset there is a
lighter ring. It's on all the tiles. because the stone is dark
gray, the installer used a dark thinset. We've since been told by
others that this was a mistake, that white thinset should be used
with limestone. Short of redoing the floor, do you have any solutions?
Mira & Tim, Jan 22, Reply |
| R2:
I don't know if the the thinset is completely dry. How much time has
elapsed since the limestone was installed? If it is less than a few
weeks, you may take the do nothing approach for a few more weeks.
Maybe it will continue to dry. I fortunately, have not had much to
with remedy this type of problem. Regards, Steven, USA |
| R1:
Dear Mira & Tim: Nope. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA |
| A 1278: After only a few
months, our new limestone countertops
are reminding us of every dinner party we've had since they've been
installed. The "water marks" from wine glasses or Coke cans aren't
so bad. but lately, we've noticed some "white scars" from
spilled food. How can we refinish the surface to restore
a consistency to the counter tops? Dick, USA, Dec 23. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Dick: This goes to prove once more (as if it were necessary!) that
calcite-based stones don't belong in a kitchen. It can be fixed, but
it's not -- by far -- a DIY project. Hire a good stone refinisher
and have him produce a totally flat finish (low-hone). It will help
minimize the visual effects of etching. Have it sealed, too. At least
it won't stain. I forgot the best piece of advice possible: GET RID
OF IT AND LIVE HAPPILY EVER AFTER! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio USA |
| A 1165: I would be very grateful
for any advice you can give me on cleaning bathrooms
with stone (polished limestone and tumbled marble) floors. How
do I clean the rest of the bathroom without damaging the stone?
This problem is driving me crazy. The cleaning and disinfectant products
typically recommended for the rest of the bathroom (walls and fixtures
of glass, mirror, acrylic, porcelain, ceramic, and nicked) are either
acidic or harshly alkaline, therefore potentially very damaging to
the stone. There are patches on the polished limestone dulled by something
or other (drops of toilet cleaner perhaps? Uric acid? Ammonia?). Can
you suggest a repair which will restore the luster of the floor -
as well as a simple (I am REALLY into SIMPLE) cleaning solution which
is safe to use on everything? I never dreamt that cleaning a bathroom
could be so complicated!!! Thanks !!! Ann, Nov 5, Reply |
| R1: To answer your
question, we suggest you contact a stone restoration company in your
area. A restoration mechanic can do the necessary repairs and perhaps
seal the floor. The regular cleaning of the stone after the process
should be very simple. Sincerely, Alicia, USA |
| |
| R2: Dear Ann: I pledged
with myself not to use this wonderful site to free advertise my products,
although, to the best of my knowledge, my company is the only one
that makes specific products for marble bathrooms (showerstalls).
I feel it would be distasteful, as well as unethical. Therefore, unless
you get in touch directly with me, I will answer your question in
generic terms, such as, "You do need specialty cleaning products",
which is something that you already knew. I want to take the opportunity
of this subject to make a comment. Your inquiry begs a big question:
"Why is it that you're coming to this site with your questions. Nobody
here is making any money by answering questions like yours (I don't
mean to be rude, just to drive home a point). How about the dealer
who sold the stone to you, and the setter who installed in your home?
They made good money out of the deal. Shouldn't they be the ones who
ought to make sure that you're going to enjoy what they sold to you
for years to come, by supplying you with some basic intelligence and
proper products?" It makes sense, doesn't it. Well, probably that's
exactly what's wrong with it! Ciao and get in touch with me, Maurizio,
USA
|
| |
| R3: Hello Ann, I hear
your frustration. I believe that simplicity can be achieved by recognizing
that all the products can be "cleaned" with one cleaner. The nickel
may be the exception but maybe not. It requires a neutral cleaner
that can be left on without taking it off. There are neutral marble
cleaners available in the market and I have recommended them many
customers. I am aware of an excellent product. The man who helped
formulate these products will not endorse them so I will. About the
dull areas you will need to call a professional in to repolish them
again. best of luck, Steven, USA |
| A 1174: Our building
has been standing for about 30 years and the lobby wall
& on each floor are covered up to half the height by polished
limestone slabs. We are having the building renovated (very slowly!)
& would like to know how to clean & restore the stone. (Here
it is the basic lining material for walls) The stone is quite dirty
& stained & of course quite dull after such a long time. Also
small areas are slightly eaten away due to the fact that
water leaked out from an apartment to the outer wall & of course
one can see the white salts that have been pushed out on to the stone
surface. Thanking you, Mervyn. USA, Nov 10. Reply |
R3: Mervyn, The process is two-fold. 1) You want to have the
limestone cleaned sufficiently to reveal any damage. 2) You probably
need the limestone restored in areas that have suffered the most damage.
For both of these tasks you need a professional marble restoration
company with people with proven track records. best regards, Steven,
USA |
| |
| R2: This is a job that you should probably have a professional
stone restoration person look at. Yes, there are ways to renew the
stone, but the process will depend on the nature of the staining,
the texture and density of the stone, etc etc. Surface dirt, and the
accumulated patina of time may be removable by a light sanding...
Random orbital sander or palm sander with a 60 grit or finer paper.
Some penetrating stains may be lifted out using the appropriate poultice
(described elsewhere on this site). Since most limestones do not,
by their very nature, polish (although some of them do) after cleaning,
there are special waxes, and/or sealers that would be appropriate.
However, there are so many variables here, that you would be wise
to seek out a professional in your area, and have the job actually
looked at. Good luck, JVC, USA |
| |
| R1: Hi, Grind, Hone, Polish & Seal. You need a professional
to do it. Pini, USA |
| |
| Thank you all for your information...I will bring your answers to
the Apartments Committee & see what they have to say!! Gratefully,
Mervyn |
A 1076: Care: Please
can you offer advice for specifying the correct sealant
to use on honed 'Panna' Limestone floor
tiles in bathroom areas? It is very urgent. Please could
you respond as soon as possible, thank-you! Alexzander, August 25, USA.
Reply
R1: If I were able to specify the "right"
sealer for each and every stone available on the marketplace (and counting!),
somebody would go as far as calling me GOD! Not one single sealer is universally
good on any stone, including my own. In the case of this "Panna" limestone
(by the way, "Panna" is Italian for cream), I have not the slightest clue.
Never heard of it before. Maybe I know that stone very well, but certainly
not under that name. The sealer that we make, is an impregnator for stone,
it is a very good product (to the best of my knowledge is the only one that
comes with a 20-year warranty), and covers a vast range of stones. All types
of limestone we've tested it on so far were pretty much sealed. All
I can say to you is
that it represents a good bet. Good luck, Maurizio, USA
A 996: We live in the only hand cut limestone
house in Oak Park IL. Lots of churches with the same stone
but no residential homes. The house had old large shutters that have been
taken off because we are having it tuck-pointed. Now we have dark dirty
stones where the shutter hung. Should we sandblast or have a chemical
limestone cleaner applied to the house? Contractors that do the
cleaning say never sandblast the limestone as it will pit and make it more
prone to absorbing dirt. Some contractors are telling me that the chemical
cleaners may not get the carbon monoxide out of some of the stone. I am
most concerned about whether or not sandblasting will alter the
stone or if chemical washing is the way to go. USA. May 24 reply
R2: I am very much against sandblasting.
I declined good job opportunities (to restore monuments or such), because
the specs prepared by the bureaucrats required sandblasting. If you're not
convinced enough, just take a look at the mess they did with Capitol Hill!
The safest way is to power-wash (with a pressure not any higher than 900
PSI) the stone with plain water. This sound concept is pretty old, and is
due to the fact that back then there were not many specialty chemicals available.
Nowadays, however, there are some good cleaning products that can be safely
used to power-wash (still at a low pressure) stone surfaces. The fact is
that they do clean better than just plain water. Good luck, Maurizio, USA
R1: Definitely don't sandblast
! You will definitely clean the stone, but surface damage is likely
to be extensive and lead to increased deterioration. The stone
should be treated with a biocide to kill any organic growth and then cleaned
by hot water low pressure cleaning. An alkaline or neutral detergent
can be used to assist removal of grime. Make sure you use a contractor
who has experience in heritage work - not someone who usually cleans brick
walls or removes graffiti. If biological growths on the stone are
a problem, get the contractor to spray biocide on the stone after cleaning
as well. Regards, Jim, Australia
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