| R3:
I am a stone sculptor.
I have done several large stone works both with granite and marble.
I would drill pin holes of 3/4 or 1 inch diameter in both the top
and the bottom stones, as deep as possible up to 12 inches. . Then
use slightly smaller diameter stainless Allthread for your connecting
pins. I would epoxy the pins in to the holes and apply the epoxy
well over the connecting surfaces. You can easily clean any excess
glue off with acetone and while it is still unset. There are several
good industrial epoxies. the type you can get for contractors who
work with concrete. the suppliers will know what type would be best
for your application. I hope this helps Don Hines |
| R4:
Would need more information.
What color is the marble for one. Eg: Green marble has different
properties as white marble. What size of pieces? etc...... ( Epoxy
comes to mind, but again more information would be useful), Centura |
| R5:
Depending on the sizes
and weight I would suggest a a combination of mechanical anchors
and 2 part stone epoxy like Akemi 5010. Regards, Steven |
| R6:
I understand that you
are looking for an adhesive to bond marble to marble for an altar
that you are assembling. You state that some of the pieces are quite
large. Is this an interior or exterior location for this alter?
If it were interior I would use simply silicone sealant. I would
place random .5 cm drops of silicone on the piece of stone that
will have the other piece of stone laid on top of. I would keep
these drops of silicone about 2.0 cm from the edge because you do
want this stuff to ooze out. This simple and inexpensive method
will safely secure large pieces (24hr cure time). For exterior use
a factory epoxy that one can tint to match the colour of the marble
is available. (go to the library, Beebe Quebec, Canada, yellow pages
will list stone industry suppliers of such material). Silicone will
work as well for an outside application but I would run a clear
small sealing bead of silicone in the joint area (to keep moisture
out) and trim the access, which has oozed out with a razor blade.
If you are attempting to glue smaller pieces (edges, lips, …)
I would stay with the available epoxies, tinted to the colour of
the marbles used. I hope I have helped. Andrew |
| R7:
Pat, Without the stone type & weight, it
is hard to make a recommendation. Usually, we would recommend Mapei
Kerapoxy mortar/grout for the best bond. Michael |
| R8:
Yes I have but You
should send me an email picture of how the pc is brooken and balanced.
Pictures from different point of vie. Rgds Pierluigi |
| R9:
He should use a resin
based material called DOMO. It comes in two parts. The resin and
the hardener. It is manufactured by an Italian company called TENAX.
Thanks Baksmaty |
| R10:
yes...the adhesive
is methyl methacrylate...mma a very thin material that is as strong
or stronger than epoxy. Jerry |
| R11:
we manufacture adhesives
for marble for that purpose. Best Regards, Mino , Italy |
| R12:
3part epoxy, Greg |
| R13:
You
might want to consider "pinning" the pieces together along
with an adhesive for strength, especially with weight involved.
As far as adhesive "Akemi" products are designed specifically
for stone and won't bleed into the marble. Laura |
| R14:
Dear Sir, there are
special resin that have been used to fill holes,crack lines, and
if they are of very good qlty, can be used to attack pieces of stone.
You may to contact some abrasivive sellers; they can say to you
which product is better for solve yr problem. Best regards. Linda |
| R15: There
are lot of filling and netting of marble is taking place in India.
please let me know how can i help you, Gaurav |
| It
was wonderful getting advice from those who have been there &
done that so to speak. I would heartily recommend your site to all
having "stone" questions. Thank you again for your help.
I'll let you know the outcome of our venture. Pat |
| Truly
a plethora of ideas. It's heartwarming that in this day & age,
people are so helpful. God bless them all. Pat |
| Q 2734: I
found this website to finally get answers to my questions about
my granite slab countertop. I've gotten so many differing opinions
about how to care for it, and whether or not it was a good choice
for my kitchen, that my head was spinning. Thank goodness for you
:o)! Luckily for me, I got Blue Pearl, which, I gather from
your site, is an Anorthosite, and an excellent choice for a counter
(no sealing required, not porous, and gorgeous to boot); so, my
problem is solved, my questions answered, but I was thinking, since
you say that the public has been hoodwinked by the word "granite",
and how it's been misdefined, couldn't you guys set up a database,
or at least a chart on this site, which breaks down the different
types of stone (of which Anorthosite is one) which make up the loose
term "granite", further categorize them by popular name
(Blue Pearl, Emerald Pearl, etc.), then give descriptions of what
they look like, their positions on a porosity/hardness scale, their
mineral make up, and which parts of the house would be the places
to use them? Is this too much work? I find this sort of thing fascinating,
and when I stopped patting myself on the back for having the good
taste to choose Blue Pearl, I started reading in earnest, and the
more I read, the more I realized that there was A LOT of information
here. Anyway, I think that all of this stuff is important, but I
still believe that the public would be grateful if you provided
a "quick and dirty" sort of chart to get this information,
based on the popular name of the product they're investigating.
Just my two cents, and thanks again for all of the info. Tani Hanes
Ripon, CA, Sept 14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tani: Blue Pearl could either be a Larvikite
(the ligh colored one), or an Anorthosite (Blue Pearl GT). In both
instances, they are an excellent choice. What you're requesting
is indeed a LOT of work, but it would be very useful. Unfortunately
nobody seems to be willing to pay for such a production! Free is
always welcome!! However, it is my understanding that one of the
panelists of this site is working on something like that right now.
So keep tuned! Maurizio, USA |
| R2:
Dr.Daniel, one of our expert advisors
has taken the trouble to prepare a table of popular / widely used
granites throughout the world along with images, similar stone and
absorption rates. We are honored and excited to present you The
World 's Most Popular Granites by Daniel. Click
here to see it. FindStone.com |
| Q
4791: Is it true granite
countertops and shower stalls need to be sealed an polished? If
so, could you recommend a sealer and polish? Please and thank you.
Feb 15, Reply
|
| R1:
No, it is not true. Polished, never. Sealed
(with an impregnator/sealer, that is), it all depends on the “granite”
at hands. If you want to know more, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as
you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What
more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4790: We are redoing a small kitchen area which runs along
one side of a great room. Our designer has recommended a soapstone
counter, but I have been hearing that it is difficult to keep looking
clean. Your expertise on this subject would be much appreciated.
Thanks. Feb 15, Reply
|
| R1:
It all depends on your definition of clean.
Some people complain that keeping a polished granite countertop
cleaned is more difficult than, say, Formica. If one uses the right
cleaning product, it’s not more difficult. Let’s just
say that since Formica doesn’t show soil as much as polished
granite … you fill the blanks! So, basically, it’s not
the actual cleanness that those type of consumers are interested
in (if they did, they should be grateful to polished granite, since
it mercilessly shows where they didn’t clean it well!!), but
they are rather more interested that the dirt doesn’t show!
:-)Clean is clean, period. Whether is granite, wood or soapstone.
Now, you may have a soapstone countertop that doesn’t look
clean, I grant you that. Well … that’s the “nature
of the beast”: no matter how actually clean it is, it never
looks so! At least to me it doesn’t! How important this is
to you, it’s up to you alone to decide. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| :Q 4788: I am interested
in purchasing Uba Tuba granite, but am concerned about the durability
of this granite. We are a young family who is expecting a house
of children. I am concerned that the top will stain easily even
after proper sealing. I have also heard conflicting information
about the durability of granite when it comes to placing hot items
directly on the granite- what is true? Would such a countertop be
more trouble than its worth? Elizabeth, Feb 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Elizabeth: Well, let’s put it this
way: if you plan to keep that house for the next … uh, say,
6 generations, then, maybe (and just remotely maybe!), when the
7th generation takes over, they may have to do something to an Ubatuba
countertop! For as long as you do NOT apply any impregnator/sealer
to it AND take proper care of it (in very simple ways), Ubatuba
is a material that’s as bullet-proof as they come!! It Is
definitely better than geological granite.Just as important –
if not more! – as the choice of the material, is the choice
of the fabricator. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4787:
I have seen these two recently and
would like to get more information on them. I would like to use
them for floors in a bathroom. what can you tell me about the qualities
of this limestone? Scott, Feb
15, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Scott: And which two did you see?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
PS: As a Maurizio’s
rule, stay away from limestone. If you like the look of it, get
hone-finished marble instead. But, hey, it’s just me!
|
| Q 4786: I have a marble
top table which was broken in four pieces.I have glued it back together.But,
Now I have cracks were it was broken from.What do I use to fill
in the cracks? Jennet, Feb
15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennet: You don’t. What you needc
to do is to hire the services of a bona fide stone restoration company.
It is not, by far, a DIY project. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4785:
I tried to cut corners building a home in Colorado when real estate
was high. Consequently, I think I made a mistake by buying cheaper
granite squares at about 1/3 the cost of all retail stores. The
granite is pretty on the counters and island, but it never seems
highly polished. I have tried a sealant, polish, Murphys and maybe
another solution or two to no avail. Do you have any suggestion
as to what I may put on the installed granite to achieve a high
polish without the veiny look? Thanks in advance, nahla,
Feb 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear nahla: No, I don’t. Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q 4784: Could
you offer me some advice as to my options concerning a stain that
occurred on some carrera white with black& gold vein marble.
The stain is a result of toilet bowl cleaner. It has affected about
four 12"square tiles. Is there any surface applied solutions
to lessen the "dulling" that has occurred? Thanks in advance,
antony, Feb 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear antonym: Nope, sorry.! You need to hire a bona fide stone refinishing
contractor. Now, you’d better watch out! Stone refinishing
is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from
a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of
quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a
chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor,
or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4783: I
have a brand new house and until today, a beautiful totaly black
granite in my kitchen. I decided to clean the hole counter top with
a product called CABOOM, after that the only think i want to do
is cry!!! The product ruined all my counter top ,it left stains
all over. My granite has not been sealed and i noticed that while
i was cleaning the surface , the sponge that i was using to clean
got dark. Please tell me what to do in order to have my granite
back without stains. Thank you. Carla. Feb 15, Reply
|
| R1:
: Dear Carla:
CABOOM!!! I really don’t know the chemical composition of
that stuff, but my understanding (based on previous postings) is
that’s pretty nasty!! Is THAT what your fabricator of GC suggested
to use to clean your “granite” with?! Anyway, we have
a few clues to go by:1. The stone had not been sealed. That’s
very good information. In fact, it excludes the possibility that
the impregnator/sealer could have gotten damaged by the CABOOM thing!
Black granite does not need to be sealed and you do NOT want to
seal it. What you have are NOT stains, no matter what they look
like to you.2. The other piece of information that makes me realize
the real nature of the problem is the fact that the rag became black.Now,
with those two pieces of information – which are crucial to
the finding of the solution – you go back to either your GC
or fabricator, and ask them to solve your problem. If it can be
of any consolation, the CABOOM stuff did NOT ruin your stone. It
only accelerated the “discovery” of an inherent fraud
that had been perpetrated on your stone by the factory that processed
the slabs.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4780: Hi,
we are planning to install a granite countertop with an undermount
sink in our kitchen. As part of the installation, some shops will
place steel rods on the back and front edge of the countertop to
"reinforce" the slap where the undermount sink is installed.
My question is whether reinforcing steel rods are strictly necessary
or is plywood underlay good enough. We are getting conflicting opinions
from the various shops that we have visited. Most do not use the
steel rods, or at least not unless the customers insist on it, they
claim that it is unecessary as most of the weight trasferred from
the plywood underlay to the base cabinet. Is this true ? Or should
I be insisting on the added strength provided by the reinforcing
rods. Many thanks in advance, Gloria, Feb 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gloria: Many don't volunteer "rodding" simply because
is extra work that is never calculated at the time of the estimate.
It does make a big difference, plywood or not. Do insist on it.Now,
remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and,
as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not
likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer
(when end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and
dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the
boiling point at the speed of light!). Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4778: I had a kitchen
sink installed that was made out of a honed black granite. One of
the seams appears to be leaking. Can anyone recommend a product
to fill the seam to stop the leak? Steve,
Feb 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Steve: Well, epoxy would be the very best, but I never encourage
homeowners to apply it themselves. I consider it a professional
product. Call the original fabricator back and have them tackle
the problem. If not, as a second best solution, you should consider
silicon caulking. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4777:
I am remodeling my kitchen and assumed granite was the very best.
After surfing your site I realize their are many choices even within
a granite. My wife likes Giallo Veneziano We cook alot, drink alot
of wine and want something that can stand up to our parties. Where
do you suggest we get our granite? Should we consider a different
kind of granite that has a lower absorption rate. Your site was
incredibly informative but I think I need to spend more time learning
about all the info you posted. What is the very best (least maintenance
and most impervious) granite and also what are some close seconds
(in case my wife doesn't like the look of the strongest). Faustino,
Feb
15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Faustino: Giallo
Veneziano, if it was “resined” by the factory would
be an excellent choice. If not, there are good impregnator/sealers
that will take care of its rather high absorbency rate; but then
again, a product, any product, is just as good as the operators
who applied it!As a loose rule of thumbs, darker mercantile granite
are typically denser that light colored ones, but I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 4776: I
have recently moved into a new home in which we are having issues
with the builder concerning the installed granite. In the kitchen
we have about 60 square feet of black galaxy bar top and center
island and also about 60 square feet of Uba Tuba countertop. In
the bath we have about 20 square feet of what the supplier calls
Butterfly. The Uba Tuba has 1 inch spots and about a six to eight
inch border along the tile backsplashes where the surface appears
to be crazed. What look like small fractures appear as small white
lines penetrating the surface. It looks as if the color has
been sucked out of the stone although I know this is not the case.
What could the tile guys or the cleaners have used to create this
condition. The builder and several installers have tried various
techniques including wax and a blow torch but have had no success.
I have been successfull on my own in removing a couple of the smaller
but more obvious spots using a product called Opticon, heat lamps,
about an hour of soaking time and a lot of patience. This is an
epoxy based product which is used by lapidaries to hide fractures
in stone. The Black Galaxy does not seem to have been affected by
whatever caused this while the Butterfly shows only minimal effect
about an inch or two along the tile backsplash and is hardlynoticeable.
Aside from having the granite replaced (and trashing the cabinets
in the process) is there a wise solution for this problem. Is the
epoxy a good idea or is this a temporary fix that I should not divulge.
What could have caused this problem in the first place. Thanks in
advance for any insight you might have for me. James,
Feb 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear James: What I'm going to say is going to shock you, no doubt.
And, since it would be a first on Ubatuba (with doubious result),
I won't be charging anything for my consultation. By your description
it loos like the damage was caused by a heavy blunt object hitting
the surface of the stone hard enogh to produce a type of damage
known in the industry as: STUNNED CRYSTALS or INNER FRACTURING.
I actually believe that the latter definition fits best your particular
situation (stunned crystal is more typical of true geological marble).
The Black Galaxy shouldn't do that, though. The official prognosis
is gloomy: no possible repair. But, you know me! ... Since I think
out of the box all the time (sometimes once too many!!) I solved
a problem like that on an Anorthosite (Volga Blue), by paying a
visit to ... the PEP BOYS store near me!!I bought a $6 kit to repair
small windshield cracks, which consists of a very thin penetrating
clear epoxy glue and a suction pump to create a vacuum. I just followed
the directions on the kit and ... it worked! It makes sense, too,
because we're basically looking at the same kind of damage. Now,
whether it's going to work on Charnockite (Ubatuba and Verde Butterly),
it's up to you to find out! My gut feeling tells me that it just
might! It's worth trying. It sure beats replacing the slabs!! What
I am asking in exchange for this information is that you keep me
updated. Then, if it does work, I wouldn't mind if you decide to
become one of our numerous and loyal valued customers by purchasing
some of our fine products for the maintenance of your beautiful
stones!Fair enough? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4775: I
have a new counter top of of ubatuba. In the construction process
of the house the granite was stained or has spots of crazed areas
close to where the backsplash was installed. The fabricator has
tried black wax heated with no sucess. We have tried small area
with a fracture sealer and with good results. My question is would
this be advisable or should I have the contractor replace the whole
piece. It is a complicated radius edge with expensive glass tile
that butts up to it. I know the sealer works on small areas will
it work on a larger area? Any help or commets would be appreciated.
Thanks Annette, Feb
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Annette: Just try! It's an uncharted territory
for me, too! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4774: We overwatered
a house plant creatintg a large puddle. We were gone for a week
and upon returning discovered the puddle which had not evaporated.
The water in combination with the dirt from the plant has etched
our travertine and left an ugly brown mark. Help, what can we do?
Thanks for helping. Nancy, Feb
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nancy: I would first ask the dealer who
sold the stone to you, and / or the contractor who installed it
in your house to help you out. If they won’t, I do believe
I have the solution to your problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4773: I
have a 2000sqft area laid with an off-white terrazzo. This was done
whilst buiders were on site and before landscaping was done. As
a result there was red clay-like mud tracked over the tiles, and
not cleaned off until the end of the building job. We cannot get
the mud stains out - it has been suggested that this red mud has
oxide in it and this has penetrated and stained the terrazzo. Would
a product such as hydrogen peroxide remove these stains? Lance,
Feb 14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lance: "whilst" … are
you Brit, or somethin'?! :-) Answering to your question, yes, it
should: 30 / 40 volume, clear, on a poultice. Just make sure that
such a strong HP won't damage the cementitious part of the tile.
Test it on a spare first. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4772: Please help
me, my wife has just tried to melt butter on top of the fire and
it has turned to liquid and dripped all over the sandstone harth,
what is the best way to remove the stain , Simon, Feb
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Simon: When it comes to stain removal,
either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits"
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4771: Is
travertine an acceptable kitchen flooring material? Will it standup
to dropped acides, i.e. vinegar, citrus, etc? Jai, Jan, Feb
14, Reply |
| R1:
Especially in its polished form, no, it won’t.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4769: We
just installed tropic brown granite countertops in our kitchen.
They are beautiful and the craftsmanship is excellent with one exception:
There is a 6 inch diameter spot on one counter that is discolored
a grayish shade with a few spots of black and brown. We are not
happy about this as we had requested that this "flaw"
in the slabs be worked around. The installer refers to this spot
as "the eye of the tiger". Ever heard of that? Any more
information on this kind of "natural defect" would be
appreciated. (still not sure if we're going to make them take it
all out) Thanks Teresa, Feb
14, Reply |
R1:
Dear Teresa: Yes, it's possible. Whether you like it or not (personally
I would probably keep it), or whether there was a certain agreement
with the fabricator about that, is not for me to comment. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4767: I
am considering specifying a kitchen island topped with either (what
the supplier calls) "Tropic Brown" or "Baltic Brown".
Do you know what country these come from, whether they are suitable
for a kitchen island and if they should be sealed periodically?
I will do the lemon juice test to see how much they absorb. Thanks!
Tammi, Feb 14, Reply |
R1:
About the country of origin, etc. I encourage you to consult Dr.
Daniel table of the 150 most popular granites. Other than that,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! I did write a very interesting article
on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small
price tag, but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while
you’re out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll
be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get
all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don’t
become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4766: We
would like to a gray stone floor in our foyer and bathrooms. We
were thinking of cardoso stone tiles, or perhaps a resilient, hard
limestone (is there such a thing?). My questions are: -What matte
grey stone would you recommend?-How should the subfloor be prepared
(i.e., thickness of plywood, special membranes, etc.)? How big can
the tiles safely be to avoid cracking - 12"x12", 16"x16"...?
Is there an installation guide you can recommend? -Maurizio, do
you have a maintenance booklet for this that I can buy from you?
Thank you! Monika, Feb
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Monika: Resilient, hard limestone? …
Mmmm … I don’t think so. Not the last time a checked
there weren’t any!! Pietra Cardos (or Pietra Grigia) is “your
man”, since it’s a sandstone. Quite an absorbent material,
though! I would set it on epoxy, or, as a second best, use rapid
setting stone adhesive (it’s like white thinset and gets applied
like regular thinset, but become hard in 15 minutes. Funny stuff,
but it works!!). After that, the stone will need to be sealed with
a good-quality stone impregnator and kept it properly from there
after. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4765: I
marked the cuts for the bullnose around our sink with a permanent
marker, so they would not disappear during the grinding process.
Trouble is the obvious, I can't get the marker stains out. Is it
a lost cause? Is it fixable? Feb
14, Reply |
| R1:
Let’s say it’s not a sure thing, but, maybe …
I would give it a try. When it comes to stain removal, either you
buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that
no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or
you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4764: I have a new
home with a grey/black speckled countertop. does oil 'hurt' the
granite? Apparently the granite was not sealed and there is oil
staining around the stove. I kind of like the used look it gives
the countertop and was thinking of oiling the rest of the countertop.
If it does cause actual damage to the granite I need to poultice
the stain and then seal it. Also, can the granite be tinted and
would tinting damage the granite? Thank you for your help. Sue,
Feb 14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sue: No the oil wouldn’t damage
the granite, but I consider the idea highly unsanitary. The oil
will never cure and get rancid over time. No, granite can’t
be tinted. It will never get uniform and will look terrible. Your
best bet is to poultice the oil stains out and then seal the countertop
with a good-quality stone impregnator. After that, learn how to
take proper care of it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4761: We recently
bought a house in the Miami area. While looking at the house we
were told that it had "rustic marble" and that's why there
were holes in the floor. Well, in the three months we've lived in
the house the holes have gotten more numerous and deeper. My wife
had a contractor come in to give us a quote on refinishing the floor
and he told us we have Saturnia marble that has not been maintained.
He said that the holes would have to be filled and then the entire
floor polished. He was also honest in stating that because the holes
are so numerous that he can't guarantee that the final job will
look good. He gave us a quote of $2000 for the entire job.
First, I feel like a total idiot
for believing the line about "rustic marble." Second,
is there any way to get a Saturnia marble floor full of holes
to look good? Third, if the re-finished floor is not going to
look very good, are we throwing good money after bad? Should we
just replace the floor?Thanks! Craig, Feb
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Craig: The definition of “rustic
marble” means … whatever you like, I reckon! Anyway,
it make reference to what it could be better defined as a “Mediterranean
look”, due to the fact that in the Mediterranean basin they
hardly have polished marble floor. They’re all hon-finished,
like your Saturnia stone came originally from the factory. The reason
why you have all those holes is because Saturnia is not a marble,
but a cross-cut travertine, and, as everybody knows, travertine
is full of holes! The holes are typically filled by the factory
with cementitious material. The idea of filling the holes and polishing
the floor does not sit well with me. First off, if the holes didn’t
open again because of some political unrest in Guatemala, but, most
likely because the stone itself was a very poor grade (you know,
those “special” sales!!); therefore, filling them again
may turn out to be a total waste of time and monwy. Second, polishing?
… Yes, travertine it can be polished, but the contrast between
the polished stone and the dull filler of the holes will be magnified.
All in all, bad news, I’m afraid! But hey, it’s only
money! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4760: Our basement
is made out of sandstone and we want to redo it. Can our landscaping
be saved or do we have to dig the whole basement up and put in a
new one. Can it be done wall by wall? Bush, Feb
13, Reply |
| R1:
Bush. Just one question. How are you going
to hold the house up while you replace the basement? JVC, Expert
Panelist |
| |
| Q 4758:
I have just put into my kitchen and
den..black polished granite. The look is gorgeous but I cannot keep
it clean. Everything seems to stick onto the surface and I have
to scrub it hard to get the grime off ..and then the shine gets
dull. Can you please tell me how I should clean it..I am really
going crazy from this floor. thanks so much, Susan, Feb
13, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: It sounds to me like your dealer
and installer didn’t give you much intelligence about properly
maintain the stone they sold and install in your house, did they!
It’s a subject that’s all too often overlooked and neglected
and, as you can tell! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4757:
I am interested in sculpting stone. I have never tried it, but have
done some research via books and a video. My biggest problem is
locating a local source to buy limestone or travertine. I live in
Arizona. Any advice or resources you know of close by? I would be
willing to go to California to pick stuff up, but I don't know of
anyone who sells in small quantities.Thanks for any help you can
give. Sunny, Feb
13, Reply
|
| R1:
Sunny. Try and find a local stone yard, or
landscaping outfit, and see if they have any Texas creme on hand.
It is a good limestone for novice sculptors, easy to carve and shape,
and will not be as frustrating to you as one of the harder stones.
After you get a little experience under your belt, see if you can
come up with a piece of Indiana limestone - one of the best around.
If you can't come up with anything locally, conyact me through this
web site. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 4754: I am thinking
of installing approximately 465 sq. ft. of travertine in my playroom.
My husband will do it, but has never done this type of stone. He
has done tile flooring, brick pavers outside, and flagstone outside.
I am having trouble finding literature on
"how to" install travertine. Can you suggest anything?
I saw somewhere where you use slip sheet between the floor and
the stone and that NO joint is the preferred method. I like the
butted look, but he would rather put a joint in.
Questions: I love the look of travertine,
is it okay to put it in a playroom (18 x 18 in' squares) (no small
children; not a lot of traffic, just a TV room for my husband
and I.) Will he have trouble installing it if he never installed
marble or travertine before? Where can I get a book of "how
to" for travertine? Do you suggest a joint? Do you have to
put a sealer on it when you are done? I saw it very inexpensive
did you ever hear of them, what are the problems I could run in
to.Thank you so much, I always love going to the experts, Virginia,
Feb
13, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Virginia: If you love going to the experts, you should also
love going to the professionals!! I will certainly not advise your
hubby to do such an installation! “Butt-joint” is a
grave mistake. 1/16” grout gap is “your man”.
Other than that, it’s in Lady Luck hands, if he insists at
doing it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 4753: I have a marble
floor that has pitted and spalled. I cannot determine the cause
of the pitting. Here are the known facts:
Pitting only occurs at a bay window where there is direct afternoon
sunlight on the marble floor thru non-clear glass panes.
Away from the window there is no damage.
Not all tiles in the area have the damage. Some are worse than others.
There might a severely damaged tile with the adjacent tile not being
damaged.
There has been some water leakage around the window and water likely
got below some of the tiles. No water has been observed on tops
of the tiles but the wall below the bay window has water damage
indicating water might have filtrated below the tile.
Heavy furniture has not been on the tile and the tile is not subject
to foot traffic.
The tile is mopped regularly.
Thank you for your help. Terry, Feb
13, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Terry: You already reached the diagnosis:
Water under the tiles! The only remedy is to replace the tiles after
addressing the problem of the infiltration of water, of course.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4750: I have been
attempting to find pricing for the various restoration procedures
used to polish marble.. Specifically honing/polishing powders, vitrification
& diamond polishing. I realize this varies from regions across
the USA, however even broad ranges would help at this point. By
the way I live in Portland, Oregon, Steve, Feb
13, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: Vitrification (or crystallization)
can hardly be defined as polishing. They are practices that are
meant to make professional stone refinisher out of people that will
never learn the real thing. Besides being phony, it’s quite
a bad practice, too.As a matter of fact, stone refinishing is the
very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! PS: No matter where you live,
I wouldn’t consider anything under $3.00 per square foot.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4749: Is
there a way chemicaly to stain granite. I am a sculptor and I would
like to attempt this if it is possible Thanks Randy, Feb
12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Randy: Thank goodness, to the best of
my knowledge, there aren’t any!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 4748: In several
of our newly decorated hotels we used flamed granite (Rosso Torino
but looks much like Rosso Toledo to me)
this granite is installed in all of our showercubicles. This stone
was not treated upon installation. the problem is as follows: despite
daily scrubbing the granite gets white and unsightly, regardsless
which chemicals use. we would be much grateful if you could let
us know soonest what to do thank you and looking forward to your
reply, Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Where are these hotels located? Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There’s a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but I’ll be glad
to help. What’s more I will even tell you how to get all of
your money back! What more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4747: HELP I AM SO
CONFUSED. I AM DOING MY MASTER BATH OVER.I HAVE FOUND A TRAVERTINE
TILE I WANT TO USE FOR MY FLOOR AND THE SHOWER WALLS. I WENT TO
ANOTHER STORE TODAY WHO TOLD ME TRAVERTINE WAS NOT GOOD FOR A SHOWER
AND WOULD NOT HOLD UP. WHAT IS THE REAL STORY? PLEASE HELP! ( IiS
CERAMIC A LOT BETTER?) Robin, Feb
12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Robin: The real story is that travertine
is indeed a very enjoyable material for the purpose of your project.
All it takes is the right type of intelligence about its proper
care. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 4746: I
have recently purchased a home with a limestone fireplace. It
has little draft control and no fresh air intake. Looks good but
not very efficient. My problem is the smoke and soot rises out
the doors leaving black coloration on the limestone. It has no
mantle so this goes all the way to the ceiling. Is there a cleaning
solution I can use to remove these stains easily? Rick,
Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rick: It all depends from your own definition
of “easily”! :-) The recipe is quite simple: water,
bleach and elbow-grease! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 4745: My wife recently
purchased a marble tabletop for our dining area. One of my children
place a glass of water on it and left it there overnight. The condensation
let a terrible ring. How do we get read of the ring? Neil, Feb
12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Neil: It it were only water and the ring
looks darker than the rest of the stone surface, it will go away
by itself. If it look duller and of a slightly lighter color, then
get hold of the merchant who sold the top to you and them to solve
the problem. If not, you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4744: I've recently
had a new granite floor installed in my kitchen, black - highly
polished, which upon installation looked terrific.
But, after accidently dropping various foodstuffs
on it, and doing my best to make sure it's wiped up immediately
I've notoced some awful looking stains. The stains look like they've
gone into the granite itself, and no amount of water and soap
seems to remove it.
I daren't use any other products
on it until I know I'm not going to damage this expensive floor.
The stains were probably caused by lemon juice, carrot peel, potato
peel and grapes. A strange mixture, but then, it is a kitchen..Can
you help? Please! kind regards, Mike. Feb
12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mike: Unless the installer applied an
impregnator sealer on your tiles (which would be the culprit), it
may be a “black granite” that had been “doctored”
by the factory (a fraud, that is). Have you dealer and contractor
tackle the problem. They are the professionals who made good money
out that expensive floor, are they not! If not, you can opt to get
in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 4743: We are installing
granite counter tops in our kitchen. We would like to use smaller
pieces as accents in the tile back-splash and in some other locations
throughout the house. The largest piece would be about 6" and
most would be 4" squares. In order to use these pieces, they
need to be roughly the same thickness as "normal" granite
tiles, so that they will fit in with the ceramic tile. For reference,
the "granite," if that is what it really is, is called
Desert Blue and comes from Brazil. No pre-made tiles are available.
Questions:
1) Is it possible to take remnant pieces of the slab and have it
"sliced" into the proper thickness for use as tile? I
realize that only one surface would remain polished, but we have
enough to use just the pieces with the polished surface.
2) Our concern is that the cost will be prohibitive to do this.
What would a rough estimate be for this work?
3) We are located in Northern California. Our fabricator has said
that they will not do this work. Can some recommend a fabricator
that will do it? Thank you for any information. Michael, Feb 12,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: Everything is possible! But it takes two
factors: 1. Finding a facility that has the equipment and know-how
to do it. 2. Your ability to get a second mortgage on your house!!
:-)Yes, it would be cost prohibitive. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4742: I just had
Black Granite countertops installed and the suction cup marks that
I was told would not be there when I "viewed" my stone
before installation are still there! No sealer has been applied
but they cannot seem to remove these rings. A poultice was used,
black wax (covered them up), and then lacquer remover---they have
faded some but in bright sunlight they pop out. Any suggestions?
I am worried that I got a bad piece of stone. Thanks, Mary, Feb
12, Reply |
| R1:
: Dear Mary: No, you didn’t get a bad piece of stone, unless
… The only sure way to remove those marks is to use a polishing
powder for marble (that’s right, it’s not a typo) on
them. Of course, one has to know what to use it with, and how to
use it. Your fabricator – who made good money out your deal
– should know, or, at least, should try to learn how. If they
are interested, I do offer training services, for a price. Tell
them to get in touch with me at: info@findstone.com. There’s
a little maintenance fee to be paid (as they will be told), but
it’s only pocket change. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4741: I sure am glad
I found your site BEFORE my counters have been installed. We are
building a new house and having granite countertops installed in
the kitchen. We have chosen Giallo Santa Cecelia due to the color
and how it works with the ceramic tile floors, cabinets, etc. What
I would like to know now is how will it perform. What is your opinion
of this stone regarding absorbency of water and oil? Does it need
to be sealed? Can I put hot pots directly on the surface without
concern for cracking? Thanks. Jay, Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jay: If the slab had been “resined” by the factory,
then it may not need to be sealed. If not, it will for sure, and
quite well, too! Other than that, it’s a good stone. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4740: We
have travertine in our foyer and bathroom, which is only three years
old. We have noticed that in heavily trafficked areas and in the
bathroom, the stone seems to be discoloring. The grains are turning
dark (it looks like dirt) that we cannot clean. Do you know what
this is and how to restore the stone? George, Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear George: Yes, I do know what it is: it’s
called wear and tear. And, yes again, I do know how to restore it
(after all I’m a professional stone refinisher!!). The problem
is that you don’t!! :-) You need the services of a good restoration
contractor.Now, you’d better watch out, especially with travertine!
Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all the activities related
to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there
are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4739: I was told
that Limestone is too porous for kitchen countertops, but that Halila
Limestone and Jerusalem stone can be utilized for Kitchen countertops.
What is Jerusalem stone? Is Halila a jerusalem stone? Would you
recommend either for the kitchen? Thanks. Carla, Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Carla: The porosity of the limestone is
only one issue (and the and the least important) of the non-suitability
as a kitchen countertop. The other one being its chemical makeup,
namely calcite. I don’t know about this Halila stone, but
I do know Jerusalem. Yes, it’s denser, but … it’s
still calcite! If you are in a Mediterranean state of mind –
by which you can’t wait to see your stone getting “better”
over years of abuse – then Jerusalm is it’s quite all
right. But, by my experience in this country, to most Americans
the “better” of the Mediterranean cultures translates
into “ugly”!!You decide in which side you are! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4736: Just finished
reading your explaination about cleaning and caring for marble.
I have made the mistake of leaving a basket of fruit on my marble
counter top. It has dripped fruit juice from citrus and has done
just what your mentioned in your care of. There is a rough spot
about the size of a silver dollar that has turned somewhat white.
How do I get rid of the roughness and get it polished back to it's
surrounding area? Doug, Feb 12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Doug: I like to make a sale like the next guy, but being that
the “stain” is rough, you need to hire a professional
stone refinisher. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4732:
Do you know anything about the hardness, durability of this granite?
We have a sample, and I'm going right in to do your lemon juice
test, but no one seems to mention this one on your site. Any opinions?
Thanks so much! Dian, Feb 12, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dian: I hope it’s
not going to shock you, but it would help knowing which one granite
you’re talking about, don’t you think? :-) Anyway, did
you consult Dr. Daniel’s table?Regardless, I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Maurizio, Expert |
| Q 4731:
I have jade green countertops in my
kitchen. After exposure to lemon and vinegar, they are stained.
Short of hiring a stone refinisher, is there anything that you can
recommend I do? Please help, Alexis, Feb 12, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Alexis: Gorgeous stone, very expensive, one of the worst possible
choices for a kitchen countertop. Nope, you do need a professional
and an extremely good one, too! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle
of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point
of view. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4730: I purchased
an "antique chiseled" travertine from a retailer and now
that I am looking for an installer I realize how difficult it is
to find someone who knows what to do with it. The stone is unpolished
and unfilled. While I like the rustic look and the chiseled edges,
the body of the stone has a lot more holes in it than I thought
it would have. Is there a way to fill the holes with grout or other
substance in a way that does not massacre the natural look of the
travertine or is unfilled stone "supposed" to remain just
that--unfilled. Joanna Miami, Feb 03, Reply
|
| R1:
Joanna, there is a way to fill the holes of the travertines,using
resin and other substances mixed. But,only if you like that kind
of finished. On the other hand there is a rustic looks that doesn't
need to be restored. The problem is not to fill the holes. The problem
is the knowledge of the installers. There are several kinds of looks
for a travertine item. All this depends of what you wanna do with
your travertine(washbasin,decorations,columns,etcetera). There are
as well,different kinds of forms for the finishing of the item polished,unpolished,bright,rustic,aged,etcetera).
I'm a Mexican suplier of travertine items for the designers and
installers. We have the expertise. If you or some friends of you
wanna see what we produce,contact me if you wish. Humberto. |
| R2:
ITS A NIGHTMARE TO CLEAN EDGES GET BLACK WITH DIRT AND SUN TAKES
OF COLOR HOLE CRACK FORGET IT, IF YOUR LOOKING FOR A SIMILAR LOOK
LESS HEADACHE ASK FINDSTONE TO PUT YOU IN TOUCH WITH ROBBIE OR JILL
REEVES AT ROCOCO MARBLE.COM AND THEY WILL PUT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
REGARDS ROBBIE. |
| R3:
I m in the granite
field we do all these fillings &fixings without spoiling its
natural appearance so if u mail me its foto i can suggest some methods,
Yusuf |
R4:
Joanna,
it all depends on what you intend to do with it. If your unfilled
travertine is to be used as outdoor flagging there is no reason
to fill it. Bed it on gravel and allow for drainage. Rain water
will pass right through and cause no harm as long as it doesn't
freeze. If you're actually in Florida that shouldn't be a problem.
In time, moss will discolour the stone, possibly make it slippery.
High pressure cleaning (with water!) once a year should keep that
down. Don't use chemicals. They kill the stone.
If you want to clad a wall the same applies. Allow for drainage
and expect moss.
If you want to use the stone for indoor flooring, you need to consider
that the openings in the surface will fill with whatever fits. Eventually,
all the spaces will be full of household dirt. Perhaps not to everyone's
taste...
In this application, filling with grout would be advisable. Industrially,
this is done with polyester or epoxy resin, and then honed smooth
by machine. This results in a perfectly flat surface. For a more
natural look, try cement-based grouting. Try different shades, colours.
Apply over the entire surface and wash off excess with a sponge
and plenty of clean water. Wash and wash again to prevent staining
of the visible stone surface. Do tests on sample pieces before making
any decisions. Nice choice of stone! Good luck. Ralf Nagel
|
| R5:
I HOPE YOU HAVE A GREAT VACUUM? IF YOU KEEP
THE TRAVERTINE UNFILLED YOU'LL BE ASKING FOR A MAINTENANCE NIGHTMARE.
BUT IF YOU LIKE........... BAG GROUT YOUR JOINT, WASH, THEN SLURRY
COAT YOUR TILE AND THE ACID WASH YOUR TILE. THIS WILL TAKE THE ALPHROLRENSENT
FROM THE TILE..... CITRUS ACID IS BEST BUT YOU CAN HAVE YOUR INSTALLER
USE DELETED ACID. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE ACID, IT'S HOW THE FACTORY
FAKED THE TUMBLED EFFECT TO YOUR STONE. Peitrabiz |
| R6:
We use that same stone on a # of projects
and it looks great the way it is supposed to be installed which
is smear grout over everthing and wipe off as much as you want.
Be sure to fill all the holes with grout before wipping off. the
grout color should match some of the lighter tones in the stone,
this is because you will be using it to fill not only your straight
lines but also sections in the centers of the tiles. If you used
a darker color or a contrasting color it would stand out too much.
Then seal the whole thing with a good no sheen penetrating sealer
like Miramat.A quart goes a long way and is about $40 around here.
For weekly cleaning My stone guy sells a product called "Stone
Soap" it seals the stone everytime you use it and is very cheap.
tough stains can always be removed using white vinager. Don't use
any clorine type cleaners. Good luck and Kevin |
| R7:
There is a polyester
glue called Travertine spackel and the color is just perfect fot
the filling of the stone that you have purchaced, you could fill
only the holes that you dont like and leave the smaller ones unfilled,
The glue can be easly cleaned off with acetone before it drys and
do not use a razor blade to this stone it wil;l scratch and also
hone the stone if not used correctly..The glue can be bought at
a granite supply store or look online...scott |
| R8:
Hello , in Maimi - as for your questions,
why did you buy the stone unfilled/ Its true that its cheaper unfilled.
Lots of people want thier stones to look as natural as possible
and also antic looking. So they opt for unfilled. Yes you can have
it filled by the contarctor with a matching grout. Its no big thing
to installed allthough it requires more backing (glueing) material.
Rahul |
| Q 4725: I
inherited a 54" round marble table recently and over the Christmas
season a relative placed too much weight on the edge and cracked
a 18" X 3" piece off the edge. Can this be repaired or
is it time to send the relative to IRAQ? Any help and advice Will
be greatly appreciated. Mark, Feb
03, Reply |
| R1:
I would recommend a very close color of epoxy grout to make it look
like a vein? Or several, sections at a time, to match up to multiple
colors? Would be very expensive and tedious...Good Luck, Stephaine |
| R2:
The answer depends
on the application and the aesthetic you are trying to achieve.
Many times when we are dealing with stones of this type and want
to preserve the unfilled look we use an epoxy sanded grout to fill
the back side of the stone so the substrate will not show.
The installation should be approached
with concern as there is one way to do it correctly and several
ways to do it incorrectly.
Pick the professional
that you can communicate your wishes to easily and invest in a
finished sample (mock up) of the installation before it starts.
Good luck Steven
|
| Q 4704: I
have installed ceramic tiles before, but never the Uba Tuba granite
tiles I purchased for a foyer and fireplace hearth. From the research
I've done, this seems to be the deal. I would greatly appreciate
any other tips: The foyer has a rough concrete floor so I will hit
it with a skim coat of thinset to even the surface, then use a 3/8"
notch for the non-organic, non-fast setting, non-sanded thinset
(!) to the back of each 12" x 12" tile. I'll space the
tiles 1/16" inch and use black grout. I don't know if I need
to seal it with anything, and does the saw blade need particular
specifications? The hearth is going over plywood, so I will seal
that first. Thanks very much. Doug , MA,
Feb
3,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Doug: It seems to me that you have it pretty much under control.
Just make sure to use a water-proof membrane, IF the cement slab
is right on the ground! No, Ubatuba does not need to be sealed.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4703:
We have installed dark green granite tiles in our kitchen and the
black grout has left a haze, almost like it scratched the tiles.
We did seal the tile first. Any thoughts on how to get the haze
off? Thanks, Judy, Feb
3, Reply |
| R1:
Did you ask the retailer who sold the marble tiles to you, or the
contractor who installed them? They made good money out of the deal
and, I’m sure, they’ll be glad to help you. If not,
I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Maurizio, Expert
PAnelist |
| |
| Q 4697: My husband
and I are planning to build in early Spring and really want to use
stone on the outside of the house. We are curious about cultured
stone and the actual "stone". I have been told that cultured
stone has a 50 year warranty however that leaves me wandering if
it will stand the test of time. Can you help me and what is your
suggestions for a house to new house to look old. We also want to
incorporate brick with the stone as well. I have the HOmes of Elegance
book in which most of the homes have been created using limestone.
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!! --Heather, Feb
3, Reply |
R1:
Dear Heather. You do not mention where in
the world you are planning on building, and climate does have a
bit to do with the appropriateness of certain stones, but cultured
stone is just that, and no matter how skillfully installed will
always give an impression of "manmade". There are advantages
as to color and consistency, and if you purchase a large number
of mold shapes so the repetition is not so noticeable, cultured
stone can look attractive, but will it give you the look you want.
As to a 50 year warranty, are you aware that there are buildings
made of limestone still in daily use that are 10 times and even
older than that. Many of the great cathedrals of Europe, and the
pyramids are built of limestone, and there are many homes built
of limestone that are still lived in after centuries of use. Since
the stone itself is in many cases millions of years old, a 50 year
warranty would not have any meaning at all. To achieve an "old
look" you will need to be careful in your selection of a masonry
contractor. Have pictures available of the look you want, and have
potential contractors lay up sample panels to see if they can actually
meet your expectations. The old style stonework looks like it does
because the masons spent a lot of time on each stone dressing it
and facing it, and many masons today don't have a clue as to how
to do this, or won't because the price per square foot they are
getting precludes this much labor. In my area, many new homes are
"rocked" in just a few days by large crews of low paid
labor ( it looks like a colony of ants swarming over the walls),
and the end result is to me an eyesore. At the other end of the
scale, there are contractors here, some of whom I am proud to refer,
who are capable of outstanding work. However, they will spend months
on a single project, and the cost is considerably more than that
charged by the ant swarm. You must be willing to pay for the look
you want, or you will get what you are willing to pay for. Good
luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4694: I just bought
a house with Tennesse Crab Orchard Stone in the foyer. It is dull
and seems to be holding a lot of dirt. What should I use to clean
it and what can I use to seal it to a nice shine? Your advice is
much appreciated, Keith, Feb 3, Reply |
| R1::
Dear Keith: Seal it to nice shine? You do NOT want to do that! Other
than that, I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me.Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 4687: I have recently
discovered a mildew problem in my limestone tiled shower, do you
have any products or recommendations on how to safely clean these
tiles and prevent a mildew problem in the future? thanks, Steve,
Feb 2,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: I do believe I have the solution
to your problem. Keep in mind, however, that all too many times
the presence of mildew could be an indication of some serious problem.
Let’s hope not! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and
get in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4686: I have granite
as my counter top in the kitchen. It was brand new house the granite
is Kashmir Gold, we also sealed the granite. But it looks like we
did not do a good job, the area all round the cook top has turned
dark and our once very beautiful counter top looks rather ugly now,
I have tried various things to get rid of the oil stains but it
does not seem to make any difference. We cook a lot and hence it
will not be possible not to use oil, so could you please recommended
anything to get rid of the oil stains please. Thanks Vina, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vina: What did I always say about Kashmire
and the likes?!When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true
professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can
spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove
stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you
may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature
will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”,
and what to do about the latter! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You’ll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my
comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all
too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don’t become another statistic! What’s more, I can even
show you a way to get all of your money back! What more can you
ask?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4685: I'm not sure,
because I haven't read too much on there, but it sounds like you
have a stone care product line. If that's the case, my husband's
company would benefit from finding out about it. He has been selling
and installing granite for about 6 months now and is in the process
of opening a fabrication shop. His intention is to do the best quality
job possible, but you're right about there not being much information
out there. His customers ask him for advice on choosing stone and
care products, and truthfully, he's not experienced enough to give
them the best advice. He
and I would rather that he doesn't learn from customers having problems,
so I am taking the time to find him a library of learning materials.
And I have been gathering catalogs of different companies' products.
Please let me know what you have available, and at what price, so
that I may add your information and products to our operation. Kathy,
Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Here I am! Just gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as
you will be told. It costs a lot of money and time to findstone.com
to maintain this site), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What
more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
|
Q 4684: Good day. I have a freind
that wishes to put filled and honed travertine on an outdoor patio
in Arizona. The area is partially covered from rain, but still
gets alot of direct sunlight. The travertine tiles are filled
with a golden coloured polyester resin ( infared baked at factory)
material. I have heard that in time this material may crack/split
and generally breakdown over time. One company said it may only
discolour to a faint yellow. Another company said it will breakdown
the same as a cement or grout fill material. If so how long might
this breakdown take ?
The travertine is from Jordan and is quite dense, fill material
is no bigger than a quater in some areas; most of this polyester
fill material is about the size of a dime or less to none at all.
If and when the material breaks down, should the holes be filled
with new polyester resin or filled with a good grout material
?
Would you recommend the use of unfilled and honed or an unfilled
and antiqued ( brushed )travertine and then fill it with grout
material ? I think the anique finish may get hotter in the sun
and be more slippery when wet as it is a more shiney surface.
Feb 2, Reply
|
| R1:
I’m not quite familiar with polyester resin as travertine
filler. Typically travertine is filled with a cementitious material
(a specific one, not just grout. But grout is OK, though). Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4683: I
have a marble floor which seems to fit the general defintion of
spalling. It is pitted and looks like the surface of the moon. A
contractor came in with a measuring device and said water is trapped
between the the foundation and the underside of the tiles. Is there
an ongoing chemical reaction going on there? Is there a fix? If
i pull up the old tiles and put down new won't the same thing happen
again unless the foundation cracks are sealed? Jim, CA. Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: Yes. No, Yes. You need a water-proof membrane.Now, remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or
installer (when end-users tell me that they were advised to use
water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood
reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Don’t become
another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t
find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 4682: I am a neophyte
in the world of natural stone tiling, and from the little bit that
I've read of your responses, it sounds as if you might be the "straight"
voice I'm looking for. I think too that I'm going to need a sealer,
and thought that perhaps you could recommend one of yours -- and
explain what makes it different from all the others out there.
Here's my situation ... I'm having my bathroom wallpapered and I've
found a honed Bateig Blue limestone tile (from Artistic Tile) that
matches the stone facade in the paper perfectly. What I'm looking
to do is use the stone tile and matching molding piece around the
jacuzzi tub and as a border around the shower stall. The areas in
which it'll be placed will not be regularly abused -- there's very
little water (we don't use the tub all that much and it doesn't
get very wet anyway) -- but it could periodically get stepped on
(not usually with shoes), splashed with water, dripped with baby
oil, cosmetics or toothpaste and will regularly be subjected to
water condensation (around the shower).
Everyone I've talked to said that it would be okay as long as it
was sealed with an impregnable sealer and any spots dried up as
soon as possible. The recommendations for the frequency of the sealer
application varied anywhere from 2 times per year to every 2-3 years,
depending upon how quickly it looked like it was "wearing off".
The other question I have is whether I'm locked to using the same
sealer brand and type once it's applied?
What would be you're recommendation in this situation? Will this
work or am I asking for a maintenance nightmare? What sealers do
you have available?
Also, is there anything special that needs to be considered during
the installation? Does the tile need to be sealed before its installed?
If the edges of the tile are rounded off, is there anything special
that needs to be done on the edge (since it won't have the honed
finish anymore)? Kristin, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kristin: My impregnator sealer is an excellent product, but
there are plenty of good products out there. What makes it different
from the rest of the bunch is … well … me! :-) I guess
I’m the only one who tell people if and when they need it,
and NOT to use it if they don’t!! It should make a difference,
don’t you think?If you use rapid setting material for the
installation (Stone setting adhesive by the Custom building company
at the HD, is one of them), everything should be all right. No,
you do NOT want to apply the impregnator before installation! Always
wait at least two weeks AFTER the installation to apply the sealer!
No nothing special needs to be be done on the semi-bullnosed edges
of the tiles.Now, remember, it’s never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users
tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular
glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the
speed of light!). Don’t become another statistic! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It’s
a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else,
I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get
your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4681: We are thinking
of putting granite tile counter tops in our kitchen and were thinking
of using Baltic Brown. I would like to know if this granite is stain
resistant and if it needs to be sealed. Also when we install the
tiles what type of mortar should be used and can we just butt the
tiles together? Thank you, Shelly, Feb 2, Reply |
R1:
Dear Shelly: Terrific stone and very much stain resistant! No sealing
necessary. Use white thin set. No, do NOT butt-joint! Use flat toothpicks
as spacers and make sure that the grout (sandless, of course) goes
deep in. Matching color caulking is even better (it wont stain).
Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all
too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site postings, you’re not likely to get good information about
it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that they
were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner,
my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!).
Don’t become another statistic! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are
worth every single penny and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind
document that you won’t find anywhere else, I promise! What’s
more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert PAnelist
|
| Q 4680: I've got granite
counters in my master bathroom and was wondering if there's a product
that can enhance the shine. I try to wipe down the counter every
day to prevent staining but I'd also like to know if there is something
to enhance or protect the surface. Thanks, Sarah, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sarah: There sure is! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as
you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What
more do you want from me? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
IT IS ALWAYS BETTER TO SEAL YOUR GRANITE WITH
AN IMPREGNATOR,AND TO DO THE WEEKLY CLEANING WITH AN APPROPRIATE
PRODUCT(NOT WINDEX OR ACID BACED PRODUCTS) I WORK FOR A GRANITE
SUPPLY COMPANY AND WE CARRY A PRODUCT CALLED STONETECH IMPREGNATOR
PRO,WHICH IS AN EXCELLANT FOOD SAFE SEALER,SOLVENT BASED(BETTER
THAN WATER BASED)TO SEAL YOUR GRANITE , AND FOR YOUR DAILY CLEANING
STONETECH REVITALIZER IS A GREAT PRODUCT THAT WILL ENSURE YOUR GRANITE
STAYS WELL PROTECTED. Craig |
| Q 4679: I wonder if
you could provide me with some additional advice. I have chosen
Labrador Green "granite" for kitchen countertops. I realise
from your advice that this is not a true granite, but I haven't
seen this particular variety mentioned anywhere in you advice columns.
Can you tell me if this would be a suitable material for a kitchen
worktop? Would it stain or scratch easily? I have not yet selected
my slabs, but I have done the lemon juice test (oil as well) using
a small sample of Lab. Green from the place where the slabs will
be purchased. I believe the test was successful, I saw no discoloration
after as long as 30 minutes. Does this "granite" need
to be sealed? My fabricators has told me he uses a sealer/impregnator
that needs only to be done every 5 years or so What questions do
I need to be asking my fabricator regarding sealing and care for
this type of surface? I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks
and regards, Sandy, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandy: I do know that stone (a charnokite
from Brazil) quite well. It’s an excellent choice. However,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?!I did write a very interesting article
on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small
price tag, but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while
you’re out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll
be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get
all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don’t
become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4678: I
just had 1200 sq ft of Mexican travertine installed. The travertine
was purchased from Emser tile. The tile has several smooch and swirl
marks. Quite frankly it looks dirty. Is there anything that we can
do to bring the luster of the tile out? The installed used a combination
sealer/stone enhancer too. We are quite dissatisfied with the look
of the tile....some tiles look ok...others look smooched. Once the
sealer/enhancer was applied the tile setter buffed the tile but
again it looks dirty and dull. Thanks, Jerry, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: What you’re reporting is
typical of many a hone-finished travertine. Time and again I said
that, in my opinion, honed factory-finish is not fit for sale! The
only remedy is to hire a professional stone refinisher. Now, you’d
better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all
the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior
decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive article on how
to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give
you all the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. It
does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your stone, you
don’t want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! What’s more,
I will even show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4677:
I have a marble table that has broken
in two pieces. I need you to tell me please what can I do to fix
them together. I see you know very much about marble! Thank you
very much, sincerely, Laura Romero, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
I do believe I have the solution to your problem.
Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I’ll
be glad to help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4676: I'm
looking for a color named "Paladio"; does it exist or
somebody change the name? Michel, Feb 2, Reply |
R1:
Dear Michel: I do believe I’ve heard of it, but don’t
know much about it. It really doesn’t matter, though: I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
I did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you
rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved
(as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4675: I have recently
installed a tumbled marble shower and bath floor and am interested
in purchasing your maintenace advice. I am also in the selection
process of a kitchen remodel and would like advice on counter tops
and floor.I did fall in love w/ a Labrador Antique slab, in reading
I see that may be a good choice. Thanks, Patty, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Patty: No problema! Just gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee involved (as
you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What
more do you want from me? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4674: We are building
a new home and are going to have Granite Countertops installed in
our kitchen. After our design center meeting with our home builder
we decided to hire our own contractor to purchase and install the
granite. (the home builder was extremely overpriced). My question
is regarding the granite that I would like to chose. It is called
Tropical Brown from Saudia Arabia. Is this a true granite? Also
does it need to be sealed? And basically is it a good choice for
a kitchen? I was going to put Absolute Black on the Island, but
after reading through your site have decided it is not such a good
idea. Please let me know what you think about this granite and also
if you can recommend anyone in the Naples/Ft.Myers area. Thank You
for such an informative site! B.Parker, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1: Dear
B. Parker: What did you read in this site that made you conclude
that black absolute granite is not a good idea? … It’s
an excellent idea!Tropical Brown – a true geological granite
– is a very good idea, too. About the sealing issue, I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.I
did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for a
Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you
rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved
(as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4673: I have travertine
tile and noticed that the people installing the stone tile used
vinegar and water to clean. The travertine is now dull and smudged....did
the vinegar and water cause this? If so, how can I correct? Thanks
in advance, Jerry, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: Abso-darn-lutely!! You can’t
use acid to clean travertine (and any other calcite stone, for that
matter!). Thos “Michelangelo” should be installing travertine
in jail! Now you need the expensive services of a stone restoration
contractor!Now, you’d better watch out! Stone refinishing
is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from
a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of
quacks on the loose out there! (You already met one!!)How could
you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior
decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive article on how
to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give
you all the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. It
does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your stone, you
don’t want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! What’s more,
I will even show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4672: I am looking
for general cleaning guidelines for a new granite kitchen counter
top and a limestone floor throughout most of our new house. No one
seems to have a conisstent answer. Water-- water and some white
vinegar-- water and clorox???? help please before we ruin this costly
addition. Thank you M and H, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear M & H: You’re right, nobody seems to have an answer
that makes any sense (vinegar, huh! … Please!!). I do, however!
! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It’s
a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else,
I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get
your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4671: I
have a white table and I accidentally spilled some Cutex Acetone
Nail Polish remover on it. It took a piece of the paint off about
the size of a dime and there are also oily spots on it. I like your
site but too much to read right now. Can you please tell me how
to repair my table top. I just bought it at World Market and it
is so pretty but not it looks awful Feb 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Why on earth did you come to a natural stone place with your question?!
The acetone took a piece of paint of your furniture top? …
How about asking a furniture restoration contractor?! Makes more
sense to me!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4670: We recently
installed slab Breccia Vendome Marble in our powder room. We covered
the walls and the floor with bookmatched slabs. We also installed
a mirrored ceiling in several large pieces. Unfortunately a day
after the last large piece of mirror was installed, a private elevator
three floors above our condo fells two stories which caused severe
vibrations and caused the last piece of mirror that was installed
to fall as the glue that was used didn't have enough time to "cure".
This incident caused several gouges and scratches to several of
the slabs of marble. My question is, what is the best method to
fix the gouges and scratches with the least amount of damage to
the rest of the slabs. Replacing the damaged slabs is not an option
as they are bookmatched and too large (4' x 8') to remove. Thank
you for any advice that you can give us. Jules, Miami, Florida,
Feb 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jules: You do need a BONA FIDE (I do mean that, considering
the “richness” of your installation!!) stone restoration
professional! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all the
activities related to stone, from a professional point of view.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior
decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive article on how
to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give
you all the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. It
does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your stone, you
don’t want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! What’s more,
I will even show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
If you can’t find anybody who gives you the “right vibes”,
in a few months I’m personally due in Southern FL for a large
job. If you could wait … Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 4669: Dear Sir,
Plaese HELP!!!! The plumber scratched mt hoaned travertine floor,
fortunatly it isn't deep. How can I repair it? Thank you, S.Richard,
Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear S. Richard: Did you ask you stone dealer and or your installation
contractor? They made good money out of you, they should be glad
to help you out! If they won’t, I do have the solution to
your problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch
with me. There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but I’ll be glad to help. What’s more I will even tell
you how to get all of your money back! What more do you want from
me? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4668: I received
quotes from 2 different fabricators for my new granite kitchen countertops.
The first guy indicated that 2cm looks better especially with an
undermount sink and single bevel edge. He said he has women cry
when they see the 3 cm. The second guy strongly recommends 3cm.
What do you think? Thanks. Syms, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Syms: Personally I prefer the 2 cm. Laminated better. But each
and every one of my reasons is countered by an equal number of good
reasons from the fans of the 3 cm. Solid. Bottom line, there’s
nothing technically wrong with either one of them. It’s your
call. I can only add that fabricators who do the 2 cm. laminated
are usually (which doesn’t mean all the time) more “involved”
than the 3 cm. guys. Doing 3 cm. solid is definitely “easier”,
if you know what I mean!Now, remember, it’s never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s
a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell
by reading many of this site postings, you’re not likely to
get good information about it from your dealer or installer (when
end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap,
or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point
at the speed of light!). Don’t become another statistic! You
can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It’s
a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else,
I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get
your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4667: I
stumbled upon your web-site and was amazed at the information. I
looked around the site, but did not see any information on a beautiful
"granite" i saw recently called Verde Fuoco from Australia.
Do you know about the stone, and suitability for a kitchen counter.
Any ballpark ideas on costs per sq. ft. local fabricators were estimating
about $115 per sq. ft installed. I am also interested in two other
granites, Silver Sea Green and Verde Marinache. Which do feel has
best properties for a kitchen counter. Thanks, Kevin Ruswick, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kevin: I never heard of this “Verde Fuoco”, but
it really doesn’t matter. Even if I were familiar with it,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
I did write a very interesting article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you
rather have me beside you while you’re out there?! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved
(as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can
also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4666: I have fallen
in love with Lagos Blue Limestone (germany) and wanted to use it
in a master & other bath shower only installation--however I
have learned through this site that I would be crazy to do so--my
question is what is a comparable travertine or marble? I like the
simple character of the lagos blue, the grey color, etc and have
been trying in vain to find something. While shopping for stone
not one salesperson told me that I would have problems with the
limestone they actually encouraged the use and didn't try to persuade
me to look at travertine, marble or granite--thank goodness there
is a site like this. kerry, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kerry; You betcha! You’re welcome!
Caio and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4665: I am a kitchen
designer and have used soapstone on several jobs, mine included,
I followed the old process of oil over a period of time and have
found the surface very useable. The last job I installed the fabricator
suggested we put a sealer /enhancer on the material it looks good
now, but how do we deal with the scratches and how often do we reseal.
Karen, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
: Dear Karen: Nobody – I mean nobody
– uses an impregnator sealer color enhancer on soapstone!
Each and every producer of the stuff recommends to only use mineral
oil as a routine treatment. Now that you created a certain situation
on the advice of somebody who obviously talks just because he just
so happen to have a piece of tong in his mouth, have that guru solve
your problem! He must know something that nobody else knows! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4664: Can you please
elaborate on why this is not a good idea? The moving company is
suggesting (strongly, I might add) that we have someone attempt
to repair the piece. I don't want to let anyone touch it without
researching the possiblity of having it turn out good. Thanks, Hanna,
Feb 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Hanna: Oh, I believe it’s a terrific idea! If you could
tell us what it is, it would be even better!! :-) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4663: I
have a marble tile shower. I have tried using "marble cleaners"
that you get at Home Depot to clean the shower. I have mold along
the grout that will not come off, even when scrubbed with a tooth
brush. I was told bleach (such as Clorox Clean-up) will not harm
the marble, but I am afraid to use it. I am also disgusted by the
inability to clean my shower easily like I used to in my pre-marble
days (I would just shoot it with Tilex and walk away). On the silicone
grout, the mold is embeded and will not budge, and on the sand based
grout between the tiles, I have been only able to remove it with
a high powered jet of steam that ended up burning my hands (I returned
it). I clean the floor with a Eureka steam mop no problem. HELP!!!
I want to easily clean my shower and get rid of the mold! Thanks
in advance, Jeannine Lonski, Feb
2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lonski: Just because the label of a bottle says “Marble
cleaner” it doesn’t make it a soap scum, or a mildew
stain remover, does it! You need specific products for stone that
are designed to do what “Tilex” do, without damaging
the stone. They exist (not at the HD, though!) Everything is spelled
out in my maintenance guidelines! Just gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll
be glad you did! What’s more, I will even tell you how to
get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4662: Is
it possible to butt-joint 12x12 marble tiles, in an area where they
will not be exposed to water? We would like to install the floor
ourselves without the grout lines, but if the floor won't, last
we are planning on using a 1/16 gap. We are installing over concrete.
What is your advice? Also what kind of sealer do you recommend?
Thank you! Sharon, Feb 2, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon: No, not on a floor. 1/16”
is what you need (get the tighter spacer you can get). On concrete,
make sure to use a water-proof membrane, if the cement slab is sitting
on the ground!! And don’t forget to get my maintenance guidelines!
Just gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little
fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you
did! What’s more, I will even tell you how to get your money
back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4661: What
are the guidelines when using 3/4 in travertine as table tops in
northern states such as New York and Connecticut? More specifically,
how much cold can it take without damage? Thank you, Judy , Feb
1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judy: What are you talking about, an outdoor table top? I hope
it’s not polished! As far as the cold temperature is concerned,
all the cold you want and then some! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 4660: I am seeking
your expert advise on whether to install travertine or tile in my
kitchen, family room, entrance and other hallways - almost 2000
sq ft. (Installing it myself.) My wife and I have two young children
and no pets. We like the look of 18 x 18 travertine tiles of Torreon
(Mexico) but are worried about staining/scatching,and normal everyday
life traffic wear and tear. We have read that tile is more maintenance
free, so it may be just finding a tile we like. --- It will go directly
on a concrete slab. We also have a swimming pool off the kitchen/family
room. Our home is more contemporary.
Do you think Travertine would be
ok for this application, and if so should it be honed or polished?
Your thoughts on appropriate grout line thickness for travertine
or tile?
Finally, do you have instruction materials/video I may purchase
on installing, care and sealing?
Thanks - We're really looking forward to your insight. By the
way, excellent advise on the web site. George, Feb 1, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear George: I never claimed to be an interior
decorator. I’m just a plain mechanic and stone maintenance
guy. If you want to do it yourself, go with tile. Travertine is
too difficult to install. No, I don’t have any video or book,
but the Home Depot sells some publication on the subject. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4659: I
have a round table that is broken in half. I would like to know
if there is any way to repair this? The two pieces fit together
nicely, no peices chipped out. Doug,
Feb 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Doug: Yes, there is a way. Just gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I’ll
be glad to help you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelis |
| Q 4658: We
had a granite peninsula installed in August. It was sealed (properly?).
The granite has been decomposing from the start. I understand natural
stone pitting, but has progressed to where you can not use as a
writing station. The top is decomposing. Have you heard of this
before and is there anything that can be applied to stop decomposition?
Dennis, Feb 1,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dennis: Just a very low grade of whatever stone you
have (which you don’t say). It has nothing to do with sealing.
No, it can’t be stopped. And no, you do not have to accept
it. You have a case. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4656: I
am interested in using blue pearl granite for my kitchen and bathroom
vanity as a countertop stone.Is this a wise choice as to durability
and staining problems.Also how often should the granite be sealed?
A quick answer would be appreciated since we are planning to purchase
the granite shortly Thanks for any guidance you can give me. Charlie,
Feb 1,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlie: The stone is one of the best choices! It
does not need to be sealed, either. The question is, how good will
be the fabricator?I did write a very interesting article on “How
to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you
all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but
wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while you’re
out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s
a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll be
glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don’t
become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 4655: Which
type of thin set or glue adhesive that quick dry for marble 12x12
that for celing so it won't fall on my head. I want fast grab and
dry for bathrooms. chaim, Feb
1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chaim: At the Home Depot they have A product dubbed
“Stone setting adhesive” (or something similar) by the
Custom Builders company. That’ should do the trick for you!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 4653:
I have granite counters in the kitchen
and limestone floors in my home. The installer did not tell me how
to care for these and he is nowhere to be found at this time. What
must I buy ? Do they need to be resealed How do I clean them Can
I ruin them in any way Ann, Feb
1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ann: Here I come to the rescue! Just gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little fee involved
(as you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help you. What’s
more, I will even tell you how to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
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