| Q
6804: I've
heard no discussion of any negative environmental impact or long-term-supply
issues with the extensive use of granite for kitchen countertops.
I'll use it for our new townhouse if I can be confident that we're
not being irresponsible using all of this material from the earth
for countertops when there are good alternatives. Perhaps, even such
extensive use for countertops is neglibible compared to building facades
and other large-scale uses, but I rather doubt that. I'd be interested
in your point of view. You must have some concern about the long term
impact of your industry and the supply for your great grand children.
Ken Ford, June 8, Reply |
R1:
A question I am sometimes asked and quite easy to answer . Primary
quarrying and transformation of natural stone for the dimensional
stone market has one of the lowest environmental impacts of all quarrying
activities . In relation to the extraction of stone for aggregate
and cement production the scale is very low. The CO2 cost to produce
a unit of material for a granite kitchen top is 10% of that to produce
a unit of a cement based product . Carbon dioxide CO2 Long term impact
of dimensional stone usage in both the west and east is negligible
.In the European and North American markets there are strict environmental
constraints relating to this OK well easiest to explain on the production
of cement based products . Consider how much CO2 is released when
quarrying a block of granite . Energy used mean CO2 released in fossil
fuel usage. So energy used in the quarrying aspect , processing and
finishing in the factory.
On cement production you have a similar energy cost ( thus similar
CO2 impact) on quarrying Then you have the processing of the limebased
product this releases CO2 then you have the processing of the product
more C02 than the dimensional stone .
The final sting in the tail is disposal. Once a cement based product
has ended it life it has CO2 implications on the environment. Hope
this helps. Tony |
| R2:
I
would be surprised if the extraction of granite pollutes the atmoshpere
as more modern, manufactured items may, and the work this provides,
across continents, is very important, especially in the less developed
countries. Real life includes compromise. |
R3:
Competitive
construction materials e.g. cement, ceramic, metal, plastic, glass,
are made using massive quantities of electricity and oil which, in
turn, use up irreplenishable resources as well as create irreversible
pollution in their making.
Granite lasts for centuries - so the overall requirement in the long
term of different materials for construction gets greatly reduced.
Usage of wood results in loss of life-giving trees and in devastation
of forest lands.
There is no waste in granite excavation. Blocks are used to make slabs
and tiles. Smaller pieces are used to make foundations, pillars and
walls in village houses which are thus low cost, more attractive and
permanent. Smallest pieces are made into road metal by crushers. After
excavation, the quarries are refilled and converted into agricultural
lands. |
| R4:
Ken, With all due respect, there must be a myriad of other things
to worry about. The only health negative I am aware of is the silica
in granite when it's released by drilling, dry grinding & polishing,
which can cause silicosis. Most of the granite deposits (quarries)
I've been in have billions of cubic feet of stone and can quarry for
millennia. (providing real jobs, as opposed to sittting behind a computer)
It is a magnificent resource; use it with gratitude. |
| R5:
Funny
could not thing that that any one could be serious in this matter
would they rather we use resin based products bla bla bla they must
be very bored Gary |
| R6:
You
have raised a very pertinent point, which is valid for all stone including
granite, marble and limestone. We as a stone company are very aware
of the mountains gradually being eroded. For this reason we have many
alternative products which are sustainable and that use silica sand
and aggregates which is a by-product of quarrying industry ( Capitalstone,
Pietraviva, Cristallo). We also supply stone in reduced thickness
(Stellar Stone) with fibre glass backing and aluminium honeycomb reinforcement.
This reduces consumption by half and because of reduced weight saves
on transport/fuel costs. Joanna |
| R7:
Use
as much granite as you like in your new house, without hurting your
conscience. There is a super-abundance of this igneous rock on the
planet. For example, all the quartz sand on all the sea shores is
derived originally from the erosion or breakdown of granitic rocks.
There are whole mountains all over the world made almost entirely
of granite. I speak as a geology graduate. Andrew Hoare. |
R8:
I do agree with you on some points ,but need to ask you some questions
first? you said that there are alternatives,well ! what are these
alternatives, lets see together,wood,i dont think that usung wood
and cutting trees is not harmful at all,another alternatiive could
be resin and acrylics,pleae let me
ask you a quastion,do you have any idea how much resin and acrylic
factories har the environment?
any way it all about a choice we should do,we are using earth resources
in every domain,wehen we use all the metals,per example steel, i dont
thing there is any tree in the world that produces steel is there?
there are huge mines and huge idustries to produce this metal,if we
choose not to use it well no problem at all,but no car no bridges
no these things any more,and if you want my personal opinion,we can
ride horses as 200 years ago but the system we live in does not accept
it anymore... lets go for any construction material,bricks of clay
or bricks of cement are all explored from mother earth,paintings need
calcite in huge quatities,and still it is from earth,any ceramic we
have is from earth,so either we do not make any constructions anymore,we
can go to the tents again,me myself i have noproblem with this at
all,but lets ask all the countries that are proud of their high rise
buildings do they accept? human being is ruinig earth,yes he is,well
we should pay the concequaces |
| R9:
Dear Ken, This is in reply to your concerns about the use of natural
stone as a resource - which is finite I may add.Alternatives do exist
and the man made ones (resin composites) are not biodegradable and
more to the point - for most third world countries - its a resource
that creates employment and generate revenue. That should be of greater
concern is the price being paid to the primary producer - as the retail
margin bears no relation to cost.Yes - I know its all about supply
and demand - but fair trade should play a part in all our business
dealings. Trust me there is ample stone to supply your descendents
to the end of time - we live on a rock. So don't lose any sleep -
soothe your conscious and pay top dollar. Dipak |
| R10:
In regards to granite countertops and the depletion of granite from
the environment. When you consider the extensive contaminates released
from the processing of man made products and their impact on our environment
such as laminates and Corian like products the environmental impact
of mining granite is very minimal.
Granite
can also be remanufactured and reused. It is rarely if ever thrown
away due to its durable characteristics. All the byproducts that
come from the manufacturing of granite is also utilized to make
aggregate products or engineered granite like countertops such as
Silestone, and Caesarstone. And
since the earth is mostly composed of granite there is little likelyhood
that we will run out in our lifetime and with the environmental
regulations in regards to mining we can be assured the uses of granite
are being monitored. Fred
|
| R11:
When you consider that most ignitious stones are formed way below
the surface, and they cool off and solidify at depths of 10 to 15
km below, and for periods of time from 3 billion to a few hundred
million years work their way to the surface through erosion of maybe
less than a mm per year, the supply is unending as this process is
continuous. The supply won't stop till the sun cools. We still have
a few billion years. Sven Rone |
R12:
There
is not one countertop material harvested from this earth or created
in a lab that does not impact the environment in some way.
After all, you need gasoline to freight the materials around.
Oil to pull them out of the earth.
OIl byproducts to manufacture artificial surfaces.
Then again, food requires gas and oil to get from hither to yonder.
But granite is fine. It depends on how clean the quarry and fabricator
run their business, basically. Steve |
| R13:
I have been selling granite for the counter tops including the solid
sink out of granite. They start with a bock of 12" X 26"
X 36" and cut out every thing for the sink leaving 2 cavities
for the 2 bowl sink and then I have a built in drain board all out
of the solid granite. This is a very good looking top. We do the same
with the bathroom lavatory top yes it cost more then the plastic but
it is more natural on looks and prestige of having something the other
people do not have. I can compete with Corian tops as to price with
a full 1 1/2" top as to a build up in the Corian there is even
a less costly system of a 3/4" top with a glued on front edge
making a 1 1/2" for the first 1 3/4" on the front. Bill
Lowry |
| R14:
If
you are really concerned about "long term impact" you should
take comfort in the knowledge that your countertops---and everything
else we humans see as important will be recycled as new crust some
millions of years from now. From a slightly more timely view you should
realize that the sources of granite, batholiths and plutons, are measured
in cubic kilometers, sometimes thousand of Km^3. Our puny human endeavors
matter little. Enjoy your granite counter tops as we have. They are
a piece of history, a renewable history! Bob Ritchie |
R15:
It
used to be that granite countertops did have a negative impact on
the environment. This was due the means of harvesting the granite
and cutting the granite. The tools used put a lot of waste in the
air. The technology has come along way. Now granite is “wet cut”
with the use of chemical agents that assist in the cutting and polishing.
These chemical agents to my knowledge largely have no impact. The
latest technology of using high speed streams of water has almost
no impact on the environment.
In terms of using up granite, the way we are using up oil, I seriously
doubt that if every home on earth had granite countertops that we
would be in danger of impacting the earth in any real manner. The
actual greatest environmental impact from granite is in the use of
sealers. The sealers used on granite are polymers that break down
in the sun and release into the air. The sealers are necessary to
protect the glossy look. I do not think these have any real measurable
impact, but I am not certain. Hope this helps. Jonathan Folland |
| R16:
Without
a doubt, this is the single most ludicrous statement I have ever read.
Has the writer ever considered what the alternative countertops are
made of. Would you like to discuss environmental issues regarding
them? One of the reasons I went to stone and granite was SPECIFICALLY
because it had the LEAST environmental impact of the materials available,
in spite of the energy requirements to fabricate and shape it. AND
it has NO BUILT-IN OBSELENCE. Put that in your environmental hat.
David |
| R17:
Give
me a break already, you must have something better to do with your
time I have a question for you, What can mankind do that does not
effect the earth? Steve Mead |
| R18:
I'm
not in the business, but do have a mining industry background and
I'm well aware of the issues surrounding mining in general and granite
in particular. Granite is plentiful (comprising a huge percentage
of the earth's crust) and is both a wonderful building material and
an environmentally friendly one. The typical granite quarry produces
little in the way of pollution and does not use any toxic chemicals
or produce any kind of toxic run off. They generally provide a good
living wage for their workers and much needed economic activity in
locations around the world. The down-side of granite quarrying is
the scars on the landscape, which often go un-reclaimed when operations
cease at any given site. In coutries like Canada and the U.S. reclamation
bonds are generally required to ensure that this doesn't happen -
other places are generallly more interested in jobs than the environment.
When compared to wood or synthethics, I'll take granite every time,
as the most durable, attractive and environmentally responsible choice.
All the best; George |
| R19:
My
oppinion is that using granit saves trees and money, because the granite
counter top last 30-plus years compare to 5 to 7 years of other materials.
Daniel |
| R20:
Take
a look at the pyramids if you want to see the long term affects when
using granite and other large volume quarried stone ... The environmental
impact is @ the site of excavation and the polishing room .... these
tasks create air and fluid affects which have environmental impact
.... negligible at that though ... Stone is pretty basic and the mass
of the earth is large enough to deal with our pittance of useage robert |
| R21:
Do
you feel irresponsible to mother earth when you fuel up your car with
fossil fuels, or have you considered how your great grandchildren
will propel their cars when the world's limited supply of fuel is
depleted? The entire earth's crust is comprised of stone, what other
options do you have for building materials, plastic? wood?resin based
composites? Jon Mitnick |
R22:
Life
is about choice, and choices are usually based on best-compromise
in descending order. So, if you do want a counter-top, what are your
choices : Korian ? Vinyl ? Stainless Steel ? Wood ? Marble ? Of course,
there is another choice, and that choice is not to make any compromise
at all, but then, that would mean squatting on the floor while cooking,
which is not really acceptable to most people.
The first 3 products are horrible (or at least, "dry, flat, no
fizz") from the aesthetic point of view (personal comment). And
some of them are even more expensive than stone.
But if you review technically, from the manufacturing point of view,
the manufacture of the first 3 products consumes much more resources
that impact the environment in a negative way - power-intensive processes,
chemicals which in turn are power-intensive and use more chemicals
in turn, processes that produce poisonous effluents (or effluents
whose treatment has spawned a whole new industry that produces products
that treat these effluents, which in turn, means another industry
producing the inputs that go into producing the products that are
used to treat these effluents), etc.
When you use a stone counter-top, you have used :
a) a natural resource that is available in abundance all over the
world
b)a material whose production consumes only electricity, steel blades
and steel shot/grit for sawing, steel for blade-cores and diamond/
superabrasive media for cutting it to size, grinding abrasives and
some wood for packing, or cardboard if you are using tiles (of course,
we can now review how steel shot is made, how abrasives are made,
and the analysis then becomes endless, because then we will have to
review how those products that are used in making steel shot, abrasives,
etc are made).
c)the production process produces no effluents whatsoever other than
stone powder in slurry form. In the case of granite, this is usually
a good material for a land-fill ; in the case of marble, the stone
powder is a pretty good cheap fertilizer because of the high CaCO3
content. Of course, there are other inputs used in manufacture and
distribution as well, such as diesel used in transportation, then
the products used to make the trucks and ships and railway trains
that do the transportation, rubber in the tyres, the brakes, and so
on but which would be common to the manufacture and distribution of
any product, so those are not being added to the analysis here.
The use of natural materials - such as stone, wood, etc - in my opinion
- is a far superior choice (from the technical point of view, in terms
of minimal impact of the resources consumed on the environment) because
they involve minimum "transformation" ; the moment you talk
about a "man-made" product, you can well imagine the technology
that has gone into the ability to "transform" product "x"
into product "y". The keyword here is "minimal transformation"
which is why products made of natural materials minimally impact the
environment relative to alternatives. And if this be true, then stone
is an even better choice than wood, because wood uses a lot of chemicals
in finishing, as well as preservation of that finish, whereas to finish
stone, no chemicals are used (its only ground = "polished"),
and the finish is usually life-long.
There is a moral (or an ego) issue here as well : prior to current
perception (where people are becoming conscious about preserving the
environment, and turning their backs on product which have abused
the abundance in Mother Nature), fortunes have been made by the people
who have developed (usually patented) processes that "transform"
products from "x" to "y", and whose manufacture
degrades the resources available in Mother Nature, as well as negatively
impact the environment. Do you want to be a supporting-party to their
continuing ability to buy more diamonds for their wives ? And don't
forget : their profits enthuse them (and equip them) to search for
more "transformation" processes for more and more new "patentable"
products.
And there is a practical issue as well : stone is one of the most
wearable materials. So, if you buy a stone counter-top now, you probably
won't be replacing it after 5-10 years (if you have used it well).
In light of the above opinion, would you use granite - or marble -
for a counter-top now ?
Incidentally, the use of counter-tops - as a percentage of total stone
used (in square meters) - is negligible. The use-space of stone is
mostly hogged by exterior facades flooring (almost equally), and interior
cladding.
I look forward to your reply, and I thank you very much for your attention.
Best regards. Deepak |
| R23:
I think granite is a very viable resourse as it will have a much greater
life span than plastics etc.granite can even concievably be reused
even after a fire.also,how many different products go into the fabrication
of modern products,and how much land was disturbed to retrieve those
resources.Ibelieve nature provides everything we need.technology can
be far worse.sincerley,jeff-Butterfield Stone |
Many
thanks to so many of you who took the time to reply to my inquiry
about the envronmental impact of cutting my countertops out of the
great rock. I appreciate the thoughthful replies, the good information.
I have very helpful answers
To the few of you who thought it was a ludicrous question, I can only
say that I'm betting I'm not the only potential consumer out here
who is not well educated on granite extraction and processing methodology
and how the energy use and enfironmental impact compares with manufacturing
of alternative materials -- or the only one who cares. Hat's off to
Vinay and such a useful web site. Ken Ford |
| Q
6844: We
recently moved to a house with speckled black granite kitchen countertops.
I've noticed there are a few faint rings in the granite, most likely
from wet dishes allowed to sit too long. Although they're faint, I'd
like to get rid of them if I can. Can you give me any help or advice?
Thanks so much for your time! Marcia, June
30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marcia: Get your fabricator back into the picture. They are the
sole responsible for those “stains.” If not, I know exactly
what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6843: My
wife and I are building a home and are thinking of having the builder
install "granite" counter tops. You're web site is extremely
informative but I was hoping you could help me determine if this would
be a good choice for us. We like the look but I want it to be useful
and practical and not a maintenance nightmare. What information do
I need to gather from the builder to help our decision? I will appreciate
your input, June 30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tom: To be quite candid (and blunt!) with
you, what I would ask the builder to do is to get out of the picture
and let you do the shopping of your granite countertop on your own!!
There a few precious exceptions, but in the vast majority of the instances,
when there’s a builder in between, you won’t be getting
what you pay for, but what the builder pays for!! Get the drift?!
:-) Having said that, I seldom make final statements about any one
particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and
I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6842: I
recently purchased a granite slab for our kitchen counter top. It's
called the Black Galaxy. Since every granite has different composite,
could you tell me the exact elements in it, especially the gold metal
that shines so beautifully.
I was
also introduced to another granite called the Blue Eyes. The sales
person told me that the blue reflection was the result of the gas
trapped inside the stone. Is that an accurate description? if so,
what kind of gas is it and won't the gas leak out over time? Thanks
so much for your help and I'm looking forward to your reply. Cliff,
June
30, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Cliff: I believe it’s real gold, but
I’m not for sure. About the “trapped gas” theory, that’s
a good one all right!! One “learns” something every day!
Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too
often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6841: My
name is Raymond Ferrario. I am an attorney searching for some expert
opinions regarding an overflow granite pool getting small chips in
it. If pictures are sent, and more materials are sent, would an expert
be able to render an opinion regarding a proximate cause of these
chips? Thanks a lot, Raymond Ferrario, June 30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Raymond: Yes. It would be possible, but not without knowing what
kind of “granite” you have, how it is finished, and actually
inspecting the job site. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6840: I
am interested in getting a granite countertop for my kitchen. My understanding
from reading your site is that granites vary in hardness, but the
harder they are the more brittle they may become. Could you provide
a list of granites that are hard (don't need to be sealed) and are
not brittle? Specifically, we'd like a stone that's dark (not black)
that's not very speckled and we'd love a stone from Ukraine (Arctic
Blue). June
30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lydia: Arctic Blue is two-thumbs up in
my book, if the slab is a good grade and the fabricator know what
they’re doing. In fact, what’s a good stone in the hands
of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive
article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6839: We
have honed, smooth travertine in our master bedroom, master bath,
hallways, kitchen and dining area. The travertine was sealed when
installed a year ago. We have never used any products other than a
small amount of water on a mop to clean the floors. We have some water
stains and a urine stain. Please tell me the proper maintenance for
these areas. Also, do we need to have the floors stripped and resealed
at some point? If so, when? Vicki, June
30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vicki: What do you mean by stripped? A sealer for stone, if properly
applied, is a below-surface product. How can you possibly strip a
below-surface product?! Having said that, the water stains that you
have are not water stains, but are acid etches; and no sealer under
the sun can prevent those surface damages. Abojt the usinr stain,
if it is yellowish, it can be removed. When it comes to stain removal,
either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits”
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you,
or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means
that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece
of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”,
and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6838: My
tile installer did a beautiful job of installing travertine in my
bathroom, but goofed badly when he applied a dark grout color to the
unsealed honey-colored stone. I don't mind the dark grout in the pockmarks,
but the redwood colored haze is intolerable. What can I do to remove
the stain without damaging the travertine or my new acrylic tub? June
30, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Christine: What can you do? Absolutely
nothing :-( The die in the grout has been absorbed by the sides of
the tiles. It’s terminal.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6837: I
had Uba Tuba countertops installed in April. Just the other night,
while cleaning around the cooktop, I noticed a crack. At first I was
so upset with myself to have even done such a thing already. However,
upon further investigation, I noticed the crack went all the way through
the stone and was filled in with the black apoxy they used for the
seams. These guys must have done this during installation and tried
to cover it up!!! Since then, I've noticed another crack on the other
side of the perimeter of the cooktop, but it is only on the surface.
I've had the salesperson who I dealt with come and look at it, but
I've heard nothing from her. What are my options? I'm thinking I need
to have the entire job done again b/c I don't know if they'll be able
to match the cracked slab with the other two. Your thoughts? Thanks,
Jennifer, June
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: For starters, you have a case
and you can demand a crack-less countertop. Whether they’re going
to be able to match the good part of your top with a new slab is everybody’s
guess., Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6836: Is
it true that coffee will leave permanent stains in granite countertops?
I've spoken to an installer and he swears it's true. Should granite
be sealed twice a year? June
24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: It could be true. It all depends on the “granite.”
Absorbent stones could get stained, but certain “granites”
will not. The application of a good-quality impregnator/sealer, like
my outlandish MB-4 will help minimize the problem on porous “granites”,
but it won’t be necessary on dense ones. As for the frequency
of the application of an impregnator/sealer, twice a year is ridiculous
and a plain marketing gimmick. Even the worst performers can go at
least two or three years before a new application is required. My
MB-4 can go 10 years or better.How to tell a “good granite”
from a bad one? I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m
not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is
bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! Maurizio |
| Q
6835: Sir,
Baltic Brown is true granite? So it will need a sealer or imprgnator?
Does it make a good countertop? Thanks, June 24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: Baltic Brown is considered as true granite, but personally
I’m not convinced about it. Regardless, it usually does make
a good countertop, But then again, usually doesn’t mean all the
time, does it?! That is why I seldom make final statements about any
one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! I did write a very comprehensive article
on Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6834: I
was trying to find out whether or not you abhor Santa Cecelia, or
if it's OK for the price. I'm in Texas, and we have plenty of pink/black
granite if I chose to go with that. Please advise - I do cook a lot,
but we hope to clean up spills quickly. June
24, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: I do not abhor Santa Cecilia! I do abhor low-grade slabs
of that stuff. But then again, the same principle applies to all commercial
granites! About the Texan pink/black granite it is probably a very
good stone, but it’s not in the mainstream; therefore I don’t
know much about it. Regardless, I seldom make final statements about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6833: how
do we pick a slab when we can hardly do a lemon-juice-test at the
showroom? Please advise - we can spend about $50-60 per s.f. on our
countertops, and your website has me afraid of what to pick. Rule
out Santa Cecilia altogether because of the softer spots of reddish
purple? We're in Texas - pick a native Texas granite and we're better
off? June
24, Reply |
R1:
Dear David: Well, if you can’t get a piece of scrap from the
showroom to run the lemon juice (and oil) test, then you have problem!
The only help I can offer is to encourage you to shop somewhere else
were you can get pieces of scraps of the stone you would like to consider.
Besides, it’s always better dealing directly with a fabricator
than with a showroom.
As for the Texan granite, it’s probably a terrific stone, but
I wouldn’t know. It is not exactly in the mainstream after all.
Besides, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6832: So,
how do we pick a slab when we can hardly do a lemon-juice-test at
the showroom? Please advise - we can spend about $50-60 per s.f. on
our countertops, and your website has me afraid of what to pick. Rule
out Santa Cecilia altogether because of the softer spots of reddish
purple? We're in Texas - pick a native Texas granite and we're better
off? June
24, Reply |
R1:
Dear David: Well, if you can’t get a piece of scrap from the
showroom to run the lemon juice (and oil) test, then you have problem!
The only help I can offer is to encourage you to shop somewhere else
were you can get pieces of scraps of the stone you would like to consider.
Besides, it’s always better dealing directly with a fabricator
than with a showroom.
As for the Texan granite, it’s probably a terrific stone, but
I wouldn’t know. It is not exactly in the mainstream after all.
Besides, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6831:
I recently
moved into a new home that has granite countertops in the kitchen.
My wife and I don't like the faucet in the kitchen so I wanted to
replace it with another faucet I already had. The problem is that
one of the pre-drilled holes isn't big enough for the water control
part of the faucet. It's about a quarter of an inch to small. Is
there any way to make this hole bigger? Please advise.Thanks, Darren,
June
21, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dareen: Yes, of course, it's not a problem. You can't do that
yourself, however. Get hold of a local friendly stone fabrication
facility and ask them to do the job for you. Now, remember, it's never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's
a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site's postings, you're not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6830: Project involves a limestone panel system on the exterior of
a building (southeast coast) An adhesive (acrylic or epoxy) was used
to attach the steel clips that hold the panel to the building. Now
everywhere the adhesive makes contact the panels are irregular staining,
(a yellowish brown hazy clud looking spots), are showing up. There
are thousands of these panels attached. What may be the cause of the
staining? Michael, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: Obviously, the adhesive used was
not an epoxy, which is typically 100% solid. It was rather an adhesive
with a certain percentage of oil or mineral solvent and it is now
bleeding to the surface of the stone. I'm glad you did not ask what
can be done to rectify the situation. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
was
the steel used for the clips stainless steel? If not, you may be seeing
the result of rusting. |
| Q
6831: We
recently installed Uba Tuba on our counter tops and we notice two
things. First, there are dark spots in the stone . The installer says
its the silicone caulking they use to adhere the stone to the decking
coming thru. His solution is to heat it with a torch? He assures us
it will go away? Second, there is a light area on the slab that he
assures us is just part of the stone . We viewed the slabs before
installation and pointed it out to him but he assured us it would
not be noticeable. Well it is noticeable. His solution is again to
heat it with a torch and it should darken up and won't be noticeable.
Are these normal remedies and will it be permanent ,or cause any damage
to the stone? (I understand its not granite, but not sure what it
is.) Thanks Jeff, June 25, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jeff: It looks like that guy is gonna solve every problem with
a torch!! WOW!! I would have never guessed that it could be so easy!
I tell you what: I’ll be sitting here with my pop-corn bucket
on my lap and watch! That’s gonna be interesting all right!!
Here’s another reason why I want to live forever: “performances”
like that don’t come around every day! :-) Keep me posted, please!
Maurizio |
| Q
6830: My
home has french limestone floors throughout. Also, my outdoor patios
are the same limestone as is my outdoor swiming pool and spa. Tiled
in limestone throughout. Sides, bottom, etc. My home is 10 years old
and we have drained the pool and spa to clean and found the limestone
is pitted therefore difficult to keep clean. My pool service uses
clorine and acid to keep the two balanced. We live in the Palm Springs
area and during the summers, use alot of chemicals to keep the pool
and spa clean of algae. Is there anything we can use to seal the limestone
so it is not so porous? Gabriella June
25, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Gabriella: Even if you apply an impregnator/sealer as good as
my outlandish MB-4 to the limestone in your swimming pool you wouldn’t
even begin to solve the first problem related to the use of the chemicals
typical of a swimming pool. The chemicals attack the stone from the
surface, not from within, and all stone sealers are below surface
products. Bottom line, wrong stone for the application. Sorry. (I’m
loosing a sale here! :-( Unless, of course, you’d consider using
my fabulous MB-1 for the routine cleaning of your floors! :-)) Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6829: I
am in the process of having granite put on a counter. The granite
is called Santa Maria and is a tan with a little darker brown and
a touch of black. On one side of the counter the granite has a big
splash of orange and another big splash of black. It is an area of
about 3 feet. Would you accept this, or have the contractor replace
it. It is a total eyesore, June
21, Reply |
R1:
Dear Arlene: Certain consumers go out of their way to choose a "granite"
which is way out of the mainstream. They end up choosing some fancy
stone nobody ever heard anything about before, and then expect an
(alleged) expert - which is typically a mechanic - to tell them if
certain natural variations on that virtually unheard of stone that
may seem excessive (from a strictly subjective point of view, mind
you) should be accepted or not I mean ... is there anything else you
want to know?? The stone industry is indeed pretty much unregulated,
but even if it were regulated, do you really think it could come up
with strict and precise standards of acceptability for each and every
single stone on the market and
counting?? :-( Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panlelist |
| Q
6828: I was leaning toward Juparana Persia/Persa or Santa Cecilia
(with Kashmir Gold as a close third) for kitchen countertops, but
after reading your website, I am now concerned about all three of
these. Will the Juparana Persia/Santa Cecilia hold up with a good
sealer? (I do a lot of cooking/baking and have little kids.) If not,
do you have any substitute suggestions for a kitchen with natural
cherry cabinents, yellow walls, and a tile floor in varied brown and
red tones? Thank you in advance for your assistance. Becky,
June 21,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Becky: If it is a good quality impregnator/sealer (such as my
outlandish MB-4), AND
if it is applied properly (even the best product is as good as the
operator who uses it!), all the three stones you mentioned could hold
up well. But just naming stones is not nearly enough! I seldom make
final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q
6827: I
hope you can help me. We just had granite counter top installed (we
have not even used the kitchen yet). There is a chip around the sink
(about 1/4
inches wide and 1/2 inches long on the lip of the sink) and multiple
long scratches near the range. They look like knife marks and the
contractor says there is nothing he could do. Can this be repaired?
If so, how do we do it? If not, what are ouroptions? We had already
paid for the counter top, but the contractor is still working on the
house.Thank you very much in advance for your insights.Phil, June
21, Reply |
R1:
Dear Phil: What you're reporting is totally unacceptable. What can
you do? Let me tell you something: maybe - and I do mean maybe - there
are 10 stone restoration
contractors in the whole contry who could successfully repair your
scratches (the chips are easy). Having said that, since the contractor
is still working in the house, do NOT pay him for whatever he is currently
doing until he tells you something different from "There's nothing
that I can do..." If he can't repair the scratches he will have
to replace the countertop, period.I have zero tolerance for "Michelangelos"
like that. ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6826: I am designing a patio using light colored granite tiles (to
be selected) on a concrete slab. I have never used granite before.
However, I do remember seeing a bad outdoor job a couple of years
ago in which all the tiles were discolored at their perimeters along
the joints. I believe the person who showed it to me called it mustaching.
Please tell me how I can avoid this from occurring on my patio.Thanks,
Steve, June 21, Reply |
R1:
Dear Steve: "Mustaching??..." Never mind! :-) Your best
bet is to apply a water-proof membrane to rhe concrete before installing
your tiles. The discoloration you mentioned is quite typical and it's
caused by the possible rising of the water table under the cement
slab.
Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and,
as you can tell by reading many of this site's postings, you're not
likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Steve-This
may be a result of the mortar migrating into the granite via capillary
action.One potential solution is to pre-wet the tiles as you lay them
and batch your mortar with a latex additive-periodically lightly dampen
tiles until mortar has done its initial set.Another is to spray your
tiles all surfaces with a breathable,penetrating sealer before setting.
Regards,Sisyphus |
| R3:
You must understand that unless Granite Tiles are taken out from the
same Block there is likely to be some amount of color variation. as
such I would recommend you to use slabs as far as posible. This will
not only eliminate multiple lines on the patio caused by numerous
tiles but also enhance the very look of the area.
There
is no question of any fraying or discoloration as granite colors
are natural and not subject to fading. Only bad workmanship can
lead to frayed edges.... But please be aware that slabs are much
costlier than tiles.. But then you will be decorating the main entrance
to your house.... D S Mehta
|
| R4:
Discoloring of granite tiles at their perimeter along the joints.
This is not a general and frequent effect, but sometimes occurs. The
most probable cause is the transport of soluble salts from the internal
layers of the floor to the surface through the joints. These salts,
contained in the water which leaves the tiling when it is being dried
(e.g. with dry and hot weather, after a raining period) may diffuse
in the tile, with possible coloring/decoloring effect. A possible
prevention of this effect is, in the design stage, to specify that
the patio has a suitable slope, in order to prevent raining water
to remain on the surface, and a suitable drainage under the tiling,
to ensure that water possibly penetrated into the tiling itself is
efficiently removed through this layer, and is nor forced to be removed
trough the tile joints (with the possible effect described above).
Note: This is the most probable hypothesis, but other causes in the
case you have seen two years ago cannot be excluded. A visual examination
would be needed. |
| Q
6825: I
have bought products from you recently and wanted to let you know
that I use them religiously. Everyone compliments me on my Blue Pearl
countertop and how it shines. I advised them to use your products.
I am collecting scrap pieces of all types of granite (36 x 24, 32
x 28, etc.) and am thinking of using them as flooring for my son's
studio. Is this a good idea? June
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Roslynn: Thank you for your nice words and your patronage! As
for the "design" of your son's studio floor, it sounds like
a good idea to me! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6824: I
love your column, I'm a new granite owner and so far nothing seems
to faze this granite. I am hesitant to set down hot pots right from
the range. I heard somewhere that granite can have some natural fissures
that may crack when something hot is placed on it. Is this true? Thanks,
Virginia, June
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Virginia: Considering how many stones are
not granite but are traded as granite, yes, it is possible that some
of them could crack. I wouldn't worry to much with Baltic Brown, however!
That "thing" is a tough cookie with no fissures toconcern
yourself with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6823: We
have a marble top coffee table that had a cold drink left on it and
the condensation on the glass left a water ring on the surface, much
like one would get on a wood table top. What can we use to remove
that without causing a bigger problem? Tom, June
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tom: Take a look at my "Marble Repair Kit." If the
etch mark you have is not too severe, you should be able to fix it
by yourself. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6822: We
live in a historic farmhouse in upstate New York (near the New England
border). It is simple, yet elegant. We do a lot of cooking and we're
very messy and don't always clean up spills and coffee drips and cooking
messes right away. Right now we have a Formica countertop. It's old
(20 years) and in bad shape. We need to replace it and would like
to use granite or another stone rather than using any man-made products
in our historic house. For historic reasons, I would like to use something
quarried relatively locally (New England granite - preferably - or
New York state granite or, at the very least, something quarried in
the U.S.). I am looking for something with ease of maintenance, a
more "formal" look than soapstone (especially since my husband
doesn't like the look with our slate-blue cabinetry), and a stone
that's not porous. What should I do? I do NOT want a product that
stains! P.S. I really like the local salt-and-pepper type granites,
but I'm afraid the white background will show stains.Thank you, L.E.M.
June 17, Reply |
R1:
Dear L.E.M.: You like the NY state "salt-and- pepper" and
so do I! Go for it! It's only moderately absorbent and it can be effectively
sealed with my outlandish impregnator sealer MB-4. Pamper it daily
with my galactically famous MB-5 and ... you've got it made! :-)
However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or
"resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6821: I
am in the process of replacing my current kitchen and am considering
granite tops. After reading this site I am now concerned about quality
and stone type. What is a good granite "a true granite"
to look for? I want something that is durable and hopefully wont have
the problems that I have read about today on your site. Also I do
not want black or white stone. We are considering something along
the lines of a pink, grayish pink or a grayish blue. Please give me
some direction. Thanks Jim, June
17, Reply |
|
R1:
Dear Jim: Look into Gray Sardinia and Rosa Porrino. They are true
gological granites, are extrememly good and inexpensive, too! (Little
demand and lots of
supply.) However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a
good stone in the hands of some"Michelangelo"?! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6820: I've
just had a granite top installed in my kitchen and was advised by
the installer to use a mixture of white vinegar and water to clean
it. He enphasized "the more vinear the better". Vinegar
being acidic doesn't sound right to me, please help. Thank you very
much, Ben. June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ben: When we get to the point that even a consumer (who has the
sacred right of being specifically ignorant about stone) realizes
the idiocy of the advice given to him by none other than the fabricator
who's got his money ... well, one may really wonder how the indystry
can survive! It may sound funny, but it isn't.Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6819: We
are currently remodeling our kitchen and plan to stay in the house
15+ years. Therefore, I'm looking at purchasing a counter top that
will last. However, after reading the information on your website,
I am having reservations about installing granite counter tops in
my kitchen. I'm currently looking at Santa Cecelia, Venetian Gold,
and Giallo Veneziano. If I get one of these and seal it regularly,
am I okay with these, or do I have to worry about chipping, pitting,
or staining still? Thank you so much! Sandi, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sandra: While I will say that I can hardly blame you about your hesitation,
I don't think you should give in to the possibility of not having
some good "granite" in your home. The alarming ignorance
about the stones they fabricate and sell is the reason of your fears;
proper intelligence is the name of the only possible game. About the
stone you mentioned, if the grade of the slab is good and the sealing
is done properly, they should be quite enjoyabel. However, I seldom
make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be
differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! I did write
a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen
Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6818:Our building has 55 units all with the same kitchen counters:
Baseltina Lava Stone. In almost all of the kitchens our counters are
staining from cooking oil. In addition, our own counter, just beside
the sink, is starting to show tiny pits. And we just moved in a month
ago. Should we expect these counters to stain? Could they be improperly
sealed? Is there a sealer we ought to be using? Your help appreciated!
Thanks, Jay, June 17, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jay: Basaltina? Of course you should expect that material to
stain: it's like a sponge!! Two to three applications of my outlandish
MB-4 and the following routine care of those countertops with my galactically
renown MB-5 will take care of that, though! You're gonna have to first
remove those nasty stains, however! When it comes to stain removal,
either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits"
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you,
or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on
how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more
effective means that you may already have in your household! Such
impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains
apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6817: After
reading about water damage to travertine and the filler, I must ask
how you feel about travertine in a steam shower? If this is not a
good idea what do you suggest? I really like natural stone. June 17,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Max: You never heard about those damages from me, did you? The
only way that water damages can occur to travertine (and the filler)
is if the travertine tiles hadn't been installed properly. Valuable
tips on proper installation of stone tiles in a shower stall, as well
as solid advice on it's future care can be found in a specicif article
of mine, namely my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6816: One month ago I had Santa Cecelia Light (more creme ) Granite
installed with sealer. I keep a glass cutting board over the area
where I put wet things. I noticed a red spot in several areas. I was
told the water penetrated and caused a fungus as it is only in this
area. I put clorox for a short time on the area. I was afraid it would
ruin it more. I also put comet w/bleach and let it sit.Nothing seems
to remove the stain. The installer will not do anything because it
was not there when they installed. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.Susan, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: "I was told the water penetrated
and caused a fungus as it is only in this area. " I've heard
a lot of wappers in my day, but this one is very darn near the top
of the list!! :-) Since the customer service of your installer doesn't
seem to be of a quality worth writing home about, unfortunately, without
having the possibility of actually seeing them, I can't even try to
guess what happened and the nature of these mysterious red stain.
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
"Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our
EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE section at: Once you have the article in your
hands and understood the mechanics of what's involved at removing
stains, gimme a holler via e-mail and I'll guide you through the attempts
that you will have to try out. You're in direct contact with me now.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6815: I
am trying to imitate soapstone by mixing talc, magnetite, chloride
and dolomite but I do not know how to mix them proportionally to make
a heat retention material almost similar to that of soapstone. M.D,
June 17,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear M.D.: And I thought I was the funny one!! Let me tell ya, for
a split second you almost got me!!! I do appreciate the opportunity
of a good laugh at the end of a long day! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6814: I
have had travertine installed poorly. Is any way to grind it down?
Ruby, June 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Ruby: Yes, of course. You need the services of a proven stone restoration
contractor.Now, you'd better watch out! I consider stone refinishing
as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from
a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks
on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could
you trust the recommendationof your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive
article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor,
which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent
choice. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6813: I
have a beautiful dark green, black and brown striated granite countertop.
I just love it. I do everything on the countertop not thinking that
I could stain it. In the middle of my counter is a dark spot and off
to the left of that are several dark vertical lines. I called the
installer and he suggested using K2R spot remover. That didn't work.
Then he suggested a poultice of mineral spirits and flour. I put that
on overnite and when I took it off the spot was even darker. I used
a hair dryer hoping that would do something and it lightened the spot
a little. I know I need to reseal the surface but I don't want to
seal the spot in. Could you please help me and let me know if I can
do anything. Thank you so much for your response and I look forward
to hearing from you. Karen, June
15, Reply |
R1:
Dear Karen: You've got to know the nature of the stain to prepare
an intelligent plan of attack. If the poultice with mineral spirit
didn't work it might be an organic stqin instead of an oily one. (Unless
you did something wrong with your poulticing.) When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone
retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive
guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more
effective means that you may already have in your household! Such
impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains
apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter!Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6812:
We are
in the process of buying our new (and first) home and are confused
about the countertops to use. Granite seems way out of our budget
and are debating between Corian and Tile. We like the look of tile,
but want something which is minimum maintenance. Both love to cook
and resistance to stains, scratches and cuts are highest on our
list. What would you suggest? Should we try to go over budget and
get Granite or will Tile/Corian be good enough. Please guide.
June
15, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Pinky: I don't know where you live, but unless it's a weird place
Corian is not much cheaper than granite.Are you concern about scratches
and cuts? So why should you ever consider Corian, which is nothing
but a piece of plastic?
Granite is the way to go, even if you have to stretch your budget
a little bit. But ... you'd better know what you're looking for when
you go out and shop for a granite countertop! The choice of the "granite"
is paramount!
I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6811: I
have been reading the website to find out about how to fix these yellow
stains that showed up on our beautiful new Italian mosaic shower --
which is white thassos. We did not seal after installation and by
the time we were ready to seal there were already yellow stains on
some parts of the mosaic. We decided to seal everything, but after
sealing, some of the yellow stains became even darker and we began
to notice new stains going up the walls of the shower...
Do
you think these stains could come off with hydrogen peroxide and
baking soda? And how do you think the water got behind the tile
in the first place -- the grout looks ok and the mosaic is stained
only in some areas, although the water ofcourse goes everywhere
on the floor and the walls of the shower... Wanted to get in touch
with you in case you could help out this situation... thank you
Maria, June 15, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Maria: You can try, but don't hold your breath. :-( Make sure
that the Hydrogen Peroxide is at least 30 volume - 40 would be even
better. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site's postings, you're
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer.
Don't become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6810: Granite
was installed using small amounts of "Liquid Nails" construction
adhesive on the unpolished underside of the countertop. This unfortunately
has slightly discolored and darkened the topside polished areas around
where the adhesive was used on the bottom of the granite slab. This
is unsealed brand new granite in a light color. How and what do we
use to remove the stain ? I realize you charge a small fee, so let
me know what that is. Thanks, June 14, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mark: I really appreciate the fact that you offered to pay my
consultation fee, but just forgat about it. I like to charge only
when I can offer a solution.In your case, alas, there's none. Whoever
used Liquid Nail to install your top is totally ignorant about granite
installation. Those stains are there
for good, sorry. BTW, even if the granite had been sealed those stains
would have happened
just the same. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6809: we
recently had the blue peral gt installed in our kitchen. When the
slab was installed the installers threw a hammer on the top and put
a tiny chip in my counter top. The installer tried to buff it out
leaving a huge swirl mark. They agreed to exchange the slab and did
replace it with a blue peral however it is a different and lighter
shade. Waiting a week the owner of the company said that my blue peral
is hard to match, that 2 slabs came in and neither match my original.
So what they would like to do is take my first original slab that
had been ripped out and send it to a perfessional buffing company
and have it buffed down properly. Im a little concerned and do not
know if i should trust this decision. Sandra, June 14, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sandra: Yes, you should trust that decision, providing that you
will not accept the slab if the job is not done right. Waht I don't
understand is why they have
to remove the countertop and bring it to a professional stone refinisher.
A qualifed one should be able to spot polish to match on location.
However, it's not your problem. Now, remember, it's never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject
that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many
of this site's postings, you're not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6808: Can
you tell me what I need to buy or do to remove a red wine stain (or
etch) from my polished limestone table top And do you ship to the
UK ?? Thks, June 14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary: You probably have a combination of a stain with a "stain."
The stain is the discoloration that the red wine made to your stone,
while the "stain" is the etching caused by the acidity of
the wine (acetic acid). When it comes to stain removal, either you
buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no
true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you
can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to
remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that
you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature
will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains",
and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag,
and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE section Show
him this correspondence and ask him to sell you a jar of MB-11. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6807: Is
there a web site to explore different patterns using PA Bluestone
cut pieces of different sizes i.e. 12"x12"; 12"x18";
18"x18". ; 12x24 etc I appreciate any help you can send
me. Thanks, Cheryl, June 8, Reply |
| Q
6806: I am building a custom bath tub/shower and am in the process
of trying to determine the best stone tile for the job. I was originally
considering using some limestone tile but after reading some of the
posts on your site I am reconsidering. One interesting point about
the limestone tile is that the owner of the tile store where I would
buy it from says he used it in his own bath. He claims it is more
dense then travertine and is low maintenance. After looking over some
of the posts on your site I think he may either not know what he is
talking about or he may feeding me a line.
I have
been looking through some of your posts and have not yet discovered
the definitive reasoning for NOT USING limestone in the bath. Though
it is becoming apparent to me that the higher porosity and difficulty
in cleaning are the leading strikes against it. I am hoping that
you can expand a bit on
the liabilities of limestone or point me to a post that does this.So
far, based on what I have learned from your great website, I am
nowthinking about doing my bath as follows: 18+ACI deep Tub: porcelain
tile to rim------because the tub will see the heaviest water use
Shower walls: Travertine------because the shower walls will get
splashed but will not get soaked like the tub Any feed back that
you can offer will be greatly appreciated. Peter, June 8,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Peter: The Jura beige limestone is as dense as travertine and
quite enjoyable, too.
The reason why I’m against limestone in general is because the
term limestone covers a huge array of stones, which, while all limestone,
can be miles apart in performance. Some of them literally melt away
under the hot water of a shower!
Since I don’t know every single limestone there is out there
(nobody paid me to find out!!) the risk involved at embracing the
term “limestone” are too many for me to recommend it. But,
like I said, some limestones are good indeed.
Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too
often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6805: We
just had installed 3/8 inch absolute black granite 12x12 tiles around
a fireplace surround and hearth over painted brick...although rather
late to ask, was there a special product that should have been used
to affix the tiles, since the surround and hearth will be subjected
to a lot of heat? Also, we used midnight black grout....however it
has dried a light grey. What do I do now? And should the granite tiles
be sealed? Thanks. L.C. June 8, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: Regular white thin-set should do just fine. You mixed
the grout with too much water. Your only solution is to use a black
grout staining agent, available at most tile and marble retail outlets.
Black granite will not take any impregnator/sealer in. Besides, even
if it did, what are you planning to stain your fireplace surround
with: coffee, cooking oil, Ocean Spray??? :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6803: Our
neighbors just left and their daughter had an accident on our travertine
floors. Fortunately, she made it to the bathroom; however, she left
a very large puddle on the travertine floor. Needless to say, I wiped
it up right away and then re-wiped a few times with water. For sanitary
purposes, is there some type of disinfectant that I could use on the
travertine that is in the bathroom that will not damage the floors?
Thanks in advance for your time, D, June
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dory: Yes, there is and it’s called MB-15. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6802: My
husband's niece was over las tnight and put a hand print on our limestone
hearth edge with pizza grease. What can I do to remove this? I tried
a few things but nothing is helping. It has never been sealed - I
didn't know it was supposed to be sealed but it is mentioned on a
few websites. Does this make a difference in removing the stain? Help!
I'm desparate!!! Thank you, Nicole, June
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Nicole: Oh come on now, “desperate” over an oil stain?!
:-) It’s no big deal, really.
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
“Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6801: Hi,
I am trying to redo my kitchen, I am trying to decide between Silestone
and Granite. I have 4 children and need something that will be easy.
I have a dark kitchen , so I am looking to do a lighter, neutral counter
top. Can you tell me the difference between Silestone and granite.
Can you also recommend any granite counter tops in the beige, w/ black
specks family? June
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Christine: Silestone is manmade material (this group of materials
are called engineered stone). Despite the marketing hype surrounding
them, which tout them like a bullet-proof material without the “,imitations”
of granite, there are a few exceptions to that “perfection!”
First off, it’s not as heat resistant as granite, second it can
be sensitive to UV ray and, third, it does not require any less care
than granite, beside the fact that indeed it does not need to be sealed.
Having said, and going into personale preferences, I can’t even
begin to compare granite to engineered stone. A beige granite with
black speck could be the Italia Bianco Sardo, a.k.a. as Luna Pearl
and a.k.a. “Salt ,n, pepper.” It does need to be sealed
(with my outlandish MB-4, of course!! :-)) but it’s absorbency
is well within the norm. However, I seldom make final statements about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
I agree with Maurizio, however, I will point out a few good things
about Silestone. It comes in several colors not found in nature, which
some people like. It can be cleaned with Windex or 409, and its uniformity
lends itself to seams that are hard to see. More importantly, check
out the fabricator and installer of your countertop. Get phone numbers
of the last 5 customers and call them. It doesn’t matter how
beautiful it is if it is not installed right. Sal Bruno, Installer
|
| Q
6800: We
have a newly installed bathroom counter that we were told is Ingo
Marble. When it was installed, the stone looked beautiful but the
installer had trouble getting the edges cut right so the contractor
fired them and brought in another company. The new company smoothed
the edges in place and waxed it and some dark lines that look like
water marks appeared along where there are some hairline fissures.
It is unclear whether or not the stone was sealed prior to being waxed
and, if it was, what kind of sealer was used. To make a long story
short, we know nothing about what should have been done and what went
wrong and the contractor is denying that anything is wrong (in spite
of the fact that we asked for the stone scraps and none of these marks
exist in the scraps). The contractor has told us that stone changes
color in spots when sealed ("just like varnish brings out the
grain in wood"). Could you please tell us 1) what should have
been done, 2) whether the stone should ever change color from the
sealing process, 3) what you think may have caused the problem, and
4) if anything could be done to remove the stains at the point? Thank
you very much. Kara and Doug Bowman, Santa Cruz, CA, June
07, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Kara: Ingo marble??... Never heard of it. What does it look like?
The new company smoothed the edges in place and waxed them?? And why
would they do that?
“and some dark lines that look like water marks appeared along
where there are some hairline fissures” Sorry, but by your description
I can’t picture the problem. Where are these “water marks”-like
things? On the edges or the top? “It is unclear whether or not
the stone was sealed prior to being waxed and, if it was, what kind
of sealer was used.” And why would anybody ever seal polished
marble??
“The contractor has told us that stone changes color in spots
when sealed ("just like varnish brings out the grain in wood").”
You’re kidding, right?! :-)
A sealer for stone – which is a below-surface product and shouldn’t
be there to begin with – that changes the color of the stone??!...
And he compares a sealer for stone – which has nothing to do
with the finish of the stone – to wood varnish????!... What planet
is that “Michelangelo” coming from??!
The only thing I suggest you to do is get rid of that moron and call
a stone restoration professional instead. A real one, that is! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6799: If
only I would have found this website before installing a new kitchen!
Can you tell me if there is any way to get a lemon juice stain out
of Black Galaxy granite (I see now that may have been a bad decision
for a kitchen countertop)? Can it be polished out? The granite was
sealed with an impregnator sealer (was that a bad decision too??),
but the lemon juice still stained it. THANKS!!! Kandis, June
05, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Kandis: I have black galaxy in my own (extremely busy) kitchen
for well over eight years now. It’s one of the most bullet-proof
materials that money can buy! There is no way that lemon juice can
possibly “stain” it. If fact, the lemon juice did not stain
your black-galaxy at all!! Have your fabricator solve the problem;
after all they made good money out of the deal, and they are indeed
the direct responsible for your “mysterious stains.”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6798: We
are at our one year warranty list and don't know if this is a problem
or not. Ive read some of the questions on your site and know that
some granite has to be sealed and others not. We ha e the Gallo St.
Ceilia granite. It darkens when it become wet. The problem is after
a year it doesn't lighten up anymore. Can this be fixed? Should it
have been sealed? HELP! They are coming on Monday, June 7 to see what
the problem is. Maria, June
05, Reply |
R1:
Dear Maria: “They are coming on Monday, June 7 to see what the
problem is.”???
Why, don’t they know what the problem is already? Your stone
should have been sealed properly – which of course it was not
– and now you have (possibly) and oil stain, which has to be
removed. That’s all! After that, your countertop has to be properly
sealed (with my outlandish MB-4, of course!! :-)) and then maintained
properly after that!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6797: We
have been given the project to analyze various "recrystallization"
formulas used in the marble floor care field. We believe that we have
been sucessfull up to this point: we are unable to identify and locate
the "wax-like" substance blended within this phosphoric
acid solution. Can you be of assistance? Thank you, John, June 05,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear John: I don’t think I can help you. The less I know about
crystal-crap, the better I feel! :-) I can actually polish marble,
therefore I don’t need to take chances with a make-believe procedure
that would like to be universal but is not. No treatment for marble
is universal. It could not be: marbles can bee quite different from
one another and trying to find a formula to treat them all the same
way is pure hog-wash. I don’t even understand the usefulness
and the purpose of the crystal-crap process. Sorry, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6796: I
have just finished reading letter and responses on your web site.
Although some of the situations seemed similar they didn't quite answer
the questions I have. One week ago we had installed Uba Tuba counter
& island tops in our kitchen. It looked beautiful until I noticed
under the light 6
rings the size of beer bottles and 1 ring being slightly larger. My
husband drinks Corona and obviously used the counter top to open the
cold bottle and add the lime wedge. However, I do not know if he wiped
any spillage afterward. I remember the guy who installed it saying
that rings
usually evaporate in a day. Well these have not. What should I do?
I hope we have not ruined our Uba Tuba in the first week. This is
very disappointing to us and we are almost paranoid to us the counter
now. I do not belive the guy who installed it said it was sealed.
I believe he said
it is natually sealed and does not need sealing.
Also
can you recommend a daily cleaner and periodic polisher. Please
respond with your wealth of knowledge so we can remove the rings
and move on knowing what and what not to do. Thank you for your
help. Holly, June 04, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Holly: That Ubatuba does not need to be sealed is quite correct.
But naturally sealed??...please!! At any rate, something is sitting
on your countertop that gets damaged (etched) by the acidity of drinks
and other stuff that could be spilled on it. The stone itself does
not! You have to get rid of whatever it is. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6795: I
tried your lemon juice test and fortunately my scrap of granite passed
- it didn't absorb the lemon juice at all. However, for kicks, after
this test I put a dollop of olive oil on it. This left a slightly
dark stain that would only be obvious if you were looking for it.
But I'm assuming that a sealer should be used on our counters anyway?
(I forget the name of the granite but it's a very common one from
Brazil with black speckles.) Thank you - Johanna, June
04, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Johanna: You did the right thing, and not
just for kicks. That is why is called the lemon juice (and oil) test!
:-) Now, just make sure that you’re going to apply my outlandish
MB-4 impregnator for stone to your beloved countertop! It comes with
a 10-year warranty, which means that you won’t need to re-apply
it for the next 10 years! While you’re at it, why don’t
you look at one of my countertop kits? They are on special right now!
:-) now! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6794: I'm
going to install a Honed 18x18, filled Turkish Travertine tile in
my kitchen. I've done a lot of ceramic tile in my day but this is
the first natural stone. The sub-floor is plywood and reasonably flat.
What do you recommend for the backer board (hardi vs concrete) and
what type of mortar? I've decided to go with a 1/16 grout space (based
on reading your QA Board) but I'd like to go with a non-sanded grout
if this will be strong enough. I also plan to use your MB-4 to seal.
Should I seal before the grout? Also, I will have to do quite a bit
of cutting. I have a good wet tile-saw and dry angle grinder with
diamond blades (Granite rated blades). Any tricks or techniques you
can recommend when cutting the Travertine? Great site and thanks for
the advice? Lon, June
04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lon: Although I installed a little over 400 marble and travertine
floors back in my day in my native Italy, the techniques I used were
totally different. In fact, over there, everything is concrete and
bricks and the problems that you have here with wood-framed houses
do not exist. For the few grind-in-place installations I’ve got
involved with in this country, I always relied on the services of
proven tile and stone setters to do the laying of my floors before
I got into the picture. The only thing that I can tell you for sure
is that you DO want to use unsanded grout. As for your maintenance
related question, my MB-4 will do a great job indeed. Apply it only
after at least a week (two weeks would be better) of curing time (setting
material and grout). Considering how dense travertine is, one application
will do. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6793: I
just had "Juperana Delicatus" installed in my kitchen. I
chose it because it was beautiful, and I had never seen it before.
After reading so many horror stories, I am wondering if there is any
information that you have on this particular granite. Also, how often
does it need to be sealed, and what should I use to clean it? Thank
You. Nina, June
03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Nina: So now we have this Juaparana Delicatus, huh!... How many
Juparanas are we up to now? 328 or something?? :-) I really have no
idea what particular stone you’re talking about. I got really
sick and tired trying to keep track of all these fancy new “new
granites”, which in all too many cases are the same stuff under
a different name so that you can’t shop them around!!
As far as the frequency of the sealing is concerned, it much depends
on the make of the impregnator/sealer that was originally applied
by your fabricator. For instance, my outlandish MB-4 comes with a
10 years warranty – which means that for 10 years you won’t
need to re-apply it. Ask your fabricator if they used a long term-impregnator
or one of those crappy ones that need to be applied once a year or
something. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6792: I
have recently installed a "Blue Pearl" granite slab in my
kitchen for an island countertop. During installation I have notice
several long hairline cuts across the surface. The installer said
it was from the slicing of thegranite into slabs, where the slabs
were made (Italy?), and it was common to see his. And the hairline
cuts were not his doing. Is this true? If so, how can I minimize or
remove these hairline cuts? The granite was sealed. June
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rose: Even assuming – by a long flight of super-stressed
imagination – that the hog-wash put forth by your fabricator
is true (which is not), why do they sell a slab that’s clearly
defective – whether the defect was made by the factory or not?
Would your fabricator buy a brand-new car all scratched up, and then
when he goes back to the dealer complaining they tell him to suck
it up because those scratches were made by the factory?? You can’t
remove those damages. Nobody can, not even a professional. Threaten
to take their butt in court if they won’t replace your whole
countertop with a good-quality slab: you have an easy case! But hurry
up: “Michelangelos” like your fabricator have the funny
tendency of disappearing into the night! And BTW, do NOT allow them
to seal your new Blue Pearl countertop when they’ll get around
to make it for you! You’re in direct contact with me now. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
6791: I
work for one of the largest stone fabricators in the Seattle area
(myself newer to the industry) and allot of what I am reading in the
question/answer series is opposite of what I am hearing from our fabricators/suppliers.
Example: we always seal granite (not with the 511, which is for very
porous stones) and explain to clients that it helps to keep stains
from penetrating the pours. Nothing is 100% impervious to staining.
Another one is the use of limestone in a kitchen. You mentioned that
Jurastone is not a good option for kitchen countertops, yet I thought
it was one of the more dense limestone? Also you are saying that travertine
is good in a kitchen. June 03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Melissa: I must have missed your previous message. So I will
answer that one first.
Jurastone doesn’t come in one format only at least here on the
East. One type is quite dense and indeed suitable in a kitchen (it
doesn’t etch much, either), but another one – still coming
from the same region – is not any different from many other “sponge”
limestone. Hence my hesitation at recommending it across the board.
As for travertine, it is just as dense as the “good” Jurastone.
The advantage of travertine is that – with only a couple of exceptions
– it’s pretty much consistent no matter where it comes from,
because of the only possible way in which it was formed.
Now about the sealing issue. I must grant that all stone (with the
exception of the mono-crystal ones) have a certain degree of absorbency,
but in some of them such degree is so limited that by all intents
and purposes they don’t absorb anything. Their pores are just
too tight. Water won’t go in, oil won’t go in. And an impregnator
– which must be thicker than water and oil – won’t
go in, either! Consequently, not only the application of an impregnator
will turn out to be totally useless, but in all too many cases its
very presence will be the cause of “mysterious problems”
that nobody seem to know how to solve for the simple reason that nobody
can’t grab the real nature of them. This is not my opinion: the
threads that get posted every single day on this very forum (and others)
reporting these “mysterious problems” should give everybody
enough pause to start thinking that, perhaps, there’s something
quite wrong with the application of standard blanket (easy to learn
and to remember) rules to a material, natural stone, that’s nothing
but standard, considering that approximately 95% of all commercial
granites are related to true granite and to each other like a cat
to a cow! I make arguably one of the best impregnator/sealer on the
market today, Melissa. It would be to my financial advantage to join
the choir and rip up the benefits. I don’t do that. We have this
corporate motto of ours, “Education before any sale!” (which
was my own brainchild), and, as amazing as it may come to you, we
actually mean it!
Here attached find the article you requested and some more material.
You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
|
