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ADVICE WANTED!   Jan 14, 2004
www.findstone.com   info@findstone.com

Q 6106: My wife has acquired a marble fire surround, the side pieces are U shaped, a flat front section and two side pieces fixed to the back of the front section. Both ends of the U section are closed due to the top and bottom ornamental features, these varying parts are fixed together with stone blocks fixed into position with a white mortar? This leaves the U section basically empty.How does one fit these side sections to the vertical brick wall which is rendered and plastered? Could you please give me some advice, I would be most greatfull. Lyle, Jan 14, Reply
R1: cinching bolts & bent stainless steel plates. Ba
Q 6100: I have a terrazo floor in the family room installed about thirty years ago. Over the last ten years a carpet was down and when it was removed the floor is terribly discolored and glue from the carpet in embedded on the floor. What can I do to pick up the glue and get rid of the yellowing. I am willing to do this job with my three teenage children and we are not afraid of work. What equipment and supplies do I need to accomplish this. I appreciate any feedback I can get concerning this. Donna, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Donna: You need a stone restoration professional. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: I have saved many antique terrazzo floors in Cuba. I have also done many new ones.
Rent a floor polishing machine. use coarse abrasive grinding stone. 32 or 46 grid. "Desbasta" grind all living room evenly. You have to be careful not to stop moving the machine constantly because if the machine is going and you stop moving, it will cut downed deep at the please that it was left with out been moved. Don't be scare, just mauve at a rhythm and in , if you wish, round or side way forward and sideways back worth. It is better to do it wet. it will work better. Do evenly all over until all the area is of the same lived color. Don't rash, check all around and be sure that it is evenly done.
Change the first stones and insert #80 grinding stone. do the same you did in the first please. The difference is that at this time you are not longer train to achieve evenness of the color but now you are to eliminate al the scratches that the # 32 or 46 (coarse) stone left. When no scratches are left and you check in all corners an all over many time, ( if you see any , mark it with a wax crayon, and go over thus places that are not done. It happened all the time. When all is perfect, install #120 grinding stone.
The 120 is very important. after that you should not be able to find the most minimum scratch in the floor.
Then #220 or 240, Follow by#340, #400, #600, #800, #1200 and to finish you can use 5 Extra, pulirai, Jonson's waks or ocsalic salt.
Wash the floor well with abundant water. Apply floor sealer. There are many in the market. I trust more the Italian ones.
After that , enjoy your job by living there. and be proud of your work, Camilo
Q 6098: Is there a way to prevent hard water stains on a polished black granite countertop? We just moved into a new home and every time I use the faucets in the kitchen and the bathroom (which are mounted on the surface of the granite) I get ugly white hard water stains. It is aroyal pain to have to clean these all the time - we've been using CLR which seems to work well for this. We are thinking of purchasing a water softener which should help somewhat, but I was hoping that there was some sort of protectant that I could or should wipe on the surface around the taps. Also, is there a particular type of sealer that we should be using for polished black granite (or ones we should avoid)? How often should it be applied? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.Vera, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Vera: "(or ones we should avoid)?" All of them (including my own!) hoping that they didn't apply any right after the installation. "How often should it be applied?" Never. About your hard water problem a water-softener will help a great deal. I would also consider the application (very sparingly) of a topical stone polish like my MB-13. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6096: I just visited your website to find some information on cleaning some marred areas on honed limestone...I live in Los Angeles...so the weather is primarily dry...But I think when I had the limestone installed in my shower, countertops, and surround around the bathtub...I don't think it was sealed..I have sealed it myself, but I think you mentioned a product for cleaning...I would be interested in it....Thank you, Kathi, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Kathi: I really don't think that the dryness of the LA climate has any bearing over a shower stall installation; it heavily "rains" every single day in there!! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6095: We just had Classico Antica (granite) countertops installed in our kitchen. We were told to use a specialized polish on the granite once each week, for three months and then after that, once a year.This is week two and we have begun to notice that there is a feeling of sand on the countertops. Does this mean that they were not properly sealed? They are new and we've only used water on them.Will using the product they provided, called Tenax/ Skudo ,stop this rough feel to the granite? Loved your advice to others. Can you help us? Natalie Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Natalie: A specialized polish on your granite once a week for three weeks, and then once a year?!?! What the heck is that?!?! If it is the Skudo product that you're talking about, I can tell you that's an excellent product, but it's no a polish: it's an impregnator/sealer and every excess must be removed off the stone surface. What's more, being that I'm quite familiar with that product, no more than three applications will do for many years to come. The grittiness you feel now is probably the build-up of the product. If I were you I would demand your fabricator to come back and remove all that stuff off your stone surface. It won't be easy, I promise! This is really something that upset me: impregnator/sealers are not to be considered consumers products. Only after a thorough explanation of the mechanic of the product and how it should be properly applied, could a consumer use the product themselves. We're talking a brand-new installation here. Why didn't the fabricator finish his own job and do the sealing right? Should be interested (and considering the kind of "intelligent" your fabricator gave you should!), Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6094: We would like to know about Hacked Surface/Polish. I am not able to locate in the link sent by you earlier. Sona, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Sona: "Hacked Surface/Polish"?? What on earth is that? Nothing edible, I hope! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6093: I only wish I had done some more research before buying my honed nero absoluto worktop. When the worktop arrived, I noticed no smudging on the surface, it appeared to be uniform in colour. However after fitting the worktop, and the workmen sealing it, later on in the day I began to notice finger marks, grease marks that I am certain were not there in the beginning.I had not even began cooking in the kitchen yet! I tried to wash the marks off with some water but this did not remove them. I am hoping that I can do something to rescue the worktop I have saved up for ages to get. Please advise I am so desperate to sort this problem out.1. Should I remove this sealant, and with what. Can you give me instructions on how to do this or do I need a professional to do this? Will it be very time consuming. When the granite was sealed, I was told that something was quickly wiped on the surfaceand wiped off. When the sealant is removed, will it also remove the existing marks? 2. I know that I need to put a colour enhancer after the sealant is removed. Again can I do this myself or do I need a professional to do this. Also can I buy the colour enhancer from you as I am in London.3. Do I need to seal the worktop after the colour enhancer is applied or is this unneccessary? Thank you for your help which is very greatly appreciated.Choo McCarthy, Kevin, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Kevin: Well, you save me lots of time, because you've already reached all the right conclusions! The sealer must be stripped off (which will automatically remove all surface staining that you're experiencing) and then a color enhancer will need to the applied instead. Can you do it yourself? I doubt it. The best sure way to remove the sealer is to re-hone the countertop with a honing powder. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6091: We recently installed Benissmo Black Empress granite tile in our kitchen. A glass was left on the countertop for approximately 2 hours and left behind a white ring. The glass contained a mixture of lemon juice, champagne, simple syrup and vodka. The tile had recently been sealed (twice) by the tile installer. We tried to polish out the spot with countertop granite polish but were unsuccessful. Do you have any experience with this particular type of granite or have any suggestions how to remove the ring? I called the store where we purchased the tile and their recommendation was to remove the sealer and then reapply it, making sure it was “worked in”. Chris, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Chris: "a mixture of lemon juice, champagne, simple syrup and vodka" Yammy, it sounds good to me!! "Benissmo Black Empress granite tile", huh … Never heard of such an animal. For what I know of black empress - without the "very well" (Benissimo) thing - is that's a very dark green marble that looks almost black. But then again, this Benissimo before the Black Empress may indicate a different stone altogether. The fact is that if it is indeed a "granite" of sorts, there is the possibility that the stupid sealer applied onto it is the culprit of your problem. But then again, I'm just fishing here. There are too many "black granites" out there. Without seeing it I can't tell anything intelligent. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
Q 6090: I had honed and filled light travertine installed throughout the majority of my home and have been in the learning process since then. The samples in the showroom were not representative of the product I received. The travertine is from Turkey with a large color variation and had quite a few large areas of fill, but didn't have any chipped edges. The back of some of the tiles had large crevaces in them, with some areas where the travertine looked very thin. During the installation process, initially some hand sanding was done for lippage, then a general sanding was done when there were too many swirl patterns from the hand sander. The installer then used a couple of screens and buffed out the floor. Afterward, a penetrating sealer was applied. The floor looked very dirty, especially where the large areas of fill are and as I have a lot of light filtering throughout my home. The installer came back and used a neutral cleaner on the floor and then applied "Plaza" sealer and buffed it out. Within 2 weeks, holes started showing up in the travertine in the high traffic areas. The installer came back and replaced several tiles he said were "weak" and then used screens on the floor, regrouted the floor and used a crystallizer next to try and eliminate the "dirty" look. Within 2 weeks, holes are beginning to show up again, some the size of quarters, especially in the high traffic areas. You can even cause the edge of the holes to crack by pressing with your fingernail and they are not at grout lines, but are on the interior of the tiles. The installer is telling us that the travertine is not of good quality and eventually the supplier has agreed that there is a problem. We don't see a solution other than to go through another complete tear out and install other stone. How do we make sure that we are getting first grade travertine that won't develop these large holes again? This was purchased at "Expo" design center and our flexibility to seek out another supplier is not possible. They may even come back with some other solution that we fear will just again be a temporary fix.Any advice offered is appreciated. Mary, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Mary: I can tell you what you can do to make sure that your next travertine installation won't develop the same problems you're experiencing now: shoot your tile setter dead, and then kill him again another couple of times!! Every single thing he reportedly did, from the original faulty installation with "lips", to the way he removed them, and whatever else he did to those poor innocent tiles after that, which culminated with the crysta-crapping of your floor is meant to open holes and destroy the inner structure of the stone itself. And now it's the stone's fault!! :-) You can get the best travertine in the world, but if that guy goes even one mile near it again it will turn into a heap of junk! And then, of course, the conclusion will be that travertine is not a good stone!! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: My name is Camilo Garcia.I have 22 years of experience and my suggestion is to get other material. Travertine is not, I repeat it is not to be used on a heavy or even a medium traffic area.Travertine is porous and no matter how you fill them, all the holes will wear out in some other areas and you will have other different sized and shaped holes. Travertine is a beautiful marble while being formed. It is like a bone, very porous. My recommendation is granite or quartz tile. And minimum, you will be satisfied with a hard marble. If you send me back a sample of the travertine that Expo used at you home, I promise to look for a similar colour in another material and indicate a supplier and an installer that will cost you less than Expo and will guaranty the materials and the job done for 20 years, Camilo
Q 6089: The counter was sold to me as black granite, but I have no idea if it truly is. In short my counter came in contact with a rust removing chemical that resulted in dull hazy etching. I tried the polish that came with my counter and eventually I purchased MB6 stone color enhancer based on a response to a person with a similar problem. The counter looks like new until the enhancer or polish is removed. For this reason I’m not sure it’s absorbing properly. Is there any way to help aid the absorption? If I still can’t hide the etching, does anyone know a reputable stone restoration specialist in the Dallas, TX area? If not, what sort of repair process should I expect so I might weed out the amateurs? I’ve heard many horror stories of using “magic crystals” and steel wool type polishing pads that do more harm than good.Thanks in advance, Don, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Don: It could have been black granite all right. Rust removers typically contain hydrofluoric Acid - which is the only acid that can damage granite. The problem is further enhanced by the fact that the etching also produces the melting of the surface crystals thus preventing any color enhancer from being properly absorbed. Only a bona fide stone refinisher will be able to fix the problem by honing and re-polish. I understand your concern about the quackery that's going on about stone refinishing, but the good news in this case is that no quack would ever consider taking your job! No, unfortunately I don't know any stone restorer in your neck of the woods. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6088: Previous owners had spilled candle wax in numerous places on our limestone hearth. I scraped up most of the wax but oily stains remain. Any advice on how to remove the stains? Any advice would be appreciated. Sincerely, Lynn, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Lynn: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6087: We are buying a tract home built by Barratt American. Tunis Verde granite was chosen by the builder for the kitchen and included in the purchase price of our home. Because we bought fairly early in the building process we asked to change to Giallo Veneziano and our request was approved. However, none of the import yards in our area had the correct color of Giallo Veneziano (all slabs were more pink than gold). Therefore, due to timeline pressures from Barratt we settled on another choice of granite: St. Cecelia.
My questions is whether or not St. Cecelia is of the same caliber(grade) (price) as Tunis Verde, (the orginal choice we paid for)? What is the approximate price difference per square foot between the two stones?
Also, I read somewhere on your website about the care that is needed in sealing St. Cecelia properly. Can you direct me or provide for me directions on how to do this so I can talk intelligently with the fabricator of our counters? I am concerned we were pressured into selecting an inferior stone due to someone else's time line. Montijo, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Montijo: There is no substantial difference - if any - cost wise between the stones you listed. Talking intelligently with your fabricator about it? How intelligent is he? The problem that I have I situation like that is that builder selects a fabricator (in all to many cases the lowest bidder, alas) and you're stuck with it. So what difference does it make being able to talk intelligently with them? :-) Let's just hope that Barrat American made an exception to their rule and chose quality over price. Sometime it happens when they can't find a low-baller in some particular area. Where I am trying to drive is that I would never, under any circumstances, let a builder choose a fabricator, or a tile setter for me! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
R2: santa cecilia is a much cheaper granite also more care shoul be used in sealing as santa cecilia is abit more porus ask for density and absortion rate specs, Victor
R3: Santa Cecilia is more cheap than Tunis Verde. also cheaper than Giallo Veneziano. The diference of price could be aprox 3 dolars per sq.foot. Santa Cecilia usually come from brazil resingned when needed. If you need any informations, we would be glad to assist you. Our warehouse in USA could answers all your questions. Eduardo
R4: Hello Dearest Dears, I learned you were looking for santa cecilia. We can provide you resined 2cm slabs (comercial type) at us$ 25.00/m² FOB Vitoria. Hope to hear from you. click here for the image Regards, Artur
R5: 8 to 10 dollars per. sq. ft. more depending on fabicators pricing. Dwayne
Q 6086: I am a GC which recently built a beautiful restaurant. At the piano shaped bar area we installed a 4 foot wide black granite border following the bar shape. Ever since the finish installation a mysterious film appears on the stone, something like a clear grease smudge. The installer is very experienced and only cleaned the floor with water and applied a 911 Impregnator as a finishing touch. >From my side we suspect that one of the restaurant staff applied something to the floor. We found a can of pledge nearby. Can this be the problem or is there a defect in the stone? Whatever, we need some suggestions on how to remedy. Dave, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Dan: No defect in the stone! It's either the Pledge, or the impregnator/sealer that your fabricator applied to the stone thinking that is granite, and that he should have not done. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6085: We are currently installing Venitian Stone Elegant Selection Rialto tile in a shower. It was recommended we use sandless grout. Should we use a standard 1/8 inch separation for the tile? Should we abutt the tile similar to a standard ceramic tile installation? Does the separation matter? Daburge, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Daburge: 1/16" grout gap is "your man" and yes, you want to use sandless grout. Keep it on thick side and make sure that it goes as deep as possible in between the tiles. IN the corners you will use color matching caulk instead. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: Never use water to clean your alabaster...the water will disolve the mineral composition. the presence of mildew means the presence of water. add a desicant to your storage system i.e. the tiny packets that come in shoes & hand bags; or a healthy amount of white rice. Ba
Q 6083: We live in Seattle and we're in the process of a kitchen remodel. I found a picture in a local design magazine which displayed a laminated limestone kitchen countertop. Can you tell me about the process of laminating limestone and the benefits of doing this? Thank you so much, MAryellen, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Maryellen: The only lamination I know about is the one on the edges of a stone countertop, which is a popular practice when dealing with 2 cm. thick labs. The benefit is mostly aesthetic. If the article you saw makes reference to some other lamination technique it must be something new that I'm not yet familiar with. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: The lamination is a heavy-duty sealing process. it is either lacquer or synthetic clear varnish. however, the stone must breath. if moisture enters the stone through a scratch or an unsealed face (the underside) it will dissolve the stone from the inside out. Do not seal the entire slab! this will have the same disasterous effect. the designer responsible for the installation must justify the use of limestone in a function it is not suited. Ba
R1: Dear Desperate Wally: You must be desperate all right! You forgot to tell us what kind of floor you have! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6080: We have granite tiles with grout in our kitchen. I dropped about two cups of cooking oil under the stove. I was never able to clean it. Well, it seeped into the grout and is now soaking into the tiles so that you can see it traveling out under the stove. Nothing will make it come out. Do you have any ideas? It looks like a water mark that's spreading out. I would really appreciate! Maria, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Maria: I'm afraid I've got bad news for you! You know what I mean, right? Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: Remove the stove (use all necessary precautions) clean up the remaining oil on the surface of the floor. cut out the offending stained grout & regrout. Ba
Q 6079: I reccomend begining carvers try carving slate - incredable results- very quick.
I'm located in Maui Hawaii, so not too useful but feel free to get info from me about this -
ps- I "seal" travertine with car wash and wax- prior to installation- this puts a grout/thinset release quality to it and leaves no residue- I also clean after with a much more mild solution/ waret rince after- not slippery at all- but beads water like its sealed- dirt comes off easier and had no sealer tackyness to hold dirt there- has a hose clean ability when done exterior- i suggest re cleaning with wash n wax every 3 or so months- finish 2000- as it has no actual (slippery?) wax in it- smells great too!
Makena, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Makena: What on earth are you talking about? … Is this a question of sorts?? … :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: You sound like a crazy fool. although car wax might work in your home, it is definately not compatible with natural stone & should not be recommended to any installer or homeowner. there is an entire industry based on the fact car wax & shoe polish is no good for stone
Q 6078: We recently remodeled our kitchen. We used a Brazilian granite called 'green sapoti' and I'd like your recommendation on how to care for and clean the counters. Is it as simple as using soap and water, or is there a product that you would recommend that best cares for the surface? Can you use disinfectant moist wipes like Clorox or Windex moist wipes? Thanks for your advice. Dee Seward, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Dee Seward: You could use wipes only if the label specifies that are safe on natural stone. Vague indications like "safe on sealed marble" don't mean a thing. About the use of disinfectant in general, I always warn people not to overuse them: nobody ever follows the direction printed on the bottle (which are quite important for those particular products). Their improper use and excessive use, leads to environmental and health hazards. I have a disinfectant cleaner in my product line, namely MB-15, but I'm very cautious about it. About disinfectant wipes, they are the type of products that get misused the most. I'm about to introduce some wipe/cleaner in my product line, but I decided against disinfectant. About the other possible "cleaners" you mentioned, I am against anything that was not specifically formulated to deal with natural stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6077: I have new honed marble floors that look like they have mop streaks on them. The cleaner said they used soap and water to clean up before we moved in. I don't want them to shine, just to look consistant. Percy, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Percy: Soap and water will leave streaks, but they should easily come out. If they are permanent, then they used something different than soap. Vinegar, maybe? It could also be that the soap they used was pH active. Impossible to tell without seeing it. I just hope they are surface streaks and not etching. If there's no damage, then the use of the right cleaning agent will take care of your problem. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6076: I recently purchased an lalbaster statue in Greece. Unofrtunately on the flight home it broke. Do you have any suggestions on how to repair it? Stefan, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Stefan: If it's a clean break you could try with Crazy Glue or the likes. It won't work out to your expectations, then your only option is to hire a stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
Q 6075: We are considering making a dining room table from a large slab of Brown Rainforest marble. We would like the table to be 44" x 96". The marble is 2 cm thick. We are concerned about the weight of the slab. We were planning on two supports for the table top and want to know if this is adequate and what is recommended for supporting the marble to avoid any breaking or sagging of the table top. Thank you. Jeff, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Jeff, If I am reading your plan correctly, you will be spaning a minimum of 32 inches between supports with 32 inch over hangs, or a wider span between supports and less overhang at each end. With 2 cm material??? Just asking for trouble in my opinion.There was a post on here a while back from a lady who's 2 cm table top had broken during a meal, dumping dinner into her guests laps. Fortunetly in her case, nothing was hurt other than feelings --lucky for her. 2 cm material,while heavy, does not have the tensil strength for this application no matter what the salesman says. JVC
R2: Dear Jeff: Nobody could give you a final answer without actually seeing your table. You have to relay on the experience of your fabricator. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R3: Best bet...support the table top w/ 3/4'" exterior grade ply wood. But I am not an engineer
Q 6074: I am about to have a new travertine floor installed in my dining room. The salesperson/decorator suggested that the installer should grout over the tile to fill the pores. Is this a proper approach as it changes the character of the limestone? If the installer doesn't spread grout on the tile, should the floor be treated with an impregnator or sealer? Jan 10, Reply
R1: I don't understand. Using the grout to fill the pores of the stone, or the holes? Is your travertine unfilled for any chance? Then you talk about limestone … I really don't know what to tell you with that kind of information. The only thing I know is that I never heard about the practice of spreading grout over the tiles (no matter what stone it is) to fill its pores. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
R2: Find a material suitable for this application. travertine or limestone should not be used on this floor, Ba
Q 6073: I have just installed some Thasso White in my living room. Is sealing erquired for this type of marble ? There are also some "cracks" which I did not notice prior to installation. According to the contractor, these "crack-like" lines had developed after installation and is due to the nature of the marble. Is is the case and how to tell a real crack from such "crack-like" lines ? Most appreciate any advice given. Goh, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Goh: Applying an impregnator sealer on polished marble in a living room is a waste of time and money. About the hairline cracks you're reporting, you installer must know something that I don't: I never heard about "crack-like" lines!! I never heard about White Thassos being inherently prone to those "things", either!!Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: Your cracks were created during installation. chances are they are internal and look white. the installer probalbly used a rubber mallet to set the tile at proper height instead of a perfectly level set bed & a carefully guaged notched-trowling, Ba
Q 6072: Is it true that real Absolute Black Granite does not have the variation in color and texture from slab to slab that most other granites have? We were told when we picked out our granite from the wholesaler, that since it was the absolute black that we did not need to come pick out the individual slab as there was little to no variation. However, after the stone was installed by the fabricator it looks completely different and is a lighter shade. Could this still be absolute black? Thanks for any help or advice you may have. Rachel, Jan 10, Reply
R1: Dear Rachel: The name of Black Absolute should be used exclusively to the original one coming from South Africa. What you've heard about black "granite" is true. On paper, that is. Only the gods know what the heck of "black granite" you've got! The stone industry is a happy bunch indeed! No standards about the geological classification of the stones, no standards about their denominations, no standards about their grading, no certification programs for contractors who deal with stone, no maintenance guidelines that won't sound like a sad joke ... did I leave anything out? Basically it all boils down to the fabricator's knowledge, experience, reputation and business ethics. Now that we've got your money, welcome to the industry and thank you for your patronage!... NEXT!!! , Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
R2: There are 3 types of absolute black: Belfast, from S. Africa; India, from India; & Zimbabwe, from Zimbabwe. they get progressively lighter & less regular as listed. Chances are you have Zimbabwe since the other 2 are in limited supply & very expensive. Next time, pick your stone like you would pick a diamond; that means slab approval! and signature the back of the slab to insure you get the one you choose. Ba
Q 6065: Is Giallo Antico a good granite for a kitchen? We had planned to go with silestone, but the look of this stone is beatiful with our oak cabinets. I know that the granite will need to be sealed, but will oils and juices still absorb after it's sealed? Thanks, Dan, Jan 06, Reply
R1: Dan, Oils and Juices will absorb if left on the surface - that applies to any materials ..amir
R2: Never had any complaints with Giallo Antico Dan. I will say that the cutter has to be careful with the layout. Even though the material looks the same in color it can vary from slab to slab an in the slab itself. This color change is very hard to pick up with the eye so my rule is to keep the seemed parts close together on the slab and if seemed parts have to be taken from two slabs (even if it's the same lot) it has to be matched with sample cuts. If this rule is not followed the seems will look like night and day. Alex
R3: After sealing a granite, it will not absorb any substance. Granite is the most durable and beutiful looking for the kitchen. It stays forever nice looking and hardness. Mx
R4: It just depends on how you seal it. Anjila
R5: Common sense is the key. If you seal the top properly you won't have a problem. If something spills wipe it up. I've installed it a few times with no complaints. Granite
R6: I am an Interior Designer and have specified Giallo Antico for client's jobs. It is beautiful and very durable. Oils and juices will not harm it. Mary
R8: Antico is a fine choice. Medium density. Most fabricators seal their installed product. However, if yours doesn't, use a petroleum based sealer. No 'Home Depot' water based sealers. A good sealer will last 5+ years, if not longer. If the stone begins to 'water-spot', re-seal it. Sealing takes a whopping 5 minutes to do. Oils and juices are not a problem, not is heat or knives or much of anything else. Be mindful re cleaners that anything with ammonia will break down the sealer more rapidly, so steer away from those if possible. Boyd
R9: You will find, depending on the stones' finish, varing resistance to staining, depending on many variables like whether or not you use an impregnator or sealer to be determined by an expert who really knows the situation relative to all conditions involved. Several granite types are so non-porous that they will resist anything, while others are not worth a damn for kitchen or bath environments. Please also be sure you have what you think you do by cross checking carefully.

R10: Giallo antico is an exelent choise. If it is siled properly you can pour a gallon of oil every day and it will not get stained. The acidity from any juice or the color from it will not penetrate on its surfase if you sealed it properly. To sealed just get any (preferably Italian) granite sealer, pour on top of the surfase and let it work(penetrate and desapear, after, if it steel is being acsorved by the granite, pour more. Do not save on sealer. To buff the sealer of, use a steel woll. If it is too dificult to clean it out, dont werry, pour more sealler and before it drie out washe with water and a paper towel. It you do that, Your giallo antico countertop will be sealed for over a year. When will I know it is time again? Poot a glass of cool water on top of it, weit for few minutes, left it You will see a ring of condensationed water Wiped witha dried cloth or paper towel and if the ring desapear it is seel sealed, if the ring is steel there its mean thet the liquid penetrate and it is time to sealed again. Camilo
R11: Granite is one of the minerals with less absorption. If you consider the thousands of years the rock stood there without changing its pattern and color, you'll realize it. However some granites have a considerable level of porosity, which is not Giallo Antico's case.The process of finish in granite includes polishing and resining to ensure even more that there will be no absorption. Be sure the supplier used a good resin and that their polishing is high quality. Also note that granites with small cracks and fissures will not last very long. So, buy first quality granite.Best regards, Lucas
R12: Giallo Antico is a beutifull stone and would look nice in your application, Giallo Antico is a bit on the poris side so you should use a good silicone based impregnating sealer. Apply a good first coat, and let stone absorb the sealer for about 2-3 minutes before wiping dry. repeat a second time with a lite coat to ensure total coverage and remove any excess that may have puddled on the stone.This will keep your stone stain free and give it much more depth and beuty. Remember this is a poris stone so a repeat application once a year will keep your stone protected. One more important thing, do not clean your stone with any cleaner that has ammonia in it, most houshold kitchen and bath cleaners have ammonia in them, what this will do is strip the sealer off your stone leaving it unprotected. Onley use either dishliquid and water or a non-ammoniated stone cleaner that ia specially formulated not to remove the sealer, Either of these can be found at your local Lowes, Jimmy
R13: Hi, Dan,granite has strong ability of resisting oil and juice even if the alkali and acid.granite is better than sandstone regards their proof ability.good regards to your future beautiful kitchen. Rita
Q 6064: will pietra del cardoza countertops be hard to maintain? How does it compare to granite? What does it mean that it "calcites"? Jan 01, Reply
R1: Pietra di Cardosa is an Italian sandstone and, as such, is very, VERY absorbent. (Not because it’s Italian: because it’s sandstone! :-)) You will need to apply a good quality stone impregnator/sealer (like my MB-4) at least three times. Second, due to the natural roughness of sandstone it won’t be as easy to clean as in the case of polished granite. Finally, about your question of the meaning of “it’s calcite”, it only means that whoever told you that doesn’t know what he or she is talking about. Pietra di Cardosa – like any other sandstone – is a silicate rock, not a calcite-based one! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
Q 6063: Could you please tellme what "regular cleft" means when referring to flagstone? This term has been used on several occassions and I can"t find a definition. Thanks!! Jan 01, Reply
R1: Probably refering to "natural" cleft, or the way the layers of stone separate when split. JVC