| Q 6106:
My wife
has acquired a marble fire surround, the side pieces are U shaped,
a flat front section and two side pieces fixed to the back of the
front section. Both ends of the U section are closed due to the top
and bottom ornamental features, these varying parts are fixed together
with stone blocks fixed into position with a white mortar? This leaves
the U section basically empty.How does one fit these side sections
to the vertical brick wall which is rendered and plastered? Could
you please give me some advice, I would be most greatfull. Lyle, Jan
14, Reply |
| R1:
cinching bolts & bent stainless steel plates. Ba |
| Q 6100:
I have
a terrazo floor in the family room installed about thirty years ago.
Over the last ten years a carpet was down and when it was removed
the floor is terribly discolored and glue from the carpet in embedded
on the floor. What can I do to pick up the glue and get rid of the
yellowing. I am willing to do this job with my three teenage children
and we are not afraid of work. What equipment and supplies do I need
to accomplish this. I appreciate any feedback I can get concerning
this. Donna, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: You need a stone restoration professional. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
R2:
I
have saved many antique terrazzo floors in Cuba. I have also done
many new ones.
Rent a floor polishing machine. use coarse abrasive grinding stone.
32 or 46 grid. "Desbasta" grind all living room evenly.
You have to be careful not to stop moving the machine constantly because
if the machine is going and you stop moving, it will cut downed deep
at the please that it was left with out been moved. Don't be scare,
just mauve at a rhythm and in , if you wish, round or side way forward
and sideways back worth. It is better to do it wet. it will work better.
Do evenly all over until all the area is of the same lived color.
Don't rash, check all around and be sure that it is evenly done.
Change the first stones and insert #80 grinding stone. do the same
you did in the first please. The difference is that at this time you
are not longer train to achieve evenness of the color but now you
are to eliminate al the scratches that the # 32 or 46 (coarse) stone
left. When no scratches are left and you check in all corners an all
over many time, ( if you see any , mark it with a wax crayon, and
go over thus places that are not done. It happened all the time. When
all is perfect, install #120 grinding stone.
The 120 is very important. after that you should not be able to find
the most minimum scratch in the floor.
Then #220 or 240, Follow by#340, #400, #600, #800, #1200 and to finish
you can use 5 Extra, pulirai, Jonson's waks or ocsalic salt.
Wash the floor well with abundant water. Apply floor sealer. There
are many in the market. I trust more the Italian ones.
After that , enjoy your job by living there. and be proud of your
work, Camilo. |
| Q 6098:
Is there
a way to prevent hard water stains on a polished black granite countertop?
We just moved into a new home and every time I use the faucets in
the kitchen and the bathroom (which are mounted on the surface of
the granite) I get ugly white hard water stains. It is aroyal pain
to have to clean these all the time - we've been using CLR which seems
to work well for this. We are thinking of purchasing a water softener
which should help somewhat, but I was hoping that there was some sort
of protectant that I could or should wipe on the surface around the
taps. Also, is there a particular type of sealer that we should be
using for polished black granite (or ones we should avoid)? How often
should it be applied? Your advice would be greatly appreciated.Vera,
Jan 10,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Vera: "(or ones we should avoid)?" All of them (including
my own!) hoping that they didn't apply any right after the installation.
"How often should it be applied?" Never. About your hard
water problem a water-softener will help a great deal. I would also
consider the application (very sparingly) of a topical stone polish
like my MB-13. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6096:
I just
visited your website to find some information on cleaning some marred
areas on honed limestone...I live in Los Angeles...so the weather
is primarily dry...But I think when I had the limestone installed
in my shower, countertops, and surround around the bathtub...I don't
think it was sealed..I have sealed it myself, but I think you mentioned
a product for cleaning...I would be interested in it....Thank you,
Kathi, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kathi: I really don't think that the dryness of the LA climate has
any bearing over a shower stall installation; it heavily "rains"
every single day in there!! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6095:
We just
had Classico Antica (granite) countertops installed in our kitchen.
We were told to use a specialized polish on the granite once each
week, for three months and then after that, once a year.This is week
two and we have begun to notice that there is a feeling of sand on
the countertops. Does this mean that they were not properly sealed?
They are new and we've only used water on them.Will using the product
they provided, called Tenax/ Skudo ,stop this rough feel to the granite?
Loved your advice to others. Can you help us? Natalie
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Natalie: A specialized polish on your granite once a week for three
weeks, and then once a year?!?! What the heck is that?!?! If it is
the Skudo product that you're talking about, I can tell you that's
an excellent product, but it's no a polish: it's an impregnator/sealer
and every excess must be removed off the stone surface. What's more,
being that I'm quite familiar with that product, no more than three
applications will do for many years to come. The grittiness you feel
now is probably the build-up of the product. If I were you I would
demand your fabricator to come back and remove all that stuff off
your stone surface. It won't be easy, I promise! This is really something
that upset me: impregnator/sealers are not to be considered consumers
products. Only after a thorough explanation of the mechanic of the
product and how it should be properly applied, could a consumer use
the product themselves. We're talking a brand-new installation here.
Why didn't the fabricator finish his own job and do the sealing right?
Should be interested (and considering the kind of "intelligent"
your fabricator gave you should!), Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
|
| Q 6094:
We would
like to know about Hacked Surface/Polish. I am not able to locate
in the link sent by you earlier. Sona, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sona: "Hacked Surface/Polish"?? What on earth is that? Nothing
edible, I hope! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6093:
I only
wish I had done some more research before buying my honed nero absoluto
worktop. When the worktop arrived, I noticed no smudging on the surface,
it appeared to be uniform in colour. However after fitting the worktop,
and the workmen sealing it, later on in the day I began to notice
finger marks, grease marks that I am certain were not there in the
beginning.I had not even began cooking in the kitchen yet! I tried
to wash the marks off with some water but this did not remove them.
I am hoping that I can do something to rescue the worktop I have saved
up for ages to get. Please advise I am so desperate to sort this problem
out.1. Should I remove this sealant, and with what. Can you give me
instructions on how to do this or do I need a professional to do this?
Will it be very time consuming. When the granite was sealed, I was
told that something was quickly wiped on the surfaceand wiped off.
When the sealant is removed, will it also remove the existing marks?
2. I know that I need to put a colour enhancer after the sealant is
removed. Again can I do this myself or do I need a professional to
do this. Also can I buy the colour enhancer from you as I am in London.3.
Do I need to seal the worktop after the colour enhancer is applied
or is this unneccessary? Thank you for your help which is very greatly
appreciated.Choo McCarthy, Kevin, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kevin: Well, you save me lots of time, because you've already reached
all the right conclusions! The sealer must be stripped off (which
will automatically remove all surface staining that you're experiencing)
and then a color enhancer will need to the applied instead. Can you
do it yourself? I doubt it. The best sure way to remove the sealer
is to re-hone the countertop with a honing powder. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q 6091:
We recently
installed Benissmo Black Empress granite tile in our kitchen. A glass
was left on the countertop for approximately 2 hours and left behind
a white ring. The glass contained a mixture of lemon juice, champagne,
simple syrup and vodka. The tile had recently been sealed (twice)
by the tile installer. We tried to polish out the spot with countertop
granite polish but were unsuccessful. Do you have any experience with
this particular type of granite or have any suggestions how to remove
the ring? I called the store where we purchased the tile and their
recommendation was to remove the sealer and then reapply it, making
sure it was “worked in”. Chris, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chris: "a mixture of lemon juice, champagne, simple syrup
and vodka" Yammy, it sounds good to me!! "Benissmo Black
Empress granite tile", huh … Never heard of such an animal.
For what I know of black empress - without the "very well"
(Benissimo) thing - is that's a very dark green marble that looks
almost black. But then again, this Benissimo before the Black Empress
may indicate a different stone altogether. The fact is that if it
is indeed a "granite" of sorts, there is the possibility
that the stupid sealer applied onto it is the culprit of your problem.
But then again, I'm just fishing here. There are too many "black
granites" out there. Without seeing it I can't tell anything
intelligent. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 6090:
I had
honed and filled light travertine installed throughout the majority
of my home and have been in the learning process since then. The samples
in the showroom were not representative of the product I received.
The travertine is from Turkey with a large color variation and had
quite a few large areas of fill, but didn't have any chipped edges.
The back of some of the tiles had large crevaces in them, with some
areas where the travertine looked very thin. During the installation
process, initially some hand sanding was done for lippage, then a
general sanding was done when there were too many swirl patterns from
the hand sander. The installer then used a couple of screens and buffed
out the floor. Afterward, a penetrating sealer was applied. The floor
looked very dirty, especially where the large areas of fill are and
as I have a lot of light filtering throughout my home. The installer
came back and used a neutral cleaner on the floor and then applied
"Plaza" sealer and buffed it out. Within 2 weeks, holes
started showing up in the travertine in the high traffic areas. The
installer came back and replaced several tiles he said were "weak"
and then used screens on the floor, regrouted the floor and used a
crystallizer next to try and eliminate the "dirty" look.
Within 2 weeks, holes are beginning to show up again, some the size
of quarters, especially in the high traffic areas. You can even cause
the edge of the holes to crack by pressing with your fingernail and
they are not at grout lines, but are on the interior of the tiles.
The installer is telling us that the travertine is not of good quality
and eventually the supplier has agreed that there is a problem. We
don't see a solution other than to go through another complete tear
out and install other stone. How do we make sure that we are getting
first grade travertine that won't develop these large holes again?
This was purchased at "Expo" design center and our flexibility
to seek out another supplier is not possible. They may even come back
with some other solution that we fear will just again be a temporary
fix.Any advice offered is appreciated. Mary, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: I can tell you what you can do to make sure that your next
travertine installation won't develop the same problems you're experiencing
now: shoot your tile setter dead, and then kill him again another
couple of times!! Every single thing he reportedly did, from the original
faulty installation with "lips", to the way he removed them,
and whatever else he did to those poor innocent tiles after that,
which culminated with the crysta-crapping of your floor is meant to
open holes and destroy the inner structure of the stone itself. And
now it's the stone's fault!! :-) You can get the best travertine in
the world, but if that guy goes even one mile near it again it will
turn into a heap of junk! And then, of course, the conclusion will
be that travertine is not a good stone!! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| R2:
My
name is Camilo Garcia.I have 22 years of experience and my suggestion
is to get other material. Travertine is not, I repeat it is not to
be used on a heavy or even a medium traffic area.Travertine is porous
and no matter how you fill them, all the holes will wear out in some
other areas and you will have other different sized and shaped holes.
Travertine is a beautiful marble while being formed. It is like a
bone, very porous. My recommendation is granite or quartz tile. And
minimum, you will be satisfied with a hard marble. If you send me
back a sample of the travertine that Expo used at you home, I promise
to look for a similar colour in another material and indicate a supplier
and an installer that will cost you less than Expo and will guaranty
the materials and the job done for 20 years, Camilo |
| Q 6089:
The counter
was sold to me as black granite, but I have no idea if it truly is.
In short my counter came in contact with a rust removing chemical
that resulted in dull hazy etching. I tried the polish that came with
my counter and eventually I purchased MB6 stone color enhancer based
on a response to a person with a similar problem. The counter looks
like new until the enhancer or polish is removed. For this reason
I’m not sure it’s absorbing properly. Is there any way to
help aid the absorption? If I still can’t hide the etching, does
anyone know a reputable stone restoration specialist in the Dallas,
TX area? If not, what sort of repair process should I expect so I
might weed out the amateurs? I’ve heard many horror stories of
using “magic crystals” and steel wool type polishing pads
that do more harm than good.Thanks in advance, Don, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Don: It could have been black granite all right. Rust removers typically
contain hydrofluoric Acid - which is the only acid that can damage
granite. The problem is further enhanced by the fact that the etching
also produces the melting of the surface crystals thus preventing
any color enhancer from being properly absorbed. Only a bona fide
stone refinisher will be able to fix the problem by honing and re-polish.
I understand your concern about the quackery that's going on about
stone refinishing, but the good news in this case is that no quack
would ever consider taking your job! No, unfortunately I don't know
any stone restorer in your neck of the woods. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q 6088:
Previous
owners had spilled candle wax in numerous places on our limestone
hearth. I scraped up most of the wax but oily stains remain. Any advice
on how to remove the stains? Any advice would be appreciated. Sincerely,
Lynn, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Lynn: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
Q 6087:
We are
buying a tract home built by Barratt American. Tunis Verde granite
was chosen by the builder for the kitchen and included in the purchase
price of our home. Because we bought fairly early in the building
process we asked to change to Giallo Veneziano and our request was
approved. However, none of the import yards in our area had the correct
color of Giallo Veneziano (all slabs were more pink than gold). Therefore,
due to timeline pressures from Barratt we settled on another choice
of granite: St. Cecelia.
My questions is whether or not St. Cecelia is of the same caliber(grade)
(price) as Tunis Verde, (the orginal choice we paid for)? What is
the approximate price difference per square foot between the two stones?
Also, I read somewhere on your website about the care that is needed
in sealing St. Cecelia properly. Can you direct me or provide for
me directions on how to do this so I can talk intelligently with the
fabricator of our counters? I am concerned we were pressured into
selecting an inferior stone due to someone else's time line. Montijo,
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Montijo: There is no substantial difference - if any - cost wise between
the stones you listed. Talking intelligently with your fabricator
about it? How intelligent is he? The problem that I have I situation
like that is that builder selects a fabricator (in all to many cases
the lowest bidder, alas) and you're stuck with it. So what difference
does it make being able to talk intelligently with them? :-) Let's
just hope that Barrat American made an exception to their rule and
chose quality over price. Sometime it happens when they can't find
a low-baller in some particular area. Where I am trying to drive is
that I would never, under any circumstances, let a builder choose
a fabricator, or a tile setter for me! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| R2:
santa cecilia is a much cheaper granite also more care shoul be used
in sealing as santa cecilia is abit more porus ask for density and
absortion rate specs, Victor |
| R3:
Santa
Cecilia is more cheap than Tunis Verde. also cheaper than Giallo Veneziano.
The diference of price could be aprox 3 dolars per sq.foot. Santa
Cecilia usually come from brazil resingned when needed. If you need
any informations, we would be glad to assist you. Our warehouse in
USA could answers all your questions. Eduardo |
| R4:
Hello
Dearest Dears, I learned you were looking for santa cecilia. We can
provide you resined 2cm slabs (comercial type) at us$ 25.00/m²
FOB Vitoria. Hope to hear from you. click
here for the image Regards, Artur |
| R5:
8
to 10 dollars per. sq. ft. more depending on fabicators pricing. Dwayne |
| Q 6086:
I am a
GC which recently built a beautiful restaurant. At the piano shaped
bar area we installed a 4 foot wide black granite border following
the bar shape. Ever since the finish installation a mysterious film
appears on the stone, something like a clear grease smudge. The installer
is very experienced and only cleaned the floor with water and applied
a 911 Impregnator as a finishing touch. >From my side we suspect
that one of the restaurant staff applied something to the floor. We
found a can of pledge nearby. Can this be the problem or is there
a defect in the stone? Whatever, we need some suggestions on how to
remedy. Dave, Jan 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Dan: No defect in the stone! It's either the Pledge, or the impregnator/sealer
that your fabricator applied to the stone thinking that is granite,
and that he should have not done. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
|
| Q 6085:
We are
currently installing Venitian Stone Elegant Selection Rialto tile
in a shower. It was recommended we use sandless grout. Should we use
a standard 1/8 inch separation for the tile? Should we abutt the tile
similar to a standard ceramic tile installation? Does the separation
matter? Daburge, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Daburge: 1/16" grout gap is "your man" and yes, you
want to use sandless grout. Keep it on thick side and make sure that
it goes as deep as possible in between the tiles. IN the corners you
will use color matching caulk instead. Now, remember, it's never too
early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a
subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| R2:
Never
use water to clean your alabaster...the water will disolve the mineral
composition. the presence of mildew means the presence of water. add
a desicant to your storage system i.e. the tiny packets that come
in shoes & hand bags; or a healthy amount of white rice. Ba |
| Q 6083:
We live
in Seattle and we're in the process of a kitchen remodel. I found
a picture in a local design magazine which displayed a laminated limestone
kitchen countertop. Can you tell me about the process of laminating
limestone and the benefits of doing this? Thank you so much,
MAryellen,
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Maryellen: The only lamination I know about is the one on the
edges of a stone countertop, which is a popular practice when dealing
with 2 cm. thick labs. The benefit is mostly aesthetic. If the article
you saw makes reference to some other lamination technique it must
be something new that I'm not yet familiar with. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| R2:
The
lamination is a heavy-duty sealing process. it is either lacquer or
synthetic clear varnish. however, the stone must breath. if moisture
enters the stone through a scratch or an unsealed face (the underside)
it will dissolve the stone from the inside out. Do not seal the entire
slab! this will have the same disasterous effect. the designer responsible
for the installation must justify the use of limestone in a function
it is not suited. Ba |
| Q 6081:
WE HAVE
HAD A BAD WINTER THIS YEAR. THE GUYS HAVE USED ROCK SALT OUTSIDE.AND
NOW THE ROCK SALT HAS BEEN TRACKED IN ON MY NEW FLOOR AND I CAN'T
GET OFF. PLEASE HELP WHAT SHOULD I DO? DESPERATE, Wally, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Desperate Wally: You must be desperate all right! You forgot to tell
us what kind of floor you have! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6080:
We have
granite tiles with grout in our kitchen. I dropped about two cups
of cooking oil under the stove. I was never able to clean it. Well,
it seeped into the grout and is now soaking into the tiles so that
you can see it traveling out under the stove. Nothing will make it
come out. Do you have any ideas? It looks like a water mark that's
spreading out. I would really appreciate! Maria, Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Maria: I'm afraid I've got bad news for you! You know what I mean,
right? Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| R2:
Remove
the stove (use all necessary precautions) clean up the remaining oil
on the surface of the floor. cut out the offending stained grout &
regrout. Ba |
Q 6079:
I reccomend
begining carvers try carving slate - incredable results- very quick.
I'm located in Maui Hawaii, so not too useful but feel free to get
info from me about this -
ps- I "seal" travertine with car wash and wax- prior to
installation- this puts a grout/thinset release quality to it and
leaves no residue- I also clean after with a much more mild solution/
waret rince after- not slippery at all- but beads water like its sealed-
dirt comes off easier and had no sealer tackyness to hold dirt there-
has a hose clean ability when done exterior- i suggest re cleaning
with wash n wax every 3 or so months- finish 2000- as it has no actual
(slippery?) wax in it- smells great too! Makena,
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Makena: What on earth are you talking about? … Is this a question
of sorts?? … :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| R2:
You
sound like a crazy fool. although car wax might work in your home,
it is definately not compatible with natural stone & should not
be recommended to any installer or homeowner. there is an entire industry
based on the fact car wax & shoe polish is no good for stone |
| Q 6078:
We recently
remodeled our kitchen. We used a Brazilian granite called 'green sapoti'
and I'd like your recommendation on how to care for and clean the
counters. Is it as simple as using soap and water, or is there a product
that you would recommend that best cares for the surface? Can you
use disinfectant moist wipes like Clorox or Windex moist wipes? Thanks
for your advice. Dee Seward, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Dee Seward: You could use wipes only if the label specifies that are
safe on natural stone. Vague indications like "safe on sealed
marble" don't mean a thing. About the use of disinfectant in
general, I always warn people not to overuse them: nobody ever follows
the direction printed on the bottle (which are quite important for
those particular products). Their improper use and excessive use,
leads to environmental and health hazards. I have a disinfectant cleaner
in my product line, namely MB-15, but I'm very cautious about it.
About disinfectant wipes, they are the type of products that get misused
the most. I'm about to introduce some wipe/cleaner in my product line,
but I decided against disinfectant. About the other possible "cleaners"
you mentioned, I am against anything that was not specifically formulated
to deal with natural stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6077:
I have
new honed marble floors that look like they have mop streaks on them.
The cleaner said they used soap and water to clean up before we moved
in. I don't want them to shine, just to look consistant. Percy,
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Percy: Soap and water will leave streaks, but they should easily come
out. If they are permanent, then they used something different than
soap. Vinegar, maybe? It could also be that the soap they used was
pH active. Impossible to tell without seeing it. I just hope they
are surface streaks and not etching. If there's no damage, then the
use of the right cleaning agent will take care of your problem. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q 6076:
I recently
purchased an lalbaster statue in Greece. Unofrtunately on the flight
home it broke. Do you have any suggestions on how to repair it? Stefan,
Jan 10,
Reply
|
| R1:
Stefan:
If it's a clean break you could try with Crazy Glue or the likes.
It won't work out to your expectations, then your only option is to
hire a stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
|
| Q 6075:
We are
considering making a dining room table from a large slab of Brown
Rainforest marble. We would like the table to be 44" x 96".
The marble is 2 cm thick. We are concerned about the weight of the
slab. We were planning on two supports for the table top and want
to know if this is adequate and what is recommended for supporting
the marble to avoid any breaking or sagging of the table top. Thank
you. Jeff,
Jan 10, Reply |
| R1:
Jeff, If I am reading your plan correctly, you will be spaning a minimum
of 32 inches between supports with 32 inch over hangs, or a wider
span between supports and less overhang at each end. With 2 cm material???
Just asking for trouble in my opinion.There was a post on here a while
back from a lady who's 2 cm table top had broken during a meal, dumping
dinner into her guests laps. Fortunetly in her case, nothing was hurt
other than feelings --lucky for her. 2 cm material,while heavy, does
not have the tensil strength for this application no matter what the
salesman says. JVC |
| R2:
Dear
Jeff: Nobody could give you a final answer without actually seeing
your table. You have to relay on the experience of your fabricator.
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| R3:
Best
bet...support the table top w/ 3/4'" exterior grade ply wood.
But I am not an engineer |
| Q 6074:
I am about
to have a new travertine floor installed in my dining room. The salesperson/decorator
suggested that the installer should grout over the tile to fill the
pores. Is this a proper approach as it changes the character of the
limestone? If the installer doesn't spread grout on the tile, should
the floor be treated with an impregnator or sealer? Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
I
don't understand. Using the grout to fill the pores of the stone,
or the holes? Is your travertine unfilled for any chance? Then you
talk about limestone … I really don't know what to tell you with
that kind of information. The only thing I know is that I never heard
about the practice of spreading grout over the tiles (no matter what
stone it is) to fill its pores. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| R2:
Find
a material suitable for this application. travertine or limestone
should not be used on this floor, Ba |
| Q 6073:
I have
just installed some Thasso White in my living room. Is sealing erquired
for this type of marble ? There are also some "cracks" which
I did not notice prior to installation. According to the contractor,
these "crack-like" lines had developed after installation
and is due to the nature of the marble. Is is the case and how to
tell a real crack from such "crack-like" lines ? Most appreciate
any advice given. Goh, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Goh: Applying an impregnator sealer on polished marble in a living
room is a waste of time and money. About the hairline cracks you're
reporting, you installer must know something that I don't: I never
heard about "crack-like" lines!! I never heard about White
Thassos being inherently prone to those "things", either!!Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| R2:
Your
cracks were created during installation. chances are they are internal
and look white. the installer probalbly used a rubber mallet to set
the tile at proper height instead of a perfectly level set bed &
a carefully guaged notched-trowling, Ba |
| Q 6072:
Is it
true that real Absolute Black Granite does not have the variation
in color and texture from slab to slab that most other granites have?
We were told when we picked out our granite from the wholesaler, that
since it was the absolute black that we did not need to come pick
out the individual slab as there was little to no variation. However,
after the stone was installed by the fabricator it looks completely
different and is a lighter shade. Could this still be absolute black?
Thanks for any help or advice you may have. Rachel, Jan
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Rachel: The name of Black Absolute should be used exclusively to the
original one coming from South Africa. What you've heard about black
"granite" is true. On paper, that is. Only the gods know
what the heck of "black granite" you've got! The stone industry
is a happy bunch indeed! No standards about the geological classification
of the stones, no standards about their denominations, no standards
about their grading, no certification programs for contractors who
deal with stone, no maintenance guidelines that won't sound like a
sad joke ... did I leave anything out? Basically it all boils down
to the fabricator's knowledge, experience, reputation and business
ethics. Now that we've got your money, welcome to the industry and
thank you for your patronage!... NEXT!!! , Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| R2:
There
are 3 types of absolute black: Belfast, from S. Africa; India, from
India; & Zimbabwe, from Zimbabwe. they get progressively lighter
& less regular as listed. Chances are you have Zimbabwe since
the other 2 are in limited supply & very expensive. Next time,
pick your stone like you would pick a diamond; that means slab approval!
and signature the back of the slab to insure you get the one you choose.
Ba |
| |
| Q 6065:
Is Giallo
Antico a good granite for a kitchen? We had planned to go with silestone,
but the look of this stone is beatiful with our oak cabinets. I know
that the granite will need to be sealed, but will oils and juices
still absorb after it's sealed? Thanks, Dan, Jan 06, Reply |
| R1:
Dan, Oils and Juices will absorb if left on the surface - that applies
to any materials ..amir |
| R2:
Never
had any complaints with Giallo Antico Dan. I will say that the cutter
has to be careful with the layout. Even though the material looks
the same in color it can vary from slab to slab an in the slab itself.
This color change is very hard to pick up with the eye so my rule
is to keep the seemed parts close together on the slab and if seemed
parts have to be taken from two slabs (even if it's the same lot)
it has to be matched with sample cuts. If this rule is not followed
the seems will look like night and day. Alex |
| R3:
After
sealing a granite, it will not absorb any substance. Granite is the
most durable and beutiful looking for the kitchen. It stays forever
nice looking and hardness. Mx |
| R4:
It
just depends on how you seal it. Anjila |
| R5:
Common
sense is the key. If you seal the top properly you won't have a problem.
If something spills wipe it up. I've installed it a few times with
no complaints. Granite |
| R6:
I am an Interior Designer and have specified Giallo Antico for client's
jobs. It is beautiful and very durable. Oils and juices will not harm
it. Mary |
| R7:
NO
SEALER IN THE MARKET IS CAPABLE OF FULLY PROTECTING NATURAL STONE.
NATURAL STONE IS EXTREMELY FUNCTIONAL BUT EVEN THOUGH IT STILL NEEDS
TO BE CARED FOR, MY ADVICE IS TO SEAL STONE ( SPECIALLY COUNTERS AND
VANITYES) AT LEAST 3 TIMES A YEAR, IN ADDITION WE HAVE TO BE CONSCIOUS
THAT CERTAIN CHEMICALS AND OILS LEFT IN A SURFACE FOR AN EXTENDED
AMOUNT OF TIME WILL PENETRATE. AVOID LEAVING OILY RAGS OR ANY OTHER
CHEMICALS ON THE SURFACE FOR OVER TWO HOURS ACCORDING TO MY TESTS
THIS IS HOW LONG IT TAKES FOR MOST CHEMICALS TO COMMENCE PENETRATING.
Paul |
| R8:
Antico
is a fine choice. Medium density. Most fabricators seal their installed
product. However, if yours doesn't, use a petroleum based sealer.
No 'Home Depot' water based sealers. A good sealer will last 5+ years,
if not longer. If the stone begins to 'water-spot', re-seal it. Sealing
takes a whopping 5 minutes to do. Oils and juices are not a problem,
not is heat or knives or much of anything else. Be mindful re cleaners
that anything with ammonia will break down the sealer more rapidly,
so steer away from those if possible. Boyd |
| R9:
You will find, depending on the stones' finish, varing resistance
to staining, depending on many variables like whether or not you use
an impregnator or sealer to be determined by an expert who really
knows the situation relative to all conditions involved. Several granite
types are so non-porous that they will resist anything, while others
are not worth a damn for kitchen or bath environments. Please also
be sure you have what you think you do by cross checking carefully.
|
| R10:
Giallo
antico is an exelent choise. If it is siled properly you can pour
a gallon of oil every day and it will not get stained. The acidity
from any juice or the color from it will not penetrate on its surfase
if you sealed it properly. To sealed just get any (preferably Italian)
granite sealer, pour on top of the surfase and let it work(penetrate
and desapear, after, if it steel is being acsorved by the granite,
pour more. Do not save on sealer. To buff the sealer of, use a steel
woll. If it is too dificult to clean it out, dont werry, pour more
sealler and before it drie out washe with water and a paper towel.
It you do that, Your giallo antico countertop will be sealed for over
a year. When will I know it is time again? Poot a glass of cool water
on top of it, weit for few minutes, left it You will see a ring of
condensationed water Wiped witha dried cloth or paper towel and if
the ring desapear it is seel sealed, if the ring is steel there its
mean thet the liquid penetrate and it is time to sealed again. Camilo |
| R11:
Granite
is one of the minerals with less absorption. If you consider the thousands
of years the rock stood there without changing its pattern and color,
you'll realize it. However some granites have a considerable level
of porosity, which is not Giallo Antico's case.The process of finish
in granite includes polishing and resining to ensure even more that
there will be no absorption. Be sure the supplier used a good resin
and that their polishing is high quality. Also note that granites
with small cracks and fissures will not last very long. So, buy first
quality granite.Best regards, Lucas |
| R12:
Giallo
Antico is a beutifull stone and would look nice in your application,
Giallo Antico is a bit on the poris side so you should use a good
silicone based impregnating sealer. Apply a good first coat, and let
stone absorb the sealer for about 2-3 minutes before wiping dry. repeat
a second time with a lite coat to ensure total coverage and remove
any excess that may have puddled on the stone.This will keep your
stone stain free and give it much more depth and beuty. Remember this
is a poris stone so a repeat application once a year will keep your
stone protected. One more important thing, do not clean your stone
with any cleaner that has ammonia in it, most houshold kitchen and
bath cleaners have ammonia in them, what this will do is strip the
sealer off your stone leaving it unprotected. Onley use either dishliquid
and water or a non-ammoniated stone cleaner that ia specially formulated
not to remove the sealer, Either of these can be found at your local
Lowes, Jimmy |
| R13:
Hi,
Dan,granite has strong ability of resisting oil and juice even if
the alkali and acid.granite is better than sandstone regards their
proof ability.good regards to your future beautiful kitchen. Rita |
| Q 6064:
will pietra del cardoza countertops be hard to maintain? How does
it compare to granite? What does it mean that it "calcites"?
Jan 01, Reply |
| R1:
Pietra di Cardosa is an Italian sandstone and, as such, is very, VERY
absorbent. (Not because it’s Italian: because it’s sandstone!
:-)) You will need to apply a good quality stone impregnator/sealer
(like my MB-4) at least three times. Second, due to the natural roughness
of sandstone it won’t be as easy to clean as in the case of polished
granite. Finally, about your question of the meaning of “it’s
calcite”, it only means that whoever told you that doesn’t
know what he or she is talking about. Pietra di Cardosa – like
any other sandstone – is a silicate rock, not a calcite-based
one! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 6063:
Could
you please tellme what "regular cleft" means when referring
to flagstone? This term has been used on several occassions and I
can"t find a definition. Thanks!! Jan 01, Reply |
| R1:
Probably
refering to "natural" cleft, or the way the layers of stone
separate when split. JVC |
