| ADVICE WANTED! | October 19 - 29, 2002 | |
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Q 4081: My wife and I are considering purchasing some black slate type counter tops, that have been taken out of an old school. Can you give us any advice as to what quality of slate that this probably is and do we need to apply any sealant, after installation. Also, how easy will this be to have cut? Thanks for any advice you may be able to give us, as we have little knowledge of the pros and cons of slate in use as a counter top. Thanks, Lonnie, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Lonnie: You do NOT want to do that! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistR2: Dear Lonnie, Briefly the cons, it scratches very easy and some say it's bland. The pros, for others nothing matches the look of a well honed slate, it is impervious to water and is resistant to most chemical attack it also cuts easily. As for treatments, either none take a chance on one of the many commercial treatments or if you can out up with the smell for a few day's boiled linseed oil was traditionally used in my area. If it was used for blackboards it's usually tops. Good Luck Bryan UK
Q 4080: I am tiling my countertop with a matte white 6x6 ceramic tile. i am also thinking of grouting it with black grout. should i stay with the tradtional white grout or think black grout will look good? don't like the stains with white, but, i am scared the black grout will look too bold. what do you think on this subject? i want to decorate with a country accent. how popular are these colors? thanks for your help, Linda, Oct 29. ReplyQ 4079: Hi i have a chip in my granite countertop in my kitchen, can i repair it with a special kit. its a dark color, so i can probobly use a dark epoxy to repair it. however, i'd like to know is there something special i can use. Thanks, Linclon, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Lincoln: No way, jose'! It's not for DIYers. Get a pro! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4078: I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen/family room. I have chosen "imperial red" granite for the countertops and a multicolor slate for the floor. Are these good choices as far as performance and durability? Easy care? Any advice is appreciated because there is still time to make changes if I act soon. Great site! Thanks, Renee' from Fort Worth, Texas, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Renee: "Imperial Red" is good. Slate for the floor is not. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelistQ 4077: I have marble countertops in the kitchen. Some vinegar got on the counters and where it sat for more than 5 minutes we have a light spot. I believe that it is the sealer that got discolored (might be polyurethane). What is the best way to get rid of these and bring the normal shine back, Jack, Oct 29. Reply.
R1: Dear Jack. Acid (vinegar) and marble (calcium carbonate) chemically react. Sealers penetrate the stone and do not prevent this very natural reaction. If you do in fact have a polyurethane coat on top of your stone (GASP), then you have a different problem all together. If the stone is etched chemically, it can be refinished by a professional stone restorer. If its a plastic surface, you need to strip that stuff off. JVC, Expert PanelistQ
4076: I OWN A PEDESTAL
MADE OF BEAUTIFUL ALABASTER STONE WHICH FELL AND NOW HAS SOME CRACKED PIECES.
HOW CAN I REPAIR IT WITHOUT IT BEING THAT NOTICEABLE? WILL A CLEAR EPOXY
GLUE WORK? HOW SHOULD I APPLY IT?
WILL IT ACTUALLY DRY CLEAR? I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE YOU CAN
GIVE ME. THANK YOU LINDA, Oct 29. Reply
Q 4075: We moved into our home three years ago, and discovered that the previous owner used Mop and Glow on the agglomerate marble kitchen floor, and hallway leaving a heavy wax build up that had yellowed. I stripped the wax off the floor using Tile Lab Heavy-Duty Cleaner and Stripper. It is very dull and has no shine on it. I used Aqua Mix Marble Re-Polishing System on one 12x12. This give it a little bit of shine. What would you suggest I use or do to get a super shiny floor like new marble? Eddie, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Eddie: Get a pro! Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistR2: I suggest you use a marble powder with red pad and clean water with high speed scrubbing machine to get a better shine and maintain with buffing once a week Abdul Aziz
Q 4074: We have what we think is a marble floor or perhaps serpentine but can't seem to identify it. It has a basic background of a very mild/light green. It then has wavy lines, swirls and irregular circles of off white and slightly darker greens. Throughout the greens are very subdued, almost looking like gray from a few feet away. Any ideas? Oct 29. ReplyQ 4073: email me relevant information on how to cut granite, and any available classes I could take. Chiris, Oct 29. Reply
Q 4072: I am having a new kitchen conter installed this week and we chose Stylstone (quartz). I am wondering, after the fact, what is your opinion on it. Have you heard of them? I had a sample of it and I did a test on the piece. I put raspberries, blueberries, oil, butter and beet peelings on, I left it on all day and when I wiped it off, there were no stains. I would like to hear what you think Carol, Oct 29. ReplyQ 4071: Hi! my slate countertops in our kitchen have become scuffed and scratched. I do not believe they were sealed when installed. How do I remove the scratches? Is there a rubbing compound that is safe? Jim, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Jim: Nope. Now, listen very carefully to me: get rid of your slate countertop as fast as you can. It may hurt your wallet, but remember, it's only money! Your mental health should come fisrt! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
Q 4070: email me relevant information on stone and it history. Bernadette, Oct 29. ReplyR1: Dear Bernadette: OK, let's see ... Once upon the time, some 65,000 years ago, the first humanoids started roaming a planet that later on was to be named earth. It's around that time that the love story between humankind and stone began. And they lived happily there after!! Now, is there anything else that you want to know? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4069: Cleaning sapphire blue or brown granite countertop I never treated my granit countertop since i have it. i actually never thought i had to. I would like to know what kind i need to do to it to restore the shine and protect it. besides telling me the steps are you able to recommend the best products. i bought a marble cleaner and polisher from my local tile store i put it in a very small spot to test it and it looks like the marble has more luster but i did not want to do the whole counter until i emailed your site for suggestions. thank you, Barb, Oct 29. ReplyR1: Dear Barab: Personally I'm very much against waxing a kitchen countertop. But then, it's just me, my wife and I use the our top as a food handling surfaceand we don't think that wax is a good idea. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4068: Can you please explain to me what bush hammering is and how it can be done on concrete material. We are a construction company in New York City working for the School Construction Authority which requires that we "bush hammer" the concrete. Thank you. Mrs. Milcetic, Oct 29. ReplyR1: Dear Mrs. Milcetic, Bush hammered is a technique to create a flat, rough textured surface. It can be done on concrete as well as stone. The bush hammer or chisel is a square surface with multiple points that impact the surface. Chisels come in sizes to fit the smallest carving hammers to large jack hammers. Hand held bush hammers also come in a variety of sizes. Someone in your construction company ought to be familiar with this. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Ms. Milcetic A bush hammer is a hammer with a dimpled face. When it strikes the material it leaves a dimpled interlaced with a chipped surface between the dimples. It was originally used to remove small amounts of material without taking out lumps but was often later used for it's effect. You can get pneumatic versions and in principle it is very similar to a concrete scabbler. Bryan UKQ 4067: I have just recently put down a Kashmir White floor down in my kitchen, and am getting Kashmir White countertop and backsplash. At looking at your website, it seems like I havn't made the best choice. Please advise how to clean the countertop and floors. I have seen you need to use soap and water. When you say "soap", what kind of soap are you referring to? Also, I dont believe my floors were sealed, and they have a brownish color in some of the tiles? What should I do about this? Thank you, Baine, Oct 29. Reply
R1: Dear Baine: Along with Shivasaki and Imperial, Kashmir is one the worst choices possible for a kitchen. It will need to be sealed professionally several times before it becomes almost stain proof. I feel sorry for you. Aolong with water an vinegar, soap and water are mong the worst cleaning solution possible when it comes to natural stone. There are better choices, of corse. Stone maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings (including yours, now)! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4066: What would the best rpm be for finishing edges and polishing granite? Thanks, Alex, Oct 29. Reply
Q 4065: HELP!!!! My cat urinated on the marble surround of my fireplace. It is black marble with cream accents throughout. The stain looks like white woven together fibers. I used traditional cleaners but nothing is working. Any info. would be most appreciated. J.F.Oct 29. ReplyR1: Dear J.F.: The uretic acid of your cat urine etched (corroded) the surface of the stone. On this left side bar you'll see a link to my "Lord of the Ring" article. Click on it and you'll have yhe answer to your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4064: What a great site. I have learned so much already. We had Sivakasi yellow installed in our kitchen about six months ago. It looks great and has not shown any sign of staining or etching. At the end of the installation, our installer wiped on a sealer and informed us that we should apply a sealer about every 6 to 12 months. I believe it was a coating sealer as it did not have a strong odor. The granite does shown some darkening when water is left on it for more then a few minutes but I believe that this is normal (isn't it?). As I mentioned the granite looks great. My big question is should I apply more sealer to this type of granite? Now that a coating has been applied, do I need to stay with a coating type? Thanks in advance for your help. Steve, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Steve,Yes you should continue to apply the same impregnator your fabricator used. This type of material is quite absorbent without it. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Steve: No, you're wrong: sealers for stone always to go inside the stone, and are not supposed to stay on top of it. The fact that it didn't smell only means that they used a water-based mpregnator, opposed to a solvent based. If water darkens it, then it means that it was not sealed properly. But then, nobody can seal completely that crappy orthogneiss that they sell as granite! See my answer to the posting No. 4058 below. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ
4063: Hi – I found
some 4” slate tiles that I would like to use for a small bathroom
countertop. Is slate a good choice for bathrooms? If not, do you have any
suggestions of a material that has the same look as dull slate? Thanks a
million! TARA, Oct 24. Reply
R2: Dear Tara, You can use the slate if you like. The bath vanity should be sealed when the installation is complete. Alternate materials are soapstone, honed marble or granite. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist
Q 4062: I,m trying to clean some deep stains from a 50 year old terrazo. i believe they were caused by water not being able to drain properly. The problem areas are were water puddles up after a rain. This floor is outdoors, sanding the floor lighten it up but the stains are still there, any clues on how to deal with this., Vicky, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Vicky: Forget it, those stains are too old. They'll never come out. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4061: I have streaking in my new granite counter tops how can I polish them than you, Ray , Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Ray: Streaking in your new granite countertops? What are you talking about? "How can I polish them than you" ?? ... Can you please translate that for me? By the way, why don't you have the fabricator who made good money out of you solve the problem? If they can't, then gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Ray, Try using a spray applied cleaner formulated for polished stone. Many stores carry this product. If you don't want to do that plan on drying the counter after you wash it. regards, StevenQ 4060: I am down to two choices of granite, and after reading your site, I am wondering if one of these is a better choice for a kitchen counter: Baltic Brown and Dakota Mahogany? Thank you for your time and advice. Ellen, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Ellen: Either one. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistR2: Dear Ellen, Both products in their natural state tend to have a fair amount of "pitting". Check with your countertop supplier to see if the slabs are factory "resined". If so then it is a matter of personal preference. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist
Q 4059: Thanks for what seems to be an unusually brilliant resource. However, I can only find repair and restoring advice as opposed to information on how toget things right in the first place.I've just laid a slate floor in my kitchen. I haven't even grouted it yet. What should I do? Thanks, Per, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Per: Oh, you're wrong about that! Personally I give more advice about selecting the right stone for the right place (when I have a chance, of course!), than maintenance tips after the cutting of the ribbon (see my answer to the posting 4058 right below yours!) So, I really don't know what and how extensively you read this place, but if you had read it deep enough you would have found out that always tell people to stay away from slate in the kitchen. Now, please, don't ask me what you have to do to make it enjoyable. If I -- or anybody else for that matter -- had an answer to that, I wouldn't be telling people not to use slate, would I! Get rid of it. It's only money! You have an option, though: you can always ask the merchants who sold the slate to you how to make it enjoyable! I'm sure they know everything about it and then some!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Per, Can you elaborate on what information you are interested in? Regards Steven, Expert PanelistR3: Dear Per, If you like it just enjoy it. Slate has it's problems but so do many other materials, marble being just one example. A good piece of Welsh slate as I have seen, will last hundreds of years on a kitchen floor and look even better for it. Bryan UK
Q 4058: Seems like I found your site a bit late,... after I had already purchased. At any rate, I bought a stone named "Amazon Gold" and had it installed. The counters look fantastic and I am hoping to keep them that way. I bought a "Penetrating Sealer" and have applied it according to directions five times already, having used a quart of product on just over 50 square feet of counter. Water drops still darken the counter after sitting for less than a minute (the water spots disappear after a few minutes).Worse yet, I have a piece of the material in the
garage that I have been using for testing. On one section that I applied
five applications of the sealer I placed a glass and dripped a few drops
of cranberry juice around the base of the glass. I left it overnight and
it resulted in a very visible
stain. Interestingly, I also left a few drops of vegetable oil on both
the unsealed section, the 1x, 2x, and the 5x Sealed sections of the test
slab. The oil stained the unsealed area and slightly in the 1x sealed
section, but did not penetrate any where where I used 2 or 5 applications
of the sealer.
Q: Should I buy more of the same sealer and continue applying it until the cows come home? Will I eventually achieve a water tight (cranberry & wine, etc - proof.) surface? Can I change my strategy at this point and apply a petroleum based sealer? Sincere Thanks, Murphy, Oct 24. Reply
R1:
Dear Murphy: Water-tight with
that stone? Not in your lifetime! Yes, keep sealing it, and sealing it,
and sealing it ... It's going to be any day now before it's sealed ... Any
day ... "Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings!
Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did!" Now, this is what I tell to most inquirers.
As you can't tell, it's right on the money, but, alas, a little too late
in your case!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4057: I just moved into a new home with travertine floor the in entry hall. I was concerned about the floor absorbing stains (had a previous major problem with a marble floor in a prior house) so asked the builder to seal the floor. He did so but the floor now appears murky as if construction dust had not been properly cleaned from the tiles when the sealer was applied. I would like to have the sealer removed and the tiles cleaned. How can I remove the sealer? After cleaning, I may or may not reseal since in reading responses to other questions re travertine it sounds like travertine floors do not require sealing. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Mike, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Mike: Travertine and marble don't need to be sealed. Travertine in particular absorbs virtually nothing. This is NOT my opinion, it a scientific fact. All the stains that you've been experiencing are NOT stains, they are "stains", acid etches that is, which are the one and only "enemy" of all calcite-based stones and have no relationwhatever with the absorbency rate of the stone. No sealer (not even mine, alas!) is supposed to do the first thing to prevent those kinds of surface damages. Have your contractor take care of the mess they made. If they don't know how to do it, have them gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'll be glad to teach them. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelistR2:
Dear Mike, You probably need
a professional too look at the floor to be sure.
Depending on the type of sealer used, it may be as simple as applying a
new coat and buffing the floor until completely dry.
Or the floor will need to be chemically stripped using some pretty caustic
chemicals. Either Acetone or Methylene Chloride. Please note both are quite
caustic and require proper ventilation and personal protection equipment
when used.
Then you can start over with the sealer. Though the travertine itself is
quite dense the "fill" and the grout are not. Regards, Steven,
Expert Panelist
R1: Dear Mick: Dish soap to clean it and counter-gloss to keep it shiny! ... Quite interesting! Let me guess: whas that the suggestion of you fabricator, or a stone retail outlet near you? Regardless, I'd suggest you to have your fabricator find out what the heck of a stone you actually have (no granite under the sun is blue shaffire, no matter what the invoice of the stone distributor says) and then solve the problem of the dullness. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Mick, It may be as simple as you have an oily residue on your counter. The best thing to do is to get a spray cleaner formulated for natural stone to clean your counters with. Regards, Steven, Expert PanelistQ 4055: I have a 4500 rpm table tile saw which works well on ceramic tiles, but I am now working in marble 12"x12" 's. What blade should I use to avoid edge chips? I saw a MD415 on their web-site listed as best for marble. I don't want to use my tile cutter (score type) on marble. I think it would not break cleanly given the veins in the natural stone. Any other recommendations? Thanks. Mark, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Mark, Before you do this job try to work with someone who has worked with marble before. I warn you, you are dealing with a product unlike ceramic tile. The installation method and cutting of the material are just the beginning of the differences. Regards, Steven, Expert PanelistQ
4054: I saw an inquiry
about a science lab table. We picked up two from a local high school. They
are old. They are oak with a table top that I am trying to identify. Black,
looks like marble and someone mentioned soapstone. Without actually seeing
it, is there any way to get a closer identification as to what this is.
My reason is two-fold...
A) I may use this in a room where my kids may play/eat snacks on it...
B) It has a lustre to it, how do I make it shine again.
It does not appear to be a manmade composite. There were some of those tables
there and this one was not one of them. When I knock on it, it sounds like
stone. (I compare this to knocking on my soapstone sink in my basement!)
I didn't think that soapstone could shine the way this does though.
Thoughts/comments/ simply tests?
Thanks.Mike, Oct 24. Reply
R2: Mike. If the tops were used in a science lab, I doubt that they are of marble, a stone that reacts chemically with any acidic substance. An easy way to determine if the tops are soapstone, or marble is to make some scratches on the bottom side of the slab with a knife or rasp, and collect the resulting dust. (you won't need much.) The dust will feel greasy (soapy) when you rub it between your thumb and finger if it is soapstone, it won't if it is marble. The dust will fizz if you add a drop of hydrochloric, or mureatic acid, or even a strong vinegar, if it is marble, it won't if it is soapstone. If it is marble, and you want a polished finish, you will need to get the top refinished by someone who does this sort of thing. If it is soapstone, you can resand it with wet/dry paper through as fine a grit as you choose, and either let it go at that, or use mineral oil to give it a deep dark luster. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist
R3: Dear Mike: Typically science lab table top are made out of soapstone, but you're right, soapstone can't polish. Who knows, maybe some "genious" coated those tops with polyhuretane or somethin'! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelistQ
4053: I have marble floors,
shower stalls and countertops of marble. How do I clean them safely?
Jervis, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4052: We would like to install travertine marble in our shower we installed tumbled marble on our countertops via your advice that we read.It came out beautiful. We have tile now with no leaks or mildew we need to know if we can install over the exsisting tile, or do we need to remove it totally. We will trust your advice, Geri, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Geri: Although I don't like the practive very much, if the existing tiles are are nice and dry, installing over them it's OK. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistR2: Geri, You could tile over the existing tile. YOu would need to scratch all the tile so that the new setting material could bond to it. Stagger the tile courses so that grout joints don't line up with each other. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist
Q 4051: We recently renovated our kitchen and decided to have black granite (with gold specks) benchtops and splashbacks. This was 5 months ago. Now we have noticed greyish stains which will not come out. I clean the benchtops constantly and polish once a week. With all the care I take I cannot believe that it can stain so easily. Can you please offer me any advice? Lisa, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Lisa: Yes, of course. "Black Galaxy" -- a gabbro from India and, very definitely, one of the best choices possible for a kitchen countertop (I have one myself for 6 years!) -- is NOT supposed to do what you're reporting. I know exactly what happened to it and how to put a permanent remedy to the situation so that you can enjoy your countertop for the rest of your life and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'll be glad to help! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Lisa, Unfortunately you may have a big problem. Call the original supplier and have them come out. Go to another section of your counter and wipe with a rag soaked in acetone. If the rag is black after you do this request that they replace the counters. Regards, Steven, Expert PanelistQ
4050: I am sending you
a power point of my kitchen
layout, I am planning to use Verde Laura, (imperial Green), (Verde jewel),
for my counter top. I lived in Herndon, VA area. Somewhere I read you are
in NJ or Penn? I'd like you give me a price fabricate and install? I cook
a lot, need low maintain and worry free granite. let me know ASAP. or if
you can recommend a local fabricator can be trust and know what they doing,
I'd be appreciated. Thanks Ling, Oct
24. Reply
Q 4049: Can you recommend a stone I can hand carve or pneumatic if I have to, that would have low water absorption and safe to use as a birdbath. I have access to Texas Red Rose Granite from Marble Falls Texas but it seems to me that that might be very absorptive. I am thinking an alabaster or a low grain marble would absorb the least. Is this right? Thanks Leslie, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Leslie, I don't know much about the granite from Marble Falls, since I work with the Texas Limestones. However, I don't believe that you will find the granite very easy to carve. I also don't think alabaster would be a good choice since it does not handle weathering very well, and of course, the marble would react to the acidic nature of the bird's droppings. Both stones would be easier to carve than the granite though. You might concider using a soapstone... Carves easy, is totally non pourous, and does not react to acidic substances. Good luck, JVC, Expert PanelistQ 4048: I am about to mosaic my existing bathroom sink and countertop - the sink is porcelain, the countertop is tile that was coated with "Duraglaze". I'm not sure which adhesive/grout will work best for this. Any suggestions? What is the best way to rough up the surface of the countertop to promote adhesion? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Kristy, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4047: We just bought a home with a lot of stone, but the previous owners didn't take care of it and now it's a mess. We've had a professional stone restoration company come look at it, but I'm not sure they know what is best. All of the floors in the kitchen and baths are travertine, along with all of the shower stalls. There are many stains. The good news is that most of them are in the grout lines and don't seem to be on the stone itself. Can I clean the grout without harming the stone? In the showers the problem is much bigger. There is a lot of hard water build up and soap scum all over the stone and the grout. It is white and really hard. I'm up to the challenge, but I need the reasurance that I will not destroy the stone. What products should I use? The restoration company told us to try wet/dry sanding and then seal all of it. I've read your advice on sealing and feel like I will be fine leaving the floors in the bathrooms unsealed, but I what about the shower? Will sealing help me keep up on the day to day cleaning of the hard water? Will it do more harm than good? Can I seal the grout and not the stone? What kind of caulk should be used on travertine? I appreciate any suggestions you have. I would also love any recomendations for products. I've got a big mess to clean up. Thanks!! Kim, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Kim: The shower stall -- due to the way you're describing it to us -- must be ripped out and redone: you jhave a lot of water under those travertine tiles! The good news is that you don't have to spend the money to do it. The house inspector should have been knowledgeable enough to realize that (if I did it without even seeing it!!). He's (his insurance, rather) supposed to pay for it. I just finshed helping a homeowner in court to win an identical case! About the stone restoration contractor, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4046: I HAVE ACQUIRED A 24 X 24 PIECE OF MARBLE. IT IS STILL IN THE ROUGH STAGE. I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE THIS INTO A CUTTING BOARD TO SIT ON TOP OF THE COUNTER. WHAT SHOULD I DO TO MAKE THIS POSSIBLE. I WILL NEED STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS IF AT ALL POSSIBLE. THANK YOU, KAREN, Oct 24. ReplyQ 4045: I found a granite that I want and the fabricator is not able to get it for me in 1 1/4". The name they used on it was Mello Yellow and it comes from Brazil. Do you have any idea of the granite I am talking about? And what the "real" name is for it? I would really appreciate your input in this matter!! JT, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4044: I am about to purchase blue pearl countertops and from what I've read on you websight it's very good for countertops. Most of the fabricators in my area are saying that they seal it before it is installed. I just talked to another fabricator that was very helpfull and seemed very knowledgable and said that the blue pearl is treated with and epoxy resin and baked at high temperatures to seal it. They told me that the resin is absorbed into the stone and will never be damaged and it will never need to be sealed. Is this resin coating an accptable process or will it lower the quality of the blue pearl granite? It seems to be the only place I talked to that did it. I did the lemon juice test on the sample they gave me and saw no change. Thakns for the additional information, all the knowledge has helped me greatly in making my countertop decision and hopefully this is the last hurtle in choosing a countertop that will make me happy for years to come. John, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear John: OK, here it goes: don't even consider for a split second to hire the fabricator that you defined as "seemed very knowledgeable". That guy does not have a clue. The resining process (which does not include any baking!) is done in the factories only with very porous "granites" in order to reduce their absorbency rate. Blue Pearl can't be resined because it won't take any resin in (the resin must go inside the stone, not on top of it). Blue Pearl, which is either a Larvikite (the lighter color) or ar an Anorthosite (Blue Pearl GT) typically doesn't need to be sealed. Of course, all the other fabricators told you tha they seal it all the time. But then again, they also believe that's granite! And besides, they have sealed their brains, too! After they've been thoroughly washed by the "salesmen", that is! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4043: I have some grey granite slabs, about 10" x 14", in lengths that vary from 4' to 8'. I want to cut one of the lengths into short pieces, about 14" long, to use as "legs" under a 4' piece (for a bench). I won't mind having a rather rough cut surface, but I don't want to make a complete mess. I have a diamond dry-cutting blade for my circular saw, and considered making a cut around the outside, then using a chisel to finish the cut. Would wooden wedges (perhaps pounded in, then soaked) bebetter? Any other advice? The stone came from a quarry in Elberton, GA. Thanks, Joe Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Joe: Phooooleeeese!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist
Q 4042: I have what I believe is a slate floor in the entry of my home which was built in 1967. Based on the condition of other parts of the house, I don't think it has been cared for properly. What is the proper care for a slate floor? Is there any way to "lighten up" or enhance the color of the floor? Thanks, Joan, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Joan: Rip it out. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4041: I need to decide between engineered and natural granite for my counter tops in a home we are having built. The builder suggests that I go with engineered and claims that it is more durable (doesn't scratch or stain), less maintenance (you don't have to seal or polish and can use any kind of cleaner on it), and less expensive then natural granite.I looked at several countertops, and have to say it is not at all like corian, which I don't find terribly attractive. The engineered granite I saw was so similar to the natural granite of the same color and pattern, it was difficult for me to tell the difference. Is this typical of engineered granite, or was that a fluke?
I am attracted by the idea of a durable product
that costs less then natural granite and is easy to maintain. However,
I don't want to put in something that is going to make a large difference
in resale value of the home. I know natural granite counters generally
adds quite a bit of value over corian. But have no idea how this new product
is looked upon as far as quality/resale value.
Any thought or opinions? Also, is there any difference between engineered
and cultured granite? Thank you, Jessica, Oct
24. Reply
R1: Dear Jessica: Well I really don't think that $5 or so less per square foot (if that much!) makes something like engineered stone "less expensive" then natural stone. Your builder information is wrong (what a surprise!) Egineered stone is not any more durable and it does scratch easier than "granite" (althoug it's still to be considered scratch resistent). Since the matrix of engineered stone is natural stone, the cleaning requirements are exactly the same as natural stone. As far as staining goes, there are lots of "granites" that won't stain and that won't need to be sealed. And yes, natural stone does add much more value to the estate than a miser 5 bucks a foot. Of course, the problem is how to select the right "granite". You GC is certainly not the right guy to do that! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4040: I will apreciate very much if you answer my question. My problem is that I installed a hone and fill saturnia rustic but the fill of the stone is dark pink and don't like me how it looks. I tested with many acid and alkaline chemical products with none result. What do you recommend to me to change the dark pink color to white or beige. Javier, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Javier: No way, Javier! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4039: Is there an "industry standard" specification for 12x12 or 18x18 size tiles that says tile should be the length and width dimension within a 1/16 or 1/8 inch and that the tile would be 1/2 or 3/8 inch thick...for commercial grade tile...thanks for any help or reference to industry guides etc. Jack, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Jack: To the best of my knowledge, no. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4038: Is it better to Float a wall with mortar/concrete or use a brand like Durarock for a shower? Thanks. Jeff Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Jeff: Either way, really. It much depends from the skills of the operator. Not many know how to float a wall properly. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert panelist
Q 4037: I have been searching through the web for and answer to what seems to be a basic question. I have found many conflicting answers. How do you clean mildew from the grout on a natural marble shower floor? I have found the following remedies: Peroxide, Rubbing Alcohol, Bleach, White Vinegar, Tilex, Tea Tree Oil, MB-9, etc. I believe in preventative medicine and wish to find a commercial product or "home-grown" solution which can be sprayed on daily and not rinsed. Please reply via email if you don't mind. Houston, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Houston: When it comes to natural stone there's seldom a home-brewed concoction that one can come up with. The mildew problem is most definitely one of the most glamorous instances. Of all the "wonderful" things you listed, only MB-9 was formulated to do the job without damaging the stone surface. To the best of my knowledge it's the only product of its kind on the market. It has to be rinsed, though. I always suggest to apply it 10 minutes before the first one takes a shower. In that way the rinsing will be automatic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4036: How do we treat marble stairways that are slipper when wet ? Henry, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Henry: There are special acid treatments available. The marble surface won't be shiny anymore, but it'll work. If you wish, I could do some research for you to find a supplier. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4035: How do I refinish a saturnia floor for a client. All traffic areas look very dirty. The house is very expensive and I do not want to rip out all these floors as they are throughout the house. Hpw can they be restored to their original state? Will all furniture have to be removed because of dust? Grossman, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Grossman: In which trade do you operate?! I hope you're not going to tell me that you're involved with stone, somehow!! Rip out the floor just because is not like it was when it was brand-new anymore?! Wow, some solution! Get hold of a professional stone restoration contractor to re-hone those floors (no, there won't be any dust). Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist
Q 4034: Our fireplace is surrounded in honed natural limestone. I am tired of the ugly yellow look and was wondering if the limestone could be stained a nice black/gray. Your site mentions the porosity of limestone, so this sounds like an easy DIY job for me. Is this possible? --Ginger, Oct 24. ReplyR1: Ginger. I have had clients use different solutions (tea, tobacco, etc) to stain a light crème colored limestone before sealing. This particular limestone is very porous, and we have even used water colors to paint relief carvings getting a great pastel color affect. However, all limestone is not the same, and if your surround is all ready sealed, or it is of a very compacted, low porosity stone, you probably wont have much success. This is one of these deals where you first need to test your chosen procedure on a scrap of stone or an out of the way area on the surround to see what the results are going to be before jumping in all the way. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Ginger: I've gotta tell ya that you almost got me for a second!! I appreciate good sense of humor and I can always use a good joke here and there! Thank you. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4033: I have a travertine floor new, and it was sealed with silox 8 3 coats. My grandson spilled Orange juice on it and i wiped it up immediately and washed with warm soapy water, but it has left a look of not polished so after much cleaning with just water and soap it remains the same. I resealed it 3 times and no change. Help, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Answering to the common interest part of your posting, what you're reporting goes to prove that:Q 4032: Could you tell me if it would be possible to get a solitary board with different stone marbles.What is the price ? Could you send it ? Sim, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4031: I want to replace my brick fireplace and hearth with Empire Blue Flagstone. It is just the front. It does not go all the way around. I can remove the brick. Can I install the flagstone myself and does anyone have any specific "How To's" I could use? Thanks. Debby, Oct 24. ReplyQ 4030: I'm looking to install Avanza countertops in my kitchen. This product is carried through our local Lowe's Home Improvement Store and is manufactured by US Stone. Does anyone have any information on this product and a timeline that I would be facing with measurement and installation. Paula, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4029: We are looking at monument for my fathers grave. We were told that different grades of granite are not as durable as others. Yet I read in a report from the U.S. Bureau of MInes that there is no data showing a difference in durabilty of any granite recognized as "monumental grade." What are the specifics? Mary , Oct 24. ReplyR1: Dear Mary: Like you said, there are no data available to answer your question. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear Mary, Just take a look around your local graveyard. My guess is you are unlikely to find any granite graves with anything but minor environmental damage no matter how old. Bryan UKQ 4028: We have an old table with an alabaster top which has been out in all weathers for several years. It has developed stains from dirt and moisture. What is the best way to clean off at least some of these darker stains. Thanks, Chris, Australia, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Chris from Down Under: Hire a professional stone restoration contractor. It's your only option. Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4027: I am a landscape architect working with the University of California Davis. We are working on a project that will use large slabs of stone for informal seating and a fountain. The project must use stone quarried and fabricated within 500 miles of Sacramento CA. We are looking for earth toned colors of granite or other stone, but have only been able to locate the Cold Springs Granite quarry in Raymond CA. This quarry only does white and black stone. Do you have an suggestions on stone quarries or sources. Best regards, Charles , Oct 24. Reply
Q 4026: Your inputs on this site have been very informative!!!I've purchased a travertine "Sunset" (I believe some call it Golden Senena(spelling?)...) to install in my master bath. It has a wave of gold and white through it, very beautiful for the Mediterranean look we are striving for. The tile is honed, filled, and polished 18''x18''. You said that travertine is not very absorbent but when I apply water to the "polished" surface the colors of the tile soon come out. Is my tile very porous and if so, should we reconsider a master shower install? I say "polished" because it does not look shiny unless the water is applied. Perhaps powdery from the fabrication?
I picked up a dozen tiles and noticed that there are some very small chips on the honed edges. Is this to be expected and will the grout help to hide? Some of the top fills also seem a little rough. Can the semi rough surface be polished up and the filled gaps smoothed out in the grouting process?
We want the colors to stand out. I would like to purchase a sealer from you that would enhance the stone's characteristics. Please let me know what you would recommend and how to purchase from you (I could not find a link at this site). Also to attain a high shine can the sealer help with this? Where can I get the MB-5 and MB-3 cleaners that you mentioned? Do you sell them?
Last question, should the tile be sealed prior to final polishing / cleaning? I read on a web site that recommended sealing the stone tile top prior to grouting (being careful to not get in grout cracks) to prevent grout color leakage on top of the stone. Recommended?
Thanks for your time and Best Regards,- Larry, Oct
24. Reply
Q
4025: We are having tumbled
stone installed for our kitchen backsplash. Any problems if they are installed
butted against each other or should a small spacing for the grout be left
between the 4" square tiles. Should sanded or unsanded grout be used.
What treatment should be given after the istallation so that the grout and
tiles won't stain with oil or vapors from cooking. Juan, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4024: Recently I have had several bids for travertine installation from different contractors. Some say that wire lathe is the best installation method on my kitchen floor because of a 3/4" high spot in the kitchen nook area. There is a 4'x2' corner in the kitchen nook area that is concrete (kitchen dimensions are 12'X17' with island and cabinets already installed). The rest of the floor is a raised foundation that consists of 1"x5" planks and 5/8" plywood on top of that. Others have said that 1/4 or 1/2" wonderboard or backerboard is just fine. These people said they would just float up to the high spot in the corner by using mastic or thinset underneath the wonderboard. My main concern is cracking. I am not too concerned with uneven tile as much as I am having the tile crack at the wonderboard seams. Which method is preferred? Has anyone experienced travertine cracking due to non-flat wonderboard installations? Any help would be appreciated. Alien, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Alien (where are you from, Mars or somethin' :-)): I like the second solution much better. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4023: Maurizio we are in the process of looking at slate for a shower. The slate is from China and the various colors are gorgeous. We would like some advice about using Color Enhancer to bring out the natural color and than using a sealer to help reduce some of the problems that may result from using slate in a shower. Is it advisable to use a color enhancer first, let it cure and then go with a sealer? Charity, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Charity: Yes, that's what you have to do. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4022: My son recently purchased a coffee table with a hexagonal slate top. The slate is a dark charcoal gray, is very rough-surfaced and is sealed. There are some round light gray stains and a few scratches in the slate. What is the best was to return the top to a uniform color. He has tried to clean it with tri-sodium phosphate and other "home made" cleaners, with no avail. Do we need to strip the top and reseal? Ed, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4021: Can you help resolve our marketing problems with Pennsylvania Flagstone? Anxious, Joshua, Oct 24. ReplyQ 4020: I'm bidding a construction clean-up in a retail space and they have a limestone floor which looks like it was finished with something other than a penetrating sealer and it has some scratches in it and the specs call for the floor to be clean and looking new is there anything I can do to get this floor looking new without doing a major job on it. Please get back to me as soon as possible because they want the bid in right away.Bob, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Bob: Just forget about it, you can't do it. It's way out of your league! Your only option is to sub-let the job to a professional stone restorarion contractor. Whether the job is major or not is not up to you, or the maintenance manager, or the owner of the building to decide. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PanelistQ
4019: We have a new residential
villa with the entire exterior tiled with natural brown stone which I was
told is of limestone family.
We would like to protect the same with some kind of protective and transparent
coating from becoming stained and decolourized. It is noticed that wherever
there is water spray (from irrigation sprinklers) the colour of the stone
has changed.
Can you suggest name of some good coating material and their source? Borah,
Oct 24. Reply
R1:
Dear Carolyn: I wrote a very
interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when
it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from
several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist
R1:
Dear Carolyn: Are you sure
that there's nothing else you want to know?! Don't you think it should be
fair for you to ask those "few questions" to the fabricator who
eventually is going to make money out of you? And if they are not expert
enough to answer those questions for you, can you think of any good reason
why anybody else should spend the considerable amount of time (not to mention
the skills) necessary to make such an in-depth research for you for free?
If you can come up with a convincing answer to my latter question, then,
maybe, I'll help you out. If not, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R1:
Dear Betsy: Which goes to prove three important issues:
1. That sealing marble is a totally useless practice that doesn't do squat
to protect it from its only real "enemy", pH active chemicals.
2. That the dealer and contractor who sold the marble to you don't know
the first thing about its proper maintenance (as usual!)
3. That the dealer and contractor you've been dealing with gave you so much
intelligence about stone, that now you don't even know what you're looking
at and what to do with it! You don't need to replace your vanity top. It
can be easily repaired, but it is not a DIYer project by a long shot. You'll
need the services of a professional stone refinisher. Now, be very, VERY
cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks
out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop
for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all
the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. For
your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get
my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations.
Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you
can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another
statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R1: Dear Barb: Unfortunately, without seeing it, I haven't gotten a clue! I honestly never heard about such a thing! What did your fabricator say to you? I am honestly interested. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4014: How do you clean hard water stains from fixtures and glass shower doors in a marble shower without damaging the marble? Austin, Oct 24. ReplyQ 4013: What do you think about using Raw Silk Ivory as a large kitchen island? Would it be too porous and stain easily? My top three choices are Shavakashi Light, Ghilbi and Raw Silk Ivory for the kitchen island and I need to make a decision very soon, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4012: I chipped the edge of the granite top around the sink area with a skillet. The chip looks like a piece of the stone came off when hit. The size is about a half of an inch but only 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep. The granite has been finished with a flat edge and only slightly rounded at the top. The sink is undemounted. Is there a way it can be sanded down and repolished. Do you have any recommendations? Oct 24. ReplyQ 4011: My breccia oniciata vanity top has become dull. I think my cleaning people may have used some harmful chemicals on it recently. It is 18 years old, and I don't know if it ever had a sealer on it. What can I do or use to bring back the shine. I was wondering if I could use a paste wax on it, or sealer. Thank you for your help. Al, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Al: Marble is polished by abrasion and friction, like jemstone, not by applying some sort of wax onto it and buffing it up. Your stone was never sealed, because it never needed to be sealed. Get hold a good professional stone restoration contractor to have you 18 years hold vanity top refinished properly. Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4010: You are very kind to help people. I have an office building with approximately 50 people working in it. I would like to put down a durable attractive surface that is not SLIIPERY WHEN WET. I was hoping you could give me some ideas. Preferably in a bright color, ie not what I have seen so far in slate.Granite looks terrific , but I am paranoid about someone slipping and busting their ass , then suing mine. Mitchell, Oct 24. Reply
R1: Dear Mitchell, Yours is an easy one to answer. All you need is a granite that has been bright-etched, sand-blasted or exfoliated. All have the appropriate slip resistance. Your choice of colour will have a bearing on the brightness and spaciousness of the area that you want to renovate. If you want any assistance picking a colour and choosing the right finish for the best price keep in touch. Dr. Hans, Expert PanelistQ 4009: A client wants to hang a random slab of marble from the ceiling in their shop can you suggest any safe systems for this - the slab will not be backing onto a wall. I would appreciate your help ASAP. Adam, Oct 24. Reply
Q 4008: I am trying to find information about using granite as a baking stone. What do I need to know about which stone would be best? I've been told to look for a stone called "Ipanema" but have no idea what this means or why I should look for it. Any advice? Leonore, Oct 23. ReplyQ 4007: I had just insatalled a granite stone on my kitchen counter top . I have a stain most likely it is oil stain how do I get rid of it . Is this going to be a problem for me as I cook a lot especially Asian style cooking. I have Beta Rosa granite stone . Please advice. Thanks, Moitry, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Moitry: It looks like your stone was not sealed properly. But before you do that, you must remove the stains you have now! When it comes to stain removal, I'm very much against the very expensive - yet of little practical value -- "professional poulticing kits" (that no true professional ever uses!...) available at stone retail outlets. I wrote a very comprehensive paper about stain removal, with all sorts of guidelines and home remedies. To get it, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4006: How can i remove a rust stain from a bathroom vanity top? Nora, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Nora: When it comes to stain removal, I'm very much against the incredibly expensive "professional poulticing kits" available at stone retail outlets (and that no true professional ever uses!...) I wrote a very comprehensive paper about stain removal, with all sorts of guidelines and home remedies. To get it, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should beginQ 4005: I'm in the process of putting down a new travertine floor going out to the pool. We live in Florida and on the Gulf waters. Do I need to seal this new floor or not? Thanks Doug, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Doug: Well, yes, absolutely, positively, you should seal it! But the only sealer suitable for the purpose is the very same that the Ancient Romans used to seal the Coliseum. It looks like it worked!! Maybe you can find a site on the internet that reveals that long-lost, deep-dark secret!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 4004: Do you have any information about Green Marinache Granite? We are thinking about purchasing this particular one. We will have light cherry cabinets. Thanks. Richard, Oct 23. Reply
Q 4003: I just came across your advice page while looking for a maintenance cleaner (once a week or as needed) for my new countertop. It's Peacock Green "granite" - a kind of medium homogenous matrix, no veins, but not a tight pattern like a "Tweed." We haven't started using it yet, so any care tips or products you could recommend that would help us keep it as great-looking as it is now would be really appreciated. Thanks. Rick, Oct 23. ReplyR1:
Dear Rick: I take it that your fabricator were not
very convincing with their recommendations! What did they tell you, to use
"Windex" or water and dish soap?! ... (By the way, I hope they
didn't seal your Verde Peacock!) You have very good resons to be concerned,
because when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you
can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another
statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R1:
Dear Dan: Get real, will you! You need special power
tools (that can't be rented) and very expensive blades (one blade alone
is more expensive than paying a pro do the job for you!), not to mention
the necessary skill. Just forget about it! :-)
Now the question is: Do you know how to select the right "granite"
for your kitchen? I don't have to try to "sell" you anything:
this very site is soaked with the tears of people who didn't do their homework
before selecting the right type of "granite"!
Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too
important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select
it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4001: I just installed new marble, but I want to give it a final polish with a buffer, need to know what product to use? Robert, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Robert: Why should anybody feel like "give it a final polish" to brand new marble? Is it perhaps because you've seen marbles shiner than yours? If that's the case I've got news for you: no two marbles polish the same! Marble (like any other polishable stone) is polished by abrasion and friction, like jemstone, not by putting some sort of wax onto it and buffing it up. The polish that the factory produces is pretty much a "final polish" and, in most instances, the highest possible. Besides, stone polishing is an art that represents the very pinnacle of all stone related activities. It's for proven professionals only. You'd better concern yourself with the proper maintenance of your stone.Q 4000: What is the best method of installing Granite? I have seen some that put strips of wood down before the Granite and others put a board surface down and then put the Granite down. We are thinking about putting Granite on our Kitchen counter top. I would like to have some one that can do a good job and do it the right way. I have seen some jobs that the seams do not look very good. I would appreciate your answers to these questions. Thanks. Russell, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Russel: The key factor in the whole picture is the fabricator. I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 3099: The marble we bought for our bathroom has imperfections and my husband would like to seal it. Is there a way we can put a sealer on the marble and what can we use? Shari, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Shari: What kind of "imperfections" are you talking about? What kind of a sealer has your hubby in mind? I'm pretty confused! Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 3098: Hi, we have about 2232 square feet of concrete decking around our in ground pool all of which is inside a screen room it is over 10 years old now, and about 50% is under cover . the original concrete had a light cream color added to the mix when laid ,which looks good when it has just been power or chemically washed. However we live in north Florida where we have a lot of sun and rain during the summer and it seems like I am always cleaning the deck to keep it looking good and to stop the mildew, I tried painting the under cover area which has helped the mildew a bit but it still seems to be constantly dirty looking. Can you suggest anything we could do to cover the deck which would look good be non slip and low maintenance, which would not cost us a fortune ? any suggestions are welcome. Sheila, Oct 23. Reply
Q 3097: I am a South African and a friend from China has asked me to make enquiries about a marble called 'Indian Red' that is only produced in South Africa. My searches so far, including your site have revealed that no such South African marble is produced. In fact, according to your site no marble is produced in South Africa. I would just like to verify with you that it is accurate that no marble is produced in South Africa? He may perhaps have been confused with 'African Red' the granite. Do you know offhand of a marble called 'Indian Red'? Steven, Oct 23. Reply Q 3096: I bought a pool table from a friend of mine and i was wondering if there is a secret to filling in the screw holes with wax, filling the seams with wax (three piece slate), and putting the felt back on. if I could get some instruction on these matters it would be much appreciated. Thanks.Tim, Oct 23. ReplyQ 3095: What is the proper way to attach a granite table top to a pedestal base? T.L. Minor, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear T.L. Minor: A few beads of silicon glue. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 3094: We wonder if you can help?We have unearthed a sandstone floor in our utility room which for over 100 years has been covered with linoleum.The floor is in excellent condition having had two layers of lino and two carpets covering it for most of its life but there is a large amount of old glue spread all over giving it an abnormal appearance.Could anyone recommend a safe way of removing the glue.We are willing to use elbow grease if necessary! All suggestions would be most appreciated. Ann, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Ann: If the glue is still tacky you can try to remove it with acetone. If it's hard and dry, remove the worst with a professionals scraping tool and the rest with Methylene Chloride. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 3093: How do you get white bleach spots off of a non-sealed black slate table top? The bleach bottle left huge white spots where it was sitting? Doesnt wash off. My boss is very upset, Vince, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Vince: Well, the only good thing in this picture is that it happened to your bossQ 3092: My wife and I had settled on Giallo Veneziano in our family room and I called in an installer yesterday. He did a good job trying to sell Turkish travertine and downplayed Giallo's virtues. Furthermore, my wife was disconforted by this remark you had made in one of your earlier postings re: Giallo Veneziano ("Giallo Veneziano" is traded as granite (yeah, right!). It's rather absorbent and will require some serious sealing before using it. I don't know "Pocono Green", but the other two stones you've listed are a much better choice than "Giallo Veneziano" from a maintenance point of view. They are both much denser and require no sealing at all. Maurizio, USA Anyways, this is a low traffic area and we can impregnate w/ sealer if necessary. Is this still a bad choice ?, Vishwanth, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Vishwanth: A familiy room a "low traffic area"? If that's you're case, then you're all right, I guess. I would seal. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 3091: I have an antique chest with a marble top. The marble is broken and I would like to know the proper way to repair it. thanks, Wanda, Oct 23. Reply
R1: Dear Wanda: The proper way to repair your broken furniture top is to use the telephone! With that you can call a professional stone restoration contractor to do the job for you! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 2924: I was wondering if you had any luck inquiring about the monument business? Could you give me any advice or direction from your own experience. Right now I'm just trying to get started by engraving brick. A friend offered a rather large fund raising project if I want it. I have only been able to find a couple of web sites that offer a limited amount of advice. I'm an Allstate agent looking for a change! Dean, Oct 9, Reply
Q 2921: I have a problem that i've been trying to get advice for but so far i haven't had any luck in doing so. mabey you can help. on every job i've been installing, no matter how good i glue it down or nor matter how good i shim it up the seam always seems to separate causing the homeowner to complain about the feeling it. i've tried flowing akemi[didn't work} and i've tried everything else except notching the joint. i haven't tried this approach yet because it wouldn't look good. do you have any suggestions? the customers are getting mad, i need help!!!!, Clilic,Oct 9, ReplyQ 2847: Interested in the marketing research of the Stone Industry. What do I need to do to acquire this info.Michael, Oct 4, Reply
Q 3090: We have a problem with our sanstone tiled floor. In 2 areas (entry hall and living room)we have obvious cracking (LR - 7 feet long, Entry - 2 feet long) even though the tiles (30cm x 30cm) were laid on a flexible adhesive. The cracks are caused by cracking in our cement slab which we discovered when we had the carpet in adjacent rooms replaced. Is there any way to repair these cracks? I thought of rubbing in a paste of matching colour grout then sanding and resealing but looking at other questions and answers on this site it seems that there are epoxy (resin?) types of fillers available. Is this suitable for sandstone and if so are these products available in Australia. Thankyou in advance for your advice, Tracey, South Australia.Oct 22.