| Q 8468:
We just had granite countertops installed
in our kitchen and noticed a lot of small fissures. These are all
over the countertops approximately every inch. Is mystic brown characteristic
of lots of fissures or could it be that the granite was not polished
correctly? The fissures are much more noticeable on the countertop
than we noticed in the warehouse where we picked out the slabs or
in the samples. Although, looking closer at the small sample now we
can see about the same density of fissures. Any insight you can provide
will be appreciated. Thanks. John, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John: Mystic Brown has indeed the small fissures you’re
reporting, and so do many other mercantile granites. The polishing
of the slab has absolutely nothing to do with the texture of the stone.
Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8467:
I saw your responses to inquiries on
granite on the web. I am hoping you can help me understand what may
be the problem with my Tropical Brown granite. It was installed over
two weeks ago. The kitchen is being used and I notice small spots
that I can't remove. My husband feels that it is part of the stone
but it is bothering me because the spots are visible when you look
at it in certain angles. Do I need to be concerned or is it something
I will have to get used to? What do you think? Isabel, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Isabel: I wish I could help you, but I have not the faintest
idea of what you’re talking about. Could you be more descriptive
about this small spots? Do
they follow a certain specific pattern of the stone, or are they just
random? How small are they? There
are indeed small dull spots over the texture of many mercantile granites
and that could be just it. Without actually seeing them, however,
it would be plain guesswork. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8466:
We are looking a various granites for
kitchen counters and have rencetly seen at only one stoneyard a stone
called "Ice Pearl" -- it is a pale grey with dark grey and
black streaks and accented by both small and exceptionally large blue
spectrolite. I have not been able to find any information about this
stone. The stoneyard says the think it is from Norway or Madagascar,
otherwise they can't tell me anything else. What can you tell me about
"Ice Pearl" and its suitability as a kitchen counter top?
What type of stone is it and what are its properties so that I can
research it further? Thank you SO much for your expertise. DMS, Reply |
| R1:
Dear DMS: I’ve heard of that stone in a couple of occasions,
but I never even saw it. It must be some new “granite” that
just came to market. As for its suitability, a few basic tests that
you can run by yourself will tell you. In
your posting there’s a sentence that bothers me a bit, however:
“We are
looking a various granites for kitchen counters” If
you allow me to say so, and considering your prizes about the educational
value of this site, I believe that you’re starting your “granite
adventure” with the wrong foot! I
hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to
say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an
industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8465:
We just had New Venetian Gold Dark
installed as our kitchen counter. I noticed during the installation
process that they were “sanding” down the seam area and
it left a white powdery residue along with ring like markings from
the sanding. After the granite was sealed, the powdery look was 90%
gone, but the dull sanding marks are still there. Do we have a granite
that should not have been sealed and will more polishing get the dullness
out? Winnie, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Winnie: And “Michelangelo” strikes again! … Man,
that guy never misses!! Whether or not your “granite” needed
to be sealed, it all depends on whether or not the slab it was made
from had been resined by the factory. If so, then it may not need
to be sealed. If not it did. However,
the sealing issue has absolutely nothing to do with the mess that
“Michelangelo” made with your seams. That is only craftsmanship
– better said, total lack thereof! Can
it be fixed to complete satisfaction? Indeed it can, but it doesn’t
take “more polishing”: It takes a craftsperson who knows
what is doing! Look
in your local Yellow Pages under the heading: “Marble & Terrazzo
Cleaning” and inquire with the stone restoration contractors
listed in there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8464:
Do granite countertops have to be sealed.
I am installing waterfall green light. How porous is it and is it
high maintance relative to the average granite like butterfly blue?
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Hamida: How did you get to the conclusion of defining Butterfly
Blue as “average granite”?!:-) Joking
aside, “Waterfall Green Light” is as stone that would require
the application of a good-quality stone impregnating sealer like MB-4,
but in most instances the slabs of that material get resined by the
factory and, consequently, they may not need to be sealed. Only some
basic testing will tell you. However,
remember that a stone never made anybody happy or unhappy. The people
who handle it did and counting! I
hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to
say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an
industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8463:
Over a month ago we had a “Tan
Brown Granite” tile countertop installed. It is a very dark brown
color with areas of lighter reddish brown. The installer sealed it
with Miracle 511 Impregnator. I tried various products to use when
cleaning it but was unable to settle on one I liked because I gradually
noticed there was always this ugly blue/ grey film on the top of it.
If you ran your finger over it, it left clear finger prints. This
is especially noticeable in sunlight. Since I have a young child this
is really a hassle. I noticed that when I touched the original granite
sample there was no such problem. Therefore I called the company that
made the sealer and they recommended that first I use Mineral Spirits
to get rid of the excess sealer that was supposedly causing this problem.
I did this a few times without dramatic results. Then they had me
try “Miracle Counter Kleen” for Stone tile (including granite).
I’m still having the same problem. I would really appreciate
your advice. Thank you so much for your time! Jen O’Day, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jen: The last thing that you needed to do was applying an impregnating
sealer to your Tan Brown! Due to the inherent density of that particular
stone (Charnockite), not one iota of the sealer ever impregnated it
(went inside it, that is). Now you have a nasty film of the stuff
that its own manufacturer doesn’t know how to handle in any other
way other than to keep selling you some of their other products that
turn out to be totally useless at solving your problem. I
know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for
you, which – I promise – does not involve buying any of
my products! :-) I
also know that your installer is the sole cause of your problem. Considering
the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair
that you give them a chance to rectify the situation.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8462:
Recently our flagstone foyer floor
was scratched while moving furniture. Is there a way to remove scratches
from flagstone? The flagstones are dark colors- blue, burgundy etc.
Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Elizabeth,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Elisabeth: The term flagstone only indicates the random natural
shape that any given stone is cut into, not the stone itself. It is
also called “field stone”. Therefore, without knowing what
kind of stone you actually have, I can’t answer your question.
What I can tell you as a rule of thumb is that if the stone has a
smooth perfectly flat finish, then the answer would be, yes, you can
remove the scratches, but if if instead it has a textured finish (natural
cleft), such as slate, bluestone, etc., then the answer would be,
no. You could hide them by applying a good-quality stone color enhancer
like my outlandish MB-6, though! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8461:
I just pupt Giallo Veneziano countertops.
I didn't do the lemon juice test. The fabricator after installing
sealed the stone. Is giallo veneziano a stone that has to be sealed?
If so how often? Now my other question is can clean with windex? If
not what else can I use? Thanks your response is appreciated. Marco,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Marco: Is giallo veneziano a stone that has to be sealed?”
If the slab in natural, then yes, it does need to be sealed and very
much so. If the slab had been resined instead (by the factory) then
most likely it won’t. If so how often? The
frequency of the application of an impregnating depends on the make
of the product used. It may require to be applied every year, or –
like in the case of my outlandish MB-4 – every 10 years. This
assuming that your stone needs to be sealed at all, that is. “Is
giallo veneziano a granite or is it a mix?” If
by “mix” you mean some sort of manmade material, the answer
is, no. It is indeed natural stone. However, it is not granite, it’s
gneiss. The fabricator told me I can use Windex to clean, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8460:
I recently moved in my new house,the
granite tops are installed to the cabinets with regular Liquid Nails.
Now I have learned that it will stain the tops.Next the overhang on
the sink is 3/8",my sink is a Kindred unequal bowl undermount
which comes with a mirror finish on top.The granite that overhangs
the sink is not polished or is sealed and they did not use the mounting
brackets provided by Kindred, I was told that was Industry standards
is this true John Beaty Phoenix,Az Reply. |
R1:
Dear John: “Liquid Nails” was certainly not the product
to use, but if it didn’t stain so far, it probably never will.
Let’s just say that you were lucky! The industry standards clearly
indicate that under mount sinks should be supported with proper brackets.
The ones supplied by the manufacturer of the sink are always the best.
This and the rest of your report, seems to indicate that you had a
close encounter with “Michelangelo” :-(
Demand that they rectify the situation to industry standards (not
THEIR OWN industry standards!) and your own satisfaction. Now remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day
out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and
it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many
of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8459:
We are distributors and fabricators
of engineered stones, similar to Silestone, Okite We are encountering
several problems with cracks appearing several months after the top
has been installed. Mostly developing near the cook top or on angular
table pieces. No one seems to know exactly why these are happening,
not even our suppliers. Do you have any information about such difficulties?
Joseph, Reply |
R1:
Dear Joseph: I do know that when a granite countertop cracks is almost
always fault of the installer. Does this apply to engineered stone,
too? I have no idea, honestly. I never got the opportunity to familiarize
with such material to the point of being intelligent enough and venture
and answer for you.
What I do notice, however, is that the more of the material gets processed
and installed, the more problems emerge, thus casting a serious shadow
of doubt on the big claims of “bullet-proof” material that
the promoters of engineered stone have been extolling all along. And
now, they don’t even know how to solve their own problems and
prompt one of their fabricator to inquire with natural stone people!
… Tsk, tsk, tsk! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8458:
I am looking for some material to feel
some small damage to marbel. In some of the veins parts of the stone
is breaking out and needs feeling. Can you recommend anything. Thank
you very much. ALI, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ali: The only suitable material would be color-matching epoxy
glue. Not only is it hard to get and difficult to handle, but the
filling would be just the beginning of the project. In fact, once
the filler is cured, the whole surface of your stone will have to
be re-ground, honed and polished. Your only option is to hire a bona
fide stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8457:
I have been researching granite problems
as I have a doozy. My granite countertop has cracked in 3 places,
either side of the glass cooktop ( about 12" away) and a separate
piece over the dishwasher. It is called Brazilian Black and is very
black with fine, deep silver mottling. I love the granite, but the
installer/distributor was unable to color the white, deep cracks that
go from about 6" long to the edge. (reg. flat edge, not bullnose
or such)
Shouldn't they just replace all the granite as it may be a "bad
batch"? Does this happen often? The counter cracked at 5mos old,
7 mos. and 1 yr 3 mos. Thanks for any help. Yours, Susan, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: Shouldn't they just replace all the granite Indeed they
should. But what’s the point? Unless they learned how to install
granite countertops, chances are that it’s going to crack again.
as it may be a "bad batch" That’s
the whole point. Stone (bad batch or not) doesn’t crack by itself,
and unless you have a serious earthquake in your area, cracking is
always the consequence of a poor install. The bad batch is most likely
your fabricator. Does
this happen often? All
the times: every time one hires Michelangelo to fabricate and install
their granite countertops. Let’s
make no mistakes, the majority of fabricator are anywhere between
excellent, very good, good and barely decent; yet the percentage of
“Michelangelos is still pretty high. That is why I always insist
in saying that when shopping for natural stone product one should
start from the fabricator, not the stone! Back
to your case, you do have a case! Try to solve the matter amicably
and, if that won’t work, have your attorney write them a nice
letter. Many a time vinegar works better than honey at catching flies!!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8456:
I need a light-colored granite to harmonize
with the existing decor in my kitchen. The stones that I am currently
considering are New Venetian Gold, Carioca Gold, and Santa Cecilia.
I know that light-colored granites are more porous and need to be
sealed (It seems that standard practice in my area is to apply two
coats of sealer). I also know that some people do not consider these
stones to be true "granite." I have several questions: (1)
What is the difference, if any, in quality and maintenance between
New Venetian Gold and the similar-looking stone, Santa Cecilia?, (2)
How does Carioca Gold compare to the other two stones?, (3) Which
is the best in your opinion?, and (4) Can you recommend another light-colored
"granite" that is more durable and less high-maintenance
than either of my three choices? Thanks in advance for your answers!
-- Carolyn Boulder, Reply |
R1:
Dear Carolyn: The “some people” who do not consider
the stones you listed as granite are geologists. All of them –
bar none. Those instead who insist that they are granite are “salesmen”.
That was just to set the record straight! :)
“I know that light-colored granites are more porous and need
to be sealed” No,
you don’t! Many
slabs of the materials you listed get resined by the factory and,
consequently, most likely they will not need to be sealed. Only the
lemon juice (and oil) test will tell you for sure.
“It seems that standard practice in my area is to apply two coats
of sealer”
Standard practices never apply to natural stone! IF the stone needs
to be sealed at all, the number of applications is dependent on the
make of the sealer and they way it will react to any given particular
stone.
“What is the difference, if any, in quality and maintenance between
New Venetian Gold and the similar-looking stone, Santa Cecilia?”
The difference in quality depends exclusively on the grading of the
slabs, not the stone itself. Once properly fabricated and installed,
they are pretty much the same, if the grading is the same.
“Which is the best
in your opinion?” The
best fabricator! And this answers also your questions 2) and 4).
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that
like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you
that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone
itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In
an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8455:
I have just put a Ceaser stone top
on my kitchen counter. I was told that there are dimensional limits
on the length of the slab and that I should not put the seam in the
section of the counter in the area of the sink, because everytime
we would turn on the disposal, it would put additional pressure on
the seam itself. . Since the color is a forest
green, there seems to be a white line where the sections meet do you
have any suggestions about darkening that area so that there would
not be that much of a contrast between the thin white sean and the
dark green color of the rst of the counter? Bernice, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bernice: Unfortunately none of us here know much about engineered
stone. However, since their promoters insist on the idea that it is
such a superior product over granite, I’m sure that they will
be able to solve your problem even before you finish asking your question.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8454:
The stone slabs I'm interested in using.
First is known as Verde Fuoco/Harlequin from Australia. I recently
noticed "warnings" on some stoneyard websites regarding
this stone. Does it fade,shatter, pit, crack? Is it exceptionally
soft? Is it even granite? What should I be aware of? We'd need to
triple bullnose the edges.We plan to use it as a bathtub surround
and as lav countertop in a second (guest) bathroom. Second, I have
seen Jurassic Green/Verde Jurassic/Verde Marinace
(Brazil= source) in several color ranges. Looks like small and medium
rounded multi sized pebbles and gravels in a conglomerate. Some stone
slabs are mostly avocado and yellowish greens with burgundy and rose
accents, some are mostly burgundy and rose with grey accents, and
some slabs are azure/teal with rust and terracotta pebble accents.
I am
interested in the azure/ teal color range. Is there another name for
the slabs of azure/teal predominant? Which is the "real"
Verde Jurassic or Marinace? Third, what can you tell me about the
stone slab sold as "Black Beauty" granite? Would using this
material as bathtub surrounds and lav counters be encouraged? Where
is this stone from? Sorry for so many questions. I'm like a kid in
a candy shop. Love so many different stones! Sincerely, Anne in NoHo,
CA, Reply |
R1:
Dear Anne: Is there such a place as NoHo in California?? :-) Coming
to your questions now.
Well, you see, a kid in a candy store is all excited and doesn’t
know what to buy with his 25 cents. Most likely the kid will ask advice
to the shop-keepers for two obvious reasons: 1) They sell candies;
therefore they’re expected to know about them. 2) They are the
ones that will end up getting the quarter!
Now, I’m sorry to disappoint you, but you don’t really expect
me to go gratis into an in-depth analysis of all the stones you listed,
so that someone else who doesn’t know much about what they’re
selling (obviously, or else you would trust them and leave me alone)
is going to smile all the way to the bank with a few $ thous of your
hard-earned money in their pocket, do you?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8453:
Hello - I am trying to get some solid
answers about the new countertop I had installed last week. It's a
light stone called "Medalia Gold" - or is it Madera Gold?
-- It was supposedly sealed twice in the shop - but water was being
absorbed. After I questioned him, the owner sent over someone with
a product called K-32. He swiped it on the counter and told me to
do this twice more. The color is lovely and lively looking - but I
noticed some brown spots - like leopard spots - (not the black or
swirls of whitish color) - that I swear were not part of the stone
itself originally. I may not have noticed them before this - but I'm
wondering if you are familiar with this type of granite? I'm afraid
to try the lemon test since the granite is already laid down.
Thanks so much for whatever help - and assurance! - you can give.
All Best, Kate Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kate: I am quite familiar with Madura Gold and I can confirm
that’s a very absorbent stone. I never heard of the particular
sealer that was given to you; therefore I can’t anticipate how
many applications you will have to make to your countertop before
you can say it’s sealed. You’re just going to keep on sealing,
making sure that you remove every residue of the product off of the
stone surface [b]before[/b] it has a chance to dry, and waiting at
least 24 hours in between applications. I can’t comment on the
mysterious brown spots that you’re reporting about. You don’t
even know for sure yourself if they were there or not. As for the
lemon juice (and oil) test, it is supposed to be run during the shopping
phase to determine the suitability of the “granites” one
is considering, as it is extensively explained in the article on “How
to Shop for Granite Countertop, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8452:
I had Grey Indian Slate installed on
my patio. The builder says that they sealed the slate. There are several
areas on the tiles that appear rusty or like copper. It appears on
rough edges of the slate. I don't know whether it is best to use a
water base or oil base sealer. I don't know how often to seal the
slate. I appreciate any help that you can give me. Thank you. Tracy,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Tracy: Yes, you’re right: there are a few things that you
don’t know about slate, the most important of which is that you
should have never bought it for your project!
And now you relay on some sealer of sort that’s gotta to be out
there, some “miracle-in-a-bottle” you’re dreaming about
that will solve that problem and your brother-in-law’s ingrown
toenails, too!
It’s called “Snake-oil” and it’s available at
any country fair across the country! Unfortunately, although my specialty
product line for maintenance of natural stone is among the most comprehensive
on the market, I don’t make such an outlandish product.
However, you don’t have to despair. Go back to the merchants
who sold the slate to you and demand them to solve the problem. If
they sell it, they sure know everything about it and then some, I’m
sure!
You may have to wait for a little while on line because they are very
busy selling it, you know … but it’s gonna happen …
it’s going to be any day now … any day …
I hope that you didn’t take my above comment personal. I’m
just upset as you are by hearing your story, and that’s the way
I expressed my rage toward the unscrupulous merchants (or just plain
ignorant: take you pick. Same difference in my book!) who sold that
material to you without warning you of its potential drawback. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8451:
What can you tell me about a Quartzite
stone called “Volakas White?” I want to use it on my countertops
but cannot find anything about it on the web. I was told that it is
made in Greece but I only see information about Greek marble. Reply |
R1:
Dear Alexandra: I never even heard of that particular stone. However,
generally speaking, quartzite is extremely porous. There’s not
a precise separation line between quartzite and certain sandstone.
I would be very leery to use that as kitchen countertop, but you could
run a few tests to find out. Most importantly …
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8450:
I recently purchased a Travertine dining
room table with a crack in the surface. What should I use to fill
the cracks and then put the shiny finish back on? Any help would be
appreciated. Thank you, John, Reply |
R1:
Dear John: WHAT you should be using to fill your crack is only academic,
because the real important question is WHO should be using it! And
the answer to that does not include you, alas!! :)
It is not, by far, a DIY project. :-( And remember, once the job is
done, you will need some of my amazing MB-5 and outlandish MB-13 to
take good care your table top! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8449:
We just closed on our new home. It
has Saturnia floors which were supposedly sealed with Mircle Sealants
511 Plus sealant. We spilled grapefruit juice on it, but immediately
cleaned it up, washed it with water and dryed. The spill left stain
marks on the finish. The installer says that it will have to be buffed
out and that there is nothing that will seal it better than what he
used. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave, Reply |
R1:
Dear Dave: Like the name of the product you mentioned says, it’s
formulated for very porous stones, which is certainly not the case
with Saturnia. The same company makes a different sealer for regular
density stone, and that is what your contractor should have used instead.
Regardless, what you have are not stains at all, no matter what they
look like. They are in fact water stains acid etching, that is, (actual
surface damages) and only a stone restoration professional could remove
them by re-honing your stone surface. Having
said that I encourage you to read an answer that I gave to another
inquirer a couple of days ago on the subject of sealing onj a different
forum. Dear Mr. Bill:
David is correct. [A colleague already answered the query]
Further elaborating the concept, the most important phase of the application
of a sealer for stone is to make sure that every bit of any residue
of the product is removed from the surface of the stone before it
has a chance to dry.
In other words, a sealer for stone is strictly a below-surface product
and any residue left on the surface wouldn't have any function other
than creating an ugly and difficult-to-remove mess.
The ONLY function of a sealer for stone is to reduce its absorbency
rate, which in many cases is not even necessary.
The use of the word "sealer" is deceiving, while technically
correct. In fact, people perceive the performance of a sealer (in
general) like a topical armor that will envelop whatever material
one wants to seal in a "bullet-proof" cocoon.
Sealers for stone will do anything but that!
Their function is quite limited, for they offer no protection whatever
to the surface of the stone and can't do anything about certain popular
surface damages, such as "water staining" (acid etching,
that is) typical to all calcite-based stone, such as marble, onyx,
travertine, limestone, etc.
If one looks at the problems plaguing the stone industry, stain prevention
- which is the only issue tackled by a sealer for stone - should not
represent more than the 2% (if that much!) of the overall picture.
Yet, everybody and his brother are selling sealers like there's no
tomorrow!
Why?
Because it's an easy (and quite profitable!) sale due to the "magic"
within the word "sealer". Give that to a bunch of "salesmen"
and they will create a marketing monster!
They did, in fact!
Although I am the manufacturer of arguably one of the best impregnating
sealers on the market, I consider them as the most over-rated, over-promoted
and over-applied products in humankind history!
Any problem with that, besides the thinning of the consumers' wallet,
their dashed hopes of a performance that just does not exist, and
the display of monumental specific ignorance and "salesmanship"
from the promoters of the "sealing cult"?
Yes: over-application - which is the consequence of ignorance - leads
to ill-application. In fact, the solution of a small problem (stain
prevention) lead the the creation of another problem: consequence
of over-application of sealers. Such problem did not exist before
"the new religion" and is more difficult to solve than the
occasional removal of a stain! (Do read the FREE article about the
subject of "Sealing everything in sight" in the Helpful
Hints section of our website.)
Well, we can't expect anything intelligent coming from "keeping
things simple through ignorance", can we?! And the saga goes
on! I don’t think I need to add a single word to that! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8448:
Interested in having granite counters
installed in our fitness clubs. The color of the stone selected is
called ‘Black Pearl’, not sure if it is known by another
name or not.
After doing a lot of research and getting a lot of conflicting information
(from installers/suppliers/competitive product suppliers) I found
your excellent site.
I would like your opinion on the use of a stone product such as granite
in a high use environment such as our clubs.
We would be using it for our reception counters which are not so much
of a problem, the washrooms would be the main issue. There are sometimes
large pools of water left on the counter surfaces, due to scheduling
our cleaning staff could take up to a couple of hours to get back
to the wiping the counters down. There is also a possibility that
the cleaning staff could spill some of there acid based cleaning products
on the counter without realizing it and not clean it up.
Have been told that granite will stain, chip, and need to be sealed
every 6 months to every six years as well have a host of other maintenance
issues.
Due to the timeless and beautiful finished look that we would achieve
by installing granite, a look we would like keep in as good condition
as the day it was installed I would appreciate any clarification you
can supply in regards to these issues and if a stone such as granite
is suitable for our business.
Once again, fantastic informative site that I wish I had found earlier,
it has already answered some of my questions. Kevin, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kevin: Question: What can you do when you have to sell an inferior
product at the same price of a superior one?” Answer:
“Badmouth the superior product by lying out of your teeth while
keeping a straight face and not laugh at what you’re saying!”
(The latter is the most difficult part: it involves some serious tongue
biting!!) I have
to admit that the promoters of the “anti-granite” have it
pretty easy from a faction of the stone industry that managed to make
a scary thing out of a very forgiving product (mercantile granite)
by spreading the “new religion”, namely “the sealing
cult”! In other words, the “anti-granite” people found
very effective help from within the “enemy” lines! Which
is very good for them, or else they wouldn’t stand a chance of
selling their stuff! The
stone that you mentioned, Anarthosite, is one of the most bullet-proof
materials that money can buy, and only some gasbags (oops, I’m
sorry, I meant: “ministers”) would insist at sealing it.
Some go go on record by stating that you have to go through the “sealing
ritual” every 4 to 6 months!! I
don’t care how large the pools of water sitting for I don’t
care how many months on the vanity tops of the wash-room are going
to be. Even if a little bit of it will be absorbed by the stone, no
harm will ever come to it. As
for the acidic chemicals, unless they are toilet cleaners (Hydrofluoric
acid), I don’t think that an occasional spill could ever harm
that stone. If it did, Engineered Stone would be affected, too.
Now that we solved the
stone issue, the major question is still unanswered. I
hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to
say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an
industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8447:
I just read in your posts here that
Uba Tuba is not granite - Ouch - We have them as a tile countertop,
Curiously, What is it - Should it have been sealed, if not why not
- what is the best way to keep it clean if you know? Since I'm now
stuck with it whats the best thing to do maintanence wise? I'm hoping
your expertise and knowledge can help me. Joanna, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joanna: You’re right, Ubatuba is not granite. It is Charnockite,
which, for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop is
even better than true geological granite.Why? Because is harder and
denser than granite. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8446:
Hi! I have a granite slab in front
of my fireplace and want to clean it and bring it to its original
light gray luster. Any suggestions? Thanks, dennis, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dennis: One thing I don’t understand. What is it that you
want to do: clean your slab of granite, or polish it? They are two
totally different propositions. Cleaning will only remove whatever
soil you have sitting on it but won’t do the first thing to bring
back the original factory finish, unless you have a lot of crap sitting
on your stone. If instead it lost its luster because of wear and tear,
then only a trained stone restoration contractor could re-hone and
re-polish your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8445:
We have a black marble bathroom countertop,
small, about 2'X5'. It is quite dull. Is there a way to refinish this
without hiring a professional. It seems small enough that I could
sand it and apply some kind of finish myself if I knew the proper
way to do it. Thanks, Allan, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Allan: “and apply some kind of finish myself if I knew the
proper way to do it.”
There’s the problem! You don’t polish marble by applying
some sort of finish on it, but by abrasion and friction, like gemstone.
It’s an extremely difficult craft that takes years of experience
because it is not a standard procedure and, to top it all, black marble
just so happen to be among the most difficult stone to polish. Sorry,
but your only option is to hire a pro! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8444:
Is Onyx a good choice as a kitchen
countertop? Thanks for your reply. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jan: Onyx is a stone with a high percentage of calcite and therefore
it presents the same maintenance issues as marble. Which
brings us to my usual “copy ‘n’ paste” answer
about using marble in a kitchen. ABOUT
MARBLE IN A KITCHEN It’s
a culture issue. All
throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone
as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not
so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in
relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North
America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it!
How’s that?
For the simple reason
that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop
(or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished
surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse”
it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.”
It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean:
a highly sought “lived-in” look.While the looks of an old
pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North
America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone.
Most people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all
the time, and any “change” is not considered “aging”,
but a damage that needs to be rectified. Hence
the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical
location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-) Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8443:
I have a black silestone countertop
in my kitchen and the water in my area is hard. I have started getting
a white ring around the base of my faucet by the sink. What can I
clean this with? Kristy, Reply |
| Dear Kristy;
If it were granite I would know exactly what to recommend you, but
being the engineered stone (Silestone) has a certain percentage of
resin in it, I wouldn’t feel comfortable by indicating you a
product that I know would work without damaging granite. I really
don’t know what kind of reaction – if any – you could
have with that material. The only piece of advice I feel comfortable
with is to encourage you to inquire with the Silestone people. Maurizio,
Expert Panelsit |
| Q 8442:
Hi, Great site. I had a local fabricator
mention that Absolute Black does not need sealing. Does this apply
to all black granite? I`d like to put flamed black granite on a countertop
using the blackest granite available. What would you suggest I select
and does it need to be sealed because it`s now flamed (or honed for
that matter). Dave, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Dave: Why, thank you for your nice words!
Technically flamed granite does not need to be sealed, because the
flaming process actually melts the crystals of the stone and creates
a glass-like impermeable surface. The real problem is that the black
in granite (or most other stones) is some sort of an optical illusion.
It becomes black only when highly polished. If you detract smoothness
from the surface of the stone, you will automatically lose depth of
color proportionally to the roughness of the new surface. (The rougher,
the lighter will be color). To try to bring the black into the stone,
the only viable solution is the application of a good-quality stone
color enhancer, like my outlandish MB-6. But before you rush and buy
it, run a little test with some baby oil. What you will see (which
will disappear in a matter of a few hours, for the baby oil will evaporate)
is what you will get on a permanent basis with the color enhancer.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8441:
We recently installed Uba tuba gold
counter tops in our kitchen. Shortly after installation we noticed
water rings near the sink. As I read your message board, I become
more confused ... What type of surface am I dealing with. I do not
believe the surface has been sealed, but the contractor says I should
be cleaning the surface with Windex with vinegar and weekly using
Gel-Gloss counter-gloss. I did this in a small area and did not like
the look. I have been using Stone Care Internation countertop spray
and it seems to work well cleaning the countertops except in the area
already stained. Thanks, Reply |
R1:
Dear Angie: I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final
solution for you. I also know that your fabricator is the sole cause
of your problem. Considering the kind of money they made out of you,
I think it’s only fair that you give them a chance to rectify
the situation. In the off chance that they won’t even know what
they’re looking at, and should you need additional assistance
you could also consult with the manufacturer of the cleaning products
you bought.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8440: We
just bought a house and my husband cleaned the slate fireplace hearth
with an acid bath. The slate now looks whiteish and had some depressions
in it. My husband said acid bath will not harm slate. Is he right?
Norma, Reply |
R1:
Dear Norma:
My husband said acid bath will not harm slate. Is he right?”
Well, I don’t know … you tell me: he washed the slate with
acid, he has the consequent damage (etching) in front of his very
eyes What else does he need to be convinced that acid damages most
slates?? ;-) :-) Now
the question is: can that damage be repaired? Unfortunately, because
of the way the slate is typically finished (natural cleft) it is not
possible. In fact it would take honing and re-polishing to do that,
but that is procedure that could only be implemented on a (ground)
flat surface. The
only remedy is to “hide” the damage by applying a good-quality
stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6 to your stone on a “when
needed” basis (every year or so). The stone will look like when
it’s wet. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8439
I am looking at a beautiful kitchen
which is featured on the cover of the summer 2003 issue of Better
Homes and Gardens "Beautiful Kitchens". They are featuring
a kitchen which is built with Clive Christian cabinets and they use
Jerusalem Limestone for the countertops. In the article, they say
that "This particular limestone, has been heated and treated
to become about as hard as granite. I'ts a costly process, but once
treated, the durability and the textural quality of the stone is hard
to beat." I love the look of this countertop, can you fill me
in on what the heating and treating process is that they refer to?
And, in your opinion, could the Jerusalem Limestone then make a good
choice for a kitchen countertop? Thank you so much, MTB, Reply |
R1:
Dear MTB: Do you remember the Broadway show “Chorus Line”?
They made a movie, too. There’s a song that goes: “Everything
looks beautiful at the ballet!
Well, everything looks beautiful on a magazine, too! :-)
Personally I never even heard of this “heated and treated procedure,
but unless it turns limestone into a silicate rock
Regardless of what could be considered marketing hogwash, Jerusalem
Limestone is among the “good guys” when it comes to limestone,
but it’s still limestone, and any possible (though highly doubtful)
increase in its hardness will not solve the first problem attached
to calcite-based rocks! Which brings us to the “copy ‘n’
paste” answer that I give to all inquirers contemplating the
use of marble or limestone as material for a kitchen countertop:
“ABOUT MARBLE IN
A KITCHEN It’s
a culture issue. All
throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone
as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not
so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in
relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North
America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it!
How’s that?
For the simple reason
that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop
(or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished
surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse”
it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.”
It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean:
a highly sought “lived-in” look. While
the looks of an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern
Europe or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem
to apply to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look
like brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered
“aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified.
Hence the problem.
The question now is:
regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups
do you belong to?” :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8438: We
are remodeling our kitchen and have picked out Kashmir Gold as the
granite. In reading your website, I've discovered this may not be
the best choice for kitchen countertops. Would you suggest some other
granites in the same color family for us to choose from. Thank you,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Kevin: Many things happened since those old postings! Better
impregnating sealers became available, and, most importantly, the
majority of those types of stone are getting “resined” by
the factory. Therefore, stone-wise, your selection could be all right,
but I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio Expert Panelist |
| Q 8437: I
purchased some composite marble tiles ( marble chips in a epoxy resin)
in a close out sale. We were considering using them for a kitchen
countertop but are having second thoughts after reading your advice
about marble in the kitchen. Will the composite marble tiles have
the same problems or does the epoxy matrix seal the chips? Vern, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vern: Same problems and maybe more! Don’t even think of
using those things in a kitchen! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8436: I
am trying to figure out what to do for stone in 3 ½ bathrooms
(floors, vanity tops, tub/shower enclosures) as well as the kitchen
counter of a new house that’s going up. I have about one week
to sort it all out and make selections. What publications do you sell
that I might be able to get quickly? Thanks! Ciao, Jean, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jean: The “Maintenance Guidelines for Residential Stone
Installations”. It won’t tell you everything you want to
specifically know (there’s nothing out there available to suggest
people which stones to select for which project), but it will give
the necessary intelligence to understand which stone may create problems
that you wouldn’t want to face!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8435: I’ve
read several entries and have been convincingly steered away from
my preference of honed limestone for my kitchen floor. Am I safe or
just safer considering travertine noce (store says its from Turkey)
and or Crosscut Travartine Alabastrino? I think I copied these differing
spellings of travertine correctly at the tile store. I haven’t
seen a convincing porcelain substitute—looks too much like a
fast food restaurant’s bathroom, I’m afraid. Love the stone
look, don’t mind cleaning and following a regime, but don’t
want to be silly about it. No children or pets but my husband and
I do garden and go in and out a lot. Can change some of the rules
about shoes, etc. Please advise. Hope there travertine names aren’t
too generic to be informative. Thank you in advance, Reply |
R1:
Dear Gill: Considering the type of household you have, it’s green
light in my book!
Just make sure that’s installed right (no butt-jointing and no
sanded grout!!)
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8434: Buongiorno
Maurizio, Can you tell me if Silver Sea Green granite is a good choice
for our kitchen countertop? We were thinking of getting it semi-honed
(they called it high honed). Ciao, Mary, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary: Buongiorno back! I don’t know exactly what kind of
stone it is, other than the fact that it comes from Saudi Arabia.
Generally speaking it’s quite a good stone, but then again, all
stones are good where they are not bad!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8433: What
can you tell me about a granite color called ‘platinum pearl’?
I can not find anything about it. Where does it originate? What about
the density or quality of the stone? ( It is a dark gray with large
pearl looking colorations.) Reply |
R1:
Dear Millie: Personally I never even heard of that particular stone.
(I just saw it on a distributor website, but there’s no info
on it and only a thumbnail pic.) It could be a case of “name
game” that many dealers like to play so that customers can’t
shop them around.
Regardless, I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8432: Is
Labrador antique granite more fragile then most other granites? I
have found that Crystal lite etches rings onto the surface. In addition,
are there any products on the market that take out minor scratches?
Or do I need to call my supplier to buff them out? I look forward
to hearing from you soon. Thank you, Reply |
R1:
Dear Inquirer: (got a name? :)) Labrador Antique is just as fragile
as any other Charnockite.
There’s nothing on the market for DIY to remove minor scratches
and, most likely, your supplier will not know how to do it, either.
It takes a super-proven stone restoration contractor to pull a job
like that off.
Crystal Lite (or any other soft drink, for that matter) should not
etch (“ghost water rings”) a stone like LA. I know exactly
what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. I also
know that your fabricator is the sole cause of your problem. Considering
the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair
that you give them a chance to rectify the situation. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8431: I
am deciding on a granite for a kitchen island. I have liked Dakota
Mahogany, but every sample I've seen is vastly different in color.
Because I live in NYC it's very difficult to find a place where I
can actually pick my exact slab. Also, since the countertop I'm getting
is only 2' x 5', places I've talked to so far won't order a full slab
for me to cut down, but say I have to pick from what they already
have left over. This limits my options, and so far no one has a suitable
sized piece of DM for me! Do you have advice on other granites that
are similar to Dakota Mahogany, and are equally durable and maintenance-free?
(I'm told DM doesn't have to be sealed.) What is your opinion on Tan
Brown and Multicolor Red? Lisa, Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: Tan Brown and Multicolor Red are just easy maintenance
as the DM, but I believe that you will encounter the same problems
with these different materials, too.
There are many more choices, of course, but the most import one is
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8430: I
have a question. I just had installed black honed granite countertops
in my kitchen (yes, I know, I know). I noticed black streaks where
to backsplash meets the countertop-it's where they wiped and razored
off the glue still looks wet (looks like glue that is wet-it's not
blobbly just
looks wet). The installer said the stone is porous and those marks
should go away in acouple of days. Is that true? For some reason,
I don't believe him. He said it's typical and that if isn't gone in
a few days call him and they we'll come out and 'do something'. LOL.
Can you help? Will these marks go away? UGH. Thank you for your help,
Lisa, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: Will these marks go away? Not
in a million years! Basically, the residue of glue makes the stone
look wet, and unless you actually remove it the glue will not go away
by itself. But
… You don’t want to keep your countertop gray, do you?!
Please, read the following
“copy ‘n’ paste” standard answers that I give
to everybody inquiring about honed black granite (which, BTW, is not
absorbent at all). HONED-FINISHED
BLACK ABSOLUTE There
are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite,
but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents
maintenance issues. The
problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well … black
any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become
black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your
slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the
stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color
and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black
again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface
with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of
dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that
I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean
those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they were imbedded
you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer
in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the
sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone
(which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to
begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any
solution? Well,
yes: you have to give up the gray! If
you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop (such
as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator/sealer) instead of an impregnating
sealer Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8429: I
was about to purchase some "limestone" for a studio/guest
room which is about 23 square feet. It will have traffic from my three
children and two large dogs. I have two samples (one has sealer on
it). One sample is "colorful turkish travertine antiqued to look
centuries old" (it looks grey but the color description is antiqued
mystic green") I was handed this sample when I asked for "the
limestone with the fossils". Do travertine and limestone both
have types that contain fossils? Do I have to seal one or both when
the floor is installed and/or later. I am hearing nightmares about
"limestone" and am now confused about what I am looking
at etc. I liked the greyish color and natural feel of what I thought
was limestone (the other sample just says limestone but looks similar
to the one that says turkish travertine--both have shell like fossils).
Which is better? If it is turkish travertine are there different grades?
I was told I would have to seal these every six months. That sounds
like a lot of work. They said you just mop it on. Is such sealer toxic?
Not sure what to ask for or how to achieve this natural look without
extensive maintenance? Any suggestions? I am inclined to go with the
turkish travertine from what I have read on this website, it really
looks similar but seems to maintain better? Only other thing is that
the turkish only comes in tiles that are 12x12 and the limestone comes
in 18x18--it seems that with such a big open space bigger tiles would
be better? Any advise welcome! Thanks-- Liz, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Liz: I was told I would have to seal these every six months.
Absolutely! It
used to be once every few years; then it was reduced to once a year;
now we’re down to once every six months! The trend toward a reduction
of the interval between the applications of the sealer seems to become
stronger by the day: there are contractors who already recommend every
4 to 6 months. Before you know it we’ll be down to every 6 weeks
or somethin’!! That
sounds like a lot of work. What
kind of a question is that? This is strictly a matter of faith, and
you don’t put a price on faith, do you?! The “sealing cult
is no exception! They
said you just mop it on. This
is not correct. You have to mop it on, but then you have to make sure
that you remove every residue of the “miraculous stuff”
from the surface of the stone before it dries, for each and every
sealer for stone on the market are below-surface products and the
most important phase of their application is to make sure that none
of the stuff is left on the surface. (I’m not kidding now.)
What they forgot to tell
you, however, is the most important part of the application of the
miracle-in-a-bottle. You will have to perform special rituals (which
involve special candles and other paraphernalia) before and after
its application, if you want it to work properly!! :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8428: The
fabricator said that 2cm granite does not have to be installed on
top of a plywood base but can go directly on top of the cabinets.
Is this true? Also, the fabricator said they will seal the granite,
but is this necessary with Labrador Antique and should I refuse it?
Thanks for the help. Joanne, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Joanne: The fabricator said that 2cm granite does not have to
be installed on top of a plywood base but can go directly on top of
the cabinets. Is this true?
Yes, it is true. Particular attention will have to be given to make
sure that the top of the cabinets is in full contact with the stone
all over. Also, the fabricator said they will seal the granite, but
is this necessary with Labrador Antique and should I refuse it?
Not only is it not necessary, but risky as well. Yes, you should refuse
the sealing. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8427: you
have a great site and I've learned much. We have polished granite
in our present kitchen and have loved it (husband and I cook lots).
However, we're doing another house and looking for something different.
All planned to use the dark cobra soapstone for 2 large islands and
cabinet countertops in kitchen. NOW, nobody in country seems to have
the cobra soapstone. Others are not as dark as we want - even with
mineral oil applied. One company said we could apply a silicone sealant
called Tenex which would darken the soapstone and alleviate the need
for routine mineral oil application. The alternative soapstones to
the cobra aren't as appealing to us. So, we were considering the honed
Absolute Black granite (since we're looking for a very dark countertop
with a matte surface). I see all your alerts about that so have a
question. If we apply a color enhancer (what?) would we alleviate
problems associated with stains/discolorations) since it would be
a blacker color? Would we use a sealant also? thank you, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: A stone color enhancer like Tenax or my MB-6 will not
make the stone any darker. It will only enhance (deepen, if you will)
the color just as if it were treated with mineral oil. Therefore,
if you won’t find any soapstone as dark as you like it, you will
have to give that up. Going
now to the hone-finished black granite countertop the following is
my “colpy ‘n’ paste” answer that I give to everybody
who inquires about it: There
are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite,
but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents
maintenance issues. The
problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well … black
any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they become
black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your
slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the
stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color
and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black
again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface
with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts of
dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice that
I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can clean
those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they were imbedded
you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer
in the stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the
sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone
(which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to
begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any
solution? Well,
yes: you have to give up the gray! If
you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop (such
as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator/sealer) instead of an impregnating
sealer it will turn it permanently black, while preserving the hone
finish. In that way, the surface-staining problem would be minimized.
Let’s just hope
that your fabricator, in their “infinite wisdom,” did not
apply an impregnator/sealer to your stone: this would have to be stripped
(not an easy feat!), or else the color/enhancer wouldn’t stand
a chance to work properly. Any
other questions? And
don’t you forget that in order to upkeep your stone and the color
enhancer, your best bet is to use out MB-5 and/or MB-17 for your daily
care! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8426: My
new granite countertops have been sealed but feel grainy even after
being wiped clean with a damp cloth. The granite is NEW VENEZIAN GOLD.
It feels like tiny sand particles are coming out of the stone’s
surface. What is the problem and how can it be corrected? The countertops
were installed in December 2004 so they are still new. Thanks, Peggy,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Peggy: The application of a sealer has absolutely nothing to
do with the finish of the surface of the stone. All sealers for stone
are below-surface products. The grittiness of your countertop is due
to the nature of your stone (orthogneiss), teamed with, possibly,
a low grading of your slab. Only a physical inspection could determine
if the degree of grittiness of your countertop is within acceptable
standards. To minimize the problem, one of the tricks of the trade
is to rub a stick of paraffin wax to the rough areas and then buff
it to invisibility with a steel wool. It’s just makeup, mind
you, and as such it will have to be applied over and over on a need
basis, but it works. Now remember, it’s never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8425: My
sister bought a house with granite countertops on 5 different surfaces.
Judging by the pictures on the findstone website, it appears to be
Labrador Amostra from the Angola Black Gabbro group or something close
to that. It has no shine on any of the 5 surfaces. Having read your
comments on the film that can build from using detergent to clean
it (she was wiping it with
a damp dishcloth containing detergent), I have checked even hard to
get at places that do not get cleaned as much as the cooking area
and they all seem uniformly dull. We are not sure what should be used
on this type of stone to try to restore a shine. It does seem to have
gotten wose with time. She has never done the semi-annual sealing
that I have read about.
A more serious problem is that someone working on a clogged sink last
weekend placed a rag containing draino on the counter and it dulled
even more in a spot about 50 sq. inches. The MSDS for Draino says
that it contains HYPOCHLOROUS ACID, SODIUM SALT; (SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE)
, and SODIUM HYDROXIDE. I suppose this is irreparable. Is there any
way to regain the sheen on these counters? How should she clean and
care for it? Joe, Reply |
R1:
Dear Joe: Considering that you’re reporting a rather uniform
dullness all throughout your countertop, I’m lead to believe
that those countertop where installed with a hone-finish (satin, if
you will). In other words, they were never polished to begin with.
If that’s the case, it’s virtually impossible to polish
them in the field in a uniform and satisfactory degree. Just tell
your sister to learn how to live with them, or find out if in your
neck of the woods there is an advanced fabrication facility who would
consider taking on a job like that, which would involve the removal
of the countertops to be taken to their shop for polishing. Consider
big $$$! As for the acid damage, it can be fixed by a reputable stone
restoration contractor.
Finally, about the sealing issue, not only the application of a sealer
would never do the first thing to define the finish of the stone surface,
but it would be a total waste of time and money, since that particular
stone doesn’t absorb a darn thing. If your sister decides to
keep the countertops the way they are, she may want to consider treating
them with a good quality stone color enhancer to deepen the color
thus minimizing the maintenance issues typical of dark-colored hone-finished
granite. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8424: As
I look to use a polished fabulous piece of granite for a dramatic
island in my kitchen I look for another surface for my countertop
work space. I want a drainboard grooved into the surface and I look
for a subtle color/pattern. I prefer the softness and warmth of soapstone.
I know about the softness, sanding and oiling. The granite store suggested
instead honed granite as a substitute--(they also sell soapstone).
After reading your Q&A until I'm blind I seem to find many many
issuses related to honed granite and stains, WATER rings --(if water
is an issue I'm in trouble). It seems that honed granite could be
a big headache. I have an appointment to continue the dialog in several
days and I hope to be a little better educated. Please advise....Lesli
in Virginia, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lesly: Light or medium colored hone-finished granite does not
represent any problem. The problem with hone-finished granite is when
is dark-colored. Yet, the maintenance issues (which have nothing to
do with water) could be minimized with the application of a good-quality
color enhancer and the use of proper specialty cleaning products for
routine maintenance. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8423: My
husband laid 286 pieces of marble in our living room and the one right
in the middle had yellowing in the marble (a discoloration) since
the marble is tan and white. He then tried a hammer on it and got
one little dent in the marble square. Any suggestions on how to get
it out safely without affecting the other marble squares that are
next to it.
Also, he hasn’t put grout down or sealer yet so there is a little
space between the tiles. Also, he laid some board on top of the flooring
before he put down the marble if this helps.
Thanks for your reply since I found you on the internet. In the future,
I guess, I won’t complain and I will keep my mouth shut. Helpless,
in Washington., Reply |
| R1:
Dear Helpless: With a 4” diamond blade he will cut a cross on
the tile diagonally. After that, with chisel and hammer he will remove
the 4 pieces. If he’s careful enough, there shouldn’t be
any problem. And BTW, save yourself some money, time and aggravation
by not sealing your polished marble! Now remember, it’s never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8422: I
like to know about coffee brown granite's denisity and porousity,
do I need to seal it frequently or every six month,does it get stained
easily ? I also like to know that for 7 feet x 4 feet island I have
a 1.5 feet over hang, what should we do for supporting it ? or it
does not required. 3/4 inch plywood support is required to place on
top of all cabinets and than instolation of granite is the best way
to do it. I need some advice. Sejal, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Sejal: I’ve seen that stone, but never dealt with I; therefore
I have no idea about its physical and chemical characteristics. However,
no matter whether or not it needs to be sealed, there’s no stone
in the entire world that needs to be sealed every six months. That
is just a marketing scam to sell more sealer.
Having said that, I hope you will understand the true meaning of what
I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers
at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8421: If
you please. What do I use to attach an undermount porceline sink to
a granite top on a small bathroom vanity? There are no holes in the
granite for clips or hold downs. Thanks for the advise. Joe, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Joe: The glue to use is 100% silicone. However, porcelain sinks
are usually heavy and they should be kept in place with proper metal
holders. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the
proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be
doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8420: After
owning two beautiful granite top nightstand for about 1 week, I already
managed to cause it to stain.... Last night I accidentally left a
paper rinse cup on it after brushing my son's teeth, and overnight,
the mouth rinse leaked through the cup and onto the granite. This
left a dark stain that I am not able to wipe off, and doesn't seem
to dry out.
All I know about the granite is that it's sealed and it is the color
Tropical brown. The mouth rinse is mild, made for children and doesn't
contain alcohol. However, it is pink and may have left some of that
red no. 33 on our granite...
How would you go about getting that stain out? I did read your advise
for other people, but since all stains are different and it seems
to matter whether the granite is stained or not, I wanted to make
sure I get the right solution. Thanks! S.W., Reply |
| R1:
Dear S.W.: Whether the granite is sealed or not, it doesn’t matter.
Stains are always removed in the same way. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
“stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8419: My
dear, sweet husband set his beer bottle on top of our marble table---having
squeezed a lime into said bottle, allowing some to spill over to the
outside of the bottle---our table now has an almost perfect etched
ring on a most predominant area. Because I didn't get (visibly) upset,
he's determined to repair his error. Please, if you will send as specific
directions on how to repair this grievous mistake at home. He's handy,
he's got skills, he's strong and resolute. I think he may be able
to fix it...or at least try before calling a professional. Thank You,
Karen, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: Now, you don’t want to get into a messy divorce because
of an etch mark on a marble table top, do you?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8418: Good
morning! I was excited to find your site. We are building our dream
house in Costa Rica and considering using Travertine for our flooring.
However, we have four dogs and they do occasionally have accidents
in the house. Is this a problem with Travertine? Even if we seal it?
And, how often would sealer need to be reapplied?
One more thing, if Travertine isn’t a good choice for our circumstances
what else of similar look and quality could you recommend? Thanks,
Susan, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Susan: Sealing it wouldn’t do the first thing to prevent
the damages caused by your dogs’ accidents. Get travertine look-alike
porcelain tiles. Same look (well, almost), but bullet proof! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8417: Hi,
We just had a granite countertop installed – Junaparana Bordeax,
and have several problems. I’m not sure if we have unrealistic
expectations, or if these are serious. Overall the fabricator is claiming
that t his particular stone is difficult to work, and the problems
are a function of our choice of stone – I am not really buying
into that argument. 1.one section
of the countertop has about 8 separate visible cracks clustered in
the center of the section - that have been “patched” with
epoxy material by the fabricator. The fabricator claims that these
are natural fissures that needed to be filled – to us it looks
like the slab has been dropped & shattering has occurred. Some
of the cracks have a random “run”, but two big ones are
“straight” up/down and look unnatural. 2.The
fabricator has covered the entire back side of all countertop sections
with some type of webbing material, and we have never seen this on
anyone else’s 3cm installation. Our suspicion is that it has
been applied to reinforce damaged material. 3.Another
section of the countertop completely broke at the sink mount area
– and was repaired. This was not disclosed at installation –
we found it when installing our plumbing. Otherwise it is not visible
– does this compromise the countertop? It appears ok now, and
the fabricator has written us a special warranty to cover ti.
4.there are rough cracks on rim where
the undermount sink is attached. The fabricator says these cannot
be fixed, and it’s a function of our stone type. The area is
constantly hit with water, and I’m afraid it will abnormally
degrade over time, and will collect bacteria. My
question is: ·Are these
problems? I have only paid ½
so far, and am withholding payment until this is resolved – what
are my options? How do I find a reliable, unbiased expert to come
inspect the installation. I would like a fair evaluation, and I’m
not sure paying a competitor to come in is the right thing to do.
Thanks for any opinion you can offer.
M- Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mary: I’m sure you understand that only a physical inspection
of your countertop could lead to a final assessment of your situation.
Consequently my answers are based exclusively on your version and
interpretation of the facts.
Having said that, it appears to me like you had a close encounter
with Michelangelo! :-(
The only thing that I will grant to your fabricator is the netting
on the back of the slab. They did not apply it, the factory did. It’s
a common practice that they use when dealing granites that are more
brittle than average. For all the rest, my suggestion is to consult
either with another fabricator, or, if your afraid of bias, with a
reputable stone restoration contractor in your neck of the woods.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8416: Recently,
we had granite countertops installed in our kitchen. Shortly after
the installation, I discovered that one of the corners of the island
is cracked. The crack continues around the entire corner. I can see
an apoxy (tan/putty in color) in the crack on the sides and underside
of the counter. A groove is present in the crack on the top surface
of the countertop. The fabricator insists that it is a fissure and
that it did not break off. He explained that a penetrating apoxy was
used and is so thin that it is poured over the fissure and seeps into
the fissure. I am concerned that the corner will fall off. The fabricator
is calling the granite Nevadah Gold... Looks like it may be Madurai
Gold. Fissure or Break?? Please respond. Thank you. - Lisa Dvorak,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: Going by your description, it’s a full-fledged crack
and badly repaired to boot. The explanation allegedly given to you
by your fabricator sound fishy and not convincing. However, only a
physical inspection could positively confirm that. My suggestion is
to consult with a professional stone restoration contractor.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8415: Can
I use linestone for pool coping and an adjacent patio? Is it too pourous?
Do I have to seal it? How often? Is there a difference in limestone
from different parts of the world?, Reply |
R1:
Dear Christine: The last time I checked there was no law against it,
but if you ask me there ought to be one! By saying limestone you’re
saying absolutely nothing. Some of them could be considered suitable
for your project, but certain would turn out to be a total disaster.
It doesn’t matter which country they come from (the man upstairs
did not invent Geography!), but limestone can differ enormously from
quarry to quarry.
Consider hone-finished marble instead, or, better yet, bush-hammered
to solve the slipperiness issue when wet. (You would have that with
limestone, too.)
Another excellent choice would be bush-hammered granite or saw-cut
and unfilled travertine.
You’re in direct contact with me now. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8414:
I hope you will be able to answer my
question, or at least direct me to where I might find the answer.
I am making a mosaic bird bath. What type of sealant can I use that
will be non toxic to birds and other wildlife? Where can I purchase
it? Thanks for your time and in making your brain available to me
and others. Sincerely, Robin, Reply |
R1:
Dear Robin: Sealers for stone are all below-surface products. What’s
more, the solid part of them (the resin that does the actual sealing)
becomes chemically inert once properly cured. The only agent that
could interact with them would be Methylene Chloride. Of course, I
wouldn’t mind one bit if you’d consider purchasing my outlandish
MB-4! :-)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8413:
Would like to put New Venetian Gold
tile in our shower to match our counter tops in the Master Bath? Is
this is good choice? Other recommendation (either engineered or real
stone) to be better? What material would you recommend for the shower
base? Thanks, Reen May, 1, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Reen: There’s nothing wrong with the material, for as long
it is installed right. The installation is critical in a shower stall.
If it’s not done right, no matter what material you’ll be
using you will have problems that will lead to installation failure!
You have no idea of how many wrong installations I saw in my contracting
day! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8412:
I am going to have to replace my current
shower which is cultured marble. I've been told that Agglosimplex
would be a better, more durable option than the cultured marble.
Is it a good product to use for a shower? Kimberly, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kimberly: Agglo-Simplex is a marble agglomerate. It’s much
better than plastic (cultured marble), but it will require the same
care guidelines as if it were solid marble. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8411:
Our granite installer ground the seams
on my granite countertop. Now, after polishing the area where he ground
the uneven seam with 800, 1500, and 3000 grit, there is a difference
in the finish. How can this be fixed? Thank you, Captain, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Captain Bob: There’s no way on earth that one could obtain
a factory-finish with diamond pads alone, no matter how appropriate
for any particular granite they are. At best, there are no more than
a couple of dozens of stone-refinishing contractors that could pull
a job like that off. Clearly, your fabricator can’t be listed among
them! You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8410:
We had our entire lower floor done
in limestone flooring. We are seeing small holes in various areas
spread randomly throughout the floor. Some tiles in high traffic areas
have no holes/pits. Areas covered by area carpets have some holes.
Areas that have very little traffic are pitted more than higher traffic
areas. Basically, there is no logic to the distribution of the pits.
They start out small, like the point of a pencil. Then they seem to
be larger. Until we started checking into the problem, we didn't even
notice the tiny holes. The tile supplier "has never seen anything
like this". Do you have any ideas what this could be. The holes do
not go through to the cement under the stone, but seem to be less
deep than the full thickness of the stone. Thanks for any help you
can give. Reply |
R1:
Dear David: By saying: limestone, you’re saying absolutely nothing!
There a few pretty decent limestones, and then there limestones that
melt under running water, and then there are a whole army of limestones
anywhere in between. Where your limestone fits in is anybody’s guess.
The only sensible thing that you have to do is to go back to the dealer
who sold the stone to you, (the very person who told you that “has
never seen anything like this”, remember?) and just tell them that
while you can appreciate the fact that they don’t know what they’re
looking at, you would like to know what they are going to about it!!
, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8409:
A neighbor highly recommended a handyman
to me for remodeling my bathroom with marble (we bought the 12”x12”
slabs at Lowe’s—it’s smooth marble from Italy, about ½ inch thick,
with lots of veins—quite beautiful). All I know is that this handyman
is a perfectionist, and his forte is tile. He had never done marble
before and he’s very frustrated because after spending about 10 minutes
making a perfect cut, it falls to pieces in his hand. Is there a special
way to cut marble? He has a very good MK marble/tile cutting machine,
and he’s about to throw in the towel and I am quite distressed. Please
help me and/or let me know what other information you might need or
where we could look for tips on cutting marble—I’m desperate! Thanks,
Flor, Reply |
R1:
Dear Flor: Unfortunately, the field of stone has never been an easy
arena for DIYers and “Jacks-of-all-trades”. Your handyman is about
to throw the towel and you’re quite distressed?
DON’T BE! BE VERY HAPPY INSTEAD!! That would give you the perfect
opportunity to hire a contractor specializing in installations of
natural stone tiles!
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8408:
Hi, I am looking at buying some Italian
Blue Pearl Granite in Indonesia. How does the Italian granite compare
and also what would be an approx cost
to pay for a 210cm x 60cm x 3cm piece? Any advice would be appreciated.
Kind Regards, Sandra, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sandra: “Italian Blue Pearl Granite” ??? Blue Pearl is quarried
exclusively in Norway.
What was offered to you is probably Blue Pearl that was processed
in Italy. In fact, Italy is the largest stone processor in the world:
they buy blocks of stone from all over the world and process them
into slabs and tiles.
Having said that, although the fact that’s coming from Italy is not
an absolute guarantee for a better-quality product, what has to be
said is that Italian slabs are most of the time better.
You’re in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8407: Hi,
I have read through many forums on findstone.com and am awed by helpful
remarks. We are considering granite countertop for our kitchen and
need some advice
a) Choice of granites
We are considering Volga blue, Blue pearl, Black Galaxy and Emerald
Pearl (prefering in that order) Which is a good choice - what should
I be on the lookout for for each (other than the lemon and Acetone
tests)
b) Honed or Polished
Since this is a busy kitchen countertop, some sites suggested to go
with honed finish rather than polished finish. Some indicated that
honed finishes are difficult to remove normal stains from. What should
I take? Thanks in advance for your advice Manish K Reply |
R1:
Dear Manish: Considering that all the stones
you listed are dark-colored, I would exclude the hone-finish. Polished
is, very definitely, much easier to maintain.
As for the rest, I’ll tell you have to be on the lookout for: THE
FABRICATOR!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say.
It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about
if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get
a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important
than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8406:
A bottle of WD 40 just leaked on my bluestone side walk. What should
I do? Dale, Reply |
| R1:
I recently installed Sunset Gold "granite" tile (an Arizona Tile product)
on my kitchen countertops. It is extremely absorbent and sucked up
4 or 5 applications of TileLab penetrating sealer. The sealer helped
but we anticipate that we'll get staining as it still absorbs water
(or any other liquid). Some spilled vegetable oil has caused spots
that are getting lighter with time but may never go away. I realize
now that I probably bought some very poor quality stone. Are you familiar
with this tile? - is there any hope for us? Can we seal this stuff
or should we tear it up and start again? Thanks, Robert |
| Q 8405: I
have been reading your comments on your website and was wondering
what your thoughts were. We are redoing our master bath. We are trying
to decide what is the better way to go, granite vs. cultured granite.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I am finding pros and cons
of each, which is to be expected, but they are just from consumers
who posted messages, so thought I would give you a try. Thank you
for your help. Kay, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kay: I never heard of “cultured granite”, but I want
to assume that you’re making reference to the so-called engineered
stone, such as Silestone, Ceasarstone, etc..
If that’s the case, then the following is my “copy and paste”
answer to all those who ask your question:
MERCANTILE GRANITE VS. ENGINEERED STONE.
The quartzite-based manmade stones (a.k.a. engineered stone) are gaining
momentum by presenting themselves as the “anti-granite”.
Many of their claims are false and unsubstantiated. They are understandable,
too: the promoters of engineered stone wouldn’t stand many chances
to sell their very expensive manmade stuff if they were out telling
the truth! And
the truth is:
Engineered stone (e.s.) is NOT any harder than most commercial granites.
Many of the latter are actually, even if so slightly, harder. Therefore
the scratch resistance factor is the same if not slightly in favor
of the real thing. What’s more, although not so easily, it is
possible to find a few stone restoration contractors who could repair
a scratch from most commercial granites; I still have to meet one,
or even heard of one, who could do that on e.s.
It is true that e.s. does not require the application of an impregnating
sealer, but many a commercial granite doesn’t need that, either.
And for those that do, the application of a good-quality impregnating
sealer will take care of the problem. What is also true is that while
e.s. is indeed stain-resistant (like many types of commercial granite)
it is NOT totally stain-proof. I did see a couple of oil stains on
e.s. The removal of these (rare) stains could represent a problem,
because the solvent needed to poultice them out could damage permanently
the resin part of e.s.
Although is not recommendable as a routine practice, one could put
a pot off of the stove directly on any non-resined commercial granite
surface, one could not do that on e.s.: the resin part could get permanently
damaged by the heat.
Because of the high percentage of quarts (up to 96%) the routine maintenance
requirements for e.s. are the same as for any commercial granite.
Now you can draw
your conclusions. Bear in mind that I do not sell or fabricate stone.
I’m simply a stone restoration / maintenance man. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8404: my
granite counter top has an 11" overhang in the back. left and
right has a 5" overhang. is the 11" safe? or a bracket recommended.
thank you. veronica, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Veronica: If your countertop was fabricated from a 2 cm. thick
slab, then it does need proper support with brackets or corbels. If
it’s coming from a 3 cm. slab instead, then we’re right
on the border with the limits that are considered industry standards.
Considering that there a big structural differences among all the
different “granites” available, (you won’t say which
stone you have) if it were my own countertop I would support it. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8403: I
have purchased BROWN ANTIQUE granite for my countertops. I can't seem
to find any info about whether this is the correct name or any special
instructions for sealing and maintaining it. Any info is appreciated.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michelle: You do NOT want to seal Brown Antique (a.k.a. as Labrador
Antique). |
| Q 8402: I
am having aggles implex, was told that it is a man made product containing
italian marble, installed as bathroom countertop and wall surround
above tub shower combination. I have a water softner system which
uses salt. My question is , what do I use to clean and maintain this
product?, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cathy: I’m not very familiar with manmade materials in general,
but when they are marble agglomerates they need the very same care
guidelines as if they were solid marble. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8401: I
have recenty installed mable wall tiles in my bathroom and i'm starting
to notice water stains appearing,is there any sure way to waterproof
such tiles BRIAN, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brian: Do this:
spill some water on one your tiles and let it sit there for an hour
or so. After that wipe it dry and tell me is you see any “water
stain”. I really don’t need to wait for your answer, the
answer is: [b]no way![/b] Water
never stained stone and it never will.All the water stains you have
on your stone are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic
or other pH active liquids that became in contact with the surface
of the stone, i.e.: drinks, vinegar, salad dressing, lemon juice,
tomato sauce, orange juice, many a generic cleaning product, and so
on through a long list. There’s no product on the marketplace
that could prevent such surface-damages from happening. You will need
the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will
have to hone and re-finish your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8400: Just
had new black granite countertops put in kitchen of new home (being
built). Granite has rough flaws. Installer says going to fix this.
Is this fixable? B. Jackson, Reply |
| R1:
Dear B. Jackson: The description of your problem is too limited. Regardless,
if the rough spots are factory-flaws they could be fixed, providing
that whoever takes on the job is among the couple of dozens (at most)
contractors in the whole country who could pull a job like this off.
If they are natural flaws in the stone instead, then nobody could
repair them. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
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