| Q
5891: We
have a newly installed granite countertop, "Rainbow". The
seam edge on one of the pieces is chipped on the top surface. The
chip size is 1/4" x 1/2". The front bottom edge also is
chipped, a deep, narrow, triangular shaped divot. All the seams are
rough looking with little chips. The installers filled the seams with
epoxy, but it is not smooth and level. We have paid 2/3 of the bill,
holding onto the last 1/3 until all is to our satisfaction. We are
very disappointed concerning the chips. We don't know what to do about
this. We feel we are paying so much, that we should not accept the
chipped granite. There are other minor things that bother us. There
is a seam in front of the sink, the grain does not match at all. We
were told that they try to match up the grain as much as possible.
It just doesn't look like it. The same seam in front of the sink is
not lined up exactly. The two pieces do not line up as well as we
would think they should be. Are we too picky? This is a $7000 job,
and we expected higher quality. The granite is beautiful, but the
seams are not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thank you,
Karen, Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: For what you're reporting, no, you're not too picky.
It looks to me like "Michelangelo" struck again!! The seaming
is one area of the fabrication process where you separate the men
from the boys: there shouldn't be any chipping and the epoxy should
be perfectly flush with the stone surface. A seam in the middle of
the sink hole is a big NO-NO in my book, especially in the case of
an under-mount sink. What's more, the "masters" who seam
there (because they don't want to bother rodding) just cut the slab
in half after making the sink whole and put it together again on location.
In other words, the matching of the two pieces is never an issue.
In your case, it sounds like they tried to put together two pieces
from two different slabs or from two different spots in the same slab.
You should demand the replacement of the whole thing, or your money
back in full. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5889: I
am interested in installing Perlato Royale on the walls of a shower,
but have been told that marble is a bad choice for showers. Do you
have information for maintaining marble in a shower? Is the agglomerate
somehow better suited for a shower situation than natural marble?
Thanks, Larry, Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Larry: The negative thinkers are just plain ignorant about marble
maintenance; therefore they spit out the "easy solution"!
:-) (May all the gods forbid that they contemplate spending some time
contemplating the idea of getting some basic stone education! Perlato
Royale is an excellent choice for a shower stall enclosure. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5888:We have a kitchen granite countertop. Our current faucet, which
uses a 13/16 inch mounting hole, needs to be replaced. However, all
the new faucets we like use a 1 3/8 inch mounting hole. Is it possible
to enlarge our mounting hole without the granite cracking? Who should
I contact for this service? Many thanks. This is a great site. Mark,
Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mark: Yes, it is possible and it is not a big deal. Get hold of your
fabricator. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5887: Can
you tell me what the difference is in the grades of granite I found
a color Black Galaxy in grade 3 and grade 2 besides the price are
the grades different in thickness? and quality and how do I know if
i am paying to much money for a particular grade? what should I be
looking for when picking out granite counter topsHoping you can help
me out, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
There are no official standards anywhere in the entire world (unfortunately)
about stone grading. Whatever grading has been disclosed to you is
strictly voluntary. The thickness of a slab does not determine the
grade. It's hard to tell what to look for in writing. The bottom line
is that eventually you will have to rely on the contractor reputation
and business ethic. I seldom comment about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or
"resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make
a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the
hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| |
| Q
5885: I
found a victorian marble table in an antiques shop that has stain
damage to the marble top. I appears to be rust from a metallic object
that was damp. It left its impression in the marble top. Is there
any way to remove this stain? Michael, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: I doubt, but you can try. When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! I Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5884: After
searching the net, i realized that we installed imperial white granite
in the shower. Boy oh boy i feel like i've been had. Any recommendations
on how take out the water stains before i reseal it 4-5 times or should
i just reseal it without taking the water/moisture out? Your help
would be much appreciated, Mike, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mikie: You MUST take the moisture off before sealing your stone with
a good quality impregnator like my MB-4 My product will seal your
stone with three applications, tops (wait 24 hours between each application).
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5883: My
floor has had 7 coats of sealer on it and it still is not right. Ever
time a coat gets put on there's a rough patch here and there not always
in the same spot. This last coat that was put on looks like it bubbled
and now it pitted. what if anything can I do besides start over, I
have already paid the contractor for the job.Cathy, Nov 29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Cathy: And exactly what kind of sealer are you talking about? A topical
sealer - like a wax or something - or a sealer for stone, a.k.a. impregnator?
If your case is the former, then somebody is doing something wrong
with the waxing and buffing thing; if your case is the latter, then
somebody should put in jail your contractor and throw the key away!
A sealer for stone is NOT topical: NONE of the stuff is supposed to
sit on the stone surface, being that all impregnator/sealer are below-surface
sealer. Didn't anybody read the direction on the bottle, for crying
out loud? Have the whole thing stripped out (it won't be easy) and
get some intelligence on the subject before going on with some other
"experiment". Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5882: There
has been many hours put into preparing my Spring Green granite counter
top. Yet unfortunately, as the sink hole was being cut out the slab
broke. Almost no chips have fallen out, but it is still split in two.
After reading many of the threads on this site and others it seems
like repairs can be done to still use the slab, and make it secure,
although the crack will still be somewhat visible. Can you offer me
a step by step description of how to do and what to do to make sure
that I follow the best practices? Tim, Nov
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tim: I don't understand: are you a DIYer making his own granite
countertop? If that's the case, well, I'm sorry, but I've got some
bad news for you. Before cutting out the sink hole you should have
rod the stone in front and back of the hole itself. Now the slab is
broken in two pieces and you hope that you can but it back together.
Well, let me tell you what's involved: you have to glue the two pieces
together with epoxy glue to match the color; then, if you have to
have a small chance that it will stay together, you will have to rod
the areas that you didn't rod before; after that, once the whole thing
is installed and the sink is in place, you will have to grind, hone
and polish the surface of the stone where you made the repair. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5881: I
wonder if you could give me your opinion on the following kitchen
combinations: flooring: Bruce Hardwood, Gunstock stain on Oak. cabinet:
Fieldstone, Brighton Cherry with Ginger stain countertop: Granite,
Autumn Brown appliances: stainless steelIs there another countertop
that would complement our other selections? We had considered UbaTuba,
however we thought it to be too dark.Thanks.Tim, Nov 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tim: Don't ask me: I'm 25% colorblind!! :-) I can only advise
you as a mechanic, and as such what I say is that I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5880: Last
year, we bought a house with black slate tile kitchen countertops.They
now have are discolored to a horrid gray in some areas and have numerous
water rings. I have now realized that they were probably never sealed.
What can I do (if anything!) to restore them? Thank you for your excellent
advice page. I'll be well informed when it comes time to remodel,
Travis,
Nov 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Travis: Even if it had been sealed you'd have the very same problems.
For what I know, the only thing that could give you peace of mind
is to rip out the whole darn thing, replace it with a "good granite"
and live happily ever after. But what do I know about slate anyway?
I'm sure that some slate big gun will chime in no time with a sure
solution to your problem. Assuming that they are not too busy selling
it, that is. But don't you worry, is gonna be any day now … aaaany
day …! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5879:You guys were right. I should have never bought it. Now that
I have, 1) Is there a chemical I can use on my countertop to universally
stain it? 2) If I decide to get rid of it, what would you suggest
in lieu of granite that is durable. Is Quartz any good? Whitney, Nov
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Whitney: We were right about what? First off, you can't "stain"
granite. Second, just because you chose a bad "granite"
it doesn't mean that all "granites" are bad. Your specific
intelligence on the matter was bad! :-) If I'd suggest a different
material to you I'd be lying, because nothing is more durable and
easier to maintain than most commercial granites. Now the question
is: "which ones are the good guys?" I seldom comment about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of
slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5878: I
have noticed a stain on my granite and I believe it came from a banana
that was bruised and absorbed into the stone. It's the only thing
I can think of since I have been very careful to not leave anything
on there that would stain. The stain is about the width of a large
banana and about 2-3" long. Is there anything I can do about
this? My granite is rather light, but has some browns and blacks in
the pattern. Suzanne, Nov 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Suzanne: It can be classified as an organic stain. When it comes to
stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5877: My
husband and I are considering getting granite countertops – slab
not tiles. I’ve heard from a few friends that my cabinets and
floor (basement lot) may not support a slab and I should look at tiles.
My contractor said my cabinets, walls, and floor would support slabs.
Have you heard of any support problems with granite slabs and should
I consider tiles because of the support issue? Thank you - Dee,
Nov 28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dee: Don't listen to unqualified comments from unqualified friends.
If your contractor states that there are no problems (and I personally
believe him: there are only extremely rare instances when a floor
can't support a slab countertop) go for it.Concern yourself on the
choice of the "right granite" - among a long list of good
choices! I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may
be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5876: I'm
thinking about installing White Carrara marble in my boys' bathroom,
since I've already chosen White Carrara countertop in the same room.
But I'm afraid my boys may have numerous accidents around the potty
and stain the stone. Do you think it's a bad idea to choosing White
Carrara in this case? Urine can stain the stone? If it's OK, what
kind of sealer should I apply? Thanks! Eriko, Nov
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eriko: Urine can stain marble in two wais: 1. by actually being
absorbed by it and turn it in a yellow color. 2. By etching it (urine
contains ureic acid). The former problem can be minimized with the
application of a good quality impregnator/sealer, like my MB-4. The
latter can't be avoided at all. All in all, it's a high maintenance
material. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5875: We
have some new granite countertops. They have been sealed by the contractor.
Generally doing fine with them. Once in a while we see a water mark,
but it dries out quickly. this morning we noticed a ring mark that
does not seem to be drying and we are not sure what caused it. Teenagers??
Any suggestions? David,
Nov 28, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear David: Teenagers don't stain, oil does! It looks to me like you
have an oily stain, which clearly indicates that your countertop was
not impregnated/sealed properly. I bet that they only apply the impregnator
once at the time of the installation and … good-bye, right? When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5874: I
just noticed about 3 or 4 spots where the granite has dryed out and
looks pitted. What do you do to repair/fix the dry pitted and damaged
sections? Thanks, David, Nov
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
David: Nothing, they are natural flaws in the stone. You could rub
some paraffin wax onto them, but it's only a temporary fix. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
Q
5873: I
live in Alabam where the dirt can be pretty red in places. Is there
anyway I can remove the stains it is leaving on my son's granite marker?
The stone is not polished the lettering is carved not raised and there
is no dye on the stone.
Also when the lettering fills with dirt it is easier to read so now
I sometimes wish I had had the lettering dyed. Is there anyway to
do this now that the stone is complete and in the ground, could I
do it myself? (The marker is flat,not an upright monument, and has
quite a number of words on it.) Thank you for your advice and/or comments.
Connie, Nov 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Connie: It's a sad story, and as father of two sons myself I
feel truly sorry for you. To clean the reddish staining you could
use water (3 parts) mixed with regular household bleach (1 part),
using a regular laundry brush (don't forget to wear rubber gloves
and be careful not to spill any on your clothing). About the staining
of the carved lettering you could use some regular dark paint, after
you cleaned, rinsed and let totally dry. Just be careful not to smudge
the stone around the lettering when you paint in. It will take some
patience and a firm hand. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5872: I had granite installed yesterday and have some concerns about
the installation. I wanted to get unbiased advice before I take these
issues up with the fabricator. We installed 72 sq ft of Volga Blue.
It appears that the stone dust from installation was not properly
removed prior to the final sealing as it appears streaky and full
of hundreds of small scratches. Also there is a seam about 18"
from my range top that is very visible and at points I can even feel
it. Another issue is that the edge around my sink is not as rounded
as the edge of my countertops. Am I just being to picky? or should
I insists theses issues be resolved before I make final payment. I
appreciate any guidance you can offer on this matter. Sheila, Nov
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sheila: The last thing that you want to do to a stone as Volga
Blue is to apply an impregnator/sealer to it, not even my "best
of them all" MB-4. The streaks that you notice are probably some
residue of the impregnator that was not properly removed. I would
urge you to have your fabricator thoroughly strip the stupid thing
that had no business being there to avoid the distinct possibility
of future problems associated to the presence of the sealer itself.
About the seam and the edge issue, I can't comment without actually
seeing your countertop. Try to discuss those matters with your fabriocator
when they come back to strip the impregnator/sealer. Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your
stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5871: I
have a steam shower tiled with Crema Marfil Tile. The orginal shower
sprung a leak in the liner. A new shower was installed using the same
marble. However, this time a tripleflex water proofing material was
used behind the tile. It took almost 3 mos. for the cross hatches
on the back of the tile to dry out. The grout was mottled. In some
places the light colored grout was a dark gray. The top 1/8"
of grout has been replaced, but there is still one area that is very
dark. The shower has not been used in 2 mos., nor has it been sealed.
I'm now being told that *I* chose the wrong material for the shower
and have to accept it. I didn't have a grout or drying problem with
the original tile.1) Is crema marfil marble contraindicated for a
steam shower? 2) Is water proofing necessary and is it to be blamed
for the grout not drying? 3) Any other reason for this to happen?
Thank you, Kathleen, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathleen: I don't have all the answers to your questions, but
I'll tell you what I know. Crema Marfil was not a good choice only
because the steam will eventually make it dull (like it would make
dull every other polished marble or compact limestone). Other than
that - which is only a cosmetic problem - there are no counter-indications
about the use of that particular material in a shower stall. About
the rest of your questions, you should be getting hold of a reputable
third party tile setter to consult with about your problems. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5870: If
I put granite in my kitchen will the maintenance be hard? Will the
granite scratch or get dull over time. I am worried about investing
in granite then it won't hold up over a long period of time. Lisa,
Nov 27,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear lisa, granite is an excellent choice for kitchen. it needs little
maintenance and lasts forever. only you got to choose the right type
of granite.my adivse to you is to go for a good quality black granite
or red granite top.these are hard, sturdy and does not absorb oil
or any other stains. you got to sprinkle some water and wipe them
to keep them clean. all the best Capt. M. Dilip |
| R2:
Dear
Lisa: If you choose the right "granite" (among a long list
of good choices) it will turn out to be the most enjoyable and worry-free
material that money can buy, not to mention its inherent, unparallel
beauty! But, like I said, you've got to do some homework! I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5869: I'm
renovating a bungalow and am trying to decide between soapstone (which
has the low-key matte appearance I really want) and granite (which
I think will be half the installed cost at Houston prices and is easier
to take care of). Also, I don't know the details, but I got the idea
you do not recommend slate.I'll appreciate any information you can
send me. Thank you, Marie, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:Dear
Marie: "I got the idea you do not recommend slate." Wow,
is it that obvious??! :-) Go with granite! Deciding on which one is
quite important, though! I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is
bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| Q
5868: My
newly-installed Madura Gold countertop has several streaks that appear
to be glue wiped form the installation. Can you tell me, please, how
they can be removed? Also, can you give me information on the quality
and durability of Madura Gold "granite"? Thank you.Sim,
Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
The
most simplest way is put some talcum powder on the stains and wait
for it to suck it up. |
| R2:
Dear
Sim: About the streaks you could try to remove them by using a paint
stripper based on Methylene Chloride, but I'd call the fabricator
back to finish their job, if I were you. M.C. is pretty nasty stuff
to handle! Madure Gold is a good stone if properly impregnated and
taken care of. Talking about which, it's never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's
all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site postings, you're not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that they were
advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian
blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5867:I used a product called "House Brite" in my shower
which caused the epoxy filler to "dissolve" in many locations.
I took the manufacturer to small claims court. The judge has asked
for "collaborating" testimony from an expert as to if my
assertions are true. The manufacturer claims the product is mostly
just bleach. Can you make any comments about the use of bleach on
a travertine tile shower floor.Thanks.Matthew, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Matthew: Bleach will NOT damage travertine, nor will it ever
"dissolve" the cementitious material (not epoxy) that's
used by the factory to fill it with. Other than that, I can't make
any comment because I have no idea what other chemicals are included
in the formula of that particular product and that could be so strong
as to dissolve the filler. Your best bet is to try to "clean"
a spare tile with that stuff and see what happens. If it does damage
the filler, then you will repeat the little experiment in front of
the judge. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5866: I
am thinking of making a pathway and patio area (outside of my house)
using broken pieces of different coloured granite and arranging them
together like a mosaic and then using grout or concrete to fill the
gaps.Can you tell me if you know of any problems pertaining to this
and do you know of somebody else who may have already tried this?
Iam thinking of using broken irregular shaped granite not neat squarely
cut granite tiles. I would really appreciate if you could help me.
Will you email me back or do I have to go back to your website and
check for an answer? Matt, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
There is no problem of doing what you are planning.
its ideal for such a usage only be careful not to slip and fall when
wet. Capt. M. Dilip |
| R2:
Dear
Matt: If you know what you're doing as far as installation goes, you
shouldn't have any problem. Just keep in mind that when wet granite
is quite slippery! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5864: I
am considering installing Tropic Brown granite counter tops in my
bathroom. I was told this granite comes from Finland or Sweden. I
have never had granite counter tops before. After reading some comments
on granite I have to say I am concerned about staining/pitting etc.
I don't want to make a costly mistake; Is this stone a good choice
for a bathroom counter top? Any pointers on how to care for granite;
cleaning etc.? Thank you in advance for your help, Michele,
Nov 27,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Michele: Tropic Brown is one of the few true geological granites on
the market and is quarried in Saudi Arabia. (Quite a stretch from
Finland or Sweden!) Like all true granites it does have some natural
pitting. It's up to the fabricator that you will be choosing to make
sure that your slab is a good grade with the least amount of pitting.
About the sealing issue, there are no fixed rules: use my little lemon
juice test to find out if your particular slab will need to be sealed
(usually it does not). About taking proper care of it, Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5862: I
need to color old marble floors and tables. Please advice on products
and techniques available. I have access to professional marble for
the application if needed. They have not encountered such requests
in the past but they can work with the products if they are available.Please
indicate how to pay for the consultancy; I am living in Saudi Arabia.
Best regards, Dr Nabil, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Dr. Nabil: The reason why the professionals you've contacted never
encountered any such request in the past is because there's no such
a thing like coloring marble! :-) Marble can be refinished to its
original factory polished finish by re-grinding it and re-polishing
it, but if the marble professionals you've been talking to said that
they never did anything like that in the past, without proper intensive
training they will never be able to do it now just by getting some
consultation via e-mail. Refinishing marble is the most demanding
facet (from a professional point of view) of the whole stone trade.
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5861: We
have a honed granite countertop that was installed 3 years ago (uba
tuba). I have recently noticed some scratches, and am not sure how
to best remove them. I appreciate your advice. Nancy,
Nov 27, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nancy: Don't! If those scratches bother you so much, get hold
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5860: I
have one quetion and really hope you'll be able to help me... I'm
living in Arizona. We put travertine in our house a few month ago.
Now in a few tile you can see a hole how can I fill that hole? Thank
you for answering, Nathalie. Nov
27, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Natalie: Get some almond sandless grout, mix it with a latex
additive to the consistency of peanut butter, and push it inside the
holes using a putty knife. Let it cure for 24 hours, and then "shave"
it flush with the stone surface using a razor blade. With the same
razor blade you will make sure to remove every film residue. Now,
remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5859:
In the new house that my wife and I are buying. The builder has a
piece of granite on our island, the granite is 1-1/4" thick and
over hanging 12" on two sides. My question. Is there a possiblity
of the granite breaking? If so, what kind of force would break it?
(not that I want too) Thank You in advance for your answer. Panos,
Nov 27,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Panos: An overhang of 12" MUST be supported by either metal
braces or wooden corbels. It's one of the rare standards available
about fabrication of stone. Now, remember, it's never too early to
think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5858: We
have some cooking grease stains on our newly installed (and sealed)
slate barbeque and patio. Any recommendations for techniques and products
we can use to remove them? How can we prevent this from happening
again? Do we need to re=seal with a different/stronger sealer?
Nov 27,
Reply |
| R1:
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
"Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5857: We
have bluestone steps at the front of the house with some old paint
spills. The paint may be exterior latex as well as enamel. How do
we remove this without damaging the stone??Also, is there a way of
cleaning urine stains off a polished marble floor in front of a toilet??
Thanks, Wendy, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Wendy: Use a paint stripper. It should not damage bluestone,
but I encourage you to test it in a small inconspicuous area before
doing the whole thing. About the urine stains removal, are you sure
that they are urine and not toilet bowl cleaner? Do those "stains"
look like dull spots? If so, and if they are really urine, my MB-11
will do the trick for you. If they are toilet bowl cleaner, you would
need most likely the services of a stone restoration contractor. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5856: IS
THARE A WAY TO FILL THE HOLES IN THE TILE THAY LOOK LIKE THARE WAS
AIR POCKETS IN IT PLEASE HELP HAVE MANEY HOLES PHIL, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Phil: Well, it all depends on what kind of tiles you have. Couldn't
you be more specific? Some say that I'm pretty good, but nobody ever
said that I can read minds! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5854: I have tumbled travertine throughout my house--on the floors,
in the bathroom shower, wainscoating,counter top and floors. It has
been sealed with Miraseal. The travertine is now 2 1/2 years old and
the shower is showing a white film on the walls. How do you remove
it and then how do you reseal it. Thank you. Phyllis Nov 27, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Phyllis: The whitish stuff sitting on your walls is most likely soap
film. You need a specific product like my MB-3 to remove it. After
that, I don't think that you need to re-seal your stone. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5853: I
bought a soapstone fountain while visiting Brazil. Unfortunately,
water leaks through the stone and seeps out the bottom. I would like
to buy some type of sealant material to make the bowl part of the
fountain more water proof - do you have any product recommendations?
Angie, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Angie: It wouldn't really matter what product I would recommend to
you. What kind of soapstone is it anyway? Soapstone is the most water-proof
stone available! How can you possibly have the problem you're reporting
if what you have is soapstone? You'd better get hold of a bona fide
stone restoration contractor for consultation. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5852: I have a fireplace that has slate around the mantle and the
foot of the fireplace. The slate was originally painted white. We
stripped all the paint off and we are now left with a very dull luster
to the slate. I have asked numerous 'experts' at home improvement
stores and all have them recommended what I consider highly flammable
products such as linseed oil and butcher's wax.....I would hate to
have a few beautifully polished pieces of slate, with no house.I have
searched the internet and I have not found any site that can answer
my question. I finally figured that I would approach people who know
and understand the properties of slate. Please can you advise me on
my options. Quintus, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Quintus. It is not the nature of slate to take a polish, so a matt
finish is the best you can expect. You can try a color enhancer type
sealer -- this may give your stone more of a "wet look"
Good Luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Quintus: To the best of my knowledge, linseed oil or butcher's
wax are not "highly" flammable, but this in not the point.
The answer to your question is quite simple: if the slate becomes
nice and dark when you wet it with water, then if you apply a good-quality
stone color enhancer like my MB-6 you will solve the problem permanently.
Clean it thoroughly, let it dry completely, than apply the MB-6 and
be a happy camper for years to come! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5851: I am an architect who has a client who has Red Torcicoda granite
countertop in the toilet rooms of his building. The owner has sealed
the granite twice a year with a siloxane type sealer made by Bostic.
The sink is mounted to the underside of the stone. The joint between
the bowl and the top has been sealed. The countertops continue to
water stain around the bowl and fixtures at the countertops that get
the most use where water stands on the stone for most of the day.
No water staining has been observed away from the sink, faucet, and
edge of the stone. What can be done to limit the water staining? Will
a different type of sealer help? Randy, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Randy: "Red Tarcicoda"??? What on earth is that?? :-)
You must be more specific on describing the "water stains"
to me: what do they look like? Are they temporary darker, or do they
look like whitish or dull residues? If the latter is the case, can
they be cleaned easily? Without the answer to that I can't venture
any diagnosis. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5850: I
recently had a granite countertop installed, on Tuesday as a matter
of fact. It is pink and green with some dark grains in it. It has
now developed dark circular areas on the surface. Do you know where
these have come from and how to get rid of them? I tried the lemon
juice test on a sample and the juice did not absorb or leave a mark.
Sarah, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sarah: You must be more detailed with the description of your dark
circular stains. What do they look like? Rings? Solid round things?
Are they perfectly round or just somehow round? Did they develop out
of the blue sky or did you have something sitting on the stone surface
for a while where the mysterious stains are now? Let me know and then
we'll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5849: Can
I put a stone color enhancer on absolute black granite if the penetrating
sealer has already been installed? Serena,
Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
A good black granite does not need any colour enhanser. nor does it
require penetrating sealer.u have some inferior black material but
rest assured the coloured enhansers dont work.Capt. M. Dilip |
| R2:
Dear
Serena: You can try, but if the impregnator previously applied is
any good I doubt that it will work. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5848: Is
this a "Granite" or not? We just purchase and "installed"
this. There are a lot of pits and fissures that I had not noticed.
I apparently did not do my homework. It also seems to flake? How often
should it be sealed and with what? Also, what is an impregnator? It
seems to absorb quite a bit? Did we make a mistake? Help! Shari, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Shari: Is "this" what?? "I apparently did not
do my homework." Yes, is does sound like you didn't! :-) "It
also seems to flake." That's no good, lady! "What is an
impregnator?" An impregnator is a penetrating (below surface)
sealer that's used to clog the pores of the stone in order to dramatically
reduce its absorbency rate. "It seems to absorb quite a bit?"
Well, then you need to impregnate (seal) your "this"! "How
often should it be sealed and with what?" Well, the answer to
"with what" is easy: with my super-duper MB-4 impregnator
for stone, of course! :-) How often? Every 10 years or so if you use
MB-4. Every 2 or 3 years (or less) if you use something else (read
the manufacturer's recommendations on the product's bottle). Maurizio,
Expert panelist |
| Q
5847: What
is the best way to strip wax and/or sealer of green marble...Not sue
exactly what type marble I have. It has white veins but probably isnt
vermont verdi...I used paint remover, and carburator cleaner (experimenting
on a broken piece) it worked, didn't seem to etch, but left the marble
dull looking. I also experimented to see what type marble I have...it
drills ok with hard bits....it doesn't seem to etch with vinegar......muratic
acid out of the bottle does eat up the veins.....Thanks for the help
Ken, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Ken: Mmm … let's see … how about a wax stripper, available
at any janitor supply company?! :-) The reason why the marble is dull
it's probably due to the fact that they never took care of it, which
is probably what triggered the previous owner to put some wax on it!
If I were you I would get hold of a bona fide stone restoration refinisher.
Now, you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle
of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point
of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out
there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the
recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or
your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5846: I
just purchased a home with a tumbled marble backsplash in the kitchen.
The former owner did not grout the installation. How do you grout
this very porous material? Jim, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Jim?: About "this very porous material" I don't know. About
grouting your tumble marble you could use … mmmm, let's see …
grout, maybe?! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5845: I
am having a kitchen designed and I am interested in a slate countertop
and flooring. What are some advantages/disadvantages in working with
slate over marble or granite. Steve,Canada, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Steve: Advantages? None whatsoever. Disadvantages? Too many to list!
You don't want marble, either! Go with granite! But you'd better watch
out: do you know what "granite" to chose and what criteria
should you follow for your choice? Furthermore, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"? I did write a very
comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5844: I
am interested in putting granite countertops in my home. I have three
small children. I was told that because granit is porous bacteria
can get into the granit and spread. Is this accurate? Suzzane,
Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Suzzane. Hope you are not walking around with a limp these days,
as your leg has been severely pulled. This is one of those bogus myths
perpetuated by the sellers of solid surface countertops who are seeing
their business erode to the natural stone industry. Go for the granite
if that is what you want, but I certainty suggest doing your homework
before selecting a stone and fabricator. Good luck, JVC |
| R2:
Dear
Suzanne: Not only is it not accurate, but it is the opposite! It's
a vicious lie sprad around by the manufacturers of solid plastic (oops,
I meant: solid surfaces - whatever that means) material, such as Corian
® and the likes to try to limit the damage! Commercial granite
is much more attractive, a much better material, and cost virtually
the same! Not a nice war to be in!! Go with granite! But you'd better
watch out: do you know what "granite" to chose and what
criteria should you follow for your choice? Furthermore, what's a
good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"? Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5843: I
am currently installing Desert Gold (color) 12 x 12 tile with marble
and granite mortar in a front foyer over an underlayment of Hardibacker.
I have installed about 10 tile and have noticed that some of the tile
seem darker than others. I understand that granite needs sealed; but
does it need sealed before installation or after? I am halting any
more installation until I discover the cause & seriousness of
this color variance. I am wondering if the cause could also be from
uneven mortar distribution. I would appreciate any assistance you
could give me. Thank you.Carey, Nov
27, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carey: Desert Gold (an Orthogneiss from
India) is an extremely absorbent stone. The darkening you notice is
the moisture of the thin-set material being absorbed upward. If you
used white thin-set the darkening will disappear in a matter of a
few days. If you used regular gray thin-set, they you may have a permanent
discoloration. The fact that the darkening is not uniform is either
due to the fact that the stone is not absorbent in an uniform way,
or that there's no full contact between the tile and the setting material.
About the impregnating (sealing) issue, impregnating before installation
would make things worse by slowing down somehow the drying process.
Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5842: I am currently building a new home and looking at kitchens.
I have come across a second hand kitchen which is quite new and which
has very "dark blue" granite per the owner but which looks
black. (they are demolishing the house). There is enough marble there
to suit my purposes but which would need to be re-configured with
probably one or two cuts needed. Is it difficult to get such cuts
made? what is a straight cut likely to cost? Alternatively what would
I expect to pay for a new marble bench top measuring approximately
6 linear metres with good quality marble? Sorry if i sound too dumb.
Tony, Nov 27, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Tony. So which is it -- Marble or granite??? The only thing
marble and granite have in common is that they both polish. Educate
your self about the differences before deciding on a stone for your
kitchen. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear
Tony: There's no way I could answer your question. (But don't worry,
you don't sound too dumb!) The only thing I can tell you is that you
do NOT want to attempt to do the job yourself! Get hold of a reputable
local fabrication facility and consult with them. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5841: We
recently installed a tile backsplash in the kitchen, but the grout
dried very light in some areas, and dark in other areas. Can you tell
me what caused the tile to dry different shades, and is there a way
to even out the color? One other problem is that I have color-matched
sanded caulk for control joints and the grout needs to match this
color. Any suggestions? Carl,
Nov 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Carl: I don't know much about grout. I do know, however, that there
are special stains for grout, in all sorts of colors, that work great!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5840: I
am interested in the care of a granite countertop and what you can
and cannot do on the countertop...ie. cutting, hot plates, etc. thank
you. Bob,Nov
21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Bob: Cutting is never advisable as a practice (occasionally is no
big deal). Hot plates or pots are not a problem. About the rest, my
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation are available
for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the side bar menu of
this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts"). Or you can
go directly into the "Maurizio's Products" link and order
some MB-5 and MB-13. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
R2:
if
you install the right type of granite, i am not mentioning the colour
of it here, your knife will get blunt often when using on granite
so keep some money aside for sharpening them regularly.
excess heat is bound to affect the granite top so be careful what
heating equipment you use on top of granite.
a microwave is ok. but not a hot plate or a stove. if you use a stove
see the heat radiates upwards and not onto the granite top.otherwise
if you do your homework well and choose a good sturdy granite...you
can fix and forget it. Capt dilip
|
| |
| Q
5838: I
have a marble bathroom countertop. that has a burn mark (stain) on
it. can I take and sand this out and then buff it and apply a clear
coat. what do you suggest. the color is white. Boom, Nov 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Boom: To start with, are you sure that you have real marble and not
cultured marble? The reason why I ask that is because it is not easy
to make a burn mark on real marble, while it is quite easy to do it
on cultured (which is plastic). What also makes me doubt that you
have true marble is your mention of the application of a clear coat
over it. You don't do that on marble! If you have real marble, only
a stone restoration contractor could help you out. If you have cultured
marble, I don't know. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5837:We installed an Absolute Black Granite island for a customer.
The dimentions are 4 ft by 8 ft x 2 cm. The customer has advised us
that the granite is cracking. There are no holes in the granite top.
However, there is a microwave mounted in the island cabinet below.
Do you know of any complications that might be caused by the heat
from a microwave? We are trying to find the cause of the crack. Any
information you can give us is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Staci,
Nov 20,
Reply
|
| R1:
Unless there is an existing crack the heat from
the microwave will not affect the counter top. especially since it
is black.just check if there had been a inherent crack which has been
sealed by the seller, Capt. M. Dilip |
| R1:
Dear Staci: The little heat coming out of a microwave oven has not
one single chance in the world to crack black granite (or any other
granite, for that matter). There must be some stress points on the
top of the cabinetry that were not attended when the countertop was
installed. That's the only reason why it could crack. I'm sorry, it's
your responsibility. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5836: We are restoring our home that was built in 1863. The fireplace
has not been used in a very long time. I am worried about the tiles
on it. They are blue and make a pattern. It looks like hollyhocks.
Each picking up where the last one left off. The pattern is also raised.
None are broken but have shifted. How do I find out about these tiles?
Have searched the internet with no results. Also how do I find someone
that can make this fireplace workable again? We live in a small town.
Any ideas would be totally appreciated. Bell,
Nov 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Bell. Can't tell you a thing about your tiles, but do know from watching
the "Antique Roadshow " that they could be valuable.On the
other hand, putting the fireplace back in working order is going to
require the services of a master mason. Not just a competent brick
or rock layer, but someone who is knowlegable about fireplace construction
and the inner workings of the fireplace. Having been buillt in 1863,
your fireplace will not look familiar to a mason only versed in modern
construction, and you may find that it was origionally built for coal
rather than cord wood. You do not mention where in the world you are
located, but you can get in touch with me through this website, and
I will do what I can to answer specific questions you might have,
Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
5835: I
am remodeling my bathroom and want a tiled steam shower. What material
would you recommend for me to use in the steam shower, the bathroom
floors, and the vanity in the new York area? I am open to using complementary
materials. I want something that will look elegant but easy to maintain.
I saw a steam shower using slate. Is this advisable? Will it be hard
to clean because it is not smooth? What about mildew? Nov
20, Reply
|
|
R1:
Only domestic slate (from New England) could
be suitable in a steam shower. Every other slate would be a monumental
NO-NO! Besides New England slate or granite, no natural stone would
be advisable in a steam shower stall. About proper maintenance procedures,
you're right to be concerned. But good help is NOT so hard to get
these days! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA.
|
| Q
5834: Can
you educate me on the black galaxy granite. I'm having my kitchen
redone and am thinking of doing my counters with it. My friend tells
me it is high maintenance - you can see marks and rings if you don't
clean right away. The vendor told me to have it sealed before it was
installed -however on your website I read it is not a good idea. Please
clarify, I love the stone but do not want to be sorry later as I have
three children, youngest being 6. Please reply ASAP as I have already
placed the order, incase I need to change to another color. My cabinets
are maple with chocolate glaze - do you have other stone colors to
suggest? Thank you. Pam.Nov
20, Reply
|
| |
| R1:
Dear Pam: I have Black Galaxy for over 8 years now in my (extremely
busy) "Italian" kitchen and it's still brand new! Sure,
you have to keep it clean … So what? Would you leave it dirty
if it were another material? :) The beauty of it is that it will "tell"
you right away if it's cleaned or not. With our previous countertop
(Formica) we could never tell! One of the primary reasons why our
Black Galaxy is so low maintenance is because I never applied an impregnator/sealer
to it (not even my own MB-4). If you have it sealed, then you may
have all sorts of maintenance related problems (the marks and rings
that your friend is making reference to). Be adamant about it: tell
your fabricator in no-uncertain terms to go seal his sister's countertop,
not yours! Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the
proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5833:We had our limestone flooring installed 18moths throughout much
of our 1st level of our new home. Soon we will have it re-sealed.
How often should this be done and what else if anything do we need
to do to it? How about high traffic areas? Nov
20, Reply
|
| R1:
"How
often should this be done" It depends from the manufacturer's
recommendation. Poor quality impregnator/sealers need to be applied
every year or so. Good-quality ones (like my MB-4) every 10 years
or better. "What else if anything do we need to do to it? "
You betcha that there's "what else"! Maintenance of natural
stone is a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users
tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular
glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed
of light!). Don't become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5832: I need to know what a 8x8x16 block of limestone weighs. That
way I can calculate how many tons I need.Thanks, Aida, Nov
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Aida. a block of limestone this size can weigh anywhere between 75
to 90 lbs depending on the density of the stone. Limestone is typically
between 130 and 150 lbs per cubic foot. JVC, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
5831:We own our home and are remodeling our kitchen. We bought travertine
tile, without really knowing it and trusted the source we bought from.
It's beautiful, but an installer told us it is limestone and quoted
us $3,000 to install it - it's a 300 sq. ft. kitchen. Said it will
scratch easily, suggested we use it for our bathrooms instead. I called
the lady we bought it from and she told us it's travertine tile and
would not have sold it to us if she thought it would not hold up in
our kitchen, a high traffic area. Should we be that concerned and
nervous about scatching? Is this that difficult to install over ceramic
tile that the cost of installation would be as high as $3000?
April,
Nov 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Said it will scratch easily". Not that easily. My real concern
is the finish of those travertine tiles. If it's a hone finish, then
it's okay to have them in a kitchen. If they are polished, you do
NOT want them in there! "Is this that difficult to install over
ceramic tile that the cost of installation would be as high as $3000?"
Yes. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
|
| Q
5830: I
stumbled onto our site today while researching honed granite tile.
Boy, am I glad I found it. It's clear that there are many downsides
to honed black granite tile (which I was hoping to use on our kitchen
countertops). You mentioned that a color enhancer is available. Do
you sell that? I reallylike the unshiny appearance of the honed granite
but don't want to mess with the stain problems. We haven't bought
the honed tile yet -- do you suggest I buy the honed tile and use
the color enhancer, or would we be better off starting over and looking
for something else? Appreciate any information you have. Nov
20, Reply
|
| R1:
My "best-in-the-entire-planet" MB-6 - Stone Color Enhancer
is available through the link: Maurizio's Products that you can find
in the side bar menu of this very page. About your final question,
what do you expect me to say? If I tell you to get something else
I'd be losing a sale! :-) No, joke aside, if black honed granite is
color enhanced is not going to be too bad to maintain (with my MB-5,
of course!). Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5829: We are building a new house & have chosen a black granite
for the kitchen benches - I do not know if this is honed or polished
( whichever is the cheaper I imagine). Can you let me know how this
will stand up to kitchen wear and tear - is there anything I can do
to protect it? We are also having marble placed in the hallway - the
tiler isn't sealing them but I have read about a Marble & stone
sealer you can get applied - you can do it yourself or get someone
in to do it. Which would you recommend - is it easy to apply? Also,
it says a few hours between coats - but I have read you should wait
at least 24 hours. Eagerly awaiting your advice, Alison, Nov
20, Reply
|
R1:
Good black granite does not need any colour enhanser or selant.
it is sturdy, robust and long lasting and does not fade.go ahead and
use black granite but be careful to choose a good quality one from
a good quality supplier. you will never regret your choice. Capt.
M. Dilip |
| R2:
Dear Alison: Well, you can tell if your black granite is shiny of
dull, can't you? Price has nothing to do with the type of surface
finish you have. If it's honed (dull), you want to consider applying
a good quality stone color enhancer (like my MB-6) to minimize the
horrible maintenance issue attached to honed black granite. If it
is polished (shiny) then don't do a thing. Above all, do NOT apply
an impregnator/sealer, not even my MB-4! Finally, do not bother applying
an impregnator/sealer in your marble tiles. Marble is not very absorbent
and woin't take much of the stuff in to begin with, Most importantly,
an impregnator/sealer will do absolutely nothing to protect marble
from the most common "stains" occurring to it (chemical
etching, that is). Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5828:Yesterday my husband and I had emerald pearl granite counters
installed in our kitchen -- but over the course of teh last 24 hours
we have discovered a problem. We have a U-shaped kitchen. When you
stand in the center of the kitchen some of the granite tops absolutely
dance with those beautiful reflective flecks and some appear very
dark with only the occasional fleck. All of the granite came from
the same lot but here's the problem: We ducked our heads under some
of the cabinets with a bright light and looked at the dark countertops
from the other direction and they instantly dazzled us with sparkly
reflective flecks just like the sparkly parts of the kitchen. It appears
to us that some of the counters were cut going in one direction where
the reflective beauty of the emerald pearl is visible and the rest
were cut in the opposite direction so that the most beautiful angle
of the granite faces the wall and will never be seen. It makes it
appear to be very unmatched as you glance around the kitchen. It never
occurred to us to tell the fabricator to cut it all going in the same
direction (and we'd certainly prefer it all to be cut so that teh
beautiful sparkly side shows) -- we assumed that would be done but
it wasn't -- so here we are $8000 later and we are both very unhappy
with it. My question is: Is there a standard procedure that fabricators
should follow to cut granites in the same direction so that whatever
visual effects the granite creates are the same when viewed from the
center of the room? We realize that granite is a product of nature
and no two areas will be identical by any means but our fabricator
installed sparkly bright pieces butted up against dark, dull pieces
(that would've sparkled had they been cut in the reverse direction)
and it looks very unmatched. What should we do now? Thanks, A. Webb
USA, Nov 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear A. Webb: "Is there a standard procedure that fabricators
should follow to cut granites in the same direction?" No, unfortunately
there isn't. "What should we do now? " My first reaction
would be to tell you to … suck it up, but when I read postings
like yours I'm not in the mood to be funny. I'm truly sorry to hear
what happened. The only piece of advice I can give you is to be very
diplomatic about it and try to "nicely" work things out
with your fabricator. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
R2:
It
is normal procedure to cut a granite block all in the same direction.(for
you info it is not easy to cut a block weighing upwards of 40 tons
in different direction.) in fact they are just sliced like you slice
bread. while fixing the fabricator has to take care to fix slabs from
same block, same slab. these are then fixed facing the same direction.
may be one of the slabs have been inadvertantly fixed in different
directions. colour and streak matching has to be done while fixing.
but the nature of emerald pearl stone is that different specks sparkle
in different directions. if you walk in front of a slab of emerald
pearl (a fairly big slab) you will understand my point well. as you
walk across it you will notice each speckle sparkling and fading as
you move. its the nature of that granite and that is why it made you
$8000 poorer. so rather than complain enjoy the beauty. all the best,
Capt. M. Dilip |
| Q
5827:We have just put in a paver patio, we have grease spots from
our grill, and a spot from candle wax. How can we get these spots
removed? PLEASE HELP. Tracy, Nov
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Tracy: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to
do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5826: I
was recently cleaning a wall with TSP (Trisodium Phosphate ?) and
got numerous drops on the granite floor which I didn't find for several
hours.I cannot remove the spots. Please help.Syliva, Nov
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sylvia: And I could I possibly help you? Unfortunately you need the
services of a proven stone restoration professional (Yellow Pages:
Marble & Terrazzo Cleaning). Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5825:We have kitchen counter tops with a pink and black granite, or
something we think to be granite. We often put the newspapers there
before thrwoing them out, as well as other written materials. Guess
what? We can now do some reading, direct from the counter top. It
looks like blue ink writing has been absorbed into the rock, like
a tatoo. Any ideas about how to remove it? Once removed, if possible,
what's the best product for caring for or protecting the surface?
Nov 20,
Reply |
| R1:
I would try to put a Playboy centerfold on it!! :-) Joke aside, when
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
"stains", and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5824: I have heard of many different ways to lay travertine floors.
Can I lay travertine the way I would lay regular tile, without spaces
between each piece? If I use regular filled/honed travertine, is it
advisable to use in hallways, bathrooms, and living areas? Thanks
Trib, Nov
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Trib: "Can I lay travertine the way I would lay regular tile?"
No, you can't. "without spaces between each piece?" No,
it would be a big mistake! Now, remember, it's never too early to
think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's
all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site's postings, you're not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer. Don't become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
Q
5823: I
live in an apartment where the bathroom floor is Giallo Supreme (Light).
Due to a leak in the toilet cistern, the granite floor is soaked with
the flush water. The flush water is filtered sea water. After the
fixing the leak, the floor was left to dry. White crystals (probably
from the salt in the sea water) are forming on the surface which are
almost impossible to remove. The surface is no longer smooth. The
crystals seems to be cracking the surface of the stone as well. The
stone is still dark from the flush water. I'm using a dehumidifier
and a sun lamp in the bathroom to try to get
the water to evaporate faster. How can I get the stone to dry and
remove the white crystals? Thanks. B Ling,
Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear B Ling: it's quite an unusual situation and I wouldn't know what
to tell you without actually seeing the stone. I would urge you to
get hold of a bona fide stone restoration company and consult with
them. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5822:I have flagstone paths in my very shady yard. Algea has grown
on the stones, turning them green in some areas. Is it okay to use
a bleach solution for this? All I know about the type of stone is
that it's called "Oklahoma flagstone". Thanks, Dale, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Dale: You shouldn't have any problem, but it's always best to try
in a small area first. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5820: I
would very much like to use Travertine Chiaro 4x4's for my kitchen
backsplash. I do not want to fill the holes, crevices, and voids.
I am told this would not be a good thing. That grease and food around
the stove would get into the stone. Rendering a breeding ground for
bacteria, causing odor. Is this true? If so is there a substitute
stone that has similar color tone of Light Travertine? Thanks for
your kind assistance in advance, Don, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Don: Yes it's true. Unfilled travertine in a backsplash is not advisable.
There are a few tumbled marble with more or less the same color. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
Q
5819: I
clean houses on the side, and just got an opportunity to clean for
a new home with 12 bathrooms and all limestone flooring on the 1st
level.
However, after the floor was sealed, I cleaned the floor and it still
looks like grout or grime all over the stone. To me, it doesn't look
clean at all. Any solutions on what I could suggest? Thanks Dorothy
N.J. Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Dorothy: Without seeing it I can't venture any guess. Limestone can
be so different! The good new is that you live and operate in NJ!
We could get together and I could take a look at that stone for you.
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5817: We
just had a kitchen counter installed with Giallo Venecia (not Giallo
Veneciano). It looks good, but it has pockmarks and a small sample
stained when I left olive oil on it. Any suggestions? Gerry,
Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Gerry: No suggestions about the "pockmarks". (What on earth
are those, anyway?). About preventing staining, your stone has to
be sealed with my "best-of-then-all" MB-4, Impregnator/sealer!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5815: I
love your website. I am hoping you can help me out with my black granite
floor. We moved to our condo recently and I don't know what kind of
granite I have. I absolutely cannot find a solution to clean the floor
without spotting. I have tried a steamer, mop with warm water (all
kinds of mops). I have resolved to cleaning the floor by hand - tile
by tile (very large space). There has got to be an easy way to clean
the footprints, dirt, etc and not leave water spots. I hope you have
any solution! I will do/pay anything not to have to clean by hand.
lynn, Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Lynn: Well, you don't have to pay "anything"! Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5813: I
recently took a trip to Italy and Picked up some rough cut marble
pieces in Carrara, Italy. I got them as display pieces and I would
like to know how, if it is possible, to polish them smooth and to
get a nice shine by hand, and where could I get the tools to do so.
Any assistance you could provide would be appreciated. Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Are you ready to spend approximately $450.00 to purchase what
you need? If so, let me know. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5812: I
am having a problem with a large quantity of limestone which has already
been installed but not sealed. Most of the tiles are displying yellowing
around the eadges, some are yellowing over the entire suface. We have
also wittnessed yellowing of tiles that have not been installed but
have been exposed to moisture. Do you know of a way to remove the
yellowing from the installed stone? John, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
john: This is but one reason why I always tell people to stay away
from limestone: like Forrest Gump's mom used to say: "It's like
a box of chocolate … you never know what you're gonna get!"
That particular stone must be rich in iron minerals and it's just
rusting away! I have no solution to that problem, but I'm sure that
the knowledgeable merchants who sold it to you and got your money
will know what to do! (oh, you'll need plenty of that!!) Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5810: We want to put travertine floors in our house and have been
shopping around and have found conflicting information about which
travertine is better quality: Turkish or Mexican travertine...what
is the difference? Brian, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Brian: The difference is that the Turkish travertine is quarried in
Turkey, while the Mexican one is quarried in Mexico! Just stay away
from the Durango white (the darker color is quite all right). All
the rest, Mexican or Turkish are terrific stones! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5809: I
have limestone in my bathroom, Is it ok to clean my shower and tub,
etc., with vinegar or ammonia or a mix of the two diluted with water?
Thank you.. Karen, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Karen: No, it is not. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
Q
5808: I
just remodeled my kitchen and added granite. The granite has visible
scratches in several areas. You can actually feel these scratches.
Some are long and others short and they go in different directions.
The pattern of the scratches is irregular.
My question....is this normal? My contractor says the fabricator can't
or won't do anything about it other than fabricating two new pieces.
I don't want to have to rip it out since my travertine backspash is
already up. Is there anything I can do to "fix" it myself?
Any sort of sanding, etc.I sure would appreciate your advise.
Sim, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
sim: No, it is not normal. The reason why the fabricator will not
do anything about it other than replacing the slabs is because they
don't know how to surface-finish granite on the field. It takes a
proven and highly-trained stone restoration professional to accomplish
that. Doing it yourself? Don't even think about it! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
Q
5807: I just stumbled on this site! i am building a new house and
want
1) limestone countertops in the kitchen
2) limestone backsplash in the kitchen
3) marble or onyx for the kitchen island
4) jerusalem limestone for the kitchen flooring
my kitchen designer tells me i am crazy (in so many words). they are
pushing porcelain floors for the kitchen, caesarstone countertops,
granite countertops, and granite island. i hae no children and will
not hae a heaily used kitchen. please advise whether you think my
choices are doable, kathleen, Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathleen: Doable? I don't know. I can't evaluate the future use
of every single kitchen out there, of course! I can only say that
the stones you have listed give me creeps if I figure them in a kitchen!
After that, it's your call! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| |
| Q
5804:I have St. Cecilia granite countertops in the kitchen that I
love. A pink paper post it note became wet & now I have a pink
stain that I need to remove. Please advise the best method for stain
removal. I have never had any problems in the past & the granite
is 10 months old. Thanks, Rhonda, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Rondha: It's an inorganic stain. It shouldn't be difficult to remove
it. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
"Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5803:We are in the process of redoing our kitchen countertops. We
were thinking of a Silestone, Cambria, etc product but a contractor
said that Silestone and its cousins (quartz plus polymer) will melt
if you put a torch to it where as Granite will not burn or melt and
that we really needed Granite and it would be more durable and less
expensive. I need a third party to step in and tell me what the true
story is., Richard, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Richard: I tend to agree with your contractor. The only real advantage
of having a manmade material like engineered stone is that it's predictable
all the time, regardless of the color. Not so with commercial granites,
alas! But that should not discourage you (or anybody else) from considering
natural stone, opposed to engineered one. After all it is not too
difficult to choose the "right granite". Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5802: I'm
currently looking into Emerald Pearl for kitchen countertops. Any
opinion on this selection? Is there a potential difference in the
quality of the slab or granite between 2 different sellers? I was
told this by one contractor who is charging more than another. Thx
for your input! Sandy, Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandy: As far as I am concerned Emerald
Pearl is two thumbs up in my book! About what you've been told, yes,
it is a distinct possibility. However, the most important thing in
the whole picture is the fabricator. How good is a wonderful piece
of stone in hands of some "Michelangelo"? Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5801: I
am a homeowner who is planning a bathroom renovation. I live in an
older home with a small bathroom (7 X 8 ft.). As I view magazines
and home decor places I have developed a vision of the type of look
I want. It seems I'm attracted to the various 'stones'. However, I'm
having trouble getting information that allows me to compare the characteristics
of the various types. I'm interested in knowing more about granite,
limestone, slate, marble, synthetic marble, corian, etc. I'd like
to know the pros and cons of each (eg. I know some are more porous,
more likely to stain, need sealers - but which ones and to what degree?).
And of course, price will be a factor. A chart summarizing all of
this would be great, if I could find one. Can you direct me to a source
of information on these materials? Thank you, Susan, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: Not such animal, to the best of
my knowledge. However, if you don't trust the stone knowledge of the
merchant you ultimately will be giving your hard-earned money to,
you could always use my consultation services. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| Q
5800: I
own a stone restoration company in Tx. I recently took a call from
a lady who complains of pitting Granite. The stone is african red
and there is about 68 ft of it. Is there any procedure of product
you would recomend to fill the pits with???? If so how would you recomend
i apply it? Tim,
Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Tim: First you thank the lady for her interest in your services, and
then you run from that job!! I'd like to know more about you, Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5799: I
have new "green" limestone countertops and they have no
sealant on them. I have tried several different sealers (silicon,
latex, also linseed, vegetable, and mineral oil) on samples. Each
acheive different shades of color and sealant qualities. Which product
offers the highest degree of protection with the least amount of dark
shading. They are beautiful the way they are, but I don't wish to
ruin them by using something that may not thoroughly seal them in
an effort to keep a lighter coloration. Thanks Mark , Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Mark: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the side
bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts").
Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's Products" link
and order some MB-4 impregnator/sealer (it will do a terrific job
at sealing your stone without altering the original shade of color
or surface finish), and some MB-5 for routine maintenance. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5798:I take it that you do not think that slate is necessarily a good
all-purpose stone. My wife and I would like to replace the flooring
in our home, and we like the look of slate. We would prefer to use
the same flooring in the kitchen as we use in the rest of the house.
Also, we would prefer to use something that is extremely durable and
requires little maintenance, as we may rent the house out in a couple
of years. Would you recommend slate? Or, is there another product
that you recommend? We are not interested in carpet or any tiles that
look overly manmade. Thank you for your help.Will, Nov
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Will: If you're interested in a low-maintenance product, slate is
not going to fit your bill, that's for sure! If you like the look
slate but want to overcome the maintenance issue, look into porcelain
tiles that look like slate. They are terrific and virtually bullet-proof!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5797: We
are considering using a travertine called Durango for our master bathroom
on the floors counters and shower. How does it wear with water, soap,
hairspray, etc. If this is the wrong product for a bathroom can you
recommend something that is better with the same look? Thank you,
Karen, Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Karen: There are two different types of Durango Travertine: one whitish
and the other one of a darker color. The former is garbage, the latter
is quite all right.I love travertine! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5796:Could you send me your granite countertop maintenance guidelines
? I had Giallo Veneziano installed in May. They sealed it when they
installed it and I have resealed it myself. I have been polishing
it about twice a month which helps. My problem is when you look at
it from an angle it looks spotty but when you get up close to view
these spots they are the "shiny pieces" in the stone and
some feel rough to touch...I would like a nice smooth shine all over.
Nov 19,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
: You would like a nice smooth shine all over? Sure, and so would
everybody else! Just dream on: you ain't gonna get that with Giallo
Veneziano! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
Q
5795: I
am going to purchase blue spphire granite for my kitchen countertop.
Does it need to be sealed? Different places are telling me different
things. One place says that they do it the first day and then I would
need to follow it up for two consecutive days. Then once a year. Other
places say that blue sapphire does not need a sealant. Another place
( which I am very interested in ) says that they put a new product
on which seals it for life. They guarantee that nothing will happen
to the granite. That seems like a great idea but I am concerned about
a dulling effect. I looked at one person's finished product and it
looked a bit duller than granite not touched with this stuff. I do't
know whether to get the permanent sealant or not.Could you give me
some insight on my problem? I don't know what to do.Thank you. Emma,
Nov 19,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Emma: Unless I am mistaking it with something else, Blue Sapphire
may turn out to be more trouble than you can handle for reasons that
have nothing to do with the absorbency rate of the stone. But quite
honestly I'm not totally sure. That is why I always recommend to run
my little "lemon juice test"! About the once in a lifetime
sealing procedure, it has reached my attention that the resining process
has been made available to fabrication facilities, while before it
was only available to high-tech specialized factories. While I am
in favor of the resining process per se, I'm not totally convinced
that the procedure available to the fabrication outfits will perform
like the one used by the specialized factories. But then again, I
can't make any final statement on this subject. Regardless of all
that, I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be
differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| |
| Q
5792: I recently had a 16' by 16' Pennsylvania blue stone patio installed
in my backyard. I live in Pennsylvania. The patio sits on a concrete
pad; stone joints are mortared with a dyed mortar to blend with the
stone color. Here's my question: I like the look of the stones much
more when it's raining. I like the rich, dark and glossy look the
rain brings to the patio. What kinds of sealer would give me this
kind of finish? A friend thought that a sodium silicate sealer might
be one option. And what, if any, are the downsides to it and other
sealers:--Do these sealers peel off or, preferably, wear off? --How
long do they last?, --And are they slippery? --Your thoughts please.Thanks,
Marley, Nov 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marley:
I personally don't like topical hard-shell sealer. I believe you would
be much better off by applying a good-quality stone color enhancer
(like my MB-6). These type of products are below-surface sealers and,
as such, won't peel off or alter in any way the natural degree of
slipperiness of the stone. They will just make it as dark as when
it's wet. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5791: I
JUST SPENT 9,500 DOLLAR IN MY BATHROOM, I HAD THE CONTRACTOR PUT AN
ABSOLUTE BLACK GRANITE FLOOR, BUT I HAVE A 12YR OLD SON WHO GETS UP
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT TO URINATE AND MISSES THE BOWL 8 OUT OF
10 TIMES IN THE MORNING I HAVE SPOTS ON THE FLOOR THAT I CAN,T. GET
OUT PLEASEEEEEEEEE HELP ME. MONTY, Nov
19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Monty: Your black granite was either "doctored" by the factory,
or your setter applied an impregnator/sealer on it. The solution is
pretty easy and, I'm sure, your dealer and contractor (those who got
your 9.5K that is) will know it quite well. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| Q
5790:We have a walkway made of Pa. Bluestone that is about 10 years
old. A sealer was never applied when new. What is the best way or
what product can we use to clean the walkway? The stone seems to have
a lot of ground-in dirt. Thanks for any help you can give us, sim,
Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear sim: You could pwer-wash it with a solution of water and my MB-9
(3:1). My consumer products are available through the link "Maurizio's
products" on the side bar menu of this very page. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5789: My
husband was spraying our fence with Cabot Pacific Redwood (clear but
tinted) wood stain, however he forgot to mask off our new flagstone
pathway and the overspray is all over the flagstone. Do you have ANY
ideas for us to try to clean the stain off the stone? Shaun, Nov 18,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Shaun: If the staining agent was absorbed by the stone I'm afraid
it's not possible to remove it. Your best bet is to consult with the
manufacturer of the wood stain on what kind of chemical to use to
possibly remove the stain. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5787: We
just had 1100 square feet of travertine stone tile flooring installed.
We are thinking of renting a buffing machine to polish the floor,
do we need to use a wax or other compound along with the machine?
Do we buff it before we seal it or buff after sealing, Shari, Nov
18, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Shari: Whoa, hold your horses! What on earth are you talking
about? What is this polish/seal/buff business all about? Why do you
want to polish you travertine tiles? Weren't they polished off the
box already? And if they weren't, why did you buy with a hone-finish
travertine tile if you like your floor shiny? Polishing? Do you have
any idea what you're talking about? I hold classed on stone polishing
and only 3 out of 10 of my students will ever make it in the real
world! (Well, maybe I am a lousy teacher! :)) Do you really think
you can just go out, rent a floor machine and start polishing away
without any serious training? I feel truly sorry for your travertine!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5785: I
am desperate to get oil stain off my terracotta kitchen floor tiles,
and would also like to know once ive removed the oil how i go about
treating the tiles, i am based in surrey uk please help me many thanks
Gio, Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gio: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from "stains", and what to
do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5784: I
have a quick question concerning travertine floor tile, inside a house,
installed with a thin-set mortar on a concrete slab-on-grade. If the
travertine became saturated with surface water, could the water cause
the travertine tiles to crack. If so, how? Thanks for your help,Greg,
Nov 18,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Greg: Cracking is unlikely, but you could have different problems
(effluorescence and mold) if you have migration of moisture through
the core of the stone. A water-proof membrane should have been applied
on the cement slab before thin setting. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5783: After
looking at your information on cleaning and sealing and preventing
stains, etc etc, I'm worrying that using granite may be more trouble
than it's worth. My contractor is very trustworthy and knows what
he is doing. Originally he wanted to use laminate on the counters
and granite on the island, but I wanted to use corian on the counters.
He said corian is not worth the price and that granite is much much
better, so we've decided to use granite everywhere. What should I
ask my contractor about the granite he will be using. I have already
selected the color, and the granite comes from Ontario, Fran,
Nov 18, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Fran: Oh, I love your contractor: he's soooo very right!! All the
Canadian granites I know of are excellent stones, but I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5782: My
husband and I have just "discovered" that we have a slate
entry to our new home of two years (it was covered over with some
type of Formica-looking flooring). Anyway, it's in pretty good shape,
but very dark and dirty looking, but I think it's been sealed. The
colors are a combination of maroon, blue-green, and terra cotta. I
tried using a household cleaner on it, and some of the sealer came
off, but not all. I would like to remove the sealer that's on there
now and re-seal. What can I use to remove the sealer? Thanks, M. Paul,
Nov 18,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Paul: I don't know. Using a wax stripper is the first thing that comes
to my mind (available at any janitor supply company), but certain
slates react in some pretty weird (and permanent) ways to harsh chemicals.
If you could try in a small inconspicuous area … Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5781: I could not find reference in your long list of articles referring
to GialloFiorito. Is this a good choice for a kitchen counter top?
Is it even real granite? I have eliminated all the lighter colors
like Kasmir gold, venetian gold and golden oak. The more I read the
more I learn from yourgreat website. Thanks for providing this assistance.
Gisela, Nov
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Gisela: I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may
be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5780: I
have had a slate floor layed in the kitchen and the floor tiles seem
to be different depths creating an uneven surface is this correct?
Many thanks, Sarah, Nov
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Sarah: If you notice the "lips" it must be pretty bad. Is
this correct, you ask? Not in my book it ain't! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5779:I have a question for you. I have Giallo Venezia countertops
in the kitchen. It appears to be fairly porous, as water under glasses
turn leave a dark ring. The ring does go away. I notice the absobency
is about .25 % vs. around .1% for blue pearl.Bottom line - should
I seal this granite, John,
Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
John: You bet you should! And with my "best-of-them-all"
MB-4 impregnator, of course, and … or else! :-) Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5778: We have just purchased travertine flooring and it is sealed
but not polished. We recently mopped it and the mop left its marks.
How do you mop travertine correctly? What do you recommend we use
to mop it? Pwin,Nov
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Pwin: It is not really a question of how to mop a floor properly.
I am afraid that the real issue is the impregnator/sealer that was
not applied properly. Meaning that whoever applied it on the stone
did not remove the residue of the product off the stone surface. It's
not gonna be easy to do it now, I can tell you that! Have the contractor
who applied the sealer take care of that. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5777: We
have so few granite dealers and installers here. I have chosen a dealer
and color, and am wondering about the proper preparation to install
granite countertops and island. It will be a remodel. I want about
a 12" overhang on island to accomodate stools. Will that be too
much. Also, I looked at a few complaints about granite on your site,
and saw that improper support contributes to problems. What should
I be looking for in proper installation and support? I know you should
trust your dealer, but with so few choices I'm not sure who to trust.
My $$$$ are depending on you. I had to talk real hard to get my husband
to cough up the bucks for this, and now I'm a little scared! Debbie,
Nov 18,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Debbie: A 12" overhand will need to be properly supported with
metal braces or corbels. Other than that, if the installation is done
properly, you will enjoy your countertop for years to come! I can't
go into the technicalities of every single aspect of the installation,
but I consider it wise for you to invest a little $12 before having
DH coughing out the big dough! . Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5776:We are remodeling a bathroom and ordered a granite "uba
tuba" countertop. When it arrived, it appears that there is a
chip "indentation" in the front of the sink area. The deliveryman
said this is normal for stone and "uba tuba." Is this correct?
Linda,
Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Linda: Nope, it ain't normal. But then again, define "normal"!
Have the fabricator fix the chip. THAT is normal! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5773: I am needing info about Saturina floors. My mother's home is
completely floored in this. The tiles are aproximately 12 x 12. They
are rough looking with natural "holes" in them. The floors
are not sealed and the tiles are not sealed together. She needs to
know what she can use to clean them with that won't discolor, Cha,
Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cha: If there are natural holes on those tiles, it's not Saturnia:
it's just plain unfilled travertine. That fact that the tiles are
not sealed (with an impregnator/sealer) doesn't bother me. What does
bother me is that she has no grout on that floor. That's plain no
good and may lead to problems. About the routine cleaning, nothing
beats my MB-1! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5772: My
contractor advised against granite (which I have my heart set on)
because he said it can crack and be ruined easily. He described one
situation where the owner stood on the countertops to change a lightbulb.
Is this true. I guess you shouldn't stand on the countertops, although
I have done it in the past. If you don't stand on it, is it prone
to breaking? Linda,
Nov 18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: Well, of course, if you won't get out of the house there
are better chances that you're not going to get involved in a car
accident. But then again, the roof could collapse on your head. So,
maybe, you should consider going to live in the middle of nowhere,
in a cave or something. But then again, some wild predator could decide
that you look a lot like lunch! … You do NOT want to stand on
a granite countertop, that's for sure (although it won't crack easy,
it could!). About the possibility of cracking under other circumstances,
it could only happen if the installation is not done properly and
the contractor left some stress point unattended. Get a good fabricator
and go for granite! Think at the positives, not the negatives! Buy
insurance and go on with your life! And here's your insurance: Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| |
| Q
5770: We
recently bought an old house that needs much renovation. There was
a fire in the house about 20 years ago. The stone that the fireplace
is faced with is Palos Verdes Stone. The stone covers one entire wall.
I have tried everything to clean the stone but it seems there is a
sealer on the stone, so all the smoke, dirt and grime is sealed in.
Can you offer any suggestions on what to do? I really cannot and do
not want to tear it out.Any help would be very much appreciated.Thank
you, Libby, Nov
18, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Libby: Well, there's not much that YOU can do, that's for sure! That
a job for professionals! Get hold a bona fide stone restoration concern
in your area and have them assess the situation for you. (Marble &
Terrazzo Cleaning on the Yellow Pages.) Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q
5769: We
would like to make a fireplace surround of stone. The local(MS) stone
distributor has a beautiful one inch thick slab of multicolored sandstone:
yellow, pink, lavender/mauve, and brown veining in an off-white base.
This slab is relatively rough. Should it be honed or polished? Should
it be sealed? If so, what kind of sealer? Thank you, Lorenza, Nov
17, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Lorenza: It's neither honed, nor polished. Typically slabs of sandstone
like that are either right off the saw, or just ground flat; hence
the rough finish. Sealing it with a good-quality impregnator is highly
recommended. Need less to say, my MB-4 is one to choose! :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
Q
5767: I have greatly enjoyed your honest answers and advice on findstone.com.
I would like to purchase some of your products but I am not sure which
ones I need. I have granite counter tops in my kitchen, (at least
they told me it was granite). The color is called leopard skin, from
China. It is grey in color and I love it. Supposedly it has been sealed
but water darkens it pretty fast and I have gotten some stains on
it although I clean up most spills very fast. I assume that it was
poorly sealed, if at all. I would like to take out the stains before
I reseal. Do you sell a premade poltice? I did
get some lab grade acetone from a friend that works at a research
lab but I am afraid that it might be too strong. Secondly which of
your products can I buy to remove/clean the old sealer off? The third
question is how many running feet of countertop does a quart of your
seal treat? Last but not least do you sell a color enhancer/sealer
"all in one" that I can use on some marble and granite tiles
I am using in other projects? I look forward to getting the products.
michael, Nov 15, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: I never believed in pre-made poultices and, therefore,
I will never sell any! :-) No mineral solvent is “too strong”.
You can safely use the acetone given to you by your friend. About
the removal of the (allegedly) existing impregnator, I wouldn’t
concern myself too much, considering how fast (you report) liquid
get absorbed by your stone. Even with the most absorbent stones, 1
QT. Of MB-4 will be enough for a good 100/150 square feet. Yes, I
do make a color enhancer/impregnator as well: MB-6. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5766: We've
just installed our granite countertop. Our granite is called "Cognac".
It's a medium brown color stone. We're having some trouble with the
granite. There are spots on the granite, that is rough, not like rest
of the slab which is smooth. And there're also dent or like it's chipped
off on the stone. We are wondering if sounds right to you? or actually
it's a defect or the installer didn't do a good job on polishing the
granite. It really bother us when we feel the granite, there're rough
spots all over. And they stand out quite a bit because there are so
many and they don't really blend into the rest of the slab. I've seen
granite countertops elsewhere, but I don't see this problem. Please
advice. Dora, Nov 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dora: Cognac, huh! … Sounds good to me!! :-) Never heard
of it. (Besides the one that comes in a bottle!) I have no idea what
kind of stone it is and, therefore I can't venture any comment. About
the other nice and shiny "granites" you saw, they were not
this Cognac stuff, were they? The installers (or the fabricators)
never polish the surface of the slabs: they come polished already
by the factory. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
Q
5764: I
have 1'x1' tile granite floor in my kitchen. The kitchen is about
18x12 and the floor is about 12 years old. I bought the house 2 years
ago and the finish was already worn off in the high traffic area,
but still shiny around the edges of the floor. Is there a way to refinish
the granite, ie hone it, or polish/buff it, etc. to get it to look
new and consistant again? I'd prefer a dull finish when it's
all done. Everyone I ask doesn't do this or says it will be expensive
and I'm better off ripping the old floor out and putting in a new
floor. I'm on a tight budget and a tight deadline and I can't find
anyone who does this work in Hoboken, NJ. Karen, Nov 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Karen: I bet you don't find anybody: refinishing granite is not
for the faint at heart! I could do it for you (I'm not too far from
Hoboken), but I'm afraid that your tight budget won't enable you to
afford me! :-) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5763: After
much searching i just found my graniteon your stone images.it's 603c
granites from china.the granite has darken in areas[like water stains]
but this ones don't go away.i don't know what cause them.i'm frantic.how
can i removed them?i sealed the stone one time,but i don't think that
did the job.please help me. Gladys, Nov 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gladys: They sound like oil stain to me. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) . Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5761: For
honed absolute black granite, I should not seal it but rather leave
it in its natural state. To clean oils from food or hands, coffee
etc. should I just wipe it up and or use dish soap to wash the surface?
Please advise. Thanks, Amy, Nov
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Amy: If you ask me you should leave it where it is! J At any
rate, the best way to minimize the maintenance problems related ot
honed black granite, my recommendation is to apply a good-quality
stone color enhancer (like my MB-6). After that, you can follow my
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations that are
available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the side
bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts").
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5760: We are interested in purchasing Dakota Mahogany. Is it considered
one of the stronger and less porous stones? How would you rate it?
What should we look for when selecting the slabs. I could not find
you lemon test and oil test link. When do we do the test? Also what
type of sealers do you suggest be used. Nov
11, Reply |
| R1:
About the sealer, I'd like to encourage you to buy my own excellent
MB-4, but Dakota Mahogany seldom needs to be sealed. Other than that,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| |
| Q
5758: We
went to pick out a granite kitchen countertop after order "green
butterfly." We saw "verde pavao" which looked the same.
Someone said that "verde butterfly" has more light green,
and that verde pavao or verde peacock have more gold? But the slabs
were confusing. Now we don't know what to order. We like the large
chunks and want green (but not turqoise) with gold. What is the difference
between "verde butterfly" and "verde pavao" and
"verde peacock"? Thanks. Nov
11, Reply |
| R1:
Not much of a difference if you ask me. But then again, I'm 25% colorblind!
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5755:We are deciding on what material to use for our outdoor entertainment/grill/bar
area. We live in Arizona where you have the heat and monsoon season
and have received conflicting information. Some stores tell us that
granite is not a good choice because you would have to seal it several
times a year and before sealing it, you would have to receive the
previous sealer. Others tell us it is fine to use as long as you seal
it once a year and that we do not have to strip the sealer before
re-sealing. Can you please elaborate as to your thoughts on our choice
of granite.Thanks much! Pattie, Nov
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pattie: A sealer for stone (a.k.a. impregnator) is a below
surface sealer, NOT a topical sealer. Now, how could you possibly
strip something that's not on the surface??! Second, many commercial
granites don't need to be sealed, and you do NOT want to seal them!
About which one granite is the best choice, I seldom comment about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of
slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5754: We are about to put in granite counter tops. We have teenage
boys at home and I am a little worried about the staining issue. We
have narrowed it down to Imperial black, or emerald pearl. I would
appreciate your input. We are also playing with the idea of using
slab on you island (heavy use) and 12" tiles for the rest of
the counter tops. What are your thoughts on this Sheila, Nov
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sheila: If you can afford it, go slab all over. The two stone
you mentioned are usually terrific choices and will not stain. However,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
"doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5753: We
are about to order natural cherry cabinets and are narrowing down
our search for a black granite countertop. We had been leaning toward
Absolute Black and Black Impala, but yesterday we saw a sample for
Bahia Brown. Despite the "Brown" in the name, the Bahia
Brown sample we saw was jet black with a heavy overlay of large-ish
shimmering grey crystals (along the lines of Blue Pearl, but grey
and not as eye-poppingly reflective). Very nice. Two questions: (a)
was the sample misleading? - I found a picture of Bahia Brown on the
internet and it was clearly dark brown; and (b) regardless of color,
is this a hard granite that is stain-resistant? Thanks. - Pam &
Paul, Nov 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Pam & Paul: I don't know. I've heard of it, but it's a fairly
"new" stone. Besides, I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is
bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone
in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| Q
5752: I
am trying to find a very light/ white based granite for use in my
kitchen. The one that I have found is Bianco Romano. It this a 'true'
granite that will hold up to everyday wear and tear? Is it better
to have it honed or polished? I am trying to recreate the look of
mable, and am open to any other suggestions. Thank you. Andrea, Nov
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Andrea: Bianco Romano is not a true geological granite but it's usually
a very good stone for the purpose of a kitchen countertop. Polished
or hones is only a question of personal preferences. Hoiwever, I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| |
| Q
5750: I
am very interested in the poultice that you refer to for removing
oil stain from a granite benchtop. I have a brand new kashmir white
(which is really grey )granite benchtop which I left a container on
that leaked some olive oil leaving a darker mark and would love to
be able to remove it.Would greatly appreciate your suggestions.Mnay
thanks Sandra, Nov
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: Where are you from, the UK or the land Down Under? :-)
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
"Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5749: I am in the planning stage right now, and desperately seeking
solid advise. I am seriously considering buying granite countertops
for our new kitchen. Unfortunately, I don't have much knowledge on
the subject. Thankfully, I have come to your website and found tons
of great information.Before I go ahead and buy, could you please recommend
what type/ color of granite would be my best bet- I'd like either
blacks ( Galaxy or Absolute), or lighter colored granite ( Bianco
Cardinale, Incas Gold, Golden Oak).We have a busy household with 2
small kids and needless to say, our countertops will experience a
lot of spilling, fingertips, glass marks, etc. Kitchen is generally
a very high traffic area in our house. What would be the easiest to
maintain and resilient type of granite I should consider? Also, I
am located in Canada, Greater Toronto area- do you know/ could you
recommend a reputable manufacturer/ installer here? Nov
10, Reply |
| R1:
As
a principle I never recommend anyone. About the suitability of a stone
over another one, as a general rule of thumb (with exceptions, though)
dark colored granites are less problematic to maintain the light colored
ones. However, I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5748: I
would like to purchase sealer for a new limestone floor. Can you let
me know which product you recommend and how it is applied to a light
beige floor. Also, how do you clean the floor on a regular basis?
Do you just mop it with a cleaning solution? Can it be buffed. Michael,
Nov 10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mike: You came to right place! My maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installation are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's
Dos and Don'ts"). Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's
Products" link and order some MB-4 (impregnator/sealer) and MB-1
(stone floor cleaner). Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5747: I
have two questions about stones. First, is darker, less veined granite
really stronger? We recently had Utatuba installed (because we like
it) but I am still curiously about this claim made by the salesman.
Secondly, we are shopping for stones for a backsplash. What do we
need to know about travertine, tumble rock and slate from a maintenance
perspective? Thanks for the info, Kathy, Nov
10, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kathy: No, it is not stronger, but it is - in the vast majority
of the instance - much denser (which is a very good thing). Ubatuba
is indeed an excellent choice, for as long as you won't let anybody
seal it! (Not even with my own best-in the-entire-universe-and-beyond
sealer!) Travertine, tumbled marble (or any other tumbled stone, for
that matter) are good choices. Slate would be good, too for a backsplash,
but only the domestic one from New England. Back to your granite countertop,
the choice of the proper "granite" is only the first step.
But … what's a good stone if it gets into the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5746: Granite
is specified in our contract, but I would prefer something with a
" softer" look. Granite always seems flashy to me. In any
event, what would you recommend? I've been looking at a product by
Vermont Structural slate. I know it can scratch, but the sales people
there told me that you can rub out the scratches easily. They also
told me that it does not stain. What are your thoughts? Are there
any other stones you might recommend? Nash,
Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nash: Vermont Structural slate will not stain: TRUE. You can
rub out the scratches easy: FALSE. (Unless, of course, they stifle
me by showing me how!) Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5745: I
am choosing a color granite to go in a Galley kitchen. The cabinets
are maple finish is a honey mocha glazed. somewhat on the tan side
with antique glaze. I am undecided between the Giallos and the dard
browns like Imperial Cafe. Since the kitchen is small will the dark
granites overpower it. I also do not like the yellow's in the Giallos.
Can you help. What shade backsplash tile would go with each granite
and shade floor? Thanks, Jean,
Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Jean: No, I can't help: I'm 25% colorblind!! :-) About the mechanical
suitability of one "granite" over another one, I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5744: I've recently purchased a home with black galaxy granite countertops
in the kitchen. Is there a brochure which would explain how to properly
care for the countertops so that they continue to look good. Frances,
Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Francis: Absolutely! You came to right place! My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the side bar menu of this very page ("Maurizio's
Dos and Don'ts"). Or you can go directly into the "Maurizio's
Products" link and order some MB-5 and MB-13. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q
5743: Is
there a special type and grade of Granite that is used to cook or
grill food on, or will any type or grade of Granite work? I want to
heat the Granite up to 400 degrees Celsius, and am concerned that
the Granite may become unstable at those temperatures and explode,
causing injury. Is the melting point of Granite 840 degrees Celsius?
At what temperature does Granite become unstable and unsafe to use?
Thank you in advance.Best regards, Steve , Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: Most true geological granites and commercial granites
are heat resistant, which means that are not heat-proof. You do NOT
want to do that! The only stone suitable to such type of (ab)use would
be soapstone. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5742: I'm building a new home and trying to decide between Crema Marfil
Marble countertop vs Black Onyx Granite countertop. My vanities are
dark cherry and my floor and wall tiles are Imola Samarkand Series,
Bottaccino with Taskent decor tiles and trim. Cost is not an issue,
I'm more concerned with durability, staining, etc. HELP! Donna, Nov
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: Black Onyx Granite??! What on earth
is that?! Run my little lemon juice test on a scrap piece of it and
if it passes, go for it! Now, remember, it's never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone.! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| Q
5741: I
am just a recent homebuyer who has granite countertops in the kitchen.
I left a bottle of pine-sol on the counter and it leaked. Now I have
a stain. Is there any way to treat this or am I just out of luck?
Thanks so much. Kelly, Nov
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kelly: What you have should be classified as an inorganic stain. When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5738: I am laying marble in my front entry way. I repaired the concrete
mortor bed with a layer of Quikrete and it has a refurb layer under
that. I was told I need to crack that layer up and nail a piece of
plywood and relay the Quikrete on top of the wood. Is this true? It
is not a subfloor, so there is nothing to nail the wood into, it was
an existing concrete bed that had cracked over time. So I just repaired
and filled in the cracks. Will this make my marble crack as people
walk on it or should I go ahead and remove the layer and put the plywood
down? Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Plywood nailed to concrete?? … That's why
I'll never want to die: you learn something new every day!! :-) Just
put a water-proof membrane over the concrete slab and install away!
Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and,
as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not
likely to get good information about it from your dealer, or the person
who told you to nail plywood to the concrete slab!! :-) Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5737: Please help! I went to custom cut a shower sill, door saddle,
and two corner shower shelves out of marble. When picking up the finished
products, I found chips on the edges and a crack across the door saddle
that they poorly filled in. I was told this was "natural to the
stone" and that "Durango was limestone not marble"
(I.e. very soft). Am I crazy installing limestone on my shower sill,
shower shelves, and saddle? These areas will be wet and frequently
used! How will they wear and what do I need to do to maintain them?
I look forward to a speedy response since the tile guy is ready to
do the installation and is waiting on me! Thanks for your advice.
Rose, USA, Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Rose: Wrong again! Durango is neither a marble, nor a limestone: it's
a travertine (from Mexico), and, as such, is a good choice for a shower
stall. (Limestone is soft, travertine is not). A poorly filled crack
is NOT natural in the stone: like all travertine, Durango does NOT
have natural fissures. That's a poorly executed repair on a crack,
period. You don't have to accept that, and you can tell your dealer
to go deliver the story of the "natural thing" to some member
of their family! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5736: We installed Classic Limestone tiles in our kitchen. The installer
said he sealed the tiles with Porous Plus after the installation.
The tiles start to look slightly streaky, almost like the sealer is
washed off partly. In the cooking area we have dull round spots. We
use Mira clean # 1 to wash the floor. What can we use to bring the
floor back to its original condition? Should
we reseal the complete floor or only the dull spots? What sealer do
you recommend? Should we seal it more than once to completely seal
the porosity? Joe, Nov 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Joe: Mmmm … It looks to me like the Miracle Sealant Company is
not in the miracle business after all! :-) It's the usual old story:
the staining if calcite-based stones installed in a kitchen is NOT
the problem. The problem is etching (dull spots, a.k.a. "water
stains" or "water rings"). No impregnator/sealer under
the sun will ever do the first thing to prevent those! And that is
why you don't want limestone, marble or travertine, etc. in a kitchen,
unless they are either tumbled finished, or honed to the lowest possible
degree (totally flat, with no sheen whatever). To solve your problem
you will need to hire a proven professional stone refinisher who will
either re-hone your stone (if ti was delivered with a hone-finish)
or re-polish it.Oh, I almost forgot: you will also send a heartfelt
thank-you note to the knowledgeable "salesman" who sold
that material to you without warning you about the problems that you
would be having. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5735: HI! WE JUST PUT IN A PENNSYLVANIA BLUESTONE PAVER PATIO. UNFORTUNATELY,
AFTER ONLY 2 WEEKS, WE HAVE SOME STAINS FROM THE MAPLE AND ASH TREE
ON THE STONE. WE HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET RID OF THE STAINS. DO
YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? SHOULS WE HAVE SEALED IT? THANK YOU SO VERY
MUCH! PAM, Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pam: Yes, you should have sealed it, preferably with a good quality
stone color enhancer (like my MB-6). About the removal of the current
stains (organic in nature) either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5734: We've recently installed a blue pearl granite countertop in
our kitchen. The contractor messed up the countertop where two pieces
join together. In his attempt to smooth out the seams of the connection,
he had dulled the finish on the connection. He left a two-inch wide
dull spot that is very noticeable. Is there a way to restore the shine?
Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
And "Michelangelo" strikes again! Yes, of course there is
a way to restore the shine, but it takes a proven (and very expensive)
professional stone refinishing contractor. You should not accept that
countertop unless it's finished properly at your fabricator's expenses.
If you can't find anybody in your neck of the wood to do the job right,
demand for a replacement. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5732: We
are remodeling our kitchen and would like to use 'Canadian Gold' granite
for our counter tops. After reading through this site I'm a little
leery. We have a small kitchen with no natural light so would like
to keep the counters a lighter color. Are there precautions to take
with lighter colors of granite? Are they generally more porous? Do
they stain more? Guidry, Nov 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Guidry: Yours are all legitimate questions, but I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| |
Q
5730: I
have found that the floor has two large areas of water pooling. And
unattractive grey/white stuff seeping around the black grout. I discovered
the builder did not allow for drainage, did not slope the floor at
all, did not install a drain. I have a subfloor, which the builder
says is sealed with thinset, a layer of DUROC, sealed with thinset,
and then on top, the slate floor. The builder says the sealants are
sufficient to ensure no seepage to the lowest layer of the floor,
and said the fact that there is a roof means they were not required
to slopethe floor. They also chose to place a one inch trim board
along the floor to help hold the screens in place, so even if the
floor had been sloped, the water would not have been able to escape.
Builder also says cutting holes to install drains in the floor in
the areas where water is pooling is not recommended
because they won't guarantee the seal and anticipate in a few years
damage would occur to the various layers of the floorMy questions:
Isn't it normal practice to slope an exterior impermeable floor? What
are the best fixes? Remove all layers of the flooring and rebuild
with a slope? Attempt to install well sealed drains- and what would
be the best sealant to use? Any other fixes? Thanks Eileen Lynch,
Nov 09,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Eileen Lynch; Let me take a wild guess: did your GC tell you
that all he did is within "industry standards"??! …
You do have a problem, lady! But the REAL problem is not your floor
itself: it's your GC! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5729: I have a honed stone floor in my kitchen; I'm looking for a
cleaner and sealer. Also, I have some tiles that have pitted, could
you possible explain the reason for this? Thank you, Shelly, Nov 09,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Shelly: Tiles that have pitted? What kind of stone do you have?
Is it possible that's travertine? If that's the case, then you could
successfully fill the pits with unsanded grout and shave it flush
with a razor blade after a day of curing. Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| |
| Q
5727: I
recently purchased a house with a French Limestone floor throughout.
The stone seems to be "Beauvillon Rubanne". Sadly, it looks
like someone has used an inappropriate cleaning product, and some
areas have a whitish blotchy appearance. I have tried a mixture of
Linseed oil diluted with white spirit on a test zone with some success,
but before proceeding further I would like your advice! I have looked
for a stone specialist in my area (Geneva, Switzerland) with little
success. Thanks, Allen, Nov 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Allen: Keep going with your solution! Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| |
| Q
5725: This
morning I found that a hot pink post-it note had been left on my BETHEL
WHITE granite countertops. The stain is about 2 inches across and
2 inches long and HOT PINK. Can you recommend a possible fix??? Desperate
and freaking out. I had the granite installed when I was working -
now home with baby I do not have the $$ to replace the countertop.-
Joanna, Nov
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joanna: No need to replace the countertop! When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q
5723: I made a back deck out of Granite. I am sure this is granite
stone. The problem we are having with it is when the granite gets
wet it is really slippery. Is there anything that I can do to make
it not so slippery. Is there anyway to etch it or do you think that
I can spread a combination of sand and verathane all over the granite
so it isn't so slippery?Please help I am having a pool party in 2
weeks. Thank you in advanced. Debbie, Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Debbie: There are indeed products for the purpose that you have
in mind, but I've never been much into them. Search the web, girl,
search the web!! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5722: Is
there a difference in the quality of granite that comes from different
countries, ie.-Italy vs. Brazil vs. China? Do different colors come
from different countries? Is it appropriate to ask the stoneyard people
where the stone was quaried from and where it was polished, or does
it matter for the purpose of kitchen counter tops? thanks. your site
is so informative! Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
The Man upstairs did not invent geography. There are big differences
between different commercial granites, but none of them has any relation
whatever to the country in which the stone was quarried. In choosing
the "right" "granite" for your project you have
to follow criteria quite different from the country of origin. I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
Q
5721:we have a polished kota green slate kitchen countertop. We are
experiencing a lot of problems with our newly installed counter top.
I have contacted the supplier as well as the fabricator and no one
seems to know what they are talking about.
We spilled a Margarita on the counter top and quickly wiped it up
with water, the big spill mark is very apparant, water marks, white
spots, and minor scratches, dulling in the finish here and there.
The fabricator came back at one point and sealed it polished it or
waxed it and it lasted for a week or so, then the stains appeared
again. How will I go about treating or maintaining this counter top
so that it has a reasonable appearance. After reading the information
in this site I have come to understand that slate is not one of the
best options for a kitchen and the type of slate is really a huge
problem. I would like to get the stain or etching out and maintain
a shine or polished look. You appear to be very knowledgeable more
than the idiots I have been dealing with up until this time. The supplier
mentioned a baking soda and water poultice to remove the stains this
made the appearance of the stains worse. I await your reply, and thank
you in advance. Linda, Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: Well, thank you for you compliments, but you've mistaken
me for someone who's in the "miracle business"! I have no
solution to your problem, but don't concern yourself too much: pretty
soon several slate people will gladly take some time off their "selling
it" activity and chime in with an easy solution. It's gonna be
any day now … aaany day … Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5720: I purchased a home in Newton, MA, with green limestone kitchen
countertops. They look great now, and I understand that they were
sealed. What do I need to know before I move in? Thanks, Brian,
Nov 09,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Brian: First you check if the stone was actually sealed (sprinkle
a few drops of water on the stone surface and observe if it beads
and the stone underneath doesn't darken), and then get the right type
of intelligence. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5719: My granite counter tops are now in and I was told that they
had been sealed. Next to our stove I have various oils and vinegars
which have left a stain mark. What can be done. My name is Ann Marie
Horn, Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Ann Marie Horn: Have your fabricator come out, remove the stains for
you and finish the sealing job, which depending on the "granite"
and the impregnator/sealer may require several additional applications
- using an interval of at least 24 hours in between each application
- until you countertop is sealed! Just doing an application of impregnator
and then walk away can't be considered sealing by a long shot! Now,
remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and,
as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not
likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer
(when end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and dish
soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling
point at the speed of light!). Don't become another statistic! Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5718: I
am remodeling my kitchen and bath. I want to use slate through out.
All I read on Web says slate is virtually resistant to all problems
other stones may have....stain, heat etc. Do you think so? I would
like to use (non-sealed) what do you think? Less maintenance and upkeep
is my objective. Will honing (kitchen countertop) make more absorbent?
thanks for your help. JoAnn, Nov
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear JoAnn: What's in your pipe, girl? :-) In my professional opinion,
which is backed - among other things - by the numerous complaints
and gripes regularly appearing in this very site, just about all of
which with no practical solution (take a look at the post No. 5721
above) slate is probably the most problem-laden material in the whole
stone world. Use it for roofs (the right type, though), use it for
pool tables, use it for chalk boards, and you will be all right. You
can also use it for indoor walls outside a shower stall. But the list
ends there! Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| Q
5717: I
found Uba Tuba flamed granite tile and I really like it because the
veins are golden and the green is much softer than the polished Uba
Tuba. The more casual look it better for my home than polished granite.
I know that it is very porous and would need to be sealed. I also
know it is a rough surface and yet it seems even enough for kitchen
use. What’s your opinion? You seem quite knowledgeable and I’ve
enjoyed reading a number of your responses, but didn’t find one
specific to flamed granite – I’m wondering if it really
isn’t used on kitchen countertops, and for what reasons. Lynda,
Nov 09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lynda: And how exactly do you know that it's "very porous"?
:-) It is not! If you see it getting darker when you hit with water,
you're looking at surface staining, NOT deep staining. You do NOT
want to apply an impregnator/sealer. You rather want to consider a
a good-quality stone color enhancer like my MB-6. Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA. |
| Q
5716:Hello. I just had a patio installed in my back yard. I purchased
flagstone and the manufactured sand from a stone company and had a
stone mason do the work. My problem is that when he did the sand filler/concrete
between the stones, he didn’t get all of it off the stones. I
had a thick film over the entire patio. I tried scrubbing with a wire
brush, water, a hose and a push broom. I finally had to call him back
out. He used a pressure washer first. That didn’t help much so
he used muriatic acid. There is still a lot of concrete on the stones
and now I have a yellow film all over my beautiful stone. How can
I get the yellow film off and how can I get the remainder of the concrete
off?? Thanks! Vince, Nov
09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Vince: Who was that? "Michelangelo" or his brother?
I'm afraid that your stone is ruined for good. Sue the "artist"
who did that to you. Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
|
