Maurizio's
Announcement: I will continue to reply to questions posted here but
none of my literature / articles / guidelines are available for free
anymore. Everybody has been making money out of me (and FindStone?):
the distributors, the fabricators, the contractors, the consumers,
and the competition! Should you feel that my expertise is worth something
to you, all general information, as well as one-on-one specific consultation,
will be available on line. Click to see list of literature available.
For direct consultation, contact me at info@findstone.com
Ciao and Good Luck, Oct 25. Maurizio, Expert Panelist. Click Here
to read detailed
annoucement
|
| Q 5283: I have yellow
marble countertops in my kiichen (installed by the original owners).
When I moved in, I noticed deep visiable fissures in the entire counter
top and they are very rough. I also noticed previous areas where the
marble as been glued back together. The countertop has a 11"
overhang from the end cabinetry which is used as a bar area. The counter
is made of two pieces of marble 35" x 46" and 35" x
60". My problem is that the entire counter has cracked lengthwise
along visiable fissures and veins just before the cabinetry ends.
How could this happen? Was marble the right choice for a counter with
an overhang for sit at bar? Could it be from normal wear and tear
on bad marble? My apartment does not have central heat or A/C and
I do live on the harbour of Sydney. Could the weather have played
a role as well? Now what are my options? Thanks. Spencer, June
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Spencer: The weather has nothing to do with it, but
the latest political unrest in the Philippines … it just might!
:-) In a nutshell: poor choice of the stone and – very definitely
– poor installation.About your options: GET RID OF IT!Ciao and
good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5282:
I have brand new granite work tops in
my kitchen at a cost of £3,500. Unfortunately a hot pan was
placed on it and it has left a scorch mark. Is there any way i can
remove it? Samantha,
June 23, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Samantha: One of the many good qualities of the vast majority
of mercantile granites is the fact that you can put a hot pot onto
them without any problem! So, now the question is: "What the
heck of a 'granite' did they sell to you that gets scorched by a hot
pot?" I don't have the answer to that question, alas; and even
if I did it wouldn't do you any good! You may want to try consulting
with a bona fide stone restoration contractor, but your best course
of action is to have your fabricator solve the problem; after all
they made good money out of the deal and they should have known that
the particular stone they sold to you - whatever that is - doesn't
take the heat! The way I see it, the situation that you have is NOT
acceptable by any standard. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panleist
|
| R2:
rub it with kerosine
and dry |
| |
| Q 5280: I'm
renovating my master bathroom. I'm planning to use blue pearl granite
for the countertop...Having a difficult time finding the right material
and colors to use for the floor tile, wall tile, backsplash and shower
tile, and cabinetry. The bathroom will include a clawfoot tub which
is white with a charcoal finish on the outside. I want to stay in
the gray family of colors, but don't want the bathroom to be too dark.
Also I want the tile to have that natural stone look, without the
maintenance, and I don't want to use white tile. Does anyone have
any ideas, June
23, Reply
|
| R1:
If you don't want to consider using blue pearl all over the place,
there are porcelain tiles that look very much like polished marble.
Go check them out! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| |
| |
| Q 5277: We just put granite
countertop, (I don't know the name, we were told it's a new kind),
it is light brown. We have some problems. First of all, when plumber
installed the faucet, he used plumber's patty, and it stained the
granite. We called him, he removed the patty, reinstalled the faucet,
but the oily stain is still there. Granite has not been sealed yet.
Is there any way to remove the oily stain? We were advised to use
alcohol, but we are not sure. Second, what is the best sealer? Third,
how should we take care of the granite, after it will be sealed? Your
help will be highly appreciated. thanks, Ella, June
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ella: You could try to poultice the plumber's putty (again?!)
with Methylene Chloride, but chances are that it will not come out.
After that, answering to your question about the "bestest"
sealer, there's no such animal! Some are better for certain stones,
some are better for some others. For a better understanding of what
I mean, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations. Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5276: I am looking
for a step by step book or website ect, on how to cut and install
granite. I have 4 9 by 6 foot slabs of granite that I would like to
try to install as countertops in my kitchen. We are big do it yourself
people and know we could call a pro in but the price on the granite
was so good if we mess up a slab it’s O.K. I need to know everything
from the first cut to the polish. Can you help? Thank You Chris, June
23, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Chris: Oh, yeah, I can help you all right! For starters you will
need to buy AT THE VERY LEAST $10,000 worth of equipment and material.
Once you've got that, gimme a holler and I'll tell you - step by step
- what to do with it. As a first step, however - before you go out
and buy all that stuff - I'd like to encourage you to get real! :-)Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelis |
| Q 5275: I
used a thinset specifically for granite tile. and it seems the thinset
has changed the color of the granite and the color is blotchy after
30 hours of setting. Should I wait another 24 hours or is the discoloration
not normal and should get the countertop replaced. June
23, Reply
|
| R1:
If you’re lucky the discoloration will go away. Give it another
week or so. About the thinset being classified specifically for granite
makes me laugh my brains out! I mean, which one “granite”
are the manufacturers of the thinset talking about?! :-)Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5274: We just had Paradiso
Classico installed for our kitchen countertops. Immediately after
the installation, there were large darkened spots, above the locations
where the adhesive was applied. We were told this would dry out in
a few days. It did, but only slightly. Finally, after about three
weeks, they are gone from most of the surfaces. We were told not to
seal the granite until the marks were gone. However, we were only
told not to use the counters for 72 hours. So we've been using them
unsealed. As a consequence (I now realize from all the info here!)
there are new spots from oil, tomato sauce etc, that will not come
out. These are mostly fairly small, but a couple are unpleasantly
large. We don't know specifically which spots are from what things.
Which poultice of the different ones referenced here would be the
best one to try on unknown stains? As a follow on, when we do get
it cleaned up and ready to be sealed, it sounds as if it should have
4 or 5 coats of sealer, as it seems quite porous. Even water doesn't
bead up, but stains until it dries. We had Misty Mauve installed in
our bathrooms and it is much more satisfactory. Even before sealing,
liquids beaded up and didn't spot. Comparatively, the Paradiso which
was much more expensive, has been a real disappointment. Very much
appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks, Mary, June
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: Well, for starters, the fact that your Paradiso was more
expensive then your Misty Mauve has nothing to see with the mechanical
quality of the stone: it's strictly demand and supply at work! Now,
let's talk about your stains. When it comes to stain removal, either
you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that
no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or
you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how
to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means
that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5273: We just purchased
a house which has travertine tiles in the front and back entryway.
I didn't know much about the material and the builder told me it was
a type of "unpolished marble" (the house was build on spec
and is not yet completed, allowing us to make some choices about finish
and materials). Anyway I gather from reading thru your website that
it is normal for travertine to have holes and for them to be filled
with grout, but I'm wondering how big the holes normally are? The
holes in these tiles appear to be up to an inch in diameter and the
grout in them is not flush with the stone surface, so that some of
the holes have quite sharp edges. Also, the same tiles were used around
a gas fireplace and in some places the edges of the tiles are visible,
and the holes are so numerous that I wonder if these tiles will crack
easily. Anyway, we have already decided the holey tile edges around
the fireplace look terrible and will have the fireplace redone with
a different material, but we are trying to decide what to do about
the travertine entryways. In addition to the size and number of the
holes, the fact that the grout filling is not flush with the surface
makes my husband think that the grout will discolor and be very difficult
to clean. Thanks, Angela, June 23, Reply |
| R1:
ear Angela: Wow, some holes! Without seeing it I can say anything
specific, of course, but if I have to venture a guess I'd say that
you're dealing with a low-grade Durango Travertine from Mexico. Anyway,
I personally would not accept that floors the way you describe them.
Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5271: I have had a
very large floor installed and the name of it is Verde Esmeralda.
After reading you website, I am now a much more informed buyer (too
late). I can not find this "granite" listed on your site.
Is this a true granite. I am trying to find if it needs to be sealed
(I was told not by my installer) and what I could use to maintain
the high shine. Thanks for your help. Carmen, June
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carmen: Verde Esmeralda is not a true geological
granite, but it's quite a good stone nonetheless. Whether or not it
needs to be sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer is
something that you will have to find out yourself by running my little
lemon juice test (see sidebar menu). For the rest, I already answered
your other posting. Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panleist
|
| Q 5270: I have a customer
that we have done about $15,000 in custom work to their kitchen. installed
a marble floor in that kitchen. About 6 months later were back to
remodel their bathroom and i noticed in the kitchen near the up and
down stairs that the marble has a inward dimple in the marble.So i
looked closer and its everywhere.The kitchens the length of the house
and about 14 ft. wide,these dimples appear to be running with the
seems of the underlayment and horizontally as well.Also they only
used 1/4 inch durock on top of the 3/4 inch subfloor,total 1 inch.I've
done plenty of ceramic tile in my life and i know 11/4 is bare minimum
11/2 is suggested.It appears the marble is cracking from bottom up.What
is your thinking to this problem, trying to avoid liability to this.They
spent $5,000.00 on this floor and seems to be a garbage install.I
confronted the installer "did you reinforce the seems with mesh
tape", i got no response. Also "why did you only use 1/4"
insted of 1/2" underlayment"again,no response Thanks Scott,
June 23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Scott: And what is it exactly that you'd
expect me to say? It's clearly an installation failure, and, clearly
again, something was not done right. Of course, the only remedy is
to rip out the whole floor and start anew (and right, this time!),
and that is something you will have to deal with. The tile setter
didn't answer your questions … How could I possibly answer them
for you? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5268: I
have just had a very large dining room (14 x 24) and hall (over 40
feet long) done in Esmeralda Verdi granite. It looks beautiful except
for one thing. I see a haze on the tile when I look at it. My installer
says that it is the stone that I am seeing. When the floor is wet
it is beautiful. Once it dries, it gets that haze or cloudy look to
it. Does it need to be buffed or does it need a special cleaner. I
bought a cleaner for granite countertops and used it on a small corner
but it did not change the haze. Is this a normal feature of this floor?
Is it because it is a very dark floor that I am seeing this? I would
appreciate any help or opinions Thank you Carmen, June
23, Reply |
|
R1: Carmen,
can you get a virgin tile. A leftover that was not manipulated.
If there is no haze get back to me and I will tell you what to do.
If they are the same you possibly need a polishing. Ciao "Stone
|
| R2:
Dear Carmen: No mysterious haze or anything. It's the nature of that
particular "beast". Some spot of the stone do not take a
polish as high as others. However, there are some easy to apply and
to maintain topical coatings that would produce a visual improvement
for you. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5264: I
have a sandstone fireplace that has smoke buildup on it. I would like
to clean it but don't know what to use to clean it. Pls advise your
comments, Thanks. June 23, Reply |
| R1:
You need four ingredients: Household bleach (diluted
1:1 with warm water); Rubber gloves; a laundry-type brush; elbow grease!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5263: Do
I have to seal a Jupprano Columbo granite floor tile. We installed
it but I don't have any idea if I have to buy a sealer for this type
of granite or not. Please advise and recommend a sealer product. Thanks.
June 23, Reply |
| R1:
Yes, typically Juparanas stones need to be sealed
pretty bad! About the "best sealer" to buy, you can get
my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
|
| Q 5259: Can you tell
me if it is possible to remove wax marking off of unfinished flagstone?
It looks like a oil stain. HELP, Mark, June
23, Reply |
| R1:
There is a possible recipe, but I need the exact
details of what is on the stone. Ciao Stone |
| R2:
Dear Mark: Try
to poultice it with a chemical that removes oily stains. When it comes
to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional
kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert
PAnelist |
Q 5258: I
just moved into a home with marble surrounding the fireplace (the
mantle is wood). Unfortunately, the color does not mix well with my
belongings. I would like to cover up the marble but don't know how
to start. Some people said I should paint it (but I need to be sure
it doesn't get hot). Others suggested tiling over it (I like this
idea because I want to cover it with small tiles). Is one of these
methods a good idea or is there another method would be better? What
should I consider by following your recommendation (i.e., if I tile
it, what kind of tile or grout, etc. should I choose)?
thanks! Cheryl, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Cheryl, don't paint it. It won't last. Tiling over it is good.
Make sure you scratch up your marble first, and then you will be able
to glue directly over the marble. Stone |
| Q 5257:
I had a kitchen counter installed that
the dealer called Juperano El Dorado. Might this be the same as Juperano
Gold? Do you know about Juperano El Dorado, if it is different? Thanks
for your help. Claudia, June 20, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Claudia. It sounds the same to me. But it's not fair to
say. it is known that the industry changes the actual name to mix
up the competition. If you can forward a picture of your stone I will
tell you which it is. The name is the same though, Dorado does mean
gold. Stone Hi Claudia. It sounds the same to me. But it's not fair
to say. it is known that the industry changes the actual name to mix
up the competition. If you can forward a picture of your stone I will
tell you which it is. The name is the same though, Dorado does mean
gold. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Claudia: Not a clue!
There are so many "Juaparanas" (whatever that means) on
the market (and counting!) that I totally lost track of them! I'm
not losing any sleep over it, though! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5255: We
have a new house with many of the walls built out of Bluestone, and
we seem to get water seaping through it in a variety of places. Is
there any type of sealant product you can apply (I would guess to
the outside) to stop this from happening? Is it something that goes
away? Or is there some other problem besides the stone and we are
not seeing the correct issue. Thanks for any help you can give, Dougin,
June 20, Reply
|
| R1:
One, check the joints and makesure there are no voids. You
can seal the stone with a water repellent, but the water could come
from another area and trail to the are getting wet making it seem
like its coming from the stone. Thats a hard problem to solve and
you will have to seal and check joints and silicone some areas until
you find the spot. Stone |
| |
| Q 5253: We just moved
into a house that has a granite floor in the bathroom and granite
countertop in the kitchen. Around the base of the toilet bowl, there
is a rust colored stain on the granite. What can be used to clean
and remove the stain? In the kitchen, there is a section of granite
that has lost its shine. Can the shine be restored? thanks Chris,
June 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Chris, try Iron Out on the rust stain but as afar as the shine,
you will need a professional. Stone |
| R2:
Dear June: About the rust stain around the toilet, you must remove
the toilet, replace the stained tiles (if you can get some replacement)
and have a better sealer applied (where the toilet bowl connects with
the pipe to the sewer). About the countertop, you're going to have
to hire a bona fide stone refinisher. Maurizio, |
| Q 5252: I
have a marble tile vanity in my bathroom. Without reading the label
closely, I sprayed it with a tile cleaner which has removed the shine
off of the marble and made it a lot less smooth. Is there anything
I can do to get the sheen back.- Carolyn, June
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Yes, call a stone restorer pay the 250 dollars
or so and never use a product without reading the label. Bad Bad girl.
Not to have read the label you must be Italian like me. Remember this,
any marble any any polished marble, to maintain it, think of it as
baby skin. Ivory, dove , etc., is all you can use, or of course specific
stone cleaners. Ciao Stone |
| R2:
Dear Carolyn: Yes, you have to hire the services of a qualified stone
restoration contractor. Now, you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing
is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from
a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks
on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could
you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive
article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor,
which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent
choice. It does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your
stone, you don't want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You'll
be glad you did! What's more, I will even show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5250: I
am renovating our home and would like to cover the entire ground floor
with saturnia light premium limestone. Do you have any reservations
about this choice? I have two children - 9 and 12. I would love to
hear what you recommend with respect to sealing it and washing it.
What is a reasonable price and are there vastly different qualities
out there? Thank you so much, Anne. June
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ann: I will not comment about the price. Saturnia stone )a fancy
name to say cross-cut travertine) is quite dense and I would recommend
sealing the kitchen and dinette area only with a good-quality stone
impregnator (make sure that every residue is removed off the stone
surface!). After that, with proper care, Sa turnia is quite an enjoyable
stone. Go for it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5249: We
just had a 3,000 pound granite boulder delivered to our home that
was placed in our yard as part of our landscape design .... When we
spray water on the boulder, it turns dark black in color. When the
boulder is dry, it is lighter in color.
We are wondering if we can apply the "color enhancer" product
that is sold on your website to this boulder to bring out the dark,
wet look (that is apparent when the granite boulder is sprayed with
water). We live in the state of Minnesota where the winters get quite
cold - can the "color enhancer" product be used in an outdoor
application? If so, does rain quickly wash away the solution or does
the application of the enhancer remain on the stone for quite some
time? If you think that this enhancer can be used for an outdoor application,
how often must the "color enhancer" be reapplied?
If you know of a different product that
would help us achieve this darker color on the granite boulder (living
in a cold climate) we would appreciate your feedback ....Thanks for
your assistance, Jim, June 20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jim: Yes, it should work. The rain will eventually wash it away,
somehow, but it should last a few months (depending on how much rain
you’re gonna have!). You will know when it’s time to apply
some more. Usually the following applications will last longer. Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5248: We
recently had granite countertops installed (7 days ago) and now I
noticed we have an 8"x3" dark stain on top near our sink.
We have Giallo Veneziano and it is beautiful. Our kitchen is not completed,
so we aren't using it, but what could have caused that stain? They
said they sealed it. The workers bring sodas and their lunches daily.
Could food or perhaps a chemical they were using caused that? Thanks
for your help. Sincerely, Jenny, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jenny: Your guess is just as good as mine! If the stain is darker
it is definitely a true stain. If they sealed your stone, either they
didn't seal it enough, or they didn't use the right sealer. Call them
back and demand them to solve the problem. They made good money out
of you, didn't they? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5247: I
have a lot of agglomerate marble floor that got damaged. From light
scratches to deep gouges. Is it possible to repair? Thanks John, June
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John: It probably will. Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor who will assess your situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5246: I'm getting ready
to build a house and was really interested in the Uba Tuba granite
for kitchen countertops. I am looking for fairly low maintenance.
Where is is so dark, is it really hard to keep clean on a daily basis
(re: fingerprints, dust, etc....). Any suggestions? Linda, June
20, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Linda: What is this thing with dark stone showing fingermarks
and stuff? Of course they do! But so what? I mean, do you want your
countertop clean, or make-believe, just because you don't see soil
so much? :-) As far as the choice of Ubatuba is concerned, it's quite
good, but I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may
be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I
did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a
Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have
me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be
glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all of your
money back! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5244: I
bought unfilled 10 cm x 10 cm travertine tiles for our little kitchen.
What kind of "coctail" filler would you recommend for filling
them, and how sould it be done? I have a bag of travertine dust that
I collected after cutting border pieces, can I use this? June
20, Reply
|
| R1:
No, you can't use the travertine dust to fill the holes (unless you
mix it with epoxy glue, which is a procedure I do NOT recommend for
DIYers). Just use unsanded grout mixed with latex additive. Fill the
holes leaving the filler in excess, and then, the following day, you
"shave" the whole thing using a professional-grade razor
blade scraper. Finish to clean any film residue with "0"
steel wool. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5243: We
want to install Travertine in all areas except bedrooms. Our installer
said that Travertine is not used much up here because it is too porous
and cannot take the amount of dust walked into it. He said it would
require a lot of work and sealing it about every 2 years. Our children
are gone but we have 3 medium dogs that live with us and a lot of
dirt does get in at times. Is Travertine high-maintenance..? Is what
he is saying true. Mimi, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mimi: Where exactly is "up here"? Travertine is not
very porous. In fact, is among the densest tones available and does
not need to be sealed. Not now, not ever. Considering your situation
(3 dogs and lots of dirt), I would encourage you to consider hone-finished
travertine. That would be, with the proper and easy maintenance -
a quite enjoyable stone. You can get my maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere
else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your
money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5242: I have
travertine floors that are sealed. I
have light scratches from the dogs. I am not sure if it is the stone
or the sealer that is scratched. What can I do to remove the scratches?
Thank you, June 20, Reply |
| R1:
If you have a wax or top coating, you may be able to simply reseal
it. If its the actual stone, you will need a professional to recut
and polish. And yes doggy nails will scratch the actual stones surface.
Stone |
| R2:
Travertine doesn't need
to be sealed. If it was sealed anyway, no sealer should have been
left on top of the stone and, consequently, the scratches should be
in the stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Dear Pat: Another complaint
about slate? It’s impossible … it must be a mirage or
somethin’! … Don’t give up your hopes, though: I’m
sure that some slate person will be able to take a few minutes break
off their frantic selling-it activity and help you out. It never happened
before, but, hey, you never know … there’s always a first
time for everything!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5240:
I have a specific question which I hope you could answer, as I am
having trouble getting a reliable contractor to do this work (the
granite installation contractor wont even return my calls!) I recently
moved into a house which had new granite countertops. When we moved
in, we installed a new dishwasher, but the dishwasher is supposed
to be attached to the countertop bottom with two screws. The dishwasher
installer could not penetrate the granite with Tapcon fastners, and
was not equipped to drill into the granite to fix the unit to the
bottom of the counter.
Questions:
1. How do I drill the screw holes into the bottom of the granite?
Do I use an impact driver? A diamond bit?
2. Do I need some type of insert to sink into the granite to apply
the screws to?
3. I am afraid of using an impact driver as I thought I might crack
the granite countertops. The counters are about 1-1/8" thick
and the screws would be driven in about 3/4" in from the bottom
edge. Thanks for your advice! Pete D, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Why must you drill it in? But anyway without the proper tools forget
it. I suggest you glue a piece of wood to the underside and screw
in the wood, Forget drilling the granite, too hard to do without fracturing.
Ciao Stone |
| Q 5239:
I am in a situation I have a home that is 3 weeks old and last week
I found a crack in my granite. The crack is in the front of my cooktop
and it is all the way through the stone. I have a feeling that it
may have cracked when they cut the hole but I don't know, the installer
believes it is not his fault and that he will patch it. I am afraid
that down the road this repair will not hold up because of where it
is and the severity of the crack. what do you think should I let them
patch it or should I push for full replacement of the piece (it is
between two other pieces)? RDS, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
You have to decide, that crack happens often and it's normal that
is is weaker, where the hole has been cut. Personally I wouldn't accept
the counter, but I charge a fortune to install and would replace it
without fail. Another note, if he can patch it up without it showing,
and the installation is solid, no it won't get worst. So again you
must decide depending on situation. Stone |
| R2:
Dear RDS: If that weak
spot was "rodded", then chances are that if the repair is
done properly it will hold. If they didn't "rod" the granite
at the shop before executing the cut-out, then it will not hold. And
just out of curiosity, if it's not their fault, whose fault is it?
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5238: The
marble in my leaving room which was installed a year ago, has started
to cheap away where the vain runs, do have any idea what could cause
this? Thanks, Sammy, June 20, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Sammy. Some veins are composed of very weak minerals. Not much
you can except for filling with epoxy once and while. Stone
|
| Q 5237: I
didn't like the look of granite so the "experts" at the
stone store convinced me that Halila, (which they called a Jerusalem
stone) would be beautiful and durable in my kitchen. I worried about
it w/small children. They assured me it would not be an issue. We
just finished building a new house, and have lived here one month.
After reading your articles I see that my problem of the "water
marks" is from acid stains. I have been diligent in my care for
the stone, and still have marks everywhere already. We spent a fortune
on this stone and had special edges fabricated. I don't have the financial
option to tear out my kitchen and start over. Please give any options.
If I use the muratic acid (as suggested in one of your answers) to
dull the finish, will the counter become more porous and stain? Should
I then seal after using the acid? Could I just rub lemon juice over
the counter to get the same affect? HELP! Thanks in advance., Sandra,
June 20, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Sandra, that is so unfair. Yes, it is a problematic
stone. You can either take a course on how to maintain it yourself
or have an expert come in yearly to bring it back. Refer to my answer
to Q 5169 Stone |
| R2:
Dear Sandra: I feel truly sorry for you. Try to wash it several times
with a product called "Lyme-away" (spelling?), available
at any supermarket. Its acidity is not as strong as Muriatic acid
and it's easier to handle. That should do it. About the sealing, yes,
I guess you will have to re-apply a good-quality stone impregnator/
sealer, since the acid will damage the current sealer. After that
you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5236: We just had 500
sq feet of travertine Turkish limestone laid over a plywood subfloor-
we have a crawl space- so therefore no cement slab- Only the kitchen,
front entrance, laundry room and breakfast room areas- all connected
-- have OSB over the plywood- the floor installer FORGOT to put the
"rock board, or cement board" over all including the 2 bathroom
floors. It was sealed before and after grout, but we were told today
the floor will have problems- we want a professional opinion- He used
Versaset to cement 16" sq honed tiles down. When he sealed it
he SPRAYED The impregnator on, never wiping residue off even 2-4 hours
later when it still had wet appearance.
The work was completed 4 weeks ago- today is 5/30/03 and he gave us
a year warranty.
Do we need to expect and rotting (due to moisture) , also tiles are
not level- grout is already hipping out- HELP! Nora, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Hard to tell Nora without being there. The tiles not being leveled,
a dime of difference is usually the norm. The sealer, well the result
should be, very little absorption if you drop water and there should
be no visible film on the surface. If you have something else, it'
s a problem. As for the problems, well I have a tenant that when he
showers, he never pulls the shower curtain, cement slab or not, what
ever I put down is a problem. The problem can be very specific to
your usage. I have seen many jobs installed improperly and last for
years. I think you will have to judge more upon how you had agreed
to have it done. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Nora: I hope you have a good lawyer. He's the only one who can
help you out, if your "Michelangelo" does not amicably agree
to: 1) Rip out the whole floor. 2) Sublet the new installation work
to someone else who - unlike him - knows what is doing. And, BTW,
do NOT allow anybody to apply an impregnator on your Turkish travertine.
Neither before the installation, nor after, nor ever. You can get
my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio,
Expert Advice |
| Q 5235: I recently put
in granite counter tops- silver galaxy. Ihad to use my old faucet
until my new ine came in. The plumber used the metal plate under the
facet and when he removed it, the plumbers putty he out in the bottom
of the plate left a stain. what can i do to get this stain off. I
would greatly appreciate your help. I am so disappointed when i look
at the area now. Thanks Risa, June 20,
Reply |
| R1:
Remove all the putty and follow the poultice directives. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Risa: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5234: We
recently moved in a new home in September 2003 and the Master Bathroom
floor and shower are travertine. I love the look but am very unhappy
with whatever they use to "seal" it. I know they put 3 applications
of sealer on before we moved in and it didn't look even. And, it didn't
last, it came off. All I used to clean the floor was either plain
water mopping or sometimes a little dishsoap in the water. So, they
applied another sealer while we were out of town this month and I'm
still not happy with it's appearance. Can you recommend a proper product?
I'm not sure what they are using but I don't think it's the best choice.
Tracy, June 20, Reply |
| R1:
I would need specific product names to help you.
Stone |
| R2:
Dear Tracy: OK, let's
start from the beginning. Travertine is a quite dense stone and doesn't
need any sealer. Only if it has a hone-finish, and, even then, just
maybe. Second, a sealer for stone is not supposed to be onto the stone,
but inside it. In fact, a very important phase of the application
procedure of a stone sealer (a.k.a. impregnator) is to make sure that
every last residue of it is removed from the stone surface. Now, in
your case, the applied three coats of sealer (not one single iota
of which had any chance to go inside the stone), apparently they never
removed the excess, consequently your travertine looks like …
you know what, and, to top it all, now they applied another sealer!
WOW!… I'm amazed and speechless at the same time!! So much so
that I really don't know what to tell you other than having those
"geniuses" come back and rectify your situation, not before
they've learned at least the basics about stone maintenance and preservation.
You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 5233: I work in a home
that has a shower stall completely made of Texas Limestone (ceiling
included). It was built 6 years ago, but the stone was never sealed.
We have noticed that the bottom half of the shower is now a much darker
color than the top half, prob. due to water absorption. We are considering
sealing the stone and I am wondering how long the area should be left
to dry out & what type of sealer would be the best to use for
this project? Also, what is the best thing to use to clean Texas Limesone
in a shower?? Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Zoe, June
20, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Zoe, You must first make sure that the stone has not discolored
rather than wet from moisture. I will deal this problem as if it was
wet as you claimed. Place a fan in the shower and allowe the stone
to dry, this could take quite some time. Clean with a good non acidic
stone cleaner, and seal with a pourous stone sealer. Look for them
at your local stone supplier or I can provide you with exact products
needed. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Zoe: The darkness
of the lower part of your limestone shower stall walls it is certainly
due to water absorption, but the big $64 question is: where is the
water being absorbed from? From the top of the stone? Maybe. From
behind it? More likely. Check thoroughly all your grout and caulk
lines to see if any of the stuff is missing (hopefully those tiles
were not set butt-joint!...) If you reach the determination that water
is, in fact, being absorbed from behind the tiles, then you have a
problem that's larger than what meets the eye. Hoping that you're
still in time, stop using that shower right away and let it be, with
the door open, for as long as it will take to dry completely (it may
take up to a few months!). After that, you will proceed to have the
grout and/or caulk properly applied, so that you can start using your
shower again. About sealing it and properly maintaining it, you can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5232: I am having my
bathroom done in honed and filled marble - color is called Durango.
The floor, and walls tub surround and counter top will be done. I
would presume that I have to seal this. Is that correct?
I purchased a product for a penetrating sealer. I applied the product
to a small sample of the marble I will be using and I see streaking.
Maybe I am applying it incorrectly. Now I am afraid to use the product.
does not have a customer support dept which I did not realize, or
else I would have not ordered from them. Now I seem to have a problem
and do not know what to do. Can you recommend another product that
will be effective and not give me streak marks? Since the
bathroom is a place I will be using makeup and hairspray, I do not
want the marble to stain if possible. Any help would be appreciated.
Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Barbara, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barabara: Your Durango stone is a travertine, and, as such, quite
dense. I wouldn't bother sealing it with any impregnator. All you
have to do is implement a good maintenance routine. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5231: I am carving
sandstone blocks 16" x 16" x 6" on a CNC router. Roughing
with a blade and finishing with a carbide conical ball mill works
great, however I have not been able to locate an intermediate tool
that doesn't wear out quickly. Because of the contours of the carving
there are a lot of plunge cuts which wear out the end of the tool.
I have tried diamond finger bits, electroplated marble tools, and
diamond bowl tools. Allen, June 17,
Reply |
| R1:
I deal directly with a manufacture who is excellent at this sort of
problem. Forward me all the details of the diamonds you have tried,
the stone you have been working on with the name of the tool and speed
with the amount you have been paying, I can then see if he can or
has something to fit your need. If he does I can perhaps get him to
contact you. Stone |
| Q 5230: I
have an Alabaster Eagle statue and one of the feet has broken off
during my recent move. How would you suggest I repair this? Thank
you so much for your time and attention to this, April,
June 17, Reply |
| R1:
Its not hard but you need a little skill. The best and most solid
way is to drill a hole at both ends of the broken piece. The holes
must match perfectly when you put the piece back. Slip in a non oxidizing
type metal rod with matching colored epoxy. Allowing the excess to
seep out of the crack. Sand down the excess and polish and voila,
done right it will not show or look like another vein. Sounds hard?
Its not but you need a little experience. You can ultimately simply
glue the piece with epoxy only, it will be easier but not as sturdy.
Stone |
| R2:
Dear April: If you don’t want to go through
a stone restoration contractor, you could try with some “Crazy
glue”. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
Q 5228: A few months
ago I redid my whole kitchen. I have alarge amount of counterspace
and rather than purchase granite countertops I resorted to putting
plywood across the countertops, then placing Durock on top of that
and on the wall behind them and covering everything in granite tiles.
It works beautifully and it saved me about $15K. The vertical edges
had tile sections glued in place with Liquid Nails and I used a medium
belt on a beltsander to bullnose all the corners. The whole ensemble
looks suberb.
I had a nasty surprise though when I dropped in the sink. I sealed
the edges of the sink with plumbers putty (it is a top mount sink)
and I noticed that for about an inch all the way around the sink the
granite become much darker than the rest of the counter top. It is
not an enormous disaster but I thought that as time passed the discoloration
would go away. It is not! That one inch ring around the sink is still
darker than the rest of the countertops.
I have already applied sealer to all the countertops (I did this about
three days after I sealed the sink with plumbers putty). That was
5 months ago. Is there anything I can do to get rid of this dark ring
around the sink? Would a poultice help? (remember, the granite has
already been sealed). Dan, June 17,
Reply |
| R1:
Hey Dan, sounds like you did a great job. Yes, plumbers putty does
affect and discolor the stone. You have to remove all the of Plumber's
Putty to begin with and then poultice the spot. I am supposing that
where the plumbers putty was applied (edges of sink) it has not been
sealed, sink the sink is sitting there. The poultice will go in the
same way the putty did. It can also go in through the sealer possibly!
Try a test. I also was quite successful using a torch, the discoloration
is an oil and the oil can be heated and evaporated. Just be careful
to crack the granite or burn the house down. You have to heat it with
a large flame not an intensive one. Stone |
| R2:
The only way I know of
is to take the tile out. You should never use plumbers putty. use
a silicone to set the sink. Take out the tile and replace it. Mark |
| R3:
Dear Dan: Nope, that
plumber’s putty stain is there for the duration.Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5227: What
are the best products to use on stone countertops in the kitchen for
purpose of disinfecting? Can bleach be used? Thank you. Eric, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eric: You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do
carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find
anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you
a way to get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5226: Hi, I just this
granita that my wife liked because of the colors. It is called Giallo
Valenciano, and I have two questions: 1- Is it a good choice for a
kitchen couter top? 2- I have heard alot about not real granite, is
this one of them, and what exactly means not real granite? Thanks
for the good job in keeping everyone informed. Hector, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Hector: If you take a look at Dr. Daniel's table of granites
you will find out what stone your Giallo Veneziano is. It is, however,
a pretty decent choice for a kitchen countertop. "Not real granite"
means that it's a stone that is illegally (at least here in the US)
traded as granite but it belongs to a different geological classification.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5224: I
am considering putting honed absolute black counters with a color
enhancer in my kitchen. I see numerous postings discussing the issues
with honed absolute black and in many the proposed solution is to
color enhance them. If I plan to color enhance them anyway, are they
then a practical choice or is staining still a big problem? Do you
have any other stone recommendations if I want a matte black countertop?
Thank you for any advice you have. Jennifer, June
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: Not really; but you're on the right track. A good quality
stone color enhancer will help you a lot by minimizing the visual
effects of surface soiling, which is the big minus with hone-finished
black granite countertop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5223: We
just put in countertops of Dakota Mahogany also granite floors a lighter
Mahogany ( I'm not sure of the name ) with borders of Dakota and Black.
It looks fabulous. We have light maple cabinets and all stainless
steel appliances and we are wondering what to do for a backsplash,
any suggestions? Judieg, June 17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judieg: I assume that you already discarded the idea of having
the same granite as a backsplash. There are quite a few options, including
tumbled marble. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5222: At our home in
Massachusetts, a mason installed a granite top to a brick wall that
contains an outside grill, the granite top serving as a counter. The
granite is the ordinary New England type -- what is used for highway
curbing or cobblestones.
Rain darkens the granite considerably to a color much more compatible
with the brick. I am wondering if I should use a color enhancer to
get this color regardless of the weather. However, I would not want
to end up with a shiny, polished look to the granite as that would
be too formal for the outdoors. Would a color enhancer give me the
look I am seeking -- a darker color but without a glossy surface look?
Thank you in advance for any advice/suggestions you can provide. Judy,
June 17,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Judy: A stone color enhacer is a penetrating-type product. What
this means is that it will go inside the stone without effecting in
any way it's surface finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| |
|
| Q 5217:
We just had porcelain floor tile installed.
Our dog wet on it, and after it was cleaned up the tile is dull where
the urine contacted it. What can we do to fix it? Vern,
June 17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vern: I have no idea. I deal with stone, not porcelain; though
I must admit that your report is mighty unusual. I’d suggest
you to go back to the people who sold the stuff to you. Maurizio,
Expert Panleist |
| Q 5215: I am installing
toffee (mid-range color) colored maple cabinets from Kraftmaid. My
floors are saltillo tile. What granite slab choices would complement
the cabinets and floor? June 17, Reply
|
| R1:
Sorry, but I make a lousy interior decorator! (I'm even 25%
colorblind!) I consider myself a mechanic and I stick to that. I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5214: Hello,
I am looking for some advice on some glue. I have read the comments
in the forum but have not noticed this particular application. The
question I have is twofold. First, I am trying to find out what is
the best "glue" to use on a Marble Mantel (fireplace surround)
There are several pieces that need to be glued together to make it
one piece. The glue needs to be able to withstand the heat, most importantly.
I have been referred to Gesso Mix before (not acrylic) and am not
sure if this is the best way. There is also a need to glue the mantel
to the wall, can I use the same glue?.
Additionally, if I am installing the Mantel in someones home and the
glue I use is "toxic" and the smell permeates everything
within a 100' radius, this may be a problem. Also, some glues like
to "breath" for a long time, that is, give off vapors and
so after the mantel has been installed, the homeowner smells it for
weeks afterward. But at the same time, if the best glue is like this,
at one time or a nother, I will be able to use such a glue. At any
rate, that was the first situation. The second is this: I am also
looking for a glue that can be used outdoors for such things as a
Rotunda or Statue. Would this be a different glue or would I be able
to use a different one? (of course, if its outdoors, the "breathing
glue" is not such an issue. These may be Marble or Granite or
other stones. What do you think? Any advice, or experience is welcome.
Thanks Lance, June
17, Reply
|
| R1:
I can suggest you to use 2 different kind of glue for your different
applications: around a fireplace you want to use a glue that can sustain
high temperature. Polyester glue are tested and guaranteed for a temperature
range of 0°C to 100° C (32F-212F). as far as smell after they
cure , it is relatevily inexistent. they dry up quickly and are relatively
strong. as far as outside job, polyester is not a choice (remember
the 32°F limit?). so you are stuck in using an epoxy glue. the
range goes from -32°C to +60°C. those are strong and depending
on the kind chosen can be applied also on moist material. i'll be
happy to send you some more info. filippo |
| Q 5213:
Hi, I am considering putting a limestone floor in my kitchen. We have
dogs and lots of traffic. Is it true that it stains and scratches/breaks?
Can I seal it to prevent staining? Are there different thicknesses
or grades that my uphold to a high traffic kitchen area? Thanks, DM,
June 17,
Reply |
| R1:
Your concerning is quite reasonable since the facts you will encounter
is coincided with your prediction. For seal isn't a good way to prevent
scratch and polishing, I would not suggest that you adopt limestone:
it is too soft and vulnerable to sustain as flooring. ( Wall decoration
is proper) I introduce epoxy glue which is used greatly in marble
and granite installation process. Under normal circumstance, the glue
composed with two part: part A and part B, which are mixing together
while being operated. It is not toxic and very stable. Piness |
| R2:
A Honed (not polished) limestone is ideal for kitchen floors. Protect
with a good quality Silicone Impregnator. Let it stand for 30 minutes
and wipe off the excess material. Do not allow to dry on the surface.
You can mop or wash after 3-4 days with a neutral cleaning agent,
HMK |
| R3:
Dear DM: Change
your mind! If you like the look of limestone, get a hone-finished
marble instead.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5212: I had a flagstone
patio and walkway installed last summer. It looked fantastic - the
flagstone was in shades of blush, grey, and sand. Now much of the
patio stone is covered with a green film. The film seems to be below
the surface of the stone. I have tried to remove it by spraying water.
Of course this did nothing. It doesn't seem that it can be scaped
or scratched off either. What is this and how can I regain the look
of the original stone? I don't like this green stuff. Thank you so
much for responding to this questions. Barbara, June
16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Barbara: Try to power-wash it with a solution of water an regular
household bleach. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5211: We are replacing
our existing tile surround on our fireplace with granite tiles. The
sheetrock around the fireplace was damaged when the old tiles came
off and had to be removed. How can we install the new heaver granite
tiles to the wall without them shifting before the mortar sets?. We
tried to mortar the tiles directly onto a precut piece of sheetrock
but they fell right off when the piece was uprighted. Jim,
June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi .Your Mortar mix is either to wet or your using the wrong mix.
Glues are now available from various companies which allow for easy
installation to walls. Stone |
| Q 5210: I work as a
countertops sales person at a store and often I get a call from customers
asking me what is the grade of granite that we carry. I've called
our fabricators and they don't seem to know what the customers are
reffering to. I've searched the net for an answer and can't find anything
other than the fact that the darker granites are less porous, and
lighter colors are more scratch resistant due to their higher concentration
of quartz. Can anyone help me solve this mistery?! Is there a grading
for granite, or a quality standard for it? Thanks Daniela, June
16, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Daniela. Yes there is a grade. Through my limited experience in
this, I know that here, the purchasers of the material are the ones
who will know what grade it is. Unfortunately some pass it off as
top quality so finding out if its the top grade may be difficult.
It's not like beef, where they advertise A grade, but the difference
between the two can usually be told by the imperfections. Hair line
cracks, flaws, little holes and tinting are usually the obvious flaws.
Stone |
| R2:
Dear Daniela: Yes, of
course; like in any other natural product, the quality is not consistent.
In fact, in the lumber industry, the grading is mandated by law. The
stone industry - lucky us! - is totally unregulated, therefore grading
is not required and, therefore again, you'll never find anybody that
will disclose it to you, mainly because - like you found out already
- they don't even know what you're talking about! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5209: We recently
had Dakota Mohagany granite countertops installed in my kitchen. At
first glance they look great but tilt your head and look at the countertops
and I see what looks like many small water spots, "like if you
take glasses out of a dishwasher that have spots". I run my finger
nail across these spots and they are ruff or not finished. I am not
sure if the stone is poor quality. I read a previous questions about
"pitting" this may be what I am seeing but just not sure.
Can you provide some input on what I should ask my granite dealer?
Thanks, Brian, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Brian, those mat spots on Dakota Mahogany could very well be part
of the stone. Different consistency, or minerals within the stone
will take a shine differently when polishing giving it a less than
glass appearance. But it is a trait of granite. The only thing I could
suggest is going back to the shop look at the sample they expose and
then decide if they show a different grade than what you purchased.
This is a common claim, most customers don't notice that speckled
shine at the time of purchase and only notice it one day when at home,
under a particular light, under a particular angle. Ciao Stone |
| Q 5208: I have an old
home with the sub flooring as my basic floor. I'm looking for an inexpensive
clear resin or polymer that can be applied to my kitchen floor to
fill in the cracks and give it a fairly thick coat overall. Do you
recommend anything, and if so can you give me the pricing. It's a
small kitchen about 60 sq. ft. Bruce June
16, Reply
|
| R1:
You can purchase many epoxy roll or squeegee application type of product
that normally goes for about $100 a gallon. Covers great and gives
that thick look you want-you can contact me for the product or reference
to it in your area, BUT i did find a great replacement. First of all
you have to sand of the surface to make sure the finish sticks properly.
You should fill the voids before you put on that thick coat, or else
you will always get a dipping effect. And try using Base epoxy paint.
That epoxy paint you use for your garage floors, comes in Neutral
or clear color, then they color to your needs. Simply take it without
the color! Its cheap, and looks good. But you will have to take the
time to roll on many coats. PS. Always do a test before starting,
please. Stone |
| Q 5207: I have a contemporary
fireplace with a white-ish marble surround and hearth. I hate it,
but can't afford to replace it. Is there a product or methodology
whereby the marble can be "painted" or re-surfaced in some
way to make it look like something other than marble? However, I don't
want it to look like a cheezy paint job... Cindy, June 16,Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Cindy: You know what? You almost got me,
you little rascal you! Well, it's good to hear a good joke every now
and then! Thank you. Yes, of course, you can paint over your marble.
About the possibility of a "cheesy look", choose a paint
that doesn't look like cheese! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5206: We recently
had a new home built. I wanted a natural stone floor in the kitchen,
dining and foyer. Going on the advice of a family member who owns
a marble and granite company, he told us he could take polished marble
tiles, which he had at his shop and hone them with a muractic acid
wash. We took him up on his offer. Now after them having been installed
(over 700 sq. ft.), the finish on each tile is very inconsistent and
looks terrible. Some tiles have what looks like water spots, other
have areas that are still polished. Because this is a family member,
this is a very touchy situation. He recommended washing it with a
vinegar and water solution. Our installer tried this and it did nothing.
He now tells us that the tile needs another washing with a muratic
acid. Now my husband has to do this and has little experience with
this. Our installer said that after we do this he would come back
to reseal and buff the tiles. We are sick about this and are supposed
to move in to our home within two weeks. What do you recommend? Appreciate
any help or advice. Sincerely, Debbie June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Debbie. Wow with family members like that, HIDE. I'll be honest
you have a very touchy floor and may need a restorer to bring the
floor back not only for the look but later for the functionality.
If you know anyone who can operate a floor machine I can walk you
through it, step by step. You will need someone with experience to
walk you through it because every step will have to be tested and
the results will show what to do next. Contact us here if you need
me to walk you through. What I can say is whatever suggestion you
get, make sure they show you on one tile before. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Debbie: Wow, what
a mess! And with a family member involved! … I wouldn't want
to be in your shoes, I can tell you that. Go with Stone's suggestion.
I could do what he indicates, too, but not for free. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5205: How
would you remove oil from unsealed limestone floor? Kelly,
June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Kelly. A poultice for oil removal. I do have
a great product if the home remedies don't work. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Kelly: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of
those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5204: We
just had cashmere white installed as countertops in our kitchen. Some
dishes were left on the counter and there is a round stain from a
glass that I can't rub out. Is there a product I can use to extract
it? Gayle, June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Gayle, sounds like you need a poultice. For
the home remedy treatments, you need to know what kind of stain it
is, if not you will need a generic product good for most stains like
the one I use for my company. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Gayle: When it comes to stain removal, either
you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that
no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or
you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how
to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means
that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert PAnelist |
| Q 5203: I purchased
a lovely fossilstone (white) table at a garage sale. It is dirty and
I found that with the light side of a fingernail emory board (very
fine sandpaper), it cleans up with little pressure. May I do this
to the whole table to clean it? Will I have to put some coating on
it afterwards? Thank you. Jackie, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Hi , yes you will need to apply a paste wax afterwards. You can get
them here or probably trough your local stone supplier. Stone |
| Q 5202: I
have some old school black boards. Do you know what I could use them
for? June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Yes: hang them on the wall and write on them using some chalk. They
come in colors, too! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5199: I am planning
on installing marble on the walls and ceiling over my whirlpool tub/shower,the
question is i do not want any grout lines and i can't seem to find
any info on this procedure. i was thinking about warming up some silicone
sealant (so it would flow easier) on the exposed edges and work it
like that. i was planning on putting "mr" board up, screwing
and liquid nailing backer board then thin set mortar for the marble
adhesive. am i on the right track with all of this? thanks dan, June
16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dan: The technique you suggested is unknown and, therefore, the
results are unknown as well. If I were you I'd set the tiles using
flat toothpicks as spacer, and then grout. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5198: I
have a mall in New Orleans where we used flamed Chinese granite. The
mall is having problems keeping the stone clean. Any suggestions for
maintaining the stone, Krik, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Krik, yes but I would need more specific information, like how
it was cleaned , what has been used, how has it been treated, what
color and name and what dont you like about your cleaning results.
From there I can draw you a maitance sheet. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Krik: Sure! Call back the stone dealer and installation contractor
and have them solve your problem. After all, they made good money
out of that deal! In the … remote chance that it won't work,
I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5197: Caledonia
Granite was installed in our house under construction yesterday. When
I had a chance to view it that evening I noticed a 2 x 3 " dark
black spot on it. It really stands out like a sore thumb even though
this granite if full of black spots. It also has alot of irridecence
in it. It looks to me like someone to some black material with fine
glitter in it and patched the granite though I don't feel any difference
with my hands. Could you possibly tell me if this is a natural occurance
in this granite or a flaw. I have one other question about installation.
I assumed that he granite would be installed on a plywood base but
it is laid directly over the cabinets. Is this normal? I was told
that the granite had been sealed at the factory should this be sufficient?
Glad to be getting rid of my 30 year old formica! Kayleigh, June 16,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kayleigh: I can't comment on your dark spot without actually
seeing it, but that particular type of "granite" does have
many natural flaws throughout its texture. About the plywood backing,
it's not really necessary if the installation was done properly. Finally,
about the sealing, I strongly suggest you to run my little lemon juice
test to find out if your stone needs to be sealed or not. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5196: I am remodeling
my kitchen and have chosen to put in granite countertops. I have gotten
three different quotations for 1/2" thckness, 3/4" thick,
and 1-1/4" thick. Does the thickness matter that much? All have
said they would install standard bullnose edges. Of course the 1/2"
is the less expensive, but would the 1/2" crack or break more
readily? Thanks. Mary, June 16, Reply
|
| R1: Hi
Mary, well if its installed securely I don't see why it would but
... make sure you get some type guarantee for installation. My preference
is 1 1/4 if it matters. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Mary: ½"?...
Never heard of it. 2 cm. (3/4") or 3 cm. (1 ¼") are
both suitable. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5195: What
can be done to restore the original shine of a granite counter that
has dulled because of normal use, i.e. water spills, wiping clean,
regular use. Thanks, Neil, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
A stone restorer will have to be called in to
repolish the stone. Stone |
| Q 5194: We just installed
a granite counter top with a drop in sink. We now want an undermount
sink. Is this possible?? Thank you for response, O Gill, June 16,
Reply |
| R1:
A drop in has the edges finished very rough, on an undermount the
hole edge is high polished. Polishing the drop in hole on site is
messy and hard to do as a lot of water is used. Find a restorer like
myself and nothing is impossible, they will do it on site but the
cost will be expensive. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Kim: I'd be tempted to tell you to rip out the whole thing, install
something more suitable and live happily ever after, but I won't do
that, because I don't want to upset the slate people. Hopefully, if
any of them can manage to find a couple of minutes out of their busy
selling schedules, I'm sure that they will able to tell you what to
do, because I sure can't! I wouldn't hold your breath if I were you,
though! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5192: Hello
Just recently a cleaning company cleaned our home. In our master bathroom,
we have a stone tiled stand up shower. The company used Clorox bleach
to clean the grout (which wasn't that dirty - a little elbow grease
could have taken care of it) and unfortunately they did not rinse
the tiles well at all. The result is a white dull haze all over the
tiles. We have tried cleaning it, but I feel that its been etched
by the bleach. Can we recover our original smooth tile finish? If
so, could you point me in the right direction to do so? June 16, Reply |
| R1: You'll
need a restorer to buff the shine back in if its too deep. "Stone" |
| R2:
There
are two chances to that: NO WAY and NO HOW! Your diagnosis is right:
the surface of your stone has been etched. There's no "miracle-in-a-bottle"
that will restore the original finish of your marble tiles. You will
need the services of a bona fide stone refinishing contractor who
will have to hone and re-polish your marble. Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5190: I
have a uba tuba granite counter top that has a hair line crack about
12 inches long, how do I repair it? the installer tried a deep penetrating
epoxy but it not help the appearance (but he assured me that the crack
would not spread). I would like a repair that hid the crack. Rosselli,
June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rosselli: Penetrating epoxy is indeed the stuff to use to repair
AND hide airline cracks. But it’s just one part of the equation;
the other one being an operator who knows how to use it and what to
do.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5189: I
own a 1790 farm house with 3 priceless mantle's made by Adams. One
of them is black marble. The previous owner painted over the front
and top of the mantle in white paint. I have yet to find the courage
or way to strip the paint without damaging the stone itself. I was
told of NITROMORS or OXALIC acid to strip, beeswax to polish? I don't
know what is right, I know the marble is porous and scratchable. Are
there any safe steps? Any safe chemicals to do the job right? Appreciate
your time.Dan in NY, June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dan: Marble is not porous, but it does scratch easily. Oxalic
acid will NOT strip your paint: it will only damage your marble. Be
wax will NOT polish your marble: marble is polished by abrasion and
friction, like gemstone, not by putting some sort of wax onto its
surface and then buffing it up. To strip the paint you will need a
paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (available at any hardware
store). After that, to re-polish your marble you will need the services
of a bona-fine stone restoration contractor. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5188: We recently
purchased a previously owned dining set made of fossil stone. The
surface has many water stains, spots, and needs to be replaced to
bring up its shine. I would appreciate any advise you can give. We
live in the Philadelphia, Pa. area, so we do have access to home improvement
stores. Thank you. Seanut, June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Seanut: I'm glad to hear that you have access
to home improvement stores. They can always come in handy! But not
in this case they don't! All the "water stains" you have
on your table top are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various
acidic substances that became in contact with the surface of the stone,
i.e.: drinks, salad dressing and so on through a long list. You will
need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who
will have to hone and re-finish your table top. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5187: I have gotten
a steal of a deal on some marble and am thinking about putting it
on my countertops, but want to know about its durability, heat resistance
and general usability in the kitchen. We are a very small family of
three with our daughter off to college within a short while. Do you
have any information regarding the pros and cons of marble countertops
for my kitchen. I am so excited about this possibility Stephaine,
June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Stefany: I'm sorry to be the one to pour water on the fire, but
you do NOT want any polished marble anywhere in your kitchen! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5184: I am considering
having honed granite for my counter top in my kitchen. I would buy
the slab and the fabricator will hone it. What are the pro's and con's
for a honed counter top in the kitchen. Is it harder to maintain than
shiny granite. Does it have the same resistance as shiny granite.
Do I have to have it sealed more often? Any other advise? How expensive
is it to have my fabricator hone it? Susie, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susie: It all depends on the color of the "granite".
Dark-colored granites (black, for instance) turn out to be maintenance
nightmare due to surface staining (no sealer will do anything to prevent
that. Only a stone color enhancer could minimize the problem). Light-colored
"granites" would be much better. Resistance is the same,
and frequency of sealing (if and when necessary) will depend on the
make of the impregnator sealer. Some impregnators need to be applied
once a year, some other can go as long as 10 years or better! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5183:
I am renovating a 1900 Philadelphia rowhouse. I was sold on Corian
(I work for DuPont), but found Durango stone today at a granite/marble
retailer. The shop told me that Durango CAN be used on countertops,
but did caution it is more porous than granite (which I have had in
the past with ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEM). Is Durango suitable for a kitchen
- we have no children and are neat! June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
No, not really. Durango travertine (from Mexico) is less porous than
true geological granite, and up to par (porosity-wise) with many dense
mercantile granites. Porosity is not the problem: the chemical makeup
of the stone is: Calcium Carbonate. It will etch like crazy, and no
miracle-in-a-bottle on the market can do anything to prevent that!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5182: I
have a 3-year-old limestone shower (sealed) that has darkened in areas
probably due to soap scum & grease. How do I clean it out and
reseal it? Please recommend products. Thanks. Wesley
, June 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Wesley: I doubt very highly that the darkening of some of the
tiles is due to soap scum and grease (grease?? What do you do, you
cook in your shower stall?! :-)). It is most likely that you have
water behind those darker tiles. Big problem, sorry. Get the contractor
who did installation to come back and solve the problem. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 5181: I accidently
spilled some vinegar on my marble floor. To buff out the haze, I bought
some tin oxide as some posts have suggested. I really rubbed hard,
but the shine is not coming back. The area is probably one square
foot. What should I do now? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Kelvin, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelvin:Yes, of course, tin oxide alone will not work. I do believe
I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5180: We just had
granite countertops installed in our kitchen. We have an island as
well. A lot of our neighbors have granite throughout their house and
have told me that vinegar is great to use to help clean the granite.
What is your opinion of using vinegar to clean the granite? Thanks,
Deb, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Deb: Please, you do NOT want me to answer
your question. I promised to myself not to use any foul language on
this forum! :-)The proper maintenance of granite countertops is a
subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that
they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner
- let alone vinegar! - my Italian blood reaches the boiling point
at the speed of light!). Don't become another statistic! You can get
my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5179: Your write up
on the porosity of granite and variants is very helpful. I could not
figure out why the beautiful granite tiles I bought absorb water and
darken quite rapidly from the water. I figured they need to be sealed
but wondered why my kitchen redo books refer to granite as "water
resistant" and "stain resistant" and "highly impervious".
So it appears that I indeed need to apply a stone sealer to what I
bought. I will also do the acid test you mention and can only hope
for good results. A question, if you don't mind- do I seal the granite
tiles before or after cutting and installing for my kitchen counters?
Many thanks, Lisa, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: The term: granite covers a huge array of different stones
that are miles apart from true geological granite. IN the USA it is
illegal to label as granite stones that granite are not, but nobody
seems interested at seeing the law enforced. Anyway, answering to
your question, do NOT seal your "granite" tiles before installation.
Only a week or so after installation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5178: For most sealants
that I am aware of, the total depth of the sealant cannot be more
the 1/2 its width. Without maintaining this critical ratio, one almost
ensures a loss of bond. Therefore, applying the sealant to the surface
and carefully tooling it seems a good solution. However, I am not
aware of any documentation recommending this practice. On a different
note, be cautious with your type of sealant. The oils in silicones
are proven to stain granite over prolonged periods of time. Regards
Ron, June 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: I don’t want to sound un-polite,
but … what on earth are you talking about?! :)Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5177: I have specified
granite slab installations for many countertops, and I have now encountered
my first horror story. We requested a 3cm Tropic Brown kitchen counter,
backsplash and bar installation for a job in another state from a
fabricator who appeared to be credible. I had made several calls to
check on their reputation for performing good work. Was I sorry. The
templated slabs did not fit. They had to go back to their shop to
be recut. After two days, they were installed. However, the seams
are not smooth, the colored epoxy ? seems to be chipping out of the
seams. I have even cut my arm sliding it across one of the seams.
There are water-like marks all over the slabs. I've never had this
happen. Does this mean it was not sealed? How does this get fixed?
Also, I can see very small pits all over the granite. And, several
of the radius cut edges are hazy-like - almost grayish. I would interpret
this to mean that it was not polished correctly and uniformly. The
installers also did not clean the surfaces well, and I had to get
a razor and scrape off much of the hardened adhesive. I have never
encountered an install like this. I have not paid the balance due
on this project, and I would like some advise on what to do. Your
response will be greatly appreciated, Sandra, June
16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sandra: What do you expect me to tell you? Fro what you're reporting
you've got a raw deal, which is not acceptable by any existent and
inexistent standard, and you're gonna have to deal with it. About
the "stains" I believe that it could be the sealer (impregnator)
that the fabricator may have applied on your stone. Tropic Brown typically
does not need to be sealed. I'm truly sorry to hear your story. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5176: I read your
reply regarding whether unpolished granite is a good choice for a
shower. I am considering using Giallo Veneziano granite for my shower
stall? I am concerned that it may too porous for a shower and hoping
to get more information about this particular granite. If you think
it would work in a shower stall, how often would I need to seal the
granite? Or should I replace my damaged cultured marble with cultured
marble? Amy, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Ciao Amy No the granite is a better choice, since the acidity
of the products will not affect the stones finish. Properly sealed
it will last for a long time. I would seal it regularly every 1 to
3 years. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Amy, As with most applications there are always a number
of issues. Apart from the Juperanas and Paradisos, Giallo Veneziano
is one of the more porous granitic stones around. Being siliceous
and porous means that it is amenable to sealing using a number of
different sealers available that are appropriate for this application.
Because you are going to use it in a shower stall and have it sealed
there is an obvious slip issue. You will find that a honed finish
(even at 80 grade) will be slippery in the presence of soap. Therefore
you should think of a bright-etched, bush-hammered, sand-blasted or
even exfoliated finish. It is not a particularly strong granite so
you might want to be looking at 20mm thick stone. Once the floor has
been sealed with at least two coats (might even need 4 depending on
the surface finish) it shouldn't need sealing again for a long time
(at least 10 years). Don't be duped by the thousands of salesmen out
there who know nothing about the science of sealing and everything
about taking your money. The other issue of putting any stone into
a shower stall is the construction of the base. If you are intending
to put stone into a shower stall thinking that sealing is going to
prevent the escape of water, think again. Buildings move, grouts crack
and sealants eventually become permeable. Even waterproof membranes
are not infallible. I presume that you already have a stainless steel
tray in your shower stall. If not, invest in one. With that security,
it doesn't matter if you have a porous granite. (Dr. Hans) Expert
Panelist |
| R3:
Dear Amy: Giallo Veneziano, when properly sealed with a suitable,
good-quality impregnator/sealer, will do just fine in a shower stall!
Some good impregnators will last several years (5, 10 or better!),
before you will ever need to re-apply them! Maintenance, if implemented
with the proper know-how and products, will be a breeze! Giallo Veneziano
is certainly not going to give you the problems you've been having
with your plastic (cultured marble). You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5175: I have installed
Natural Granite Bianco Catalina 12 x 12 tiles as my kitchen countertop.
I have rounded the front edge with an angle grinder and masonry grinding
stone and then gone through 500, 800, 1000, 3000, and 10000 grit diamond
sanding pads. The edges turned out very good but are still just a
little dull. Also where I rolled up with the sanding pad onto the
countertop, it has dulled slightly when compared to the glassy finish
from the factory. How do they polish the granite to the glass finish
at the factory. I have tried a diamond "edge bar" with a
buffing wheel and gotten it a little better but still not perfect.
I also have a quart of a product called Super Diamond
from Italy that is like a black grease that I do not want to try because
it darkened the test piece I tried. Any advice would be appreciated.
Please also forward more information on your maintenance guide. Thanks
Casey, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Sounds like you did the proper procedure. The
only thing I can think of is that one of the grits was not passed
properly, which caused a dullness in the finish. And lastly the wax
you used at the end comes in clear, which should be applied lightly
one night and removed using fine steel wool the next day. Work on
12 inches until you get right, in the same fashion as you described.
Stone |
| R2:
Dear Casey: You can't really expect that my Maintenance Guidelines
are going to teach you how to polish granite edges, can you?! :-)For
that, alas, I don't have an answer. Usually, diamond polishing - in
the hands of a professional (sorry, no offense intended) - is plenty
enough. Try to apply some paraffin wax and buff it up using "00"
steel-wool pads. It's not actual polishing, but it may do the trick
for you! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5174: We have travertine
in our entry and absolutely love it. The installers did a wonderful
job and mixed a few "dots" of our granite in to spice it
up. We like the travertine so much that we want to put it on the raised
side of our pool. This would not sit in the water but about six inches
above the water line. It would definitely get chlorinated water on
it, a lot. We were told by one local shop that they could seal it
but the chlorine would eat away the sealant and eventually damage
the travertine. We like an old world look and don't mind aging or
scratches on the surface. We have seen a number of travertine pool
decks and hoped that the application to the side of the pool would
work. We are not opposed to going with marble if that will resolve
the sealing\chlorine issue. What are your thoughts? Happy, June 11,
Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Happy, many of my clients have travertine pools as you described.
It is a beautiful look and has resisted over the years. Where I see
a problem is if you install it polished. Forget it! Make sure you
ask for a mat or honed finish. Also having it tumbled is a must for
this application. The granite can go in polished and it adds a nice
touch. Where you want to be careful is with the setting materials.
Be sure to get it in writing for the manufacturing company and follow
their directives. This is needed for the guarantee. What I have too
often seen, is the setting materials bleed through the stone because
of the large amounts of humidity and the use of improper adhesives
and grouts. Stone |
| R2:
There is no issue. Travertine is one of the densest varieties of limestone
available. Just because of the presence of gas holes many dealers
think that the basic stone is porous. Being dense you don't seal it.
Where the hell is the sealer going to go. It's like sealing black
granite and Blue Pearl - they absorb very little sealer and therefore
don't serve any useful purpose. And don't fall for that impregnating
rubbish. Because of its composition it is highly unlikely that chlorinated
water is going to be detrimental to the travertine. (Dr. Hans), Expert
Panelist |
| R3:
Dear Happy: Go with hone-finished and unfilled travertine, forget
the stupid sealer, and be …well … Happy! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5173: I'm moving to
a new house with Granite kitchen countertop. I don't know what type
of granite it is, all I know is that it's color is Luna Pearl. I was
told by the installer that I need to seal this prior to using it because
the installer does not seal it.The other product is called Impregnator
(I didn't get the manufacturer) and is about $80.00 a gallon. Are
these good products and worth using? Do you have any product that
you can recommend and easy to find in stores here in San Jose, California?
Thanks in advance. Gil, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Gil, I can reccomend you the product if you
get the names, I have used most of them. It is a must to do so. Stone
|
| R2:
Dear Gil: Luna Pearl is not a color, is a granite. As a matter of
fact it's THE granite! It is somehow porous and it will need to have
an impregnator-sealer applied in it, and it is customary that a reputable
fabricator/installer does the sealing. I do not consider an impregnator/sealer
as a consumer product. About the specific product your installer suggested
you to buy, I have no comment. I need to know the name of the product
to tell you whether or not is suitable for Luna Pearl. Maurizio |
|
|
| Q 5171: My husband and
I are contractors, we've installed ceramic tile a million times over.
We recently did our first (polished) marble job. Uncertain as to what
was all involved, we sealed the tile on both the walls and floors
after simply first just wiping them down. Not realizing there were
some smudges, the tile is now sealed and these "spots" are
there and visible. What do we do? I have the customer on hold right
now, hoping I could find out a solution. Do you have one? Thanks for
your help. Jennifer, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: Why did you seal those marble tiles? What do you expect
the sealer to do for your customer? Since when polished marble needs
to be sealed? Since when do you want to seal tiles (assuming that
they need to be sealed, which is not the case here) BEFORE installation?
What kind of smudges are you talking about? Couldn't they be smudges
that you made by not removing completely every residue of the stupid
sealer (that had no business being there to begin with) off the surface
of the tiles? Why don't you treat the tiles by removing every residue
of the sealer? I'm POSITIVE that the person who told you seal and
sold you the sealer will know what to do!! There's not much else that
I can tell you, sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
I tried to understand
your letter, anticipating every possible circumstance , but what your
stating is very unclear. From what I understood, try to reapply some
sealer to one smudged tile and wipe it off completlely and see if
the spots dissappear. The sealer should disolve what was left on which
is what I suspect happenned. If not contact me again but I will need
more imformation and possibly some shots. Don't panic, I really don't
think it's very bad. "Stone" |
| Q 5170:
I am wondering if anyone knows how to clean an Alabaster statue I
have received from my grandparents, she is quite dirty and discoloured
and I don't want to experiment with any commercial products on her
and risk damage. Many thanks, H Pomery, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear H Pomery: Get hold of a proven stone restoration professional,
if you care about your statue. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
Try only a mild soap,
Ivory or Dove and water with a small soft brush. If that doesn't work
you should ask a local expert. Such old lamps can fall apart if cleaned
improperly. Stone |
| Q 5169: I
have limestone countertops that look a mess. How can I get them resurfaced?
What are the dos and don'ts with limestone in a kitchen? I also have
a few small spots where lemon juice splashed on marble counters when
I suddenly cut myself? How can I repair this? Help asap, please! Thank
you, Denise, June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Denise:Here's the classical example of a stone that could be
more than enjoyable if installed, say, in Turkey, Italy, Spain, or
India, but that becomes a nightmare when placed within the Northern
America culture. You have two options: 1. A silly one: get hold of
a reputable stone restoration contractor and be ready to budget some
big bucks to have them come back every year or so to re-hone your
countertop. 2. A smart one: get rid of it and have installed a different
material that suits your desire to have a countertop which will look
brand-new all the time. Hey, it's only money! About the lemon juice
etching on your marble countertop, you will probably need the services
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor. You could try to do it
yourself, though. If you consider yourself - or someone in your family
- a handy person, gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Wow, what a headache.
After a restorer brings it back, I would defiantly seal it with an
enhancer. This makes the stone as dark as possible which would make
it difficult for it to stain again. As far as your lemon "stains,"
they are in reality etchings. Etchings can only be removed trough
polishing. What I do with a customer that is a little handy. after
restoration I teach them how to do it themselves with the use of a
prestablished recipe. Its much like compound and polishing of a car,
you can get it done or do it yourself. But I try as best I can to
leave an impossible stone to a manageable counter. Ciao Stone |
| |
| Q 5167: I
have installed travertine in my kithcen and vestabule. I noticed that
the edges of the stone are chipped and rough. When I slide my foot
across the tile, I actually can cut my foot. I think that the builder
did not grout it properly. Any advice, Lori, June
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: Yes, of course, and an easy one, too! Get your builder's
butt back into the picture and have them solve the problem. They made
good money out of that floor, didn't they?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Lori, if the stone installed was polished, it sounds like a poor installation
job. If that's the case, the only remedy is a complete restoration.
You need an expert and your installer to take care of this. Pricing
for this can be around $10 per foot with a minimum of $1000. This
opinion of course is based on what I understood and read, for more
precise info contact me here with more detailed info. Ciao Stone |
| Q 5166: We are in the
process of selecting granit or marble for our kitchen countertop.
Our research thus far indicates go with granite because of its hardness
and greater resistance to staining or cracking. However, we love the
soft look of marble. Would you be so kind to give your expert opinion
on choosing between these two stones? Also, please give me the information
on stone maintenance you mention often since I do not want to become
another statistic. Thanks, Lou, June 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lou:Marble - like any other calcite-based stone - is
a "soft stone" (therefore it scratches easily) and very
sensitive to pH active liquids (therefore it "stains" -
etch-marks, that is - quite readily). A hone-finished marble surface
would be more "forgiving" in the sense that - by not being
highly polished - it will show less the very same damages that will
occur on it anyway. With time it will change its original looks. Such
feature, which is very sought after by the Mediterranean and South
Asia communities (it's like when people like the looks of an old pair
of blue-jeans, if you know what I mean), is not accepted by the Northern
European and Northern American culture. They like their stones to
look brand-new all the time.Granite has none of that. Choose the right
one and maintain it right and it WILL like new all the time! But,
please, don't ask me which ones are the right "granites".
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. Maurizio Expert Panelist |
| Q 5165: We recently
moved into a home with a bathroom that has a limestone countertop
around the sink. We don’t know what kind it is other than to
say it is dark green/gray in color. We were cleaning the sink bowl
with tilex ( I think), and some dripped onto the limestone and has
stained it. I know you’re not a fan of limestone, but we’re
stuck with it and would like to know how to attempt to get rid of
the stain. Thanks, Kathleen, June 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathleen: If it were a stain, I'd be glad to point you in the
right direction on how to do it yourself; but since it's a "stain"
instead, There's only one thing I can tell you: get hold of a reputable
stone restoration contractor. The pH activity of the product you mentioned
is the culprit that did the deed! Your "stain" is actually
a mark of corrosions. The surface of your stone must be re-ground
a little bit (honed), and then re-finished. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panleist |
| Q 5164: I have a uba
tuba granite counter top that has a hair line crack about 12 inches
long, how do I repair it? the installer tried a deep penetrating epoxy
but it not help the appearance (but he assured me that the crack would
not spread). I would like a repair that hid the crack. Roselli, June
11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Roselli: The idea of using penetrating epoxy
to fix a hairline crack is good. There's a little tiny problem, though:
one has to know how to do it right! It doesn't seem to be case here,
does it?! Unfortunately, I don't think that I can help you from here.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5163: In the redesign
process for a powder room with very little use, I am looking for a
mostly solid (very few color variations) cream colored material. I
have found granite to be too "busy" for the small space,
and am unsure about choosing a material. I have considered everything
from limestone, marble and travertine to concrete. I love the look
of stone (honed) and want the front edge to have (if possible) a ragged,
rough cut look. Help! Stephaine. June 11, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Stephanie:Hone-finished Crema Marfil or Botticino marbles are
"your man"! About the chiseled edge finish, you're gonna
have to work it out with you fabricator. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5161: I have a prune
juice ring from a glass that was sitting on my black marble night
stand. How can I remove the ring? Susan, June 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: Only one thing: get hold of a reputable stone restoration
contractor. The acidity of the prune juice is the culprit that did
the deed! Your "stain" is actually a mark of corrosions.
The surface of your stone must be re-ground a little bit (honed),
and then re-polished. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5160: I have a hunter
green marble top on our bar in our kitchen. It sets on my wooden kitchen
cupboard bases. Quite awhile ago I noticed that there are several
round (from the glass) water spots on it. The whole top used to be
very smooth and shiny, now that spot is dull. What can I do? Thanks!
Terri, June 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Terry: Only one thing: get hold of a reputable stone restoration
contractor. Those "Water stains" you have were not generated
by water and are not stains to begin with. They're rather marks of
corrosions that various drinks contained in the glasses sitting on
your top have made. The surface of your stone must be re-ground a
little bit (honed), and then re-polished. Be ready for a "shocking"
number! And BTW, don't forget to send a heartfelt thank-you note to
the people who sold and installed that material for you for the intelligence
they gave to you about the possible problems and proper maintenance
procedures. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5159: Hi - I happened
upon your website while researching granite. We have picked (but not
purchased yet) a stone called "Kinawa Bianco". The slab
dealer that has it says its granite, and an excellent stone. I found
kinawa, but not "bianco" on your site. Another slab dealer
told us they didn't carry Kinawa Bianco, as it is near the "end
of its run" at the quarry, and not good quality. He said we should
ask a dealer to take the slab outside, pour water on the front side,
and see if water soaks thru to the back, revealing fissures and weak
points, which shouldn't be there. Have you heard of this? How long
must the lemon sit on the stone to see if it etches or not? Most importantly,
have you heard of Kinawa Bianco, and is it really granite, and what
quality? Thank you so much, this is a HUGE decision for us, a very
very costly, we want to go in armed with knowledge! Thanks, Accons,
June 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Accons: A little confusing, ain't it?!I don't know much
a bout Kinawa Bianco, besides the fact that it's a granite just as
much as I am the President of Ruanda Urundi! Check the table of 150
granites by Dr, Daniel, and find out what Kinawa "granite"
(Bianco or what-have-you) is. I have no idea if such material is at
the end of its run, but if it is, I promise you that it won't be missed!
About water soaking through, it has nothing to see with fissures and
weak points, but with the very nature (high absorbency rate) of the
beast. My little lemon juice test is not meant to find out after how
long a certain "granite" will etch, but whether or not a
certain "granite" will etch. All that said, I seldom comment
about any one particular stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5158: We've decided
to install Crema Marfil marble in our newly renovated kitchen and
foyer. We're empty nesters and do not expect alot of traffic so we're
not concerned with the amount of maintenance and care that we'll have
to deal with. My question pertains to the grading of this product.
I found a Q&A on your web site that described that the quarry
grades it as Residential and Commercial with Residential being the
better grade. Okay fine. But several installers have recommended using
Crema Marfil Select (at twice the cost) for greater consistency in
color, cutting, etc. However, my inquiry to the "stone stores"
indicates that there may not really be a difference between the Select
and regular stone for Crema Marfil. What's the real answer? Thanks
for your help. Sandler Perry, June 10, Reply
|
| R1:
The real answer seems evident enough. If the constancy and
color of the higher grade is more pleasing to your eye, than purchase
it. If it makes no difference, than get the lesser of the two. Especially
since you say traffic is not an issue. However, the traffic statement,
I would be skeptical about. I have customers here who after a week
of installation, were very surprised to find out how porous it really
was. One spill, one accident is all you need. "Stone" |
| R2:
My experience is the material labeld as select is what is used for
slabs and consistent tiles. Good luck, Steven, Expert Panelsit
|
| R3:
Dear Sir, I suggest that you choose regular stocking in store due
to no big difference between Select and regular. Because there is
not much space for decoration in your kitchen and foyer, it is not
necessary to describe color consistency strictly. Piness |
| R4:
Basically, there are three types of crema marfil
produced from the quarry. First choice being the best ones. The second
one is standard grade, and the third is commercial grade. Normally,
first choice and standard grade can be mix together since there are
not much difference b/w them. Just do not mix it with commercial grade
because there will be difference in the colour and veins. Therefore,
I recommend using first choice and standard. Price difference b/w
first choice and standard is around USD. 8.00 - 10.00. Milan |
R5:
The crema marfil marble have in origen diferent clasification: A)
Special o first class B) Second class C) Comercial class. When you
are talking about Select Class and regular stone is very dificult
to assimilar with the original classification.
The original classification are refered with the color and texture
properties and not with the phisico mechanics properties this are
similar in all classes.
The Special or first class is more light, less stylolites marks, less
fractures and less microfossiles. Is the most homogeneus in color
and texture.
In the second class you can observe more stylolites with yellow paddind
in it. The color is more brown. And the C Class is more unhomogeneus,
more brown and with a lot of fractures (stylolites) and microfossiles.
The first class is the better refering color and texture but all classes
have the same mechanical properties. Best regards Miguel |
| R6:
Dear Sandler Perry: Yes, I've heard of a Crema Marfil quarry using
the word Select in its grading of the stone, and I agree that's top-notch.
I don't think there's much difference between that and a good grade
"residential", however, but even you should be able to tell.
About the store comment about a "regular" Crema Marfil,
I'd like them to give me their own definition of "regular"
:-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R7:
The only differences between Select or Residential or Commercial material
is in the uniform colour , no cracks , no spots , absence of holes
, crystals and mastic. The maintenance for any quality is the same
, as the technical characteristics. If you look for technical test
, the data are the same for any different choice. can be a very light
difference of strong ness from two materials excavated in the same
quarry , in two different location , but not can have influences in
the maintenance of material Alfredo |
| Q 5157: We
have been without a kitchen for over 4 months now and were finally
ready to install the granite in hopes of having a sink this week.
We have run into a dilemma. We just paid for a slab of Red Maranace
at Brazil/CA. When my Fabricator / Installer showed up to pick up
the slab he was concerned about thin raised lines stemming through
out the slab. The owner of the Granite facility told me the lines
are called "fishers?" and are common with Red Maranace Granite
and are visable on all the Red Maranace slabs at his yards.The Green
and Brown Maranace didn't seem to have these fishers. I questioned
the owner about these line possibly being fratures. The owner mentioned
my installer may not have the proper experience or tools to cut this
granite and he has the same granite in his home. My installer doesn't
want to be responsible if the granite should fall apart. I need to
decide today on the Red Maranace (Which over much deliberation- my
wife and I agreed upon), or a last minute switch to Emerald pearl.
What do you recommend? Frustrated, fractured and fishered Craig, June
3, Reply
|
| R1:
Hello to Frustrated. Fissured to me, means a poor quality stone. There
are, things you can do from backing the stone with fiberglass, to
filling the surface with flowing epoxy...but...why would anyone want
to pay for a fractured stone which can present problems. And if you
trust you're fabricator, and he does not want to work with a certain
stone, I would listen. Emerald Pearl is a very very hard stone, perfect
for kitchen counters. "Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Graig: Natural fissures are never raised. I can't figure out
exactly what you problem is, but I don't like the sound of it. I would
have encouraged you to switch to Emerald Pearl. Mauizio, Expert Panleist
|
| Q 5156: email
me relevant information on chinese white granite and any possible
problems and remedies sealing consistency staining thanking you in
advance john, June
3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear John:I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may
be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I
did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a
Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have
me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be
glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all of your
money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it
comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic!Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5155: I have giallo
veneziano granite countertops ( 3 months old). Got olive oil on it
and forgot to clean it up. Used the acetone method (suggested by maurizo,
usa. I used afta). I left on overnight and got concerned because it
appeared to be discoloring the stone. Took it off - looks awful. The
il stain is still there and a square discoloration now exists. I tried
heating the stone with a blower dryer and wiping with towel. No change.
Called the place where I purchased the stone (shoud have done that
first). They said they will give me some wax to put on it. Any suggestions
from you. thank you, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
I am gonna pull my hair out! I dont get why you're stone discolored.
Has it been treated with a product to enhance its color? Normally
oil is very easily removed with a poultice treatment- I have one which
has worked on oil with very little failure results. I would not cover
it with wax since you will also be covering the oil, then how will
you get it out? Form the sound of it, removing the oil would be step
one and then, applying this wax to bring back the faded color. "Stone"
|
| R2:
I'm sorry to hear that.
No mineral solvent could ever damage natural stone. What probably
happened is that the impregnator/sealer applied by the fabricator
got damaged by the acetone. A few low-quality sealers do that. I suggest
to have all the impregnator removed, followed by the application of
a better one, so you won't have any more oil stains to begin with.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5153: We are building
a new home and I have read your comments regarding Santa Cecilia.
First of all, is there a difference in Santa Cecilia Light, Dark or
Classic? Also, if you do not recommend this pseudo granite, do you
have a recommendation for one that is similar in color. Marie, June
3, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Marie:There no substantial differences between the three stones
you mentioned, besides the way they look, of course. A couple of years
ago I was considering them "borderline" (MY borderline!),
but the introduction on the marketplace of new high-tech and quite
effective impregnator/sealers made me upgrade the rating of the Giallos
among the "good guys". However, I seldom comment about any
one particular stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5152: I'm looking
at purchasing some Verde Fuoco granite for kitchen counter tops. Could
you please tell me what the difference/pros/cons is in the thickness
between 3cm and 2cm?...Besides the obvious 1cm??? Thanks, Mary, June
3, Reply |
| R1:
The thicker, does not mean its stronger. Thicker could be nicer when
it comes to finishing the edges. Make sure your installation is really
secure and solid. Make sure the counters are really sturdy before
the granite is laid..thats the secret. I can walk on top of my wood
preparation, I then secure the counter on top making certain there
are no voids underneath. "Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Mary: There are two schools of thought about the 3 cm. vs. the
2 cm. laminated. They are both technically sound. I like the 2 cm.
laminated better. Besides aesthetic considerations, my main motivation
is the undebatable fact that a 3 cm. countertop is 50% heavier than
its 2 cm. counterpart. It may not seem like a real issue, but if you
consider that houses in this country are build on wood frames, with
wood joists holding the floor, and that Lady Gravity is a bitch that
never takes a vacation, or a sick day, or even a coffee break …
you fill the blanks! One of the drawback with a 2 cm. laminated is
the fact that it does require a better fabricator. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5151: I am considering
using Bateig Fantasia, a limestone (also called Bateig Beige) in my
bathroom. I would use 1 1/4" slab on the vanity, tub and shower
seat tops. In addition, I would use tiles on my bathroom floor. Someone
advised me that Bateig stones are extremely porous and not appropriate
for bathrooms. Someone else said they are fine, as long as you seal
them periodically. What do you think? How often would I need to seal
it? Thanks. Jill, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Jill, they should be sealed when they show signs of absorption.
Normally I would do it about once a year, making sure the first time
is done right of course. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Jill:I honestly don't know much about that particular
stone. Only heard of it in a couple of occasions. Generally speaking,
however, I am not fond of limestone. The majority of installations
are successful, mind you, but I've seen enough failures - all of which
without a solution - to make me consider limestone kind of risky.
I don't want to scare you, but I felt it my professional duty to make
you aware of my previous experiences. That said, the frequency by
which a stone needs to be sealed is strictly related to the type (make
and brand) of impregnator/sealer used. Some are rated for one years
(but usually they last at least a couple of years), others are rated
for 10 years or better (and it's true). You pick! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5150: What
are the chemical and mechanical characteristics of Carrara Marble?
I am particuarly interested in the tensile, flexual, compression and
MOR properties. Thanks, Ron, June 3,
Reply |
| R1:
Bianco Carrara, originating in Italy. Actually
the whole city is built on Carrara, very cool. The tensile strength
is 202kg/cm2, the Compressive strength is 1334 kg/cm2, fictional wear
test 0.58mm, coeff. thermal expansion 0.0063 mm/m Celsius. Ciao Stone
|
|
| Q 5148: What
are the pros and cons of using glazed lava stone for kitchen counters?
I know it's expensive (definitely a con!) but the kitchen is small-to-medium
sized and most of the countertop surface will be on a 3'x 6' penninsula.
How does it compare to granite in terms of absorption, ease of upkeep,
and durability? Is it hard to obtain and fabricate? I saw a picture
of a glazed lava stone countertop in a magazine and loved the look.
Thank you so much for any information or experience you can share!
Andrea, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
I would consider it a feature of natural stone...enjoy
what occured millions of years ago! Marni |
| Q 5147: I
just had new granite (ubatuba) kitchen countertops installed. In one
of the slabs there is a very prominent imperfection -- it is a long
black intrusion through the stone, approximately 6-inches by 2-inches.
It does not look like there is a crack or any structural defect, it
is purely a color imperfection. I know that a certain amount of natural
variations will occur, but this is so large it looks as if someone
spilled black wine on the counter. Are these color streaks common
and considered an attractive sign of the natural stone, or are they
considered an undesirable flaw? I did not choose the slab and am considering
having it replaced.
June 3, Reply
|
| R1:
Hmmm … I have no comment about that. I guess you're gonna have
to work this out with your fabricator. Maurizio |
| Q 5146: #1 Impala Black
kitchen countertops - so far have just been using water - afraid to
use anything else, only problem is that the manufacturers/installers
marks can be seen when water is applied appearing as 3 concenctric
darker circles. I have no idea what sealers, etc. were used - does
it need to be sealed and if so can we do it ourselves?
#2 Sapphire Brown bathroom vanity
- same as above - just want to know if we should seal and how to
keep up safely.
#3 Dark Noce natural stone tile purchased
at Lowe's, on the bathroom shower floor only. Need to know how to
care for and how to seal if necessary.
I have looked throughout your website
for the past 2 hours and have yet to figure this out for myself.
Please help. Edmond, June 3, Reply
|
| R1:
I can supply you with a detailed maintenance sheet if you need. Stone
I will need an address to mail you the personalized chart. I will
also inform you where you can purchase the products locally or we
can ship them from here if they are available in your area. Ciao Stone
|
| R2:
Dear Edmond: You could find all the answers to your questions in my
maintenance guidelie for residential stone installations. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5145: Your sight is
so filled with information, I am a bit overwhelmed. As I complete
granite novice, I recently ordered green butterfly for countertops
in my kitchen after seeing it is excellent on your website. But I
can't seem to find whether I need to seal the counters and with what
sealant-if necessary and /or how to prevent staining on the new counters.
Thanks for any words to the ignorant. Gail June
3, Reply |
| R1:
On granite counters ask for an oil repellent impregnator and maintaining
product for every day cleaning. A proper cleaner will not break down
the impregnator or sealer you put on. Ciao Stone |
| R2:
Dear Gail:Typically VB does not need to be sealed. Just make sure
to maintain it right. Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5144: My
parents are building a new kitchen. They have not yet chosen the granite
they will be using, but they know they want it to be a dark green.
If money were no object and somebody said to you, I want dark green,
what is the best kind, brand, finish, etc. etc. What would you say?
Please tell me for use in a kitchen, what we be the absolute best
dark green granite, and please tell me specifics so that they can
tell their contractor what to order. It should be the most durable.
Stain resistant, oisture resistant available. Thanks! Josie
June 3,
Reply |
| R1:
Hi Josie-Nice question, my fav is Emerald Green or Emerald Pearl,
I have never in my 16 years of playing with stone found a problem
with it, but....there are so many nice stones offered by dealers today
its worth the look. Get a sample, bring it home, and drop things like
you would on the counter, oil, water, meat, keys. See for yourself,
if you take an extra week to do this, who cares! The granite you are
going to choose is supposed to stand the test of time, take your time
to choose properly. Ciao "Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Josie: I've got good news for you! All dark green "granites"
are quite good. I don't think there's a "very best", and
price is certainly not an indication of quality. It's only demand
and supply. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 5143: First, we are
considering Blue Pearl (granite) or White Statuary (marble) for kitchen
countertop. Which would be better and less troublesome, and why?
Second, we are considering Black marble (Grico Carinco) or Almond
Mauve granite for bathroom countertops. Which would be better and
less troublesome, and why? I would appreciate having your reply. Nemi
June 3, Reply |
| R1:
Blue pearl or any granite counters can handle wear and tear better
as well as not being affected by acid, like vinegar, coca cola tooth
paste, etc. Marble is softer, more scratch prone and if shiny will
lose its luster quickly. But Marble is found in a white or light colors
and granite is usually only dark in color. IF you do choose Carrera
or any other marble on the counter, choose a Honed finish (mat) or
make sure you find a stone restorer because you will need him yearly
to maintain the stone. Ciao Stone |
| R2:
Dear Nemi: Marbles are "soft" stones and scratch easily;
"granites" are much tougher and scratch-resistant. Marble
is sensitive to acidic spills; all granite and most mercantile granites
are not. If you're looking for easy maintenance, "granite"
(with a few exceptions and limitations) is "your man". Blue
Pearl is among the material that money can buy for the intents and
purposes of a kitchen countertop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
| Q 5141: I am considering
putting either marble or travertine tiles in my kitchen as flooring.
After reading the site I have come to the understanding that a polished
finish in neither would be suitable for that particular enviroment,
although I do like the idea of polished tiles. Could you enlighten
me as to whether this would indeed be unwise, and if so why this is,
as having read the site I am still unsure. Furthermore what type of
protection for the stones should I be considering when having them
installed. I am also considering putting polished marble in the bathroom,on
the floor and walls, would this be wise and am I right in beliveing
that a sealer is not necessary. Thank You, Shazad, June
3, Reply
|
| R1:
Hi Shazad there is a way to get what you want. But the first thing
to consider is to spend double the money initially and then probably
about 500 to 1000 yearly to maintain it. If you can say yes then go
for it. If not then pay for Granite or tile where the initial cost
is all you will ever have to pay. Having marble is beautiful and lighter
in color, having it shiny is very rich looking, but there is a cost
and a way of life to hold it together. If you can agree to the economical
side, then write back to me and I will give you detailed steps on
how to live with marble. Ciao Stone |
| R2:
Dear Shazad: This issue has been discussed countless times already.
In a nutshell, calcite-based stones are sensitive to acids and will
get damaged by just about any kind of spill that typically occur in
a kitchen. The damages will appear in the form of "water stains",
or "rings" or whatever shape the spill was. No sealer under
the sun can even begin to offer a protection from that. A bathroom
is a much more forgiving environment; therefore, with proper easy
care, polished marble or travertine can be quite enjoyable. Yes, you're
right, they don't need to be sealed with an impregnator/sealer. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5140:
We just had a "granite" installed for kitchen counter tops.
It has been sealed at least twice, possibly 4 times (although incorrectly
almost assuredly). The last time they came they sealed it twice within
a hour. Anyway, we're still getting oil stains. Your site www.findstone.com
indicates that the right sealer has to be used and that it must be
done 4-5 times with a day in between each application. Unfortunately,
it also apparently needs to be done by a "professional".
Well, my pro apparently is barely clueless about what they are doing.
Do/can you sell me anything I might be able to use to accomplish more
than I'm getting out of these folks? ("A Different Perspective"
out of Orlando if that means anything to you). We are being told that
the sealer will repell water, but not grease. Will an impregnator
work? It is called "New Venetian Gold". Is this even technically
granite? Orlando, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
If the sealer you have is water repellent, it will not repel oil.
You need to change to an oil impregnator. Let me know what you're
using and I will tell you what you can top coat it with and within
1/2 hour of application and the job will be done. Stone |
| R2:
Dear Orlando:I make a darn good impregnator/sealer. My directions
used to say to make the necessary number of applications with a day
interval in between applications. I was losing sales. Why? Because
the competition's directions were talking about one or two hours,
instead of a day, and the contractors liked that idea much better.
Were those products "better" impregnator/sealers? No: their
manufacturers were simply "better" salesmen! So, now, even
my product's directions are indicating 2 hours instead of a day. A
change in formulation? No: I woke up and changed the printing! This
is one issue. The second issue is the water and oil repellency. Certain
impegnator/sealer - due to poor formulation - are only water-repellent
(hydrophobic), while the better products are oil repellent (oleophobic),
as well. (I still have to understand, for the life of me, why would
anyone need an impregnator that's water-repellent only!) I let you
guess to which one category the impregnator used by your fabricator
belongs! In order to do a good sealing job, now, the impregnator/sealer
applied by your fabricator must me thoroughly removed, before applying
a better product. I think that you should demand your fabricator (who
made money out of you!) to solve the problem they created. If not,
you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5139: Hi, I'm a ceramic
tiler by trade(18 yrs experience)and over the last 4-5 years I am
being asked to use Limestone and other natural stones more and more
for kitchens ,bathrooms etc.I have fitted many contracts with natural
stone tiles and have never had any problems until now.I have tiled
a bathroom using Kirkstone Lunar beige honed Limestone and it appears
that the grout has penetrated the edges of the limestone and left
a ''residue'' after drying.This though is not my main problem.This
effect has only shown up after sealing as the sealer recommended by
Kirkstone has darkened the tiles considerably and left the edges lighter.It
was also specified that I seal after grouting .My normal method of
sealing would have been once before grouting and again after with
Lithofin stainstop.I have never had any problems with Lithofin as
it doesn't change the colour of the stone.My main concern now is how
to get this sealer out of the stone .The only detail I have on the
sealer at present is that it contains Urethane Prepolymers.I would
be eternally grateful for a solution other than re-tiling my clients
bathroom. Ade Bennett . Bristol June
3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ade:Kirkstone made money by selling the
tiles. According to your report, They recommend a certain sealer (which
is the one you used), and specific directions on its application (that
you have followed step by step). All things considered, I believe
it's high-time that Kirkstone comes out and solves ITS OWN problems.
Why do you want to make it yours?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| |
| Q 5137: I am going
to buy granite for my kitchen, does silicon impregnators when used
in the fabrication process not work? My granite person is trying to
sell me on the fact that these impregnators will last a life time
with no more sealing. Could you be nice enough to give me your opinion.
Scott, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
Hey Scott- Some impregnators do say it lasts
forever, I have had some clients where the stone sealer lasted for
years, others not. Take the not, for a real life situation and consider
having to reseal the stone with the same impregnator every year, to
be safe. would definitely seal it often. Ciao "Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Scott: It is my understanding that your fabricator makes
reference to a process called "resining", which consist
in the permanent application from the factory of an ester epoxy resin
(not a silicon sealer by a long shot!) in the slab. If that's the
case, than your fabricator is right: for all intents and purposes
it will last forever. Whether or not the slab still needs to be sealed
with a good-quality impregnator sealer is still to be seen, though.
Most of the times "resined" slabs do NOT need any further
sealing, but "most of the times" doesn't mean ALL the time,
does it? That's why I seldom comment about any one particular stone.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5134: I had granite
counters installed with an undermount stainless kitchen sink. I am
experiencing water leakage coming from the undermount perimeter. As
a result, I razored out the old sealant and replaced the sealant with
a high quality clear silicone sink caulking weeks ago. Another leaky
area has now presented itself around the perimeter. Is there a good
product to use or preferred method to perform this repair so that
I do not have water seeping through the caulked area? Thank you for
any help you can provide.-Evan, June 3, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Evan: In situations like that there's only one SURE solution:
take the sink completely out, clean thoroughly both the sink rim and
the granite off the old silicone and start all over. Is there any
reason why you would want to do that yourself? I mean, that's the
responsibility of the fabricator, if you ask me. Maurizo, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5133: I am seeking
advice about whether there is a big difference in the machinery
used in a tile line for granite, and one
for limestone. I was told that limestone requires similar equipment
to slate. My gut tells me the real difference is "tooling",
but I don't know for sure. Do you? Keith, President of a tooling company.
June 3, Reply |
| R1:
MY NAME IS V.K.DHUPAR AND I AM A GEOLOGIST ENGAGED IN NATURAL STONE
TRADE FOR OVER 35 YEARS IN MINING PROCESSING AND EXPORTS.
PLEASE BE SURE THAT THERE
IS NO DIFFERENCE IN LINE POLISHING MACHINE USED FR SLATE ,SANDSTONE
,MARBLE OR GRANITE. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT YOU ARE USING DIFFERNT
TYPES OF GRINDING TOOLS AND MOVEMENT OF CONVEYOR BELT WILL BE DIFFERENT
FOR DIFFERENT TYPE OF STONES REGARDS V.K.DHUPAR
|
| R2:
Granite tile line vs.
Limestone or marble tile line There deffinitely is a difference in
equipment needed for a granite tile line as well as tooling. Granite
needs a hevier machinery as well as different tooling, UNIMARIMP |
| R3:
Sure, there is a big difference between processing of slate and limestone
or granite. For granite processing the machine must be equipped with
pendulum heads. For slate or limestone processing the machines are
equipped with fixed plates only. From technical side there are more
relevant different things as connected power, type of abrasive tools
quantity of grinding sections, Werner |
| R4:
mr.dhupar is
correct. you can use the same machine for granite and lime stone but
the grinding and cutting tools must be different. Pagaria |
| Q 5132: What an amazing
resource! Your website has convinced me that I'm not making ANY final
kitchen countertop granite selections without checking with you first!
Thank you for this helpful forum. I WAS going to use a combination
of Golden Sun granite and honed Zimbabwe black granite on my kitchen
countertops, but after reading your site, OUT with that honed black
granite. Thanks for saving me from that nightmare! I'd like to know
about Golden Sun granite from Brazil. The
granite yard tells me that the slabs have been resined, do not need
to be sealed, and should be effectively stain-free under normal living
conditions in my kitchen ("assuming [I] don't let grease
sit for days on end around [my] cooktop" direct quote from the
granite yard guy). I haven't performed the lemon juice test, but plan
to this afternoon. Assuming it passes that test, please tell me generally
anything you know about this material. First, is it truly granite?
Assuming it's resined, will it need to be sealed? What other maintenance/durability
concerns should I have? Is there a way I can test to confirm it has
been "resined" (as opposed to "doctored")? Thanks
so much in advance for your time, wonderful insight and expertise!
Kristen, June Kristen , June 3, Reply
|
| R1:
You can look at the slab (before it is cut for your job) and tell
if the piece has been "resined." This is simply some type
of urethane sealer that penetrates the stone. This is a relatively
new process and we still do not know how it will stand up under the
test of time. Most of the granite slabs we use are not sealed; we
give the homeowner a sample sealer kit. I personally have a light
colored granite (Dunas classic) in my kitchen that is over 10 years
old, has never been sealed, has had all types of abuse (e.,g., wine
spills, juices, margarine, cooking oil, all left overnight at one
time or another) and has never stained. Other light granites (e.g.,
Juperanas) may absorb oils and darken, if not sealed beforehand. One
of the best sealers on the market is plain old Vaseline Petroleum
Jelly - just rub in and buff with a clean white cloth (much like polishing
a car). This is all I have ever used on my granite. Connie
|
| R2:
Dear Kristen: I've heard some whoppers in my day, but the vaseline
thing beats them all! (Sorry Connie, I don't buy that for a split
second. Never heard of it, either thank goodness!) Anyway, the "resining"
process is relatively new, indeed, but the material used - an ester
epoxy, not a urethane - has been used in the stone industry for a
couple of generations already and proved itself to be just about forever.
Most of the times a resined slab does not need to be sealed, but most
of the time does not mean all the time, does it?! My little lemon
juice test will tell you the final tale. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5131: We
are doing 2cm granite on an office concrete floor, how large
should the slab be cut? Do we need to grout the joints? Do
we need to use any kind of adhesive to bond them with the floor or
will its own weight be sufficient? Is Giallo Antico a good choice?
Are there any other questions that might be important to ask? Thank
you for your help Thanks, Nicholas, June 3, Reply
|
| R1:
When we have installed slab flooring, we try
to limit the sizes to 24"x24" - anything larger is unwieldy
for the installers to handle. You will also need to grout between
the pieces; granite can have a very small grout line compared to other
materials, but it is a mistake to "butt" the pieces together
- always leave a grout line. Connie |
| R2:
what is the size of the room you intend to pave
with granite. the size of the room decides the size of the granite
pieces. if you have a big room then fo for bigger pieces. or if the
size is small then go for smaller pieces. for type of granite you
have chosen (Giallo Antico ) any size of of the panels is ok. 2 cm
thickness is ok for the flooring. no grouting is needed. and no adheseive
needed for bonding to the floor since the flooring will be from wall
to wall there will be no chance for the pieces to move around, Arnik |
| Q 5130: My granite is
called Verde Ubatuba and was installed new 2 years ago. The factory
sealed it before installation. I decided to reseal the granite since
I was told by the installer to do it about every six months. I used
511 impregnator and applied it probably a little to generously. I
waited 5 minutes before I wiped it off (as per the directions) and
by then it had dried pretty good. I used a terrycloth to wipe off
the excess and my result was a thick filmy coat. My counters looked
terrible. I tried to buff it with a fine grit steel wool and got nowhere.
I then used acetone and got most of it off, however my counters still
look like there is a white cloudy film on it. I use my stone polish
but it still doesn't look like it did before. How can I get the natural
shine back? And do I reseal this particular granite because your website
said something about not sealing verde ubatuba since it's not a real
granite. I am a little confused about where to go from here. Please
help me, Maureen, June 2, Reply |
| R1:
Wow Maureen, what a tale! IM not sure which sealer you applied so
I have to be careful about what I say but normally simply reapplying
the same sealer, almost using it as a cleaner it will soften the excess
sealer and you will be able to remove it again simply by wiping it
down with a paper towel. You're stone will remain sealed and your
clarity will return. Don't feel awkward, 80% of the customers that
by off the shelf Impregnators, got surprised by how difficult it really
was in comparison to what it says on the bottle. But hey, I need to
work too, so I don't mind! " Stone" |
| R2:
Verde Ubatuba is originated from Brazil. It is one kind of granite
actually which belongs to blackish green rock. Under normal circumstance,
no necessary to seal the surface due to it has certain hardness for
anti-friction and dash after polishing. However, I guess your trouble
may rouse from seal materials. 511 impregnator is a kind of glue with
tiny acid ingredient, which is capable of reacting with something
inside of varied stone. That will bring sticking layer between stone
surface and glue and hard to get rid of it.You know, the ingredients
of stone are quite complicated, even sometimes same stone from same
quarry is with different factors, some stone are containing acid or
alkali element, it is quite normal. Therefore, maybe this one you
got is unlucky and got wrong sealer , either. The way to tackle this
trouble is to choose neutral sealer after re-polishing the surface
of granite. Regards Piness |
| R3:
HI Maureen, I had granite countertops for years and never cleaned
them with anything but Dove liquid dish detergent and water (cuts
the grease just fine), after which they were rinsed down. Then I used
a steam machine to clean them and they were then dried by hand with
old undershirts. They were never resealed and looked like the day
I got them, 15 years later. I am now doing another kitchen at a new
house and have found a guy in my area who is extremely knowledgeable
and writes and speaks on granite and stone in general. I am sure that
he will have some advice for you. He is a lovely person. I would be
absolutely sick over it if that happened to me, but I am sure there
is a solution to make them lustrous once again. Good luck., Joan |
| R4:
We never leave Impregnators to dry especialy
on a polished surface. Apply White Spirit or Thinner and wipe off
twice with Kitchen paper. Never mind if surface looks a little bit
wet. It will dry out in a couple of Hours. Andreas |
|
R5: Same
time people put resina on the granite slabs and polish the resina,in
this way is easer, probably the acetone eat the resina and leaveing
the granite's surface that was not polished. there is nothing to
do becouse to re-polish granite surface you need our polishing macine.
Tibur
|
| R6:
Dear Maureen: As you can tell by looking the table of granites by
Dr. Daniel, Ubatuba is a charnockite from the village of Ubatuba (hence
the name) in Brazil. It seldom needs any impregnating sealer, since
it's a naturally very dense stone. To solve your problem once and
for all, I would suggest you to use "Its Majesty" Methylene
Chloride (found in many paint strippers. Follow all directions and
precautionary warnings printed on the can), to remove all the stupid
sealer that had no business being there in the first place, other
than making money to its manufacturer and distributor! Ciao and good
luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R7:
We never leave Impregnators
to dry especialy on a polished surface. Apply White Spirit or Thinner
and wipe off twice with Kitchen paper. Never mind if surface looks
a little bit wet. It will dry out in a couple of Hours. Andreas -
Cyprus |
| Q 5129: We had a Vyara
Light countertop installed about a month ago. The fabricator applied
a sealer after installation, allowed it to sit for 10-15 minutes and
then applied acetone. Everything looked fine. Several days
later, we noticed an irregular moss green area about 3"
in diameter that definitely wasn't previously there. We have
photos of the original slabs and the finished countertops during install.
No green spot. We didn't spill anything on it. The granite supplier
thinks there may have been some reaction to the specific sealer used
and suggests we try a poultice made by the sealer mfg. Any suggestions
or similar experience would be appreciated JOHN June 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Ciao John, Personally I need to see the photos, it could be anything,
if the spot is darker, it could be a stain, if its lighter, that could
be a few things else. Is there a reaction to something which is touching
the stone from underneath? Don't poultice anything until you're sure.
Send me a photo and I'll tell you how to go about it. Ciao "Stone" |
| R2:
I don't understand the need for the acetone after
the sealer; do the directions for applying the sealer say to apply
acetone afterwards? The spot on the granite may be sealer that was
not completely dry, then had a reaction with the acetone - we do use
a commercial sealer but do NOT use acetone afterwards. Connie |
| R3:
Dear John: Acetone after applying an impregnator
and letting it sit 10 minutes or so?? What kind of ridiculous practice
is that?! They could as well not bother applying the sealer, because
the acetone most likely removed it all! After your report, I have
no idea about the nature of your stain, but if its darker than the
rest of the slab it is indeed a stain. How to remove it? The last
thing that you want to do is to buy a "professional" poulticing
kit (that no real professional ever uses!). Get your fabricator back
and demand that they explain to you in a convincing way the acetone
procedure thing, and let them deal with the stain. If you don't know
the real nature of the stain, it's hard to determine what to do to
remove it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5128: We
are installing 12" x !2" Baltic brown granite tiles in a
very large bathroom. For contrast and slip resistance the architect
advised to hone some of the Baltic brown for use on the shower floor.
Whave the honed tiles and while they feel like they will be more slip
resistant, my wife hates the very washed out color, almost milky filmy
appearance of the honed surface. Would a color enhancer/sealer bring
some of the color back, we don't want it to look like the polished
stone. Should we seal the honed granite first with a silicone based
penetrating sealer and then apply an enhancer or are the enhancers
also sealers? Please give me your recommendation and if possible which
products I should purchase. Alvin, June 1, Reply |
| R1:
Yes, you should seal the floor with an enhancer and there is one that
is better for this than all others. I dislike suggesting any products
openly, I find that every situation varies with different stones and
its applications. So write to me and I'll give you my recommendation
and help you locate it. Ciao "Stone" |
| R1:
Dear Alvin: You do NOT want to apply an impregnator
sealer before applying a color enhancer! Besides, a good-quality color
enhancer is an impregnator, too. Just make sure that your BB tiles
are not installed butt-joint in the shower stall (walls and floors).
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Hi,
Thanks for the answer, I really need to know the best product to enhance
and seal the honed Baltic brown. It is used primarily on the shower
floor and as highlights in some other dry area's. I contacted r sealer/enhancer
in refrence satin finish and was told that it is not recommended for
wet area's. Your recommendation as to the best product would be gratefully
appreciated. Alvin |
| Q 5127: What is terrazzo
and what is its applications, Sam, June 1, Reply |
| R1:
Simply said, it is installed and has the functionality of a concrete
floor. It is then grinding on site resulting in a "one piece
floor" which can be molded to whatever your needs are, in every
color having the same attributes as a marble floor. It is maintained
like a stone floor. It was widely used in schools, hospitals, etc.,
but also in apartments and homes. Today this type of craftsman is
really difficult to find and the cost usually runs about 100$/sqft.
Ciao "Stone" |
| R2:
Dear Sam: A terrazzo floor is a floor that's made by mixing marble
chips and cement (with optionally some dyes to color the cement),
or marble chips and an epoxy matrix. The mix is poured on the sub-floor
inside "boxes" of metal strips (brass or aluminum) to a
thickness of ¾" for the cement based terrazzo, and ¼"
for the epoxy-based one. After a couple of days of curing, the floor
is then ground and finished (it could be polished - like marble -
but it's usually delivered with a low hone-finished, as all marble
floors used to be delivered years ago) on the premises. It used to
be defined the "poor man's marble floor", but nowadays is
coming back big time and it can be anywhere between twice and three
times more expensive than a "ground-in-place" solid marble
floor. Ah, the magic of demand and supply! While epoxy-based terrazzo
is not suitable for high-traffic situations, cement-based terrazzo
is a tough cookie indeed! In all to many cases, the maintenance implemented
on terrazzo floors is despicable, to say the least. But that's another
story! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
