| ADVICE WANTED! | June 30, 2003 | |
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| Maurizio's Announcement:
I will continue to reply to questions posted here but none of my literature
/ articles / guidelines are available for free anymore. Everybody has been
making money out of me (and FindStone?): the distributors, the fabricators,
the contractors, the consumers, and the competition! Should you feel that
my expertise is worth something to you, all general information, as well
as one-on-one specific consultation, will be available on line. Click to
see list of literature available. For direct consultation, contact me at
info@findstone.com Ciao
and Good Luck, Oct 25. Maurizio, Expert Panelist. Click Here to read detailed
annoucement |
| Q 5283: I have yellow marble countertops in my kiichen (installed by the original owners). When I moved in, I noticed deep visiable fissures in the entire counter top and they are very rough. I also noticed previous areas where the marble as been glued back together. The countertop has a 11" overhang from the end cabinetry which is used as a bar area. The counter is made of two pieces of marble 35" x 46" and 35" x 60". My problem is that the entire counter has cracked lengthwise along visiable fissures and veins just before the cabinetry ends. How could this happen? Was marble the right choice for a counter with an overhang for sit at bar? Could it be from normal wear and tear on bad marble? My apartment does not have central heat or A/C and I do live on the harbour of Sydney. Could the weather have played a role as well? Now what are my options? Thanks. Spencer, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Spencer: The weather has nothing to do with it, but the latest political unrest in the Philippines … it just might! :-) In a nutshell: poor choice of the stone and – very definitely – poor installation.About your options: GET RID OF IT!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5282: I have brand new granite work tops in my kitchen at a cost of £3,500. Unfortunately a hot pan was placed on it and it has left a scorch mark. Is there any way i can remove it? Samantha, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Samantha: One of the many good qualities of the vast majority of mercantile granites is the fact that you can put a hot pot onto them without any problem! So, now the question is: "What the heck of a 'granite' did they sell to you that gets scorched by a hot pot?" I don't have the answer to that question, alas; and even if I did it wouldn't do you any good! You may want to try consulting with a bona fide stone restoration contractor, but your best course of action is to have your fabricator solve the problem; after all they made good money out of the deal and they should have known that the particular stone they sold to you - whatever that is - doesn't take the heat! The way I see it, the situation that you have is NOT acceptable by any standard. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| R2: rub it with kerosine and dry |
| Q 5280: I'm renovating my master bathroom. I'm planning to use blue pearl granite for the countertop...Having a difficult time finding the right material and colors to use for the floor tile, wall tile, backsplash and shower tile, and cabinetry. The bathroom will include a clawfoot tub which is white with a charcoal finish on the outside. I want to stay in the gray family of colors, but don't want the bathroom to be too dark. Also I want the tile to have that natural stone look, without the maintenance, and I don't want to use white tile. Does anyone have any ideas, June 23, Reply |
| R1: If you don't want to consider using blue pearl all over the place, there are porcelain tiles that look very much like polished marble. Go check them out! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5277: We just put granite countertop, (I don't know the name, we were told it's a new kind), it is light brown. We have some problems. First of all, when plumber installed the faucet, he used plumber's patty, and it stained the granite. We called him, he removed the patty, reinstalled the faucet, but the oily stain is still there. Granite has not been sealed yet. Is there any way to remove the oily stain? We were advised to use alcohol, but we are not sure. Second, what is the best sealer? Third, how should we take care of the granite, after it will be sealed? Your help will be highly appreciated. thanks, Ella, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ella: You could try to poultice the plumber's putty (again?!) with Methylene Chloride, but chances are that it will not come out. After that, answering to your question about the "bestest" sealer, there's no such animal! Some are better for certain stones, some are better for some others. For a better understanding of what I mean, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5276: I am looking for a step by step book or website ect, on how to cut and install granite. I have 4 9 by 6 foot slabs of granite that I would like to try to install as countertops in my kitchen. We are big do it yourself people and know we could call a pro in but the price on the granite was so good if we mess up a slab it’s O.K. I need to know everything from the first cut to the polish. Can you help? Thank You Chris, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Chris: Oh, yeah, I can help you all right! For starters you will need to buy AT THE VERY LEAST $10,000 worth of equipment and material. Once you've got that, gimme a holler and I'll tell you - step by step - what to do with it. As a first step, however - before you go out and buy all that stuff - I'd like to encourage you to get real! :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelis |
| Q 5275: I used a thinset specifically for granite tile. and it seems the thinset has changed the color of the granite and the color is blotchy after 30 hours of setting. Should I wait another 24 hours or is the discoloration not normal and should get the countertop replaced. June 23, Reply |
| R1: If you’re lucky the discoloration will go away. Give it another week or so. About the thinset being classified specifically for granite makes me laugh my brains out! I mean, which one “granite” are the manufacturers of the thinset talking about?! :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5274: We just had Paradiso Classico installed for our kitchen countertops. Immediately after the installation, there were large darkened spots, above the locations where the adhesive was applied. We were told this would dry out in a few days. It did, but only slightly. Finally, after about three weeks, they are gone from most of the surfaces. We were told not to seal the granite until the marks were gone. However, we were only told not to use the counters for 72 hours. So we've been using them unsealed. As a consequence (I now realize from all the info here!) there are new spots from oil, tomato sauce etc, that will not come out. These are mostly fairly small, but a couple are unpleasantly large. We don't know specifically which spots are from what things. Which poultice of the different ones referenced here would be the best one to try on unknown stains? As a follow on, when we do get it cleaned up and ready to be sealed, it sounds as if it should have 4 or 5 coats of sealer, as it seems quite porous. Even water doesn't bead up, but stains until it dries. We had Misty Mauve installed in our bathrooms and it is much more satisfactory. Even before sealing, liquids beaded up and didn't spot. Comparatively, the Paradiso which was much more expensive, has been a real disappointment. Very much appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks, Mary, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mary: Well, for starters, the fact that your Paradiso was more expensive then your Misty Mauve has nothing to see with the mechanical quality of the stone: it's strictly demand and supply at work! Now, let's talk about your stains. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5273: We just purchased a house which has travertine tiles in the front and back entryway. I didn't know much about the material and the builder told me it was a type of "unpolished marble" (the house was build on spec and is not yet completed, allowing us to make some choices about finish and materials). Anyway I gather from reading thru your website that it is normal for travertine to have holes and for them to be filled with grout, but I'm wondering how big the holes normally are? The holes in these tiles appear to be up to an inch in diameter and the grout in them is not flush with the stone surface, so that some of the holes have quite sharp edges. Also, the same tiles were used around a gas fireplace and in some places the edges of the tiles are visible, and the holes are so numerous that I wonder if these tiles will crack easily. Anyway, we have already decided the holey tile edges around the fireplace look terrible and will have the fireplace redone with a different material, but we are trying to decide what to do about the travertine entryways. In addition to the size and number of the holes, the fact that the grout filling is not flush with the surface makes my husband think that the grout will discolor and be very difficult to clean. Thanks, Angela, June 23, Reply |
| R1: ear Angela: Wow, some holes! Without seeing it I can say anything specific, of course, but if I have to venture a guess I'd say that you're dealing with a low-grade Durango Travertine from Mexico. Anyway, I personally would not accept that floors the way you describe them. Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5271: I have had a very large floor installed and the name of it is Verde Esmeralda. After reading you website, I am now a much more informed buyer (too late). I can not find this "granite" listed on your site. Is this a true granite. I am trying to find if it needs to be sealed (I was told not by my installer) and what I could use to maintain the high shine. Thanks for your help. Carmen, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Carmen: Verde Esmeralda is not a true geological granite, but it's quite a good stone nonetheless. Whether or not it needs to be sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer is something that you will have to find out yourself by running my little lemon juice test (see sidebar menu). For the rest, I already answered your other posting. Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5270: I have a customer that we have done about $15,000 in custom work to their kitchen. installed a marble floor in that kitchen. About 6 months later were back to remodel their bathroom and i noticed in the kitchen near the up and down stairs that the marble has a inward dimple in the marble.So i looked closer and its everywhere.The kitchens the length of the house and about 14 ft. wide,these dimples appear to be running with the seems of the underlayment and horizontally as well.Also they only used 1/4 inch durock on top of the 3/4 inch subfloor,total 1 inch.I've done plenty of ceramic tile in my life and i know 11/4 is bare minimum 11/2 is suggested.It appears the marble is cracking from bottom up.What is your thinking to this problem, trying to avoid liability to this.They spent $5,000.00 on this floor and seems to be a garbage install.I confronted the installer "did you reinforce the seems with mesh tape", i got no response. Also "why did you only use 1/4" insted of 1/2" underlayment"again,no response Thanks Scott, June 23, Reply |
| R1: Dear Scott: And what is it exactly that you'd expect me to say? It's clearly an installation failure, and, clearly again, something was not done right. Of course, the only remedy is to rip out the whole floor and start anew (and right, this time!), and that is something you will have to deal with. The tile setter didn't answer your questions … How could I possibly answer them for you? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5268: I have just had a very large dining room (14 x 24) and hall (over 40 feet long) done in Esmeralda Verdi granite. It looks beautiful except for one thing. I see a haze on the tile when I look at it. My installer says that it is the stone that I am seeing. When the floor is wet it is beautiful. Once it dries, it gets that haze or cloudy look to it. Does it need to be buffed or does it need a special cleaner. I bought a cleaner for granite countertops and used it on a small corner but it did not change the haze. Is this a normal feature of this floor? Is it because it is a very dark floor that I am seeing this? I would appreciate any help or opinions Thank you Carmen, June 23, Reply |
|
R1: Carmen,
can you get a virgin tile. A leftover that was not manipulated. If there
is no haze get back to me and I will tell you what to do. If they are
the same you possibly need a polishing. Ciao "Stone |
| R2: Dear Carmen: No mysterious haze or anything. It's the nature of that particular "beast". Some spot of the stone do not take a polish as high as others. However, there are some easy to apply and to maintain topical coatings that would produce a visual improvement for you. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5264: I have a sandstone fireplace that has smoke buildup on it. I would like to clean it but don't know what to use to clean it. Pls advise your comments, Thanks. June 23, Reply |
| R1: You need four ingredients: Household bleach (diluted 1:1 with warm water); Rubber gloves; a laundry-type brush; elbow grease!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5263: Do I have to seal a Jupprano Columbo granite floor tile. We installed it but I don't have any idea if I have to buy a sealer for this type of granite or not. Please advise and recommend a sealer product. Thanks. June 23, Reply |
| R1: Yes, typically Juparanas stones need to be sealed pretty bad! About the "best sealer" to buy, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5259: Can you tell me if it is possible to remove wax marking off of unfinished flagstone? It looks like a oil stain. HELP, Mark, June 23, Reply |
| R1: There is a possible recipe, but I need the exact details of what is on the stone. Ciao Stone |
| R2: Dear Mark: Try to poultice it with a chemical that removes oily stains. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert PAnelist |
| Q 5258: I
just moved into a home with marble surrounding the fireplace (the mantle
is wood). Unfortunately, the color does not mix well with my belongings.
I would like to cover up the marble but don't know how to start. Some people
said I should paint it (but I need to be sure it doesn't get hot). Others
suggested tiling over it (I like this idea because I want to cover it with
small tiles). Is one of these methods a good idea or is there another method
would be better? What should I consider by following your recommendation
(i.e., if I tile it, what kind of tile or grout, etc. should I choose)?
thanks! Cheryl, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Cheryl, don't paint it. It won't last. Tiling over it is good. Make sure you scratch up your marble first, and then you will be able to glue directly over the marble. Stone |
| Q 5257: I had a kitchen counter installed that the dealer called Juperano El Dorado. Might this be the same as Juperano Gold? Do you know about Juperano El Dorado, if it is different? Thanks for your help. Claudia, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Claudia. It sounds the same to me. But it's not fair to say. it is known that the industry changes the actual name to mix up the competition. If you can forward a picture of your stone I will tell you which it is. The name is the same though, Dorado does mean gold. Stone Hi Claudia. It sounds the same to me. But it's not fair to say. it is known that the industry changes the actual name to mix up the competition. If you can forward a picture of your stone I will tell you which it is. The name is the same though, Dorado does mean gold. Stone |
| R2: Dear Claudia: Not a clue! There are so many "Juaparanas" (whatever that means) on the market (and counting!) that I totally lost track of them! I'm not losing any sleep over it, though! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5255: We have a new house with many of the walls built out of Bluestone, and we seem to get water seaping through it in a variety of places. Is there any type of sealant product you can apply (I would guess to the outside) to stop this from happening? Is it something that goes away? Or is there some other problem besides the stone and we are not seeing the correct issue. Thanks for any help you can give, Dougin, June 20, Reply |
| R1: One, check the joints and makesure there are no voids. You can seal the stone with a water repellent, but the water could come from another area and trail to the are getting wet making it seem like its coming from the stone. Thats a hard problem to solve and you will have to seal and check joints and silicone some areas until you find the spot. Stone |
| Q 5253: We just moved into a house that has a granite floor in the bathroom and granite countertop in the kitchen. Around the base of the toilet bowl, there is a rust colored stain on the granite. What can be used to clean and remove the stain? In the kitchen, there is a section of granite that has lost its shine. Can the shine be restored? thanks Chris, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Chris, try Iron Out on the rust stain but as afar as the shine, you will need a professional. Stone |
| R2: Dear June: About the rust stain around the toilet, you must remove the toilet, replace the stained tiles (if you can get some replacement) and have a better sealer applied (where the toilet bowl connects with the pipe to the sewer). About the countertop, you're going to have to hire a bona fide stone refinisher. Maurizio, |
| Q 5252: I have a marble tile vanity in my bathroom. Without reading the label closely, I sprayed it with a tile cleaner which has removed the shine off of the marble and made it a lot less smooth. Is there anything I can do to get the sheen back.- Carolyn, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Yes, call a stone restorer pay the 250 dollars or so and never use a product without reading the label. Bad Bad girl. Not to have read the label you must be Italian like me. Remember this, any marble any any polished marble, to maintain it, think of it as baby skin. Ivory, dove , etc., is all you can use, or of course specific stone cleaners. Ciao Stone |
| R2: Dear Carolyn: Yes, you have to hire the services of a qualified stone restoration contractor. Now, you'd better watch out! Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! I did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide stone restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence you need to make a competent choice. It does carry a small price tag, but for the sake of your stone, you don't want to take chances without it! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! What's more, I will even show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5250: I am renovating our home and would like to cover the entire ground floor with saturnia light premium limestone. Do you have any reservations about this choice? I have two children - 9 and 12. I would love to hear what you recommend with respect to sealing it and washing it. What is a reasonable price and are there vastly different qualities out there? Thank you so much, Anne. June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ann: I will not comment about the price. Saturnia stone )a fancy name to say cross-cut travertine) is quite dense and I would recommend sealing the kitchen and dinette area only with a good-quality stone impregnator (make sure that every residue is removed off the stone surface!). After that, with proper care, Sa turnia is quite an enjoyable stone. Go for it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5249: We
just had a 3,000 pound granite boulder delivered to our home that was placed
in our yard as part of our landscape design .... When we spray water on
the boulder, it turns dark black in color. When the boulder is dry, it is
lighter in color. We are wondering if we can apply the "color enhancer" product that is sold on your website to this boulder to bring out the dark, wet look (that is apparent when the granite boulder is sprayed with water). We live in the state of Minnesota where the winters get quite cold - can the "color enhancer" product be used in an outdoor application? If so, does rain quickly wash away the solution or does the application of the enhancer remain on the stone for quite some time? If you think that this enhancer can be used for an outdoor application, how often must the "color enhancer" be reapplied? If you know of a different product that would help us achieve this darker color on the granite boulder (living in a cold climate) we would appreciate your feedback ....Thanks for your assistance, Jim, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jim: Yes, it should work. The rain will eventually wash it away, somehow, but it should last a few months (depending on how much rain you’re gonna have!). You will know when it’s time to apply some more. Usually the following applications will last longer. Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5248: We recently had granite countertops installed (7 days ago) and now I noticed we have an 8"x3" dark stain on top near our sink. We have Giallo Veneziano and it is beautiful. Our kitchen is not completed, so we aren't using it, but what could have caused that stain? They said they sealed it. The workers bring sodas and their lunches daily. Could food or perhaps a chemical they were using caused that? Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Jenny, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jenny: Your guess is just as good as mine! If the stain is darker it is definitely a true stain. If they sealed your stone, either they didn't seal it enough, or they didn't use the right sealer. Call them back and demand them to solve the problem. They made good money out of you, didn't they? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5247: I have a lot of agglomerate marble floor that got damaged. From light scratches to deep gouges. Is it possible to repair? Thanks John, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear John: It probably will. Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will assess your situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5246: I'm getting ready to build a house and was really interested in the Uba Tuba granite for kitchen countertops. I am looking for fairly low maintenance. Where is is so dark, is it really hard to keep clean on a daily basis (re: fingerprints, dust, etc....). Any suggestions? Linda, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear Linda: What is this thing with dark stone showing fingermarks and stuff? Of course they do! But so what? I mean, do you want your countertop clean, or make-believe, just because you don't see soil so much? :-) As far as the choice of Ubatuba is concerned, it's quite good, but I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5244: I bought unfilled 10 cm x 10 cm travertine tiles for our little kitchen. What kind of "coctail" filler would you recommend for filling them, and how sould it be done? I have a bag of travertine dust that I collected after cutting border pieces, can I use this? June 20, Reply |
| R1: No, you can't use the travertine dust to fill the holes (unless you mix it with epoxy glue, which is a procedure I do NOT recommend for DIYers). Just use unsanded grout mixed with latex additive. Fill the holes leaving the filler in excess, and then, the following day, you "shave" the whole thing using a professional-grade razor blade scraper. Finish to clean any film residue with "0" steel wool. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5243: We want to install Travertine in all areas except bedrooms. Our installer said that Travertine is not used much up here because it is too porous and cannot take the amount of dust walked into it. He said it would require a lot of work and sealing it about every 2 years. Our children are gone but we have 3 medium dogs that live with us and a lot of dirt does get in at times. Is Travertine high-maintenance..? Is what he is saying true. Mimi, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Dear Mimi: Where exactly is "up here"? Travertine is not very porous. In fact, is among the densest tones available and does not need to be sealed. Not now, not ever. Considering your situation (3 dogs and lots of dirt), I would encourage you to consider hone-finished travertine. That would be, with the proper and easy maintenance - a quite enjoyable stone. You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5242: I have travertine floors that are sealed. I have light scratches from the dogs. I am not sure if it is the stone or the sealer that is scratched. What can I do to remove the scratches? Thank you, June 20, Reply |
| R1: If you have a wax or top coating, you may be able to simply reseal it. If its the actual stone, you will need a professional to recut and polish. And yes doggy nails will scratch the actual stones surface. Stone |
| R2: Travertine doesn't need to be sealed. If it was sealed anyway, no sealer should have been left on top of the stone and, consequently, the scratches should be in the stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Dear Pat: Another complaint about slate? It’s impossible … it must be a mirage or somethin’! … Don’t give up your hopes, though: I’m sure that some slate person will be able to take a few minutes break off their frantic selling-it activity and help you out. It never happened before, but, hey, you never know … there’s always a first time for everything!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5240:
I have a specific question which I hope you could answer, as I am having
trouble getting a reliable contractor to do this work (the granite installation
contractor wont even return my calls!) I recently moved into a house which
had new granite countertops. When we moved in, we installed a new dishwasher,
but the dishwasher is supposed to be attached to the countertop bottom with
two screws. The dishwasher installer could not penetrate the granite with
Tapcon fastners, and was not equipped to drill into the granite to fix the
unit to the bottom of the counter. Questions: 1. How do I drill the screw holes into the bottom of the granite? Do I use an impact driver? A diamond bit? 2. Do I need some type of insert to sink into the granite to apply the screws to? 3. I am afraid of using an impact driver as I thought I might crack the granite countertops. The counters are about 1-1/8" thick and the screws would be driven in about 3/4" in from the bottom edge. Thanks for your advice! Pete D, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Why must you drill it in? But anyway without the proper tools forget it. I suggest you glue a piece of wood to the underside and screw in the wood, Forget drilling the granite, too hard to do without fracturing. Ciao Stone |
| Q 5239: I am in a situation I have a home that is 3 weeks old and last week I found a crack in my granite. The crack is in the front of my cooktop and it is all the way through the stone. I have a feeling that it may have cracked when they cut the hole but I don't know, the installer believes it is not his fault and that he will patch it. I am afraid that down the road this repair will not hold up because of where it is and the severity of the crack. what do you think should I let them patch it or should I push for full replacement of the piece (it is between two other pieces)? RDS, June 20, Reply |
| R1: You have to decide, that crack happens often and it's normal that is is weaker, where the hole has been cut. Personally I wouldn't accept the counter, but I charge a fortune to install and would replace it without fail. Another note, if he can patch it up without it showing, and the installation is solid, no it won't get worst. So again you must decide depending on situation. Stone |
| R2: Dear RDS: If that weak spot was "rodded", then chances are that if the repair is done properly it will hold. If they didn't "rod" the granite at the shop before executing the cut-out, then it will not hold. And just out of curiosity, if it's not their fault, whose fault is it? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5238: The marble in my leaving room which was installed a year ago, has started to cheap away where the vain runs, do have any idea what could cause this? Thanks, Sammy, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Sammy. Some veins are composed of very weak minerals. Not much you can except for filling with epoxy once and while. Stone |
| Q 5237: I didn't like the look of granite so the "experts" at the stone store convinced me that Halila, (which they called a Jerusalem stone) would be beautiful and durable in my kitchen. I worried about it w/small children. They assured me it would not be an issue. We just finished building a new house, and have lived here one month. After reading your articles I see that my problem of the "water marks" is from acid stains. I have been diligent in my care for the stone, and still have marks everywhere already. We spent a fortune on this stone and had special edges fabricated. I don't have the financial option to tear out my kitchen and start over. Please give any options. If I use the muratic acid (as suggested in one of your answers) to dull the finish, will the counter become more porous and stain? Should I then seal after using the acid? Could I just rub lemon juice over the counter to get the same affect? HELP! Thanks in advance., Sandra, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Sandra, that is so unfair. Yes, it is a problematic stone. You can either take a course on how to maintain it yourself or have an expert come in yearly to bring it back. Refer to my answer to Q 5169 Stone |
| R2: Dear Sandra: I feel truly sorry for you. Try to wash it several times with a product called "Lyme-away" (spelling?), available at any supermarket. Its acidity is not as strong as Muriatic acid and it's easier to handle. That should do it. About the sealing, yes, I guess you will have to re-apply a good-quality stone impregnator/ sealer, since the acid will damage the current sealer. After that you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5236: We just had 500 sq
feet of travertine Turkish limestone laid over a plywood subfloor- we have
a crawl space- so therefore no cement slab- Only the kitchen, front entrance,
laundry room and breakfast room areas- all connected -- have OSB over the
plywood- the floor installer FORGOT to put the "rock board, or cement
board" over all including the 2 bathroom floors. It was sealed before
and after grout, but we were told today the floor will have problems- we
want a professional opinion- He used Versaset to cement 16" sq honed
tiles down. When he sealed it he SPRAYED The impregnator on, never wiping
residue off even 2-4 hours later when it still had wet appearance. The work was completed 4 weeks ago- today is 5/30/03 and he gave us a year warranty. Do we need to expect and rotting (due to moisture) , also tiles are not level- grout is already hipping out- HELP! Nora, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hard to tell Nora without being there. The tiles not being leveled, a dime of difference is usually the norm. The sealer, well the result should be, very little absorption if you drop water and there should be no visible film on the surface. If you have something else, it' s a problem. As for the problems, well I have a tenant that when he showers, he never pulls the shower curtain, cement slab or not, what ever I put down is a problem. The problem can be very specific to your usage. I have seen many jobs installed improperly and last for years. I think you will have to judge more upon how you had agreed to have it done. Stone |
| R2: Dear Nora: I hope you have a good lawyer. He's the only one who can help you out, if your "Michelangelo" does not amicably agree to: 1) Rip out the whole floor. 2) Sublet the new installation work to someone else who - unlike him - knows what is doing. And, BTW, do NOT allow anybody to apply an impregnator on your Turkish travertine. Neither before the installation, nor after, nor ever. You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Advice |
| Q 5235: I recently put in granite counter tops- silver galaxy. Ihad to use my old faucet until my new ine came in. The plumber used the metal plate under the facet and when he removed it, the plumbers putty he out in the bottom of the plate left a stain. what can i do to get this stain off. I would greatly appreciate your help. I am so disappointed when i look at the area now. Thanks Risa, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Remove all the putty and follow the poultice directives. Stone |
| R2: Dear Risa: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 5234: We recently moved in a new home in September 2003 and the Master Bathroom floor and shower are travertine. I love the look but am very unhappy with whatever they use to "seal" it. I know they put 3 applications of sealer on before we moved in and it didn't look even. And, it didn't last, it came off. All I used to clean the floor was either plain water mopping or sometimes a little dishsoap in the water. So, they applied another sealer while we were out of town this month and I'm still not happy with it's appearance. Can you recommend a proper product? I'm not sure what they are using but I don't think it's the best choice. Tracy, June 20, Reply |
| R1: I would need specific product names to help you. Stone |
| R2: Dear Tracy: OK, let's start from the beginning. Travertine is a quite dense stone and doesn't need any sealer. Only if it has a hone-finish, and, even then, just maybe. Second, a sealer for stone is not supposed to be onto the stone, but inside it. In fact, a very important phase of the application procedure of a stone sealer (a.k.a. impregnator) is to make sure that every last residue of it is removed from the stone surface. Now, in your case, the applied three coats of sealer (not one single iota of which had any chance to go inside the stone), apparently they never removed the excess, consequently your travertine looks like … you know what, and, to top it all, now they applied another sealer! WOW!… I'm amazed and speechless at the same time!! So much so that I really don't know what to tell you other than having those "geniuses" come back and rectify your situation, not before they've learned at least the basics about stone maintenance and preservation. You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 5233: I work in a home that has a shower stall completely made of Texas Limestone (ceiling included). It was built 6 years ago, but the stone was never sealed. We have noticed that the bottom half of the shower is now a much darker color than the top half, prob. due to water absorption. We are considering sealing the stone and I am wondering how long the area should be left to dry out & what type of sealer would be the best to use for this project? Also, what is the best thing to use to clean Texas Limesone in a shower?? Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Zoe, June 20, Reply |
| R1: Hi Zoe, You must first make sure that the stone has not discolored rather than wet from moisture. I will deal this problem as if it was wet as you claimed. Place a fan in the shower and allowe the stone to dry, this could take quite some time. Clean with a good non acidic stone cleaner, and seal with a pourous stone sealer. Look for them at your local stone supplier or I can provide you with exact products needed. Stone |
| R2: Dear Zoe: The darkness of the lower part of your limestone shower stall walls it is certainly due to water absorption, but the big $64 question is: where is the water being absorbed from? From the top of the stone? Maybe. From behind it? More likely. Check thoroughly all your grout and caulk lines to see if any of the stuff is missing (hopefully those tiles were not set butt-joint!...) If you reach the determination that water is, in fact, being absorbed from behind the tiles, then you have a problem that's larger than what meets the eye. Hoping that you're still in time, stop using that shower right away and let it be, with the door open, for as long as it will take to dry completely (it may take up to a few months!). After that, you will proceed to have the grout and/or caulk properly applied, so that you can start using your shower again. About sealing it and properly maintaining it, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5232: I am having my bathroom
done in honed and filled marble - color is called Durango. The floor, and
walls tub surround and counter top will be done. I would presume that I
have to seal this. Is that correct? I purchased a product for a penetrating sealer. I applied the product to a small sample of the marble I will be using and I see streaking. Maybe I am applying it incorrectly. Now I am afraid to use the product. does not have a customer support dept which I did not realize, or else I would have not ordered from them. Now I seem to have a problem and do not know what to do. Can you recommend another product that will be effective and not give me streak marks? Since the bathroom is a place I will be using makeup and hairspray, I do not want the marble to stain if possible. Any help would be appreciated. Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Barbara, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Barabara: Your Durango stone is a travertine, and, as such, quite dense. I wouldn't bother sealing it with any impregnator. All you have to do is implement a good maintenance routine. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5231: I am carving sandstone blocks 16" x 16" x 6" on a CNC router. Roughing with a blade and finishing with a carbide conical ball mill works great, however I have not been able to locate an intermediate tool that doesn't wear out quickly. Because of the contours of the carving there are a lot of plunge cuts which wear out the end of the tool. I have tried diamond finger bits, electroplated marble tools, and diamond bowl tools. Allen, June 17, Reply |
| R1: I deal directly with a manufacture who is excellent at this sort of problem. Forward me all the details of the diamonds you have tried, the stone you have been working on with the name of the tool and speed with the amount you have been paying, I can then see if he can or has something to fit your need. If he does I can perhaps get him to contact you. Stone |
| Q 5230: I have an Alabaster Eagle statue and one of the feet has broken off during my recent move. How would you suggest I repair this? Thank you so much for your time and attention to this, April, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Its not hard but you need a little skill. The best and most solid way is to drill a hole at both ends of the broken piece. The holes must match perfectly when you put the piece back. Slip in a non oxidizing type metal rod with matching colored epoxy. Allowing the excess to seep out of the crack. Sand down the excess and polish and voila, done right it will not show or look like another vein. Sounds hard? Its not but you need a little experience. You can ultimately simply glue the piece with epoxy only, it will be easier but not as sturdy. Stone |
| R2: Dear April: If you don’t want to go through a stone restoration contractor, you could try with some “Crazy glue”. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5228: A few months ago I
redid my whole kitchen. I have alarge amount of counterspace and rather
than purchase granite countertops I resorted to putting plywood across the
countertops, then placing Durock on top of that and on the wall behind them
and covering everything in granite tiles. It works beautifully and it saved
me about $15K. The vertical edges had tile sections glued in place with
Liquid Nails and I used a medium belt on a beltsander to bullnose all the
corners. The whole ensemble looks suberb. I had a nasty surprise though when I dropped in the sink. I sealed the edges of the sink with plumbers putty (it is a top mount sink) and I noticed that for about an inch all the way around the sink the granite become much darker than the rest of the counter top. It is not an enormous disaster but I thought that as time passed the discoloration would go away. It is not! That one inch ring around the sink is still darker than the rest of the countertops. I have already applied sealer to all the countertops (I did this about three days after I sealed the sink with plumbers putty). That was 5 months ago. Is there anything I can do to get rid of this dark ring around the sink? Would a poultice help? (remember, the granite has already been sealed). Dan, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Hey Dan, sounds like you did a great job. Yes, plumbers putty does affect and discolor the stone. You have to remove all the of Plumber's Putty to begin with and then poultice the spot. I am supposing that where the plumbers putty was applied (edges of sink) it has not been sealed, sink the sink is sitting there. The poultice will go in the same way the putty did. It can also go in through the sealer possibly! Try a test. I also was quite successful using a torch, the discoloration is an oil and the oil can be heated and evaporated. Just be careful to crack the granite or burn the house down. You have to heat it with a large flame not an intensive one. Stone |
| R2: The only way I know of is to take the tile out. You should never use plumbers putty. use a silicone to set the sink. Take out the tile and replace it. Mark |
| R3: Dear Dan: Nope, that plumber’s putty stain is there for the duration.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5227: What are the best products to use on stone countertops in the kitchen for purpose of disinfecting? Can bleach be used? Thank you. Eric, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Eric: You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else, I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5226: Hi, I just this granita that my wife liked because of the colors. It is called Giallo Valenciano, and I have two questions: 1- Is it a good choice for a kitchen couter top? 2- I have heard alot about not real granite, is this one of them, and what exactly means not real granite? Thanks for the good job in keeping everyone informed. Hector, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Hector: If you take a look at Dr. Daniel's table of granites you will find out what stone your Giallo Veneziano is. It is, however, a pretty decent choice for a kitchen countertop. "Not real granite" means that it's a stone that is illegally (at least here in the US) traded as granite but it belongs to a different geological classification. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5224: I am considering putting honed absolute black counters with a color enhancer in my kitchen. I see numerous postings discussing the issues with honed absolute black and in many the proposed solution is to color enhance them. If I plan to color enhance them anyway, are they then a practical choice or is staining still a big problem? Do you have any other stone recommendations if I want a matte black countertop? Thank you for any advice you have. Jennifer, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Jennifer: Not really; but you're on the right track. A good quality stone color enhancer will help you a lot by minimizing the visual effects of surface soiling, which is the big minus with hone-finished black granite countertop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5223: We just put in countertops of Dakota Mahogany also granite floors a lighter Mahogany ( I'm not sure of the name ) with borders of Dakota and Black. It looks fabulous. We have light maple cabinets and all stainless steel appliances and we are wondering what to do for a backsplash, any suggestions? Judieg, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Judieg: I assume that you already discarded the idea of having the same granite as a backsplash. There are quite a few options, including tumbled marble. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5222: At our home in Massachusetts,
a mason installed a granite top to a brick wall that contains an outside
grill, the granite top serving as a counter. The granite is the ordinary
New England type -- what is used for highway curbing or cobblestones. Rain darkens the granite considerably to a color much more compatible with the brick. I am wondering if I should use a color enhancer to get this color regardless of the weather. However, I would not want to end up with a shiny, polished look to the granite as that would be too formal for the outdoors. Would a color enhancer give me the look I am seeking -- a darker color but without a glossy surface look? Thank you in advance for any advice/suggestions you can provide. Judy, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Judy: A stone color enhacer is a penetrating-type product. What this means is that it will go inside the stone without effecting in any way it's surface finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5217: We just had porcelain floor tile installed. Our dog wet on it, and after it was cleaned up the tile is dull where the urine contacted it. What can we do to fix it? Vern, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Dear Vern: I have no idea. I deal with stone, not porcelain; though I must admit that your report is mighty unusual. I’d suggest you to go back to the people who sold the stuff to you. Maurizio, Expert Panleist |
| Q 5215: I am installing toffee (mid-range color) colored maple cabinets from Kraftmaid. My floors are saltillo tile. What granite slab choices would complement the cabinets and floor? June 17, Reply |
| R1: Sorry, but I make a lousy interior decorator! (I'm even 25% colorblind!) I consider myself a mechanic and I stick to that. I seldom comment about any one particular stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5214: Hello,
I am looking for some advice on some glue. I have read the comments in the
forum but have not noticed this particular application. The question I have
is twofold. First, I am trying to find out what is the best "glue"
to use on a Marble Mantel (fireplace surround) There are several pieces
that need to be glued together to make it one piece. The glue needs to be
able to withstand the heat, most importantly. I have been referred to Gesso
Mix before (not acrylic) and am not sure if this is the best way. There
is also a need to glue the mantel to the wall, can I use the same glue?. Additionally, if I am installing the Mantel in someones home and the glue I use is "toxic" and the smell permeates everything within a 100' radius, this may be a problem. Also, some glues like to "breath" for a long time, that is, give off vapors and so after the mantel has been installed, the homeowner smells it for weeks afterward. But at the same time, if the best glue is like this, at one time or a nother, I will be able to use such a glue. At any rate, that was the first situation. The second is this: I am also looking for a glue that can be used outdoors for such things as a Rotunda or Statue. Would this be a different glue or would I be able to use a different one? (of course, if its outdoors, the "breathing glue" is not such an issue. These may be Marble or Granite or other stones. What do you think? Any advice, or experience is welcome. Thanks Lance, June 17, Reply |
| R1: I can suggest you to use 2 different kind of glue for your different applications: around a fireplace you want to use a glue that can sustain high temperature. Polyester glue are tested and guaranteed for a temperature range of 0°C to 100° C (32F-212F). as far as smell after they cure , it is relatevily inexistent. they dry up quickly and are relatively strong. as far as outside job, polyester is not a choice (remember the 32°F limit?). so you are stuck in using an epoxy glue. the range goes from -32°C to +60°C. those are strong and depending on the kind chosen can be applied also on moist material. i'll be happy to send you some more info. filippo |
| Q 5213: Hi, I am considering putting a limestone floor in my kitchen. We have dogs and lots of traffic. Is it true that it stains and scratches/breaks? Can I seal it to prevent staining? Are there different thicknesses or grades that my uphold to a high traffic kitchen area? Thanks, DM, June 17, Reply |
| R1: Your concerning is quite reasonable since the facts you will encounter is coincided with your prediction. For seal isn't a good way to prevent scratch and polishing, I would not suggest that you adopt limestone: it is too soft and vulnerable to sustain as flooring. ( Wall decoration is proper) I introduce epoxy glue which is used greatly in marble and granite installation process. Under normal circumstance, the glue composed with two part: part A and part B, which are mixing together while being operated. It is not toxic and very stable. Piness |
| R2: A Honed (not polished) limestone is ideal for kitchen floors. Protect with a good quality Silicone Impregnator. Let it stand for 30 minutes and wipe off the excess material. Do not allow to dry on the surface. You can mop or wash after 3-4 days with a neutral cleaning agent, HMK |
| R3: Dear DM: Change your mind! If you like the look of limestone, get a hone-finished marble instead.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5212: I had a flagstone patio and walkway installed last summer. It looked fantastic - the flagstone was in shades of blush, grey, and sand. Now much of the patio stone is covered with a green film. The film seems to be below the surface of the stone. I have tried to remove it by spraying water. Of course this did nothing. It doesn't seem that it can be scaped or scratched off either. What is this and how can I regain the look of the original stone? I don't like this green stuff. Thank you so much for responding to this questions. Barbara, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Barbara: Try to power-wash it with a solution of water an regular household bleach. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5211: We are replacing our existing tile surround on our fireplace with granite tiles. The sheetrock around the fireplace was damaged when the old tiles came off and had to be removed. How can we install the new heaver granite tiles to the wall without them shifting before the mortar sets?. We tried to mortar the tiles directly onto a precut piece of sheetrock but they fell right off when the piece was uprighted. Jim, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi .Your Mortar mix is either to wet or your using the wrong mix. Glues are now available from various companies which allow for easy installation to walls. Stone |
| Q 5210: I work as a countertops sales person at a store and often I get a call from customers asking me what is the grade of granite that we carry. I've called our fabricators and they don't seem to know what the customers are reffering to. I've searched the net for an answer and can't find anything other than the fact that the darker granites are less porous, and lighter colors are more scratch resistant due to their higher concentration of quartz. Can anyone help me solve this mistery?! Is there a grading for granite, or a quality standard for it? Thanks Daniela, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Daniela. Yes there is a grade. Through my limited experience in this, I know that here, the purchasers of the material are the ones who will know what grade it is. Unfortunately some pass it off as top quality so finding out if its the top grade may be difficult. It's not like beef, where they advertise A grade, but the difference between the two can usually be told by the imperfections. Hair line cracks, flaws, little holes and tinting are usually the obvious flaws. Stone |
| R2: Dear Daniela: Yes, of course; like in any other natural product, the quality is not consistent. In fact, in the lumber industry, the grading is mandated by law. The stone industry - lucky us! - is totally unregulated, therefore grading is not required and, therefore again, you'll never find anybody that will disclose it to you, mainly because - like you found out already - they don't even know what you're talking about! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5209: We recently had Dakota Mohagany granite countertops installed in my kitchen. At first glance they look great but tilt your head and look at the countertops and I see what looks like many small water spots, "like if you take glasses out of a dishwasher that have spots". I run my finger nail across these spots and they are ruff or not finished. I am not sure if the stone is poor quality. I read a previous questions about "pitting" this may be what I am seeing but just not sure. Can you provide some input on what I should ask my granite dealer? Thanks, Brian, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Brian, those mat spots on Dakota Mahogany could very well be part of the stone. Different consistency, or minerals within the stone will take a shine differently when polishing giving it a less than glass appearance. But it is a trait of granite. The only thing I could suggest is going back to the shop look at the sample they expose and then decide if they show a different grade than what you purchased. This is a common claim, most customers don't notice that speckled shine at the time of purchase and only notice it one day when at home, under a particular light, under a particular angle. Ciao Stone |
| Q 5208: I have an old home with the sub flooring as my basic floor. I'm looking for an inexpensive clear resin or polymer that can be applied to my kitchen floor to fill in the cracks and give it a fairly thick coat overall. Do you recommend anything, and if so can you give me the pricing. It's a small kitchen about 60 sq. ft. Bruce June 16, Reply |
| R1: You can purchase many epoxy roll or squeegee application type of product that normally goes for about $100 a gallon. Covers great and gives that thick look you want-you can contact me for the product or reference to it in your area, BUT i did find a great replacement. First of all you have to sand of the surface to make sure the finish sticks properly. You should fill the voids before you put on that thick coat, or else you will always get a dipping effect. And try using Base epoxy paint. That epoxy paint you use for your garage floors, comes in Neutral or clear color, then they color to your needs. Simply take it without the color! Its cheap, and looks good. But you will have to take the time to roll on many coats. PS. Always do a test before starting, please. Stone |
| Q 5207: I have a contemporary fireplace with a white-ish marble surround and hearth. I hate it, but can't afford to replace it. Is there a product or methodology whereby the marble can be "painted" or re-surfaced in some way to make it look like something other than marble? However, I don't want it to look like a cheezy paint job... Cindy, June 16,Reply |
| R1: Dear Cindy: You know what? You almost got me, you little rascal you! Well, it's good to hear a good joke every now and then! Thank you. Yes, of course, you can paint over your marble. About the possibility of a "cheesy look", choose a paint that doesn't look like cheese! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5206: We recently had a new home built. I wanted a natural stone floor in the kitchen, dining and foyer. Going on the advice of a family member who owns a marble and granite company, he told us he could take polished marble tiles, which he had at his shop and hone them with a muractic acid wash. We took him up on his offer. Now after them having been installed (over 700 sq. ft.), the finish on each tile is very inconsistent and looks terrible. Some tiles have what looks like water spots, other have areas that are still polished. Because this is a family member, this is a very touchy situation. He recommended washing it with a vinegar and water solution. Our installer tried this and it did nothing. He now tells us that the tile needs another washing with a muratic acid. Now my husband has to do this and has little experience with this. Our installer said that after we do this he would come back to reseal and buff the tiles. We are sick about this and are supposed to move in to our home within two weeks. What do you recommend? Appreciate any help or advice. Sincerely, Debbie June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Debbie. Wow with family members like that, HIDE. I'll be honest you have a very touchy floor and may need a restorer to bring the floor back not only for the look but later for the functionality. If you know anyone who can operate a floor machine I can walk you through it, step by step. You will need someone with experience to walk you through it because every step will have to be tested and the results will show what to do next. Contact us here if you need me to walk you through. What I can say is whatever suggestion you get, make sure they show you on one tile before. Stone |
| R2: Dear Debbie: Wow, what a mess! And with a family member involved! … I wouldn't want to be in your shoes, I can tell you that. Go with Stone's suggestion. I could do what he indicates, too, but not for free. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5205: How would you remove oil from unsealed limestone floor? Kelly, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Kelly. A poultice for oil removal. I do have a great product if the home remedies don't work. Stone |
| R2: Dear Kelly: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5204: We just had cashmere white installed as countertops in our kitchen. Some dishes were left on the counter and there is a round stain from a glass that I can't rub out. Is there a product I can use to extract it? Gayle, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Gayle, sounds like you need a poultice. For the home remedy treatments, you need to know what kind of stain it is, if not you will need a generic product good for most stains like the one I use for my company. Stone |
| R2: Dear Gayle: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert PAnelist |
| Q 5203: I purchased a lovely fossilstone (white) table at a garage sale. It is dirty and I found that with the light side of a fingernail emory board (very fine sandpaper), it cleans up with little pressure. May I do this to the whole table to clean it? Will I have to put some coating on it afterwards? Thank you. Jackie, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi , yes you will need to apply a paste wax afterwards. You can get them here or probably trough your local stone supplier. Stone |
| Q 5202: I have some old school black boards. Do you know what I could use them for? June 16, Reply |
| R1: Yes: hang them on the wall and write on them using some chalk. They come in colors, too! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5199: I am planning on installing marble on the walls and ceiling over my whirlpool tub/shower,the question is i do not want any grout lines and i can't seem to find any info on this procedure. i was thinking about warming up some silicone sealant (so it would flow easier) on the exposed edges and work it like that. i was planning on putting "mr" board up, screwing and liquid nailing backer board then thin set mortar for the marble adhesive. am i on the right track with all of this? thanks dan, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Dan: The technique you suggested is unknown and, therefore, the results are unknown as well. If I were you I'd set the tiles using flat toothpicks as spacer, and then grout. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5198: I have a mall in New Orleans where we used flamed Chinese granite. The mall is having problems keeping the stone clean. Any suggestions for maintaining the stone, Krik, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Krik, yes but I would need more specific information, like how it was cleaned , what has been used, how has it been treated, what color and name and what dont you like about your cleaning results. From there I can draw you a maitance sheet. Stone |
| R2: Dear Krik: Sure! Call back the stone dealer and installation contractor and have them solve your problem. After all, they made good money out of that deal! In the … remote chance that it won't work, I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5197: Caledonia Granite was installed in our house under construction yesterday. When I had a chance to view it that evening I noticed a 2 x 3 " dark black spot on it. It really stands out like a sore thumb even though this granite if full of black spots. It also has alot of irridecence in it. It looks to me like someone to some black material with fine glitter in it and patched the granite though I don't feel any difference with my hands. Could you possibly tell me if this is a natural occurance in this granite or a flaw. I have one other question about installation. I assumed that he granite would be installed on a plywood base but it is laid directly over the cabinets. Is this normal? I was told that the granite had been sealed at the factory should this be sufficient? Glad to be getting rid of my 30 year old formica! Kayleigh, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kayleigh: I can't comment on your dark spot without actually seeing it, but that particular type of "granite" does have many natural flaws throughout its texture. About the plywood backing, it's not really necessary if the installation was done properly. Finally, about the sealing, I strongly suggest you to run my little lemon juice test to find out if your stone needs to be sealed or not. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5196: I am remodeling my kitchen and have chosen to put in granite countertops. I have gotten three different quotations for 1/2" thckness, 3/4" thick, and 1-1/4" thick. Does the thickness matter that much? All have said they would install standard bullnose edges. Of course the 1/2" is the less expensive, but would the 1/2" crack or break more readily? Thanks. Mary, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Hi Mary, well if its installed securely I don't see why it would but ... make sure you get some type guarantee for installation. My preference is 1 1/4 if it matters. Stone |
| R2: Dear Mary: ½"?... Never heard of it. 2 cm. (3/4") or 3 cm. (1 ¼") are both suitable. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5195: What can be done to restore the original shine of a granite counter that has dulled because of normal use, i.e. water spills, wiping clean, regular use. Thanks, Neil, June 16, Reply |
| R1: A stone restorer will have to be called in to repolish the stone. Stone |
| Q 5194: We just installed a granite counter top with a drop in sink. We now want an undermount sink. Is this possible?? Thank you for response, O Gill, June 16, Reply |
| R1: A drop in has the edges finished very rough, on an undermount the hole edge is high polished. Polishing the drop in hole on site is messy and hard to do as a lot of water is used. Find a restorer like myself and nothing is impossible, they will do it on site but the cost will be expensive. Stone |
| R2: Dear Kim: I'd be tempted to tell you to rip out the whole thing, install something more suitable and live happily ever after, but I won't do that, because I don't want to upset the slate people. Hopefully, if any of them can manage to find a couple of minutes out of their busy selling schedules, I'm sure that they will able to tell you what to do, because I sure can't! I wouldn't hold your breath if I were you, though! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5192: Hello Just recently a cleaning company cleaned our home. In our master bathroom, we have a stone tiled stand up shower. The company used Clorox bleach to clean the grout (which wasn't that dirty - a little elbow grease could have taken care of it) and unfortunately they did not rinse the tiles well at all. The result is a white dull haze all over the tiles. We have tried cleaning it, but I feel that its been etched by the bleach. Can we recover our original smooth tile finish? If so, could you point me in the right direction to do so? June 16, Reply |
| R1: You'll need a restorer to buff the shine back in if its too deep. "Stone" |
| R2: There are two chances to that: NO WAY and NO HOW! Your diagnosis is right: the surface of your stone has been etched. There's no "miracle-in-a-bottle" that will restore the original finish of your marble tiles. You will need the services of a bona fide stone refinishing contractor who will have to hone and re-polish your marble. Expert Panelist |
| Q 5190: I have a uba tuba granite counter top that has a hair line crack about 12 inches long, how do I repair it? the installer tried a deep penetrating epoxy but it not help the appearance (but he assured me that the crack would not spread). I would like a repair that hid the crack. Rosselli, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Rosselli: Penetrating epoxy is indeed the stuff to use to repair AND hide airline cracks. But it’s just one part of the equation; the other one being an operator who knows how to use it and what to do.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5189: I own a 1790 farm house with 3 priceless mantle's made by Adams. One of them is black marble. The previous owner painted over the front and top of the mantle in white paint. I have yet to find the courage or way to strip the paint without damaging the stone itself. I was told of NITROMORS or OXALIC acid to strip, beeswax to polish? I don't know what is right, I know the marble is porous and scratchable. Are there any safe steps? Any safe chemicals to do the job right? Appreciate your time.Dan in NY, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Dan: Marble is not porous, but it does scratch easily. Oxalic acid will NOT strip your paint: it will only damage your marble. Be wax will NOT polish your marble: marble is polished by abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by putting some sort of wax onto its surface and then buffing it up. To strip the paint you will need a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (available at any hardware store). After that, to re-polish your marble you will need the services of a bona-fine stone restoration contractor. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5188: We recently purchased a previously owned dining set made of fossil stone. The surface has many water stains, spots, and needs to be replaced to bring up its shine. I would appreciate any advise you can give. We live in the Philadelphia, Pa. area, so we do have access to home improvement stores. Thank you. Seanut, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Seanut: I'm glad to hear that you have access to home improvement stores. They can always come in handy! But not in this case they don't! All the "water stains" you have on your table top are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic substances that became in contact with the surface of the stone, i.e.: drinks, salad dressing and so on through a long list. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your table top. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5187: I have gotten a steal of a deal on some marble and am thinking about putting it on my countertops, but want to know about its durability, heat resistance and general usability in the kitchen. We are a very small family of three with our daughter off to college within a short while. Do you have any information regarding the pros and cons of marble countertops for my kitchen. I am so excited about this possibility Stephaine, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Stefany: I'm sorry to be the one to pour water on the fire, but you do NOT want any polished marble anywhere in your kitchen! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5184: I am considering having honed granite for my counter top in my kitchen. I would buy the slab and the fabricator will hone it. What are the pro's and con's for a honed counter top in the kitchen. Is it harder to maintain than shiny granite. Does it have the same resistance as shiny granite. Do I have to have it sealed more often? Any other advise? How expensive is it to have my fabricator hone it? Susie, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Susie: It all depends on the color of the "granite". Dark-colored granites (black, for instance) turn out to be maintenance nightmare due to surface staining (no sealer will do anything to prevent that. Only a stone color enhancer could minimize the problem). Light-colored "granites" would be much better. Resistance is the same, and frequency of sealing (if and when necessary) will depend on the make of the impregnator sealer. Some impregnators need to be applied once a year, some other can go as long as 10 years or better! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5183: I am renovating a 1900 Philadelphia rowhouse. I was sold on Corian (I work for DuPont), but found Durango stone today at a granite/marble retailer. The shop told me that Durango CAN be used on countertops, but did caution it is more porous than granite (which I have had in the past with ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEM). Is Durango suitable for a kitchen - we have no children and are neat! June 16, Reply |
| R1: No, not really. Durango travertine (from Mexico) is less porous than true geological granite, and up to par (porosity-wise) with many dense mercantile granites. Porosity is not the problem: the chemical makeup of the stone is: Calcium Carbonate. It will etch like crazy, and no miracle-in-a-bottle on the market can do anything to prevent that! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5182: I have a 3-year-old limestone shower (sealed) that has darkened in areas probably due to soap scum & grease. How do I clean it out and reseal it? Please recommend products. Thanks. Wesley , June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Wesley: I doubt very highly that the darkening of some of the tiles is due to soap scum and grease (grease?? What do you do, you cook in your shower stall?! :-)). It is most likely that you have water behind those darker tiles. Big problem, sorry. Get the contractor who did installation to come back and solve the problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelistt |
| Q 5181: I accidently spilled some vinegar on my marble floor. To buff out the haze, I bought some tin oxide as some posts have suggested. I really rubbed hard, but the shine is not coming back. The area is probably one square foot. What should I do now? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Kelvin, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Kelvin:Yes, of course, tin oxide alone will not work. I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5180: We just had granite countertops installed in our kitchen. We have an island as well. A lot of our neighbors have granite throughout their house and have told me that vinegar is great to use to help clean the granite. What is your opinion of using vinegar to clean the granite? Thanks, Deb, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Deb: Please, you do NOT want me to answer your question. I promised to myself not to use any foul language on this forum! :-)The proper maintenance of granite countertops is a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner - let alone vinegar! - my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5179: Your write up on the porosity of granite and variants is very helpful. I could not figure out why the beautiful granite tiles I bought absorb water and darken quite rapidly from the water. I figured they need to be sealed but wondered why my kitchen redo books refer to granite as "water resistant" and "stain resistant" and "highly impervious". So it appears that I indeed need to apply a stone sealer to what I bought. I will also do the acid test you mention and can only hope for good results. A question, if you don't mind- do I seal the granite tiles before or after cutting and installing for my kitchen counters? Many thanks, Lisa, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Lisa: The term: granite covers a huge array of different stones that are miles apart from true geological granite. IN the USA it is illegal to label as granite stones that granite are not, but nobody seems interested at seeing the law enforced. Anyway, answering to your question, do NOT seal your "granite" tiles before installation. Only a week or so after installation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5178: For most sealants that I am aware of, the total depth of the sealant cannot be more the 1/2 its width. Without maintaining this critical ratio, one almost ensures a loss of bond. Therefore, applying the sealant to the surface and carefully tooling it seems a good solution. However, I am not aware of any documentation recommending this practice. On a different note, be cautious with your type of sealant. The oils in silicones are proven to stain granite over prolonged periods of time. Regards Ron, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Ron: I don’t want to sound un-polite, but … what on earth are you talking about?! :)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5177: I have specified granite slab installations for many countertops, and I have now encountered my first horror story. We requested a 3cm Tropic Brown kitchen counter, backsplash and bar installation for a job in another state from a fabricator who appeared to be credible. I had made several calls to check on their reputation for performing good work. Was I sorry. The templated slabs did not fit. They had to go back to their shop to be recut. After two days, they were installed. However, the seams are not smooth, the colored epoxy ? seems to be chipping out of the seams. I have even cut my arm sliding it across one of the seams. There are water-like marks all over the slabs. I've never had this happen. Does this mean it was not sealed? How does this get fixed? Also, I can see very small pits all over the granite. And, several of the radius cut edges are hazy-like - almost grayish. I would interpret this to mean that it was not polished correctly and uniformly. The installers also did not clean the surfaces well, and I had to get a razor and scrape off much of the hardened adhesive. I have never encountered an install like this. I have not paid the balance due on this project, and I would like some advise on what to do. Your response will be greatly appreciated, Sandra, June 16, Reply |
| R1: Dear Sandra: What do you expect me to tell you? Fro what you're reporting you've got a raw deal, which is not acceptable by any existent and inexistent standard, and you're gonna have to deal with it. About the "stains" I believe that it could be the sealer (impregnator) that the fabricator may have applied on your stone. Tropic Brown typically does not need to be sealed. I'm truly sorry to hear your story. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5176: I read your reply regarding whether unpolished granite is a good choice for a shower. I am considering using Giallo Veneziano granite for my shower stall? I am concerned that it may too porous for a shower and hoping to get more information about this particular granite. If you think it would work in a shower stall, how often would I need to seal the granite? Or should I replace my damaged cultured marble with cultured marble? Amy, June 11, Reply |
| R1: Ciao Amy No the granite is a better choice, since the acidity of the products will not affect the stones finish. Properly sealed it will last for a long time. I would seal it regularly every 1 to 3 years. Stone |
| R2: Dear Amy, As with most applications there are always a number of issues. Apart from the Juperanas and Paradisos, Giallo Veneziano is one of the more porous granitic stones around. Being siliceous and porous means that it is amenable to sealing using a number of different sealers available that are appropriate for this application. Because you are going to use it in a shower stall and have it sealed there is an obvious slip issue. You will find that a honed finish (even at 80 grade) will be slippery in the presence of soap. Therefore you should think of a bright-etched, bush-hammered, sand-blasted or even exfoliated finish. It is not a particularly strong granite so you might want to be looking at 20mm thick stone. Once the floor has been sealed with at least two coats (might even need 4 depending on the surface finish) it shouldn't need sealing again for a long time (at least 10 years). Don't be duped by the thousands of salesmen out there who know nothing about the science of sealing and everything about taking your money. The other issue of putting any stone into a shower stall is the construction of the base. If you are intending to put stone into a shower stall thinking that sealing is going to prevent the escape of water, think again. Buildings move, grouts crack and sealants eventually become permeable. Even waterproof membranes are not infallible. I presume that you already have a stainless steel tray in your shower stall. If not, invest in one. With that security, it doesn't matter if you have a porous granite. (Dr. Hans) Expert Panelist |
| R3: Dear Amy: Giallo Veneziano, when properly sealed with a suitable, good-quality impregnator/sealer, will do just fine in a shower stall! Some good impregnators will last several years (5, 10 or better!), before you will ever need to re-apply them! Maintenance, if implemented with the proper know-how and products, will be a breeze! Gial |