| Q 8314: What
can you tell me about Smokey Mountain granite and Giallo Napoleone
granite? We are going to use Smokey Mountain on an island in our kitchen,
and Giallo Napoleone on the counters with the sink and cook top. Are
these good choices? Thank you, Judy, Reply |
R1:
Dear Judy: Well, I’ll be … ! First you’re telling me
what stones your going to use, and then you ask me if they are good
choices!! (???) If you’d care about my opinion, shouldn’t
it be the other way around?! :-)
Besides, how about the man?
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8313: I
have read through most of your articles, but I didn't see one that
addresses my problem. I am building a new home, and have chosen granite
for my countertops in 3 out of four baths, and also for my kitchen.
My granite for the master bath is called verde tropical. We chose
a full bullnoze for the edging. When the granite was placed on my
countertop, the bullnozed edge was a much lighter color than the countertop
itself. It looks horrible. We are being told by our granite contractor,
that some granite will oxidize during the fabrication process, and
will return to its normal coloring in three to four months. The same
granite on the tub counter did not discolor. Can you help us? This
particular granite is greenish/blue with black and brown spots. Thank
you for your help. Glenda, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Glenda: “We are being told by our granite contractor, that
some granite will oxidize during the fabrication process, and will
return to its normal coloring in three to four months.”
Too bad I’m
no longer in the fabrication business. If I still were I would make
it a point to remember such original and novel “out”!!
If a “granite”
oxidizes it’s not going to be on a temporary basis, I can promise
you that! Besides, I do know your stone and, if memory serves me
right, it doesn’t have much labradorite or iron mineral in
it to oxidize about. Also, the oxidation happens over a long period
of time, never during the processing at the shop.
The lighter color
in the edge could be because it was not polished properly, or because
the slab had been resined by the factory. Certain resins do make
the stone darker and, when they process the edges (where there’s
no resin) you’re going to have the true color of the stone
as if it had not been resined.
In many cases, the
application of a good-quality stone color enhancer on the edges
of the finished product (like my outlandish MB-6) could solve the
problem. To find out, rub a little bit of baby oil on the edge of
the countertop and see if it blends in with the surface. If that’s
the case, then the color enhancer will work. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8312: I'm
in love with a dark chocolate granite with irridescent spots named
Marron Cohiba (Brazil) or Antique Brown> both names for this particular
granite. It passed the lemon test, I can't scratch it with a carving
knife, but I was able to scratch it with another piece of granite.
The "chunks" of Feldspar? are large and look almost shingle-like.
Does this shatter easily? Any downside to Marron Cohiba, Heather Rosenman,
los angeles, ca, Reply |
R1:
Dear Heather: No, it won’t shatter easy, but I’m afraid
that you’re starting off with the wrong foot.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8311: Would
you know any reason why a newly renovated bathroom grout would turn
orange? Thanks, Regina, Reply |
R1:
Dear Regina: There could be more than one reason, but to try to narrow
the possibilities down we need to have more information. What kind
of tiles do you have? Ceramic, natural stone or what? What color was
the grout supposed to be? Do you have city water or well water in
your dwelling? Answer that for us and then we’ll take it from
there.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8310: I
want to use marble or any natural stone in my new master bath, but
was told that natural stone after a while in a bathroom application
would start to smell .is this a fact? Reply |
R1:
Dear Ali: After over 40 years of first-hand experience there are days
that I feel like I’ve heard everything. And then, all of a sudden,
when you least expect it, right out of the blue sky, here comes a
brand-new one!! :-)
I once walked in somebody’s bathroom. There was no stone in it,
yet it smelled real bad. What is because of the material they used
to build it with, or because the homeowner was a person that would
never even think of running for a prize in a housekeeping contest?
Mmm … I don’t know … I reckon I’m gonna have to
think real hard about this!! :-)
Don’t listen to idiots, Ali. The stone industry has a lot of
problems to solve, but none of them is related to the bad smell of
stone!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8309: I
have 200 sq. ft of Brazilian chestnut slate we are planning to put
on the floor,tub surround and shower of our new bathroom. This is
multi colored with a very rough relief.
After reading this website I am somewhat dazed and confused. The tile
store sold us a sealer-Sealers Gold Choice 15- penetrating water based-
no sheen.$50 Cdn.
1) I will be laying out the tile on my garage floor prior to installation,
to plan the layout. Should I seal it at this point? Will this help
prevent grouting from adhering or discoloring? or will I even have
that problem? I still have to seal the grout after installation.
2) I install the tile then wait 24 hours, then grout, then wait 48
hours, then seal??
3) Should I be anticipating any problems with this installation regarding
cleaning etc.?? Reply |
| R1:
I have a question for you: would you still be in time to take that
stuff back where you bought it and get your money back? I won’t
even bother answering your questions. Pre-sealed, sealed or not sealed,
grout sealed etc. slate in general and that specific slate in particular
is the last thing that you want to consider on a floor and in a shower
stall!! :-( :-( Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8308: My
wife and I like the appearance of stones but are getting mixed reviews
on whether to use them in a shower or not. Specifically, we like what
I believe to be a limestone, Lagos Azul. Is this stone appropriate
for a bathroom shower? Also, I am wondering if the quality matters
based on where it is purchased. We have only been able to find this
stone at Waterworks. Thank you, Randy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Randy: I’m not really familiar with that particular stone.
It is my understanding that’s classified as limestone and what
I gathered is the following comment by one distributor: “Relatively
soft stone; suitable for walls and light traffic floors such as residential
use. Special care required when using on kitchen counters.” Going
by such type of information, it is not advisable to use such material
inside a shower enclosure. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8307: In
recently had a new granite countertop installed in our bathroom. The
installer fastened the overmount sink to the granite with an adhesive,
however, he did not install it evenly with the countertop and now
we need to remove it to straighten it. It has a design so it is quite
noticeable. How can I remove the sink without breaking it? Reply |
R1: Dear
James: How can I remove the sink without breaking it?
You don’t! It is not a DIY project. Get a good installer and
they will know what to do, including using proper metal fasteners
to secure the sink to the stone top when re-installing it. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8306: We
are selecting floor tile for our new townhouse. The area to be covered
is the main entry foyer and hallway leading to the garage. My wife
really likes a marble tile called Rojo Alicante. I have read that
marble flooring can be troublesome to maintain as compared to granite
and I suggested we look at reddish granite that she might find attractive.
Is the marble suitable for this use or should we settle on a granite.
Thanks for the advice! Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nate: It much depends on the kind of traffic you’re going
to have on your foyer floor. And I’m not just talking about the
intensity of the foot traffic: I’m also looking at factors such
as children, pets, etc. All in all the right type of granite is more
rugged and much easier to maintain, but if the conditions are favorable
and if it’s cared for properly, even a nice Rojo Alicante floor
can give you many years of enjoyment. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8305: I
find your site to be both helpful and overwhelming. I had empress
White granite kitchen countertops installed about a year ago. It seems
to be fairly absorbant. I see dark areas where it is used most
frequently even though I always clean up right away. Doesn't look
exactly like a spot or stain from anything specific, just darker in
areas. Can you tell me anything about Empress White should I have
it sealed again as I have seen you suggest to other people if so how
can I clean it first? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: First you will have to attempt removing the stained
areas. Second, you will proceed by applying a good-quality stone impregnating
sealer. Third you will learn how to maintain your countertop properly.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8304: I
had a seem in a kitchen that was not level, so I used dry and wet
polishing pads starting at 50 grit finishing with a 3000 grit. The
factory shine never came back. What can I do to fix this seem? It
appears it is one polishing pad away from a factory shine. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tim: It depends on the “granite”, but it’s absolutely
rare that you can finish the polishing with diamond alone. Most of
the time you need a good polishing powder to finish the job. Hey,
I have a class coming up on April 20. It’s sold out, but I could
fit you in for the first day only (at a special rate) when I teach
how to surface polish granite. :wink: :) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8303: WE
HAD OUR TROPICAL BROWN GRANITE PUT IN OUR KITCHEN 4 MONTHS AGO.
WITHIN TWO OR THREE WEEKS OF INSTALLION WE HAVE BEEN NOTICING PIVOTS
SOME (HOLES) NOT PITS MOSTLY IN THE MAIN EATING AREA WHERE I WASH
MOST OFTEN. I HAVE NEVER APPLIED ANY CHEMICALS TO THE GRANITE EXCEPT
BASIC SOAP AND WATER. I NEED YOUR HELP CAN YOU PLEASE REPLY? THANK
YOU, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David: It’s hard to tell without actually seeing your countertop.
The only advice I can give you is to have your fabricator came back
and fill the holes for you. No matter what, it is most certainly not
something that you could do it yourself. :-( The cleaning procedure
you’ve been following can’t have caused the damages you’re
reporting, but it is certainly not the right way to clean your countertop.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8302: Sir,
I am considering soapstone countertops in our kitchen. Do you have
an opinion on this type of stone. I understand it needs to be sealed
often, and I'm fine with that. What draws me to it is the solidness,
solid type color, the fact that nearly EVERYONE else has granite,
and it also sounds like we could install it ourselves after production.
Thanks for your thoughts. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: I really don’t know where you got your information.
:?
“I understand
it needs to be sealed often, and I'm fine with that.” Soapstone
doesn’t need to be sealed – ever! The recommended routine
treatment – which I endorse – is to rub some mineral oil
over the surface of the stone on a weekly basis or so. This will
keep the stone “moist” and its color rich. Specialty cleaning
agents are still recommended for daily cleaning.
“Solid type
color.” Are you sure you’ve been looking at soapstone?
:?
Soapstone is not
solid at all color-wise. They have either slight striations all
throughout their texture or marked veining.
“and it also
sounds like we could install it ourselves after production.”
You’ve gotta be kidding me!! I hope it was just an expression.
Don’t even think about it!! :cry:
If it is the fabricator
you’ve been enquiring with who gave you that information, it’s
“quality” should give you pause.
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8301: We
just had New Venetian Gold countertops installed. The surface initially
felt very gritty to the touch. The fabricator said it was dried up
residue from the sealer. He subsequently came back to clean the surface,
however, the surface still feels somewhat gritty and pitty. Any suggestions
to help with this problem or is it normal for this particular stone.
Thank You. Kevin Hamel. Kevin, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kevin: Without actually seeing your countertop I can’t make
any final comment, but it could be very well be that your countertop
was cut out of a slab that would have never won first prize in a grading
contest! :-( There’s no final remedy, but you could minimize
the surface roughness by rubbing a stick of paraffin wax on your countertop
and then buffing it with a “00” steel-wool pad. It’s
only a makeup, mind you, and as such you will have to repeat it every
now and then, but it does work! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8300: We
would like verde fontaine countertops, honed, and picked up a "color
enhancer" to try on the sample. We did not have water rings,
etc, when we tested the "color enhanced" verde fontaine.
Is this a stone that we should seal? Or is the color enhancer an alternative
to sealer? I'm a little confused about the difference between color
enhancers and sealers, and any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!!
Andrea, Reply |
R1:
Dear Andrea: Verde Fontain is a very cool stone from South Africa.
It does not need any impregnating sealer applied to it. The application
of a good-quality color enhancer will minimize the problems related
to a hone-finish. FIY, answering to your last question, a good-quality
stone color enhancer is also an impregnating sealer.
Now, all you have to do is completely forget about the stone and concentrate
on the only vital factor of your “stone equation”!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8299: We
recently had Ubatuba countertops installed in our remodeled kitchen.
About 3 days after the countertops were installed we found circular
marks left on the counter island top by what appeared to be a pencil.
They would not rub off and looked to be underneath the sealer. The
installer came in to look at the marks and indicated that he had seen
them before and there was nothing he could do to repair the marks.
The kitchen company we went through said that our options where to
accept a discount or pay for part of a new countertop to be installed.
One interesting note was that our island counter top is rather large
and we were initially told that it would need to be seamed. When we
protested they "found" the top that is now installed in
one piece. Did we get a defective slab? Is there any way to repair
what we have? The marks would be about 13 inches in diameter but since
it is on an edge you only see about 1/4 of the circle. Curiously enough
there are several smaller inner circles, again not fully formed but
rather just about 1/20 the the radius that look to be related to the
larger mark but are not exactly concentric. It looks for all the world
that these were marks that were placed on the top of the counter with
a pencil; like someone had been sketching out a cut and they were
not removed before the sealer went on. Your opinion? Thanks, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary Beth and Kurt: It looks for all the world that these were
marks that were placed on the top of the counter with a pencil; like
someone had been sketching out a cut and they were not removed before
the sealer went on. Your opinion? I have no idea! Just for clarification
sake, no sealer ever went on your countertop: stone is polished by
abrasion and friction – like gemstone – not by applying
a sealer onto it. Having said that, if they are indeed pencil marks
you’re going to have a very hard time to remove them! No matter
what they are, however, you don’t have to accept them, period.
The Statement of the fabricator (“he indicated that he had seen
them before and there was nothing he could do to repair the marks”)
is certainly not satisfactory, as it is not satisfactory the offer
made to you by the kitchen company you bought your countertop through.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8298: I
would like to add additional sheen to my countertops since it appears
to have waterspots and some streaks. What would I use? Thanks, Sandy,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandy: Stone is polished by abrasion and friction – like
gemstone – not by applying a topical sealer of sorts onto it.
If your countertop appears to have some “water spots” and
streaks, it might be that the fabricator applied an impregnating sealer
onto it and did not remove the residue of the product thoroughly enough.
(None of the stuff is supposed to be left on the surface.) Other than
that, I wouldn’t know what to tell you without actually seeing
your countertop. I would urge you to call your fabricator back and
solve the problem for you. After all, they made good money out of
you, didn’t they? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8297: I
am building a new home and would very much like to achieve the “spa”
look in the master bathroom (soft, neutral colors for floor and countertops).
I am considering travertine slab for the countertops, but with reservations.
The local fabricator said it would work as long as we were cautious
and aware of ongoing maintenance. I realize granite is a better choice
for counters but I’d have to abandon the spa look. Advice appreciated!
Thank you, Sheri, Reply |
| Dear Sheri:
Have the slab finished with a low-hone finish and then … go for
it! You will still have to take good care of it, but not any more
that you would as if it were granite. Now remember, it’s never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The
issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone
is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too
often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8296: My
wife and I are in the process of designing a new kitchen. In this
connection, we would like to use carrera marble for the countertop.
My wife prefers the appearance and feel of the honed marble. However,
our contractor prefers polished marble for ease of maintenance and
the porosity problems of the honed. We would appreciate any advice.
Which of your publications would be helpful? Ed Victor, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ed: If your contractor believes that polished marble is easier
to maintain in a kitchen than its hones counterpart, then he should
seriously consider getting out of the stone business altogether! The
porosity of the stone – which is not much, to begin with, can
be easily controlled with a good-quality stone impregnating sealer;
the reactivity of calcite stones (marble, travertine, onyx, limestone,
etc.) to acid, which is so obvious on polished marble surfaces and
that represents by far the major maintenance problem, can not.
Now that we took that out of the way, we can focus on honed marble
surfaces in the kitchen. The reactivity to acidic spills will still
be an unavoidable reality, but it will not be so obvious, due to the
dull nature of a hone finish. Which brings us to the finishing stretch.
It’s a culture issue.
All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone
as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not
so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in
relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North
America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it!
How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they
never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor,
for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then
they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the
better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s
like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought
“lived-in” look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans
is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too,
the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over
here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any
“change” is not considered “aging”, but a damage
that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8295: We
are trying to install granite kitchen counters. Found a great supplier,
cut it, and it looks great. Now what? I know I need to seam it and
I would like to polish it again before I seal it. But where do I buy
what I need to seam, polish, and seal my new countertops? I have searched
the web and I am thoroughly confused about my next step. Reply |
R1:
Dear Susie Q.: Are you perhaps the Susie Q. I once knew and was “in
love” with?... Never mind! Now, I really hope that you won’t
take offense from what I’m about to say to you, but are you for
real??!
What kind of experience do you have about installing granite countertops?
From what I can gather from your comments, none whatsoever!
I know I need to seam it and I would like to polish it again before
I seal it. To polish it again?? Why should you that? Do you have any
idea on how to polish granite??
And the sealing thing: did you find out if your granite needs to be
sealed at all??!
Come on, Susie Q., you’re pulling my chains, aren’t ya?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8294: We
live in Madison Wi., and have viewed slabs in Milw. The names don't
always match your list, but a few did that we were interested in.
One in particular is Violetta, which I believe is from Saudi Arabia.
Is it the same as Gran Violet and Tropical Violet? We brought a piece
home and it passed the lemon test. Should it be sealed? Another choice
is Swedish Mahogany, which also passed the lemon test. We are confused
because all the fabricators we have talked to over the phone say that
sealing and impregnating are different and they seal all the "granite"
they work with, even the blacks. Another slab we liked was called
Rosewood but we couldn't find it anywhere and it looks a little like
a Juparana, which we wouldn't touch. We want a very hard stone with
some red in it to contrast all the oak in our kitchen. If we had not
found your website, we would have made a huge mistake in going with
our first choice. Thank you, JKL Wisconsin, Reply |
R1:
Dear Judy: You fabricator must know something that I don’t know,
namely the difference between sealing and impregnating. I’d really
love to know that myself and I was wondering if your fabricator would
be condescending enough to share their knowledge with us!
And then, what do they do to all their granites, do they seal them
or impregnate them??! And what about all the stones that are not granite
(approximately the 95% of all the stone traded as granite), do they
seal them all, too? Or do they impregnate them? Take your business
somewhere else! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8293: I'm
using granite tile for a back splash 6"x12" pieces, what
is the correct adhesion method (thinset, other), when installing should
I butt the bottom to the granite tile top with silicone, or leave
a space and grout or silicone? On using the MB4 sealer will this also
work for the grout or should the grout be sealed with a different
product and then the granite sealed with MB4? I thank you for your
time. Reply |
R1:
Dear Inquirer: MB-4 would seal the grout, too, but if I were you I
would leave a 1/16” grout gap and apply color-matching caulk
instead of grout. I consider that a much better choice.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8292: I
am thinking of applying urathane as a coating to mexican cross cut
travertine installed on the floor in my house, kitchen as well as
other areas. Is it practical, I am looking for an overall shine rather
than a sheen and blotchy spots? Prior to putting on the coating I
plan to sand the tile down to grit of 1500 wet or dry sandpaper. Reply |
R1:
Dear Andrew: DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!
You have no idea what kind of mess you would get involved with!!
As far as the polish on your stone, you do NOT want polished travertine
in a kitchen to begin with. And if you don’t like the spotty
sheen that you have now, well … why did you choose travertine
to begin with?
Your best option if to have you floor professionally honed with a
good-quality honing powder of 180 grit (or even less, if available)
to get perfectly uniform low-hone finish. That is a very practical
and enjoyable finish, as worry-free as they come! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8291: My
friend has a beautiful blue stone granite hearth at the base of his
family room fire place. I was stupidly putting oil on my legs to sooth
winter dry skin and only later realized the bottle cap and the bottle
itself created a few circular stains on the hearth. What can I do
about this? I feel awful and am wililng to rent a sand polishes or
whatever to rectify this blunder. Please help! Thank you! Chris, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chris: DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!! Not only would you end
up screwing your friend stone royally, but you won’t be removing
the stain, either! It is not a big problem, however, and it will cost
you way less that renting some “dangerous” and totally useless
power-tool. All you have to do is to remove the oily stain. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8290: I
have an Uba Tuba counter top and there are marks where a bottle of
Cranberry Juice was on the countertop. Any ideas on how to remove
the stain. I also noticed you said that Uba Tuba is not granite, if
it is not granite what is it? I did seal it when I got the countertop
1 month ago. Thank you, Laura, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Laura: Ubatuba is a stone called Charnockite. It’s quarried
in Brazil near the village of Ubatuba (hence the name).
About your problem, what do those marks look like? Are they darker
than the stone, or do they look like “ghost” stains, sort
of light “water marks”? What prompted you to apply a sealer
to your countertop and what specific product did you use? Answer these
questions and then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8289: Which
granite is a better choice for kitchen countertops? Blue Eyes or Labrador
Antique? The Blue Eyes slabs I saw have a large fissure or vein running
through it. I did not see that on the Lab. Antique. Is this a concern?
How would that look on a countertop? Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. (My cabinets are a golden oak, not dark). THANKS, Pat
H, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pat: How about the fabricator? Are they any good? If they are,
why should you take upon yourself the responsibility of selecting
a slab? What do you know about it? Do you really know what you have
to look for and how? In a perfect world both stone you mentioned would
be very good, but we don’t live in a perfect world, do we?
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8288: We
are in the process of renovating our bathroom and we purchased a shower
curtain rod which is semi cicular. It has to be mounted and we have
granite tile on the walls. We are afraid if we drill - the tile will
crack. Is it OK to drill and if so what do you suggest we use and
how to do it. We would appreciate your help. Thanks Donna, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: Quite frankly, I don’t feel comfortable at giving
a DIY green light about drilling granite tiles. You would need special
bits anyway. Get hold of a stone restoration contractor in your area;
it will cost you some but it will buy you peace of mind! Now remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day
out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and
it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8287: And
I need help in deciding on granite (or "granite") color.
Are Brown Pearl & Baltic Brown low absorbant? Santa Cecilia is
perfect coloring for my kitchen, but after reading your remarks about
it, I've decided to look at others. The stone place I went to say
there's no difference between any of the stones. Your advice is greatly
needed and appreciated. Thanks, Beth, Reply |
R1:
Dear Beth: “The stone place I went to say there's no difference
between any of the stones.
That ain’t no stone place: it’s ignorance place! :-(
Go somewhere else without further ado!!
Now back to your questions, I am afraid you’re starting with
the wrong foot. All the stones you listed could be an excellent choice,
but …
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8286: We
recently had installed Costa Smeralda granite on our kitchen countertops.
In the morning light as one walks into the room, it looks as though
the granite is covered in etchings, which make it appear as thought
it might be spots that need to be cleaned. In fact, when you stand
above the granite, you realize it's the variation in grain that causes
that effect - light/dark grains, quartz, etc. Is this common in Costa
Smeralda? Is there any way to improve the look in daylight to avoid
this appearance of "smudges" or "etchings" on
the granite as one walks into the kitchen? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lois: Lots of stones that are no granite are traded as granite.
It’s illegal, I don’t like it, but for as long nobody is
going to complaint loud enough there’s not much that can be done
about it. So, let’s just call all them stones, “mercantile
granite Costa Esmeralda shouldn’t even be classified as such.
Nobody knows exactly what that thing is, it scratches easily, nobody
seems to be able to spot polish it on location (personally I never
had a chance to try. I’m just reporting the feedback of several
stone restoration contractors and fabricators that tried it) and yes,
it may have all the highs and lows you’re reporting. It’s
a natural tract of that particular stone – whatever that is –
especially on not top grade slabs.I bet that you went and picked out
the slab yourself, didn’t you? which goes to prove two things:
1. The average consumer has not a clue on what to look for when selecting
a slab of “granite”. That’s why I always say that’s
a futile and risky exercise. Let the pros do it and take the responsibility!
2. One should never select his or her countertop starting from the
“granite”. The human factor (the fabricator) is the only
thing that really counts. Now, answering to your question, the answer
is, no. There’s nothing that can be done about it. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8285: What
can you tell me about using sapphire blue as a countertop product?
Is is porous? Is the surface more likely to be pitted due to polishing?
Is it actually a real granite? Any information would be most helpful.
Also is there a list of high quality granite countertop choices available?
Thanks! Debbie, Reply |
R1:
Dear Debbie: It sure ain’t granite, but it’s a very good
stone on paper. Is it porous? No it is not porous.
Is the surface more likely to be pitted due to polishing?”
Quite honestly I don’t understand the question. Who gave you
that piece of information?
Which brings us to the real issue! I hope you will understand the
true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that
like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you
that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone
itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry
that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator
who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a
reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8284: I
currently have a slate shower that I need to reseal .. while I realize
that slate is not an ideal stone for the shower (and replacing it
is not an option at this point),so I was wondering if you can you
suggest any sealers that would work best to help water from penetrating
the tiles? In the past, Tilelab 'Matte Sealer and Finish' was used,
which works but wears off quickly, and most recently I was trying
to use TileLab's 'SurfaceGard Penetrating Sealer' since that is supposed
to be a longer lasting sealer, but I've now applied that sealer 12
times to the slate over 3 days and it's still not sealed (water still
absorbs into the stone quite rapidly). By now I am on the verge of
using something like polyurethane or similar product to permannetly
seal it to avoid hassle in the future, but I am certainly open to
suggestions if you have any. Thanks, Laurence, Reply |
R1:
Dear Laurence: Look, I‘m not trying to be a wise guy, really,
but since the ripping out of the shower stall is not an option, I
really don’t know what to tell you. Polyurethane type sealer?
I really don’t know. It may work, but then it may not. After
all, by saying slate you’re saying absolutely nothing, considering
the galactic structural differences between one slate and the next.
My best suggestion is to go back to the “slate people” and
ask them to solve the problem for you. After all, they made good money
out of you, didn’t they?!
Besides, since they sell it, they must know everything and then some
about it! Just be a little patient: they are so busy selling it that
they may not have much time to answer your question. Just sit tight
… don’t hold your breath, but, hey, you never know!... It
may just happen! :-( Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8283: We
are about to purchase 48 sq ft of Verde Peacock "granite"
countertop. I noticed that the visually similar Uba Tuba is considered
a true granite. Is the Verde Peacock also a true granite ? The slab
indicates Brazilian origins. All these answers you give make me want
as much info as possible to understand what I am getting into. Lots
of research has been done, and yet, as with most things, I feel I
have not "scratched " the surface. (pardon the expression).
Marshall NH, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marshall: I feel I have not "scratched " the surface.”
I like that! :-)I noticed that the visually similar Uba Tuba is considered
a true granite.
There are many people who also believe that the “Italian dressing”
is what they use in Italy to dress their salad! (That was the first
thing I discovered when I moved to this country; I never heard of
it before! Never tasted it, either!! :wink:)
Ubatuba is Charnockite,
and so is Verde Peacock, and they’re both from Brazil. would
you like to know if they are any good for a kitchen countertop?
In a perfect world they would indeed be, but we don’t live
in a perfect world, do we?! :-(
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8282: We
are in the process of remodeling our kitchen and have decided to go
with granite countertops. My contractor took me to Arizona Tile to
look at granite slabs. I really like INDIAN PARANA. Do you have any
information about the quality of this granite. I was told it is a
very popular choice, however I have found very little information
about this name on the Internet. Thank you for your help, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: I did see that particular “granite” but I
don’t know much about it. If you’re interested, I can give
you the list of my favorite granites: a good fabricator! End of the
list!
What I mean by that
is that you’re starting your “granite adventure”
with the wrong foot!
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8281:
I recently ordered some granite bench top that came premade from China
on the underside of the bullnose there are several cracks I have been
told that these can be polished out is this true if so what would
I use to polish them out with. Also because of the transport involved
the sink hole hasn't been cut in any advice on the best way to cut
this would be appreciated. Paul, Reply |
R1:
Dear Paul: "there are several cracks I have been told that these
can be polished out is this true if so what would I use to polish
them out with."
You can try with some stone sealer, but you have to perform some specific
ritual before and after for best results! ;-)
"Also because of the transport involved the sink hole hasn't
been cut in any advice on the best way to cut this would be appreciated."
You can try your with your toenail-clipper!! :-)
Just having some fun at your expenses, Paul! I am in a particular
good mood today and I hope you won't mind! :-)
Joking aside, quite honestly there's absolutely nothing that you can
do. Without mentioning the necessary know-how - which is paramount
- the equipment necessary to perform both jobs would set you back
at least twice as much what you paid for your countertop. You have
no option but contact a reputable stone fabrication facility in your
neck of the woods. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8280: Any
advice/words of caution/encouragement on using Kashmir Gold, Giallo
Santa Elena or Giallo Santa Cecelia granite on our kitchen countertops?
My husband and I really like the look of a lighter colored granite
but are worried about staining, etc. Your expertise would be very
much appreciated here.Thank you!Shelly, Reply |
R1:
Dear Shelly: I remember that once I saw a sign on the gate of a house
saying: "Beware of the dog!". A couple of house down the
street there was another sign saying: "Never mind the dog - beware
of the owner!" :-)
Where I'm trying to drive with this one is: "Never mind the stone
- beware of the fabricator!"
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I'm about to say.
It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem mostly interested in the type of "granite" and/or its
physical characteristics. It's human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8279: We
just had 18 x 18 Travertine put down in and it is not level. I seemed
to get worse after it sat for a while. The edges are sticking up.
Big mess. aprox 900 sq ft What can we do to salvege this mess? Reply |
R1:
Dear Diana: And "Michelangelo" strikes again! Since he's
so famous and so "popular" I hope that your "Michelangelo"
has plenty of money, because it's gonna cost approximately 7K to 9K
to make your floor right! It is indeed possible to make it right:
the whole floor must be ground, the travertine tiles must be re-filled
after the first two grinding cuts, and the job will go on with the
honing and finished with the polishing.
Now, you'd better watch out! I consider stone grinding/refinishing
as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a
professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks
on the loose out there! You've already met "Michelangelo";
you don't want to meet his brother now, do you?! ;-)
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8278: We
are in the process of building a new home and are considering installing
filled and honed Turkish travertine floors in the kitchen and foyer/hall.
How practical is this type of flooring with children in the home?
Will is scratch, stain, crack easily? Also, my husband wants to install
it himself. He has experience with porcelain tile but has never worked
with natural stone. Is the pretty much the same? What's your advise.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Adriana: The material itself is practical. In the kitchen
you may want to consider applying a good-quality stone impregnator
to help prevent staining. Some scratching will happen, but it's part
of the "aging" of the project, toward a priceless "lived-in"
look. If installed properly it will not crack at all. Which brings
up the installation issue. I hope your husband will understand that
what I'm about to say is not meant do under-rate his installation
abilities, but as a professional consultant I can [B]not[/B] give
the green light for a natural stone installation to a person who has
no specific experience (and lots of it!) with it. That said, it may
very well be that your DH is probably better than certain "Michelangelos"
who pass themselves for professionals and charge money for what they
do, but officially I must say: don't do it! No hard feelings, I hope!
:-)
If he still insists, then make sure that the sub-floor has the right
rate of deflection to support a natural stone installation, use only
white thin-set, keep the grout gap at around 1/16", use sandless
grout, and make sure that the "lippage" is within industry
standards, that is 1/13" (the thickness of a dime). Oh, I almost
forgot, keep your fingers crossed all along! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8277: We
have honed absolute black and it looks great. I have just read your
responses to peoples problems 'staining" problems of stripping
off the sealer and enjoy the stone. We have found that a quick cleaning
with Bon Ami does the trick and cleans off any grease or water stains
or what ever. I put some red wine on a sample and did not see any
stain.
My question is this...does the Bon Ami have any adverse effect on
the stone? Thanks for your help and your columns are informative and
entertaining. Keep up the great work. Lee, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lee and Marilyn: “My question is this...does the Bon Ami
have any adverse effect on the stone? I have no idea. Do you? What
I mean is that we spend a large amount of money in R & D to make
sure that our specialty products are safe on as many stones as humanly
possible. You don’t expect us to spend money to find out if any
generic product available on the market is safe on any one particular
stone, do you??! Why don’t you ask the makers of that product
if the recommend it on black granite? My recommendation with honed
black absolute is to apply a stone color enhancer (which is also an
impregnating sealer) instead of a regular impregnating sealer to minimize
the problem of surface-staining. So, I really don’t know where
you took it that I encourage people to strip the sealer and enjoy
the stone. I say that about polished black granite, not hone-finished.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8276: I
was hoping to replace countertops with granite thinking they were
relatively maintenance and stain free. I was looking at the brown/tan
granite. After reading your question and answers on the Internet -
it is scarry. The claims are a little different than what I have read
on this site. Is there granite that is very durable? Pam, Reply |
R1:
Dear Pam: The only thing that people should be scared of is ignorance.
Unfortunately, in the stone industry you’re going to find plenty
of that! :-( In fact, the worst enemies of the stone industry are
its own operators. All too many don’t know what stones they dealing
with, or they didn’t receive proper training, or they are members
of the “sealing cult” (they solve ALL problems by sealing
everything in sight, but then they can’t tell you what to do
to your stone on a daily basis!), and so on. But there are many –
and I do mean, MANY - good ones out there! The question is how to
recognize the good ones?
I can take the ignorance factor out of the equation and help you out
by giving you the right intelligence! Take the ignorance out of the
picture and – believe you me – granite is indeed the best
material that money can buy as a kitchen countertop!
Bottom line; don’t focus your attention on the stone: focus your
attention on the human factor! In an industry that’s virtually
unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going
to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important
than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted
in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the
fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one
particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and
I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will
only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8275: My
wife and I are considering purchasing a condo with limestone tile
flooring in the kitchen. The tiles appear to be dirty and dull, with
some stains. Can they be brought back to a nice polished look? Don,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Don: I’m gonna give it to you nice and sweet: As part of
the cost of purchase of your condo you will want to consider the cost
of the replacement of the limestone floor with something more suitable!
Did you get my drift?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8274: We
recently had Volga Blue granite countertops installed in our kitchen.
We noticed 3 areas on the granite where there are 3-4 inch irregular
very fine lines running through the granite, with one of these lines
going over the overhang of the breakfast bar, the others are around
the sink. (We do have extra support under the breakfast bar for the
granite.) A representative from the granite company come out to examine
these lines and we were informed these were "fissures",
and that they are normal for Volga Blue granite. There are no other
areas similar to these "fissures" throughout the remainder
of the granite countertops. The representative (templater) used an
adhesive on these fissures and smoothed it out with a razor blade.
There is no adhesive that appears to have penetrated through to the
underside of the granite. The company is willing to replace the granite
slabs but assures us it is "normal" for Volga Blue to look
this way. The question is how does a consumer know the difference
between a fissure and a crack in granite? We are questioning whether
we should procede with having the granite replaced or keep what we
have since this is a "normal" pattern with Volga Blue. Reply |
R1:
Dear Toni: The question is how does a consumer know the difference
between a fissure and a crack in granite?
There’s no easy answer to your question. I could spot a crack
from a fissure in half a second flat, but I must admit that it tales
a trained eye. What it emerges from your story is that you seem to
be in the hands of a reputable fabricator who’s very concerned
to see you satisfied. And that is indeed a very good thing!
Yes, Volga Blue does have natural fissures, so it might very well
be that in this case your fabricator is not taking you for a ride.
If there are no other problems, I would accept the installation if
I were you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8273: I
am in the process of investigating installing a kitchen granite countertop.
I really like the paladio green granite stone. I have read all of
the available questions on kitchen countertops but have not read any
opinions about paladio green granite. Is this real granite? Will it
be a good choice for a kitchen countertop? The fabricator is recommending
that it be polished and sealed. Is that accurate?I do not want to
make a costly mistake. Reply |
R1:
Dear Carol: One could seldom make a costly mistake by choosing a certain
stone. All the costly mistakes – bar none – about granite
kitchen countertops reported in this and other online stone-related
bulletin boards have one common denominator and one common denominator
only: the wrong fabricator!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8272: I
am in the process of building a house & have fallen in love with
as marble called Serpentine Vittoria. I have wondering if marble,
& perhaps this color in particular, is suitable for kitchen use.
The counter will be 14 feet long so it will be prominent. Finally,
in your estimation, what is the best surface for kitchens. Does that
differ from bathrooms? Thank you very much, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: I have no idea what kind of stone you’re talking
about. Usually, if well sealed and properly cared for, serpentine
is a good choice, but that is as far as I can go with my comment.
I would really need to know what stone it is to make a final assessment.
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8271: We
recently put a new swimming pool and outdoor kitchen in and used Austin
Stone for most of the kitchen area and back (high) wall of swimming
pool. The stone has begun to show a greenish (mold, maybe?) color
in a few areas. Can that be cleaned with a mild detergent mix? Thanks
for your help. Ashley, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ashley: Which Austin stone are you talking about, the natural
one quarried near Austin, TX or the cultured (manmade) Austin stone?
If it’s the real
thing, then a treatment with a specialty mildew stain remover like
my amazing MB-9 should work.
If it is the cultured
version, then the product should work, too, but you should be checking
with the manufacturer of the material if they have any other suggestions
and if their material is sensitive to Sodium Hypochlorite. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8270: Today
our contractors completed a portion of setting 16" porcelein
tiles with bullnose edges on our kitchen counter top. They used matching
epoxy instead of grout. This is about 6 hours later, there are what
appear to be popped bubbles or crators in the epoxy and it has run
on some of the backsplash tiles. What caused this and what can be
done? Also, the three corners are extremely sharp and open on the
edges where the bullnose pieces are mitered. They look awful and feel
dangerous.What happened here and what can be done? There is a 1/4
to 1/2 " space between the tiles. I wanted 1/8 but they said
because of staying with whole tiles, it was necessary to make the
space larger. They ran out of epoxy and will return on Monday to complete
the job. What should I tell them? This was quite expensive. Stardust,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Stardust: What can you honestly expect me to say? If I have to
go with your report you had a close encounter with “Michelangelo”
and your whole countertop has to be re-done completely :cry: The grout
is developing “weird” problems, the grout gap is definitely
too wide (no matter what kind of lame excuse you were given) and those
sharp edges are not acceptable by all standards.
Get rid of the guy, chalk it up to the cost of being alive, keep in
mind that after all is only money, and get someone else who know what
they’re doing. I don’t think you’re ever going to get
anything out your current contractor. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8269: We
have a South African slate/cement end table. Placed a table top water
fountain on it that has copper leaves to cascade the water. The water
splashes off of the fountain base, which has small pebbles on it for
decoration. Seems the copper residue has stained the slate with a
blue-green residue. Can’t seem to get it off. Tried using baking
soda, which didn’t help. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, in
advance. Wes, Reply |
R1:
Dear Wes: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell
you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to
do about the latter!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8268: We
recently purchased a new house and had Juperana (?) St. Cecelia countertops
installed. There appears to be a sandy feeling to the countertops
- like fine salt. I tried wiping them down with water and, initially,
the grittiness goes away. I also use "StoneTech Professional
Revitalizer" recommended by the granite company. A few hours
later, the grit is back. The granite distributer/installer says it's
because the granite is very porous and the "crystals" are
leeching out. He had a tech reseal it, who said it was because of
the grout that used on the backsplash was not cleaned up properly.
Well, the granite "crystals" are still leeching. The contractor
seems to think in time it will be okay. We only have a few months
left on the house warranty. I have found out through my niece (building
contractor) that this may be a substandard piece of granite. Please
help! Reply
|
R1:
Dear Steve: “Juperana (?) St. Cecelia” Yeah, you’re
right: (?) :-)
“A few hours later, the grit is back.”
Wow, I’m shocked to hear that!! ;-)
“The granite distributer/installer says it's because the granite
is very porous and the "crystals" are leeching out.”
Ooookaayyy … So what? I mean, now that they “know”
what it is, what are they gonna do about it??
“He had a tech reseal it”
Oh, was that the solution? Did they perform some rite before and after
the sealing procedure? You know … it’s part of the “sealing
cult!” Somehow the sealer seems to work better if they do that!!
“… who said it was because of the grout that used on the
backsplash was not cleaned up properly.”
That’s a new one! I must write this down for my file! (The one
where I keep all my jokes!) LOL!
“The contractor seems to think in time it will be okay.”
Somehow I was expecting something like that!!
“I have found out through my niece (building contractor) that
this may be a substandard piece of granite. Please help!”
What’s that thing that I see on a distance, some light? …
Yeah, that’s it: it IS light!! “Please help!” If you
can’t reach an amicable solution, only in a court of law you
could find your satisfaction; but it would be very difficult even
if you have an expert on your side. If you reach that point, you’re
best line of attack would to contend that what they sold you is not
granite. And that is something that’s much easier to prove than
the low grading of the slab. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8267: Anyway,
I think I have deduced from what you have written that if I want a
flat finish on a countertop the lesser of all evils is (scratch-prone)
soapstone. - right or wrong? You also, to put it mildly, HATE slate.
- it's also VERY expensive, oh well You recommend a high gloss granite
as the best countertop choice- right?
My question to you is - what's a girl to do who likes a matte finish
countertop made of NATURAL STONE (of any kind- I am open) and what
should I do? I already placed my order for Honed Jet Mist - ooooh
the worst of ALL!! I think I still have a small window to change my
order from Expo though!! Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
for being so knowledgeable and opinionated!! Lisa Versaci Hoboken,
NJ, Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: “OK, Maurizio- you were in one of my dreams last night-
I met you!” Oh boy! Don’t let my wife hear this!! :lol:
:8 “Anyway, I think I have deduced from what you have written
that if I want a flat finish on a countertop the lesser of all evils
is (scratch-prone) soapstone. - right or wrong?”
Right! But soapstone is not so bad! :wink: The scratch thing is not
that big of a deal, considering how easy it is to repair it.
“You also, to put it mildly, HATE slate.” No, I don’t.
First off, I don’t [B][I]really[/B][/I] hate anybody, but I would
never hate a stone! Let’s just say that I can’t stand the
merchants who sell slate as a suitable material for a kitchen countertop.
It has to do with business ethics. What can I tell you, I’m so
naïve!...:cry:
“My question to you is - what's a girl to do who likes a matte
finish countertop made of NATURAL STONE (of any kind- I am open) and
what should I do?” Unless you go with soapstone, you may want
to look into schist, such as Petra di Cardosa. But I highly doubt
that you can find that stuff at the EXPO. And yes, if you have a chance,
cancel you current order! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8266: My
name is Yvonne and my husband and I just purchased a brand new home
in September 2004. I bought all the professional cleaners for my hardwood
floors, granite countertops and marble shower. I began to notice some
white streaks or lines beginning to appear on my Absolute Black Granite
kitchen countertops. So I went and purchased some restorer, I followed
the directions on the bottle and when I removed the restorer my white
towels were no longer white. They had black/grey color on them and
my countertops were now gray as well. This also, happened to another
home owner across the street, except he used products which were the
products the home builder recommends.
I have the home builder looking into my countertops, the person that
installed my countertops has come to my home and tried to get the
gray out but it did not work. As of right now I think the only way
to get my countertops the way I want them and what I paid for is to
have them replaced. And when I say replaced, replaced with a totally
different type of granite, I was thinking of Tropical Brown so that
the granite will still go with my cabinets and kitchen colors.
Do you have any other suggestions on how to "restore" the
black in my countertops? My home is 5 months old and I really don't
want them to have to come in a replace my countertops. I am so tired
of having workers in my home correcting issues that should not be
issues. I just want to be able to live in my house in peace.
I have read articles on the internet about Absolute Black countertops
being dyed, I wish I would have done my homework on this before I
pick this granite for my kitchen countertops. Thanks, Yvonne, Reply |
R1:
Dear Yvonne: “Do you have any other suggestions on how to "restore"
the black in my countertops?”
Unfortunately I’m not into “black magic” (literally!
:-))! Who did the “black magic” to those slabs are their
producers! :-(
Clearly your “black” granite has been doctored (it’s
probably Black Zimbabwe, but it could be something else) and with
your “restorer” thing – whatever that is that you used
– you removed the black “shoe shine” that they applied
on your stone to make it “blacker” and, therefore more “sellable”.
Now, you have the true color of your stone before you, and, if you
like it, I can assure you that’s a very enjoyable stone and that
the current color will never change. Needless to say, it’s a
full-fledged fraud and you do have a “black and white” case
even if in this particular instance the subject is … well, grey!
;-)
Baltic Brown could be a good alternative, but if you like black there’s
no reason for you to change your mind based on one bad experience.
What you have to change is not the stone that you have in mind but
the fabricator! A good fabricator would have never used doctored slabs,
and if they don’t know the difference it’s even worse!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8265: Do
you sell, or do you know of a product that I can fill in the dents
and holes in my travertine floors? We tried a kwimi (sp?), but it
di not hold. Any kind of at home repait kit that I can do myself?
Thanks, Julie, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Julie: If the filling that you have to do is not very extensive,
my favorite filler is color-matching latex-based caulk. It’s
effective, easy to handle and cheap to boot! :wink: In the case of
travertine, an Almond color is all you need most of the time. Squeeze
the stuff inside the hole, push is down as deep as possible with a
flexible 3” putty knife (apply some more stuff if needed) and
then, after 5 minutes or so of curing, “shave” the excess
with a brand-new wet razor blade so that the filler is flush with
the floor. While still sticky, carefully clean around the hole with
a damp rag (warm water). Avoid walking on the filled holes for 24
hours or so and you’re back in business! :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8264:
I am looking for some help. I have a marble floor throughout my house.
When the marble was installed there were several areas that were lifted
at the corners. The person who installed it for me tried to sand the
floor with sandpaper 320. The problem is it left dull marks around
all the areas that were sanded. We tried to buff it out, but we were
unsuccessful. I need help-what do you suggest that we do? By-the-way
it is a coffee-mocha red color marble. Pastor, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pastor Felipe: I can see that you had a close encounter with
“Michelangelo”! :(
Your only option is
to have the floor professionally ground and refinished. But, after
meeting “Michelangelo” I don’t think that you want
to meet his brother now, do you?! :) What I mean is that you’d
better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle
of all the activities related to stone from a professional point
of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out
there!
How could you tell
a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your
local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8263: I
just had granite counter tops installed in my kitchen (I think it
was Baltic brown) and I am confused with he sealing process. I sealed
it this morning and was wondering when it would be safe to polish
it? Thank you for your time and if there is any step I am missing
here and you could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it. Laura,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Laura: Pardon me if I am a little confused. You sealed your Baltic
Brown this morning, but did you find out before hand if it needed
to be sealed at all? Many a time BB does not need to be sealed.
What’s most puzzling,
however, is your question about the polishing issue. What on heart
do you mean by “… was wondering when it would be safe
to polish it?” Wasn’t your slab polished already? They
are always polished in the factory before they go to the shop. (Many
shops don’t even know how to polish the slab they buy.) So
what’s wrong with your countertop that you feel like if you
want to polish? And besides, what do you plan to polish it with?
There are probably no more than a couple of dozen professional stone
refinishers all throughout the country that could polish granite
on location!
So, please, be more
specific with your query about the “polishing” issue if
you want my advice. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8262: We
recently had a lot of flagstone put in. After the torrential rains
we recently had in California, the natural iron deposits in the stone
have left a rusty mess. Do you have any suggestions for cleaning this
up and preventing it from happening again? Thank you. Diana, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diana: By saying flagstone you’re only indicating the random
shape that many a stone can come in, but you’re certainly not
saying what kind of stone you have. It could be sandstone, slate,
schist … And again, even a general indication of slate or sandstone
wouldn’t mean much, considering how many different (and I do
mean different) types of slate and sandstone there are! At any rate,
and back to your problem, I have to go with the assumption that your
particular stone has a high content of iron mineral in it and that
the rain has find its way under the stones (or, maybe, just a raise
in the water-table underneath, which is typical after an unusual amount
of precipitation). If that’s the case, the answers to both your
questions are respectively: no and nothing. Sorry. :-( A water-proof
membrane should have been installed under your flagstone to help preventing
that. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8261: I
live in Long Island, NY and everyone who upgrades their kitchen uses
granite. I want something different, so I selected soapstone but my
kitchen designer and contractor are pushing granite or silestone.
I appreciate your comments and suggestions about a distributor. Thanks,
Walter, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Walter: Comparing soapstone with granite is like comparing
orange with apple; therefore I will not go into a comparison contest.
If you like soapstone there’s nothing wrong with it. Yes it scratches
very easy (your fingernails will do!) but the scratches can be easily
repaired with some wet sandpaper. On the positive side, it’s
a stone that’s totally impervious to acids (it used to be the
very favorites of chemical labs for that particular reason) and does
not require any sealing, since it does not absorb any liquid. To avoid
the possibility that it could get too “dry” a periodic treatment
with mineral oil is recommended (once every two weeks or so). That’s
all there is to it, really. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8260: We
have recently installed terrazzo tile (Wausau was the manufacturer)
in a residential application and have noticed that the finish appears
to be very uneven when reflecting light. I'm not referring to the
difference in gloss between the aggregate chips and the concrete matrix
(which is to be expected), but to an overall sheen disparity. The
installer used a product called "911" as the impregnating
sealer, but it appears that something else is going to be needed to
give the floor a more even sheen. Is there anything that you can recommend
that won't require frequent maintenance and stripping? Thank you so
much for your attention to this matter. | |
