Q 2628: Laying granite countertops is a fairly simple process but the key, as always, is in the planning and preparation.
1) Assuming there is not an existing countertop, begin with a 3/4 sheet of exterior grade plywood. How you fasten this to your cabinets is up to you. Many people simply nail or screw them directly into the cabinet, but I prefer to mount them to the cabinet with steel L- brackets so that they can be more easily removed if you want to remodel at a later date.
2) Once you have the plywood attached to your cabinets, cover it with a layer of roofing felt (tarpaper etc., although they make much better waterproof liners than this specifically designed for this application, roofing felt is passable and far cheaper.) This is an extra precaution to help protect the plywood should water get through the grout, which will likely happen, especially around sinks.
3) Now is the time to make your cutouts for the sink, cook top etc. Mark an outline on the counter and use a drill and jigsaw to cut the openings.
4) After making your cuts, use a latex silicon to set the granite. They make this specific for natural stone, just ask the person for help at the tile store. Use epoxy for joint seem.
5) After setting the slabs, clean any thing from the joints and let it dry for 24 hours.
6) Hopefully by now you have a countertop you can be proud of, but don't forget to buy a good quality sealer and seal the granite. Granite is a pretty tough material, but it will stain (and etch), so seal it. Some sealers look unnaturally shiny, while others can dull the finish, so once again go to a knowledeable stone seller and get their advice. I would recommend getting two extra helpers to do-it-yourself installation for a big granite slab job, for no other reason that the sheer weight of the slabs. Good Luck. Jim, Aug 31, Reply

Q 2627: First of all thank you for having this site. It's already been very helpful. I just had a new travertine floor installed in my kitchen and laundry room. Although the installer wanted to use a non-sanded grout he changed his mind and went to a sanded grout instead. I decided that the wife and I could do the sealing. After reading several replies here, it seems that some feel I do NOT need to seal my stone but only the grout. Is that the case? I see where the sealer on the stone, if not properly cleaned off can create problems. If so, why should I apply a sealer to the stone in the first place? Can I not just seal the joints instead? Also, the floor was laid yesterday and grouted today. How long do I need to let the grout set before I seal it? Jolly, Aug 31, Reply

Q 2626: Please tell me what kind of cleaner to use on shower walls/floor and bathroom vanities? I want to prevent build up of soap scum, etc. The shower walls and floor are squeegeed after every use. Should they be dried with a terry towel? I love the looks of the travertine in our new home and don't want to do anything that will mar the look. Thanks. Betty, California, Aug 31, Reply

Q 2625: My wife and I have been looking for green stone countertops for a kitchen, and we've seen some very attractive slabs that appear to be rounded pebbles (1 to 10 inches across) of many muted colors in a green background. The store calls it "flintstone" and says it's from Brazil. I'm curious to know what kind of stone this is, how suitable is is for a kitchen countertop, and what the proper sealing treatment is? I have this concern that big chunks of rock of different composition might make it more apt to crack under heat stress or something like that.
I've also seen another green stone, with white veins and no pebbles, going by names such as "costa esmeralda" and "verde esmeralda." From my freshman geology and some recent reading, it sounds like these may all be forms of "greenstone" that appear in greenstone - granite belts. If the green is due to a soft mineral such as chlorite, then that might make a bad kitchen counter, but if it's due to serpentine and/or olivine, then it's plenty hard. Can you generalize about the greens in "greenstone," or at least the greens in esmeralda and "flintstone"?
This site was helpful in identifying Marinachi Green and Verde Gauguin (which we also like), but I didn't see any notes about sealing those stones. Any comments?
Finally, they had another slab of green that looked like green marble, but they assured me it was serpentine. How good is serpentine as a kitchen counter? What sealing is needed?
I realize there's a whole bundle of questions here; thanks very much! -- Lee Campbell, Aug 31, Reply

Q 2624: I'd like to know if Italian sandstone, in particular Pietra Cardosa, is suitable for a kitchen countertop that will have heavy usage. I've been told that it is more porous than marble but less than granite. I can't afford to put in a counter top that will require enormous care or that will stain easily. Dorothy, Aug 31, Reply

Q 2623: Can you please give Specifications of the Granite (Black Galaxy):
1) Radiation Category
2) Internal Exposure Index
3) External Exposure Index
4) Density
5) Absorption Coefficient
6) Compression strength
7) Bending Strength
Your co-operation in this regard will be highly appreciated. Thanks & Regards Dr.963.*-ANAND, Aug 30, Reply

R1: Dear Patrick: I will go along with the concept that slabs with a lot of movement are the best candidates for a hone finish. I would suggest to apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to further minimize routine maintenance problems. Such type of products are indeed a great help with honed-finish slabs, not to mention that it will give you almost the same depth of color as if the slab were polished!Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear James: Many a "granites" (all natural stones anyway) are just as good as true geological granite, and many are even "better" that granite. Your "Desert Gold" belongs to neither one of the two groups above, unfortunately. "Granite" is indeed a wise choice when it's done ... wisely! Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Kevin: see a link to my guide to stain removal. Click on it!, Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Marc: Your very last guess is right on the money, alas! I never even heard of this "Portofino" thing that only Mother Nature knows what kind of stone is! Obiously. the sealer is doing almost nothing. It's typical with extremely absorbent stones. A more proper sealer applied only the gods know how many times, may lead to an almost sealed stone, at best. For what you're telling us, your fabricator doesn't seem to be qualified enough to find such a sealer and apply it right. (read my answer to the posting No. 2614 below.) The resining process would have likely solved most of the problems that stone is obviously laden with, but it's a process that can be done only in special high-tech facilities specializing in that particular process (the resin is injected into the slabs under a vacuum condition) . Not even the producers of slabs can do that; they send them out to be resined before any processing. Maurizio,USA,

R1: Dear M. Hobson: There two schools of thoughts about it. One says 2 cm. with laminated edged (4 cm. at the edges). The other one says 3 cm. all the way. Which one is technically right? Both. If the selection of the stone, the fabrication and the installation are done right, neither one will break or crack. Personally, I belong to the first group. Gravity never takes a vacation, a sick day, or even a coffee break! Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Loyd: I don't get it. Your decorator made you choose "Saturnia" stone (by the way, it's nothing but cross-cut travertine with a fancy name!), and then tells you that you should expect the BS you're experiencing when dealing with matural stone? Is that it? Just out of curiosity, what would you like to hear from me? That the filler shouldn't come out? You got it! What else? Now you know why -- when it comes to stone -- I position interior decorators at the very bottom of the food chain! , Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Tina: I feel extremely sorry for you. Along with Imperial White and Shiwasaki, Kashmire orthogneiss it's always been at the very top of my hit list of the "granites" to be avoided in a kitchen. Sealing it properly (well ... "almost" is the best that you can expect!) Is something that only a professional can do for you. Your fabricator obviously doesn't know much about sealing stone (maybe they know how to seal granite, not certainly Kashmir!). The process implies the application of a good-quality impregnator sealer, say, 5 to 8 times, waiting at least 24 hours in between each application. Now, do you realistically think that your fabricator will come to your house for a whole week, each day, to seal your countertop?! , Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Adrian: Polished marble (whether Spanish Ivory Cream, or what-have-you) does NOT belong in a kitchen, end of story! In the other rooms you mentioned is quite all right. I don't quite understand your last question. Are you making reference to where the floor will meet with the hardwood floor on an adjecent room? If that's the case, my best suggestion is to use a marble saddle. , Maurizio,

R1: Dear Rod: If you only have T&G subfloor, then I would first install 3/8" plywood before the HB. The information you've been given about natural stone (not only travertine) is correct. Although it can not be technically defined weaker than tile, it's definetly much more fragile. Once it's set properly, however (and the plywood is part of the equation) it will never crack. , Maurizio,

R1: Dear Meyer:
Q #1. How do you remove a hole from a doughnut?
A #1. In the same way you remove scratches from marble!
Q #2. How do I protect a marble floor from straches?
A #2 a. You never walk on the floor!
A #2 b. You cover your floor with wall to wall carpet.
If this second option is selected, it's advisable to take pictures of the marble floor before doing that, so that you can show your friends and relatives what a beautiful marble floor you have under the carpet! :-) (I hope you didn't mind the little kidding around. It's part of my character!) , Maurizio, Expert PAnelist

R1: Dear Gretchen, I do not know grishmill stones only gristmill or grist mill stones. They were made especially from sandstones. Sandstone millstones were used to grind grains for animal feed, because during the grinding process the sandstone would disintegrate and be ground into the grain. Millstones made of granite were used for the milling of grains for human consumption. Daniel, Slovakia,

Q 2607: I'm looking for 20lb. red and black marble to carve. I'm a sculptor teacher in Mishawka, IN. I would really appreciate the help. I will take other colors of marble, too. Thank-you very much. ASAP because these students are in class this semester. Beth, Aug 30, Reply

Q 2605: Help! I have recently had Imperial White granite installed in my beautiful new indigo blue stained kitchen (with stainless steel appliances). With the beautiful color of my new cabinets, it was very hard to find a granite that would compliment my new cabinets without trying to compete with them. I talked with several fabricators and slab yards and finally chose my fabricator mostly because I was so pleased with the custom cabinets and he was recommended to me by the cabinetmaker. I have three slabs of Imperial White installed on my countertops with a full backsplash. It is absolutely beautiful. The fabricator has told me that he has sealed it. As he was putting it in, I noticed these huge (and I mean huge) dark (greasy-looking) spots. I was told that it was where they put the glue and it would go a way in two days, then was told a week. It has now been 8 days and though the spots look a lot better, they are still visible. I have called the granite yard where I purchased the three slabs. He said he had heard of this happening once before and it was because the wrong glue was used. I do not know if this is the problem with mine or not. I asked him what had been the solution. He said the fabricator had made it right. I asked what he meant by that and he said the fabricator had had to replace all of the granite. This morning as I was washing my granite with only warm water and a very mild soap, the backsplash immediately upon the slightest touch with the wet rag became immediately dark. The countertops did not. This tells me that the backsplash is not sealed. Am I correct? My main concern is that the glue spots are still dark after 8 days. Any advice, please? Laqueta Alexander, Aug 30, Reply

Q 2604: I am very interested in the origins of my Pietra Cardosa slabs. Does the town of PietraSanta make sense? Most stone places say the quarry is very old and not much left.Just out of curiosity, Rich, New Jersey USA, Aug 30, Reply

Q 2601: Our contractor installed honed finish, Bianco Antico marble tiles in our shower, and unfortunately, he forgot to seal the tiles before grouting. The tiles now have a haze that is difficult to get rid of, and the color of the stone changed also. The contractor has already tried mild acid wash. Could you tell me if there is a product or some other method to get the haze off, and possibly restore the color?, Alice, Aug 30, Reply

R1: Dear Alice: The first product that you have to buy is a 45 caliber Smith & Wesson with at least six bullets. Once you have that, you shoot the bullets -- ALL OF THEM -- inside your contractor's body, making sure that each bullet hits a vital organ. Once you're done with that, let me know and will propose your name as a medal recipient for rendering a monumental favor to society. Well, ... If you want to settle for something less dramatic than that, just sever any contact with that idiot, effective immediately. You do NOT want that guy around your marble any more: HE MADE ENOUGH DAMAGE! I'm dead serious, now. And he doesn't like the idea that I am publicly defining him as a total, irreversible idiot, tell him to sue me! That fact that he didn't seal your marble has nothing to do with what you have been experiencing. The presence of a sealer would have possibly exasperated the situation. It's hard to tell what the problem is stemming from, although I have a few ideas about that. But you do NOT want to hear them, because they are pure speculation and, if they turn out to be true, the situation is hopeless. Get hold a good professional stone refinisher and let them decide if there's something at all that can be done to your marble, after all that mess. Maurizio,

Q 2599: I am installing a Travertine floor in my bathroom and want to know what the guidelines are for maintenance. Also, where I was looking to buy my Travertine, they told me that I needed to seal it twice. Once before the grout and once afterwards. I didn't see you mention that anywhere and suspect that it was incorrect. Prego, Richard, Aug 28, Reply

Q 2598: Please help to identifiy these values:
What all this mean to me? and the numbers? is higher is better?
technical details, value: english.
ASTM test mothod:what does astm mean?
Absorption by weight:.137% compared to 0,22%
compressive strengh: 161.17 Mpa compared to 1750 kg/sq cm?
Flexural strength:14.28 Mpa compare to 150 kg/sq cm?
I chose this particular stone,as it looks like Chinese jade. " Verde Laura" is it a good choice? or should I change? LIng, Aug 28, Reply

R1:COLONIAL DREAM is gneiss from Sri Lanka. I think it is good material for countertop & not easily available. Daniel, Slovakia,

R1: Dear Lochadun: First, you attend a good seminar about stone refinishing ($800 plus travelling expenses, etc.). Second you invest some $4,000 worth of equipment, accessories and material. Third, since the seminar only taught you the basics and you still won't know s*#t about refinishing stone, practice for, say, a couple of year (working full time for someone who knows the trade would help a lot!), then, maybe -- just maybe -- you will be able to re-polish Negro Marquina. Maurizio, USA,

R1: Dear Mandrex: Travertine is indeed an excellent choice for a shower stall enclosure, since -- contrary to popular miconception -- it is not a porous stone (see posting #2489 above and all the debate deriving from it. You're gonna have fun!). The major draw back is that, if you choose the polished version of the stone and plan to use the steamer intensively, it will gradually lose its original shine and become naturally honed. Personally I like that, but personal preferences can be different ... Make sure that the setter leave a gap of 1/16" in between the tiles for proper grouting (the thickmess of a round toothpick). "Bott-joint" installation in a shower enclosure is a big NO-NO! Finally, make sure that you'll be using the right products to maintain it. Travertine -- like all calcite-based stones -- has a delicate chemistry and can't be treated with any cleaner off the shelves of the supermarket. , Maurizio, Expert Panelist 

Q 2592: We just installed granite called "baracuda blue" is this a real stone? or ecological stone? as you mentioned? or a fabrication? Thank you for your response, Rebecca Davies, Aug 28, Reply

R1: Dear Rebecca, BARRACUDA BLUE is gneiss with garnet crystals from Brazil. Daniel, Slovakia,

R1: Dear Kari: It's from Mexico. It's a very dense stone (like all travertines) and I personally like it very much (but then, I'm a sucker for travertine!). Good quality? Poor quality? Each and every stone can be either; it all depends from the grading. Unfortunately, there's no such a thing like a mandatory grading in the stone industry -- like, say, in the lumber trade -- so, you have to count on the reputation of your dealer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Richard: Firstly, I don't think a single thing (I mean, how the heck could I know?!) Second, what good could it do thinking about it and coming up with some wild guess? If the dealer who sold the piece of furniture to you said "Too bad ...", then I guess you're on your own. There's a positive side to this, though: it can be repaired. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 2588: Seven months ago we moved into our new house, equipped in Kitchen and Bathrooms with Black Galaxy Granite (beautiful stuff). Our Kitchen counter has either just developed, or we've just noticed a crack over the dishwasher, starting 6 inches or so from the front edge, running to the front edge, around and all the way through the lip. We have not stood on the countertop or anything stupid like that but the supplier/installer is implying abuse. citing "we've never heard of this sort of thing happening". My questions are: Can cracks happen spontaneously in Granite, what might the causes be and who is responsible in this type of situation? Patrick, Aug 28, Reply

Q 2587:   I am installing 16 x 16 Turco Classic in Arizona. The first floor installation is over concrete. The second floor installation will be backer board over plywood. I plan on using 1/16 gaps with unsanded grout. What kind of thin set do you recommend? We have 4 children and the travertine will be in the kitchen and dining areas. I know you like to leave the stone in its natural state. Do you recommend this for our situation? If not, what type of sealant would be most practical? Also, the supplier of the stone recommended coating the back of the tile in addition to the troweled thin set to help hold the filler in the tile after installation. Is this really necessary if the thin set is applied to the floor properly? Thanks, Todd, Aug 26, Reply

Q 2586: I am in the process of renovating a small (7'2" x 7'3") galley kitchen and want to do granite countertops and matching floor tiles. The color combination that appeals to me is white, gray, some blue, and iridescent spots. I have a sample of granite which the vendor calls "Silver Blue" but which has a piece of label that says "Azul" and the rest is cut off. Some people I spoke with think it's Azul Aran but from what I've seen, I'm not sure. I find your replies extremely informative and illuminating. My question is can you recommend a particular granite(s) to consider? I want something durable, easy to maintain (I cook and clean up a lot), and which will retain its beautiful shine. Also, should it be sealed or not? I eagerly await your reply. Thank you. - Habousha, Aug 26, Reply

R1: Habousha My personal favorite is Blue Pearl and it does not need to be sealed. Check it out Regards Jeff

Q 2585: Hi! I’ve been reading your great advice on how to maintain granite countertops, but I’m having a hard time finding out how to simply remove hard water marks (rings) left from glasses. We have Absolute Black granite countertops. It is about 6 weeks old. We’re almost positive it hasn’t been sealed. (Obviously, I didn’t read this website before we bought). Anyway, I am assuming that I need to do some sort of poultice, but I don’t know which one specifically. Also, I have been using window cleaner. After reading the website, I am ordering the MB5 cleaner today. Thanks so much for the advice! Lesley, Aug 26, Reply

Q 2584: HI, I have a problem and would greatly appreciate a response. I have Verde Lavras granite countertops in my new kitchen. The granite has numerous small fissures. Each is small, no more than an inch or so long. They can been seen when a bright light shines on the counter top and you can feel them when you run your hand over the counter tops and especially when you run your fingernails over the counters. The installer says these are naturally occurring fissures and that nothing can or should be done about it. He says they are too small and shallow to use epoxy and that sanding/polishing would not accomplish anything. Is he right and should I accept the granite the way it is? Thanks you. Bonnie, Aug 26, Reply

Q 2582: I am a new houseowner with natural marble tiles laid on my living room. Before I moved in, I notice long crack lines, approx 8 inch long, 3mm wide and around 4mm deep on several of the tiles. When I run my hands along this lines, I can't feel the crack lines. The crack seems to be covered by a transparent filler material. However, the 'cracklines' are very visible. When I raise this issue with the contractor, his said that these are fissure lines ( water line) which is common in natural marble. He claimed that they are not cracks. What is the international standards in the acceptance size of fissure lines. While I can accept the fact that some 'defects' are natural, but there must be some acceptable limits or else it's up to the contractor to decide to install every single tile with 'obsene' fissure lines on them. Please advise. By the way, please recommend me a website where pictures of different type of fissure lines are shown. I just want to know how many types of fissure lines are there in the industry. I would like to know if the fissure lines on my marble floor falls into this category. Thanks, Khoonj, Aug 26, Reply

Q 2581: I have just installed 18 inch square honed limestone in my entry way - it is beautiful and i want to know how to keep it that way, grid, Aug 26, Reply

Q 2577: I would like the history about Marinace granite. How is was "created" and where it comes from. Thanks, Muducan. Aug 26, Reply

R1: Dear Linda: You mean polished travertine in your kitchen? ... If that's the case I feel sorry for you. If it's honed there are hopes! I do know personally a very good stone refinisher in your neck of the woods. Send me an E-mail at: info@findstone.com , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R2: Wonderboard is what you need. Glue is ok for both but not the stone itself. Jeff

Q 2571: I just purchased some wonderful Travertine. I just have one problem, about half of the tiles are stuck together! I am assuming that they packaged the tiles before the fill was completely dry. Before I hammer them apart with a putty knife and hammer I thought I should ask your advice on what I should do. Should I pry these babies apart and risk breaking them? If I can, do you have a "best way" to do it to reduce damage to the tile? Bob, Aug 24, Reply

R2: Dear Bob: Relax, nobody could put travertine tiles together before the filler is dry! Pry them open gently with a putty knife. That should do.it If they are stubborn, go do that in your backyard while having someone to help you by hosing the side of the tiles that your prying while you're doing it (please, wear your swimming trunks!!) :-) , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2570: How do you find good fabricators or installers? Is there a shortage of resources in the industry? Is there a site or spot to look for quality people to hire them? Schona, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2569: We are considering having a travertine floor installed in our kitchen. Would you recommend this or would a porcelain floor be a better choice? What are the advantages/disadvantages? Also, our home is in Texas and it is built on a concrete slab. There is a crack in our slab in the kitchen area and we have been told that can be a problem. This makes sense to me, but we would like to know if there is something we can do to fix the crack and still use either the travertine or porcelain. Nancy, Aug 24, Reply

R1: Dear Nancy: Polished travertine is a NO-NO on a kitchen floor, unless, of course, you have no kids or pets, you're heavily into "take-outs" or "reservations" and use the kitchen like a show-place! Porcelain is "your main". There some that look alike travetine! About your subfloor slab, I would use an antifracture membrane as an alternative to a full fledged mud job (the best solution), before thinsetting the tiles. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Dick: Stone refinishing contractor. Evaluate situation. Maybe resurfacing necessary. Call maker Italian Craftsman Polish (Eastern Marble Supply, Scotch Plains, NJ). Tell'em I said "Hi!" Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R2: Greg, I would recommend 511 impregnator by miracle sealants its a great product. Tilelab is junk in my opinion. As far as sealers go the difference. between water based and solvent based varies. Solvent based will tend to penetrate deeper because the molecules are smaller than water. The water and the solvent are the carriers of the sealer, not the actual sealer itself. Jeff

Q 2565: We have travertine in the shower recess in the bathroom. It has been there for 17 years. It appears that the filler has been worn out by soap or shampoo etc and the holes have turned green. We have cleaned the floor with correct cleaner but the areas that don't have holes looks patchy brown. What can we do to repair the damage done. Thanks Steven, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2564: What can I use to neutralize acid that a cleaning person used on my quarry tile floor? When I wash the floor the grout still comes out of the joints and you can clearly smell the acid. I also have grout haze on most of the tiles. Any help is fixing this would be greatly appreciated. Wish, Aug 24, Reply

R1: Dear Wish: Ammonia. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Roland: You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". If you have any problems, send me an E-mail at: info@findstone.com Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Dennis: Yep, that's what it is! I believe it's not quarried anymore; therefore keep your pieces good! , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Pam: If can cut marble, you can cut granite, too. It will only take a little longer, due to the extra hardness of the stone. Make sure the blade is not worned. , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Anne: I would be more concerned about your cleaning lady using some liquid toilet-bowl cleaner than the possible miss of your boys! Urine is only slightly acidic and doesn't do much damage to marble (if any. Some marbles are less acid sensitive than others). Go ahead enjoy it! , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R2: Tim You need to call a professional floor refinisher. A sealer will not make your shiny, especially an impregnator. That is designed to penetrate the marble to help stains from penetrating to deep. It is not a surface sealer. I dont recommend that either. you need a pro to polish it with a machine. Jeff

Q 2558: What is the proper way to clean a marble coffee table. It is white with pink and gray running through it. Can you use pledge? Your help will greatly be appreciated. Some areas look duller than others. Thanks, Shanon, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2557: I have a question. last night i brought home some limeaway from my job and left it on my counter and just noticed that it had eaten through the cup it was in and the paper towels that were underneath it. i believe the countertop is formica is there any way that i can safely remove this? thanks for your help, Aaron, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2556: I have "Kashmir Gold" granite countertops in my kitchen and was wondering if there is a way to darken the color of the stone? They are new countertops and I have not yet sealed them. They have a glossy look to them, so I suppose the granite is polished. I have considered using mineral oil on them before sealing, but thought I'd ask before I start experimenting.
After reading a couple of your responses to messages about Kashmir Gold, I'm wondering if my granite really is Kashmir or not. The installation invoice calls it "Emser Granite". They told me it's a local granite here in Northern California. The color is "Kashmir Gold". Anyway, just wanted to clarify the type of granite that I have. I'm still interested in a response.Thanks! Mike, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2555: When we renovated our kitchen we chose Verde Meritika granite slab countertops. This was installed a little less than two years ago. At the time of installation we didn't observe any cracks. About six months after it was installed, we discovered a small hairline fracture, partway across the countertop from kitchen area more or less straight back towards the wall (maybe 8 inches long). We thought we might have put too much weight on the slab at some point, and were careful about that in the future. Now within the past month or so, two different slabs have developed new hairline fractures, one all the way from wall to kitchenside across the entire slab near the previous crack, and the other on an entirely separate slab (similar to the first hairline fracture we observed). The only cause we can think of is that both locations are places where we often set a large crock pot which gets quite hot for prolonged eight hour plus periods -- but that doesn't make sense as granite is supposed to be heat resistant. The granite is set atop maple base cabinets. What causes these fractures? Are future factures likely? Is there anything we can do to prevent fractures? And, is there anything we can do to repair fractures? Thanks in advance, Sharon, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2554: Just bought a new home with pale salmon colored flagstone flooring. Any tips on the best way to clean it?? Thanks. Ken, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2553: Hello, I am trying to install 20x20 floor tiles in my new kitchen. My problem is I don't know how to start the layout. I have read several "instructional" publications and they say to snap chalk lines from each corner of the room and begin there. I just don't get it! Can you help me? Do you have or know of a diagram with detailed instructions that I could get? Thanks in advance, Rebekah, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2552: I have a light colored granite tile on my kitchen floor that is not sealed. I have heard conflicting advice about whether to seal it or not. I would like some unbiased advice on this. Also if it is sealed, where can I get an excellent sealant? At the present time I have a stain which I have been working on with an oil poultice. It was originally black, but now is a gray color. Should I continue to use the poultice and will it come completely out? Each time I use it it does seem to get lighter. Louise, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2551: I have been perusing your site and have found it to be most interesting. I think it has helped me to solve my problem of cleaning product etching on a marble bathroom countertop. I have nasty whitish bottle marks on the countertop, and have decided -on the basis of your advice to others - to call a professional. Any tips for finding a professional in Vancouver Canada? I am keenly interested in the information brochure, or pamphlet about caring for stone mentioned in some of your advice pieces. I would also like to know more about how you have become so knowledgeable about natural stone products. I only wish I had known about you many months ago! Thank you, and I hope to hear from you. Terry, Canada, Aug 24, Reply

Q 2550: I wish to replace a wood floor with Black Granite, either absolute black or black galaxy. My apartment ( I just bought) is done in deco and contemporary. Everyone I know says putting in a black floor is crazy. The wood floor is bleached oak and very ashy. I am trying to warm up the condo by using a spice cherry wood tone. I am fixated on Black so it will match the decor and give me the option to go with wood and stainless steel trim. Can you give your opinion or recommendation. Thank you, Francesca, Aug 24, Reply

R3: You need a pro to polish marble. A heat gun will loosen epoxy enough to make it pliable enough to scrape, Jeff

R1: Hope you have plenty of money, Jeffery

Q 2542: What type of finish and type of bonding are used when installing the different natural stones. I am working on a degree in interior design. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Sincerely, Lynne, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2535: Hello there - Thanks for taking the trouble to put up such a useful page. 
We have a client who wants us to acid etch 1000 pcs of Italian limestone. I have done this with very special pieces of marble in the past, (having had a lot of experience in the glass etching business) but I would appreciate a bit of advice.  I would use self adhesive vinyl to mask out the polished face of the limestone, but how do people mask the edges and the back of the stone easily and economically? The panels will already be cut to size, so I can't make a well on top of the panels and cut the edges afterwards. 
Surely it's not necessary to cover the whole back and edges of the panel with vinyl?
Isn't there a product we can paint or spray on which will stop the acid, and which can be stripped off after washing? Perhaps there' s another trick which prevents the back and sides from being etched? I would very much appreciate your input. Michael, UAE, Aug 23, Reply

R1: Dear Francis: You can try power-washing them (at no more than 900 PSI) with a solution of hot water and household bleach (4:1). Some scrubbing may also turn out to be necessary here and there. Use a natural fiber brush (tampico) for that. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Is your choice going to be installed in a trailor or the taj mahal ...Jeffery 

Q 2530: Is there anyone who can point me in the right direction in learning to carve my own Chess set? Thanks, Jarrod, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2527: I am a commercial pressure washer looking for some advice on cleaning rough limestone in the Colorado area. The project we are currently working consists of limestone and rock walls in the natural state. The have had hydraulic oil, grease and construction material spilled on it through a construction process. My company generally used low pressure and hot water for this type of material but I do not want to take any chances because of the historic significance. Any advise as to how to clean and what, if any, chemicals to use would be greatly appreciated, Tom, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2524: Hi, I purchased Natural Indian Slate (greenish/gray)  to install in my bathroom. Can I put this on the wall and floor of the bath? I'm concerned of the buildup on the shower wall due to the cracks in the slate. If so, should I seal the slate and what should I use to clean it? Thanks so much for any help! Mary, Aug 23, Reply

R1: Mary DO NOT use the slate in the shower! It can develop a condition called "lime putty" and its bad news. Unless your ready for constant maintenance , find another material. JEFF US

Q 2522: We have been working on the area of producing, installation and covering the surfaces with Marble, Granite and Travertine. As it is known, all mine and materials are scratched and discolored when they are treated and become dull in appearance.
For this reason we are looking for the solutions to strip away years of wear and tear and look virtually new. We, in Turkey, use a high motion conventional machine made in Italy to cover the defect on the surface lining that would seen in time and in some areas where a dense erosion occurs.
We would like to cooperate with your company about using,& marketing your production. We would be grateful if you give us detailed information about the policy of your company. Onder, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2521: We have 12" x 24" lava stone that we plan to install in a shower and bathroom floor. We have been advised to seal the stone on ALL sides before installation. Is that correct? What type of sealer is best? Also what is the proper way to clean haze and grout from lava after installation? We chose lava stone because of the location. It is a second floor bridge between our house and garage. Since there is no first floor, and the underside of the bathroom floor is exposed to the elements, we were concerned that cold temperatures would be transferred. Lava stone was suggested because it does not transfer the temperature as well.  Jessy, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2520: Please tell me where to go on the internet where I can find a list of rock quarry companies from all the surrounding states? Alice, Aug 23, Reply

R1: Dear Charles: Why fight it? ... Are you perhaps trying to make us believe that you're the boss in the house?! ... Hey, most of us are married, too, you know!! :-) I don't have pictures of a jagged edge, but there's nothing wrong with it from a technical point of view. , Maurizio USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2517: Going to use 12x12 GRANITE TILES for kitchen counters. Does ANYONE HAVE CREATIVE ideas for counter edging besides wood moulding? Nancy, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2516: We have an old granite quarry that was working back as early as the late 1700s and early 1800s. The stone has been setting out in large piles aging for over 100 years and we are interested in selling the stone.
It would be greatly appreciated if you could help me understand how the stone is usually sold and graded. Our stone is considered to be "Concord White". It is actually finer grain 
than the Concord stones and we have used it for building structures and some homes. A lot of it is lichen encrusted and is being used for the "old" look for posts, steps, and terraces.
Thank you for your time and consideration. William, Aug 23, Reply

R2: Dean, What you need is a stone enhancer, you will however have to remove the sealer that has been applied first. Jeff

Q 2514: Our company has a limestone-mine in its property in Iran. This limestone is completely natural and biologic (shell-stone) has 93-97% calcium - carbonate. We are in need of some information and consulting in the following items: 
1.The price of this material and other products that involve limestone?
2. How can we come in contact with international companies who are using limestone in some ways. 
3. Our general project is to powder limestone in micronized form. We are interested to cooperate with international companies who would like to invest in our project. Payam, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2512:I saw some granite flooring at home recently which had 18" x 18" x 1/2" thick granite set in 2 inch grout bed with wire mesh on top of building paper on plywood supported by wood I-joists. Several of the stone units when viewed from about 6 to 7 feet away at about a 10 degree angle appeared to show a crack (similar to a crease in a piece of paper). When I got right up over that stone there was no crack at all, not even a microcrack. I did notice that there was a single recessed light fixture overhead that reflected onto the same stone two lights bulbs instead of the one. Is this a defect in granite, since there were many stone units thru out the floor area that had similar reflection type cracks when viewed at a distance. Is this the result of installation, or a material property in your opinion. I am interested in installing the same type of granite at my home. Thank you. Martin, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2511: I am researching images for a new textbook in the UK, and need one of sacks of slaked lime. Would anyone know where I may be able to get one please? Thanks. Kevin, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2510: Do you know the chemical analysis of Bianco Pi Marble so that I can distinguish with different white marbles? The Bianco Pi Marble comes from Carrara and was made famous in Italy, the unique deposit in Carrara has completely been used after thousands of years of production. This material is excellent for making sculptures because of its white pureness and crystal like appearance. Best Regards, Alcides, USA. Aug 23, Reply

R2: Dear John: I've seen the laminated granite you're talking about. Nobody can tell you anything for sure about possible delamination (to recent a product), but I believe that it won't delaminate. Laminated like that the thin stone becomes incredibly flexible, but will never crack! Of course it's much lighter, but there are limitation on design. Especially the edges: they can be rounded or shaped. They're either straight or beveled. Conclusion, if one is not told, the final product looks like an plastic imitation of granite! About your lemon juice testing, if you ran it on scraps, they were not sealed; therefore the stone in question is a "hybrid" that you do not want in your kitchen. , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2508: Can you tell me what is the best way to do regular cleaning of a honed sealed limestone floor. I am trying to take off regular dirt and surface debris. Thanks, BB, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2507: Hello, What is Quartzite as classified in a type of construction material ? Is it Sedimentary stone? What are the possible colours? What is the related STONE MAINTENANCE info.? I'm glad that you've integrated, easier to understand Info. at your site, Thank you,TT, Aug 23, Reply

R1:  Dear Deborah: If water could ever damage stone we wouldn't have any stone in our homes! Stone it's processed with water from beginning to end! If a whole generation of your family ate on that table, why, all of a sudden, should it not be good anymore for that purpose? Relax and enjoy! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Karen: Of course your installer wants to seal them all! They are actually planning to use the very sealer that has so effectively permeated their brains! As you can see, it works wonders: not one single iota of intelligence has even the slightest chance to ever go in!! I would only seal the honed travertine in the kitchen floor (if it's the case) and, maybe, in the shower stall (especially if you have well water). As far as your kitchen "granite" countertop is concerned, before I'd allow some "Michelangelo" to fool around with it with some sealer (even it were my own!!), I would first find out if that particular stone needs to be sealed to begin with (see my lemon juice test on the side bar of this page). If it doesn't, NO WAY, JOSE'!! Of course, you're welcome to print this out and show it to your installer. I doubt it will do any good, but ... you never know ... miracles do happen from time to time! , Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R2: Dear Tiffani, Lucky for you Maurizio is not the only "We" on this site. Cultured marble, while much more resistant to staining than natural marble, can still get stained. Most times it is not the "marble" itself but the clear gelcoat finish which gives cultured marble its "shine" that is stained. I would suggest you try to sand off the very top layer of this gelcoat finish with some 1000 grit wet sand paper. Try this in just one small part of the stain first to see if can be removed with a minimum light of sanding, you do not want to sand all the way through the gelcoat. If this does indeed remove the stain, carefully work your way over the stained area until the stain is gone, then you can polish the area back to a hi gloss shine with a fine automotve car polish/buffing compound. If you have access to a rotory buffing wheel like used for cars this works well, if not a clean cotton cloth and some elbow greese can work too, but will take a bit of effort. I hope this helps you, Bill, USA , Expert Panelist

Q 2503: My stainless steel olive oil can leaked some olive oil on my new granite countertop (that had been sealed by the installer). There is a ring on the surface now. Using Dawn detergent and water and paper towels I was able to minimize the size and darkness of the ring, but it was still visible. I worked a little damp Kosher salt into the ring area to absorb the oil and it lightened and got smaller but it is still visible. What kind of product or poultice can I use to remove what remains of the stain? Thanks! Rosemarie, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2502: Help, I have Crema Marfil marble on my floor it has dull spots where the shine is gone. It seems like water dropped leaves dull spots, is there anyway to bring back the shine to this marble. The products I have tried didn't help at all. Thank you, Sam, waiting for a reply. Aug 23, Reply

Q 2501: I am in the process of having marble laid in the whole of the downstairs of my house including the kitchen ( I want a very light and very shiny floor surface and thought marble was the answer) I found your site as I am looking at how to maintain the highly polished effect I wanted I was initialy advised by the marble shop I bought the tiles from in London (the tiles are being imported from italy I am in London ) that because the marble will be sealed it wont stain in the kitchen area and to clean the floors with just good old fashioned hot water but after reading about your extensive knowledge of marble I feel I may have made a terrible mistake and it has cost me a lot of money I have gone really over my budget anyway but I felt at the time of buying that it would be a good investment can you please help me It is too late to cancel the order so I really do want to know how to clean and maintain this floor to keep it looking good I would really appreiciate an answer many thanks Marianne Tring (england) Aug 23, Reply

Q 2500: I don't know how you manage to answer so many questions on the site, but here's another one: I have some small surface blemishes scattered throughout our new granite tile countertop (it's very hard granite and passes your lemon juice test). I'm an engineer and mechanically handy; how would I try a small spot-polishing test (to see if it helps at all) before I call in "pros" for the whole job? Thanks. Hugh. Aug 14. Aug 23, Reply

Q 2499: Hello to all Expert panelists I just found your site and am Im impressed but this has me confussed I want granite tops but from all the problems Im seeing from all these people I dont know if I want to spend that kind of money for the headach I am reading about. Or am I getting this all wrong . I am from ESTEVAN SASK CANADA and from what I can find out my choses of color are very slim , the color I chose is ATLANTIC BLACK from CANADA somewhere is there a better chose to eliminate the concerns Im reading about Thank You in advance for your reply Wayne, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2498: I own a home with a walk-out basement, so the sides of my lot are quite sloped. I want a good way to move my lawnmower etc. down the side of my house. I am thinking of setting flagstones down in the rock that is already on that side of the house and making a walkway. Am I going to be wasting my time or do you think this is a wise solution. The grade is moderately steep. Do you think the stones will stay in the 1 1/2" rock that is already there. Please help.Chad, Aug 23, Reply

R1: Dear John: With a hammer! Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2495: Hi, I wonder if I could ask for some advice? I have recently uncovered a sandstone fireplace which has been hidden behind brick, rubble and cement for 70 years. Not being a geologist, I do not know which variety of sandstone it is but the house is on the Wirral peninsula in North West England where the stone is very common. The original fireplace dates from c.1770. It is covered in a soot, grease and dirt with bits of cement attached. I would like to restore it!! Should I be considering a chemical solution, blasting or other alternatives?? Please help..Andrew Graham, Aug 23, Reply

Q 2493: I have just started a large remodel project. One of the areas to be totally redone is the kitchen. My husband and his father are licensed homebuilders and thus doing all the work. The countertops themselves are not very difficult and it's about 50 square feet. However, after reading on this site I am terribly concerned about what I am getting myself into. It sound to me as though Granite is a total nightmare! My questions are this...the site has an Absolute Black, which is what I have selected, but from reading here there is no such thing. I recieved a sample and it's solid, but how much trouble is this going to be? Next question, I've read it should be seald, it should not be sealed...which is it? Stains and Cleaning, I am now worried about this. The order has not been delivered and will be some time before the work starts should I cancel? Where do I go Thanks! Mimi , Aug 19, Reply

I sent you an email earlier about my granite from Do It Yourself Granite. Well tonight I performed the lemon juice test and left it there for about 5 minutes and nothing happened When we wiped it clean there was a very slight darker tone under the drops that only appeared when we looked at it under bright light and moved the scrap piece around to catch the reflection. Now my husband and I have a disagreement about “to seal or not to seal” I told him what I’ve read and that according to the test there is no reason to seal b/c I doubt lemon juice will sit on my counter unnoticed for a period of time and that even if it does it’s going to take some serious looking to find it. I also told him that the sealer may be the problem down the road thus costing us more to have it removed.
You are the expert and he’s a crazy man.
Can you settle this? Thanks again! Mimi

R1: Dear Joe: First off, the word flagstone makes only reference to the way the different pieces of stones were cut and the way they were installed. As far as the actual type of stone is concerned, it could be anything, therefore, without knowing what type of stone we're dealing with, there's no way I can tell you what kind of sealer (if any) to use. About solidifying the loose pieces of stone, exterior installations are not really my strong point. The best thing I can tell you is to get hold of a good stone mason. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

A 1119: I need some help with some words I hope you can take the time to help me : Delippage, grinding, honing, flaming, tumbling, satin, polishing, crystallization, buffing compounds, impregnators, color enhancers,and topical coating. USA, Oct 3. Reply R1: Here they are!
Delippage: A grinding action aiming at eliminating "lips" from a poorly executed installation, a "lip" being a difference in level where two tiles meet. The industry standard of acceptability of a "lip" is 1/32" Grinding: An aggressive frictioning action implemented with very coarse tools and material aiming at reducing the thickness of a given piece of stone.
Honing: It's grinding with gloves! It's still grinding, but with much less aggressive tools and material, which is meant to eliminate scratch patterns from a stone surface, without producing additional ones (at least very visible). There are several degrees of honing; Low hone, when the final result is a smooth surface without any reflection whatsoever. Medium hone, when there's a slight reflection from a low angle point of view; high hone, when it's almost polished. Medium hone and high hone -- according with different types of stone -- are also referred to as "Satin finish".
Flaming: Is a particular process that aims at tempering the surface of a slab of granite (or marble). The procedure is usually implemented on a very rough surface, and is carried out by alternating the action of a very powerful torch, with cold water from a hose. The operator actually holds a torch with one hand and the hose with the other.
Tumbling: It's a process by which rough pieces of stone (usually precut to a determined size) are put inside an asymmetrically turning barrel (or drum, or tumble), together with some harder materials, usually, stones. The process -- that goes on for several hours -- produces a rough, yet scratch-free finish, and it also creates chips along the edges of the pieces of stone (that get smoothed out by the tumbling action), giving a final look as if the stone had been used for centuries.
Polishing: Is the extremely fine abrasive action -- that follows the honing phase -- that will produce a gloss as high as the stone at hand can show. It can be implemented with specialty powders, or with manmade "brick" (same abrasive powders cemented together with some sort of resin). The most popular powders for polishing stone are aluminum oxide, or tin oxide.
Crystallization: It's a marketing term to describe what turns out to be a make-believe polishing procedure for calcite-based stones. It's designed for operators with no previous experience, who would like to learn how to polish marble, but think it's too difficult. The process is a chemical approach which is meant to actually destroy the crystals of Calcium Carbonate on the surface of the stone by means of a strong acid (typically fluoridric acid), so that some other shining agents (mostly waxes) can bond to it.
Buffing compound: it’s a mix a polishing powders. Some times it can be found in a cream or paste form.
Impregnator: it's a below surface, penetrating sealer meant to clog the pores of the stone, so that it will not absorb staining substances.
Color enhancer: It's mostly mineral oil (of the type that doesn't evaporate), that's absorbed by the stone and gives it a so called "wet look". It's very popular with tumbled marble. Most color enhancers are impregnators, too.
Topical coating: It’s a coating that's applied to any surface for protection purposes. In the case of a floor it could be a wax. In the case of a hardwood floor it could be polyurethane, etc.
Ciao, Maurizio, USA