| Q 2488:We are remodeling the
kitchen and are leaning towards installing blue pearl countertops. We live
in Chattanooga TN. All of the local fabricators insist this stone must be
sealed yearly, and from this site, I have found this not to be true, so
I worry about the local knowledge base. I have spoken to a nationally distributed
fabricator and they seem knowledgable and much more reasonably priced than
other local companies (although they will still use a local company for
installation). I think they can save us alot of money but I want to make
sure we get a good product. Thanks. Jess, Aug 14, Reply
|
| R2: Dear
Jess, Blue Pearl is a very special type of granite that varies in composition
from syenite to nepheline syenite. Because it comes from a place in Norway
called Larvik it is also called larvikite. It has no quartz so is softer
than most granites but it generally closes well. However, when you look
at the surface at an angle there are small pits due to the mechanical abrasion
of a spectacularly coloured mica known as lepidomelane. These should not
cause any concern with respect to absorption. Polishing the surface of any
granite, particularly Blue Pearl, provides a high natural resistance to
soiling and there is no need to apply a sealer to this type of rock. But
of course, the installers want to make more money out of you don't they;
they want to sell you a sealed product now, and a sealer again next year,
and so on. And if any problems arise with the sealer then I'm sure they
will try to sell you a stripper, an impregnator, and maybe another sealer.
Get the picture?, Dr. Hans Australia, Expert Panelist |
R1: Dear
Jess from Chattanooga: I will not comment about pricing and the type of
quality you can expect to get from one fabricator over another one. Many
a time I must assume, while giving my answers, but I never speculate.
Blue Pearl, an Anorthosite from Norway (not a grante by a long shot) is
one of the best stones that money can buy for the intents and purposes of
a kitchen countertop, for as long is not tampered with by the application
of stone sealers and other unnatural stuff like that. The stone is so dense
that won't take in anything!
Your local fabricators -- like most other fabricators in the entire country
-- have gotten their "stone education" by a whole army of salesmen and the
invoices of the importer/distributor. They actually believe that Blue Pearl
is a granite! Hey, the invoice says so!! That's how deep they go about knowing
the business they've gotten involved in! Toward the end of this page's left
side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on
it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication facility
(and stone). That should help you with your decision. Once back on this
page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for
maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those!
Maurizio,
|
| Q 2487: I
have a lovely Verde-marble-topped console about 3 years old. I was told
the marble is from Switzerland, but it exactly matches the marble floor
of the room that contains the console. That marble I was told came from
Taiwan. In any case, the console's marble has recently developed what appears
to be granules of table salt over part of the surface. But, of course, they
resist routine cleaning. Any suggestions? Also, the floor has two squares
of Verde marble that have developed what appear to be ripples as from a
stone dropped into water. Any way to return to the smooth glaze once there?
I just sent a few days ago a
message having to do with Verde marble (from Switzerland, I was told) on
a console top that has produced what look like table salt crystals. I was
wondering whether there was anything I could do to remove them. I also have
a dining room floor of Verde marble (from Taiwan, I was told) that has two
tiles with raised blemishes. Is there a way to restore the original look?
Fulmer, Aug 14, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Fulmer: There are many green marbles that comes from different countries
but look pretty much the same! The problems you're reporting on the floor
could be caused by water under the tiles due, for instance, to missing grout;
but, since it's happening also on your console, it just might be that you're
using the wrong cleaning products. You can get my free maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of
this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,
|
| Q 2486: I am designing and
planning to install a fireplace surround using 1.25 inch thick travertine
marble. I would like to use very large pieces, the largest being roughly
3ft x 7ft but am unsure of the proper technique to bond the material to
the wall. I had planned to use ½ inch cement backer board attached to heavy
framing. My main concern is breakage due to thermal movement of the large
pieces. Can you offer any advice? In addition, what are the best sources
for the marble? I would supply drawings of the individual pieces. Frank,
Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2485: Hi
firstly what a great website! I am considering honed and sealed travertine
for a bathroom vanity and guest room coffee/tea area will it stand up to
reasonable use in these areas or will I be driven crazy worried about stains
thankyou very much! cissy, Aug 14, Reply
|
| R2:
Dear Cissy: Excellent choice! Just use some common sense and a little grain
of salt about it's daily maintenance. You can get my free maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of
this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R1:
Dear Cissy, Travertine is mainly used both for exterior and interior purposes.
There are many types of travertine as well. For example we sell some travertines
that have onyx minerals in them and they are more durable then the other
ones. As long as you have an installer who knows what he is doing, and they
use the necessary sealant I don't think you will have many problems. But
keep in mind, all stones will stain, even laminate floors will stain if
the staining object/juice/wine whatever is not wiped off... Don't forget
Roman empire was build by travertine, and it is white... and it lasted for
centuries... and they didn't have seals then... if you have any other questions
please feel free to ask. also check out the "library" section of
findstone.com, they have detailed information on all stone types. Thanks,
Gina |
| Thank you so
much for your answers, great service! :-) |
| Q 2484: Which
is the better sealant for granite (countertop) and travertine (backsplash)
and why? Thanks, Monica, Aug 14, Reply |
Q 2483: Hi,
I'm fumbling through trying to improve my home. I am crazy about stone,
would like to buy well and with confidence. Could you help me with some
basic knowledge about what I am trying to select? I have received bids on
installing a granite kitchen counter. This area is in the shape of an asymetric,
square cornered "U". (one side is shorter than the other) I calculate high
at 37 sqft flat surface, 10.5 linear ft. of bullnose, 16.5' linear of backsplash
(4") and 9' of 3" sill inserts. The contractor calls this 61 sq ft total.
I take into consideration various waste but think that this might not require
as much stone if it was cut more precisely. What are the prohibitions associated
with cutting 4" and 3" slabs from the same square foot piece? I have received
an answer from the installer but would like to hear another opinion. Also,
can you tell me where this stone (giallo veneziano) comes from as
I cannot find it in the stone album? What price does this type of granite
normally sell at? What differenciates quality and pricing? Please advise
me about things to ask bout and things to be on the look out for with the
"Michelangelos" of stonework in order to insure that I receive the best
product and workmanship possible for my money. Thanks in advance for your
help. I cant beleieve that there is someone like you out here. after finding
and reading thru your site, I feel less scared.
I chose this particular stone because the original kitchen project installed
a granite cook island of Juperana Giallo with lots of sweeping movement.
The installation was done 3 years ago and budget prohibited me from doing
all the counters at the same time. Now, different part of the mountain,
different color intensity, different patterns. This new selection seemed
to be the closest in overall color combinations with a small "speck" pattern
to compliment the original piece. I also thought it might "seam" easier
because the pattern is small and busy therfore requiring less stone. I'm
so curious as to why you asked. Did I make a mistake??? Very Best Regards,Cindy,
Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2482: I
recently had my front stoop redone with limestone and the contractor used
muriatic acid to clean the stone after he installed it. After a few days
the entire surface began to look like a big rust stain! All of the limestone
is a rust color. Is there any easy way to remove the stains? Is pressure
washing a good idea? Thanks. Anthony Aug 14, Reply |
| R2: Hi
Anthony- Try using one of the rust removing products (CLR etc.) available
at most home centers before giving up. Unless your contractor used contaminated
acid to do the washing the staining came from a high iron content in the
water he rinsed the limestone with after etching it. Rust stains are a common
problem when working with many different types of stone - using a wet saw
with water with a high iron content will cause the same stains. If your
contractor neutralized the acid and rinsed the surface thoroughly it is
unlikely the integrity of the stone was compromised. Warner, USA |
| R1: Well
Anthony, Muriatic acid is used to clean brick, but should be kept far away
from limestone. Have you ever mixed vinegar and baking soda and watched
it fizz. You got the same kind of chemical reaction between the limestone
and acid. What you are seeing is the insoluble residue left behind after
the calcium carbonate dissolved. How deep into the stone the damage goes
depends on the strength of the acid mixture, and how long it stayed on the
stone before it was rinsed off. Pressure washing will probably only do more
damage since the structural and chemical integrity of the stone has already
been compromised. Sorry for the sad news, JVC, USA |
| Q 2481: I
have to grout 4x8 quarry tile with a buffer because the joints have to be
completely full. Any advice on technique? Reifler, Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2480: How
good is this stone. Is it the same as indo italian. does it have an ivory
finish regards.Alexander, Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2479: A
friend of mine recently purchased Uba Tuba and I purchased Golden King,
they were sold to us as Granite products but I recently read that in your
answers that Uba Tuba is not a granite. If not, what type of stone
is it? Also, is Golden King a Granite? How should we clean these products?
they have been sealed by the dealer. Please help as I have a oil stain on
my Golden King and have applied a Poultice (it is still on at this moment).
Any advise would be great. Thanks. Aida, Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2478: We recently put down
marble floor in our kitchen. We left the sealer on for about four hours.
The marble seems to have a dull haze on it.We later but the same marble
in our laundry room. I didn't leave the sealer on too long and now the laundry
room looks a lot better than the kitchen. I have buffed and put a polish
on but it still doesn't look as good as the laundry room. What should I
do? Sherry, Aug 14, Reply |
| Q 2477: Is there a performance
difference between a fabricated soapstone and real soapstone? If not, what
is the price difference. Also, what in your opinion is the best color for
cabinets with soapstone countertops and sink? Flooring? Thanks. Melissa,
Aug 14, Reply |
| R1: My understanding
of the term "fabricated soapstone" is that some work has been done
to a natural soapstone - be it grinding, polishing, "oiling" or shaping
it according to some specs. It is possible that some factory may have used
soapstone as a base in an agglomerate like they do with quartz or marble
- but I have not come across such factory or such product (engineered or
man made soapstone) either. Real soapstone - well, that's your soapstone
in its natural state. As for color guidance, this is not a simple matter
of matching with the soapstone. You will have to consider such issues as
- the mood you're trying to achieve, your wall paints, your window treatments,
and a whole line of other points that need to come together for the purpose
of - guess what - creating the mood or effect you want to achieve. My suggestion
is that you go to your nearest Lowe's or Home Depot or Expo and use the
services of their in-store consultant decorator - because I'm not and I
don't pretend to be. Or perhaps just browse through their room vignettes
to get some ideas. My comments are purely based on decorating my house.
Good luck. Gene, USA |
| Q 2476: I have a room that
has tongue and groove cedar on the ceiling and I'm thinking that I would
like to put rock on the wall, either the full wall or half way up. What
is the best stone/rock to use for that, where do I get the information
needed to install and does there need to be anything special on the cement
foundation that is already been poured. I am starting from scratch, the
walls are just studs right now. Thanks for any help. Ringer, Aug 12, Reply |
| Q 2475: I live in Dallas, TX
and I am looking to have a natural granite installed in my kitchen (155sq
ft.) and at $12.99sqft I'm wondering if this is a fair price or should
I keep shopping around? Please advise thank you very much for your time
and have a wonderful day! Christian, Aug 12, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Christian: pretty please, tell me where you can get granite installed at
$12.99 sqft. in Dallas. Everywhere else they are charging anywhere between
$50 and $90 per square foot!! Check with your local Home Depot, if you don't
believe me. I only have one comment about your $12.99 "granite": When a
deal sounds too good to be true ... You can get my free maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of
this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,USA,
|
| Q 2474: I am building a barn
style house and wanted to use slate rather than ceramic tile when practical
as I love it's rustic look. I need to surface tub/shower walls, bath vanity,
kitchen counters, kitchen and bath floors. We need surfaces that don't
require unusual pampering and can take spills, water, hot pots etc.. Would
slate work in any of these situations? What about slabs versus tiles?
I have heard the slate I see at the local hardware store is an inferior
grade, is this true and where should I look for a better quality? We are
in Northern California Bay Area. Thanks, Linda, Aug 12, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Linda: If you're looking for a low-maintenance, worry-free material, you're
way off base with slate, no matter what a good garde it is! Reconsider!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA,
|
| Q 2473: I need advice on
how to clean algae from my mother's marble head stone, what to use,
any chemicals to avoid/ use? Shaun, Aug 12, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Shaun: Scrape the worst with a razor blade, then finish the job up with
straight household bleach. Maurizio,USA, |
Q 2472: We have an floor
made of Supergrey granite. Accidentally a floor microliquid (Jif) bottle
leaked on the granite and was not removed before three days. As a result
we have a 50cms black stain on the grey granite. Furthermore, right now
all the marble
suppliers are closed due to holidays. Do you have any solutions and suggestions,
maybe with products that are available in Europe as well? Jif microliquid
contains amongst other ingredients anionic surfactants soap (less than 5%),
polycarboxylate (less than 5%), nonionic surfactants (5% to 15%) & preservatives.
Thanking you in advance for your
help. Ruth, U.K. Aug 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Ruth: Quickly, send me an E-mail at: info@findstone.com.
I'll be glad to e-mail you my free guidelines about stain removal. Maurizio,USA,
|
| Dear Sir, I
do thank you but I solved the problem with the Supergrey Granite. Keep up
the good work. Ruth Borg |
| Dear Maurizio,
Frst thanking you for your immediately reply, here is an update of what
happened to date. Since the glaze from the granite was not removed despite
the stain, I tried spraying O-Cedar on the granite. The stain faded slightly,
though it is still visible. Now we put some talcum powder on it, hoping
that by tomorrow it will vanish, however, to tell you the truth I sincerely
have my doubts. Thanking you in advance for your help. Yours sincerely,
Ruth |
| Q 2471: I have installed 12
x12 inch granite tiles to my kitchen counters. The granite is called "new
imperial brown" and I used a charcoal unsanded grout called Polyblend. I
noticed many small pits and fissures, visible to the naked eye, but was
told the grout would fill these. It did not. The grout will be ready to
seal in another 72 hours and I am apprehensive about going forward until
I have a good answer about these imperfections. I have purchased a product
called 511 Porous Plus, but need to know if it is the right product or if
something else is needed to fill the imperfections. Andrew, Aug 12,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Andrew: In as
much 511 Porous Plus is a good sealer, it will NOT fill your pits
and fissures. It's not the right product for your stone, either, since it's
formulated for very porous stones only, which is not the case with your
"granite". Get your money back, then, before buying a different sealer,
make sure that your stone needs one to begin with (see the "lemon juice
test" on the side-bar of this very page). If it doesn't, do NOT seal it.
Only seal the grout. Now about your pits and fissures, they are natural
traits of many a "granite", Only a proven professional with penetrating
epoxy could fill them. Do NOT try that yourself! You can get my free maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the
bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2470: We would like to put
a type of slate on our kitchen floor. Do you know if it is possible to
buy lighter weight slate for use over floorboards. Any advice would
be much appreciated. Regards, Susan, Aug 11, Reply |
Q 2469: I've noticed several
postings on the excellent findstone website relating to your study of
60 different limestones for building use. Did this analysis include Australian
limestones? We live in South Australia and are thinking of using raw
limestone blocks for exterior walls and raw limestone tiles for some interior
walls in our new house; the tiles
are for the bathroom. Could you please comment on the relative merits of
limestone from Mt. Gambier in South Australia, Carabooda limestone from
Western Australia and Moore River limestone, also from WA? These are the
limestones that we are aware of and have been recommended to us. What other
domestic sources are available? We are leaning towards WA
limestone (Carabooda), as we have been told that it does not need to be
sealed (for exterior use at least), unlike Mt Gambier limestone which is
much more porous and will grow moss if not sealed! I have noticed on the
findstone web site that it may be best to leave limestone unsealed, otherwise
the sealant may adversely affect it. Do you have an opinion on this? Are
there any sealants that are particularly suited to the limestones mentioned
above? Are there any sealants to stay away from? Best regards, Sandra, South
Australia. Aug 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra, I presume that
this is a follow-up enquiry to the earlier one. My analysis included only
one Australian limestone because I was unaware of its geotechnical characteristics.
Once this became known it was quickly excluded because of the strict parameters
which needed to be addressed for the Sydney buildings. This particular limestone
(also from WA) was broadly similar to the three that you have mentioned
in your enquiry. For your project, have you obtained a large sample of each
so that you have the luxury of feeling it and doing all the necessary things
with it. By doing this you might well be able to make up your own mind as
to whether you want to use these types of rock. If not, why not get your
architect to engage a stone scientist to do the homework for you. Maybe
you should not be so limited in your thinking - there are many other unusual
options., Dr. Hans, Australia, Expert Panelist |
Q 2468: I was researching a
honed granite kitchen countertop and was talked out of it by every supplier
I came in contact with, but was really unsold when one gave me a sample
of polished and honed and a month later my thumb print is still on the honed.
I wish I had read your advise earlier, it would have saved me much research.
I have since ordered a polished Nero Assoluto countertop and, having
read your article realize there is no need to seal it. It is being installed
next week. Should I contact the supplier and request that they not seal
it before installing it or is that something generally done on sight? Perhaps
I'm too late and it has already been done.
I, like Carlos of previous advise given, live in Toronto, and would love
the name of your former "student".
Your advise is great, informative, funny and wonderfully detailed, it is
wonderful of you to provide such a service. Tracey, Aug 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Tracey: Are you talking about me? Good choice about your counterttop. Do
make sure that they won't seal it, nor at the shop, nor at your place! About
my former "student", send me an e-mail at: info@findstone.com
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,USA, |
| Q 2467: A designer wants
me to put travertive on my bathroom counter, floor and around the most used
shower in the house. When I heard about the need to seal it, I expressed
my concerns as I am a busy professional and not an overly attentive housekeeper.
Sounds as if keeping travertine up is a little more work than I had bargained
for. Can you give me the REAL scoop what needs to be done before installation
and after to keep it looking good? Thanks, Candy, Aug 11, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Candy: Contrary to popular misconception, travertine is quite a dense stone
and does NOT need to be sealed. If you don't believe me, spill a few drops
of water on the surface of a sample tiles and let me know if any of it will
ever be absorbed by the stone! A sealer for stone (a.k.a. Impregnator) only
helps solving the problem of absorbency of the stone, but offers no protection
whatsoever. That said, I consider polished travertine a good choice for
a bathroom, providing it's installed properly to begin with, and maintained
properly afterwards. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left
side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,USA,
|
| |
| Q 2466: I am so impressed with
your site I thought I'd ask a question myself the answer is probably in
your site however I would like some clarity. I have a newly installed
marble bathroom I used a good sealer it is beautiful. My problem is
the room is very small and has only a 20"x20" window for ventilation. The
room sweats more than I thought it would. We use a rubber blade to wipe
it down but our water is hard I don't know to best maintain it. Household
cleaners are mentioned however I am unclear about acidic cleaners alkaline
cleaners detergent cleaners which ones help which ones hurt, should I wipe
the whole room or just the shower? Any clarity at all would be greatly
appreciated. Kathy, Aug 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Kathy: That's an easy one! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this
page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,USA,
|
| Q 2465: I need advice on
a stone choice for kitchen countertops. My husband and I have gone to
major slab warehouse after slab warehouse. We can't find a granite (which
we understand is the first choice) that we like. They are all too busy.
We keep coming back to OUR first choice which is Crema Marfil 3cm. It's
more understated and "quiet". But after reading your Q&A page we know
it's not the right choice. So is there a granite out there that is as subtle
and understated as the Crema Marfil? And as for marble not being appropriate
for the kitchen, my aunt's home had Carrera marble countertops from the
1920's. Yes, they had scratches from many years heavy use but they were
beautiful with a glow and a feel to them that was wonderful. Were they using
a different sealer back then? Thanks for any help. Terry, Aug 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Terry: Yeah, right, they were indeed using a different sealer back in the
'20s: the very same that the ancient Egyptians used on their piramids, and
the ancient Romans use on the Coliseum!! Let's just say that your aunt was
"perceiving" marble like a Mediterranean, while in here and Northern Europe
they perceived it like, well ... Americans! In a nutshell, your aunt couldn't
care less! That was the sealer!! There nothing wrong with using honed marble
in a kitchen, for as long you "think" like your aunt! You can get my free
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the
link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be
glad you did! Maurizio,USA, |
Q 2464: I have two questions---I
need to identify a marble dust statue that I purchased. It appears
to be a roaring twenties flapper---or it could be a Victorian woman--not
at all sure---it had a tag on it that said Robin Hood.
Second question--how do I best remove rust from this marble dust statue?
Thank you. Paige, Aug 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Paige: If the rust stains are as old as the statue, then there's very little
chance to remove them. You can try with a poultice mixing talc powder (baby
powder) with a product called "Iron Out" (available at fine hardware stores)
in a proportion of 1:1, then mix it with water to form a paste of the consistency
of peanut butter. Maurizio,USA,
|
| Q 2463: I am thinking of having
honed granite for a kitchen countertop. I assume that a honed finish
is more porous than a polished one but does that preclude its use for
kitchens, i.e. can it be successfully sealed and not require resealing too
often? The stones I am thinking of are verde tropical, giallo napoleone
and azul bahia. Are any of these better candidates than others. Thank you
for any help. Mary. Aug 10, Contact |
| R1: Dear
Mary: A hone-finished "granite: slab is only slightly more absorbent than
its polished counterpart, if any. The rate of absorbency of "granites" varies
greatly from one type to another, accordingly with the type of stone they
actually are. A good rule of thumb (with a few exceptions) is that dark
colored "granites" are denser than light colored ones, therefore, when polished,
dark colored "granites" are, most of the time, a better shoice as material
for a kitchen countertop. On the other hand, dark colored "granite" are
not advisable in their hone-finished version, because they will show all
sorts of surface stains, against which no impregnator for stone will be
able to do anything (impregnators only help prevent staining agents from
going IN the stone, not certainly to sit ON it!). So, I guess it's a tough
call! Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link
to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about
selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you
with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side
bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! Maurizio, USA,
|
| Q 2462: It just frustrates
me to no end that you allow retail questions here. All that this can do
is to cause several vendors waste time sending samples to retail end users
and fighting against each other by devaluating the price to get the basically
one time and very low profit sale. It also is an insult to the vendor
whom may have serviced the would be customer at their location - wasting
time and energy over a 70 s/f tile sale - what a waste.....- respectfully,
David, Aug 10, Reply |
R2:
We are believers in the Web and thoroughly research the implications of
any family decision (when possible). We quickly determined, from your site,
that there is no "best" in countertop material. Unlike most other consumer
materials or services, the subjective quality of the purchased product is
not a direct function of the dollars expended.
Just reading the forums on your site describing the tragedies experienced
by consumers who have invested the cost of a new car in their countertop
only to be disappointed has been an eye opener.
Each type of countertop material has advantages and disadvantages and each
consumer must weigh these against his own needs and desires.
Natural stone material (in my opinion!) is the most visually appealing and
it can take heat. It is also near the top in cost. But, even if it's affordable
there may be many problems associated with finding the right look, the right
stone, the right fabricator, the right installer and the right care and
maintenance procedures.
Laminated countertops, on the other hand, haven't the visual appeal of stone
but their low cost and easy installation allows for frequent, uncomplicated
changing to a new (and different) appearance.
Solid surface and engineered stone don't have the look of natural stone
but should be stain resistant.
We looked at "granite" samples at Lowes & Home Depot but were unable
to get test samples. We visited two local fabricators. One was too busy
to give us any time or samples the other had a "granite" we liked and provided
a sample for testing.
Our process left us with a decision to buy granite if we could find a color
and pattern that we liked in a stone that's stain and etch resistant. The
color and pattern of the Yellow Cabassa was right for us. No mention of
it in your columns, forums or stone lists make us hesitate. If we can't
verify it's performance, we will probably reconsider granite and go with
Silestone Amarillo Palmira. By the way, the Silestone quote is roughly 20%
higher than the "granite" quote. We wouldn't go to Silestone to save on
initial cost. Hope that gives you some perspective. Denis, USA. |
| R1:
Dear David: Just in case you didn't know, they call it "Free Market Ecomony".
If you don't like it, you should move to Cuba. To the best of my knowledge
it's the only country left that still has a true communist regime! Maurizio,
USA, |
| Q 2461: Are there other
name for Raja Lavender, Giallo Beach, Kashmir gold, Juprano. Thanks,
Topazio, Aug 10, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Topazio: Who cares about other names?! There are probably a couple of dozens,
anyway! Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link
to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about
selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you
with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side
bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2460: I am glad to find your
site, I am at my wits end. Not altogether optimistic after reading your
assessment of Kashmir white granite (not really granite at all??) but here
is my specific question: I have the Kashmir white granite installed as
countertop. Apparently it was never sealed (not necessary according to the
builder). If you leave anything wet on it, it absorbs and leaves a stain,
which eventually disappears (but not quite).
Worse, though, the top layer seems to be peeling off somehow and an underlying
layer of raw, kind of shiny stone is starting to show up as streaks. As
time goes on these streaks get bigger and shinier until the original surface
is starting to get in the minority. From a distance it just looks streaky.
This is happening even on the area of the countertop which gets little if
any water on it. I have the balance of the granite around my fireplace which
still looks pretty much normal. Both the homebuilder and the manufacturer
tell me these are just "imperfections" inherent in the stone. Everyone else
in the neighborhood has dark
countertops so I can't tell if they are having the same problem. Should
it have been sealed?? and how can I determine if this is a defect or an
"imperfection".
If there is anyone in northern/southern Ontario who has any ideas, I am
seriously considering replacing this countertop. It would be ideal if I
could have ammunition from an independent expert to get a refund from the
builder. Thanks very much. Margie, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Aug 10, Reply |
| R2:
I have processed this stone
many times with no major complaints. Is it possible that you might have
a coat of paint from your cabinets. Try cleaning the stone with acetone
and see if that solves the problem good luck,Maurizio, USA,
|
R1:
Dear Margie: Since you're reporting that your neighbors have dark "granite"
countertops,
chances are that they probably won't have any problem. Your Orthogneiss
(that's what "White Cashmere" is -- some sort of metamorphic sandstone)
is a total sponge, and only a few sealers could have done something -- if
well applied -- to minimize the problems related to the absorbency rate
of that stone.
That said, it's apparent from what you're reporting that both your builder
and fabricator are less than cooperative. At this point, all things considered,
unless you want to take them to court, you have to weigh the importance
that you give to your mental health, opposed to all the aggravations you'd
have by A) keeping your "granite" as is, or B) go through the frustrations
and aggravation of a law suit. Then you draw your own conclusions. If you
decide to replace your countertop, I then suggest you ...
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my
column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting
a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you with your
decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and
click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2459: I am building a home
and interested in counters made of Jerusalem limestone as well as tiles.
Please send me any information about cost, upkeep, durability, suppliers
etc. Many thanks, Susan, Aug 10, Reply |
R1: Dear
Susan: Suppliers? I don't even know where you live! Cost? I don't buy and
sell stone. Upkeep? No such a thing: nobody can upkeep Jerusalem stone installed
on a kitchen countertop!
Don't bother reading my "Dos and Don'ts" at the end of this page's side
bar: they wouldn't do you any good. Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2458: I tried the lemon
test on a sample called "Yellow Cabassa" (Giallo Cabaca). I found that
the polished (and, possibly, sealed/impregnated) side passed with flying
colors....no visible change in the surface after 10 minutes. Since I
had told the fabricator why I wanted the sample he may have given me a sealed
scrap. The rough side of the sample instantly absorbed the lemon juice and
left a dark stain which appears to be permanent.
Does a sealed surface distort the results of the lemon test? Is it reasonable
to test the
unpolished surface? Lastly, is Yellow Cabassa a granite?
I found this forum to be highly entertaining as well as informative. I greatly
appreciate your
efforts. Denis, Aug 10, Reply |
R1:
Dear Denis: The fact that the rough side absorbed the lemon juice almost
instantly doesn't mean much; with a few exceptions, all "granites" will
react like that. The test must be performed on the polished side only. Of
course, if it's sealed properly and with the right sealer, the lemon juice
test will pass. But that's all right: it would mean that the absorbency
of that stone can be easily and satisfactorily controlled, that your fabricator
has the right sealer and knows how to use it. Go for it!
I don't know much about this "Yellow Cabassa", but I highly doubt it's a
true granite. True geological granite is only whitish, of light gray, or
pinkish. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side
bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2457: We, wife & self,
are having Blue Vizag stone put in to replace our kitchen counter tops.
1. Is it granite?
2. Is it good for counter tops?
3. I looked through all of the stone album and did not find it listed, so
what country is it quarried in? This is what she liked and I like it also.
The stone is to ordered Monday, so thanks for any advise. Jim, Aug 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: I wish I had the answer to that! Never heard of that stuff! But
...Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to
my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about
selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you
with your decision. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side
bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2456: I am interested
in knowing the stone materials more. I often the names of various kinds
of stone materials in English, but I wonder how to express their names in
Chinese, as I am from China. I mean how to translate their names from English
to Chinese. HX, Aug 9, Reply |
R1:
Dear HX: I'm Italian, how can you expect me to help you translating English
names in
Chinese!:-) Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2455: What is the best
tool to use for installation.....? Thanks. Donna, Aug 9, Reply |
| R2: Get
a professional Regards, Adriana, USA, |
| R1:
Dear Donna: In a nutshell: a professional!! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2454: About two months ago
we finished our pool in San Antonio. The flagstone around the perimeter
and patio is flaking off the top side of the stone. While it is not
real bad, it is noticeable and I am a little concerned how it will look
in a year or two. Additionally, a few stones are developing a rough - almost
- bubbled look - on the top side.
Our pool contractor tells us that some flagstone just does that more than
others. Should we accept his answer or possible ask him to replace the stone?
We picked a lighter color and did so from a sample of the flagstone that
the pool contractor brought around. We had the option to go to the retailer
and select the pallets of stone ourselves and asked the contractor if there
was any real advantage to do so. He told us the stone guy knew what he was
doing and would select good material.
I was a little surprised to see the stone delivered loose by the mason rather
than on pallets. At the time that struck me as odd and I have to admit that
it makes me somewhat suspicious as to the quality of stone we may have received.
Are there such a thing as "seconds" or lesser quality of stones? The contractor
was the friend of a friend so we may have placed more trust in him than
we should have. I a enclose a picture (click
here) Thanks, Rod, Aug 9, Reply |
| R2:
Rod, you do not mention the type of stone,
(ie. sandstone, limestone, Quartzite or what) Some stones are better suited
for your purpose than others, If it is sandstone, the problem will probably
continue and get worse as time goes on. The same could be true if the stone
is one of those thin bedded hill country limestones. When you look at the
edge of the stone, does it appear to be monolithic, or does it look like
a bunch of micro laminates? I'm not too far from San Antonio, and would
be willing to come down there and really eyeball your situation. JVC, USA |
R1:
Dear Rod: First off, you have to determine what kind of stone you have.
Flagstone is
NOT a type of stone. It's rather a general definition of a loose shape of
stone, but the stone itself could be just about anything, from bluestone,
to slate (and dozens of DIFFERENT types among them), to sandstone, to limestone,
etc. Maurizio, USA, |
| I asked about
curing the flaking coping and patio around my pool (Q2454). JVC and Maurizio
asked what kind of stone it is. I have been told that it is Dryden Limestone
from Dryden, Texas. It does appear to have micro layers. It flakes off in
thin pieces from the size of a dime to pieces 1 1/2 square inches or so.
The smaller chips get very soft when they hit the pool. Rod |
| Q 2453: I had polished marble
installed in the bathrooms and unfortunately, the installers were less than
competent. They left grout haze all over. I read that you have a
product. How much and how do I get it? Also how should I maintain marble
(white) in the showers and on the floor. Thanks in advance. Rebecca, Aug
9, Reply |
R1:
Dear Rebecca: Get in touch with me at: info@findstone.com and i'll help
you out with your grout haze problem.
For routine maintenance after that, you can get my free maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of
this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio,
USA, |
| Q 2452: After I install
marble what is the best way to keep it shiny? Miriam, Aug 9, Reply |
R1:
Dear Miriam: If your marble has been installed on a floor, the rule number
one to follow
if to NEVER WALK ON IT! :-)
As a second best option, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this
page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA,
|
Q 2451: I have Uba Tuba
in my new kitchen (my house is not yet a year old). Within a day or
two of moving in, I noticed a section of the granite, roughly about
6 or 7 inches around, that looked milky compared the the rest of the shiny
countertop. The installer is saying that I must have put something on
it to make that mark, but I believe it was there when we moved in. The only
thing I've put on it is WSP 2000 Water Stain Protector made by Alpha Advantage--something
he gave me after I pointed it out to him. It didn't go away. He even tried
something else and it did not go away. Any ideas on what it might be? Thanks,
Sue, Aug 9, Reply. |
R1:
Dear Sue: For starters, Uba Tuba doesn't need any "Water Stain Protector",
or any other protector, for that matter. I don't know exactly what happen
to your stone, but I do know that it shouldn't have happened. I suspect
that the fabricator -- thinking that Uba Tuba is granite -- applied a stone
sealer to it. Try to find that out. If that's the case, then that could
be the cause of the "milky" look of that particular section of your countertop.
Have the sealer totally removed with a paint stripper based on Methylene
Chloride, and enjoy your worry-free Uba Tuba in it natural state for the
rest of your natural life!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2450: Could you please give
me the best advise on getting bath oil out of a marble bathroom counter?
Regards, Sonya, Canada, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sonya: Absolutely! Poultice it out using a mix of talc powder (baby
powder) and acetone. Should you need more details about poulticing,
send me an e-mail at: info@findstone.com.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did!
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2449: My marble tile is currently
a variegated purple. Is there any way to dye it i.e., change the color
without ripping it up and reinstalling another floor? Soloski, Aug 8,
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Soloski: Please, tell me that you're joking!! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2448: I live in Las Vegas,
where the air is dry and temperatures can reach over 110 degrees Fahrenheit
throughout the summer months. We are tiling our patio and were thinking
of going with slate. A salesman told us that slate is an inferior product
to porcelain and he would only recommend porcelain for our outdoor use.
I prefer the look of slate to the porcelain tiles I have seen. But can the
slate survive the Las Vegas summers? And is there so much maintenance on
it that we will regret tiling a large area with it?
-- SBS, Aug 8, Reply |
Q 2447: Where do the stone
types PEN GREEN and RISING SUN come from. Are these common names or
are there other names known. Thanks in advance. Nevil, Netherlands,
Aug 8, Reply |
Q 2446: I saw your web page
filled with great tile advice! Maybe you can advise me as well. I just had
about 1,000 sq. ft. of 24" filled & honed travertine installed over
concrete floors. The contractor used Thinset and directly applied the tiles
to the concrete except in the areas where cracks pre-existed in the concrete
base. During the job I noticed that many of the tiles were very hollow
sounding. They assured me that would go away after the grout was filled
in. It did not go away. The job is done now and probably 50% or more of
the tiles sound hollow in places when tapping or even walking on them. That
doesn't seem right to me. Should I be concerned? If so, is there any other
way to fix it other than ripping it up
and re-doing it? Please help! Thanks in advance for your assistance! Herbert,
Aug 8, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Herbert: Yes, you should be concerned, and big time, too! (The hollow
sound is going to go away after grouting, huh! ... Wow!). Considering the
extensiveness of the damage, I believe that ripping the whole thing out
and start all over is the only sensible thing to do. You can get my free
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting
the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll
be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2445: What is the max
overhang for 1 1/4" granite, Ubatuba, for a peninsula? 2. How do you
support over 11"? What materials do you use to support it? 3. How do I avoid
cracks? 3. Do you recommend silicone or liquid nails to glue it down? Thanks
and have a great day!! Elizabeth. Aug 8, Reply |
R1: Dear
Elizabeth: On the 3 cm. thickness, the max. overhand without support is
11". Over that you have to support it with either metal or wood braces.
I never use liquid nail, I only use silicone.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2444: I have just removed
the carpet in my kitchen to find a sandstone flagged floor beneath which
is dirty. What would you suggest to clean it up and restore it to its
natural beauty and how could I preserve it from being stained and damaged
in future. Darren, Aug 8, Reply |
R1:
Dear Darren: Get hold of a local stone restoration company and have them
assess your
situation. Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2443: We have just installed
a 18" x 18" shell stone throughout our entire house. It appears some
slight occasional edging has popped up here and there. The installer
is going to put a light sander to it (with a diamond point?) to flatten
the edges out. He claims the uneveness is unavoidable and a direct result
from the inconsistency in the way the stone is cut.
#1. Does the installer know what he is talking about or is he correcting
a problem he caused?
#2. Is it o.k. to grind them down?
#3. What is the best way to seal the shellstone tiles? We bought a water
based sealer made for natural stone and terrazo? How about waxing?
#4. How about keeping them clean?
#5. In our bathroom we are putting a natural stone called Rustica (12" x
12") on the walls, including inside the shower stall. The wall is dry wall
which has been painted. What is the best way to insure they are installed
properly? Adam, Aug 8, Reply |
Q 2442: We are in the process
of finishing a new kitchen. Briefly, we ordered a slate
countertop (1.5" thick, 5 pieces, about 60 SF) from a company that does
not install, and now our GC is getting nervous about installing it.
Can anyone offer advice as to good epoxy (we have one joint between 2 pieces),
best installation technique, or other information we could use to get
the job done?
Our contractor is ultra-cautious, and is worried he will break the slate
where the undermount sink goes. I haven't been able to find an installer,
because they won't install something they haven't done the template for
themselves, or provided themselves. Help!!! Reiley, Aug 8, Reply |
R1:
Dear Reiley: What do you expect anybody to tell you from here?! Get a local
pro, if you
can find one, that's all! The only thing I feel like saying is that I'm
sorry about your selection of slate as a material for a kitchen countertop.
I hope you get a lot of take-outs! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2441: Need advice on pressure
washing bricks. Jim, Aug 8, Reply |
Q 2440: I have been told
that Caesar Stone is better than Corian and Kerrock even better than both
of those. All of these products and more, such as Silas Stone are available
here in California.
Is it true that the Kerrock manufacturing using agitation to settle the
material and increase density and baking the acrylic compound really makes
it more durable and impervious to stains as compared to other man-made solid
surfaces? Also, is there a problem with Caesar Stone due to the minute water
content of the quartz crystals used that may cause expansion and can you
give me comparisons of materials & manufacturing processes for these
products that would help me in choosing the most durable surface for the
price? Thanks, Ron, Aug 8, Reply |
R1: Dear
Ron: I believe I know a thing or two about about natural stone. About engineered
stone I know much less than that, and so about plastic (solid surfaces).
Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2439: I
love your web site! I just discovered it and it covers all kinds of things
pertinent to my house. I have a "granite" question. I have
Uba Tuba slab counter tops in my kitchen, with Uba Tuba tile back splash.
I always thought this was true granite, but from what your web site says,
it is in fact something else. What is it called? I never sealed it myself
... interviewed a bunch of people and couldn't find someone I felt comfortable
with ... then got lazy! I actually bought some Impregnator ... never used
it either! However, I bought a product called StoneTech Professional Revitalizer.
I use it once or twice a week. (I was using Windex, as recommended by the
contractor, and I didn't like the results). This product claims to clean
and protect. I spray it on, wipe with a damp cloth and then dry it with
a towel. It looks great, although sometimes leaves a little film which shows
fingerprints. All in all, I have been fairly happy with it, but after reading
your web site, I was wondering if I using a good product? Is there another
product you recommend specifically for Uba Tuba.
Also, I have Creme Marfil floors, which connects to my hardwood floors.
The first month in my house, the cleaning service splashed vinegar/water
they were using to clean my hard wood floors on my marble floors. Disaster!
So, I fired the cleaning company, and now use a product which claims
to be good for both hard wood and marble. It is called Quick n Brite. Any
ideas if I am using a good product? I want to find something to clean
both surfaces, so that I don't have this problem again. Kay, Aug 8, Reply |
| R3:
Dear Kay: Sorry for the "confusion"
Not all "granites" need to be treated the same way when it comes
to sealing them, i.e.: you do NOT want to seal Ubatuba. When it comes to
daily cleaning, there's no difference. I cannot comment on the particular
product you mention, since I never tested it. I do know that StoneTech is
a company with a good reputation, however. Whether you want to try our MB-5
out or not is entirely up to you. Maurizio Bertoli, USA, |
| R2:
Mrs. Baer, First I am sorry for the confusion raised by the answers you
have seen to similar questions in the past. Though everything you say is
true I think I can clear this up quickly. Ubatuba is a great stone for the
kitchen. It is not absorptive and does not require an impregnator. Products
by Stone tech and MBstone for this purpose are an unnecessary expense (impregnators).
Additionally if a stone does not absorb very much the impregnators applied
to them are many times left on the top of the stone. The impregnators can
over time etch and make the counter look oily or dirty. The product from
Stonetech known as Revitalizer is a good product. It however states that
it has a small amount of impregnator contained in its formulation. Therefore,
I would recommend any other neutral cleaner specified for stone. Many of
these products are able to be purchased through home improvement stores
in the USA and via the internet all over the world. Again I am sorry for
the confusion. Regards, Steven |
R1:
Dear Kay: Uba Tuba is a labradorite-based stone from Brazil. You bought
an impregnator, but you don't want to use it on your stone. Get your money
back, if you can.
For all the rest, you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left
side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2438: I thoroughly enjoyed
reading all the commentaries in the Advice Wanted section on findstone.com.
I was hoping that I could ask some advice on stone restoration. I have been
a manager, fabricator, and waterjet operator for a large company for 6 years.
Lately, I have started doing restoration sidejobs around my neighborhood,
mainly Carrara steps, tub decks, and the like. I use only true honing and
polishing techniques. I feel that I have firm grasp on the art of restoration,
but, the problem is that because I work mainly in the fabrication sector,
I have no idea what to charge. I was hoping that perhaps you could give
me a ballpark range on what to charge per sqft on a basic restoration of
a basic stone (excluding serious repairs). I have been charging $15-$20
a sqft- am I ripping people off or am I ripping myself off? Please
help! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, J. Aug 7, Reply |
| R4:
Sir: This is what I do. Learn about how long
it takes to do a task example an average step. Goal let say $100.00 per
hour and you have 8 steps. Say each step takes a half hr. to do. Step refinishing:
$100.00 X 4 hrs.= $ 400.00 Then these I add for just a little Drive time,
LiL off on time calculation, set up time: misc. exsp.: $75.00 That is done
on MY bid sheet. The proposal just will say something like: Step refinishing
, including small repairs. $ 475.00 Floor restoration for marble and limestones
pricing usually runs .35 per step or grit to & 1.00 per cut or step per
sqft I hope this helps, Randy, USA |
| R3:
My name is Dass from Singapore.
I'm a stone restore by profession and doing stone restoration, stain removal,
stone forensic and human error investigation for the past 8 years. I'm able
to give an inside of it, if you can tell me from which country you are operating
from. Dass, singapore, |
| R2: Dear
J.: I charge $3.5 (that's three point five) per square foot and I am the
most expensive guy in the most expensive area of the country! I can do easy
500 square feet a day, three cuts and polish) If you can fetch that kind
of money without knowing what you're doing (it's just a logical assumption,
no offense meant), let me know where you live and I'll move there right
away! Maurizio, USA, |
| R1: To
whom it may concern, I have been in the Protection & Restoration on
site service and product formulation business now for 27 years. If you are
getting $ 15-20.00 sq. ft for Restoration, I would say excellent for you!!
Kim, USA. |
Q 2437: Can anyone give me
information as to the source and physical characteristics of
"Penwater" granite? Aug 7, Reply |
| Q 2436: I have a question about
Travertine. I am planning to install a pool in my backyard. My landscape
designer told me that he has been using Travertine as a patio decking and
pool surround with magnificent results. I'm sure it looks great after completion,
but I question the maintenance and durability of using Travertine. I have
3 kids and don't want to "worry" about my patio staining or scratching.
Can you tell me whether or not you would recommend Travertine for a
patio? Will it hold up over time without significant maintenance? How
would it compare to using brick, slate, or flagstone? Are some natural stones
easier to maintain, with less staining problems? Will some retain their
look longer? Will some do better under water conditions? I've enjoyed reading
the advice on your web site. Thank you! KB, Aug 7, Reply |
R1:
Dear KB: I'm wondering what the ancient Romans were thinking when they built
the Coliseum some 2,500 years ago!...
"...Hmmm, will travertine hold up over time? What do we have to do to
maintain it? What kind of sealer should we use, so that it won't get stained
with the blood of the gladiators?"
Even if the Coliseum it's kinda beat up after all this time, it looks like
the ancient Romans did find the answers to the questions above. Too bad
they didn't put them in writing! :-) Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2435: We have a slate
shower, it is approx. 5 1/2 years old and it is discolouring quite a bit.
We were told that it was sealed with the proper sealer and I believe
them as I remember the strong odour that it caused. However, many slate
tiles are now obviously being affected by the water and are
discolouring. If it is a natural stone than I am really hoping that something
can return it to its natural colour and then we can reseal it with perhaps
a stronger sealer. Do you have any suggestions for cleaning it and also
what kind of sealer that should be used? Thank you, Rose, Aug 7, Reply |
R1: Dear
Rose: You're not from the US, are you!
Many factors may be involved. The most immediate -- hopefully -- is that
you only have an accumulation of soap film on the lower rows of tiles in
your shower enclosure. Rub your finger tips on some of the tiles and see
if they get soiled with a whitish, waxy film? If that's the case, then all
you have to do is to use a proper stone cleaner formulated to remove soap
scum.
Another case scenario could be that some of the grout or caulking are missing.
That would be bad news, alas. If that's the case, water would have found
its way behind the tiles and -- if the slate is a porous one -- the moisture
has migrated through the core of the stone onto its surface, while chemically
reacting with the stone's makeup, and bleeding on the surface an inorganic
salt dubbed "efflorescence". In a case like that, more often than not the
only possible solution is to remove the damaged tiles and start all over
again.
As you can see, in the whole picture the sealer has nothing to do with anything.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2434: We have a new granite
countertop. There is a small stain from an over-ripe tomato.
Can this stain be lightened or removed? Neil, Aug 7, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Neil: Yes, it can be removed by poulticing it with talc powder (baby powder)
and Hydrogen Peroxide 30/40 volume (salon-grade, clear). For more details
on poulticing, get directly in touch with me for free assistance: info@findstone.com.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2433: We are trying to
decide between slate or concrete flooring. The questions we have are.....How
durable is slate? Durable enough to handle heavy duty commercial traffic?
How about the price? Next, I've seen concrete that has been "pressed" with
a design making it look like pieces of stone.....is this a more realistic
choice? We don't have huge amounts of money to spend, and again, it needs
to be VERY durable. Stephanie, Aug 7, Reply |
| R2:
Dear Stephanie, we do have
some kinds of limestone that are very compact with an absorbtion percentage
of only 0,97% that in a commercial center are very suitable and if well
installed the life is very long, about 200 or 300 years or more! We do provide
also specialized people to install the material if you want. Also the price
is very affordable and if you want more information, let me know. With best
regards., Alessandro, Italy |
| R1:
Dear Stephanie: Would you ever put a chalk-board on a heavy-traffic floor?
There's your answer about the slate idea. The pressed concrete sounds like
a much better choice for your requirements, but I don't know much about
it. Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2432: Trying to find some
advice on how to remove silicone from a granite bar top, it's black
with a sort of green/silver swirl, silicone was spilled on the top and wiped
off but still there is a hazy section where it was wiped, the bar is still
under construction and has not been sealed. thank you for any help you can
offer. Craig, Aug 7, Reply |
R1:
Dear Craig: If the silicone is cured, the only way to remove it is to use
a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride (nasty job!). Keep in mind
that it will remove the sealer as well; therefore, the stone will need to
be sealed again (if it needed to be sealed in the first place, that is.)
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2431: I am writing from London,
England. I am looking for a black stone from Madras, which would be suitable
for flooring. Do you know if this is still obtainable anywhere? Agnus,
UK, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Agnus: I didn't know you had AOL in England! Many thanks for your lovely
words. Yes, I remember writing something about the black stone from Madras
as a flooring material, and I still confirm that. I have no idea about its
availability, especially in the UK, however. But, hey, this is what Findstone.com
does for a living: Find Stones!! For a fee, alas! :-)
I strongly urge you to inquire with them, because I know as a fact that
they are quite familiar with that particular stone. About my consultation
services, I've been offering them as far away as China, India, Nigeria,
South Korea, etc. Baltimore is only a 3 hours drive from my office. Virtually
around the corner! I'll be glad to help. For a fee, alas! :-) Maurizio,
USA, |
Q 2430: I have considered using
polished/filled travertines for my entrance foyer, hallways, and 1st floor
bathroom. These areas of the house will not have as much foot traffic as
the family room and kitchen (laminate flooring). There are only 4 of us
in the house and are usually barefoot or wear indoor
slippers. Should I be concerned about maintaining polished travertine?
What are the disadvantages (if any) of polished versus honed? I
don't want my hallways to end up dull in the middle and polished at the
sides after years of foot traffic. I plan to seal it according to recommendations
and use only water or stone cleaning solvents. I want to make sure I am
making the right choice by choosing polished travertines. Thanks in
advance. Ben, Aug 7, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ben: There's nothing wrong with polished travertine in rooms like the
one you've
listed, in relation to your family situation and habits. But nothing is
for ever! I'd be lying to you if I'd try to make you believe that with the
right procedures and products your floor will stay unscathed for ever and
ever. Eventually, wear and tear will show and the floor will need to be
refinished.
After all, even hardwood floors go through that type of routine! Anyway,
by using common sense (that I can see that you already have) and by following
solid maintenance guidelines (which do NOT include sealing. It's totally
useless with polished travertine. Contrary to popular misconception, it's
an extremely dense stone and staining is not a factor. If you don't believe
me, spill a few drops of water on a sample tile and see if it will ever
be absorbed. Not even minimally, no matter how long you let it sit on it!)
you should be able to enjoy your floor for many years, before it will need
mechanical intervention.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2429: I have a marble
floor and decided to clean the grout. I used Kaboom, which I bought
off TV and it says to clean grout. It did a fantastic job on the grout,
however, caused a dulling look on the marble. It will not go away. Can I
use anything to make it shiny again or did I screw up and should I call
a professional? I am hosting a party in several days and it looks awful.
Is there a temporary fix I can do if the best way is to call a professional
for a permanent fix. Thanks, Amy, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Amy:
KABOOM!!!
You did it all right!! Call a pro. Toward the end of this page's left side
bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it,
and look for the article about selecting a good stone refinishing contractor.
That should help. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side
bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation.
You do want to treasure those! and ... no more KABOOM!! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2428: A couple of questions:
We just had installed a phillipino shellstone, 18" by 18". There is
lippage of about 1/16" here and there. I would say at least one part of
every tile has some edge sticking up. He started by resurfacing the
floor with cement. Then he used a multi-purpose white thinset. the bed being
about 1/2 inch or more, sinking the tiles into that. Only half has been
done so far. The tiles have little edges sticking up on almost on every
tile. I think they are less than 1/16" thick. He claims it is caused by
the irregularity of the tiles. I think it may be him. He is going to grind
down the edges he said with a grinder.
#1. Is it the irregularity of the stone tiles (as our tile layer is claiming)
or is it the layer himself? He is going to try grinding the edges down with
a small grinder. Is this done?
#2. How would you recommend sealing these tiles to minimize staining? We
also have them in the kitchen.
#3. We are also putting a different shellstone called Rustico on our bathroom
walls. What would be the best way of insuring that they are done well? The
wall is dry wall.
We are in the Bahamas so it is hard to get expert opinions here. I'm extremely
nervous about keeping the guy on the job. Thanx, Adam, Aug 6, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Adam: It's hard to get expert opinion everywhere, it seems! Your installer
may be right: shell stone is never uniform in thickness. However,
if he's going to grind the floor after words, there should be no problems.
I don't know much about shell stone, therefore I won't venture a guess about
what to seal it with. Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2427: We are laying out marble
tiles in our new bathroom. Everything looks pretty good but the grout
is not the right color. We have only grouted a few tiles. How would
I removed the grout and prepare the joint for regrouting? Also one of the
tile is scratched and has lost its shine. Is there any
product I can use to restore it or should I just replace it (it has not
yet been grouted.) Thanks for your input. Btw,
great site...I finally feel I am not alone dealing with these problems..Sylvie,
Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sylvie: A DIYer, huh! Nothing wrong with that, mind you, it's just
that you can't repair your scratched and dull tile, so you'll have to replace
it. Console yourself, though: most professional installers don't know how
to refinish marble, either!
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2426: Exterior slate install:
Half inch 100% coverage/ type S mortar bed. Question is ... seal or
not to seal... before install takes place or after tile is set in mortar
bed ? thx. Earthwalk, Aug 6, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Earthwalk: It all depends from the slate. Domestic (from New England) and
Italian slate don't need any sealing (they use them for roofing!). Some
other slates will. Spill some water on a sample and see if it gets absorbed,
then decide, If it needs to be sealed, seal at least two weeks after installation.
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2425: I have a white
marble vanity top, corronado gold, that keeps getting more rings and water
spots every day. I have a feeling I should never have been sold
this for a bathroom vanity. Do I need to buff it mechanically, or seal it
again, or what? Please help. It is less than 2 years old and looks horrible.
My contractor won't return my calls. Shouldn't marble last longer than this?
Saks, Aug 6, Reply |
R1: Dear
Saks: Yes, it should last longer than this, if you follow some sound practices
that, obviously your contractor "forgot" to give you! No stone sealer would
ever solve your problem, not even for the future (nothing but common sense
can prevent etching).
You need a professional stone refinisher, now, to take care of your problem.
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my
column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting
a good stone restoration contractor. That should help. Once back on this
page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for
maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure those!
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2424: We have recently purchased
a two year old house. Part of the house has coloured (gold-taupe) polished
concrete tile floors. They are actually very nice. I have been told
that the pigment is put in during the pouring process. I think because of
the age of the floors it is probably time to reseal them. Can any one
tell me how to do this and if there is any specific care for this type of
floor? Many thanks. Barbara, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Barbara: What the heck to I know about concrete?!
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2423: I have recently discovered
your site..and just in time! My partner and I have been asked to clean
a large marble floor in the foyer of a sorority house. We first cleaned
it, with paint thinner to remove another contractors mistake. Upon removing
it, we washed the floor with hot /soapy (mild detergent) water. And we were
told by the "house Mom" that they had always used "Mop & Glow" on these
particular floors. Therefore...not know any better ...we did as we were
told! And therein lies the problem. What do we do now??? They would like
the floors to shine. What can we apply, or do to correct the current problem.
Respectfully yours, Misty, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Respectfully Misty: You're into something you know nothing about! Mop
& Glow, huh! Some marble maintenance, all right!
That floor needs to be thoroughly (I do mean THOROUGHLY) stripped, rehoned
and repolished by a professional stone refinisher, then maintained according
to specific guidelines for high traffic marble floor that I'll be glad to
supply to you for free by the asking: info@findstone.com
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my
column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting
a good stone restoration contractor. That should help. Maurizio, USA, |
Maurizio, Thanks
for the info.! Yes, you are correct...we are clueless! We are a repair/maintenance
contractors; no marble floor specialist. What professional product would
you recommend. We have recently discovered a janitorial supply house in
our DFW area, that carries many marble care products...so hopefully we could
acquire your suggestions.
Thanks again, Misty |
Q 2422: I had a Baltic
Brown Granite Counter installed in a kitchen. I noticed the end
of the peninsula was not touching the cabinet. I called for a repair.
The installer came and put epoxy on the edge between the counter and
the cabinet and held it down until it stuck. Was this repaired properly
or am I going to have problems later? One edge is still not touching the
cabinet. If it is not properly repaired how should it be done? Sal,
Aug 6, Reply |
R2:
Sal, I don't have the answer to your question but I have a question if you
don't mind. Did you have your Baltic Brown sealed? I've been told it's one
of the "granites" you would normally NOT seal but it's been suggested to
me, by this list, TO seal it. Lemon does not etch it. Water/lemon juice
sits on top and does not appear to sink in. The granite DOES however turn
dark when wet (as most all materials do) and then dries to it's original
color.
I LOVE the colors in this piece of rock and can't wait to have it installed!
I've gone with a very "Tuscan" look in the kitchen :) Monica, USA. |
R1: Dear
Sal: No, it was not repaired properly by a long shot!! To eliminate a gap
one has
to fill it (with wood shims or something), not to bend the stone down to
meet the cabinet! Now you have a stress point that may cause your stone
to crack. Have your "Michelangelo" come back and demand them to rectify
the problem properly. (You can print this out and make them read it, if
you wish.) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side
bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2421: My ferret ("Gracie")
urinated on my granite floor tile. It left a nasty stain. I tried to
lift the stain using vinegar, but it seemed to lighten the stain somewhat,
but the darken the stone around it. What should I do? Thanks in advance,
Christine, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Christine: You have to poultice the stain out using a mix of talc powder
(baby powder) and Hydrogen Peroxide salon-grade, clear (30-40 volume). To
know more about poulticing techniques, ask for my free advice by e-mail
at: info@findstone.com.
You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure
them; you'll be glad you did! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2420: I need to find
a company that is accepting applications for a stone fabricator. Anyone
have any sources? Desiree, Aug 6, Reply |
| Q 2419: I hope you can help
me. We have a home that was built in 1925. We have a total of 6 fireplaces
throughout the house. The problem is that most of the fireplaces (4
out of the 6) all have cracks on the floor of the fireplace. The bottom
of the fireplace seems to be concrete painted black. Although, we are not
sure what the material is that is used. Can you tell me how I can patch
the cracks? I do not wish to tear the whole thing out and I'm sure the house
is settled considering the home is 77 years old. Kendra, Aug 6, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kendra: All I can tell you is to get hold of a professional stone mason.
Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2418: Can a cultured marble
shower enclosure be painted? Karen, Aug 6, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: At this site we don't know anything about plastic (cultured
marble), or about paint. Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2417: We have a trachite
stone benchtop that was installed in our kitchen over a year ago and
although we had it professionally sealed straight after it was installed
but have had continuous problems with the stone marking and etching from
normal day to day use. Many attempts by the professional sealer to rectify
the problem have failed. The supplier of the stone denies any responsibility
so the matter is in the hands of the Dpt of Fair Trading. I have been instructed
by them to get a report from an inbiased expert stating that either the
stone can not be sealed to prevent etching and marking because of the nature
of the stone OR the stone can be sealed effectively for up to a period of
12 months when it would need to be resealed, and the sealant that will do
that is.......? If you can help with this I can provide you with a sample
of the stone.
We chose that particular stone because we assured by the supplier that although
it is a natural product, unlike limestone or marble, it wouldn't mark if
it was sealed professionally. And we really liked the appearance but would
rather have had laminate that go through all this drama! I look forward
to hearing from you. Sharyn, Aug 6, Reply |
R2:
Dear Sharyn: So, now we have trachyte, too!
Its a extrusive igneous rock whose essential components are sanidine, plagioclase
(andesine-labradorite), biotite. I don't much about its absorbency rate,
so I won't comment on the necessity of sealing it or not. Based on its essential
components, the stone should not etch, but ... as usual, according from
the country of origin, there may be big differences due to its different
accessories. To find out if it etches, you have to run the lemon juice test
on a piece of scrap that was NOT sealed. If it does, then of course, no
sealer on the planet will ever solve the problem of etching, since sealers
only solve the problem of staining. If it doesn't etch, then it's the sealer
that's etching! A different sealer made
with a resin that's not effected by acids, should solve the problem, after
thoroughly removing the current sealer.
If you need to contact me, send me an e-mail at: info@findstone.com.
Maurizio, USA, |
| R1:
I presume that you are talking about the Bowral Trachyte (but there might
be some other trachytes out there). Usually this is a fairly dense and hard-wearing
rock unless yours contains concentrations of ankeritic carbonate. Contact
me if you want a report. Dr. Hans, Australia, |
| Dear Dr Hans,
all I know about our trachyte is that it comes from Italy [not necessarily
assuming Bowral trachyte comes from Bowral though!] If you were to do a
report for us where would I send a sample to for you to analyse and what
would you charge? Thanks for the reply, Sharyn |
Q 2416: I am purchasing a model
home that has Blue Pearl granite countertops in the
kitchen. I noticed some granite scraps in the garage and intend take
one and apply the lemon juice test before closing escrow. I would
like to know what sort imperfections to look for when I do my walk-thru.
(So far, I have found one small pit.) Also, the kitchen flooring
is broken flagstone with large, irregular areas of grout between the tiles.
Should this flooring be sealed? What is the best maintenance for
such a floor? What imperfections should I look for in the flooring
during my walk-thru. I would appreciate any and all advice.
Thank you, DeeDee, Aug 6, Reply |
| R2: Dear
DeeDee: Don't waste your time with my lemon juice test: Blue Pearl (an Anorthosite
from Norway) is as bullet-proof as they come! Forget about the little pit,
will ya! As far as the flagstone floor is concerned, the necessity of sealing
it would be only determined by the type of stone sitting on the floor (the
word flagstone means nothing). Try to spill some water on it and see if
it gets absorbed. If it does, then you seal, if it doesn't, then you don't.
I would consider sealing the grout, though. You can get my free maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the
bottom of this page's left side bar. Treasure them; you'll be glad
you did! Maurizio, USA, |
R1:
Dear double D's: You shouldn't find any problems with Blue Pearl granite
in your kitchen. It is not very absorbent and has a fairly stable mineralogy.
But because it has no quartz it is not as hard as most granites. This can
also serve to make it physically more stable than a quartz-rich granite.
If only you knew how beautiful this rock type (called larvikite) can be
under a scientific microscope! The photomicrographs that I have taken of
this and associated rock types for my clients are stunning and make great
posters. As for the pits, you will find that most are associated with dark
specks marking the location of an iron-rich mica called lepidomelane. This
is a biotite rich in both ferric and ferrous iron. Because it is much softer
than the bulk of the mineralogy it tends to be removed preferentially in
the cutting, honing and polishing procedures. Nothing to worry about and
it won't need sealing.
Dr. Hans, Australia, |
Q 2415: Our company has a limestone-mine
in his property in Iran. This limestone is completely natural and biologic
(shell-stone) which is build of between 93-97% calcium - carbonate. We are
in need of some information and consulting in the following items:
1.The price of this material and other products that involve limestone.
2. How can we come in contact with international companies who are using
limestone in some ways.
3. Our general project is to powder limestone in micronize form. We are
interested to cooperate with international companies who would like to invest
in our project. We can send you a piece of this material if you want. Payam,
Aug 6, Reply |
Q 2414: Please provide technical
specification of Grey sardo Granite, Rosy Pink Granite,
Bianco Rose marble. Thanks & best regards, ACPC, UAE. Aug 6, Reply |
Q 2413: I am hoping you can
help me with my problem! I had "Absolute Black" granite countertops
installed several months ago (according to installer, granite came
from South Africa, was polished in Italy, and then cut and edge polished
in New Hampshire). They looked beautiful upon installation, but, within
a week, showed what looked like etching (dull areas in the polished
stone) near the stove, presumably from my cleaning a spill with a scrubbing
sponge. The installer returned and applied a poultice which didn't work
(and didn't seem like the right thing to do, in my opinion). He offered
to remove the countertop section and have it repolished and reinstalled.
I declined, because of the inconvenience involved (the installation process
had taken weeks, but that's another story). Since then, the entire counter
surface is marked with small scratched and/or dull areas, water rings, and
spots, and when I clean with water or Windex, my wipe marks are apparent
on the polished surface. It looks terrible!
After reading your other posts, I wonder if it is the sealer the installer
applied (twice) to the countertops that is etching/scratching and absorbing
water spots. I would like this problem resolved, but I am hesitant
to contact the installer, as he seemed completely in the dark as to what
the problem might be, and I am afraid he might do more harm than good. Do
you know what the problem might be, and is there a solution short of removing
the countertops and repolishing them at the fabricator? Can the sealer be
removed, and would I need a professional to do it? How do I restore the
polish to the etched/scratched areas? (I have tried granite "etch repair
polish" and it shows little improvement.) Thank you in advance for your
response. Tracy, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Tracy: The vast majority of the fabricators are "trained" by the "salesmen"
ruling
the stone industry. So, they tell them: "This is granite", and they believe
it. Then they tell them: "Every granite must be sealed" and they believe
it. And so on.
Dolerite (that's what black absolute from South Africa is, certainly not
a granite) is a stone that, for the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop,
is much better than true geological granite, but sometimes -- like in your
case -- instead of being as enjoyable and problem-free as it should, it
becomes a maintenance nightmare, due to the in-depth "knowledge" about stone
that most fabricators can flaunt! Dolerite is so inherently dense that does
not need any sealer, and if you seal it anyway ... That's what you have!
And, yes, your fabricator doesn't have a clue about what they're looking
at! Even you realized that a poultice wouldn't do any good! ...Yes, the
problem is exclusively the sealer. You've got to get rid of it and live
happily ever after! I wouldn't do that myself: it's a nasty procedure that
implies the use of a strong and dangerous solvent, namely Metylene Chloride.
Since your fabricator seems so cooperative (they offered to bring that piece
back to the shop and refinish it), I would print this out, show it to them,
and demand that they strip the sealer off your beautiful Dolerite! By the
way, the suggestion they gave you about using Windex and other stuff like
that, is wrong, too! What a surprise, huh!
Toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my
column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting
a good fabrication facility (and stone). That should help you understand
further your situation. Once back on this page, go again at the end of the
side bar and click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone
installation. You do want to treasure those! Maurizio, USA, |
Q 2412: I want to upgrade my
backyard. I don't know what should I use flagstones or
bricks for entrance. I don't have much money. Which is cheaper than
other? Thank you, Nancy, Aug 6, Reply |
| R1:
Hi Nancy, The best solution for you is to
use the flagstone which is not only the cheapest but the good looking for
the backyard.Good value for money and the long lasting solution. Rakesh,
India |
Q 2411: We recently installed
a new granite counter top on an island in the kitchen. I am having a lot
of trouble with stains from fats. I did not realize that granite was
so susceptible to oil stains. It does not seem practical as a kitchen
material.
I wonder if it was not properly sealed prior to delivery and installation?
The butter or other oil does not need to be on the counter for very long
for a stain to develop. For example we just did a buffet dinner served off
of the island. In under two hours there were two stains from a little drop
of margarine that landed on the counter from someone setting the margarine
serving knife on the counter.
The first time I got a stain I cleaned as best I could and then tried to
reseal the counter top. I used tile lab surface guard penetrating sealer.
According to the directions I was supposed to wipe this on the counter top
and wait 15 minutes and then wipe dry. If there were spots where the sealer
soaked in I was supposed to repeat the process. The directions indicated
that they did not expect you would need to do this more than twice.
The first time, pretty much the whole surface absorbed the product but I
wiped off the parts that did not soak in, and then repeated the process.
The second time there was more product left standing after 15 minutes, and
I wiped off this and repeated the process since so much seemed to soak in.
I stopped after four times after the fourth time most of the area of the
counter did not soak up the product, but significant areas did soak it up.
I felt I needed to stop since the directions indicated that twice was the
expected maximum.
Also, the surface is not totally smooth there are many cracks and lines
in the surface of the counter top, that can be seen if you hold your head
down near the surface and look across the surface.
Is it possible that it was not properly sealed in the first place? How would
I tell? It seems unreasonable to expect that no oil substance come in contact
with a kitchen surface. It seems to me that you cannot expect that every
drop be wiped up immediately. Our dinner was served and we had a little
dessert then cleaned the kitchen, and so the counter was wiped up within
two hours of when the substance hit the counter. I honestly don't think
I can enjoy my counter tops if I need to worry about spills. I appreciate
any information and advice including opinions about my expectations for
the counter top. Thank you, Donahue, Aug 6, Contact |
R1:
Dear Donahue: I'm sorry to be the one to welcome you in the stone industry!
Of course, your "granite" is not a granite at all; of course, it was not
sealed properly; of course, for what you report, you'll never be able to
enjoy your countertop; of course, what you're experiencing is not fair (it's
actually a full-fledged fraud!); and finally, of course, there are several
"granites" that would have made you a happy camper instead.
To understand what I mean -- even if it's too late now -- toward the end
of this page's left side bar you will find the link to my column, ROCKING
THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article about selecting a good fabrication
facility (and stone). That will explain you everything! Once back on this
page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on my guidelines for
maintenance of residential stone installation. You do want to treasure
those, although they won't do much to make you happy!
There's always a solution, though: Get rid of your countertop and choose
a "granite" that will please you for years to come. After all, it's only
money! Weigh that against your mental health and draw your own conclusions.
Finally, you're welcome to communicate directly with me (if you feel like)
at: info@findstone.com Maurizio,
USA< |
| Q 2410: How do I clean marble
flooring with light colored grout and have it shine afterwards? Basnight,
Aug 6, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Basnight: I don't quite understand the extent of your question. Is
your marble floor nice and shiny now, or is it dull? If the latter
is the case, toward the end of this page's left side bar you will find the
link to my column, ROCKING THE BOAT. Click on it, and look for the article
about selecting a good stone refinishing contractor. That's what you'd need
to have your marble floor polished as it was when originally installed.
Once back on this page, go again at the end of the side bar and click on
my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation. You do
want to treasure those, and that's all you'd need, if your floor doesn't
need refinishing now! Maurizio, USA, |
| Q 2409: I am interested
in doing a mosaic tile covering on my laminate countertops. Is this
even possible, and if so, how would I go about it? Ajit, Aug 6, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ajit: Of course it is possible! How? ... Get a professional who knows
how to do it,
th |
