2495: Australia in general is a now a sad place for the stone game. Over the last 4-5 years major changes have occurred here and more is going to happen. Most of the "big" players have gone - sold out or gone broke. As an example, there are now over 220 little players in Sydney alone. Most with just a workshop, a saw and a couple of guys with angle grinders. They buy their slab requirements from a local slab wholesaler. Because they don't have much in the way of overheads they always under-quote an established firm who does quality work, guarantees the work and has good after sales service. But the established firms rarely get the work these days. Most of the jobs are money-driven. When problems arise, it is the quality guys who come in, but at a premium - which also doesn't really help the industry. These established guys are extremely worried by this developing trend because they know that the writing is on the wall. I don't know how it works in other countries. 
Quarry owners in Australia are also having a bad time. Not only is it difficult to compete with say Asia on price (for finished work or slabs) but also there is a much greater variety of stone to choose from. Around 21 quarries out of nearly 40 virtually disappeared with the demise of the biggest player a couple of years ago. All the QLD granite quarries disappeared with the demise of the biggest and best plant about 4 years ago. 
Our governments have also contributed to the downturn with rules and regulations in the workplace that I won't go into. On another front they do very little to protect our industry. This of course is good for the importer and that is why India, China and Indonesia are looking at us so eagerly. You can't blame them. 
For example, e3654 in www.findstone.com/jul02.htm from Melbourne sounds good on the surface but no-one from interstate would even consider quoting because a local fabricator would need to do the installation. Our distances are too great, the margins too small, and the competition too fierce for getting involved in anything smaller than a substantial commercial project. Australia, Aug 21, Reply 

R2: It is symptomatic of what's happening all over. I am now starting to import foreign materials, process them here in China, and ship them back out to Europe and the US. Some of my European clients are very happy with this, but most aren't. Those that are happy have a very clear view of what markets they are serving and the specialities they bring to these markets

R4: We are one of the successful stone quarriers and Processors operating in Australia, After reading the article on Australia in general is a sad place for the stone game, I felt compelled to send you a message. We quarry and saw mainly Bluestone (basalt) but have a granite plant also,, I agree with the comment re the Government regulations, which is stifling ALL industry in Australia, not just the stone industry, But I must make the comment we are still extremely busy. As an example of some of our projects is one of the famous Casino in Melbourne. The project covered 26000M2 of Granite and Bluestone paving, plus water features and Walls, Would like to subscribe to your page, Regards Don Bartlett.

R6: I agree with Michael (R#4): Stonemasonry in Queensland and Australia is strong and growing. Apprentice numbers in Qld have doubled over the last two years as employers train their workers for the future. Despite increases in numbers of skilled workers, there is still a labour shortage as the volume
of work steadily rises.
The proliferation of smaller companies referred to is a response to the changing nature of work. There are more uses for a greater variety of stone products, and customers demand that these products are individually tailored. Smaller companies can provide more flexibility, especially where the cost is a prime consideration, but they still rely on large companies to supply and fabricate product.
The recent departures from the industry are not indicative of a market slump, just poor management practices over a period of time. There will always be competition both locally and globally, however, quality never goes out of style. The stonemasonry industry leaders are those whose practices have stood the test of time and are able to adapt to changing conditions.
I am committed to improving the skills of workers to meet the present and future needs of the stone industry. Regards, Simon

R8: It sounds like its written by someone poorly informed and not in touch with where the industry really is in Australia. Im sure the Government of South Australia would be disappointed having been strong supporters of the stone industry in that state for some time. Regards, Paul Skinner

R10: I have about ten years' experience as both as an employee of small to medium-sized companies and as a sole trader. I do not pretend to know the complete current state nor the future direction of the stone industry in Australia.
I would, however, like to ask a few questions which may help clarify the forces involved in shaping our collective efforts to do quality work and earn a living.
In a country as isolated and vast as Australia, with such a small population compared to Asia, Europe, and America, the production and importation of a great variety of products makes an already expensive building material significantly greater. How can there be many operators offering a wide range of products and services to a small market without considerable expense?
Is there a requirement for suppliers to offer the vast variety of materials available, therefore ensuring high production cost, and try to educate the consumer/specifier as to allow them to make a decision? Or should we merely limit the availability so as to ensure that we can remain competitive against producers of alternative building products?
Australia has no 'culture' of stone use like that in Europe, for example - the proportion of homes and civic buildings here which use a significant portion of stone would be small in comparison. Also, working with stone, be it quarrying, manufacturing, or installing, takes considerable skill and time. I have personally had difficulty justifying the expense and time frame required for particular projects to architects, builders, and clients. This seems to be due to ignorance in the building community of the use of a product that is not commonly used. How do we explain the difference in prices of a job done properly with first quality materials versus the 'backyarder' who may cut corners on workmanship or material quality to the untrained consumer?
How does an individual set up on their own without being a 'backyarder' first? Not every one of us inherited our great grandfather's stoneyard and clientele, the cost of machinery is great, and it is expensive (and at times risky) to employ people under government regulations. Should we all work for the big 'established' companies forever? What incentive does that provide for young masons? I haven't met anyone working for a big company who has been making as much as a backyard paver or bricklayer might. If we want a healthy industry, should there not be room for small guys to grow big - perhaps at the expense of some big ones?
Is there any body of advisers to architects and builders to assist them in the selection and application of stone that you know of in Australia?
I have much to ask, and we all have much to learn. I shall endeavour to help if I can. I look forward to further correspondence. Regards, Nicholas Quinn

R1: Dear Michael: Here we go again, "Keep it simple!" Well, you can't, end of story!
"They are all granites" you say? "Dream on" is my answer! Many of those "granites" don't even have quartz in them. Many are not even igneous rocks; they are either sedimentary, or metamorphic, even! Some of them are "bastard" stones!
No, I do not want to show off my "scientific knowledge" by using fancy names, I'm only stating facts, and I only use fancy names to make people understand that we're dealing with stones that can be totally different from granite, therefore no blanket rule or recommendation can ever apply. When I hear a customer reporting that their installer, or their interior designer told them that "all granites" need to be sealed, my Italian blood goes to a boiling point, and I actually go banana when I read reports about the "weird problems" that the application of a sealer applied anyway causes.
To understand problems you have to understand what you're dealing with. It looks to me that, besides a few exceptions like yourself, nobody bothers trying to find out what they're actually dealing with. They go by what the invoices of the distributors, and the advertising pitch of the various brochures they get from different manufacturers of "miracle-in-a-bottle" 
(including myself!) say. End of the "education" I don't care about the good exceptions like yourself, Mike, I can't waste my time with them. I feel that I need to tackle the rule, and that plain sucks! Why?
Simply because everybody tries to "keep it simple" and concentrate in a telegram format a whole science. No, we wouldn't need to use all those fancy names if everybody were like you. 
That would be a perfect world and we wouldn't even need web pages like this one. But we don't live in a perfect world, do we, Mike! If people write in their gripes and their dissatisfaction is because something is very, VERY wrong. It's not you that's wrong, Mike; for what you report you are indeed a good guy. But your way of thinking is wrong, because 
you think that everybody else is like you. Wake up and smell the coffee, my friend, there's a totally different world out there, and it doesn't smell good at all.
Keep it simple ... How simpler could I possibly keep it? I invented the "lemon juice test" and promoted it like the only thing you need to make an intelligent selection of the stone you're going to invest a nice piece of change into. Can you think of anything simpler than that? I use "impressive names" only to drive home the message, but I always end up by looking at the practical aspect of the whole picture and offer my solutions in a way that everybody can understand.
I'm pretty successful at that: the testimonials that I receive every day from the people I helped and that finally were able to understand the first darn thing about stone, after all the "gurus" they've been talking to, is all the confirmation I need.
You are good in your own backyard, Mike, I'm sure of that, but your contribution ends right there. I never saw you writing something to help people the way I do it, spending countless hours at my keyboard, without any compensation. Why don't you do that, instead of simply criticizing without any constructive input? mate, Maurizio, USA .

This answer is a follow up to the reply posted by Roger, UK. 
Dear Roger: First, I don't know about this "Marble in the world" book, nor I care to know
about it. If it's wrong it's wrong and it's certainly not my fault. 
Second, I never make stereotypes about nationalities. If I did, I would have to conclude that all the citizens of the UK are a bunch of bloated gasbags, going by your comment.
I don't know stone because I am Italian, I know stone because I studied it; and I studied it scientifically, not by looking at some "Marble in the world" book. On top of that I can flaunt a little over 40 years of field experience.
That's why I say that most "granites" are indeed not granite. This is a scientific fact and no ignorant blowhole (from the UK or otherwise) can change that. The stone industry is in the current situation because of characters like yourself. The disillusioned consumers who post all their gripes, problems and frustration on this site don't need you; they need me, because you ARE the problem, while I am the solution. I never missed you before, Roger. I promise, I will not miss you in the future, either, should you decide, as I fervently hope, to get permanently lost. Maurizio, USA .

R4: Hi! We have just installed two double vanity tops of Blue Pearl and remodelled our kitchen with Black Galaxy after many months of searching, inspecting and discussing. It is clear that there is a lot of ignorance and different views among stone retailers when it comes to knowing the stone and whether to seal or not to seal. I have been reading your site for some time now which has helped me make up my mind about what to invest in. From
reading the responses to a recent question on Blue Pearl (Q 2488), it seems that there is some confusion among your experts. I notice that Dr. Hans calls Blue Pearl and Black Galaxy granite types whereas Maurizio says they are not granites at all. Maurizio calls Blue Pearl an anorthosite. I have done a degree in petrology and have to say that it is not an anorthosite by a long shot (to use his phrase) but a syenite or larvikite. We specialized in this rock because it is so unusual. When my husband and I went around inspecting slabs, the sales people all called them granite. Because of my studies, I know what a granite is but I don't have any objection to the whole range of granites being called granites. After all most of them are igneous, and this sets them apart from all the marbles and other rocks. No one expects the retailers to call this granite a monzonite, or that granite a charnockite. Imagine the confusion! By what I read, it seems that the retailers in England and Scotland are more informed than those in the US. Elizabeth, U.K.

R6: Maurizio, I have noticed that in several of your comments, you infer that the "granite" people think they have in their homes is not granite at all. What might it be instead? Sincerely, Rebecca, USA.

R6: Dear discussing friends, there are two senses of "granite". Granite in commercial sense is hard polishable stone with grainy structure. Granite in scientific sense is magmatic rock which was formed by crystalization from magma under earth surface. It is composed of feldspars (hardness: 6) and quartz (hardness: 7), less micas.
Granites in commercial sense have different origin and minerals:
MAGMATIC ROCKS - crystalization from magma
1 granite group - granite (in scientific or petrographic sense), granodiorite
2 syenite group - syenite, quartz syenite, monzonite, quartz monzonite, larvikite
3 gabbro group - gabbro, anorthosite, dolerite
4 charnockites - special group, some can be added to granite, others to syenite group
METAMORPHIC ROCKS - recrystalization of sedimentary and magmatic rocks under earth surface
1 gneiss group - paragneiss, orthogneiss, migmatite, granulite
2 quartzites - sometime separated as individual commercial group

Some common, but not universal, rules of granites in commercial sense:

1. STRUCTURE. Homogenous structure or mildly oriented is feature of magmatic rocks. Structure with bands, strikes, waves is a mark of metamorphic rock.
2. HARDNESS. The darker the granite the lesser the quartz, & the lower the hardness. Mohs hardness is from 6 to 7 (not scratchable by knife).
3. STRENGTH. The larger the grain size, the lower the strength & the greater the brittleness.
4. WATER ABSORPTION. The more the quartz the lighter the granite & the larger the absorption.
5. SPECIFIC GRAVITY. The darker the granite,the heavier, the granite. Daniel, Slovakia, .

Q 2491: Hello, I just purchased a new Uba Tuba (granite) countertop. When it was installed, one of the seams started to droop. The installer came and inserted wooden shims to brace the portion that was drooping at the seam. Unfortunately, after he did this, three hairline, seemingly structural cracks appeared at three of the four corners of my drop in stove. He came back and said the piece needed to be replaced. The countertop has our new mirrored backsplash resting on it. While he said it would be no problem to remove the piece without damaging the backsplash, he seemed to get somewhat concerned when I told him the cost and that i expected him to replace it if it was damaged.
After that, he said the company would be willing to reimburse me for the cost of that portion of the granite that was cracked... or replace it... I am really tired of these goobers in my kitchen. Should I have it replaced or should I take my chances?
Bad Experiences? My countertop hasn't been installed but for one month and the installers have been here 3 additional times (i'm awaiting the 4th), the counter was not as wide as requested: the water control on the sink was improperly installed; the counter started to "dip" after one week; etc, ad nauseum.
Cost? Should have been listed with bad experiences. @$5,000, which would have been fine if i had received the product I requested.
Why did I select natural stone? It's beautiful, it's less expensive than Corian, and would "in my opinion" greatly improve the resale value of the home. Thanks Mary, Aug 19, Reply

R7: Ask about epoxies to seal the hairline cracks. I wouldn't mess with it- sounds like the nature of Ubatuba to me.  Ubatuba has a somewhat crystalline makeup to it that would lend to this cracking. As you know, quartz is very easily fractured. What you get in beauty you sacrifice in strength.  Best wishes. Steve, USA.

R5: Where is the job located? Can you feel the cracks?, Dennis, USA.

R3: Hello! I am a geologist from Brazil, this granite came from Espirito Santo. Please think a Rock is a "natural" thing. If it broke, it broke. The End. If you want and have money enough, buy another Ubatuba - the correct name., Clovis, Brazil.

R1: Mary, It is impossible to know from here whether or not it will get worse or not. Please recognize that from your description that your fabricator/installer made an error. It seems that the individual got nervous when you upped the ante about the backsplash. Though you are upset, probably justifiably so, the person has given you two reasonable options. If you don't want them back in your home then accept the settlement proffered and move on. If you worry that the color match and solution by anyone else may cause damage that you would have to pay for, then let them (the original goobers) take care of it. Stipulate in writing all the what ifs and then let it proceed. Who knows, they may show that they weren't a bunch of goobers after all is said and done. Best regards, Steven,

Q 2490: We are in the process of selecting a granite for our kitchen counter top. We were almost sure we wanted Tropic Brown - a highly polished surface. One thing wrong about this color and polish is that the recess lights above reflect in it and are in my constant viewing area when I am looking down at the counter and cooking or working at the counter. This gives me a headache. SO we looked again and like the "Giallo Veneziano" It looks beautiful on the counter and goes very well with my rest of the color scheme. I got a sealed piece from the fabricator ( but now learned that I should have waited 24 hours but tested after 7 hours) and did the oil and lemon test by leaving it on there for 30 minutes.
Then when i cleaned with sidwasher soap and water with a terry wash claoth, it left a little darker circular mark. Ketchup didn't but the oil and lemon did. but it blends with the stones desgin and color for now. I am afraid of over the years the accumulation of stains and which other items that may stain the I don't know about. In indian cooking oil, tea and spices are used heavily hence my concern of stains. Even though i always use the clear palsic squares in my dorki area to protect even the laminate I have right now. So is this the wrong stone color for our needs or can it be sealed better.
The fabricator said that he can wax it after sealing it to give it added stain resistance. Is it true? Are the stoneguard sealant truly good as they say and will they protect the giallo veneziano from stains or should I forget about that color? how soon should I seal myself with this stone guard after the material is delivered? Please help me make the right decision. from reading your site I am doing my research as much as I can do before I sign on the dotted line. Thanks Sudha Aug 19, Reply

Q 2489:I am an importer of natural stone. I started my business a year ago. I mostly import from Turkey to US market. My family has been in the business for 10 years. However, I get questions that we never get in Turkey... People, even installers in town insist that Travertine is very porous and will absorb like sponge. I pour water on my products to demonstrate but no one believes them. I believe I lose quite a bit of customers because there is potential for absorption in the shower, potential for staining in the kitchen, and potential for frost on the exterior...
How can I convince my customers & even installers that travertine has its flaws like many natural stones but is a good fit for many areas?
Once I heard the husband of a housewife, who wanted to install our products into her bath, say he said "she is lying to sell"... I never lie to my customers, I tell them "yes travertine will scratch, they have to pad the metal chairs, and it will stain over time, they just have to let time age their stone"... but the other dealers I think are not as honest me, and they tell the customers that their product will not scratch, stain, etc.
People here in Memphis tell me that they love the European look, the old look, but they don't want stains... my school had travertine on the floors, and its still there for 100 years, and it looks gorgeous, with students coke, toast, dirt from shoes....my husbands mom has Afyon white marble on her countertop (she didn't choose it, it was the builders' choice probably)... and it looks like tumbled stone now... and it is fine... and it looks much better than the ugly plastic countertops that they use in Memphis, Thanks. Gina, Aug 19, Reply

R2: Dear Gina , We have been selling travertine for about 30 years in Turkey and we have been using it for wall & floor covering .We both use filled or unfilled travertine both honed and polished . Travertine is a fashion . If a person likes natural look and wants to use natural stone that can be fit to every decoration should choose travertine . It has a very warm look because of its color and texture. Yes ,It will stain over time , it has its flaws but we have used for kitchen floor coverings , toilets wall coverings and in most villas for all floor coverings. NO NEED TO WORRY. Behiye Gürsel

R4: Travertine is very porous but once it has been sealed properly with an impregnating sealer and maintained with non-alkaline ph balanced cleaners and sealed on a regular maintenance program it is as easy to maintain as a beautiful granite or tile or laminate (plastic) countertop; actually I find it to be easier to care for. 

R6: Seeing is believing.  Have you considered installing a few yards of the travertine in a high traffic area  along with displaying large (24"x28") photographs of French travertine floors? Create a small area rich with old world ambience.  The husbands won't have a chance! Good Luck!   Barb, USA.

R8: Dear Gina, I think that you are encountering a cultural difference between the US and
Turkey well as a touch sell on travertines. Let me explain.
1) Travertine is quarried on almost every continent. The "fill" level varies greatly among what is on the market giving it a widely varying porosity. Consequently, travertine is not generally not recommended for certain applications.
2) Americans believe that stains represent a dirty housekeeper. No American woman wants her neighbor to see stains in her kitchen or bath. My company is one of the oldest American manufacture of stone cleaners, polishes and sealers. We have two excellent sealers that I could sample you on if you send me your address. Perhaps if you could offer your customers a sealer that wouldn't change the look of the stone put would prevent stains you could overcome their fears. Regards, Barbara, USA.

R 10: Travertine is a very porous material. If you install travertine in wet area, you have to use a sealer on the surface of the material. Turkey

R 12: First of all, I think you are honest because you are able to tell the truth to customers that travertine's quality inside. But in fact, there is no like sponge absorb coincide with travertine because no same structure occurred between them. 
Travertine is just consists of bigger space at molecue level and it makes it more convenient to water molecule through, but its strength is stronger to some extent than marble ones. Generally speaking, granite is hardest, travertine second, marble and sandstone last. 
Color changing maybe is most seriously worried by customers due to they usually get misguided by some dishonest merchants persuas. Don't pay it more attention. Travertine is good for decoration outside or inside. Since more space in it, water with particles can go through freely, that is also mean stone respiration. but one thing is attached, the surface should be cleaned frequently. Cordially, Piness, China

R 14: well..........i guess it would have been nice to see the facts that "Maurizio the expert" talked about. This expert is not brainwashed by anyone. Biker

R 16: Say whatever you would like but there must be a reason for the entire Getty Center in los angeles is made completely of travertine and is going to erode slowly over the years but travertine is meant to age and that’s the way it looks good, travel around Italy for a little while and youll see if its not white carrara its travertine, Good luck, sounds like you have some repressed anger against “ salesman” I don’t sell sealer or care if you buy it or not I’ve just been doing stone since I was 7 and I know that sealer helps. Chill out, Gino

R 18: This is my comment to the answer #16 given by Gino Dear Gino: What are you, 10, now? :-) Besides, let me tell you what I think about seniority by itself. When I was 10 years old my parents took me to visit some farmer friend of ours approximately half an hour outside the city where I lived (Parma, Italy). During that visit I had the opportunity to see a baby donkey that was born a few days earlier. Some 12 years later I happened to visit again those friends of ours, and ... after 12 years, that donkey was still a jackass! Much bigger, as a matter of fact! Tell me about Italy, Gino, I was born there, I grew up there and I moved to this country when I was 37. The Coliseum is made of travertine. Do you think the ancient Romans sealed it?! Besides, what on earth your comparison of outdoor installations has got to do with indoor ones? All calcite-based stones are effected by the weather (acid rain. Rain's always been acidic, even before pollution was invented, namely 5.6 pH) and "deteriorate". But the deterioration is only so if you compare it to the original factory finish (whatever that was). In fact, the "deterioration" is nothing but the result of the way the stone fights the elements of the weather by creating a "patina" over its otherwise defenseless surface. That patina may not "look good", but it's a blessing, and only an idiot would try to remove it to make the travertine "look good" again. Now, are you perhaps suggesting that if they had applied an expensive impregnator (like mine, for instance) in the travertine of the Getty center in L.A., it would still be OK? Get real, will you!
My company is still in the process of formulating special sealer for the Bank of China headquarters in Beijing. The whole huge building (all 200,000 square feet of it!) has be cladded with polished Navona travertine, and now they want it to stay like that! Of course, I'm not going to sell them my impregnator. No impregnator would do any good to protect the surface finish -- and you ought to know that. What we're trying to develop is a topical sealer to be applied with a sprayer that will resist the heat of the Beijing hot summers and the freezing cold of its winters.
But again, what has all this got to see with Gina gripes? She claim that travertine is a dense stone and does not need to be sealed (with an impregnator), while all the "salesmen" running the stone industry say otherwise. The simple fact is that she's right and that the "salesmen" are wrong, period, end of story, no debate possible, unless you want to express your opinion saying that 2 + 2 = 5. I don't have some repressed anger against "salesmen". I just plain despise them, because they represent the problem of the stone industry that I so much love, not the solution. And when I see all these postings in this and other sites that are only stemming from either the stupidity or the plain specific ignorance of the "salesmen" who run the show, I get upset. Read my comment to Biker's comment. Maurizio, usa.

R 20: Hi, Gina, I am a Turkish woman who produces and installes stones. I also love to use travertine like you. The easiest way to convince your customers is to apply water repellent onto the travertine after you fill it. So both the stone and the filling material become resistant against absorbing and stains. Since the water repellent is a translucent liquid the physical properties of the stone does not change. Good luck., Istanbul

Thanks everyone for their answers... However, as you can see even in this panel many believe that travertine is actually "porous" and it needs to be sealed well, which I think will actually damage the product... I believe because people see holes on the stone, and it has a matte finish, they automatically think that it will absorb. We are now reinstalling stone in our showroom, and I will make sure that some of the stones will not be "sealed well"... then the customers will choose what they like... but as you can see from this panel, even with people in the industry there are 2 opposing sides, and whatever we say will not change the problem. And I think I will take Barb's advice and get the housewives with its looks :) Gina

Q 2825: I have lived with travertine tile counterops for years and they are GORGEOUS!!! So much so, that five family members and friends installed them as well. They all adore them, even many years later and they still receive numerous compliments from everyone that sees them. Kids, parties and all. I can not see why they are a bad choice. They only become more beautiful year after year (and inexpensive to boot). Good Luck, Heather, Sept 30, Reply

Q 2820: I am glad to find your website and would like to get some opinion as to how much it would costs me to set up a small factory just to cut polished slabs into tiles and the minimum number of workers invovled. Many thanks. Phi, Sept 30, Reply

Q 2816: My wife has a coffee table which my wife just had shipped from Holland. Her friends father had it made many years ago from irregular shaped pieces of marble, with gray 'grout' between the pieces. The grout varies in width from millimeters to a half an inch. In transport, 3 of the corners were damaged. We must glue some of the corner pieces back together, regrout, and polish it. Do you have any suggestions for what to use for glue and for grout? Thanks Rick, Sept 30, Reply

Q 2814: I have a large entry that appears to be granite. The contractor that installed the floor made it unlevel. He then came in and ground it down and shot blasted the surface of the tiles. The tiles are now pitted and dull and extremely rough -- but now level. Contractor has walked away. Do you have any suggestions for restoring a shiny high gloss finish to these tiles? Are there any epoxy finishes that are utilized for this Tnx Rick. Sept 30, Reply

Q 2812: I want to buy the best lasting and looking black granite monument for my brother. I have been told that Chinese black stone is the same quality as an African black stone. The difference is the chinese black stone is cheaper as the labour, shipping and etc. of the stone is cheaper than the black african stone. Is this correct? Ken, Canada, Sept 27, Reply  

Q 2811: I recently purchased Bianco Select for a client's apartment. I explained to the showroom clerk, (at the DCOTA), the need for color uniformity and high quality with minimal fill. I was assured that this was the case with the Select grade I was purchasing. My business is located in the NorthEast and I hired a local designer to oversee the installation, by an installer he recommended. The material was reviewed at my request, at the warehouse jointly by the designer and installer. I authorized the purchase of 40 extra sq.ft of material to ensure that no pieces which were not uniform would be used. The material installed ranges so greatly in value, from almost white to dark brown, that a haphazard checkerboard look has been achieved. Daily calls from me to both of the parties did not alert me to any problems. A subsequent review by the material supplier confirms that incorrect grade of material was supplied. How could this not have been apparent to 2 professionals who have worked in this field for over 20 years??? Does not the term "Select" signify anything- (as apparently my instructions regarding the quality required were ignored)? I do know I could have purchased material for a lot less that did not have this designation. Obviously I have various liability issues to settle as my client requires the floor be replaced. Any info on industry standards regarding this designation would be appreciated. Thanks for your help!! Nastri, Sept 27, Reply

Q 2810: I am interested in installing a new granite kitchen countertop, but have a couple questions. I am looking at a color called "Blue Sapphire" but have seen no reference to it here. Is it granite or some other stone? Also, under the sink is a radiator, the only one in the kitchen. Since I live in New England the radiator gets used quite a bit in the winter. Will that be a problem for a granite couter and aluminum sink? (The counter and sink now are stainless steel.) Last, if we have a counter installed now and change the cabinet in a few years will there be a major problem in re-installing the granite counter? Bruce,Sept 27, Reply

R1: Dear Sungloss, Haven't encountered that problem with black marbles but there is no reason why it should be restricted to the lighter-coloured varieties. Your problem might be sub-surface efflorescence(especially if sealed) or even Byne's disease. (Dr. Hans) Australia

R1: Dear Evan, You have asked enough questions about basalt to fill an entire section of a book if properly answered. In short, basalt can be used as a cladding material or as a construction medium. Just look at the impressive cathedrals and other buildings built in Australia using basalt. I don't know of any producers in the US supplying basalt but there are certainly a few around in other parts of the world. As with the broad term "granites", the rock types sold as basalt are rarely basalt but include silica-undersaturated varieties and chemically intermediate ones such as andesites. Then, of course, you can always metamorphose a basalt to produce a different rock type. The Australian variety that is produced around Melbourne in large amounts is pretty close to a true basalt and generally quite vesicular. (Dr. Hans) ,

R1: Dear Lisa: If you want me to do the job it will cost you $900 plus tax (I do cover the A.C. area and I do the work myself) and I will guarantee in writing that you won't have a problem anymore. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Bob: Since the retailer who will end up selling the "marble" to you, and the installer who's going to set it in your house are not able to answer your questions and address in a convincing manner your rightful concerns , you may want to consider paying me a little consultation fee for your peace of mind.
You know, they will be making money out of you, while I have to give you my expertise for free? ... How does that sound to you? Just get in touch with me at: info@findstone.com. My consultation fees are quite reasonable. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Nate: If you read my statement you also read my "because". Sorry, but I'm not going to repeat myself over and over. The same thing goes about the setting material.

R1: It's a topic which is very close to our heart at FindStone. We believe that it is probably due to this very inability of suppliers to convey the meaning of different qualities, that the stone industry is one where suppliers are only as honest as they are forced to be. Our experience with our open and accessible price list section and publicly visible negotiations is that buyers understand that there is a small band of prices for each quality type and take their decisions on the basis of other parameters e.g. ease of purchase, delivery time, payment terms. So how can you convey that your quality / service is superior?
a) Educate the Buyer: Explain what are the various possibilities of supply and what is the quality range you supply e.g. thickness tolerances, right angle tolerances, gloss level, shade range, range of defects. Explain how you classify, grade, and sort. Give prices for each of these qualities or state the discount for lower quality. Explain this with the help of stone images, list of your machinery, type of projects done, and organizational structure.
b) Give a Quality Assurance and a Dispute-Resolution Method e.g:
i) Send under self-inspection with payment terms such as 'Against l/c or CAD or DP, with 90% to you and 10% to FindStone'. When buyer receives goods, if he has any complaints about quality, buyer has to give proof of problem through an agreed third-party inspection agency, else FindStone will release balance payment to you. If there is a problem, you will replace / give discount at agreed rate e.g. transport borne by buyer.
ii) Send with inspection certificate of SGS or a similar third-party inspection agent at buyer's / supplier's cost. (Nevertheless, industry after industry has realised that higher quality does not mean higher costs. In fact, producing higher quality reduces production costs. So your goal should be to become cheaper than the low-quality suppliers.), Findstone

R1: Dear Sim: You hire a proven professional stone refinisher. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Sandy: Are you talking about tumbled travertine? (You mention holes) If that's the case, you DO want those holes filled with grout in a backsplash! The sealing has to be done a couple of weeks after the installation is finished. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Sleef: Is there a marble that's not crystallized? Use water and house hold bleach with a brush. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dera Mxzie: "Simple green", huh ... You might as well use sandpaper! Use a solution of water, houselhold bleach and elbow-grease. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Paul: Yes, it will and big time, too! Trust me, you do NOT want that stuff in your kitchen!! To remove stains see my stain Removal guidelines, Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Angela: They all are excellent choices. Pick the one you like best. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Joe: Call a chimney cleaning company. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Gisele: Use acetone and a clean rag. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Jim: You're kidding, right ... OK, you almost got me ... That was funny, all right! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Tracy, There are a few good lighter-coloured granites around. to #2790 (Dr. Hans),

Q 2792: How do I care for my new Butterfly Verde granite counter top? The finish is polished not matte. The installers recommended sealing it every 3 months but didn't recommend what type of sealer to use. Also, the 3 month deal seems like an overkill to me. They also recommended not using Windex or similar cleaners since they would remove the sealer. Water with dish soap, as they recommended, leaves a terrible haze. Any advice or warnings on granite care would be greatly appreciated. I thought granite was supposed to be easy to care for? Lewis, Sept 25, Reply

Q 2791: This past weekend we picked out a slab of "granite" called Juparana Rust. It is located 50 miles from our home so the lemon juice test I just read about this morning is not possible at this point. I know that there are many types of Juparana stones, but can you tell me anything about this type of stone, regarding how porous it is etc? I have read a large portion of your fantastic web site advice and am concerned about oil, etc. stains. In a conversation with our fabricator a while back, he mentioned that they usually put 2 - 3 coats of sealer. I am wondering if this is sufficient or should we ask for more coats? The slab is being delivered to our fabricator today or tomorrow so I really appreciate your advice! Thanks! Sue, Sept 25, Reply

Q 2790: I understand the value of the "lemon test" when selecting a granite for a kitchen countertop. I am not having much luck finding a "granite" that passes the test and satisfies our color palette. We are looking for something that might be categorized as Beige or Gold. We looked at Gibli (ghibli), Junapero Nepal, and something called Kashmir Ivory (which I have not been able to find anywhere else); we generally liked the colors of these but they did not do so well on the lemon test (no acid problems but absorption looks like a problem). From reading this web site, it looks like some acceptable "browns" might be: Baltic Brown, Dakota Mahogany and Uba Tuba, but they are all darker than we would like. I have seen some mention that Santa Cecilia is borderline for a kitchen counter and its color may be ok. Can you recommend any "granites" that are suitable for a kitchen countertop, but are in the beige or gold color groups. thanks, Rich, Sept 25, Reply

Q 2789: We moved into a new home about 6 weeks ago that has Riviera slate floor tiles. We were told to do a vinegar wash to remove any leftover grout haze and then apply a sealant. So far all we've done is sweep and vacuum and wipe up spots as they happen. We could use a bit of your expert advice before tackling both acid washing and sealing. Sincerely, Mike & Irene Goodwin, Sept 25, Reply

Q 2788: I purchased a ceramic softsoap container. I filled it with soft soap, one of the bacterial ones.I placed it on the countertop in the bathroom, which is faux granite. Its not corian, but something like it, not formica either. It has a polished finish. Anywy, it left a cloud on the counter top. It happened so fast. I don't know what to do. It looks awful. The man at hardware the store said to rub it with 600 grit sand paper, then repolish. Please help. Kathi, Sept 25, Reply

Q 2787: As it stands your site has had no usefulness to me.
Your questions and answers are not laid out in a useful format. Obviously there are different rules for different types of stone and you have all of them combined. b) Many of the responses are contradictory of one another.
Left column categoration... is great. I found many inquiries and responses that were both interesting and informative. But on the actual queston and answer side it does get quite difficut to find answeres to specific questions. If somehow these could be posted in order by stone type and application, ie. wall or foor, tile or slab, marble or granite. I found the answers that I was looking for, just not for the type of stone that I am using. A list of basic rules that apply to all types of stone, and a sublist of rules that apply to the individual types, by application would also be helpful. It would be much easier for someone with a specific question for a specific aplication to find answers, and might even reduce the duplicate questions. Something of this nature then followed by the questions and answers for the more specific and the less common problems would be more informative. I have no idea what the correct approach would be to accomplish this but for people like me who are ready to proceed with a project and have a question pop up, this would be a better way to find the answer. The current format is very helpful to the individual who is just beginning to explore stone. I mentioned before that I found many useful tips that might help me in the future.
  As for my process of preparing for my project.It was just a matter of seeing what I liked and wanted in a magazine and tile galeries that made me choose Travertine for my own kitchen. I did not do the research that I should have. I purchased the material at a reasonable price ($3.sq.ft), and the volume was such that I am not out much if I made a mistake and had to pull it down. As I have learned through the books that i have viewed since and this site, I did make some mistakes. I used premixed mastive for one, although I have had no problems as of yet and the application seems firm.
  As for my current project, I did a complete kitchen remodel for a client and she had strong ideas about what she wanted and basically did all the legwork. She and I have a very good working reationship and she feels comfortable that even with my lack of experience with stone, I can do the job beyond her expectations. I have been cramming like crazy, talking to installers and suppliers. The installers that are willing to talk though seem to be the ones that really don't have a clue. Its amazing at the number of contractors that do beautiful work but dont't really know what they are really doing.As for books, I did not really find much of any use on actual stone most pertain to ceramic. I hope this feedback has some benefit for you. Sept 24, Reply

Q 2786: Would appreciate comments on black polished granite for kitchen countertops. Is it hard to keep clean and looking good? Dee, Alabama, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2785: We are considering Azul Bahia for our kitchen countertops. I am interested in your opinions of this stone, including maintenance, wear and tear, staining, etc. Thanks Dan Johnson, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2784: We are looking for "crema marfil" marble flooring for our home. How do we select this type of stone. We found a price that seemed too good to be true at one supplier as compared to the others. How do we really know what is good quality marble? Jasmine, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2783: We are purchasing a home with flagstone as horizontal decorative brick around the front door and extending into a low planter, which has been painted bright yellow. We understand that the stone was mismatched in color. The entrance (floor) is also flagstone and quite dingy. Is sandblasting the best way to remove the paint? I understand we can rent a small unit ourselves. What about cleaning the floor area? I was told the flagstone could be dyed (or bleached?), using dyes designed for concrete, to even out the match. What do you think? The floor looks pinky. Pale yellow tones would be our first choice. (The house is painted yellow.) Finally, is there a faux painting technique that would work -- or do we need to plant lots of vines?! Cathy, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2782: We have a beachfront condo and are considering saw-cut Saturnia travertine for our rooftop terrace. Should we be concerned about the surface being slippery and unsafe? The area is 1200 square feet and we are considering 18”x 18” tiles. If Travertine works do you recommend honed and filled for exterior surfaces? Any other recommendations? Tim, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2781: Hi Can you please tell me how to remove stains from Jerusalem Limestone and how I prevent stains from seeping into the surface. thx. Dini, Sept 24, Reply

Q 2780: It would be nice to have a listing of names of granites and their best application (e.g., good for a kitchen counter, etc... Doris, Sept 23, Reply

Q 2779: www.findstone.com has been useful in educating me on the benefits and pitfalls of various types of stones. I received quite an education on "granites" especially. The Q & A is also very beneficial in educating consumers. I found the pictures of granites, separated by origin, to be very interesting and useful.
I am redoing my kitchen and have chosen for my flooring a porcelain tile that has the look of slate, it's beige with gold and grey in it and almost takes on a slightly greenish tint. For my cabinets I have chosen a glazed honey cabinet. I have been searching for the "right" countertop and am considering either Uba tuba or Imperial green "granite" -- looking thru your postings, I see Uba tuba is a good choice (although it's darker and busier than I really wanted to go.) Can you provide any info on Imperial Green "granite" and do you feel it's a good choice for a kitchen countertop? Also, can you suggest other "granites" or natural stone that would work with the color scheme I have in mind?
The estimates I have been getting for granite countertops in the NY area (I believe done with 1 slab, or just a little bit more, is between: $3200 - $4800 US dollars.
Do continue to provide this excellent service and I look forward to answers to my questions. Doris, Sept 23, Reply

Q 2778: Greetings! I have a few questions before we decide on new countertops. We saw something called "green slate" available from Vermont - it looks beautiful, but I'm concerned with its performance as a countertop. If that wouldn't perform as well as granite, do you have any granite suggestions that resemble the green slate? I USE my kitchen and I need something that can stand up to serious cooking and not so immediate clean-up. My particular concern is how each would deal with tea stains. We use a lot of loose tea. What kind of sink would be best for a tea-drinking family? Thank you, Lisa, Sept 23, Reply

Q 2776: I have black galaxy on the kitchen island and use the TileLab product for cleaning and I have sealed it with the TileLab sealer (don't know if that was the right thing to do). All stains from cooking come out with the use of the cleaner except for hard water stains around the sink. Can I use the hydrogen peroxide poultice to remove the water stains? I did the acetone test to see if any black came out in my cloth and none did. On a bathroom vanity I have Tropical Brown, & the hard water stains can be removed with the cleaner but the area that gets the most abuse doesn't feel smooth like the rest of the vanity top. Do I use the hydrogen peroxide poultice in this case? Are your products available in Canada, all I can get a hold of in my area is the TileLab brand. Marsha, Sept 23, Reply

Q 2775: Can stone and /or marble be used in a swimming pool ? If chlorine is a problem, are there other alternatives? Repty, Sept 21, Reply

Q 2774: We have had Kashmir White granite installed this week and then the contractor honed it in our kichen (dust was incredible) ,because he fogot ,however apart from some surface looking scratches the look was great.The contractor left 2 days ago but we are shocked to see the amount of staining that has appeared . Ring marks and Small blotches of ketchup that We are unsure of our next move do we approach someone else to seal it, use a specialist cleaner or attenpt to sand the marks off ? any help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike, Sept 19, Reply

Q 2773: What is the safest and easiest way to clean hard water deposits and "soap scum" in a marble shower? Second question: Our dog vomited on the marble floor in the bathroom and nos the sheen is gone from that spot as though the stomach acid etched the marble. Anything that we can do? Thanks, Frank, Sept 19, Reply

Q 2772: I bought a 6 inch tall stone carving in S. Korea. I only paid 20 bucks for it. My question, it looks like soapstone, it is soft like soapstone but they insist it’s a volcanic stone and not soap stone, Thanks, Tuely, Sept 19, Reply

R1: Dear Lisa: Yes, cement board is "your man". Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Yolanda: For starters, there are three types of Botticino:
1. Botticino Classico;
2. Botticino Semi-classico;
3. Botticino Fiorito. The Classico is, by now, just a dream. Since the classification above is only voluntary, a few unscrupulous dealers (or, maybe the dealer doesn't know how to tell them apart, therefore the unscrupulous party is the importer) now sell the lower quality
Semi-Classico as Classico. There is where (and why) you have the most obvious differences in color and patterns. The Fiorito is usually pretty much consistent af far as patterns are concerned and easier to spot, but there can be some variations in color (darker or lighter), even if not dramatic. It takes a REAL expert to tell the Semi-Classico apart from the Classico. On top of that, one must consider the "secret" grading about each species! ... As you can conclude by yourself, you're pretty much at the mercy (or lack thereof) of your dealer on this one. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Vandana: You could try "Blue Pearl" (the light colored one). It usually doesn't need to be sealed, but it's always best to run the lemon juice test on any stone you are going to consider. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Sandra: Like I said in many other occasions, I'm no interior decorator! The only thing I can tell you is that both choices you mention are very good indeed, from a mechanic point of view. Maurizio, USA

Have I identified the problem correctly? Where I can find books that will enable me to classify better our stone and identify where it should be used and how it should be maintained? I appreciate any advise you can give me. Many thanks.Victor, Sept 18, Reply

R1: Dear Victor, Giallo Veneziano is gneiss with granite composition. It contains feldspars, quartz, garnet and micas. I think unfortunately some feldspar crystals were originally alternated during metamorphism. In their crystals microscopic clay mineral lamellas were created (dull appearance after polishing). The first slab was exposed to intensive chemical weathering because of warm rains and sun radiation (high temperature together with water). The alternated feldspars were easy disintegrated to white powder (clay minerals and disintegrated feldspar). I am not expert for sealers and similar thinks. I think you must save slabs against combination of water saturation and sun exposure. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist.

R1: Dear Jesse: You can use a product called "Lymeaway" (I'm not sure about the spelling), that's available pretty much at any supermarket. Don't overuse it. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Vandana: If you like this site so much, then you will also know that -- at least as far as I am concerned -- am not a fan(atic) of sealers (although I manufacture one!). There are many a "granite" that don't need to be sealed. Keep in mind, however, that a sealer for stone (a.k.a. "impregnator") is a below-surface product. What's more, to the best of my knowledge, all the resins used to make a sealer, are -- once properly cured -- totally inert materials that will not contaminate anything. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Catherine: The maintenance requirements for your stone are not much different than those for any other calcite-based natural stone. There are two issues that you have to address: 1. Although the stone is inherently quite dense, being honed and in a kitchen environment, I'd encourage you to have it professionally sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator. 2. You indicate that your have wide grout lines. As you know, Grout is quite absorbent and does need to be sealed (the same sealer for the stone should take care of the grout, too). This will only prevent deep staining, however. In fact, your grout will get dirtly (surface soil) real quick in a kitchen, considering that's sanded grout, therefore rough. Periodically you will have to have someone go down on hands and knees and, with an old toothbrush, a solution of water and bleach and a lot of elbow-grease, clean the gout lines of your floor. Other than that, Maurizio, USA

Q 2761: My son dyed his hair red and rinsed it onto our Sun Valley marble counter tops. He is using clorox at full strength to remove it. Any better ways? Thanks, Brooks, Sept 17, Reply

Q 2760: I work at a church that 15 years ago moved the chape to a marbled wall enterance for safety reasons We now want to clean these wall and restore them ? It looks like someone fail to rinse the walls after cleaning them. Kramer, NY,Sept 17, Reply

R1: Dear Kramer: For what I can understand, whoever attempted to clean those marble walls used the wrong cleaner that has damaged the stone surface (you have running streaks, right?). You will need a professional stone restoration contractor to repair the damage done by the chemicals in the cleaning agent that was used. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Kay: No, I don't. But if you already found "some good" ones, why do you keep searching? Stick to those. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Granacher, I have not ever heard of the stone. It is probably a local name. Daniel, Slovakia, .

R1: Dear Mike: You must be doing something not right, as you already guessed, since Black Galaxy is one of the easiest black "granite" to polish. 1000 grit sounds a little low to me. You should be finishing with at least a 3500, but with 1000 you should have some remarkable shine already, although without the depth of color you're after to blend in with the rest. You're reporting that after 1000 the surface is smooth but dull. Something is wrong. Are you using enough water? Are the RPM in you Flex machine high enough? Or, quite possibly, you may be using the wrong set of diamond pads. Not all diamond pads are created equal! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Mike: Yes on all counts. Finish up with an application or two of mineral oil (baby oil will do just fine) to bring back the deep color of slate. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Granacher: If your client are heavily into take-outs and reservations (restaurant reservations, that is!), then there are no problems. Furthermore, if they have a Mediterranean culture, then again it could be a good material (Mediterranean communities love it when a stone changes over years of use and becomes -- to their saying -- "what a stone should look like"). But if your customers are American through and through, then you want to steer them away from it. As an additional comment, although as a Mediterranean myself I love the look of "used" stone, I have one particular reservation against soapstone as a material for a kitchen countertop. All distributors and fabricators encourage end-users to use mineral oil as a maintenance tool to "eliminate" all the scratches that will appear on the surface of the stone -- due to its inherent softness, and to restore the original color (it does fade over time). Mineral oil works indeed, but since both my wife an I like to use our countertop as a food handling surface, for some reason we are not excited at the idea that our food is going to end up tasting like Pennsylvania crude! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Diana: You used an acid (vinegar, acetic acid) to clean your puppy poo-poo and, of course, you've damaged your travertine surface. If you were trying to use a disinfectant, you should have used a solution of water and bleach; it does not damage calcite-based stones. The sealer -- if for some mysterious reason, was ever applied -- did not come off. It just goes to show how "useful" is has been to seal your travertine! The shine did come out, because the vinager made a mark of corrosion (etch) IN the stone (notice, I said IN, not ON). No cleaner or marble polish on the planet can repair that surface damage. Either you call a professional stone restoration contractor, or you try to do it yourself by using some user-friendly marble polishing compound. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Bel: Either you're using the wrong cleaning solution (water and dish soap, maybe; or a regular household glass cleaner), or the slab was never polished properly in the first place, or it's just a "granite" that doesn't take a high polish (was it shiny when it was first installed?) Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Scott: No it's technically not a granite, and it does need massif doses of a good-quality impregnator, which should have been applied by the fabricator.see my Do's $ Don't, Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Lewis: Giallo Antico Brown? ... Is it giallo (Yellow) or brown? No, Giallo Antico (if it's the one I know) is not a granite and, yes, it does need to be sealed real good. As far as the shine is concerned, there are topical waxes that you can get to increase the gloss (only temporarily, though). I personally don't like the idea, but my preference is only based upon the way my wife and I use our kitchen countertop, that ie. as a food handling surface. For some reasons we don't like the taste of wax! ... On the other hand, if one is heavily into take-outs and reservations, then I guess it's OK waxing your countertop. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear HA: He'll be oiling it for a week?! ... Wow ... That guy must know something that I don't know!
This very site is soaked with the tears of consumers who've been suckered into buying a honed black granite kitchen countertop! But, hey, they probably didn't know the "oiling it for a week" thing, so, maybe ... Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Jim: When a stain is coming from the bottom of the slab to the surface it can not be removed. Sorry. About your other question you can use a urethane-type finish, but that it doesn't scratch? ... Try liquid diamond!! :-) Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Robin: I have not the slightest idea about the nature of your "black residue" (I never even heard of such a thing! ... A residue left from the cutting? ...); therefore I can't tell you what you can cleat it off with. If I were you I'd call the fabricator back and demand them to clean that mysterious black residue off your stone. About routine cleaning, see my Do's & Don'ts, Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Fred: What you're reporting it's a technical impossibility, if those tiles are indeed Black Absolute, and not just some other black "granite" traded as black absolute. Give me a holler at: info@findstone.com. I may be able to help you out if you give to me directly with the information I need. Maurizio, USA  

R1: Bruce. This kind of work can be done the traditional way with hammer and chisel, or (gasp) by sand blasting. If you are interested in traditional carving, look for a book called "carving letters in stone and wood" by Michael Harvey. If you want to go the sandblasting route, look up a local monument (head stone) company, and see what information they can offer you. They should also be able to source the paint for you. Good Luck, JVC,

R1: Dear Bonnie: The particular kind of stone you're mentioning is just about magnificent, and an excellent choice as a material for a kitchen countertop (it does NOT need to be sealed). Yes, there may be a few natural fissures here and there, but that does not constitute a reason why it could easily crack if you have an under-mount sink installed. The weakest spots of the whole structure are indeed the two narrow strips in front and behind the sink, but if they're properly rodded, nothing should ever happen to them. Some fabricator "solve" the problem by making a seam in the middle of the those two strips, but,
although there are no industry standards against such a dubious technique, once everything is said and done, and besides aesthetic considerations, the fact that there are no rods constitutes a weak spot. Make sure that your fabricator rods those areas. It's critical. If not, go somewhere else. Maurizio, USA

R1: Paulvin. You do not indicate where in the world you are located, but rest assured, marble is a fairly common stone no matter where you are. Here in the states, good sculptural marble comes from Colorado (Yule marble) , Vermont ( Danby marble), Georgia, and Tennessee amongst other sources.
By the way, marble averages
around 170 to 180 lbs/ cubic foot, so a piece the size you've indicated will weigh in the nieghborhood of 260 to 270 lbs. Good luck, JVC,