| Q 8591: Ii
am looking for a product called MB1. it was recommended to me as a
good cleaner for my travertine tile that is not sealed. please give
me product information and availability in thanks, gathy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gathy: Whoever recommended my outlandish MB-1 to you is a very
good friend indeed! |
| Q 8590: Any
thoughts about Golden Beach? Is it granite? Pros/Cons. Passed the
lemon juice test. Dolly, Reply |
R1:
Dear Dolly: Did your fabricator passed the test as well?
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8589: I
did not follow your advice. We sealed our Almond Mauve granite showers,
which should not have been sealed because it is so dense. Now I am
trying to rub down the sealer which is fogged up on the surface of
the granite tiles. Is there something, other than elbow grease and
finger friction, that will correct my error?
Thanks for your help. Rose, Reply |
R1:
Dear Rose: Unfortunately a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride
is “your man”. Get the gel type (for walls) and make sure
to follow all precautionary guidelines printed on the can of the product.
I hope you won’t mind the beautiful colors that you’ll be
seeing while using the product!!
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8588: I
have read your reviews of Santa Cecelia and it is clearly stated that
a sealant needs to be applied 3 or 4 times to ensure that it doesn’t
stain. How often do you need to apply the sealant? I love the color
and pattern of this granite and find it to be very elegant. Is there
another granite that is similar to Santa Cecelia that would be less
porous? Thanks, Bill, Reply |
R1:
Dear Bill: “I have read your reviews of Santa Cecelia and it
is clearly stated that a sealant needs to be applied 3 or 4 times
to ensure that it doesn’t stain.
Maybe they are old reviews. Things do change, and those reviews may
make reference to the technology of yesteryear impregnating sealer.
While there may still be many products that will require those many
applications, there are now impregnating sealers, like my outlandish
MB-4, that will require only two applications. “How often do
you need to apply the sealant?
It all depends on the make of the sealer. Old formulations may have
to be re-applied once every couple of years or so. Products in the
same class of my MB-4 can easily go 10 years or better in indoor installations.
“Is there another granite that is similar to Santa Cecelia that
would be less porous?
Sure: a Santa Cecilia that was resined by the factory! Most likely,
that wouldn’t require any sealing at all! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8587: Is
Spectrolite a good choice for kitchen counters?
I was hoping for slabs – are they available in Long Island NY?
Does it need any special treatment – is it more breakable due
to large grains? Does it require sealing? Any additional advice would
be appreciated. My GC showed me a small sample of Spectrolite, he
called it blue black. bmystar, Reply |
R1:
Dear Bmystar: (some name! :)) Spectrolite??
The only Spectrolite I know is a gemstone that belongs to the Plagioclase
Feldspar Group, a series of mixtures of sodium and calcium aluminum
silicates. It is also closely related to labradorite, which is yet
another gemstone.
Furthermore, “Spectrolite emits a powerful light energy and is
said to be a gemstone of transformation and utilization of the subconscious
mind. It attracts strength and provided vitality. The stone also provides
clarity to the inner self and enhances patience. With its shifting
sheen of blues, greens and yellow can be seen as a colorful ‘shield’
against auric weakness.” Now, how do you like that?! :-)
Yes, I know, there’s a “granite” that for some daring
flight of imagination someone decided to dub Spectrolite, but, believe
you me, there’s not one iota of real Spectrolite in it! Good
stuff, though – if the slab is a good grade. No need to seal
that stuff, that’s for sure!
At any rate, and further answering to your question, for starters
I’m always kinda leery when I hear that there’s a GC involved
in between … but that is not even the point. The real point is
that you’re starting your stone adventure with the wrong foot.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8586: We
are having Juparana Bordeaux installed in our kitchen this week. The
fabricator said that because the slabs are already coated with a resin,
they will not need to be sealed. He said you can see the resin by
looking at the edges of the granite, where there is a clear demarcation
between a shiny resin-like coating and the natural rough edge of the
granite. Does this type of granite need to be sealed? If so, and the
fabricator does not do it, can it be done after installation? Is there
any problem with sealing a stone that has been coated with resin?
Thanks so much for any timely information!! YH, Reply |
| R1:
Dear YH: Your fabricator is right: a resined slab does not need to
be sealed. Bear in mind that a sealer for stone is always a below-surface
product – never a topical; therefore it needs to be absorbed
by the stone to go below its surface. A resined slab wouldn’t
absorb a darn thing and, consequently, the application of a sealer
would turn out to be only an aggravating waste of time and money.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8585: I
have 1000 sq. ft. of 18X18 travertine flooring and I am wanting to
change the grout color. The tile spacing is 1/16" and is filled
with a non-sanded Custom Building Products grout. Part of the floor
has been sealed with an impregenator and part is unsealed. Are there
any grout colorants that are recommended for use with travertine?
Do I need to be concerned with the travertine absorbing the colorant?
Thanks, Jeff, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jeff: Do I need to be concerned with the travertine absorbing
the colorant?
Yes you do, and very much so. The impregnator would do nothing to
prevent the absorption of the coloring agent, because it would be
absorbed not from the top of the tile, but from its sides.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8584: We
recently resurfaced our floors with a dullish and somewhat poreish
finished travertine tile. After the sealant (the label stated it was
for stone finishes) was applied, the tile got more of a wet look and
the marbling details were enhanced, which actually looked quite nice.
The sealant was applied with a roller. We however began to noticed
smudges throughout the area, mopping did nothing to remove them, Some
places even were a bit "sticky" even after more than 100
hours of drying time! After complaining, the flooring installer buffed
the area and removed much of the excess "goo", however some
residue still remains, as per the sticky stuff the buffer could not
get to, the installer says it sometime take 3 months to completely
dry. That statement sounds absurd to me he wants me to pay off the
balanced owe to him, but I am to refusing to do so until my I am completely
satisfied with the job. Shall I have him rebuff the areas in need?
Or must he re-sand the entire area and reseal the floors with a particular
kind of sealant If buffed, my concern will be that the initial sealant
will be removed thus exposing our flooring. Please provide me with
your valuable advice so that I may have this problem rectified. Many
Thanks! RMM, Reply |
R1:
Dear RMM: The following is an excerpt from my latest article: The
Twenty-Year Problem:
The general perception associated to the word, sealer is that of an
impenetrable armor, some sort of cocoon that will envelop whatever
is to be protected from whatever enemy and turn it into a bullet-proof
material. A sealer is also perceived like something to polish/finish
surfaces, as well as filling all little imperfections on them.
Does a sealer for
stone meet these perceptions?
Not even one!
All sealers for stone,
better defined as impregnators, are exclusively below-surface products.
They will NOT envelope the stone in a cocoon; they will NOT offer
one iota of protection to the surface of the stone; they will NOT
improve or alter in any possible way, shape or form the finish produced
by the factory; they will NOT fill even the smallest nick, pit or
fissure.
So then, what on earth
do they do?
They will get absorbed
by the stone (when possible – which is seldom the case with
travertine) and the solid part of the product will stay in, while
the carrier (water or mineral solvent) will evaporate out of it.
The solid part inside the stone (a resin of sorts) will clog the
pores of the stone, thus dramatically reducing its absorbency rate.
End of the list of performances!
The most important phase of the application of an impregnating sealer
is the total removal of every residue of the product from the surface
of the stone, before it dries, until such surface is once again
totally bare and exactly as it were before the application of the
sealer.
Now that we’ve established what kind of idiots you’ve
been surrounded by so far, the only thing that I can add is that
stone is not polished by buffing it or sealing it. It is only polished
mechanically, by abrasion and friction like gemstone.
Now that you know that, get rid of all the idiots you’ve been
dealing with and get hold of a bona fide stone restoration contractor
who will take care of removing all the stupid sealer and actually
polish your travertine to your expectations.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a
professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks
on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior
decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8584: We're
thinking of using Typhoon Green granite from Brazil for our kitchen
countertops. Any thoughts? Is this a good choice, density- and absorption-wise?
Would it make a difference if it were honed or polished? Thanks, Bita,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Bita: Polished would be easier to clean, but hone-finished could
still be enjoyable if properly treated with a good-quality stone color
enhancer like my outlandish MB-6 instead of an impregnating sealer.
However, allow me to tell you that you’re starting your “stone
adventure” with the wrong foot.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8583: Hi,
I like the look of Golden Butterfly granite. I was wondering how it
would stand up in the kitchen. ie, staining, durability, etc. Please
be truthful. I can take it. Reply |
R1:
Dear Inquirer: (got a name? :-))
I’m glad to hear that you can take it!
This gives me I hope that you will understand the true meaning of
what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other
inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of
“granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s
human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a
certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself
and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8582: My
wife left a cut onion on the cutting board on our newly installed
granite and it has left a yellowish brown stain. Our granite is Pepperino
which is a gray/white color sprinkled with gray and back specks. What
is the best way to get this stain out ? she was thinking of bleaching
it . She put some oxyclean on it. There still is a light yellow shadow
there. The granite has been sealed with 511 Impregnator. And what
shouldn't she put on it. thanks Mr Chan, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mr. Chan: You can’t remove an imbedded stain by cleaning
the surface of the stone, no matter with what! A stain must be poulticed
out. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8581: Still
learning from your great database but had a question I didn't see
answered. We are trying to go as "natural" as possible and
avoid both resin (by finding a high quality stone) and sealer (by
choosing dense, nonporous stone) but am realizing I don't know the
difference between "doctored" which Maurizio says is bad,
and resin, which he says is good. Can you clarify the difference and
how we would know if something has been "doctored", as we
clearly don't want that! :) Thanks!!! Ellen, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ellen: There’s quite a difference between resining and doctoring.
Resining is a procedure meant to rectify natural flaws in the stone,
such as fissures, pits, etc. by filling them flush with an epoxy resin.
Resining does not change the look of the stone and is not meant to
make it appear as if it were something different.
Doctoring does exactly that, however. It tries to make the stone appear
something that it is not. One of the most popular examples is the
doctoring of “black” Zimbabwe “granite”. As you
probably know, the final depth of color of any given stone is obtained
by polishing it mechanically to its maximum potential. Well, Zimbabwe
is a stone that no matter how much you polish it will never become
black; just a dark gray. To make it more “sellable” some
unscrupulous manufacturers doctor it with some sort of black shoe-shine;
a plain makeup, that is, to make it appear black. Needless to say,
the makeup will eventually give both due to wear and tear and chemical
damages, and the stone will eventually appear for what it actually
is.
Bottom line, resining is meant to improve the characteristic of a
stone, and to a certain extent it does accomplish that. Doctoring
is just a plain full-fledged consumer fraud.
Having said all that now let me tell you something else: you’re
starting your “stone adventure” with the wrong foot!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8580: In
my kitchen, I’m planning on putting in cinnamon colored cabinetry
with black granite counter tops. I love the look of warm colored slate
tile. Do you think that is a contrast of style to put more elegant
granite with rustic slate flooring? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Monet:
I’m strictly a mechanic and 25% colorblind to boot. Please leave
me out of the decoration business!
Now, about your question, if you think that the combination you have
in mind will make you happy, go for it!
For as long as you will get slate look-alike porcelain tiles, that
is … You do NOT want real slate as flooring material anywhere
in the whole house – let alone the kitchen!!
As far as the black granite countertop is concerned, make darn sure
that you get the right fabricator! Here’s a comment I have for
you about black granite:
“BLACK ABSOLUTE GRANITE
Let’s start by saying that the only black mercantile granite
that has the legal right to be called “Black Absolute” is
the one coming from South Africa. However, in real life, when one
mentions “Black Absolute Granite” one’s talking about
a huge variety of stones coming a little bit from all over the planet,
each and every one of them [b]not[/b] a geological granite by a long
shot, and each and every one of them with different characteristics.
If that wasn’t confusing enough, each and every one of them are
processed with even if so slightly methods – which again can
make a difference.
There used to be three possibilities to explain the problems that
you are experiencing, which are here listed in order of probability
(the first being the most probable):
The fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to it believing that
it’s granite. No impregnator/sealer will ever be absorbed by
black granite; therefore it won’t do the first thing about doing
what’s designed to do, which is prevent stains. (What you have
are NOT stains, and no impregnator/sealer on the planet can prevent
those.) Many a sealer turn out to be sensitive to acids; hence the
“mysterious etching.” Not on the stone, rather on the sealer
that had no business being there.
The slab had been “doctored” by the factory by applying
some sort of black shoe shine in order to make it “blacker”
and, therefore more “sellable.” After a while the “shoe
shine” will begin etching as it gets eaten away by acidic spills.
The true color of the stone is dark gray.
It is one of those as-rare-as-a-white-fly “mutt” stones
with some calcite binders in it. In this case it is actually the stone
that gets etched.
In the last couple of years there’s been a change in the scenario
above. Another possibility has entered the scene:
4. Certain manufacturers
apply some sort of protective wax to the slabs. It is not actual
“doctoring,” since there’s no alteration to the color
of the stone, but the result is the same as if the slab had been
“doctored” with the “shoe-shine.”
Finally, case 3 above
is not as rare as it used to be anymore. At least a couple of “Black
Absolute Granites” allegedly from India and China entered the
scene recently and are terrible “mutt” stones. Since they
are cheap (to the importers) they push them like crazy at full black
absolute granite prices.
Having said all that,
the remedy to the points 1, 2 and 4 is to remove whatever it is
that’s sitting on the stone surface, by either stripping it
chemically by soaking it with Methylene Chloride, or mechanically,
by rubbing on the stone surface a polishing compound for marble
(NOT for granite!) with a little bit of water.
Case 3 is terminal.
All things considered,
black granite – which should be considered among the most enjoyable
materials as a kitchen countertop – has made it out my own
list of recommended stones.
Until the industry
will not straighten its act up by becoming serious about the classification
of all the different granites on the marketplace and dictate strict
rules and guidelines about their characteristics and implied guarantees
to the consumers, my position is going to be that from now on.
A good and reputable fabricator is the key factor in the whole picture.
Therefore shop the man, not the stone. They’ll shop the stone
for you!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8579: We
want to put travertine marble in our kitchen and would like to know
if there is any difference between Italian and Mexican travertine
marble? This is our retirement home and would not have kids or pets
on a daily basis in the home. Thank you for your response. Reply |
R1:
Dear Gladys: would like to know if there is any difference between
Italian and Mexican travertine marble?
Yep: one speaks Italian and the other one speaks Spanish! LOL
Joking aside, because of the way it was formed – which is similar
all over the world travertine is pretty much the same, no matter where
it comes from. The stone itself, that it.
What I mean is that travertine – due to its inherent natural
holes – needs to be heavily processed by properly applying cementitious
filler in the holes. Apparently the Italians have an edge on that
technology and in general there are less report of filler failure
is the stone has been processed in Italy – no matter where it
was originally quarried.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8578: I
was planning oto use this materail in our gym floor and bathroom floors
and walls. I wanted to know how indiana limestone stands up to soap
and confditioners. I belieeve it is not recommended for bathrooms
due to its porousity. Could you advise please, Yasmin, Reply |
R1:
Dear Yasmin: I’m not a fan of limestone in general, because there
are all too many limestones out there with characteristics that are
miles apart from one another. However, in cases like this where a
specific limestone I’m familiar with is mentioned, I can be more
“forgiving”.
Indiana limestone is good material and if properly sealed and cared
for will give you many years of enjoyment.
It’s a very good thing that you’re concerning yourself with
possible issues before making the selection of your stone, because
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day
out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and
it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8577: How
do I restore marble surfacte to a shiny surface? Reply |
R1:
Dear David: You don’t! Stone refinishing is a very demanding
craft that implies knowledge of stone and years of practice and accumulated
experience.
Whatever your project is, your only option is to hire a bona fide
stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish
your stone. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing
as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a
professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks
on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could
you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8576: I
had Fiorito Light Granite installed last week. They finished at 800pm.
Before they left, they put what they called a sealer on it and used
00 steel wool and a razor blade to clean it as they wiped the sealer.
We left immediately for four days. When I got back home in the daylight
and opened my blinds and let in a bright cross light, I saw dull dark
spots all over it. It looks dirty in those spots. I used a microfiber
cloth and attemped to polish it and clean it, although I did not see
how it could be dirty after what the installer had done. The spots
are still there. They are random sizes from pencil eraser size and
shape to dime size irregular all over the surface. Needless to say,
I am upset by the appearance. When viewed looking straight down with
ceiling lights on, they are not visible. When I wipe the microfiber
cloth over the surface, it seems like I feel some dragging on the
surface. I am calling the company, but would like your opinion.
Thanks for your advice, Jo Ann, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jo Ann: It’s hard to understand what the real problem is
going by your description, but if I have to venture a guess, those
un-polished spots are in the stone itself. They may be typical of
that particular class of stones, but they may also due to the possibility
that your countertop was cut out of a low-grading slab.
In either case if my diagnosis is right there’s absolutely nothing
that you can do rectify what should be considered natural flaws.Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8575: We
just ordered polished verde butterfly granite for our kitchen countertop.
Does it need to be sealed? The supplier told me all granite needs
to be sealed. I have read your column so I know not to seal the polished
nero absoluto countertops in the bathrooms. Thank you for the advice.
Kate, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kate:
Does it need to be sealed?
No, it does not. You actually do NOT want it sealed.
The supplier told me all granite needs to be sealed.
While they may be right about granite, why don’t you ask them
if Charnockite needs to be sealed, too? (That’s what your stone
is – not granite.)
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8574: THE
GROUTING ON MY MARBLE AND TILE FLOORS IS TURNING A CHALKY WHITE WITH
POWDER. THE GROUTING IS A CHOC. BROWN. CAN U TELL ME WHAT TO DO. JA,
Reply |
R1:
Dear JA: WE LIVE BY THE OCEAN
Good for you! But just out of curiosity what has that got to do with
your grout probem??...
Either your setter used too much water while mixing it, or it was
just a bad batch of grout. (The latter is the most likely explanation.)
Have the grout removed and replaced.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8573: We
have just had Volga Blue installed on our kitchen counters. Should
this type of granite be sealed? What do you recommend we clean it
with? Thank you for your time. -Stacy, Reply |
R1:
Dear Stacey:
I wish that all queries were that easy! Should this type of granite
be sealed?
Don’t even think about it! What do you recommend we clean it
with? Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 8572: We
have just had "Tan Brown" Granite Tile Countertops put in
our Kitchen. I have read many of your readers questions and your answers
but am a little confused. I don't know if the tiles have been sealed
or need to be sealed. Also what should I use to clean them daily and
finally I have seen polishing product on the market for granite, are
they a good idea? Thanks for any help you can give me, Judy, Reply |
R1:
Dear Judy: Typically Tan Brown is a stone that does not require any
saeling, but if you want to feel comfortable about it does the following:
spill some water in a couple of spots of your countertop, let it dwell
for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which
the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than
the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer.
If not, don’t bother.
As for routine care, the issue of what you’ll be doing day in
and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself
and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8571: Can
you give me information of the granite Juperana Lapidus? Is it appropriate
for kitchens and what type of sealant should be used?, Reply |
R1:
Dear Inquirer: If it is a good grading slab, then yes, it is good
choice. If it was resined by the factory, then most likely it will
not need to be sealed; if not it will. All this to make you understand
that you’re starting off with … the wrong foot! :-)
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8570: I
just found your website and read through every question and answer.
How I wish I had found this before buying granite - I had no idea
there was so much to know about this material! A few times in the
replies it was mentioned that at the end of this site would be some
information about cleaners and such, but I never found any. Is there
a website of yours that has this info? I have a slab granite that
was installed about 10 months ago. It is a gorgeous granite which
I believe is called Crystal Wave. After reading this website, I certainly
want to know whether or not I have chosen a "good granite"
for a kitchen since some stones obviously are more
porous that others. I have not had the staining problems I hear from
others, but I am reassured to know that there are solutions to some
of these problems in case they ever come up for me. The pattern in
my stone is so "busy" that stains would be hard to notice
anyway. I do notice what might be water spots...or may just be the
veins of the stone looking a bit etched - I am not sure. Those "markings"
are along the design/veins of the stone and can really only be seen
when direct sunlight hits or when looking right at eye level. They
may have been there since installation, but I have only noticed them
recently (direct sunlight through my windows this time of year). I
want to know how to care for my countertops to keep them beautiful
for many years to come. I got some cleaners and polishes (a kit from
Stone Care International) but I am reluctant to do much until I have
more information. Oh... One seam has separated just slightly, so I
am now guessing that it is pretty critical for the company to come
out and repair that. True?
Thanks for this question/answer service, I am very impressed! Noreen,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Noreen: I never heard about that particular stone – at least
not under that name.
The dull veins are a characteristic of many stone. Basically they
are different minerals that because of their lack of a crystalline
structure can’t take a polish like the rest of the stone can.
To find out if your stone needs to be sealed do this: spill some water
in a couple of spots of your countertop, let it dwell for 10 minutes
or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water
has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest.
If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If
not, don’t bother.
Finally, I’m sure you will understand that the issue of what
you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more
important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8569: I
had Juparana Mocha counter tops installed in three bathrooms a little
over a year ago. They still look beautiful except for a circular hard
water deposit that is forming at the base of the tap that turns the
hot water on at each sink. There is no deposit at the base of the
center spigot or the cold water tap. The product that I use to remove
hard water deposits on other surfaces says it is not to be used on
natural stone. Can you recommend a product or a process to remove
this? Thank you very much! Mary, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary: Can you recommend a product or a process to remove this?
I sure can! And at my online stores we have a bottle of MB-3 with
your name written all over it! :-) Before you apply the product (following
the directions printed on the back of the bottle) I would suggest
that you remove the worst of the deposit with a brand-new razor blade.
MB-3 will finish the job. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8568: What
will happens to the grout line when you install 7.5"X7.5"
Tiles in the shower area with 1/4 spaces between tiles using Non-sanded
for grout? What will be the results over time? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: Using sand-less grout in a ¼” grout gap
is a risky proposition. It can be done, but the grout has to be mixed
and applied quite differently than usual, or else it will crack as
it cures and eventually come off. And you do [b]NOT[/b] want that
inside a shower stall!
That is why, unless
you have a tile setter that knows the “secret” to a successful
application of sand-less grout in wide gaps, it is advisable to
use its sanded counterpart.
Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8567: I
have honed Ceasar Stone for my counter tops in my kitchen and bathroom.
It is like in color(limestone looking) What is the best way to clean
these surfaces? Rik Lalim, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rik: Considering that engineered stone is 94% t0 96% natural
stone sand (mixed with 4% to 6% epoxy resin) the same specialty products
for natural stone are in order. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8566: Hi,
my name is Mercy in Miami; I was reading through your Q&A and
couldn't find an answer to this. I am going to install honed travertine
tile in my house and need to know if I need to seal it before installing
or after and which is the best sealant to prevent stain and give it
a good shine. Thank you. Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mercy:
If you want your travertine nice and shiny, why did you buy it with
a honed-finish instead of polished?
What is your perception of the performance of a sealer for stone?
Let me guess:
it will protect the surface of my tiles;
it will make them shiny;
it will prevent stains.
I’m sorry to bust your bubble, but a sealer for stone will NOT
provide one iota of protection to the surface of your stone, since
it’s a below-surface, penetrating product and the most important
phase of its application is to make sure that every residue of the
product is removed from the surface of the stone. It will NOT alter
in any way, shape or form the finish of your stone; at the end of
the sealing job you will not see the tiniest difference over the factory
finish. It is not on the surface, remember?
It will prevent stains, but in the case of travertine is not something
(staining) that happens every day and easily. Contrary to popular
and widespread misconception, travertine is not very porous. It’s
actually the densest stone among the calcite-based ones.
Finally, a sealer for stone will NOT prevent “stains” one
bit. I’m talking about what people refer to as “water stains”
or “water rings”, which are anything but stains. They are
surface damages (etching marks that is) that every pH active spill
you can think of will make just about instantly by simply becoming
in touch with the surface of the stone. And there is nothing you can
do or apply on it to prevent those “stains”.
Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8565: We
just moved into a new house that has new black granite countertops.
I'm not sure the name of the granite, but it's blacker than black.
There are a two big circles on our granite that look cloudy. During
the day you don't notice them, but at night it's very noticeable with
the light shining down on them. We had the company that installed
them come out and buff the granite. It did help some, but the cloudy
spots are still there. Is it normal to have some cloudy spots in your
black granite, or should I ask them to replace it. Thanks for your
help. Emma, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Emma: Is it normal to have some cloudy spots in your black granite
No, it is not normal. The question is: what are those discolorations?
Considering that you describe your stone blacker than black, it could
be that it was doctored by the factory, and now, somehow, the shoeshine
is coming off. But it could be something else less serious or something
else more serious
To find out what the real problem is, your best bet if to consult
with a local stone restoration professional. Hopefully, there may
not be the need to replace the countertop.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8564: I'm
hoping you can help me. My husband and I just installed a granite
countertop (color was called Castilla Mocha--black and white with
some pinkish spots). We got it from a do-it-yourself granite store.
They gave us some Italian Sealer to seal it with, but we don't seem
to be having much luck. We sealed it 4 or five times and it appeared
to be sealed, so we waxed it. A
couple days ago some strawberries were left on the counter and their
juice left a stain. I was able to remove most of it, but there is
still a little pink left that I can't get out. Here are my questions...
1. Do you have a recommendation for
a good sealer (and do I indeed need to seal the counter again)?
2. Will anything remove the last of the strawberry stain?
Thanks for your help. Diana, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Diana: After your finish removing the stain I would seal it again
another couple of times, but keep in mind that no sealer is going
to guarantee 100% stain protection. If you’ll leave highly-staining
items like strawberries, margarine, etc, sitting for a long time on
your countertop, it will get stained again.
At any rate, let’s
remove the stain first. It’s going to be easy, since we’re
dealing with an organic stain. How to go about that? Maurizio, Expert
Panelist
|
| Q 8563: We
would like to put Jerusalem Gold limestone around a swimming pool
but have been advised against it, say it would dry and flake is this
correct. Many thanks, Gary, Reply |
R1:
Dear Gary:
say it would dry Well, I sure hope so I mean, do you want it keep
it wet all the time??! :)
and flake Look at the bright side: you can always put them flakes
in your breakfast bowl and get all the intake of calcium that your
bones need!! :-) It’s a crock of crap. Jerusalem is among the
best limestone available, providing that’s a good grading. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8562: I
am trying to build a slate countertop outside by my BBQ. I have the
frame and the plywood up and ready but am trying to figure out to
place the edge tiles on since I can not find any slate tile prefabricated
as a v-cap. the plywood is curved mimicking the design of the countertop
but I can not adhere the slate tile to plywood alone... Any ideas?
Help, Reply |
R1:
Dear Amy: You’re a lucky gal and you don’t even know it!
Regardless of the installation techniques, you do NOT want a BBQ slate
countertop!!
Like I said, you’re very lucky: you came in just in time to get
my answer before you actually installed that stone! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8561: We
just had most of our house laid with Travertine,18x18 on the diagonal.
After the installers left I started to clean the floors. Scrapping
and hand buffing the residue from grout off the floor I found some
small holes in a few tiles. What is recommendation on fixing this
problem? Thank you Larry, Reply |
R1:
Dear Larry: That’s easy! Get a tube of almond colored caulk (yes,
you’ve heard me right; you can get the small ones that look like
a toothpaste tube), squeeze it inside the holes, push it deep inside
using a slightly wet flexible putty knife, shave the excess with a
brand-new razor blade and then clean all around it (making sure no
to touch the filled hole) with your index finger wrapped on damp piece
of terry cloth. Don’t walk on those filled holed for at least
24 hours. Done! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8560: Just
installed gorgeous slabs of Pietra Di Cordosa in my kitchen. Because
I wanted a deeper/darker yet matte look my fabricator "rubbed"
AGER TENAX all over the schist....Now I have varying levels of color
which looks like partially wet and partially dry random spots (large
and small) all over the counter tops...your advice more than welcome!!
thanks for your help! MAW, Reply |
R1:
Dear Margaret: Ouch!!
It’s a good thing that I know as a fact that the Ager is an excellent
product! I assume that your installer applied it only once. Considering
how porous Pietra di Cardosa is, it should be applied at least three
times, waiting at least 24 hours in between applications. Eventually
it will even out. Now remember, it’s never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8559: Please
help! I just installed Chrystal Gold granite countertops. I am so
confused as to how to clean them. What do you recommend? Thank you!,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tracey: That’s an easy one! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8558: We
are planning to use Granite on our kitchen counters. I have read the
questions and answers, and find it very informative. However, no one
has written about Colombo Juprana per se. Is this a good choice for
the counter tops, or is it too porous? I would certainly appreciate
any response. Thank you, Ellen, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ellen: Juparana Colombo could be a good choice, if it’s
a good grading slab, if it was resined by the factory, etc., etc.
through a few more ifs, which, BTW, are common to any other granite
and mercantile granite out there. In other words, you’re starting
your “granite adventure” with the wrong foot! :-)
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8557: I’m
the cleaner lady, While cleaning this house, we damage this lime stone
marble counter, in the master bathroom, didn’t carry liability
insurance, we agreed I will pay by keep cleaning their house, with
out pay, until I cover the cost for a replacement witch is of $ 8.500.00,
after a few months (maybe 5) they decided to sell the house, and never
change this marble, they want me to continue cleaning now their new
house until the $8500.00 are cover. Should I? Maria, Reply |
R1:
Dear Maria: I will go with assumption that you damaged the limestone
by using a wrong cleaning product. (Correct me if I’m wrong,
because what follows is geared to this assumption of mine. If you
cracked it, then it’s a different story, but still)
As a resident (alleged) expert at findstone.com I lean in favor of
the consumers most of the time. But most of the time doesn’t
mean all the time, does it?
In fact, if a consumer is wrong, I say so. The finish of that limestone
countertop could have been satisfactorily repaired with a few hundred
bucks, with no need for replacement whatsoever. (In my contracting
day I bailed out a few cleaning people with problems like yours for
no compensation or just the mere reimbursement of my traveling costs;
just a fellow contractor to another fellow contractor. Hey, shit happens!)
Most likely the homeowner knew that (that is why they never bothered
replacing the countertop), but they took advantage of the situation
by demanding that you slave yourself $8,500.00 worth for them, even
in their new home! People like that make me sick to my stomach. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8556: Hi,
We just bought a new house that has unpolished slate tile floors and
also a black granite with silver/blue flecks. What is the best way
to clean these-I have been using water only so far, and how to treat
them? They are in good condition right now, except the slate looks
a little dry/dusty. Thanks, Leigh, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Leigh: Starting with your slate floor, I can’t think of
any better treatment than the application of a good quality stone
color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6. It will take care of the dry/dusty
look quite effectively. If you want to see how your floor will look
like after you apply the color-enhancer, look at it when it’s
wet. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8555: We
are remodeling our kitchen and would like your opinion on our granite
selections for durability, stain resistance and hardness. The granite
selections are Black Galaxy and Gallo Florence. Should we have the
granite sealed? What region(s) do these granite selections come from?
If more than one region, is a certain region preferred? Any other
words of advice? Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: I have Black Galaxy in my own kitchen for over 9 years
already. (I never sealed it, of course, not even with my own outlandish
MB-4!) But then again, it was a top-notch slab (there are almost a
dozen different quarries in India (all from the same region) producing
Black Galaxy. Some of them are sublime crap. The Giallo Florence,
quarried in Brazil, as a different animal altogether, and again, it
could be good or it could be bad. What determines that? The fabricator!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8554: We
were planning to install Mocha Creme Limestone for the floor of our
master bathroom, including the floor of the shower. But I'm worried
after reading about limestone on your site... what should I do? Best
regards, Catherine, Reply |
R1:
Dear Catherine: what should I do?
Why do you ask? The answer is quite simple: don’t use limestone
in a shower stall. If you like the mute look of limestone, find a
marble of a similar color and have it honed down to the same mute
look as limestone.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8553: We
just purchased costa esmerelda for our kitchen counters. We have had
some issues with our slabs including two surface hairline cracks.
The fabricator came back and sanded the cracks so that to the touch,
they are smooth. The granite was sealed and a netting placed on the
back when we purchased it from the yard. Is this typical for Costa
esmerelda? Is it typically a fragile granite? How do those surface
cracks happen? Will this happen again now that it is installed? How
strong is this granite? How much weight can be put on it? We have
a espresso machine that is 30 lbs. Is that a problem? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Trish: I really don’t know why the allow to call Costa Esmeralda
granite!...
But that’s not the point. I don’t know much about that material,
but what I do know is that any crack (hairline or otherwise) are the
sole responsibility of the fabricator, not the stone. I also know
that you can “repair” hairline cracks by sanding them down.
As for the rest of your questions, like I said before I don’t
know much about this particular stone (nobody knows, I’m afraid!);
therefore I don’t have any meaningful answer for you. Sorry.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8552: Ordered
WALNUT Travertine as the color and material for my fireplace surround
panels. However the color is not as BROWN as I thought it would be.
Color seems to be more of a taupe. Any way to get the color darker
???? PAUL, Reply |
R1:
Dear Paul: Trying to stain stone like you’d be doing with wood
is a losing proposition most the times, due to the fact that, somehow,
stone does not absorb the staining agent evenly and therefore the
final result is a blotchy eyesore.
Wet your stone with some water and see what it looks like. If it get
any darker with water, then the application of a good-quality stone
color enhancer like MB-6 will give you that depth of color on a permanent
basis. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the
proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be
doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Finalist |
| Q 8551: How
do I go about ordering some of Maurizio's guidelines and his stone
care products on your website? When I go to those pages I can't find
any link to click on that brings me to an order page where I can specify
which products I want to order or which guidelines I want to order
and download. There is only a link to make the payment. In the few
days we will be deciding for or against having 2000 sq. ft. of travertine
flooring installed with granite accents in our house and if we do
have it installed we must decide whether or not we will have it sealed
(our stone installer insists that it must be sealed with his super
heavy duty impregnator sealant that he concocts himself or else our
travertine floors will be ruined by our four children and we will
be spending big bucks to have him restore them in a couple of years--he
charges $1.50 per sq. foot to apply this sealer, which he buffs after
application to harden it.) Charlene, Reply |
R1:
Dear Charlene: Many thanks for you interest in my guidelines and products.
It is not that I have any problem with the home-brewed $1.50 a foot
concoction that your installer is planning to apply to your stone;
the problem that I have is the principle of it [b]must[/b] be sealed
it or else! In other words, the problem that I have is the sealer
that your installer has in his brain!
The coliseum in Rome is made of travertine and I highly doubt that
the Ancient Romans ever applied an impregnating sealer to it some
2500 years ago!
Besides, sealers for stone will not offer one iota of protection to
the surface of the stone since they are all below-surface products.
They only reduce the absorbency rate of the stone, which in the case
of travertine is quite limited already. In fact, contrary to popular
misconception, travertine is the densest among all calcite based stones
and especially if polished it does not absorb a darn thing, including
the sealer. The problems that you will have with travertine (especially
if polished) and your children are spills that will produce water
stains or water rings. They are not stains at all; they’re rather
marks of corrosion (etching marks) that pH active spills will produce
by just becoming in touch with the stone. Nothing not even the home-brewed
sealer of your installer – can prevent those kinds of surface
damages, which, together with regular wear and tear, are the only
responsible for stone resurfacing interventions.
Save yourself a buck and half a foot, and tell your installer to go
seal his sister’s travertine!
The issue of what
you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more
important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8550: We
just bit the bullet and replaced our Formica Kitchen counters with
Granite. Unfortunately we experienced a few problems and am looking
for some insight.
We have an L shaped counter which had a seam and therefore two adjoining
pieces. The problem with these two pieces was that they differed in
color and direction of the grain. I feel they should have done a better
job in matching these pieces. I had the owner come to look at this
and he is telling me that this is normal and that you cannot guarantee
consistency. My issue is that it could have been done better but the
fabricator did not want to waste more material by rotating the cut
of the L which would have better matched the grain. In addition, they
had chipped a piece of the front ogee edge and filled it with epoxy.
He also said this is normal. I had two other granite shops come look
at the job and they both said it was not done as it should have been.
I had the others come look at the job to educate myself. They both
commented that their cutter would have done a better job matching
the pieces. When I informed the owner that I called for a second opinion
he became very angry and demanded a statement in writing from them.
I do not feel this gentleman is going to fix my problem to my satisfaction
and would really like him to take the counters back and I will go
elsewhere. In order to fix the problem correctly he would have to
cut two more slabs and he is not going to do that. My opinion is that
his cutter did a poor job and I am paying for that. What do you feel
my options are here? Reply |
R1:
Dear Eric: Let me take a wild guess: when you started thinking about
a granite countertop you began by deciding which granite you wanted
to have. You shopped around for granites trying to find out which
one was more suitable as material for a kitchen countertop, and so
on, and eventually you selected whatever stone you liked. Then –
and only then – you decided to shop for a fabricator Now you’re
complaining about the finished product. However, your complaint –
as usual has nothing to do with the stone, but with the way it was
handled. In other words, the human factor is the key to the whole
thing. In fact, [b]now[/b] you’re shopping around for a fabricator
to tell you that the first guy did a poor job
Don’t you think that, perhaps, you should have done your shopping
starting from the fabricator, and then, only then, finalizing the
stone?
Honestly, what can you expect me to say at this point?
There are no precise industry standards on how to properly cut and
seam; only recommendations. If the difference between the pieces of
slab is very noticeable get a few pictures, get a second fabricator
willing to spend a day in court as your expert witness, get a lawyer
to file a law suit and … keep your fingers crossed! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8549: I
saw a picture of a countertop made with cream concrete and love the
look. Because we have a young toddler I am nervous of using this material
due to staining. I can’t seem to find a cream granite without
much pattern….very simple. Is there one you can recommend? Thank
you, Marni, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marni: None that I can think of. In the meantime, what I do know
is that you do NOT want no concrete countertop in your kitchen!! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8548: Hello,
I just had new granite counter tops put in by my builder. He temporarily
placed my kitchen faucet in , but they used plumbers putty under the
collar (rectangular). I will be actually installing a non collared
faucet , the main faucet , sprayer and handle are separate. Will the
plumbers putty stain the granite that quickly 1-2 days? I am ready
to run over there and rip out the faucet! Giallo Napolitiane (spelling
may not be correct). thanks Sue, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: Plumber putty will stain your granite in a matter of 5 minutes,
let alone 1 or 2 days! However, if your slab had been resined by the
factory or properly sealed with an impregnator by the fabricator,
it just might not. Now remember, it’s never too early to think
about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll
be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than
the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8547: I
have major problem with classic travertine stone that i installed
on my kitchen and living room. Although I was sealed after installations,
all the grouts are coming out from the pores in many many locations.
It is almost one month since the installation and it is too early
to have that kind of problem. I knew travertine is porous stone, but
not like that! I need some advice about what to do with tiles that
have all these holes?? Please help. Toubi, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Toubi: “Although It was sealed after installations, all
the grouts are coming out from the pores in many locations. Can you
please explain to me why you relate the sealing with the fact that
the factory filler is coming off? Do you really think for a minute
that a sealer for stone would offer any kind of protection to the
surface of your travertine by keeping the filler in place??
I knew travertine
is porous stone, but not like that! May I ask you who gave you the
stupid idea that travertine is a very porous stone?? FYI travertine
is the densest among all calcite-based rocks, but, regardless, what
has to (alleged) porosity of the stone got to do with the fact that
you’ve got some inferior-quality tiles and, because of that,
the filler is coming off?? I need some advice about what to do with
tiles that have all these holes?? Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8546: I
have New Venetian Gold for my kitchen counter. Does it need to be
sealed? Nina Kim, Reply |
R1:
Dear Nina: It depends: if the slab was resined by the factory it probably
does not need to be sealed, but if it wasn’t, then it probably
will. How to find out?
Spill some water on a couple of spots of your countertop, let it dwell
for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which
the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than
the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer
like my outlandish MB-4. If not, don’t bother.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8545: What
an amazing site, I wish I read it before purchasing the granite for
my kitchen. We have a black absolute "granite" which looked
amazing when the installer put it in. The last thing he did what put
clear liquid on it, (sealer?) and told us not to touch it for 24 hours,
at that time, take paper towels and soap and water to wipe the counters
clean. After cleaning them, they didn't appear to have a shiny look
to them, they looked filmy and clouded. I started cleaning them with
steel wool as he instructed me to do for cleaning stains, and it started
to get rid of the cloudy film and the shiny stone appeared. I spent
hours and hours, cleaning them with the steel wool, but finally they
became clean. After about a week we began finding white water rings
and stains, so through research I found your site (thank God!) I did
a lemon test on a scrap piece that the installer left and the lemon
test failed miserably. The lemon juice left a stain after only seconds
of being on. I tried the peroxide and bread test, and that seamed
to get rid of the white marks, making a distinct lighter colour area
showing where I placed the peroxide and bread. I did the lemon juice
test again, and it passed beautifully. I realize that it would be
very difficult to do the entire counters with the bread and peroxide
evenly, so I bought a paint stripper to try. In searching for Mythelene
Chloride I wasn't able to find any ingredients on any of the products,
so I bought one of the strongest kinds. This didn't work at all. Any
suggestions on what my next step should be, should I do the whole
thing in peroxide and bread? Sincerely, Lori, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: Oh boy!! So, let’s take a look at the latest act of
bravery of Michelangelo He sells a doctored stone as Black Absolute.
We have two consumer frauds in one shot: first it is not black absolute;
second it is doctored. Just great, right?! But wait
The stone very possibly
a doctored black Zimbabwe does not require to be sealed, but Michelangelo
seals anyway because of the sealer that he has in his brain! But
wait everybody knows that the most important phase of the application
of an impregnating sealer is to remove any residue from the surface
of the stone, right? Not Michelangelo he don’t! He leaves all
of the impregnator drying on the stone and recommends the customer
not to touch her countertop for 24 hours. Needless to say, in 24
hours the impregnator is cured and Lori now has a countertop all
hazy due to the coating of the sealer! Lori has to go through some
serious hard-labor with steel-wool pads to remove all the stupid
impregnator from her countertop surface. Now, however, as she starts
spilling acidic liquids on the doctored stone she finds out that
there’s a problem. Basically, the “shoe-shine” is
coming off, although she doesn’t honestly know what’s
happening.
Lori doesn’t
report what “Michelangelo’s” comments were about
the issue of the haze and the “ware stains”, but I can
easily guess!!
In a goofy attempt
to remove the “stain” (which is not a stain), Lori finds
the solution to the problem: the Hydrogen Peroxide will not remove
the “stain”, but removes the doctoring agent and the gray
stone underneath is bullet-proof: no more “water stains”
when the stone is hit by the lemon juice!
If you can live with
a gray countertop, opposed to the black paid for and that you thought
you were getting, you’re home free, Lori. Just do the whole
countertop with the Hydrogen Peroxide and “Bounty” paper
towel (it’s a bit more practical than bread, don’t you
think?! :wink:)
If instead you don’t
like the idea to having been taken for a ride and would like to
have an actual “black absolute” countertop, take “Michelangelo’s”
sorry butt to court on consumer fraud charges. You can’t lose.
Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this
site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another
statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8544: I
found your site on the web. I hope this is the e-mail addy for questions.
We are considering installing Atlantic Black Granite for a kitchen
counter. Could you advise as to this selection regarding care, sealing,
quality etc. Your recommendation would be greatly appreaciated. You
may reply to this e-mail. Thank You, Debi, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Debi: Potentially, Atlantic Black is a very good stone. Like
any other natural stone it does require some care, but it does not
require any sealing. But … like I said at the opening of my sentence,
all those goodies are, “potentially” so! Start your granite
adventure with right foot, for a change: start from the fabricator,
not the stone!
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8543: Just
by chance I found your web site, wish I had found it before the job
was started, I would've changed a lot of thing's, starting with the
contractor! In one bath, changed the tub to a shower, and on the step
into the shower we put granite! When we shower, the tile turn's a
darker shade! We've been told that maybe the tile was not sealed,
and that this is water in the stone. Do you know of a quick way to
dry it, so we can re-seal it, maybe getting rid of the problem?
We have glass door's waiting to be installed, and I don't want them
going in on top of the wet tiles! Thanks for your help, Steve, June
21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steve: When you say that you put granite on the step into the
shower, do you mean granite tiles or a solid piece of slab? It’s
important to know that if we want to find out what’s going on
and how to address the problem properly. Answer this question and
then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8542: I've
been going through all your responses on honed granite and have definitely
determined that you are not a fan. I love the look of the honed green
soapstone surface/honed green granite/honed slate. I realize these
are not ideal surfaces for the busy family that does cook and live
at their kitchen counters. Is their any surface that you recommend
that has that honed look in a dark surface that might be appropriate
for kitchen countertops? caesarstone maybe? Thanks.
Kecia, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kecia: Just to set the record straight, I’m not a fan of
stupidity, but I am a fan of professionalism. Honed-finished stone?
They are only things. If they’re handled with professionalism
they are all right; if they’re handled with stupidity, they will
not be all right. Same material – different human resources.
Slate is a monumentally huge NO-NO, not because of the finish, but
because of the material. It is, by far, the worst of them all and,
if you ask me, there ought to be a law! Other than that, soapstone
is quite all right (with the limitations due to its extreme softness),
and so would hone-finished green granite, in the hands of a good fabricator.
It all depends on how the fabricator will treat the surface of the
stone at the time of the delivery. I hope you will understand the
true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that
like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you
that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone
itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8541: I
came across all of your interesting information about granite and
would love your advice. We are planning to put granite countertops
in our new kitchen, but I'm concerned about staining, etc... as we
have 2 young children. I'd like for the kids to be able to use our
new island to draw and craft and I've heard conflicting things about
the durability of granite.
We're looking for a sandy color countertop and I've liked Santa Cecilia
and Golden Bahia. I would love your opinion about their durability
as well as suggestions of any other similar stones. Thank you so much
for your help. June 21, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Lisa: Nothing, I repeat, NOTHING is more durable than most mercantile
granites as a material for a kitchen countertop. The conflicting opinions
are coming from people who talk only because they just so happen to
have a piece of tongue in their mouth and like to hear the sound of
their voices, or are malicious lies put out by the promoters of inferior
materials like engineered stone and solid plastic (oops, solid surfaces
… whatever that means … it IS plastic after all) that sell
at the same price as mercantile granite. You may even hear complaints
coming in from frustrated end-users of granite countertops, but when
you look into it, it turns out that the reason of the problems is
almost always the human factor, the fabricator – seldom the stone
itself. I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8540: I
am considering granite counter tops. I am installing a light colored
hickory cabinet and would like a top that is not too light, not too
dark. Also I have children who are not always as careful as they should
be. Any suggestions? Thanks, Craig Pryor, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Craig: I’m strictly a mechanic, so, please, leave me out
of the decorating business; I’m even 25% colorblind, for crying
out loud! :) However, I’m going to help you out by giving you
the list of my favorite mercantile granites: A GOOD FABRICATOR –
end of the list.
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8539: I
have limestone in the my master bathroom. It is only 2 months old
and yet starting to gather stains;mostly soap. How can I clean these?
Please send me the name of a household cleaner, since vague things
like ammonia do not work for me. You will have my eternal gratitude.
Thanks in advance Nuzhat, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nuzhat: Unless you use a dark blue or black soap, your stains
were certainly not generated by the soap. Actually, I believe that
are not stains at all. Let me guess: your “stains” are spots
of the same color as the limestone but just duller than the rest of
the surface. Am I right? Let me know if I’m on the money or if
your “stains” look different from what I described and then
we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8538: I
am writing from St. John's, Newfoundland Canada. I have been researching
stains that have been showing up on Black Granite (GABBRO) floors.
These are stains from water, acid drink spills etc. Also, there seems
to be a film or haziness on the floor. I am really impressed by Maurizio
and would very much like to talk to him. I am talking about 40,000
square feet of tiles. How do I get in contact with him? Thank You,
Vicky, June 21, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Vicky: I never heard from you for three weeks already. I was
just wondering what ever happened to that black granite floor. I sure
hope that you didn’t treat the whole thing with lemon juice!!
Could you please update me? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8537:
My client has what looks like a Khatu Rainbow sandstone fireplace.
Overall, the appearance of the sandstone is very pale. When the sandstone
is wet (plain H20) it temporarily deepens the overall color and enhances
the veining. It's beautiful! My client prefers this wet look and I
can see why.
I've been doing research on sealers to enhance the color. Some mfg.
claim the sealer will permanently deepen/darken the color. However,
I've read on other sites that applying a sealer to sandstone is risky
in that the stone will not absorb the sealant evenly and will have
a blotchy look. Is there another option to achieve the look my client
is seeking or can you recommend a proven successful sealer for sandstone?
Another thought, perhaps I could enhance the burgundy veining with
a watered down wash of color either latex or acrylic paint? Any advice
is appreciated. Thank you. Lesa, June 21, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Lesa: Why do you want to complicate your life and waste your
time by doing research that will lead to answers that are totally
meaningless? I've read on other sites that applying a sealer to sandstone
is risky in that the stone will not absorb the sealant evenly and
will have a blotchy look. By saying sandstone one’s saying absolutely
noting. There are many different (and I do mean different) kinds of
sandstone that span from rather hard and dense rocks to sandstone
that will actually melt under running hot water, and everything in
between. So which sandstone are the gurus who went on record with
that statement making reference to?... Stop looking for standard answers
when you’re dealing with a product that standard is not by a
long shot and can be so hugely diverse, even if under one common label.
Besides, you already know how your sandstone will react if treated
with a good-quality stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6!
If it absorbs water evenly, then the color enhancer will produce an
even finish. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8536: We
recently had a new bluestone walkway installed and a pool patio...when
the trees started to bloom all the 'spinners' from the trees have
fallen and stained our patio with brown spots, could you please tell
us how on earth to get rid of these ugly stains! Can't thank you enough...Mary,
June 21, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mary: What you have are organic stains. When it comes to stain
removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
“stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8535:
We just had granite installed on our kitchen countertops. The installers
had a tough time getting one of the slabs in and I believe there was
"extra" shoving, etc. Upon completion I noticed 3 surface
cracks around the sink area. The owner came back the next day and
basically told us that we had selected the absolute worst material
to work with (it is called Barracuda Blue, he also referred to it
as Amazon Fantasy). It is very dark with lots of movement and colors
swirled through, with very natural markings and lots of fissures.
I love the fissures and cracking inside the material, but not on the
surface. He suggested leaving the cracks alone, not trying to dig
them out. He wants me satisfied, I just don't know if I should ask
for a replacement? Although the contract states they are not responsible
for hairline cracks, I can't help but think they caused these? I still
owe $499 and have told him I am withholding it until I can get more
info on whether this is acceptable. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Jori, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jori: The owner came back the next day and basically told us
that we had selected the absolute worst material to work with. Does
that mean that it is your problem?? Airline crack are not acceptable
in my book, but a good fabricator should be able to repair them properly
without having to dig them out (whatever that means!). I’m just
wondering why on earth you signed a contract by which you were going
to accept airline cracks, though. Actually, I’m wondering why
a fabricator has to put that specific clause in their contract to
begin with makes me wonder Since you signed the contract I’m
afraid that your fabricator has the upper hand. Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8534: please
send info on travertine,etc. care. I'm having to redo my upstairs
bathroom because of falling apart tiles, with resultant water damage,
and will need to replace tub and shower-surround; possibly flooring
as well. Expense is an issue, with 2 college-bound kids, but aesthetics
and ease of care are also priorities. Any suggestions? My good friends'
re-model with honed and filled bath/ shower surround and natural travertine
floor looks great; I'd just as soon use honed/filled for both, if
there's no reason not to. By the way, I live in a fairly humid place,
about a mile from the beach, and mildew is a constant headache. Thanks
alot--Joy, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joy: The reasons why mildew is a constant headache for you are
the very reasons that brought to the installation failure you’re
experiencing. The material does matter, but only in minimal part,
because even the best material will fail you if it gets installed
by some “Michelangelo”! And then what are you going to do,
blame the material and the humid climate?... (BTW, honed travertine
is very good.) Our “Maintenance Guidelines for Residential Stone
Installations” include some vital tips on good installation practices
of shower enclosures. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8533: We
are currently looking for "granite" countertops to match
our dark cherry cabinets. We are currently considering Santa Rita,
New Venetian Gold, Golden Sunrise, and Raniwara Yellow. Which of these
would you recommend in terms of being low-maintenance and appropriate
for a kitchen countertop? Thanks, Gary, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary: I’m really not into interior decorating. I’m
even 25% colorblind for crying out loud! :)
All the stones you
listed could be suitable, but a stone is just as good as the fabricator.
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!”
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8532: We
installed natural, honed, limestone on our patio. It has a sand base.
Due to the amount of shade and a sprinkler system watering the plants,
it becomes slippery with green algae. I have been using bleach to
clean it. Is this safe? What can I do to prevent the algae? I also
have dhanis brick in another area of the patio, also on a sand base
and sections of it turn slippery and black. I have also used bleach
to clean it. Any suggestions? Thank You, Beth Knolle, June 21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Beth: By saying limestone you’re saying absolutely noting.
There are different (and I do mean different) kinds of limestone that
span from dense and acceptable rocks, to limestone that will actually
melt under running hot water, and everything in between, of course.
So which limestone
do you have?
Having said that,
and hoping that what you have is half a decent stone, bleach is
not the best product to use on it. I recommend my outlandish MB-9,
which, while containing a certain percentage of bleach is formulated
in a way that the Sodium Hypochlorite will not interact with the
chemistry of the stone.
As for preventing
the formation of the algae, I don’t believe that there’s
anything that could be done about it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
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| Q
8531: I stumbled across your
web site and have found it to be very informitive. I just had Giallo
Vicenza installed last week in my kitchen. My first question is should
this be sealed or not.The supplier, not the fabricator, suggested
that all natural stone needs to be sealed and recommended using Bulletproof
for sealer. I have done your lemon test on a sample that was provided
to me by the supplier. No absorbtion was seen. I have not tried it
on a piece from my slab yet. My second question is the orgin of this
"granite" and was this a good choice. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks, Frank Schillaci, June
21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Frank: In itself Giallo Vicenza, like all gneiss, is a very porous
stone and it should be thoroughly sealed with a good quality impregnating
sealer (like my outlandish MB-4). However, if for any chance the slab
had been resined by the factory (and there’s a very good chance
at that), it shouldn’t be sealed at all. How to find out? Ask
your fabricator. They know if the slab was resined or not. And then,
to double check, spill some water in a couple of spots of your countertop,
let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the
areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily)
any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality
impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother. Oh well, I almost
forgot …
“The supplier,
not the fabricator, suggested that all natural stone needs to be
sealed”
Oh yes indeed! As
a matter of fact the first thing that has to be sealed is that individual’s
brain, may the gods forbid that some stone intelligence has a chance
to stain it! But I believe that their brains have been taken good
care for already and are … bullet-proof!! :-)
Now answering to your
last question: the stone is coming from Brazil and – like any
other stone - it’s just as good a choice as your fabricator.
Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this
site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another
statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
8530: We had a New Venetian Gold granite countertop installed 2 months
ago. From the beginning, it has a "sandy" "gritty"
substance on the top. If we wipe it off, it comes back. I thought
it was coming from the granite somehow. The installer tells us it
is "dust" in the air that lands on the granite, although
we don't feel it on our kitchen table or stove, and never had it on
our laminate countertops before we installed the granite. He suggested
we place a piece of paper over 1/2 of our island to prove that the
problem had nothing to do with the granite. Although there were some
gritty flakes on top of the covered area, the uncovered area was thick
with this substance. I just can not conceive of what these particles
are and how "dust" can be so gritty and covering only our
granite countertops and nothing else in the kitchen? We haven't been
able to put any food products on our countertops as we are afraid
of these particles getting inside the food! Have you heard of this
problem before? Mary, June 21, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mary: Yes, I’ve heard of it and many times, too. I also
don’t believe in Voodoo; therefore I will not buy for a split
second the theory of this mysterious gritty dust coming from nowhere
and depositing itself only on your countertop! I’ve gotta hand
it to that fellow that he’s come up with something really novel:
I never heard of that particular “explanation” before, and
I thought I’ve heard them all already! And that little trick
with the paper … that’s a nifty little touch of class, all
right! They must be well trained at delivering that crock of cacca-baloney!
The truth in the matter is quite simple: your gneiss (Giallo Vicenza)
must be a low-grading slab and it releases those grits. Will it ever
stop? Maybe, but then again maybe not. It really depends on how low
the grading is.
Any
remedy?
Not
really, for nobody can turn into first grade a third or forth grade
material, of course. There’s an old home remedy, however, that
consists on rubbing a stick of paraffin wax on your countertop and
then buffing it up with pads of “00” steel wool. It’s
only a make-up, mind you, and you will have to repeat the procedure
on a “when needed” basis, but it usually works if the
situation is not too bad.
Now,
do you realize why end-users of stone need marblecleaning.org and
what it stands for?
Now
remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and
day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself
and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get
good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t
become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
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