|
| Q
6447: Hi...
I was reading your tips and saw that you offer a maintenance guide for natural
residential stone (we're about to purchase and install a granite countertop for
our kitchen and island...and are putting marble in our shower stall.Would love
to have your helpful guide! Thanks!Jana, March
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jana Reid: My maintenance guidelines are very important,
but the most important part of maintenance begins before you decide which stone
to and which contractor to use! Along with my maintenance guidelines you should
consider getting my article on how to shop for a granite countertop! The article
you're looking for, as well as all our other titles are available in pay-per-download
format in the "Educational Literature" I want to take the opportunity
to let you know that all our own pay-per-download articles are available for FREE
to our established customers. Should you decide to give our fine specialty products
a try by buying some through our secured online retail store for a minimum value
of $49.00 (before S. & H. charges) for each article, you will be entitled
to a full refund of the cost of the literature you purchased just for the asking!
Moreover, you could also ask for any other title, FREE of charge, through the
CONTACT US section of our site, by citing: PROMOTION 626 and the date of your
order! Please, pay a visit to the CONSUMER PRODUCTS section of our Sincerely,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6446: I recently
installed a 4' x 9' black slab (very tight matrix and quite dark) on the hearth
of an special fire feature that will sit on top of the granite. When I look across
the slab under certain light conditions, there are dark and light lines that are
across the entire width of the slab and travel the entire length. They repeat
about every 1.25". Do you know what they are? Also, black paste shoe polish
has been suggested as a method of removing the lines. Do you have any sense of
the long term affects of the black polish, especially when heat is present? The
quarry rep said he had never seen such lines. March
09, Reply |
| R1:
Dear: The quarry rep said he had never seen such lines. Neither
did I! Black shoe polish, huh?! … Wow, that sounds like a “winner”
to me!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6445: I had
new granite installed in my vacation condominium last year. This is a second home
and had not been used for several months (but with the heat left on). When I visited
this past weekend I was horrified to find a new stain on the granite (beige -
Jacaranda). I had left a new spice turnstile on the counter which had a rubber
bottom. Apparently whether the ocean moisture or the heat 'cooked' the rubber
enough so that a circular blue stain was left. I had paid the installer to seal
the granite (which I'm now guessing was NOT done). Can you give me the best advice
on how to remove the stain and what I would need to do to truly seal the granite
to avoid this for the future? Thank you! Patty,
March 09, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Patty Sue Williams: A stain like that would have happened even if the stone
had been sealed properly. Chances to take it out? I honestly don't know, but I
would give it a shot as if it were an organic stain first. If that won't work,
I would then try something else. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy
one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no trueprofessional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far
more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from "stains",
and what to do about the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can
order itthrough our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . If the treatment for an organic stain
won't work, gimme a shout and I'lltell you what else to do. You're in direct contact
with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6444: Within
the next week my husband and I must choose a granite for our kitchen counter.
We have a family and children are often in our kitchen and so we
want a counter
that is: 1) extremely resistant to staining - if we did not have to treat it,
that would be great. 2) extremely unlikely to chip, scratch, or crack. I have
been studying your excellent article - The World's Most Popular Granites. I have
learned a lot from it, but because I am not a scientist, I still have questions.From
your article, I learned that I should choose a dark granite. I can use the table
to look at water absorption. But here are my questions: 1)
It seems that I should choose magmatic and not metamorphic - is that correct?
2)
Using your table of Quartz x Phagioclase, is the row with Quartz (0 - 5%) better
than those with more quartz? Are there particular categories that arebetter, for
example, Syenite - larvikite.
3) I don't see Peacock Green in your table -
that is one of our favorites. Are you considering it to be a larger grained ubatuba?
Does the larger grain
size mean that Peacock Green is more likely to chip or
break? What do you think of it for our purposes?
4) We don't want pure black.
Other granites we have considered are Emerald Pearl, Blue Pearl, and Dakota Mahogany.
How would these be, according to our
criteria?
5) Can you suggest any other
granites that would be extremely unlikely to stain and extremely unlikely to chip,
crack or break? I would greatly appreciate any advice you could give. I see that
you are a professor and so I know you must be very busy. I
only discovered the Findstone website and your excellent article several days
ago. I am rather horrified to think that my husband and I were about to make a
big purchase based on aesthetics alone, with little real, practical knowledge.Thank
you in advance for any advice you can give us, and also for your excellent article.
Sincerely, Maria, March 08, Reply |
| Q
6443: We are
going to have our granite counters installed in a couple of weeks. My husband
and I are arguing about whether to paint/paper backsplashes now or after the counters
are installed. He tells me that the top of the 4" backsplash will be caulked
thus leaving an uneven edge to run paint or paper against. He says we'll have
to dig out any caulk to paper or paint. I can't believe this. You mean every time
that I want to change paper or paint I've got to dig out caulk and then re-do
it? HELP!!! Denise,
March 08, Reply |
| Q
6442: We recently
had tropic brown granite tiles put on our kitchen countertops. Installer did a
nice job. However we have a triple cast iron sink(Kohler) and when it was reset
on he countertop, plumber's putty was used. We now have a dark ring(oily looking)
around the sink. It is about 1/2 inch wide. I now know plumber's putty is a no
no, but too late for that. I would be interested in your advice on what type of
poultice or stain remover I may try. If there ia a charge, let me know. I have
not sealed the counter yet for two reasons - we are putting a wood trim and carpenter
is not done with it yet and also I am not real sure what to seal it with. Thanks,
Gail, March
08, Reply |
R1:
Dear Gail Greenwood: Fierst you have to remove the sink and plumber's putty. Second
you have
to treat the stain by poulticing it out with a pain stripper based
on Methylene Chloride. About how to properly make a poultice, when it comes to
stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits"
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near
you, or you
can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains
by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in
your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to
tell stains apart from "stains",
and what to do about the latter!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6441: I have
all new marble tabletops in my living room. Glass rings have developed from what
I think was hot coffee cups, even though we used coasters (cork coasters). Please
advise how I can remove them myself. I am very handy I just need your superior
knowledge! Thanks and I will not ever put another cup on there again. Alex,
March 08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Alex: Yes, indeed: I have a product, namely MB-11 that will do the trick for you!
Actually, we have a special “marble repair kit” (which includes MB-11)
that’s currently on sale! No, there’s no such a thing as a protectant
to prevent those kinds of damages. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6440: I am
looking for a remedy to take away cigerette burn marks off a marble table top.
The top is white. Is there a cure? Thanks, Lynne, March 08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lynne:Not a DIY project, I’m afraid. You can try with 30/40 volume Hydrogen
Peroxide (available at you beauty salon), but I dout that you will get a complete
result. A bona fide stone restoration contractor may be your best bet.Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6439: We have
a new travertine floor and I have tried to clean some small spots of urine off,
but it appears to be etched. Nothing will remove the stains, and I am concerned
that the floor will have to be polished. Since this is a new home (2 months old)
I am worried that I will have an ongoing problem with acidic liquids. Is there
something I can seal the floor with so that a problem like this can be cleaned
up without leaving spots? March
08, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Molly: Are you sure that your "stains" were made by urine and not,
say toilet-bowl cleaner? Urine is slightly acidic (ureic acid) and it takes some
doing to etch travertine. Toilet-bowl cleaners are marble-killers! Regardless:
A) whatever the reason you have to have your stone re-polished. And, B), there's
nothing that you can apply to it to prevent etching. The good news is that if
they are really urine "stains" we have a product, MB-11 that will take
care of them. If they are toilet-bowl "stains" instead, they're typically
too severe for our product to repair them.If you need additional assistance, you're
in direct contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q
6438: I'm a
researcher for the Index (Washington) Historical Society's Exhibitions Committee.
For the 2004 season - Memorial Day thru September - this year's exhibit theme
at the Pickett Museum will center around a company that was very important and
essential to our town back at the turn of the last century, the Western Granite
Works quarry, started in 1904 here in Index by John Soderberg, who also founded
Swedish hospital in Seattle, WA.In this endeavor we would like to educate our
visitors on the importance that building in stone had to the advancement and progress
of the Pacific Coast states - usually this importance was emphasized strongly
to citizens when a wood- framed town burned to the ground, as Seattle did in 1889.
Most importantly in my research, I am trying to locate tables and graphs (hopefully
with pictures) regarding anything to do with quarrying, and building stone names,
similar properties and differences, and small sample blocks to use in a "Visitor's
Quiz". Any assistance you might be able to give in this regard would be most
appreciated. Kate, March
04, Reply |
| Q
6437: We are
in the process of building a home and are trying to decide on kitchen countertops.
We had selected Cambria and then heard (from a Granite dealer) that people are
starting to remove their Cambria because they aren't satisfied. We could not locate
the 'rocking the boat link' to see if there was any pertinent information on the
pros and cons of Cambria vs Granite. Any input/opinions would be appreciated.
Ruth, March
04, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ruth: I have no idea if your granite dealer is telling the truth, and, if
so, upon what grounds he bases his statement, but it sounds mighty biased to me!
:-)
That said, I personally like natural stone much better than engineered
one. The problem with granite is the scary ignorance (which inevitably leads to
“surprises”) surrounding it displayed by all too many operators. However,
if you get the right “intelligence” about it, nothing beats a granite
countertop!! I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you
need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio
Bertoli |
| Q
6436: I am
looking for information on reinstalling a tiffany marble shower base (a stress
crack occurred due to an unleveled substrate under the base). Since the base needs
to be replaced do the walls have to be removed? What material should be used to
set the base? Is a pan needed under the base in a second floor bathroom? What
type of silicone should be used to seal the walls to the base? Any information
or contact you could give me would begreatly appreciated, March
04, Reply |
| Q
6435: Does
marble stay cooler than other floors, if so how much cooler than ambient temperature?
I have heard that marble stays like 16 degrees F cooler than ambient temperature.
Is this correct.? Sincerely, Charlie, March
04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlie: Unless your particular marble has some “mysterious magic properties”,
it will be at room temperature all the time. It may feel cooler because it transmits
heat, but that’s all there is to it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Marble
and most stones have a higher coefficient of heat transfer and so they seem cooler
to the touch. burzin |
| Q
6434: We have
a marble (or "marble") patio table that is experiencing some problems
with pitting. Small bits have flaked out of it, leaving small holes. Is this really
marble, and no matter what, do you have any suggestions? We live near Dallas,
TX. Thanks, Norm, March 04, Reply |
| Q
6433: About
a year ago, our contracter purchased and installed mexican terracotta tiles in
our kitchen. subsequently white spots (calcium deposits?) broke thru on about
25% or more of the tiles, in some cases 5 or 6 withe spots on one tile. the floor
looks terrible. our contractor says that this is normal for mexican terraacotta
tiles. i can't believe that. what are your thoughts? my belief is that either
the tiles were not sealed properly or inferior tiles were purchased by the contractor.
do you have any suggestions as to how the situation can be corrected? (ncidently,
we had terracotta tiles installed in another room over 20 years ago. no white
spots ever appeared on those tiles.) i would appreciate any advice that you can
give me. sincerely, melvin, March 04, Reply |
Q
6432: I
had a lot of sandstone "tiles" made for my outdoor pool deck for my
new home. They came from Mexico, and I believe it is sandstone, but I didn't know
that when I ordered it. The stone delivered was more porous than the sample, and
it was very brittle. It had areas in it that looked like it was
made of petrified
wood. When they picked up some of the pieces from the shipment crate, they broke.
They installed the remaining tiles anyway. After installation, they power-washed
them, which opened up more holes in the porous areas. Then they sealed them. Then
they put a white-colored
grout on to fill in the gaps and the larger holes.
When they put the grout on, they got "grout wash" all over almost all
of the tiles. The residue from the grout looked like a whitewash. To remove it
they washed the stones with muriatic acid. Then they power washed the tiles again.
It looked awful.
While we were trying to figure out how to deal with this,
some big brownish areas stated forming. The stone dealer said it is "efflorescence".
He suggested wire brushing to remove the brown (I don't think it will work), then
putting 3 coats of sealer on it. Meanwhile, there are lots of voids in
the
stone that seem to be enlarging, and I still have large "whitewashed"
areas. Is this something you can help with, either in the way of advice, or is
this something you do as a business? Thanks, Jim, March 04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: After all that "amazing" treatment, is there actually any
of that crappy stone left? Here's the solution of your problem: First: get a machine
gun and kill both the dealer and the installer dead. Second: get some TNT and
blow up the whole stupid floor.Third: live happily ever after. Nobody will ever
file criminal charges against you. They should actually give you a medal for ridding
the world from a couple of total idiots. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
6431: I wish
I would have known this before!! I also see a stain... like water probably? Or
oil? Can it be taken out? I've only had it installed three days ago!! It's a popular
color... Balck, light yellow, white and some brownish-maroon spots every now and
then. I was told I should seal it.... should I ???Any help on this matter, I would
grately appreciate it!! I am cluless and hate myself for it!! Should have read
before!! Thank you. Ann, March
04, Reply |
| Q
6430: how do
retailers of large pieces of stone ensure a safe environment for their workers
and customers? March 04, Reply |
| Q
6429: Hi I
have marble in my main living areas and I do not know what is the best way to
clean it. Can I use vinegar with water? I also have saturnia marble in the master
bath and know frow reading in your website how delicate it is to clean, please
let me know if there is a specific product to clean it with. Currently I use water
and a stone cleaner provided by the builder, but it does not seem to clean the
floor, if I spill water and clean it with a paper towel it shows a ton of dirt,
so it seems that it is not really getting clean. Please help me thanks Paola,
March 04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Paola: Even by thinking of using water and vinegar you're going to damage
your marble!! Vinegar is highly acidic (acetic acid), and you can't use anything
acidic to clean marble! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
are available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-1.
Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for
the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6428: Your
site is great! I have some questions and would be grateful for your opinions: (1)
I got Amadeus granite slab countertops a couple of ago and don't actually know
whether they were sealed or not. They are wearing well, though, even though I'm
a tough cook and mess-maker. Should Amadeus granite be sealed? (Assuming it really
is granite? ) It's apparently considered in the green category, but is really
black and grey with a lot of movement, including magenta and white. (2)
We are just finishing right now a bathroom remodel with 12 by 12 Travertine Durango
tiles on the shower surround and half way up the walls. According to you, this
does not have to be sealed, right? If I don't have to I don't want to, b/c it's
an extra expense and might alter the look of the natural stone. (3)
The same bath we put in a floor of Empadora Dark marble tiles 12 x 12. Should
this be sealed? (4)
Some of the Travertine Durango tiles seem to have been filled in with something
almost like cement or spackle. And not just little holes or something; sometimes
it looks like they filled in several inches. Is this kosher? Sarah, March
04, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sarah: Allow me to make a "cute" comment. In my book, when I have
a problem with something that I bought I go back to the people I gave my money
to. If I use products to maintain that certain something and I see that I don't
get anywhere, I go back to the people who make the products and I gave my money
to. How does this sound to you so far? :-) I'm sure you did all that, and now
you come here asking for help from somebody who ... made no money whatsoever out
of you! :-) Besides, you don't really expect me to badmouth the competition (SCI),
do you? :-) This is my "public" answer. Now, if you need additional
assistance (yes, I do have ALL the answers to your questions and I'll be glad
to help you out), get in touch with me Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6427: We recently
had a Granite counter tops installed in a new house we are building. My wife found
in the one piece of Granite that is on an island their are eight to ten small
holes about 1/16 to 1/64 in size. She pointed them out to the installer because
they were showing up as white spots because the sealer had not dried in those
spots. She has became very upset. The installer used a torch and something that
looked like a heavy wax that he melted on to a putty knife and tried to push into
the holes.She asked if he was going to reseal it and he said it didn't need it.Is
their any type of repair that will make it look ok. Is their something I can apply
or are their repair people hoe specialize in this type of repair. March
04, Reply |
| Q
6426: If we
have a flat marble tile fireplace wall, can we go over it w/ a different stone?
March 04, Reply |
| Q
6425: Yesterday,
I had black honed granite countertops installed. (And sealed.) Today, I read your
web site--too late, I'm afraid. There is a white circle, probably caused by oil
from a salad bowl, and numerous palm print (perhaps our son had just used hand
lotion). At any rate, Maurizio has mentioned a color enhancer. Because a sealer
has been applied, is it possible to have this removed and then have the color
enhancer applied. Am I too late for this? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Betsey, March 03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Betsy: Yes, the impregnator/sealer MUST be removed for the color enhancer
to work. There are two ways to go about it: Mechanically – which is the best
way – by re-honing your countertop with a honing powder. Only a professional
can do that. Chemically, by using a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride
(available at paint stores or home improvement centers). That is a highly toxic
substance, and must be used with all kinds of precaution. To silver lining is
that it will make you see beautiful colors! :-)
Have you fabricator remove
the stupid thing that they should have never applied to begin with! After that,
get my unrivaled Stone Color Enhancer (MB-6) along with a proper cleaning agent
(MB-5) for routine cleaning. .All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee
if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer,
you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library
for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6424: I discovered
that I left a pumpkin on our "Yellow River" countertop far too long
and apparently the pumpkin was rotting from the bottom. As a result, I did not
notice. After I cleaned and wiped it up with water and dried it, there is a darker
round area, stained, which looks permanent. Is there anything that can be done?
I believe "Yellow River" is granite. Thanks for any advise you can give.
Sincerely Miriam, March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Miriam: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
“Professional kits (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how
to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may
already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also
tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about
the latter! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our
EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Treat your stain as an organic stain. You’re in direct
contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6423: I
tried your lemon test on my newly (3 days) installed granite. I got no stain after
20 minutes!! :-) You would think I'm happy.... But ... No.... I do have two stains...
(they look like a water satin on a wood table, except these are dark) What are
they? If lemon did nothing!!! What can this be??? This granite is Yellow, white,
Black and some spots of a brown - redish color. Seems like a very popular color
... at least in this neck of the woods. What can I do? I know the people that
installed it Did not "seal" it with anything. They also said, I could
just clean it with any commercial countertop cleaner!! Not true right? Please
give me some advice!! Thank you. Ann, March
03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ann: To find out what kind of stains you have you’re gonna have to help
me out a little bit.
Spill some water in different spots of the countertop
and let it sit for 5 minutes or so. Wipe it dry and observe if the spots under
which the water have been sitting has become noticeable darker. Ask you fabricator
if that slab was resined by the factory. Where the stains you’re talking
about there all the time, or did they develop later on. If the latter is true,
what could have caused them? Cooking oil? coffee?...
Try to describe to me
a little better what your stains look like. (I have no idea how a water stain
on a wood table looks like.) You’re in direct contact with me now! And BTW,
you’re right, you do NOT want to use a generic cleaner on your natural stone
countertop! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6422: We recently
had granite countertops installed in our kitchen but I can't seem to find any
reference to the stone we picked. Do you have any information on the properties
of "Verde Tropical G" as I was told it was granite I want to make sure
that I use the proper maintenance regimen. Regards, Shaun, March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Shaun: Verde Tropical is a stone coming from Brazil. Is classified as a gneiss,
but I'm not too sure about that. Whether it needs to be sealed or not is borderline:
it depends on the particular batch of slabs. As for routine care, my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Or you can go directly into
the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13.
Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for
the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6421: I'm considering
black marinachi with a honed surface for kitchen counters. (Remodeling a log house
- don't want too "refined" a look.) The fabricator buys polished granite
and hones it; tells me it will need sealing more frequently than once a year.
Will a honed surface mark up more than a polished one? How satisfied have people
been with honed surfaces? What do you think of my choice? What about Jet Mist
(Virginia) honed or polished? It seems very porous to me. Thanks in advance! -Sue,
March 03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: What kind of a lousy impregnator/sealer does you fabricator use that
has to be applied once a year? And since when does black granite need to be sealed
to begin with? All stone related internet forums are soaked with the tears of
people who had their black granite countertop sealed and now they’re facing
all sorts of “weird problems” their fabricators don’t have a clue
about? (Of course they don’t: they created those problems to being with!)
And what about honed black granite? Haven’t we learned yet that to make honed
black granite almost manageable you have to apply a stone color enhancer to it,
and that you can’t do that if you apply an impregnator/sealer? Is there anything
else that your fabricator doesn’t know? Let me guess: they told you to clean
your countertop with water and dish soap! Or is it a glass cleaner?! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6420: I am
a 49 year old professional whom has only recently found my niche in the “stone”
business. I would appreciate any advice as to how I should proceed with my education.
I do not have an order of importance, i.e. what is the most important knowledge
versus what is less important when trying to sell, treat clients with honesty
and converse professionally with others in the industry. Thank you for your time
and I look forward towards your reply. Respectfully, Benjamin, March
03, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Benjamin: When it comes to education I can help you a great deal! Our corporate
motto is: Education before any sale! And we do mean it! Now the question is: what
is exactly that you want to do? Are you planning to start a business selling stone?
Let me know. You’re in direct with me, now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6419: I have
a natural black granite counter top. Sine 2 months I have 4 whiute stains roughly
2 inches in diameter. I have used paultice 'il mangia macchia' 3 times and the
stains are still there. What Can I do to clean the stains, and then what can I
do to prevent it. I appreciate your advice. March
03, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kamran:
I do believe that I have the solution of your problem. However,
before I come up with a diagnosis, I need you to answer the flowing questions:
1.
How white are your stains?
2. Was your countertop sealed with an impregnator?
3.
Exactly which black granite do you have?
Let me know. You’re in direct
contact with me now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6418: I would
like to have Turkish travertine installed in my kitchen, entry, tv room and bath.
How do I go about finding the right person to do the job. I live in southern Ca
and have concrete floors. I've been pulling up the current tiles, underneath is
some kind of gray adheasive. Does that need to come off, before the floor is installed.
I would like to have it butt jointed, does it have to be installed with the mudd
method, or is there another way. Thanks, CB, March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Clelia: You do NOT want a butt-joint installation! 1/16”
grout gap is the requirement for a good installation. For all the rest, I can’t
help you. You’re gonna have to rely on the reputation of a good contractor.
I don’t know anybody in Southern California. Now, remember, it’s never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your
dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic! My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (that could be
refunded to you) in the “Educational Literature”You’re in direct
contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6417: I
just moved into a home that has an outdoor slate patio. The former owner sealed
it with god knows what. It is now dark gray and dingy. Is there a special way
to remove the old and what would you recomend to seal it to keep it looking colorful
and clear. Thank you in advance, Joe, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6416: Please
provide technical information on slate from Southern India. Density, compression
tests, breaking loads, wear by attrition etc, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6415: Can a
limestone fireplace be removed and reset, without being damaged, in order to repair
damaged wall that is behind it? March
02, Reply |
| Q
6414: I live
in south Florida and intend to redo my pool patio. Right now it is poured concrete
that overhangs the pool. It is three inches thick and full of unsightly deco drains.
I want to remove the entire deck and put in natural stone such as shell stone.
Can I lay this on compacted sand? Or do I need to lay it in cement? Bill,
March 02, Reply
|
| Q
6413: I'm Italian
living in Usa and I am about to update the kitchen in a house I just bought. I
grew up with marble as counter tops in my house in Italy. (600 years old marble
in kitchen) So I'm not sure why people don't use it here or why contractors tell
me not to use it. (some Americans only want shiny surface but I don't care) Can
you recommend some sellers of marble- or should I get some slabs in Carrara (my
family from there), ship it myself and have someone install it here. ? How would
I do this, taxes etc? Also, is it cheaper to get it from lapidiary makers (for
cemeteries? Thank you- Silvia. Also, what type of white marble do you recommend,
March 02, Reply |
|
Q 6412: I
had just installed a totally black granite on my kitchen countertop. The countertop
based on the lemon juice test, does not need a sealer because it does not absorb
the lemon juice. Now the installer, to make it shine even better, put some rubbing
compound on top of it. Yes, it looks good at first but then in the kitchen sink
area where it is frequently wiped, the rubbing compound slowly faded in that area
making it not uniform. I think the installer was wrong in putting the rubbing
compound in the first place. How do I remove the rubbing compound? Do I need to
put anything on top of it to make it shine even better? Thanks for any advice
you may give. Judy, March
02, Reply |
|
Q 6411: I
have limestone front porch steps. The top part of the steps has interlocking limestone.
The mortor/concrete is deteriorating. Would you recommend patching the concrete
or rebuilding the steps? Why? I'm being quoted $400-500 to patch and thousands
to rebuild. I'd like to try to patch it myself but I don't know what to do.March
02, Reply |
| Q
6410: I have
some ROVER stone VERDE ALPI 300x600 conglomerate (reconstituted) green MARBLE
tiles I am planning to use in a bathroom. Will they need to be treated as REAL
green marble or can I use regular tile adhesive. Ive asked a lot of people and
no one really knows, pleeeeease help. David. SYD AUSTRALIA. March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear David from Down Under: Nobody could give you a final answer to that, because
different makes can be different from one another. But why do you want to worry
about it? Just stay on the safe side and use white thin set! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6409: Heard
that Lava stones are used in Sauna Bath, Why so? March
02, Reply |
| Q
6408: After
a barbecue last night we noticed grease stains under the barbecue on our acid
washed patio. How could we remove those stains? Is there a certain product you
recommend? Any advice would be appreciated. Heather, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Heather: It shouldn’t be a problem removing those stains. When it comes
to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits”
(that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can
spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by
using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your
household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! It does
carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
After that, I would like to urge you to apply a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer
like our MB-4 to help avoiding further staining! It’s one of the best oil-repellent
impregnators on the market today! My specialty products are available at our secured
online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee
if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer,
you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library
for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)Ciao
and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6407: I JUST
3 DAYS AGO HAD A HONED BLACK GRANITE COUNTERTOP INSTALLED IN MY KITCHEN. I TOLD
THEM THAT I WANTED A COLOR ENHANCER PUT ON THE SLAB TO MAKE IT AS BLACK AS POSSIBLE.
I NOW FIND OUT THAT THEY ONLY PUT ON AN IMPREGNATOR AND WHEN I TRIED TO PUT A
COLOR ENHANCER ON TOP OF IT, IT LOOKED VERY STREAKY-AWFUL---WHAT SHOULD I DO???
DO I STRIP THE IMPREGNATOR OFF AND THEN JUST APPLY A COLOR ENHANCER???? I WANT
THE COUNTER AS BLACK AS POSSIBLE. WHAT COLOR ENHANCER PRODUCTS DO YOU RECOMMEND?
I HAVE ALREADY PAID THE FULL AMOUNT TO THE SUPPLIER/INSTALLER. THANKS. LINDA,
March 02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Linda: Ouch!! Yes, you’re gonna have to strip
the impregnator before applying the color enhancer. Since you won’t be able
to do it mechanically (it involves special equipment and professional grade honing-powder),
which would be the best way to do it, you will have to strip it chemically. It’s
a nasty proposition because it involves the use of paint stripper based on a toxic
solvent, namely Methylene Chloride, and probably more than one attempt. Open all
the windows, wear an appropriate respiratory device, and follow every precautionary
direction printed on the can. It’s a shame that you have to do that yourself.
If I were you I would give your fabricator a call and ask them – as nicely
as you know how – to fix the problem they have created. One the best color
enhancer on the market is my MB-6, and I’m not bragging: it’s the truth.
(Below find a recent testimonial from one of our satisfied customers.) My specialty
products are available at our secured online store: CONSUMER PRODUCTS , All our
products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore,
once you’re an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed
in our own Educational Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The
offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6406: I am
installing absolute black granite slabs in my kitchen next week. For the backsplashes,
I will be installing a tumbled marble which I am worried about . The looks of
both materials are perfect but I need a good sealer. How can i GET ESTER-EPOXY
SEALER? Do you see any problems with the using the marble or granite as outlined
above? March
02, Reply |
R1:
Dear L. Baker: I don't see any problems with your outline for the use of your
stones.We don't make and Ester Epoxy Resin impregnator/sealer any longer. Tothe
best of my knowledge, there was just another company making such type of impregnator,
and they stopped making it themselves, since the maker of the resin discontinued
its production due to lack of demand.
Besides, the latest generation of impregnators,
based on Fluoro Alphatic resins are to be considered better than Ester. They're
water-carried (opposed to solvent-carried) and are much easier to apply, too!
Under the circumstance, I would like to take the liberty to have you
consider
purchasing one of my two granite countertop care kits. They have everything you
need in one package and they're currently on sale! All our products come with
a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you're
an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational
Literature
library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend
to the NTC articles.) |
| Q
6405: I just
instaled a granite countertop in my kitchen and hours later it had turn dark spots
like water spot or wet looking. I used a wonder board on top of my counter then
used adhesive( natural stone & marble adhesive ) to lay it. Can you tell me
why this is looking like this and what should I do.thanks, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brenda: I must assume that you installed granite tiles on your countertop,
right? That darkening should lighten up as soon as the setting material finishes
curing. Once you get your stone back to its original color, it will be the perfect
time to seal it with a good-quality stone impregnator sealer, like my MB-4. I
would like to take the liberty to urge to purchase one of my two kits for the
proper care of a granite countertop. In there you will find the impregnator and
the best routine maintenance products under the sun! They’re both on special
sale, too! All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely
satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you can have
any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library for FREE,
just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.) Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6404: What
type of glue would you recommend to repair a soapstone carving? Thank you,
March 02, Reply
|
Q
6403: Hello,
I wish I had found this site much earlier, but hopefully its not too late. I am
in the process of purchasing a granite counter top. I have already paid for a
selection through a national chain of home improvement stores.
I had chosen
Santa Cecelia Gold, but after browsing this site I am not sure it is the stone
for me. I still have time to change since they haven't made the templates yet,
as we are installing a new hardwood floor which requires our cabinets to be removed.
I am looking for a stone which requires the least amount of maintenance and is
resistive to stains and discoloration's. I think I have ruled out the Santa Cecelia
Gold, and Sapphire brown (which by the way my husband stained with some sort of
oil), but I am considering Autumn brown, Tropic brown, Imperial Red, Cranberry
brown, Coffee Brown, Autumn Wheat, Dakota Mahogany or Poconos Green. Which of
these are the least absorbent and are true granites? I am not concerned about
quick clean ups by myself, but since my husband is retired and enjoys cooking
while I am at work, and very seldom cleans the counter after he is done, I have
a real concern about stains. Any quick answers will be appreciated. Thank You.
Linda, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6402: We are
in the process of remodeling our kitchen and we are trying to decide between mahogany
cabinets or white cabinets. What granite would you recommend for either. Thank
you very much for your help! Pepper, March 02, Reply |
| Q
6401: We recently
purchased juperana gold (Granite) or our counter tops and backsplash. We have
noticed that the stone stains very easily. Help 1, Debbie, March 02, Reply |
| Q
6400: I have
just had a granite countertop installed in my kitchen. It is Santa Cecelia and
the installer tells me it is sealed. I have not had any problems but I don’t
cook much. Is there anything I need to be particularly cautious of, for example,
setting a hot pan on the granite. Also, what should I clean the granite with?
Thank you so much in advance for your response. Michele, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6399: What
is the best granite to use in an island cooktop, where grease is a definite factor?
Gloria (Hazel , March
02, Reply |
| Q
6398: Looking
for any information on the strength and general and long term care needed for
granite countertops. What pproducts can be used and what is not recommended. Need
to know what is acceptable for everyday use as well, I have young child and need
to know what type of germ killing products can be used as far as food goes etc..
thanks Holly My granite is Violetta which I believe is from Saudi Arabia,
March 02, Reply |
| R1:
My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are available for
a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE. Or you
can go directly into the “Consumer Products” section and order the Countertop
Kit 2: it’s on special right now! Should you do that, I will send you my
maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
6397: My designer
recommends white statuary cararra marble for my kitchen counter tops. I have several
questions.
1. Is is better to have it polished and accept it will get etched
from lemon, etc. or would it better to have it honed and sealed? If honed is best,
how many times should the installer seal the marble when it is installed? What
type of sealer should I request.
2. Are there specific carrarra marbles that
oxidize and yellow more than others? How do I determine this?
3. The installers
have recommended installing the white marble on top of plywood that is fastened
with metal bolts in some places. Does there need to be a protective white layer
between the marble and the plywood? Is it possible that the plywood could stain
the marble from the bottom up? What about the metal bolts, could they cause the
marble to yellow?
4. What is the best way to prevent water spots? Is it a given
that water spots will occur around the sink area just from constant use?
5.
Can hot pots/pans be set directly on marble?
6. What is the best way to care
for a cararra marble counter on a daily basis?
7. Are there any granites that
are light and have movement but that are better choices for a kitchen? We live
in Southern California - Do you have any supplier recommendations?
8. Is Vermont
or Brazillian slate a good choice for kitchen counters? Does it scratch/stain
easily? Can it be repaired.
Thank you in advance for your rapid response.
We have cabinets installed but no counters because I can not make a decision.
Thanks for your help. Julia, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Julia: Most of your main concerns are legit! But there are just too many
questions to be answered on the board. You’re in direct contact with me now.
I will be glad to answer all of your questions for the small consultation fee
that you will find in the “Educational Literature” Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6396: I am
a new Interior Design student and I have a lot of questions concerning proper
sealing and bonding for various types of stones. I have a Geology degree, so I
know the difference and properties of various stones used for construction. But
I have to say I went the paleontological way of geology and I don't remember learning
about sealing, bonding and finishes for stone installation. (Of course, it's been
over 14 years since I graduated college) Where do I begin? Does a text book exist?
Does the industry provide unviersal standards? Where do I look? Would a visit
to the nearest stone supplier be a start? Stacy, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6395: Hi, My
name is Octavio I'm a Union tilesetter,I just remodeled my kitchen cabinets and
counter tops..I installed 12''x12'' Blue pearl granite ..i did a design with absolute
black , slab was a little too expensive for me. I installed the tile and it looks
beutifull. i then sealed it with some stuff that i got from hard rock tools it's
called "Stone Pro". well it's been about 9 months and i noticed that
around the sink (field tile) there are little brown marks in the cracks(blue pearl
isn't as smooth as absolute it has little cracks in it). I don't know why this
is happening i triped into your site and read all the posts and found it to be
very uselfull..i quickly ran to the garage and did a the lemon test and it past..
but my question is how did the cracks turn brown? and what can i do to keep that
from spreading.?I would appreciate any advice that you can ginve me. I can float
a wall and set the stone and set it so flat that you can see your reflection on
it but i don't know how to take care of the crap so your ex[ertose in maitenance
will be very usefull thank you for your time...Octavio, March 02, Reply |
| Q
6394: I am
looking for some input on profiling 2cm Bulgarian Limestone. It looks honed, and
was ordered in 3' x 3' slabs. The designer is requesting some of this material
be profiled into crown molding, casement, baseboard, wainscoat trim, for a powder
room. Also wrapping a stairwell, using this material on stringers, tread and risers.
Is profiling feasible considering it's thickness? ('thinness')? Will the 'dupont'
profiling tend to break off? (1/4" edge left) Please advise. Thanks! March
02, Reply |
| Q
6393: I recently
put marble flooring all over my house including the bathroom and kitchen. i accidently
dropped and broke a bottle of vinegar that then stained aggressively, it was a
big stain. the shine has disappeared which makes the color tone look dead on the
marble, another way of saying it is that it's just plain ugly. i need to know
what the best thing would be to remedy this unfortunate problem. thank you for
your time. March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jimmy: And, if I may ask, who was the “genius” who decided to put
polished marble in a kitchen? :-)What you have is not a stain at all: it’s
rater a mark of corrosion that the acidity of the vinegar (acetic acid) produced
on the surface of the stone. It’s also called: acid etching. Just about everything
you can think of and that you will spill on your kitchen floor will do that to
your marble. Any solution? Yes, two actually (ain’t life wonderful? Most
of the times you have more than one option!): A) every time you spill something
on your floor you hire a professional stone refinisher who will provide to resurface
your marble by honing and polishing it. B) You rip out the whole stupid thing
and install something more practical instead. Too bad I can’t try to sell
you my maintenance guidelines or any of my products because they couldn’t
do anything about helping you out. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6392: I have
several slate chalkboards. I appears that no one sells these anymore. Do you have
any oil(s) that can be applied to this surface to keep it from drying out, but
will still let it hold chalk? I would really appreciate any help you could offer
me. josh, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6391: I like
to know which is most suitable for residential flooring, travertine or polish
marble? I have travertine floor in my house now. I find it to be too porous and
flakes off. I like the polish look of marble but wanted to know if it is high
maintenance as floor? You reply will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Clara,
March 02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Clara: Travertine is not porous at all. If it flakes
there’s got to be some serious issue which can’t be evaluated without
a physical inspection. Travertine and marble a pretty much the same, maintenance-wise.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Expert Panelist |
| Q
6390: My limestone
is relatively "soft." It has a dull and irregular sheen with some parts
shiny and others dull. There are shiny portions on the stone around some of the
grout seams also so I thought the installers may not have cleaned it properly
before sealing. I was told to re-hone and seal it but I would like to try a polish
or other simpler and less expensive possibility first. can you suggest something?
Well, I wish had seen your website before installing limestone. I probably would
have gone with the honed marble! Jerry, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: No panacea on a bottle (mine or anybody else’s) will even come
close to solving your problem. Unfortunately there’s no way around it: you
need to hire a professional stone refinisher to re-hone your floor using a good-quality
honing powder. Honing with diamond pads may still gives you highs and lows in
the finish, not mention swirl marks. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6389: WHAT
PAINT OR WAX WOULD YOU USE TO COLOUR SLATE E.G. PAINT A DESIGN ON SLATE . RICHARD,
March 02, Reply |
| Q
6388: Thanks
for the nice granite website that you put together, and it is very informative.
I have a question regarding the radiation of granite. Is there any US goverment
regulation on the radiation limit of commercial-grade granite? For example, if
I want to import some granite from other countries, do I have to meet a certain
limit on its radiation level? Thank you very much for your advice! YY Huang, March
02, Reply |
| Q
6387: I would
like more information regarding the MB-5 Cleaner. I recently installed Champagne
black granite in my kitchen and have marks, steaks and what looks like it may
be adhesive, on the counter that won't wash off with soap or water. It will rub
off with vigorous rubbing with my finger, but I don't want to clean the whole
counter this way. Is the MB-5 cleaner what I need to these off? Should I clean
the ceramic tile backsplash with this as well? ...T, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Teresa: I already answered to your other posting. The additional information
you're supplying makes me think than MB-5 will work, although you may have to
use it several times before you can remove completely whatever it is that's sitting
on your stone. Sure, using soap and water will make matters worse because of the
accumulation of the soap film on the stone surface, but I still believe that there's
more than just soap film on your countertop. While using MB-5 scrub with one of
those silvery scrubbing pads available at your local supermarket. NEVER use brown
or green scrubbing pads: they WILL scratch your stone! Yeah, why don't you send
me a picture? You're in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6386: I recently
installed slate on my fireplace wall which is 15feet high. I used a sealer that
has a sheen but I realized I wanted a natural flat look. Im extremely concerned
and dissapointed with it and would really like to bring it back to a natural look.
I worked so hard on this and to now have a look that I dont want is very dissapointing.
Would you be able to help. Please help, Daniel, March
02, Reply |
Q
6385: Our company
are import marble&granite and installation of stoneworks, We are so many years
import,,but this time we are first time cheating,,,
Last two month ago,,,we
go to Italy and checking marble(Bottichino Semi Classico) and sign all everythigs
after we open L/C at sight about 2,500m2,,,cut to size,,, And after they send
to us and we are clearance custom and after arrived our site,, and checking marble,,,but
thye send to marble are all rubbish,,,
So,, i'm make decide,,return back to
Italy,, But they are already LG,,,,,So,,i want to claim for that Italy company(They
are has a quarry) Please let me know, How can i claim for them? I will wait for
your advice, Thanks, Shim, March
02, Reply |
|
Q 6384: I
recently suggested for a friend to use Travertine (the color is "Global Yellow"...)
on the entry area of his restaurant; by the way, the front area where the TR is
going to be installed is only 280/sf. That said, when I picked up the 28 boxes
of Global Yellow TR tiles at a local tile and marble company, I noticed when I
opened one of the boxes, that some of the tiles finishes were not "clean",
it was rather dullish and had rough "darkish" spots here and there...does
not look like the sample that I was given to show my friend. All in all, my concern
is how do I properly seal this product from this moment on since my friend's contractor
already installed the entire entry area with this product? The lady who sold me
this said it was sealed already, BUT that I still NEEDED to seal it again...I
had not a clue, nobody told me this before they sold me this product! Please help!
Sincerely,b.pham, March
02, Reply |
R1:
Dear B. Pham: I never heard of this “Glabal Yellow” travertine.
From
your description it appears to me that it was not properly polished in the factory.
What’s you idea of a “sealer?” If you’re making reference
to a stone sealer (a.k.a. impregnator) A) polished travertine does not need to
be sealed, and B) it will do nothing for the finish of the stone. Only a topical
finish like my MB-8 in conjunction with its team-mate MB-10 could somehow improve
the looks of the stone and offer a valid protection against foot traffic. Keep
in mind, however, that’s an ongoing maintenance product and that maintaining
polished travertine in an environment like that (the front area of a restaurant)
is an up-hill battle. You’re right: you had not a clue. Which begs the question:
why did you suggest your friend to use that material? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6383: We are
currently in the process of choosing a marble for our floor- living room, foyer,
dining and family room. Since ours is a small family and we are pretty good at
maintenance, heavy traffic shouldn't be a problem. We are having trouble deciding
between crema marfil and perlato. The perlato that we like is called perlato 2B
(I haven't heard of it before), the other alternatives available are perlato royal
and perlato sicilia and we are equally happy with either one of them. Would you
recommend crema marfil or perlato for our apartment floor? What are the drawbacks
for either one of them? Thank you for your time. Anu, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anu: There's no difference between Crema Marfil and the Perlato. 2B should
indicate a lower grade. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q
6382: You certainly
know your stone! We are considering installing Uba Tuba 12 X 12 tile on our kitchen
counter top. From reading other questions on the website, it looks like this product
will not require sealing and is a good choice for a counter top. I want to prevent
the problems I read on the forum. Do you have any specific suggestions for me?
Do you hate the idea of installing tile like so many fabricators seem to? We plan
to use a silicone sealer as our "grout." I appreciate you sharing your
experience! Kathy, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Well, if it’s a budget consideration, there’s not much that
can be said about it: there’s a huge difference in price between tiles and
slabs, especially if you can handle the installation of the tiles yourself. No
wonder why fabricators don’t like the whole idea! :-) If you grout with color-matching
caulking you should be all right. Now,
remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your
stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that
they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian
blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Don’t become another
statistic! My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation are available
for a small fee (that could be refunded to you) in the “Educational Literature”
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6381: My fiance
& I are building a new home and thinking of installing travertine in our master
bathroom and shower area. Is travertine as bad as it sounds? What other material
do you recommend? Donielle, March
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donielle: And how bad does exactly travertine sound? The reason why I am
asking is because for all I know travertine is not bad at all for applications
like the ones you’re reporting! But then again, what do I know? :-) My maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which
could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Through them you will learn
a lot about marble and travertine in a bathroom! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6380: Granite,
Stone or Tile? My contractor suggested I put granite counters in my kitchen instead
of tile & grout (for only a couple hundred $ more). This is my Condo Rental
unit that I'm upgrading to increase rent in L.A. (am not selling). I need something
both durable and low upkeep as I'm concerned tennants won't upkeep stone like
I would in my home(e.g. sealing, coffee stains or cleaning agents). Please provide
input - should I be using granite vs other stone, or should I just go ahead with
tile? March
02, Reply |
| Q
6379: What
is the lemon juice test that I see mentioned on this website Thanks, Renee, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Renee: Oh, come on now! You don’t know my little lemon juice test??!
… You must be the last person left on earth not to know it!! :-) Just kidding!
There’s a direct link to it on the sidebar menu of “Expert Advice”
page of findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6378: I
was cleaning the sink at my mothers house, and it had bottles of face wash and
such sitting on it. When I picked up two of them there were to perfectly round
greenish blue stains, and nothing seems to remove them. They almost seem like
a ring on a wooden coffee table that has set in. do you have any advice on how
i can remove them, and if not do you know why this happened. sincerly, stained,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you,
or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove
stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already
have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you
how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our EDUCATIONAL
LITERATURE. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6377: We are
considering slate for both the kitchen countertops and as flooring in the foyer.
I understand that you do not like slate in the kitchen, but could you elaborate
as to why? If slate is appropriate for the foyer, should it be sealed or not?
I wasn't clear on this point from your posts, because there were also impregnators
and Color Enhancers, so the whole thing was rather confusing to me. Apparently
the whole issue seems to be linked to which area of the world you buy slate from,
which was rather eye-opening. Maybe I should just stick to granite, which seems
to be much less fussy. :-) Thank you in advance for your advice. I do appreciate
it. Take care, Gary, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary: No matter where it comes from, slate scratches easy and nobody can
fix those scratches. Slate etches, too, and nobody can fix those etches. As a
matter of fact, I don't consider slate suitable in a foyer, either! Roof, black-board,
pool table. End of story! Is that enough of an explanation for you? :-) Stick
to granite! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6376: I have
been reading some of the questions and answers and am afraid I am in trouble.
My home is three years old and has limestone throughout. It also has in-floor
radiant heat. It is beautiful but some of the stones, especially in the high traffic
areas, have popped there fills. I have spoken with a local company and they do
not fill outside of there place of business. They also said I should have sealed
the high traffic areas three or four times. I know I can chisel out the stones
and replace them but I am worried that it will also happen to the replacements.
My contractor suggested I fill the holes with grout. That does not sound right.
I do not know anything about a vapor barrier. They did paint on something over
the light weight cement to prevent cracking. I also used the lime stone in the
shower. While I am sealing should that have multiple coats sealed in the shower?
Thank you for your time. Martha, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Martha: For what I can understand by reading your report,
you don’t have limestone: you rather have travertine. Which is good. Having
sealed it wouldn’t have prevented the popping of the filler one bit! Sealers
for stone, a.k.a. impregnators, are below surface sealers, not topical as the
word sealer may suggest. Filling the holes with sand less grout is the way to
go. Get the modified type, mix it with latex additive even if the bag tells you
to only use water, keep it a little bit on the thick side and push it inside the
holes using a flexible putty knife, making sure to have it “mound” the
holes. Don’t worry about the cleaning now (just sponge the worst in between
the holes). The following day you will “shave” the grout flush with
the stone surface using a razor blade, with which you will also remove every residue
of grout off of the stone surface. Finish the cleaning up with a plastic (or silver)
scrubber and some of my MB-5 spray stone cleaner. About the impregnating/sealing
of your shower stall, if the travertine tiles are polished (shiny) do NOT seal
them. If the are hone-finished instead (satin-finish) one application will do
plenty (of course, you will be using my outlandish MB-4!!). Travertine, contrary
to popular misconception is NOT a porous stone. All our products come with a 100%
money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re
an established customer, you can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational
Literature library for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to
the NTC articles.) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expoert Panelist |
| Q
6375: Could
you tell me the difference between Italian Marble and Turkish Marble. Any info
will be greatly appreciated. Barbara, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Barbara: I want to assume that you’re talking about the so called “Saturnia”
stone, which is cross-cut travertine. If that the case, the difference between
the Italian travertine and the Turkish one is that the former is quarried in Italy,
while the latter is quarried in Turkey! Travertine is one of the most consistent
stones all throughout the planet, because of the peculiar way it was formed. There’s
no substantial difference between the inherent quality of the Italian travertine
and the Turkish one. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6374: Your
website is really a great resource. Thanks.My 6 month house remodel was down to
the final task...tiling a fireplace hearth. We used 12" x 12" granite
tiles called dark gold cashmere (they're really quite light, almost a yellow).
My contractor used a gray adhesive...some kind of super bonding adhesive...I don't
have the manufacturer off hand. Anyway, after about 3 hours the tile turned a
darker color, almost a green. From my research it appears to be the mositure from
the adhesive bleeding through. My questions are simply this....Is there a reasonable
chance this will fade or should I cut my losses and tear it off and start over.
If I tear it off, are the tiles worthless? If I leave them on in the hopes of
it drying and fading is there a way to speed the process. Tim, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tim: I've got bad news for you. If the setter used
adhesive, it's terminal. He should have used white thinset. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio Bertoli, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6373: We are
buying a new house and the builder has installed 'Baltic Brown' granite on our
kitchen countertops. In two places, we noticed scratches - first scratch is about
1.5in. long and the depth of the scratch is less than 1/16 of an inch. The second
scratch is about 0.5in long. We know that it was not damaged during installation.What
can we request from the builder. Is it a scratch or nick that goes all the way
down the the height of the granite counter. Will it damage the granite with oil
seepage ? Can they do some fill-in with any material to seal it ? or do they have
to replace it. pl. let me know. We are planning to close by next week thanks,
Bk. March 01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear K: Are you sure they are scratches and not natural fissures
in the stone? To make sure I suggest you get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor and consult with them before reaching any conclusion. Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's
a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many
of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about it from
your dealer or installer (when end-users tell me that they were advised to use
water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner, my Italian blood reaches the boiling
point at the speed of light!). Don't become another statistic! My maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installation are available for a small fee (that
could be refunded to you) in the "Educational Literature" Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6372: Our house
is now 27 years old and the marble (dull, not shiny kind) vanity tops in the bathrooms
have gotten sort of 'gray' over the years and there are stains on them. Is there
a solution to cleaning them as we are in the process of getting house ready to
sell. Would like them to be 'spruced up' a little. Thank you, Millie, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mildred: The only piece of advice I can give you is to get hold of a bona
fide stone restoration contractor.“Sprucing it up?” … I don’t
think so! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q
6371: I have
purchased tumbled slate tiles for my bathroom floor. I would like installation
advice on any prep work needed, type of cement, the type of grout, when to seal
the tile and how many applications of sealer, March
01, Reply |
| Q
6370: I moved
from Philly to Florida a few years ago. I'm putting in a Granite (New Venetian
Gold) countertop and I have a few reservations about my potential contractor.
He says he will "seal and wax" the countertop. What is waxing? I haven't
been able to pin down a written guarantee. What should I exect as far as guaratees
go? He says he will provide me a sampe of "my slab" but I haven't been
able to arrange to see "my slab." Should I demand to see what the contractor
will put in my home before I give him any money? I hope you have time to answer.
You appear to be a glimmer of hope in a sea of misinformation.Thanks in advance
from a future customer (if I have the guts to go though with the purchase.) Michael.
March 01, Reply |
R1:
Dear Michael: You know what? I like your fabricator already! First off: I like
the idea that he will be selecting the slab for you. I mean, admit it: how would
you know to select a "good" slab? You may be able to select a "pretty"
one, I grant you that, but "good"?... I highly doubt it! Second, he's
going to seal and wax it at his shop. That's very good, too! If the sealing with
an impregnator is done at the shop chances are that it will be done right and
not in a hurry, and as many times as necessary. The waxing is a good procedure
for that particular stone, because in many instances it has the tendency of losing
some surface grit. Waxing will help a great deal preventing that. All in all,
for the little report I've gotten from you, I feel that you're in good hands,
but ... you never know! I did write a very comprehensive article on "How
to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It
will also tell you in details why I don't consider the customer picking the slab
as a smart practice. It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by
logging on the Educational Literature . It's available in pay-per- download format.
What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products a try by
placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will be entitled
to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you have any other
question, ask away: you're in direct contact
with me now. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6369: I have
two sets of exterior limestone stairs at a home I recently purchased. One set
is ok except for some minor surface cracks in the stones. The other has settled
and is in need of being reset. I got a bid from a stone mason who bid the job
of repairing the steps by quoting the replacement all of the limestone to the
tune of $10,000. I believe I can repair the staircase by removing the individual
stones and resetting them. There are approximately 6 stairs which are each individual
rectangular stones. The base of the staircase is an approximately 6' by 4' platform
that has some cracks. It is big enough that I don't believe it can be moved easily.
I want to buy a chain hoist and canvas straps to lift the stones out of the way,
lay paving blocks or something similar to fix the base and then place the stone
stair pieces back in place. I would like to know what I should use as a foundation
for the stones. I was thinking of using a fine rock base with a layer of mortar.
After resetting, I would assume I should fill all the seams with mortar to finish
the job. Also, starting from the bottom, should each stone overlap the previous
or should they just be very close? -che' March 01, Reply |
| Q
6369: I was
reading your advice on the web and wanted to get with you before buying my countertops.
I am interested in a black granite and wondered which color was the most durable
and stain resistance. I don't want a countertop that requires a lot of maintenance.
Sealing once a year is okay but not a monthly thing. UGH!!! Also, would a product
like Silestone, Avanza, or Zodiak be better than natural granite. I don't believe
they require any maintenance. Please let me know what maintenance would be required
on granite and what products should be used. Thanks, Kathy, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Black Absolute Granite is among the most bullet-proof material that
money can buy. Maintenance-wise is easier that Silestone, Ceasarstone, etc. for
as long as you refuse to have it sealed! The vast majority of the maintenance
problems related to black granite countertops are connected to the fact that the
fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to it believing that's granite. You will
still be much better off using specialty cleaning products for routine maintenance,
like my MB-5 and, optionally, MB-13 but that will be it! My maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations are available for a small fee (which could
be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE . Or you can go directly into the
Consumer Products section and order some MB-5 and, optionally, some MB-13. Should
you do that, I will send you my maintenance guidelines for free, just for the
asking! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6368: We are
going to put a blue pearl granite counter top in our kitchen. After reading many
of the posting on your site I've learned that some "granite" benefits
from sealing and some should never been sealed. Is blue pearl a type of granite
that requires sealing? Are there any special 'gotchas' with this type of granite?
Deborah, March 01,
Reply |
| R1:
Blue Pearl is one of the most enjoyable commercial granites that money can buy!
It usually doesn't need to be sealed, and if it does not, you do NOT want to have
anybody seal it! However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's
a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! I did write a very
comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order
it by logging on the Educational Literature It's available in pay-per-download
format.What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products
a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will
be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you
have any other question, ask away Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6367: I
am trying to find out the best way to maintain my granite. I have peacock green
and I was told I could clean it with Cinch which is a glass cleaner. I am thinking
twice about that now after I saw a reply you gave to someone on the site. What
can I use to maintain everyday. Also how often do I need to polish it if any.
Nancy, March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nancy: My maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations are
available for a small fee (which could be refundable) on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE
Or you can go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5
and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my maintenance
guidelines for free, just for the asking! You’re in direct contact with me,
now! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6366: Recently
has get a contractor to do dry polishing on the marble floor(non-broken; thick;
white and gray uneven color marble floor done by previous house owner). After
polishing the effect is: -1) Seen more prominent:- shinning particle and scratches. 2)
Found more defects:- Quite a few small and round shape white dots (the marble
is in gray and white color mix) and some of the white dot on the marble was touched
with a feel of not very smooth surface. Question
are:-
1) What is causing the white spots? - Will defects and scratches become
more easily spotted after polish? - Else wld the defect is caused by the polishing
process. Like the type of chemical used for polishing.
2) The proper dry polishing
on marble floor should be done in what approach? What chemical shld be used for
dry
polishing?
3) Is it good enough to clean/mop the marble floor with water in
order to remove dust particles when the floor:- is non-greasy or not oily? What
to use if the marble floor is greasy. Thanks for your kind assistance. Rgds, PW,
March 01, Reply |
| R1:
I know exactly what your problem is and I have all the answers for you. Gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me.There's a little
$25.00 consultation fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help.
What's more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more
do you want from me? :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
6365: I would
love to know what this countertop is...I was told it was called Pietre Cardoza
(sp?).It was greenish grey with white veining. One person said it was italian
soapstone, another said itwas honed granite. Do you know what it would be? And,
if so, is it good for a kitchen countertop? Thank you! Nancy, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nancy: Geez, them people sure know their stone!! Pietra
to Cardoza, is neither! It’s an Italian sandstone quarried near Cardoza,
Italy. There’s no soapstone in Italy! It’s quite an enjoyable hard stone
for a kitchen countertop, but, like all sandstone, it’s quite absorbent.
(Soapstone is very soft but totally liquid proof). Therefore the use of a proper
impregnator/sealer and its proper application are paramount! Our MB-4 is a very
good impregnator for those kinds of stone and three applications (with an interval
of 24 hours in between each application) will be enough. MB-4 comes with a 10-year
limited warranty. All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not
completely satisfied! Furthermore, once you’re an established customer, you
can have any of the articles listed in our own Educational Literature library
for FREE, just for the asking! (The offer does not extend to the NTC articles.)
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6364:
Hi I was wondering
how the stone originates is it naturally hard or does it get that way when exposed
to sun and air.? My brother searches fields for indian artifact and he thinks
he found soap stone but is not sure. Ant info you can give me on this would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks Eva, March
01, Reply |
| |
| Q
6363: We're
considering using honed baltic brown granite for the countertops in our kitchen.
Are their any concerns about using a honed baltic brown that we should be aware
of before proceeding? Eric March 01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Eric R. Harnish: Honed Black Granite (no matter shich one) does represent
a maintenance issue that can be summarized in two words: "SURFACE SOILING."
What follows is the answer that I gave to a different inquirer and that I kept
on file for copy and paste purposes. "Dear Inquirer: There are indeed different
opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is a unanimous
consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance issues. The problem with
honed black granite is that it is not ... well, black any more! Most black stones
are but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished, or when
wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take
gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color
and the stone turns grey, but when you wet it ... here it is black again! As you
spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration),
you're going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore.
Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can
clean those stains off, while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice
them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your
problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed
by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to
begin with), not the staining of its surface.Any solution? Well, yes: you have
to give up the grey! If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your
countertop (such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator sealer). it will turn
it permanently black, while preserving the hone finish. In that way, the surface
staining problem would be minimized. Any other questions?" Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6362: I have
a newly installed travertine floor which still appears chalky and dull. I want
to clean it before applying a color enhancer. How and what product do i use to
clean it properly from the grout and chalky appearance? What do i look for in
a color enhancr? Thanks, Christina, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Christina: I detect a lot of confusion in your thoughts. What is exactly
that you want your floor to look like? If you want it nice and shiny, neither
a cleaning product, nor a color enhancer will ever do the first thing about it.
You would need a professional stone refinisher. Besides, color enhancers don’t
work well on travertine. Does it turn obviously darker when wet? If the answer
is no, then a color enhancer won’t do anything for you.Let me know. You’re
in direct contact with me, now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. Expert Panelist |
Q
6361: Hi, my
name is Sandro and my wife and I are planning our dream home in Toronto, Canada.
Our architect is promoting a limestone exterior facade and my reservations are
the following:
1) will the limestone stand up to northern climates and will
the stone be effected by freeze and thawing?
2) is the limestone too soft
a material to be utilized as an exterior cladding (not just accent moldings)?
3) will the limestone discolor over time?
4) will the walls require regular
maintenance such as sealing?
Your comments would be greatly appreciated. Please
advise, Sandro, March 01, Reply |
|
Q 6360: I'm
trying to decide between a ceramic tile that looks an awful lot like travertine
or going with the actual travertine. I love the versai pattern. I do have a lot
of kids running in and out of the house and I live by the beach so after reading
the following problems it sounds like the travertine may be a bit delicate for
our situation. What do you think? Or do you have suggestions for how it should
be installed or sealed. Stephens, March
01, Reply |
| Q
6359: I am
updating my kitchen counters & want to go with Granite. My question being........what
is the best least likely to show stains & or imperfections. I have 3 small
children & I am a sloppy cook. I have 83 square feet to do so whatever I do
it will be very expensive. I don't want to make a mistake. The granite place I'm
working with pretty much yeses me on everything & swears that if it is sealed
then you have no problems. My neighbor (with granite) says she has problems with
grease stains (hers are not sealed on recomendation from her installer). Is it
best to go with a darker black/brown/green color? I really like the St Cecilia...but
I forsee a red KoolAid spill & that scares me. Thanks for helping me...whatever
information you can offer would be much appreciated. Sharon, March
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon in Oklahoma: Certain granites need to be sealed real bad, certain
others only moderately, and certain others not at all. (And the latter will created
problems if sealed nonetheless.) Obviously, your friend’s fabricator didn’t
know the difference! I hope the fabricators you’re talking to do. But it’s
a tough call. I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by
the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very
comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, and you can order
it by logging on the Educational Literature . It's available in pay-per- download
format. What's more, should you in the future decide to give our fine products
a try by placing an order of at least $49.00 before S.& H. charges, you will
be entitled to a full refund of the price paid just for the asking! Should you
have any other question, ask |
