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ADVICE WANTED!   Nov 25, 2002
www.findstone.com   info@findstone.com
Q 4242: We are used to apply plastic paste (we call here "massa plástica"). There are many producers in Brazil and the price is very competitive. You can still use grout for this kind of problem.. Att, Nov21. Reply
Q 4241: We have just had kitchen countertops made from Tropical Amazon granite installed. The installer sealed the granite. What are the characteristics of Tropical Amazon (is it really from the Amazon?) and what is the best way to maintain it? Susan, Nov21. Reply
Q 4240: I am searching for hand tools to build dry rock walls. It is an art mastered by Irish masons who have also worked and taught how to lay dry, limestone, rock walls in Central Kentucky. Some of the tools include a hand held hammer used to chip the rock at the exact correct place in order to secure a tight fit. There are probably other tools used in this craft of which I am unaware. Can you help me locate a supplier for such simple tools. They were used in the 19th and early 20th Century. Nov21. Reply
R1: Any masonry supply company, or good hardware store should be able to help you out. Or get in touch with an outfit, JVC, Expert Panelist
Q 4239: We are doing a fundraiser at our elementary school in Southport, CT to raise money for a garden for our science curriculum. We are looking for bricks for a walkway. Can you give me prices? Do you do engraviing as well. John, Nov21. Reply
Q 4238: I want to install a trowelled cement veneer counter in my kitchen and I am having a problem finding a sealer ( that seals and penetrates and therefore binds with the cement composition) that I can use after I have used powder pigments to color the cement that is a flat sheen level. It appears that this is not your area but considering your background could you possible send me in the correct direction? Thank you very much.Judy, Nov21. Reply
Q 4237: Hello, What will happen to travertine if it is washed with full strength muriatic acid? Jim, Nov21. Reply
R1: Jim, Travertine is a calcitic based stone similar to limestone and marble. Muriatic acid (hydrocloric acid) will react with the calcium carbonate, eating away the stone. Why would you want to do this? Just curious, JVC, Expert Panelist
Q 4236: I am would like to know how companies decide how much they will charge for services such as restoration, polishing and sealing. The reason that I am asking this questions is, I recently had my downstairs area done, which is all marble. They restored, polished and sealed. The area was measured, the measurement was 40x49 in one area, 15X24 in one area, 11x5 in one area and 4x3 in one area. They told me that they charged $1.84 per square foot. I was charged $2,450.00. I think this was too much, even though, they did a very good job, because my marble was really dull. What I would like to know if possible, is how they calculated the measure plus the square foot to get the amount they will charge you. I am not complaining, because as I stated, I was glad to get my marble looking nice and shinny again, but as I stated, I believe that I was over charged. I would like to know for further services. Lee, Nov21. Reply
R1: Well Lee, It appears to me that you actually got a bargin. The measured areas you listed total up to nearly 2400 sq ft., and at $1.84 / sq ft. you should have paid around $4400.00. If the footage is accurrate, you were charged only a little over a dollar a foot. JVC, Expert Panelist
Dear Lee: Two junky illiterates can make passionate love and "make" a new human body. It takes a doctor to take care of that new human body. Doctors, if you think for a munute, are in the maintenance business, though, generally, the word
maintenance brings to must people's minds the image of a minial activity that belongs to the very bottom of the social ladder. Stone refinishing is the very pinnacle of any activity related to stone. It does require much more stone professionalism than selling and setting stone tiles or fabricating a kitchen countertop. Unfortunately, since such
professionalism is not eaisly achievable and, therefore, found. there's a lot of quacks out there, and, I am afraid, you've got one of them! Let me explain myself better: If I had to do your job, restoring and repolishing a very dull 2,387 square feet (that's your information) I would have charged you $3.50 per square foot, for a total of $8,350. I admit it
that I am more expensive than most (I'm making it my business to be!), but the average rate for a legitimate restoration job of that size is anywhere between $2 and $3 per square foot nation-wide. It'd take at least 7 working days for a crew of two people. And that does not include any sealing, which, by the way, is totally useless in the case of polished marble. You've been charged something like a tiny over $1.00 per square foot for the whole thing (I charge $1,25 for sealing alone!!). Now either the contractor who performed the job in your house was wearing a red suite, riding a reen-deer drawn sled, and going OH-OH-OH, therefore gave away his or her skills by working at a huge loos, or you've got a quack. You may like the way your floor looks now, but, no matter how shiny it looks, polished it was certainly not! If you've got Santa, you've got the deal of your life. If you got a quack, you've got what you paid for. Either way, you'd better stay quite, because you're just making a mockery out of yourself. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
 
 
Q 4233: I have a table top travetine(45x45). It's broken in half. I would like to know if there is some kind of material I can use to glue it back together . Thank you. Marie, Nov21. Reply
Q 4232: My inlaws want to install marble tile on the floor of their outdoor patio. We'd like to know any pros or cons on using marble. Thank you. Stacey, Nov21. Reply
R1: Dear Stacey: Believe you me, your in-laws do NOT want to do that! As for the why, take a look at the way you can get in touch with me at the top of this page, and see if it suits you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4231: We just installed beauiful new Bianco Romano granite counters in our remodeled (new) kitchen. Please advise as to the best maintenance techniques, as I would like to keep them as beautiful as they are the day they are installed. I read the horror stories and don't want to be a statistic! Thank you. Michelle, Nov21. Reply
Q 4230:   We are building a home in indiana..we want natural stones floors on the ground and first floor foyer..on both it will extend to the outside as well.. will travertine work ?or should we be looking at quartzite or slate? Nenat, Nov21. Reply
R1: Dear Nenat: Take a look at the way you can contact me at the top of this very page. I that suits you I'll be glad to assist you for a small consultation fee. If you're interested at knowing why I gave away advice for free for a year and half and now I charge, you're welcome to read my announcement above. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
 
Q 4228: Please email me your thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. We have 4X4 tumbled marble that we want to install as the counter in our guest bathroom. I am researching how and when to seal and grout. I think I want the holes filled with grout and then seal but I am not sure. Thanks, Kay, Nov21. Reply
Q 4227: I would appreciate your advise on maintenance of granite countertops. Cleaning, sealing, and how often should they be resealed, Holmes, Nov21. Reply
Q 4226:   After considering all types of counter tops, I have decided to go with Sapphire Blue granite. Is this a good choice for a kitchen? I was also told that the more steps used in polishing the granite, the less often it needs to be sealed. A fabricator said he uses a seven step process in polishing the granite while others in the area only use a three step process. Does this make any difference? Thanks for any help you can give me. Ron, Nov21. Reply
R1: Dear Ron: Your fabricator is a blatant liar. First off, they do NOT polish the granite slabs, they buy them already polished in one side. Not only they wouldn't know how, nor do they own the right equipment (approximately $750,000.00 worth!!), but they don't know what they're talking about, either. Nobody can polish "granite" -- not matter which one -- in three steps. The porosity of the "granite" is strictly related to its mineralogy, that is, what type of stone it actually is, regardless of what the distributor invoice says. So much for the "professional knowledge" of your fabricator. Go somewhere else! I did write a very comprehensive articlea bout shopping for a granite lkitchen countertop. It does carry a small price, but it's worth every single penny! To get it, you have to follow the procedure indicated at the top of this very page. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4225: We are having imperial red granite installed in our kitchen as countertops. Is this a good choice and how do we care for this granite? Thanks. Vicki, Nov21. Reply
Q 4223: We have mistakenly left some super glue smear on top of a culture marble countertop. Please advice ways in removing the smear without damaging the surface. Nov20. Reply
Q 4222: I am trying to repair a concrete floor. I applied a thin layer of concrete (approx. 1/4") onto a very old concrete floor that was covered with asphalt tile. The old tile was removed and my contractor scarified the old floor to prepare the floor to accept the new layer of concrete. however, some tile adhesive still remained and after about 6 months a large area of my new floor came loose and I'm now trying to repair an area of approx. 4'x6' to match the level of the surrounding floor. It would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, for me to remove the remaining tile adhesive residue and I'm hoping that there may be a sealer or concrete additive that would allow me to patch this floor with good adhesion. I would be most appreciative for any help you can offer. Richard, Nov19. Reply
Q 4221: Four years ago we converted a 100year old farm steading into houses in the N.E. Scotland. Every year since the occupants have complained about water leaking in through the stone wall. After numerous visits from Roofers, externally sealing with an oil based sealant, then with a silicone sealant the leaks still persist. The wall has been constructed with a mix of granite, sandstone, and other locally available stone. We have now run out of ideas of how to resolve this problem. Kirstie, Please help, Nov19. Reply
R1: As odd as it may seem, the source of your leak could be from water backing up directly underneath the stone wall. The path of least resistance can be very long. Good luck , Spa
R2: I would consider removing and cleaning all prior sealants off the wall, (not knowing exactly what you used this would require an expert), and then applying a bentonite type cementious coating, usually 2 to 3 coats required. I would follow this by installing a bentonite "blanket" against the wall before backfilling. Additionally, before backfilling I would make sure that I have consulted a civil engineer for specifications on a excellent sub surface drain and porous backfill material. Finally I would make sure that all finish grades slope away from my structure at a minimum of 1/4" per foot and that all roof downspouts are channeled away from my foundation. Warm Regards, Edward
R3: Ask the party to use epoxy mix and apply so it will not leak any more, Juleomartia
R4: Hi Kirstie, you did not mention whether this is above Ground or a Basement wall. If it is Basement than you may have to dig and install a 4” Drain with 1’ Crushed rock 6” below and 6” above and keep all that below the Foundation parch the Foundation and use Rubber Mats and seal the Joints. Remember the Drain Pipe has to empty into a Ditch or dry Well If it is Above Ground and the Roof does not shield it from the Weather, extending it into a covered Porch, you have to consider that the water could seep in some distance from where it comes out. In a Cement Block foundation you could use Food Coloring to find the entrance. But in stone you may stain irreparably. If you seal an exterior wall and it is subject to any movement (frost) the sealing is pointless. Check where your Plumbing is located, it maybe the problems. Curd
R5: I think I know what your problem is.If the walls are between 500mm-1000mm thick,I figure the problem is inadequate ventilation,causing the dampness to linger in the house and thus turning into droplets of water when they condense on the wall.installing an exhaust fan in the house will help to regulate the trapped air and painting the house with a rubber based solution should help. Preeti
R6: I would consider removing and cleaning all prior sealants off the wall, (not knowing exactly what you used this would require an expert), and then applying a bentonite type cementious coating, usually 2 to 3 coats required. I would follow this by installing a bentonite "blanket" against the wall before backfilling. Additionally, before backfilling I would make sure that I have consulted a civil engineer for specifications on a excellent sub surface drain and porous backfill material. Finally I would make sure that all finish grades slope away from my structure at a minimum of 1/4" per foot and that all roof downspouts are channeled away from my foundation, edward
R7: Hi Kirstie, Your problem is a common one (unfortunately). Those buildings were probably built with lime mortar and were repaired with just about every modern chemical and sealant in the book. Lime-built buildings need to be repaired with lime, which will control moisture by letting the walls "breathe" as they must. When sealants are applied, along with cements, the walls trap moisture and can no longer evaporate it away.
I teach a short 2-day school in Ireland for this problem which is attended be many cottage owners such as yourself. Don't hesitate to contact me for help. Mail me if you are interested Regards, John
R8: Hi Kirsty, Water is obviously getting in somewhere and in my experience waterproofers and surface sealants are much better at keeping the water in after it's got there than keeping it out in the first place.Self evident in your case. Only 100% effectiveness in sealing the entire wall surface would be effective. Start at the beginning, the stone does not allow the ingress of water, if the jointing is in good order then you can rule out water coming through the walls.If the water is at low level check to see if the ground outside is higher than the floor. If it is you will always have a water problem, the only proper solution here is to lower the ground next to the walls or raise the floor.If it is at high level then I would suspect your roof or possibly a gutter, soffit problem. Try following the water to it's scorch it is amazing how a small leak in one area can travel a great distance within the fabric of the building and appear somewhere else. I would put the smart money on there being an definite leak and a keen eye and a bit of detective work is sure to expose it. Bryan UK
R9: Try digging down to the base of wall,then clean all the old mortar out of the joints or what ever was used then. Then repoint the the joints with mortar[preferrably a water repellant added to the masonry].Then parge the wall up to ground level with same mix as used for pointing the joints.Then coat 1,2 times with foundation coating.This should be done all around the foundation. Once finished rpound of drainage tile or pipe should be installed so the water can be drained away from foundation. Please inform me if this solves the problem or not, Bill
R10: You might try Water Glass. If you apply it and it has enough time to dry it will not resolublize, thus sealing your stone. The other name for it is Sodium Silicate 42 degree Baume. Gordon Post
R11: Perhaps a sheet membrane [like our Chloraloy] could help solve the moisture problem. No doubt other things will be needed, but a sheet membrane is stronger and generally provides better waterproofing than liquid products. Richard
Q 4220: I need to replace the ceramic tile (12 "tiles) in our kitchen and dining area. (about 400 sq. ft). It is laid on concrete - in thinset. I want to replace the current tile with a more durable type. The present tile is not the same color all the way through and has several annoying discolored chips as well as several cracked tiles. The house is about 5 years old. Concrete slab foundation. (as are most in the Florida panhandle) How do I remove the current tiles and prepare the concrete floor to accept a better quality tile? Probably an 18" porcelain tile. I can find a lot of information on laying tile, but there seems to be very little info on removal. Knitsler, Nov19. Reply
Q 4219: I have spent the last couple of months creating a water feature (waterfall and koi pond) in my garden. I used weathered dolomite, which has a very interesting etched surface texture. In "fitting" the stones, a fair amount of cement came in contact with the stone surface, and I used a weak solution of HCl (20:1 with water) to remove the cement. Unfortunately, the acid solution also "cleaned" the outer, brown surface of the dolomite, revealing the clean grey stone below. Is there any way to restore the brown, natural weathered color? Is this color the result of oxidation? Can the stone be stained? Greg, Nov19. Reply
R1: You could likely stain it with a soluble iron compound that will convert to the oxide when put on the stone. Gordon
R2: Using an acid on stone is similar to having it on your hands. You have to restore the PH Balance. You can use any alkali or PH restorer, the natural color should come back. Best of luck!
R3: Regarding restoring to brown color of dolomite as it contanis iron in water the color has changed. only to repolish or cut and remove the area of the decolored areae size if original color to come ok, but if more porosity is there only new stone replacements as oxidiation has effected the surface. For all other things you can deal and spend time. Thanking you, Juleomartia
R4: Do not try to stain the stone. You 'll never be able to get the same color as the original. Allow a fair amount of time and the stone will weather evenly. Evan
R5: Paint the stone with natural yoghurt, David
R6: Dear Greg: No. Only time will do it again. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4218: I have a large crack and a 2 inch chip on an exterior granite wall. I was wondering if you had any ideas how I can repair, Marina, Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear Marina: Yes I do: hire a professional stone refinisher! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4217:  I would like to set up a fabrication shop in approx. 3000 to 5000 square feet of enclosed area. I would like to have a minimum amount of machinery. I will have an overhead crane system to handle moving the materials from the truck to the saw and in the shop. Most of the fabrication will be completed by hand in the shop. I would like to complete 2 to 3 kitchens per week. I would like to know how to "set up" the shop for the most productive processing of materials. I would like to spend as little as possible to get started with future machinery purchases as soon as necessary. Please provide any help in this matter. Gary, Nov19. Reply
R1: Before to quote the machine that you need i have to know wich production you want to do: top for Kitchens; table, sculpure,vaeses or workshop of tiles and slabs of stone?
wich kind of materials you want cut and work: marble or granite? Best regards, Maurizio Giuntoni
R2: Smoke and mirrors by granite wannabes. Manufactured is better. Selling by the Square Foot with everything while every required element is extra. Selling less than the standard (in our area) is 3cm. I could go on and on, Linda
R3: Please send a general email to findstone for this type of consultation. We can provide you with information however it is a fee based request. Regards, Steven
R4: Dear sir, please look at our opportunity before you decide anything, I can even send you a business plan. We are a manufacturer in Italy and Brazil with back up slabs here in the USA. we supply the equipment, and the know how. Its a business opportunity that's rare, with a support program with online shipping and ready made accounts. Lowes and Depot and so on please contact me. Robbie
R5: I would meet with every cabinet maker and interior designer in your area and get on their rolodex. I would also join the local builder's exchange to see what commercial countertops might be needed. I would also befriend an ace machinist- give him stone stuff and keep him around to help with machinery maintenance. You also want to check out the local zoning ordinances- you might have to have certain drainage strategies in place. Rotsa
R6: I have enough experience in layout of factories. Wher are you located? I believe that in order to give a good suggestion we have to see the place. Please write back.Marco
R7: We are a supplier of marble, granite, travertine slabs, and also the bridge saw machine. We will be happy to help you start your shop. Gonca
Q 4216: I am having my kitchen remodeled and today my decorator suggested that I might want to have granite kitchen counter tops instead of corian (or something similar). Can you advise on the pros and cons and what type of upkeep is required for granite? Thanks for your help. Debbie, Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear Debbie, If you choose wisely and get a quality granite the natural product is clearly superior to Corian and with zero maintenance (Dr. Hans)
R2: Dear Debby: It all depends from the "granite". Most "granites" are very enjoyable and indeed a much better choice over plastic (Corian and such), but certein other "granites" can turn out to be a maintenance nightmare, as you can gather by reading some of this site's previous posts. I can promise you that your interior decorator is not qualified to tell you whihc one "granite" is good an which one is not. And, most ot the times, alas, neither are the fabricators. I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone,
maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4215: I have a 1960's era home in Houston, Texas with terrazzo tile in the bathrooms (on the walls of the shower and the floors). My question is "How do you clean and restore this type of tile? The surfaces of the shower, in particular, appear dull and do not have any sheen. I have cleaned the showers with a tile cleaner and have repaired the grout. I am looking for an appropriate sealer to use on the terrazzo that will bring back a shine to the surface on the stone. Would appreciate any information you could provide. Thanks. Chester, Nov19. Reply

R1: Dear Chester: Your only option is to hire the services of a reputable stone restorarion contractor. No product in a bottle couldo solve your problem! Your terrazzo will need to be re-ground and refinished. Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I did write a very comprehensive article title “How to Shop for a bona fide stone restoration contractor”. It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You’ll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site’s postings! Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4214: Thank you for a GREAT site. We are considering placing Imperial Brown 12x12 "granite" tiles on our countertops and island in our new home. It will be sealed by the installer. It appears to have a low absorbtion rate. I have 4 young children who, despite being good kids, still spill their food and drinks. Also, my wife spends a moderate amount of time cooking in the kitchen (rolling dough, as well as griddle grease spatters, etc.). We are committed to regular maintinance of the stone, however I fear whether or not "granite" is a wise choice for a family kitchen. My sale's associate assures me this will work, but I don't know if she is completly unbiased because #1 "granite" will be more profitable for her than other choices and #2 she has no children and doesn't realize that part of my stone maintinance program will include the labor intensive "maintinance" of my children's kitchen habits. Will this "granite" choice be forgiving for a young family or will it quickly stain and become an esthetic nightmare? Nathan, Nov19. Reply
R1: There is an old expression that goes "You can't get blood from a stone". Many don't realize that this is a literal expression. If you cut your finger and bleed on a natural stone surface, you will be a long time getting the stain out. Stone is porous and will absorb liquids. In my opinion, next to blood, oil and grease are the next worse stains to get out.
A "sealer" is needed to protect the stone from stains. However, the protection lasts only as long as the sealer lasts. It is a just matter of time and the sealer, if not renewed when needed will wear off and the stone will be subject to staining. I would consider a man made substitute for your needs. Jim
R2: I have installed dark grantite in my kitchen and for the last 2 years I have no complaints. My household consists of more than 5 people and the persons working in the kitchen are my servants who have no idea of "careful" handling of the countertop. At any cost you should try to keep the shade of the granite (if you want to go for it) dark because oil does leave stains which will not come off. Otherwise you could even make a bondfire on the coutertop without much damage to the stone. Consider the oil issue otherwise I can only tell you that the money is wisely invested. Nothing better than granite. Regards, Hedi
R3: Nathan, You really should not worry about the staining of your stone tops. On a hardness scale of 1 to 10 (10 being a diamond), granite usually has a hardness of 7 and an extremely low absorption rate. With that in mind, that does not necessarily mean that it cannot be stained. Oils and some acidic elements could stain the granite if it is allowed to sit on it for extended periods of time. Therein, it should be worth mentioning that sealing the granite at lest once every two to three years with an impregnating sealer would be worthwhile. Plus, just being conscious of spills and cleaning regularly will ensure that your material retains its original appearance for many years to come. Rowan
R4: Granite is an excellent choice for countertops. In fact - even hot pots can be placed directly on to the granite surface.I would recommend the use of an epoxy grout though rather than going with cementitious. The granite must be sealed though - this is important!! I would recommend a premium sealer for food preparation areas. Pamas
R5: Have you considered a slate counter top? I have one in my kitchen for one year now. I do average amount of cooking and my live-in is not careful with use on the counter. I have grandchildren too. I have not "pampered the surface" and it looks great. Heat and acids do not affect this stone. I oil it with mineral oil about once a month "just cause I love it" and use a cutting board when preparing food that need chopping. I use the surface for rolling dough (pies or bread) and it doesn't stick.
I have scratched it once and all I did to "fix" it was oil it and the scratch disappeared. coffee or tea or wine or grease spatters do not stain this surface. DEBRA
R6: You may want to consider a one-piece Counter Top instead of Tile, Granite I pretty much Maintenance free and last forever with eternal sex appeal, there are some exceptions but porosity is not a problem in most Granite, you should be able to find this on ASTM Chart. (Ask your Supplier) Oils will get absorbed, but there are products to remove them. Rolling dough involves Lard and it probably will stain. Oil and Grease Stain will appear darker the original Color. See if you can get a scrap piece and test. Curd
R6: The particular stone itself may not need to be sealed at all. Test the polished surface with oil and lemon juice to see if they are absorbed within a 30 minute time period. I think, based upon your description granite tiles may not be the best solution for you. The 12x12 piecesare fine but the grout lines are another story. The dough and other spills would adhere and absorb into the grout. You are better off with a solid surface counter like granite slabs and a marble area for dough. Regards, Steven
R7: Granite is your best choice for Kitchen tops! It is an investment fo a lifetime. If you dont use it now.. you will use it later .. might as well start right!
R8: It'll NEVER be a nightmare. Once granite, always granite. Just make sure you get the correct one as even granite is porous to a certain extend, but can be sealed,- get advice as to how and what to seal with. Never install marble. Thomas
R1: Dear Nathan: "Granite" (the right one that is) is indeed the best choice that money can buy. However, I try to avoid commenting about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! (The same principlesw apply to tiles.) I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4213: We are interested to know if we can find a site where physical and chemical properties of sand stone ,slate and quartzites are available. Virendra, Nov19. Reply  
R1:   Dear Virendra, It is not difficult to get this information from a number of places but for what reason do you want these physical and chemical properties. In order to make use of them you need to understand the different types of stone and then their individual characteristics. There is no point in getting this information if you don't know what to do with it. Broad comparisons have little validity. (Dr. Hans)
Q 4212: HAVE OLD SLATE ENTRANCE FOYER WITH CHIPS, UNLEVEL PIECES (SOME PIECES A LITTLE HIGHER THAN PIECE IT BUTTS UP TO, ONE PIECE HAS BUBBLES. THOUGHT ABOUT A GRINDER SOLVING A LOT OF MY PROBLEMS, AND FOUND YOUR ADVICE COLUMN ON I-NET. YOU MENTIONED USING A GRiNDER TO REHONE. BEFORE I ATTEMPT TO RESURRECT THIS FLOORING, TELL ME A LITTLE OF WHAT I CAN & CANNOT DO, AND HOW TO BEGIN. BASICALLY IN GOOD SHAPE, BUT NEEDS SOME "TIDYING UP". I THINK I CAN DO IT. THE PIECE WITH BUBBLES IN IT (WHY THEY PUT IT DOWN, I DON'T KNOW). CAN I USE THE GRINDER TO MAKE THE PIECE FLUSH (I REALIZE I WILL HAVE RINGS, BUT LIKE THE RUSTIC LOOK). SOME FLAKING, BUT IT LETS ME SEE THAT LOT OF E DISCOLORATION IS SURFACE ONLY, CAN I SAND DOWN TO THE "GOOD STUFF? CAN'T WAIT TO HEAR BACK. THANKS, Sylvia, Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear Sylsvia: What on earth are you talking about? First off, if it's natural cleft slate you just can't grind it. Second, assuming that's not cleft, how do you plan to go about it? Doing it yourself? With what? Besides the extremely high skill level nevessary, they don't even rent equipment like that! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4211: We have been getting quotes for laying 12 x 12 marble tiles in our house (new construction). The subfloor is 2" lightweight concrete with radiant heating; the house is woodframe. One of the tilesetters is strongly advising using antifracture membrane, while the others say it is an option but not required. How important is this to prevent tile cracks? San, Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear San: Go with the contractor who advise to use the membrane. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected, and, as you can tell by reading many of this sites posting, you're not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4210: We are debating if we should have a newly installed slate floor sealed or not. Our builder says it is not necessary but he will seal it if we want him to. The slate is gauged and we are happy with the color and grout. The company that sold the slate recommends sealing it. We do not have children and this would not be a high traffic area. Also is there a recommended curing period after installation/grouting before you should seal? Please advise. Curtin , Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear sirs, Please refer your effort to seek advice on a flooring and polishing matter.If you do not want spend the money your floor will still give a decent look.you just have to keep cleening it at regular intervals. Regards, Pradeep
R2: Sealer is a MUST! Use a Silicone Impregnator... it is th ebest and will not show .. or change the color and look. Follow instructions on the packing, Ravi
R3: First question is where did the slate come from. geology is different in different parts of the world and each slate has different properties. Is the slate in a high traffic area, i.e. entryway, or shower stall? Is there a lot of moisture that could affect the stone's performance? We usually recommend for interior applications that the slate be sealed once with a water based sealer at time of installation prior to grouting just to protect the stone from the grout clinging to the surface. After that, nothing more needs to be done. Our slate is a very dense high quality slate. The same statement cannot be made from all slates. You need to check the origin of the product to make sure or ask the quarrier for technical test results i.e. water absorption rates. etc. Hope this helps. DEBRA
R4: All slate should be sealed whether indoors or outdoors. There are lots of choices of sealers - ensure that you pick a reputable company. Remember that you can achieve different looks with the sealers - everything from natural thru low sheen to high sheen and darkening. Pick the sealer that will give you the look you are after. With a breathable sealer you can seal 48 hours after installation is complete. Pamas
R5: Dear Curtin: First off what kind of sealer are we talking about? An impregnator/sealer for stone, or a topical hard-shell sealer? If it's an impregnator/sealer (below surface, that is; which is applied to prevent staining), then it all depends from the slates. Some slates don't require it, some others do and very much so. If it's a hard-shell topical sealer, then it's only a quastion of looks. It will protect the stone from surface scratching, bit the maintenance of the sealer itself will turn out to be a problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4209: How do I remove the oil stains on my granit cook top station? Yes I called the instaler last year when the area was small. I'm still holding my breath. Nov19. Reply
Q 4208: We are in the process of re-doing our kitchen. We chose Shivakashi granite for our counter top. We have already put a deposit on the granite, and are waiting for the cabinets to be installed so that the granite company can come an measure and make a templet. This is the first time I have seen your web site, and I find it wonderful. I read a comment someone made regarding their Shivakashi, and that they were having a hard time sealing it, and had thought of changing to another counter top. If I understood correctly you thought that was wise. Can you please give me some information, and comments regarding my choice of Shivakashi before I have it installed. If that is not the correct choice for a kitchen, I would like to know now. Thanks Nora, Nov19. Reply
R1: Dear Nora: Make sure that the slabs of Shivakashi your fabricator carries have been "resined" by the factory. If they're not, get out of your contract fast enough to leave skid marks on the ground!! You do NOT want that stuff in your kitchen. I'm not kidding, I do mean it. I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4205: Thanks for your site. I just wish I had found it prior to installing my granite. I just had "Blue Eyes" granite countertops installed yesterday. By the evening large grapefruit sized dark spots began to show up which I believe is the glue coming through the granite. The installer says this is normal and will dissipate within a week. The same installer put the same granite on our island a month ago, but it did not have this problem at all. Is "Blue Eyes" an actual granite or some other type of stone and is it very porous and easily stained? It is a gray with some taupe and some blue specks that shine in the light. Also, is it normal to have spotting after installation? I haven't heard or read anything indicating such. Thanks, Debbie, Nov15. Reply
R1: Kitchen tops:- granite
Bathrooms: marble + granite
Floors: entrance halls - marble;- throughout the house, depends on your colorscheme.
Outside: granite Wall cladding: granite and certain other natural stones depending on climatic region. Thomas
R2: Dear Debbie: I hope I'm wrong, but I'm afraid that you contractor is a bit too optimist about the disappearance of those stains. Anyway, wait and see. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4204: I plan on installing Mexican Honed Filled Travertine through most of my house including the high traffic areas, kitchen and bathrooms. I have a swimming pool and 2 labrador retreivers and was advised to NOT seal the floors. Based on everything I have read on this site, I understand there will be some wear and tear because it is a natural stone. I'm fine with that. However, if my dogs come in the house wet and lay on the stone will it damage it? Can their nails on their paws easily scratch the stone? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Jared, Nov15. Reply
R1: Dear Jared: I can see that you're in the right state of mind for natural stone! I would seal it in the kitchen and where the dogs usually lay when wet. Other than that, I wouldn't bother. I'm just wondering who's the person who told you not to seal your travertine. He or she is a stand out, all right and I love him or her already!! Yes you big dogs' nails will scratch the stone surface, but they won't be deep scratches and will be barely noticeable. Don't be concerned about it (it's part of the normal "change" due to wear and tear), and don't even think for a minute to get rid of your dogs!!
Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4203: I visited your site and would like to ask your advice in choosing a type of granite for my kitchen counters. I need something durable(my husband is not the neatest person, but I love him) and something that is not terribly high maint. We were at a granite store today in seattle and liked the looks of two types. What are the differences if any between agate and santa cecilia ark...besides the obvious color difference. Thanks for your help jennifer, Nov15. Reply
R1: Dear Jennifer: So, your husband's a slob, huh! So am I (if you don't believe me, ask my wife!) :-) I always avoid commenting about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4202: I am trying to find a marble called 'Venetian Green' what country does this come from (Middle East I believe) and what is the generic name? Jim, Nov15. Reply
Q 4201:   We are building a new home, and two weeks ago The Stone Source installed the granite countertops in our kitchen, a pattern called Golden Leaf. I am heartsick to see it is covered with randomly spaced chocolate colored splotches, solid in color, no flecks at all, which they said are "birthing marks," and if we wanted a more perfect granite we would have to "talk to God." There are about 30 on just the island alone. Very noticeable. I have toured show houses in four states over the past ten years, and have never seen splotches on the granite. Also, the longest piece - about 15 feet - is seamed in the middle with the granite on the left appearing at least two shades darker - although the owner of the business swears all the granite came from the same slab. Is this possible?
Your web site makes for very interesting reading, and I trust you will respond to my inquiry. Thank you. Mary, Nov15. Reply
R1:   Dear Mary: Your're right, there are seldom sploches in granite. But then again, you're talking about "Golden Leaf". What has that stone got to see with granite, besides being called so on the invoices of the distributors? If you don't like the sploches you shouldn't have to talk to God. More down-to-earthly, you should have simply chosen a stone without them. Of course, I can't comment about the difference in color between the two slabs used to make your island. Besides, what would you expect me to say about it? If it's possible? Yes, it is. It's up to the fabricator to try finding slabs that match as much as possible. Sorry to see that we have an unhappy camper, here, but without knowing all
the extent and particulars of the conversations between the parties, I don't feel like just blaming the fabricator. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
 
Q 4199: I was at a clients house, called in to try to match the piece the painter broke off the corner, and in the samples I brought there was a Galaxy Glitter that was the exact coloring, but I need LOTS of veins no patches. Can you find this material or just the name for me? Candy, Nov14. Reply
Q 4198:   I OWN AND OPERATE A SMALL RETAILCEMETERY MARKER BUSINESS AND WOULD LIKE TO EXPAND INTO DOING MY OWN CEMETERY DATING AND SIMPLE LETTERING. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS ANY MANUELS OR VIDEOS AVAILABLE TO HELP ME LEARN THAT PORTION OF THE GRANITE TRADE, Tim, Nov14. Reply
Q 4197: Please provide me with the physical and chemical properties for the egyptian stone, Ihab, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Ihab, "Egyptian stone" is very common term. It can be alabaster, granite, limestone, basalt and others. Each of them has different characteristics. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist., Expert Panelist
Q 4196: Thanks for all the great information on your website. I would like to put granite countertops in my kitchen. My question is, is one solid piece of granite better, or are 12" x 12" granite tiles a better way to go? I was thinking if I ever got a bad stain, chip, or something happened, then it would be better to have the tile because I could remove one tile if I had to. With a solid piece of countertop, I would be stuck if I couldn't get the stain out. What are your thoughts on this? Would it be easy to remove one bad granite tile? How would I finish the edges on granite tile? Would grout be a problem? Sealing? Also, any tips or things to look out for with 12" x 12 " tiles? I really know nothing about installation. (also, if you know a great place in Massachusetts to buy materials, let me know) Thank You for any information. Nov14. Reply
Q 4195: I am considering black galaxy granite for my kitchen counter tops, is this good or not so good? Thanks, Sandra, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Sandra: It's good enough for my own busy Italian kitchen (!), but I always avoid commenting about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4194: Italian Madura Gold granite. Is this suitable for a kitchen counter? Thanks. Sally, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Sally: I always avoid commenting about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
My husband and I walked through the Marble Center in Salem twice. The first time we chose a verde from Australia which it turned out, they didn't have enough of and the price was skyrocketing. The second time we went back we walked around and saw the Madura Gold that had just come in, still on the forklift. We liked it and bought it. No research. We thought all granite was great. Then I was worried about matching paint to it, got on the internet to print off the color, saw your site, started reading about granite and reallized for the first time, we could potentially have a problem, because all granite is not suitable for kitchens. I did some reading on Madura Gold and learned that there is some from India, Brazil, but I didn't see anything about Italian. So my inquiry to you. Your site is the most interesting and most informative of all I looked at - but like I say, I was just looking to print out a color sample, so my search was not so intensive as it turns out I might have done earlier with a little bit of awareness. So thanks for your help. What do you think about Italian Madura Gold for a kitchen counter?

Q 4193: I'm just writing to request your maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations. I'm thinking about a kitchen counter using some kind of granite tile. So far, it looks like the blue pearl might be my best choice with respect to maintenance and durability. Are there any stones which are intrinsically comparable to blue pearl but a little lighter in color? Robert, Nov14. Reply
Q 4192: I have found some travertine noce tiles in a 2x2 inch size. We would like these installed on an island backsplash (about 20 feet in length and 8 1/2 inch in height). We are also going to place them on the counter backs of other areas in the kitchen, such as behind the cooktop. What kind of adhesive should be used (ceramic mastic or marble mastic) I might install these myself. Should the grout be installed using a grout bag to prevent filling of the open pores. Is there any thing that should be done after all is installed, such as stone enhancers ect. As usual the salespeople don't seem to really know much about the stone tiles they sell, they seem to lump them in the same catagory as ceramic tile. We would like them to look as natural as possible. Thanks, Don, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Don: A backsplash on an island?? That's a first, all right! I just can't figure out where you're going to hang it!! From the ceiling, maybe ... :-) Amazing, ain't it, that the salespeople don't seem to know much about the stone they sell. Well, I've got news for you: strike the world "seem" and you'll have a more accurate picture!
1. Use a product called "Stone Setting Adhesive" by the Custom Builders company, available at the HD. I love that stuff!
2. You do want to grout after installation, because you DO want those holes filled!
3. A color enhancer should produce some result with noce travertine (other lighter colors won't be effected). Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4191: I have black granite countertops in my kitchen. This is a new construction home and I have no idea what type of granite it is (we are not on good terms with the developer due to other problems). We just noticed 2 rings left presumably by bowls that may have been wet (we are the offenders as this just happened within this past week). Is there an easy fix to this? I don't know anything about sealing or anything else. Is there something I can do to remove these stains as a layperson not knowing anything?? Also, we have marble floors and countertops in the bathroom. A wet paper cup was left on the marble top overnight (by my mom who was visiting) and there is a dull circle left there now. Is there a way to shine it so that it looks like the rest? Thanks for your help!! Patti, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Patty: I know exactly what happened to your black granite countertop and to your marble vanity top, and what you can do to rectify the problems without hiring a pro. You can find such solutions in many of my past answers, but if you don't want to spend much time seeking them, you're welcome to gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4190: We have cultured marble sinks, tubs, shower stalls and many are now very scratchy and worn. Is there a way to restore these? Austin, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Austin: In this site we only deal with natural stone. Just because they used the world "marble" when they christned that man-made plastic, it didn't turn it into the real thing! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4189: Can you please advise me on how to get rid of a stain, most likely a greasy one, tha I generated by putting a dirty pot on topa of a granite countertop. The granite is called "Jupparana something", is realy light in color and was sealed about 6 months ago by a sealer recommended by the installer. I think it was some kind of silicone in paint thinner like solvent. Thanks., Pavell, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Pavell: Typically "Juparana" "granites" need to be sealed real bad, with the right sealer and several times over, before it gets ... well, almost sealed! One apllication is most likely like nothing at all! To remove the stain try to poultice it out with Hydrogen Peroxide 30/40 volume, if it's only a plain food stain. If it's grease instead, poultice it out with acetone. I did write a comprehensive papaer about stain removal. It does carry a small price tag, but it's worth every penny of it and then some! It's certainly cheaper than any "professional poulticing kit" you can buy at a stone and tile retail outlet, and that no real professional worth their salt will ever use! If your fabricator -- like they seem -- can't help you with that, you may want to coinsider my information. Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelis
t
Q 4188: What type of surface prep would have to be done to install marble over a cement slab where fairly new linoleum has been installed? I am afraid removing the linoleum may create more problems than just leaving it. Thanks for the great site. So many of my questions have been answered in the many hours I have spent reading the posts. Thanks again, Michael, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Michael: Hmmm ... I don't know, man. I don't think that thinset will bond to linoleum. If it were a regular floor I would suggest to nail down either wire-lathe or 3/8" cement board over the linoleum. But you have cement slab underneath, so the nailing thing ... I'd remove them linoleum tiles, if I were you. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny of it and then some! You won't find anything like that anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4187: I bought some marble tile to do my entryway from home depot. The floor has existing tile on it (yuk), so once I remove it the floor should be good to go for the marble. My question is concerning the marble. All research I have done says green and black marble has a tendency to curl. This tile is dark grey with white and pink quartz veins. It is ST SYGUS BROWN, made in China. Is this considered black? What class of tile is this? Do I seal the bottoms of the tile before I set it in modified white thinset? Matt, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Matt: Green marble does have the tendency to curl. Black? Never heard that one! Never saw any curled black tile on floors, either! Use white thin set and you should be all right. If oit's a small entry way, I would consider using the "Stone Setting Adhesive" by the Custom Builders company, available at the HD. I love that stuff!! Keep 1/16" gap fro proper grouting, and use black sandless grout. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4186: My husband put our bathroom sink in with caulk last night and it is on a marble top, Please tell us what to get to remove the caulk without damaging the top. It is all around the base of the sink. Thank You, Mary, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Mary: Nothing's easier than that! Use a brand-new razor blade. I kept flat on the surface of the stone it will NOT scratch it. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
Q 4185: Hi: We recently bought Baltic Brown granite kitchen countertops. Compared with other "slabs" we've seen, the one we had installed has a fairly dull/hazy surface. We'd prefer a highly polished surface. Our fabricator/installer said they can't do that...of course they already have our money. Question: Is there a way someone can come into our home and polish these countertops to a high gloss without removing them? IF so, could you recommend someone in the Philadelphia area? Thanks, Mark, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Mark: If the factory couldn't polish it to the degree that you'd like to see, then I'm afraid it can't be improved. Not all stone polishes the same way. Or it could just be that your particular slab was not a stellar grading. Either way, I doubt that anybody could do anything about it. I do know a good stone refinisher in the Philadelphia area who could come out and take a look. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
Q 4184: I am putting Giblee Granite Countertops in my kitchen and I am wondering if this is a proper choice for a kitchen countertop. Please advise. Scott, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Scott: No, it's not, in my opinion. But then again, if it was treated by the factory (not your fabricator) in a certain way, it could be. Still confused? If you -- like it appears -- don't trust too much your fabricator, you should get your own intelligence on the subject. I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4183: I work for California and are expanding our Countertop department as we manurfacture Corian, Formica, and Granite countertops and may be expanding into Marble. We have a hard time locating experienced installers and fabricators? We pay very well, do you have any suggestions? Lupi, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Lupi: Maybe "very well" is not good enough. You should try "better than anybody
else"! That should work, all right! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4181: What is the best non-toxic, obviously, way to clean my marble pestle and mortar of the stains acquired by crushing fresh herbs etc, Lisa, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Lisa: You can soak it in a solution (3:1) of water and household bleach for a day or so. That'll work all right, and with no damage to the stone. The question is: Why do you want to get rid of those stains? They are not unsanitary and give so much "character" to your pestel and mortar!! But, hey, it's just me! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4180: We just bought a home with cheap imitation marble counter tops in the bathroom They are in poor shape and we will replace some day. They are off white in color and the finish or polishing is also poor. But in the meanwhile I would like to fix a few chips around the lip of the sink. They are very noticeable and anything would look better. Is there anything that we can fill in these chips with and then sand or polish? It wouldn’t have to be perfect since the rest of the counter is old, Lisa, Nov14. Reply
R1: Dear Lisa: If it's a cheap imitation of marble, why do you came to this site? Unfortunately, we don't know anything about imitations of stone! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4179: As you say, maintenance begins before purchase and selection. If you have some guidelines I'd appreciate hearing. Would like to put brownish red marble by the range and travertine on the island.I'd be careful about wiping up but as I read on the forum, sometimes even the fastest wiper is no match for and intrusive liquid.steven, Nov14. Reply

R1: Dear Steven: Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! However, if you're thinking polished marble and travertine, save your money. No guideline or "miracle-in-a-bottle" will do you any good! That's exactly why -- like you pointed out -- maintenance begins at the time of the selection of the stone!! If it's polished marble and travertine, that IS the wrong selection! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4178: Could you get me more information on lava stone pavers, Karen, Nov14. Reply
Q 4177: We are having flagstone installed on our patio. The area will be used for entertaining and there will be a free standing fire place and barbecue located in the flagstone area. Our builder has recommended against sealing but our understanding is that it should be sealed. Can you advise on this, and if sealing should be done, what sealer is best. Thanks. John , Nov13. Reply
R1: Dear Jhon: Well, what kind of stone are you talking about? I understand you wrote flagstone, but which one stone is it made of? Let me know, then I'll let you know! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4176: We live in a 98 year old house. Our basement walls our limestone. We would like to repair a few spots that are flaking..and then paint. What should we use to clean the walls..and then repair them? Thanks for any advise. John, Nov13. Reply
Q 4175: I totally love your site but am now nervous about my decision. I selected GOLDEN BEACH NEW (I believe also known as Juparana Persa) for my kitchen counter tops. I purchased my hand-selected slab direct from IGM and was advised this was an excellent choice. Do you agree? This stone is not referenced in many places. Do you know the history? vIs this cross reference to Juparana Persa correct? Thank you. Joanne, Nov13. Reply
R1: Dear Jaonne: Ever since they closed down the original quarry of Juparana Colombo in Shri Lanka, a whole army (and counting!) of "Juparanas" has springed up from all over the world! I personally never considered Juparana as a good choice for a kitchen countertop (too darn porous), but then, I never heard of that particular brand-new Juparana Persa, either! Besides, I learnt to steer away from commenting on any particular stone. There can be differences (and not only in looks) within the same stone, from one bundle of slabs to the next! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4174: Hello, I have new granite kitchen countertops made from Bronzino (Black Galaxy) granite. I noticed that there are a couple of scratches and I would like to know if the scratches could be polished away, or what else I could do to remove them. I have been extremely careful with the counter and cannot imagine how the scratches got there in the first place. I thought you could even cut on granite (I have NOT done this, however) without scratching it. My countertop is only two months old -- please help. Thank you, Joan, Nov13. Reply
R1: Dear Joan: I have bad news and good news! The bad news is that nobody can't get a scratch out. A scratch is something missing already! How could you possible get a hole out of a doughnut?! The answer is: You eat the doughnut and the hole is gone! :-) The good news is that your damage can be repaired. In other words, you need a professional stone refinisher to come out and slightly grind your granite surface off down to the depth of the scratches, then honing and re-polishing the area to match the rest of the surface. It's going to cost you, but it's only money! Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4172: Considering buying granite, but concerned about possible staining. Would appreciate your input/instructions/precautions. Thanks, Jim, Nov13. Reply
R1: Dear Jim: There are plenty possible choices among the mercantile granites available that will make you a happy camper. On the other side of the coin, there are other "granites" that won't! This very site is soaked with the tears of inquirers who didn't do some basic homework before making a decision and trusted the stone"expertise" of dealers and contractors! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 4171: The interior of our church has Crab Orchard Sandstone. Over the past few years we have noticed a water leak from the roof structure. The water has run do