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Q 8399: Been reading your responses to
others and learning some of the main points in installing this stone in
our new kitchen on the floor and backsplash. In talking with our contractor
the question came up as to the need to either glue the durarock to the
3/4 subfloor and screw it vs. use a felt moisture barrier and screw the
heck out of it without glueing it. In the first instance we would use
a moisture barrier on the grown (6 ml.plastic). Q 8398: We are considering Sucuri Brown (not the veined Juparna Sucuri) for our countertops in our kitchen. I have never even heard of this color before today. I'm wondering how hard of a granite it is and if it will repel stains. Also, I am looking for pictures from someone who had it installed in their kitchen. Please help. Kami, Reply R1: Dear Kami: “I have never even heard of this color before today.” Neither did I! :-)I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8397: I thought of using slate on my entry way and to hold a fireplace but what eles can I use? Reply R1: Dear Tonya: You could use slate for your fireplace (not on the hearth, though), but you don’t want it on your floor!If you like the look of slate, get some look-alike porcelain tiles instead. They’re just about bullet-proof! Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8396: Our lovely brand-new countertops made of Wild West Green are staining at an alarming rate...but only near the food-prep/eating areas. I have tried (and failed) to stain the original (unsealed) sample I was given. I know that it is the same stone because I saw them remove it from my slab. Are my stains in the sealer and not the in the stone itself? How shall I address this problem? I have not seen any discussion of Wild West on your website, Reply R1: Dear Collen: We never discussed Wild West Green because nobody ever inquired about it so far. :-)Back to your problem, most consumers are unable to tell the difference between a stain and a “stain”. Since they’re both discolorations, they called them all stains. A stain is always darker than the material it discolored, while a “stain” is always lighter. There are no exceptions to this rule. Now, before we go any further trying to find the solution to your problem, why don’t you tell us how your discolorations look like? Then we’ll take it from there. Fair enough? Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8395: Hi – thank you for all your info on the website. Do you know anything about a granite called VanGogh? I am in the Midwest and fabricators here said it must go by another name – they have never heard of it. I saw it elsewhere on the Internet, but here is a link to the slab I fell in love with! Thanks for any assistance. Annie, Reply R1: Dear Annie: Do yourself a favor: log on Google and make a quick search on Grigio Sardo granite or Rosa Porrino granite. These two stones [b]are[/b] granite. Now tell me if your Van Gogh thing has any resemblance whatsoever with granite. (Please, don’t ask me what it is because I have no idea, other than being positive about the fact that it ain’t no granite by a huge shot!)You’d better run some serious test before you decide on that stone! I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more
important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted
in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator.
That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone
in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable
fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” R1: Dear Kathy:
Being that I’m 25% colorblind and all, I will stay out of the decorating
business. R1: Dear Marylyn: If you run a quick search on Google you will find out that there’s more than one Golden Oak. They are all stones of dubious geological classification. None of them is granite and they are most likely orthogneiss. These kinds of stones are the perfect candidates for some heavy resining by the factory to try to minimize their major drawbacks, which are high absorbency and extensive grittiness, not to mention the “upgrading” of low-grade slabs. The resining always enhances the color of the surface of the slab, but certain resins make it real darker. When a fabricator polishes the edges – which are not resined, of course – no matter how well the polishing is done, the color will always be lighter compared to surface of the stone. A color enhancer will only work when the difference is not much. Apparently it is not your case. It’s a good thing that you’re in the hands of a reputable fabricator! There is not much else that I can tell you from here. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8392: I have (well I hope I have!) a blue granite sink and drainer, the drainer is AOK the sink however is all stained and I do not know how to clean it! HELP please Regards, Hazel, ReplyR1: Dear Hazel: From your description I can’t figure out what the real problem is, but I assure that your “stains” are not stains and can not be cleaned. Only a reputable stone restoration contractor could take care of that, providing that your sink is natural stone at all. In fact, what I can also promise you is that what you have is granite just as much as I am from another planet! :-( Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8391: We're building a new home and have selected New Venetian Gold granite for the kitchen counter tops. A question came up about how the hole for the sink should be cut. Both sides of the sink (Kohler cast iron) and the back are flush with the sides of the granite, but the front edge of the sink is about 3/4 inch in from the edge of the granite (looks like the hole was cut too large from front to back. Should all edges be flush with the stone, or is it preferable to have the sink "inset" from the edge of the stone? Thanks, Irv, ReplyR1: Dear Irv: It sounds to me like they cut the hole a bit too large, but what can I tell you, there’s not much that can be done at this point, is there? There are no specific industry standards on how the sink should fit the hole, as you can understand; so, I reckon that all is left is to try to work things out with your fabricator. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8390: I'd like to know your suggestion for the best granite to use for kitchen and bath counters. I've recently found your Q & A list online and noticed you've extended your regrets to many people when they mentioned what type of granite they have. I'd like your advise before I select one. If the question is entirely too broad, what information do you need to narrow it down?Also, what is your thought on soapstone vs. granite, both in durability and ease of care and in its effect on the home's resale value, since granite is the more commonly found stone in use right now? Thank you, Stormy, Reply R1: Dear Stormy:
Comparing granite to soapstone would be like comparing an orange with
an apple. They are both easy to maintain but are totally different from
one another. As for the resale value of the house, personally I believe
that granite is more sellable than soapstone, but it's just me. R1: Dear Donna: Why,
thank you for your nice words! We have honed black slate (from Pennsylvania) countertops - but we DID NOT seal them and now they have some marks (mostly water stains, maybe some oil) and some scratches. I feel like I use mineral oil all the time!!! It looks lovely but does not last. As soon as I wipe down the countertops the oil goes away and they scratches and stains reappear. I want to: Remove the stains and hopefully the scratches and then SEAL them so that I can prevent new scratches. PLEASE HELP - how can I remove the stains
and scratches, should I sand? I want to: Remove the stains and hopefully the scratches and then SEAL them so that I can prevent new scratches.” What you want is what everybody and his mother wants, too. Too bad it just doesn’t exist, because if it did I wouldn’t be bashing at slate! :) You can’t remove the stains for the simple reasons that they’re not stains, but acid etches, which means that they are surface damages, just as the scratches. There is nothing available in the entire galaxy that can prevent those “stains”. You can’t remove the scratches, either, because you don’t have the equipment, you don’t have the material and, above all, you don’t have the know-how and, consequently you would never be able to reproduce the factory finish. You would need a professional to do that. But what’s the point? After the restoration contractor left it will take only a couple of days before you have new scratches. That is what slate is all about! :-( Your only option is to make friends with a good-quality stone color enhancer (such as my amazing MB-6), which will give you on a permanent basis the look that you get when you treat your countertop with mineral oil. Of course, every time you etch or scratch your slate you will have to keep applying the product. You will also use specialty cleaning products (such as MB-5 or MB-17) to care for your stone and the color enhancer. There, don’t tell
me that I told you to throw away your countertop! :-) R1: Dear Toby: Two virgin olive oil (or should it be extra virgin? :?) fans in two days! Mmm … I’m wondering if it’s the beginning of a trend?... I wouldn’t be at all surprised though: come up with something idiotic in the stone industry and you’re going to find a flock of followers!! :-) FYI, olive oil may take longer than other vegetable oils but WILL rancid. If you read the previous thread that I mentioned and that’s linked above, I won’t need to make any further comment, other than enhancing the fact that end-users of natural stone products need marblecleaning.net and what it stands more than ever!! Yeah, you’re right,
it’s tool late to fire the butt of your “Michelangelo”,
but do NOT let him do the olive oil treatment! R1: Dear Mary: Same
stone, two names! :-) Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8385: HI, we are about to lay puglia stone (lapidea) absorbant light colored tile to concrete skreed. I have some doubts about the contractors expertise. First his tilers were going to place a 5 mm space between the tiles which are a 4 module pattern. The tiles are sized in a way that they fit together ONLY without any spacer. This stone is a type of marble. Is it necessary for marble tiles to have grout? We also changed the adhesive from gray to white due to the risk of absorption and spotting through the tile. Anything else I should be aware of here. We found a new tiler who is going to do the job, but I don't want to risk anything unneccessary. thanks, ReplyR1: Dear Kathi: I am from
the Northern part of Italy, but when I was back in my country I spent
most of my professional life in the Puglia region. I thought I knew all
the marbles quarried in that region, yet I never heard of that particular
stone! Maybe the opened the quarry after I moved to the USA back in 1981.
At any rate, if it’s a marble you need to have grout, end of the
debate. 2 mm. is “your man”. Of course, if the floor is going
to be installed with the “grind-in-place” method (like it should,
especially considering that you are posting this query from Italy), then
it would be a different story. R1: Dear Fred: When
it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means
that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of
literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”,
and what to do about the latter! Q 8383: We had our Uba Tuba counter tops installed in our kitchen 6 days ago. The installer said to wait 5-7 days and then seal them with 511 impregnator sealer. After searching your website for the answer to our question about whether to seal this kind of granite or not, I am getting the impression that maybe this is not the best thing to do. We don't want to wait any longer to seal the counter tops if that is the proper way to care for this type of granite but we also don't want to make the mistake of sealing something that we should not. Could you please tell us what we should be doing to take the best care of our Uba Tuba including sealing and cleaning? Thank you for your help. Sincerely, Joyce Apr, Reply R1: Dear Joice: There
are a few quarries of Ubatuba and the stone they produce is not the same,
although with most characteristics in common. Most Ubatuba do not need
to be sealed, but a few just might. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8382: We just had granite installed in our home. I stumbled across your web site. I want to know purous our selections are. Creme chianti, Silver Sea Green and Monte Carlo, Reply R1: Dear Joanne & Austin: (ladies first! :)) Your fabricator must be a master at playing the “name game”. I never heard of Crème Chianti or Monte Carlo granites. Silver Sea Green may or may not need to be sealed.How to find out? Quite simple: spill some water in a couple of spots of your stones, let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother. Simple enough for ya?! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8381: I have a one year old granite kitchen
that has oil stains from frying splatter. I have read your fix for this,
a poltice of paper towels and Acetone which I will try. The sales people
where I bought the installation told us to use a poltice then seal the
stone with a good grade of virgin olive oil. Have you an opinion on this
sealing? It appears I have a sealed granite or very dense stone. I put
the drop You’ve GOT to be kidding me!! If not, the question that comes to my mind is: is there a limit to human stupidity?! :-) You’re supposed to remove the oil stain and then “seal” the countertop with oil??!! Why bother poulticing the oil stain out to begin with?!!... Oh, yes, I almost forgot: probably the stain that you have was not made by a “good grade of virgin olive oil”! Hence the poulticing of the bad oil, hence the subsequent staining (oops, I meant “sealing”) with the good oil! Did the sales person suggest any particular brand of extra virgin olive oil? What’s better, the Italian or the Spanish one?!! :-) :-) :-) Also, did they mention anything about what you’re supposed to do when the “good grade virgin olive oil” will begin to rancid inside your stone??!!! :-( Shivakashi is a “sponge”, unless it was resined by the factory; and if your fabricator sealed it, they obviously didn’t do a good job if you have an oil stain. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8380: The marble trim around my shower door has absorbed iron stains from using well water. What can I use to clean this marble? My husband said I can use Iron Out. Is this true? Thank you Virginia, Reply R1: Dear Virginia: Iron Out in a poultice could only work is the rust stain was actually produced by well-water rich in iron mineral. If your marble is White Carrara or White Thassos (which contain a percentage of iron mineral) the rust could be the consequence of migration of moisture through the core of the stone if you have grout or caulk missing near or around the marble saddle. In such case, nothing could remove that stain, because the stone itself would be rusted through and through. Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 8379: I was to have my granite installed
on a 6' by 3' area or the standard Let’s continue: The installer said that they do one pieces all of the time without problems around the sink, but the owner of the granite place is trying to convince me that every piece will break, and that 4 pieces is standard, what are your thoughts? At this point I don’t have any thoughts unless you can make me understand the situation. It appears to me that the installer and the fabricator are two different contractors and that they are in disagreement about something. One (the installer) maintains that they do one piece around the sink (meaning?) all the time with no problem, but the fabricator maintains instead that every piece will break … If it is one piece, why “every” piece will break? How many pieces are they? One or more than one? And then you mention four pieces again. If one piece broke and are planning to make one seam, where are the other two pieces coming from? And where is that one seam? I would really like to help you, but I just don’t get the picture. Could you please clarify for me? Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8378: I'm so glad I found your web site tonight! We were planning to install a quality Italian porcelain tile floor in our kitchen but then I saw a home with a gorgeous ferrous slate kitchen floor. The stone company said ferrous slate is very durable and will last forever. They let me bring home a couple of slate tiles & the bottom edge of one chipped. The slate is beautiful but after seeing this chip & after reading your comments at this website, I'm scared of the slate. Is porcelain (with a "V" PEI rating) a much better choice for this high traffic area? We don't want to replace this flooring again in 10 years. Thank you, Debbie, ReplyR1: Dear Debbie:
This a natural stone place and we are all natural stone people, but mark
my words: you do NOT want any slate, ferrous or otherwise on your kitchen
floor – or any other floor for that matter! R1: Dear Inquirer: You may be able to find some “cultured marble” (whatever that means! It’s manmade plastic material) that may resemble White Carrara marble, but it’s much more delicate and just about impossible to repair. Within the natural stone realm, there’s nothing that come even close to the look of White Carrara, or any other marble, for that matter. Besides, even a different marble would have the same maintenance issues of White Carrara. Talking about which, my mother back in Italy has a White Carrara table top since 1949 and she still uses it every day. Tony’s Pizza around the corner from my house has a White Carrara top where they roll their dough every single day for only the gods know how many years! So, about not being a durable material I beg to differ with whoever told you otherwise! Let’s just say that, it may present maintenance issues if one expects from it more that it can deliver. About the use of marble in a kitchen I consider it a culture issue. All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it! How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought “lived-in” look. While the looks of an old
pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North
America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most
people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time,
and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but a
damage that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. The question now
is: regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups
do you belong to? :-) R1: Dear Lory: Regardless of the fact that you’re not using proper cleaning agents for your stone, the “mysterious” “ghost rings” that you have are not stains by a long shot; therefore you will never be able to get rid of them by poulticing. It would be like trying to poultice a scratch out! I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. I also know that your fabricator is the sole cause of your problem. Considering the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair that you give them a chance to rectify the situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8375: Please advise what is the best tile or stone that I could use for a kitchen floor. I am looking for a stone look, with very low maintenance. Is ceramic still my best choice?? I also do not want to spend a fortune on a floor that will be tracked on with kids, teens and their friends all about. I love beautiful yet practical, please advise. By the way I have maple cabinets in toasted almond color and with a waterfall green coto granite countertop. Very nice contrast, anyway pls advise. Loida, ReplyR1: Dear Loida: I’m a stone man and my heart bleeds while telling you that your best bet is to consider stone look-alike porcelain tiles. I can’t think of any natural stone – this side of flamed granite – that could withstand the kind of traffic you’re describing to us. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8374: Hi I have a problem that i hope you can help me with.I had a marble front put on my fireplace.The person that did it took off to mexico so i am left with this problem. The marble is black with white veins.The recess part of the fireplace is nice and shiny like most marbles ,the out side of the fireplace which is about 10 slabs of the marble are very smooth and very clean but has no shine to it .He did the sanding with the different grades of sandpaper to smooth the edges that he wanted to round off and went over the slabs that are now not shiny .I tried using high gloss lacquer on it but when i sprayed it on it just disappered. Do you know how i can get all the marble to shine .It does not look to good this way . I guess i was to trustworthy with my mexican worker. thank you for any help you can give me . Claire, ReplyR1: Dear Claire:
High gloss lacquer, huh!... :-) Some have said that we should have used an isolation barrier, but can't explain why that helps. I will add that this floor traverses over the new addition and the older part of the home (15 years old). The original structure has obviously completed any shrinking or adjusting. Any thoughts and suggestions that you have would be very welcome. We have ordered new stone and the installer is planning to cut out and remove the cracked pieces (about 80 of them!). I am fearful that they will just crack again. Can you explain this phenomenon? Do you have any suggestions for me? 2) BTW, I would never use travertine in the kitchen again. We have had problems with it chipping with pieces popping out leaving small and medium sized craters and with spills that have etched the floor -- lemon juice and my dog's vomit for two examples. The etching is visually noticeable in certain lighting conditions and by touch. These pieces will be replaced, but for future spills, what do your recommend as the appropriate restoration method?
3) Also, our counter tops are Impala Black (actually Impala Blue, just like Impala Black, but with a few iridescent blue flakes here and there). We love the look and all is going well with it. Hopefully this decision was right. What can you tell me about this stone? It was sealed by the installers, but is due for a second application. Do you recommend sealing it? What product, if so? Thanks for your services... what a great resource! Jim, Reply R1: Dear Jim: I
will answer your last question for free: “It was sealed by the installers,
but is due for a second application. Do you recommend sealing it? No,
I do NOT! Consider yourself lucky that you didn’t have any problem
because of the sealer that your fabricator applied to your countertop!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist R1: Dear Cindy:
There are two options to solve your problem: You have those two tiles
replaced. You have a professional stone refinisher in your area come and
hone those two tiles. Better yet, have them hone the whole floor for you
by using honing powder. You will not believe your own eyes when the job
will be finished! IMO honed factory finish is not fit for sale. R1: Dear Karen: Of
course there is! There are actually two ways to go about it: If you want
to do it yourself you can join my next three-day class on stone refinishing
that will be held in Folcroft, PA July 20-27. Besides the cost of the
class itself ($800.00) you will have to consider traveling, food and lodging.
You will also to factor in approximately $5,000 for equipment and materials
that you will need to do the job. You can hire a professional stone refinisher
in your area that will do the job for you. Should choose the second option,
you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point
of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
R1: Dear Martha: The answer to the first question is, no. Which lead to the automatic answer to the second question, that is, yes, you do! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8369: I am a fabricator in the greater Pittsburgh area. I have been reading your reply for three years now. Fabulous stuff! My father started the business in 1975, he came here from Pedichiano,AQ,Italy. I am 35, have a B.S. in electrical engineering and worked as a software engineer. So I like to do alot of research.. I spent 9 months researching which new saw to buy to update my fathers 1950 stonesaw(you know with the rails), finally I bought a park ind sierra and I love it.I use flat bar rodding technique, I have learned through trial and error to repair cracks on back splashes and sinks fairly well. for example, one time a back splash (Giallo Vicenza) broke and I roded it and the next day took a dremel tool with a diamond tip and traced the crack. Then used a sledge to polverize the same color stone and mixed it in the epoxy with some tint color matching. and repolished the face. Turned out beautiful... I asked the man at the kitchen and bath store(was for a display) to find the flaw and he couldn't until I pointed it out for him.finally, my point in emailing you... what do you think about me using that same techique on seams. I have tried and tried to perfect my work... seams are one of the things that is most important to clients. grazie, Reply R1: Dear Reno: The seaming is one of those areas in the fabrication process where you separate the men from the boys. However, the technique you described to repair a crack – which is very good indeed – would not work well with granite seams. If nothing else it would involve grinding and re-polishing the surface of the slab at the seams to match the factory finish all the time; that’s a chancy proposition right there!! Go with epoxy. There are a few techniques to make the seams barely visible. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8368: I am trying to determine for a client if polished or honed surface would be the best surface for their lifestyle. The pros and cons of one verses the other? Thank you for your response. ReplyR1: Dear Charles: Besides black, most granites are very good in both versions, providing that when honed they’re treated with a good-quality stone color enhancer (like my outlandish MB-6) instead of an impregnating sealer. To summarize the difference about routine cleaning, it’s like comparing a polished stainless steel surface with a satin-finish one. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8367: I have purchased Verde Peacock for my kitchen countertops and if Iam reading Maurizio correctly he is saying in several posts that it does not need to be sealed. Am I correct? Which of his products will best serve this stone? I also purchased Verde Fuoco for my Master Bathroom counter, same questions apply, seal or not, which products best serve this stone. Thank you so much. I should like to add I have sauturnia going on my floors and prefer honed floors. It will be in the foyer, dining room, kitchen, and MB bath. Reply R1: Dear Becky: Verde
Peacock does not need to be sealed. About the Verde Fuoco I’m not
very familiar with it. Spill some water in a couple of spots of your countertop,
let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas
under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker
than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating
sealer. If not, don’t bother. R1: Dear Becky:
Let me get this straight: You seem to be unable to get your engineered
stone countertop clean with a glass cleaner and, consequently you went
to the experts at the Big Box store and when you asked them what to use
to clean your countertop they told you that engineered stone shouldn’t
be sealed … Is that right? R1: Dear Wilford:
Of course I did. And I’m very jealous of it, too! My chemist tried
to find out how they did it, but it just gave up! It comes liquid inside
a bottle, but if you perform the proper (secret) rites before and after
the application, it will turn into hard diamond again, and everybody lived
happily ever after!! And, of course, you do need it!! I’ve heard
of a few people being turned into zombies without it. In the best case
scenario you will get terrible nightmares and your family tree will get
coursed for three generations down the line!! :-) R1: Dear Liz: Not that I know of. That is one of the major problems with slate. Due its natural cleft finish, scratches and etchings can’t be repaired, because the only way to do that is by slightly grinding the surface of the stone, which would imply a perfectly flat surface. The only way to make the scratches “disappear” is with the application of a good-quality stone color enhancer. That could change the depth of color of the whole tile, however. To find out what I mean, try to rub some baby oil over the scratch. What you’ll see (which will last no more than a few hours, a day top) is what you will be getting by applying a good-quality stone color enhancer like my mythic MB-6! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8363: I have an oily stain on my new countertops and need to remove it using the poultice method you have described. Are there any granites that can be harmed by the acetone, or are all of them same to have it used on. The type of granite I have is St. Cecilia and it is very light, and I suspect it is poorly sealed. After I remove the stain (if I can) I will seal it. Thanks in advance. Ann, ReplyR1: Dear Ann: Not only are there no granite that could be harmed by acetone, but there’s not a single stone that could be harmed by it, or any other mineral solvent for that matter. Your suspicion about the possibility that your stone was not sealed properly sounds pretty reasonable to me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8362: I was wondering if you know a way to remove stains on brick from un-polished granite run-off. I have porus white brick, with granite steps and the there are dark discolorations from the water run-off. I've tried bleach, simple green and hydrochloric acid with no positive results. It looks like scale is forming. thanks, Vincent, ReplyR1: Dear Vincent: I’m no brick expert, but I know enough about granite to promise you that – no matter which granite or “granite” it is – it will never stain anything!! I really don’t know what your problem might be without seeing your situation, but it sounds to me like you have a migration of moisture problem, with consequent efflorescence. Your best bet is to get hold of a reputable contractor and consult with them on location about finding a solution to your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8361: I just recently layed tile in a 1200sq ft area i was wondering how do i charge for the labor i have done? ReplyR1: Dear Eva: Let me try to understand this: You’re not a professional tile installation contractor (or else you wouldn’t be asking such a “weird” question), yet you installed 1200 sq ft of tiles, right? But you started the job without any agreement with the customer on what you would charge them, right? And now you’re asking advice on how much you should charge for the work that you’ve already performed, right?! Well, under the circumstances I have only one answer for you: charge as much as possible!!! I mean, gimme a break, will ya?!! :-) :-) :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8360: We recently purchased grey carrera marble for our bathroom floor. I'm trying to recreate the bungalow era in our 1928 home. do you suggest we seal the marble after installation? thank you for your help. Karen, ReplyR1: Dear Karen: If
you really think that in the bungalow era they were sealing their marble
floors, go ahead and seal it! :-) R1: Dear Gina: Another
inquirer from the Land Down Under! Get yourself a good fabricator and go with granite! If you don’t like it shiny, you can always have it hone-finished (light colors are not a problem like black). But… I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8358: We had polished ubba tuba installed in our kitchen about 4 years ago. Last week I notice a small chip in once of the edges (maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 inch). I believe it's a double pencil with a 1/4" radius. Can anything be done to repair and/or camoflague. I would sincerely appreciate any advice. Thanks! Deidre, ReplyR1: Dear Deidre:
Of course something can be done. Not by you, however! :-( R1: Dear Lynn: Unfortunately, this is not, by and far a DIY project. Regardless of the filler, once it’s applied it will have to be ground flush with the rest of the floor and brought up to the same finish. Your best bet is to consult with a bona fide stone restoration contractor. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8356: My son left some corn chips on our gray stone hearth. Needless to say the chips left grease marks. I'm not sure of the type of stone or even if it's natural or man-made. Any suggestions for getting rid of the grease stains? I'm afraid of making things worse. Thanks! ReplyR1: Dear Bart: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8355: I have just been reading a forum with your comments in it about slate flooring – and wonder if you can tell me if there is ANYTHING that can be done to make cheap brown/grey slate flooring look better, or is the only way to fork out lots of money and get it covered, or refer me to a site with the info I need. I hope there is a cheaper alternative as its a huge area and I don’t want to take out a 2nd mortgate. Thanks Lesley Fry, Brisbane, Australia, ReplyR1: Dear Lesley: Quite a few inquiries from the land Down Under, lately! :-) I have a couple of simple questions for you: Do you currently have a hard-shell polyurethane-like sealer onto the slate? If the answer is yes, then the only way to remove the stuff from such a large floor is by a lightly sandblasting it. After that, you will put your floor on a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent, NOT a stone soap). Do you have any wax or other strippable topical finish on your floor? If so, then you will have to have it stripped by a professional janitor and then, once again, put your floor on a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent (NOT a stone soap). If you don’t have any coating at all, does your floor look much better when it’s wet than when it’s dry? If so, starting right away with a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent (NOT a stone soap) will help a lot. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8354: I have a very small countertop (112" by 20" with a sink that takes up 33" x 19") that I am going to tile. The cost of having such a small slab installed is quite prohibitive. I debated about ceramic, etc., but love the look of stone and have decided on the Labrador Verde/UbaTuba 12x12 tiles. This stone is usually "listed" as being a member of the granite family, however, on your site I found one reference to it not being a granite (I don't recall the reference number). These tiles are highly polished and I'd be using a sand epoxy grout. Is this type of stone a granite? Does it need to be sealed? Or does the grout just need to be sealed? I have gotten conflicting information from the same tile store. Any information you could send my way would be just wonderful. Thank you! Lee, Reply R1: Dear Lee: Is this type of stone a granite? Not by a long shot. It’s Charnockite. Does it need to be sealed? Nope. Or does the grout just need to be sealed? Not if you use epoxy grout, it won’t. I have gotten conflicting information from the same tile store. What a shocker! What else is new?! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8353: I left a container of strawberries on my granite counter. Now I have a red rectangle from the juices that ran! The granite was installed 5 years ago and is still in great condition. Is it possible to remove this staining? Thanks, Ellen, ReplyR1: Dear Ellen: Absolutely! And it’s gonna be easy, too! :-) When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8352: I would like to find out some of the pros and cons to installing slate tiles in a kitchen countertop. It’s difficult to find in depth information. Can you help? Elerne, ReplyR1: Dear Erlene: No sweat! It’s very easy: Cons: Anything bad you that can think of (etching, scratching, defoliating even, with certain slates) will happen, and then some! Prevention: impossible. Repair: just about there. Pros: None whatsoever! I told you it was easy! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8351: Would you please tell what to use to clean marble and granite tombstones? Thank you, Lola, ReplyR1: Dear Lola: It all depends on the conditions the tombstones are. Some may just require a light duty stone cleaner like my excellent MB-5; some other my need to be hit harder, with a product to handle grime and mold, such as my outlandish MB-9. Some others yet are beyond cleaning and need mechanical intervention by a professional stone refinisher. Q 8350: We have recently had granite installed in our kitchen. I have noticed that a corner of the island appears to have broke off and was repaired. On the finished edge I can see what appears to be a spot of putty. On the top surface in the proper light you can see a hairline crack which is rough as though stone dust was sprinkled in the crack to conceal. This hairline crack continues to the underside. Putty material is also visible on underside. I went back to the fabricators and they insist that it is impossible to repair granite and that what I see must be a fisures (I apologize if I have misspelled fisures). The day the granite was installed, I noticed a large smear of something that looked like dried putty on that corner. I disregarded it since I know nothing about the process of fabrication. I figured it was something used during the fabrication process. I believe now that it was there to secure the fragile corner during transportation. The fabricators are sending someone out to look at this corner (insisting that it not a repair). My concern is that if this is a repair that it will eventually fall off. Please respond. Thank you. ReplyR1: Dear Inquirer:
From your description it is a 100% repair and not so good, either! I fissure
doesn’t go through and through and doesn’t have any glue, either! R1: Dear Mario: You don’t really mean to install polished Crema Marfil marble tiles in your kitchen, do you??! Hone-finished would be all right, but then again, you do NOT want “butt-joint” them!! 1/16” grout gap is “your man”! Any less or more than that would be looking for trouble! About the joint interface between the travertine and the marble tiles, there are a few available and all pretty good. Just get the one you like better. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8348: I just bought a home. It has marble around the fire place. I just notice yellow stain at the top of the fire place opening on the marble. I bought a stone cleaner but it didn't work. Can you help me Please. I need to find something to take it off and keep it off. Thank You!!! ReplyR1: Dear Inquirer: “I need to find something to take it off and keep it off.” So do I! :-) You can try treating it as an inorganic stain (although it’s actually not) and keep your fingers crossed! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8347: Hi--we just had our kitchen redone and used "Tan Brown" granite for our countertops. They were sealed with a penetrator. After living with them for a couple of weeks, it looks like there is some rough spots (I can feel them when I run my hand over the top) and some nicks in the granite. Is this normal? Is this more common with some granites than with others? Do we just live with it or is there something we should do? Also, everyone keeps saying how easy granite is...I don't experience that as much. I feel I have to keep wiping and polishing our counters. In the sunlight, they looks streaky, have a "rainbow" effect, and I can see fingerprints. What gives? Thanks! Mary, ReplyR1: Dear Mary: Tan Brown, which is Charnockite from Brazil, may present a few minor spots with some roughness and some nicks. If they’re more than a few, then it may very well be that your slab was not the best candidate to enter into a grading contest! :-( As for the streaks that you’re experiencing you shouldn’t have them. They may be due to the fact that – as you’re reporting – your fabricator applied a penetrating sealer to your stone that never penetrated (Charnockite should not be sealed) and therefore you still have slight film of the stuff. If could also be that you’re not using the right products to clean your countertop with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8346: I have a question regarding standard practices for sealing granite. Does it typically come sealed from a distributor and is re-sealed by the fabricator. Apparently our distributor does not seal it and we as the fabricator are not so it’s going out un-sealed. Is this a common industry practice or what? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks. Jon, ReplyR1: Dear Jon: I
can see that the “ministers” of the “sealing cult”
didn’t get to you yet! :-) R1: Dear Cassandra: Honed and filled is the most practical finish for your application. “Tumbled” means that the pieces of travertine have been treated by being processed for a pre-determined period of time inside a tumbler together with highly abrasive agents to make it achieve the look that you have now. I wouldn’t recommend that type of finish unless your installer provides to fill all the holes. You don’t want open holes in a shower stall! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8344: We've recently had installed a granite countertop. The countertop came in three pieces. However we have one piece that is much darker, smoother and much shinier than the other two. The shade difference is very obvious and we would like to know what to do to have all three pieces the same shade. The colour is desert brown (nutmeg). Please advise, as this is quite disturbing to us and we can't seem to get any advice from our supplier, ReplyR1: Dear Shortie:
I’m afraid you think too much of me. I’m not THAT clever! At
least not to the point of being able of changing two pieces of granite
slabs into something else! Nothing can be done mechanically. However,
if the difference is so dramatic, you don’t have to accept the job
and demand that the different piece be replaced with something closer
to the other two, or vice versa. Some variation is acceptable, but when
it becomes too much, it is not. R1: Dear Cathy: What
can you tell me about either of these?” R1: Dear Bill: Yes, a certain amount of fissures and pits has to be expected with this particular “granite” and most other “granites”. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8341: My parents are finally updating their kitchen and have decided on granite countertops. I couldn't seem to find much information about Amazon Blue or Giallo Sporanza. Are either of these suitable for kitchen countertop? Is one a better choice than the other (less upkeep, better quality, less likely to crack, etc.?) Thanks for any help! Jennifer, ReplyR1: I hope you will
understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears
to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that
a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust
me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should
be the only true deciding factor! I have read as many of the Q & A's as I can find. I would like a dark color, a gree/red or pinkish perhaps, that would go well with cherry cabinets stained to blend with the mahogany furniture in my dining room that will be open to the kitchen. I have seen and liked "Apple Blossom," "Green Rose," and "Forest Green." I am thinking of having the backsplash rise to the bottom of the wall cabinets from the countertop and be made of solid surface in a light color. I am concerned about: these granites' density, suitability for this application, and compatibility with impregnators/sealers. Obviously, I am concerned about sanitation. I am also concerned about cleaners and sealers being non-toxic to cats. Please advise. Thank you Mary, Reply R1: Dear Mary: If
you don’t mind me saying so, you’re starting out with the wrong
foot. :-) We have about 900 square feet of poured concrete around our pool. unfortunately its been painted over many times and has cracks and has lifted (or the pool settled). we would like to cover it with some kind of flagstone or Philadelphia blue stone that we saw on hgtv. what would be the best surface for a pool area(non slippery) and what do you think the costs might be and how difficult a job is it? any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Reply R1: Dear Wanda: I give you two choices: 1. saw-cut unfilled travertine (relatively inexpensive). 2. Flamed or bush-hammered granite (more expensive but as bullet-proof as they come). Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8338: I am designing a retirement "cottage" which will be our permanent residence. I love the look of marble and as I love to cook and bake, the idea of rolling pastry on marble, etc., appeals to me. I have been warned of the softness of marble and that it will stain, but I don't expect it to stay the way it looked new. Marble is used in Italy and all the old houses have it and it looks great, "warts" and all. I would get honed marble, because if it is too shiny it will show more scratches. My second choice is soapstone. Please let me know how this compares with the carrera marble. I am European, and I don't need shiny and new. In fact, I prefer the patina of age. Elfie, ReplyR1: Dear Elfie: The following is the “copy and paste” answer I always give to queries like yours: “ABOUT MARBLE IN A KITCHEN It’s a culture issue. All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it! How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought “lived-in” look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)” Going by your posting you sound like a perfect candidate for hone-finished marble in a kitchen! And … marble is not THAT soft; certainly not as soft as soapstone, that you can actually scratch with your fingernail! To avoid staining all you have to do is apply a good quality stone impregnating sealer like my outlandish MB-4. You will then upkeep your countertop with my fine specialty cleaning products – if you know what I mean!! :-) Now, very important: make sure that you get the right fabricator!! The human factor is much more important than the stone itself! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8337: Problem with newly installed volga blue granite countertop. The edges(double bullnose) are not shiny even after they were buff and sealed.What seems to be the problem and how can we fix it? Sergio, ReplyR1: Dear Sergio:
Now, if your fabricator – who’s supposed to be the professional
in the picture – was not able to polish the edges of your countertop,
are you hoping that one could tell you how to do it yourself over the
internet??! R1: Dear R. Samuel:
Granite is, very definitely, the best material that money can buy for
a kitchen countertop. Now, are you trying to tell me that among the hundreds
of possible choices of mercantile granite there is not a single one that
like??!! :) R1: Dear Marlene: It may not be a necessity, but it’s always a good bet! You may want to consider my outlandish MB-4 to do the job for you! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8334: We are in the process of building a new home, and are contracting out it ourselves. Has been quite an experience, brings to mind the old joke about one representing oneself...... Actually, it's been great because we have at this point been able to achieve exactly what we wanted. My question is, we were looking into limestone for our walk-in-shower, and after having read some of the concerns on the website, I think we should try something else. We love the look of limestone, do you have any suggestions as to the type of stone we should be using. The least maintenance the better. We are building right on oceanside property, so will have sand, etc., tracked in. Also, we were contemplating using limestone on our fireplaces, and once again not sure after reading some of the concerns on your website, so any recommendations you could give us would be most beneficial. Thanks in advance! Cara, ReplyR1: Dear Cara: If you like the look of limestone but want to avoid the possible maintenance nightmare attached to it, you should look into hone-finished marble. Same look, different animal! You may also want to look into honed and filled travertine. That’s indeed a low maintenance stone, providing that it’s installed right and that you care for it with the right cleaning agents. As for the fireplace, considering that’s more ornamental than anything else, limestone could be all right. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8333: My wife and I are stuck and increasingly at odds - we have heard/read such a wide variety of opinions on stone kitchen countertops we can't figure out what works. We both want a natural stone look. Something like Pietra Cardoso, soapstone, slate, (or maybe honed Jet Mist granite?) . I want something low maintenance, where we don't have to worry about spills, etc - and it seems like (at least according to Maurizio) none of these surfaces fits the bill. My wife hates the look of manufactured stone products (quartz, etc). I fear we are headed toward ceramic tile!!! Help!!! David, ReplyR1: Dear David: “My wife hates the look of manufactured stone products (quartz, etc).” I love her already!! :-) Slate is totally out of the picture. Hone back granite is very “iffy” as you can tell by a few threads on the subject in this very forum. Pietra di Cardosa is a good choice, if sealed properly. Soapstone is thumb-up in my book. No sealing necessary and it’s impervious to acidic spills. You will have to deal with the scratching problem, but it’s no big deal. However, having said all that, I must say that I believe you’re starting off with the wrong foot! :-) I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8332: I have gone through most of your site looking for an answer. I have a new giallo veneziano counter installed in my kitchen and I have sealed it twice using TileLab surfacegaurd penetrating sealer. It still absorbs water, but not as much as it used to. I was wondering if I can change the sealant and use one that is recommended on this website for the third or fourth(hopefully not) application. Or would you suggest I stick with the tilelab sealant. How many coats does new giallo veneziano requre in general.. Thanks so much, Bobby, ReplyR1: Dear Bobby:
The particular product you used is famous for … well … not sealing too
good! :-( R1: Dear Roland: Congratulation on your new home and your new Verde Butterfly countertop that will enjoy for many years to come! Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8330: I need help in choosing between granite and silestone for my kichen countertops. What are the pros and cons of both and any suggestions you can make would be appreciated. Thanks. ReplyR1: The quartzite-based
manmade stones (a.k.a. engineered stone) are gaining momentum by presenting
themselves as the “anti-granite”. Many of their claims are false and unsubstantiated.
They are understandable, too: the promoters of engineered stone wouldn’t
stand many chances to sell their very expensive manmade stuff if they
were out telling the truth! Unsanded Tile grout. I am told that to get a polished finish I have to use Akimi or Akemi (sp) so not sure what to do, Some of the holes are size of a quarter. dan, Reply R1: Dear Dan: I
love it when people dispense free advice such as using epoxy filler (Akemi
is only the brand of epoxy filler. There are other brands available) because
it can be polished! The reason why I “love it” is because the use of such
a product is better left to some highly trained professional. To polish
the filler one should apply it into the hole leaving it “mounding”, let
it cure for at least 24 hours, and then grind it flush to the stone surface,
hone and polish. Without meaning any offense, you probably don’t even
know what I am talking about! R1: Dear Lael: This is one of the typical cases that call for a sealing job. As for what sealer to use, my outlandish MB-4 is the one that comes to my mind!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8327: There was an acid based cleaner used on my marble vanity top that left the areas dull where used. We managed to smooth the areas to where only looking from side can you see the damage, but is it possible to polish it some how to where it looks like it originally did? We were told you could grind it down and repolish it? ReplyR1: Dear Karen: You’ve GOTTA tell me what you used to smooth the damaged areas! For what you’re reporting to us, I must congratulate you if you got that far in the restoration project! Now, what’s left to do is to sue my outlandish MB-11 Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8326: We have mold appearing inside/under the clear silicone caulk in a 1 year old tumbled Travertine shower. Please can you suggest a cause + a fix (either with or without replacing the moldy silicone). Thanks, John. ReplyR1: Dear John: I don’t think that anybody can come up with an exact diagnosis of the problem. It … just happens some times! Just check the grout lines to make sure that all the grout is in place and crack-free. There’s no way to clean the mildew stain out of caulk as you would do out of grout. The replacement of the caulk is the only solution. It’s no big deal, anyway. :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8325: Do you sell travertine limestone. With the honed finish, is it non slippery, and is it cooler than most other stones. I am thinking of my kids as I decide what to use. I have considered just doing Kool Deck as well. Yes, big difference in cost…I really like the look of travertine. I have a sample of a cream color piece. It reminds me of tumbled marble a bit. Any advice. I am concerned about the heat factor to the bare feet and the slippery issue. Can you rank a few stones in the non slip/heat area to choose from? Steve, Reply R1: Dear Steve: Saw-cut and unfilled travertine is not slippery even when wet, due to the open holes. (If it’s honed and filled, then it IS slippery when wet.) Another alternative could be flamed-finished or bush-hammered granite. In both cases the heat factor wouldn’t be an issue. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8324: I don't know if this is something you can help me with or not. We have a travertine dining table. The top of the table split in two along the width during our last move. Is this something that a stone refinisher could fix? Thank you, Judy, ReplyR1: Dear Judy: Wrong guy to ask your question to: ask that to a stone restoration contractor in your area. ;-) What I mean is that certain stone restoration contractors are only trained to process the stone surface, while other are more proficient and can take on repair jobs like yours. Your best bet, however, is to bring your table top for repair to a qualified fabrication facility equipped with a bed polisher. They will glue the two pieces together for you, rod the back of the table and then refinish the surface. Most likely, a stone restoration contractor will not rod the back of the slab. It takes special equipment or special skills to do that. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8323: I have a client who wants to use a Brazlian slate material called "Atlantic Green" as a covering applied over vertical concrete walls in South Texas. We need some assurances or at least need to know if this material will hold up in this climate, and if the colors in the material will "run" or not, or any other cautions with regard to this slate material. Sometimes it rains a lot here, and during the summers the temperature becomes rather hot. Roy, ReplyR1: Dear Roy: Take one tile of that material and immerse it in a container filled with water and white vinegar. Leave it there for a couple of days and then take it out, let it dry and see what happen to it. What you’ll see is what you’ll get after a couple of year of exposure to the weather. Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8322: Which stone is harder Marble or Granite ? Thanks Tim, ReplyR1: Dear Tim: Granite. That was quick! Is there anything else that you would like to know? :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 8321: We had black / grey marble laid in our kitchen. The tile layer said to remove a water stain on the floor use CLR. Which I did and it removed the shine from the marble is there anyway to but the shine back into the marble without having it replaced? I do not think I could trust the layer to come back to replace the damaged tiles. Thanks, Bonnie, ReplyR1: Dear Bonnie:
I feel so sorry for you! Who gave you the brilliant idea of installing
polished marble in a kitchen to begin with? The “water stain” that your
setter tried to remove is just the first announcement of what’s coming!
:-( Thanks Frank, Reply R1: Dear Frank:
“How can I fill, buff out or ? scratches in marble tiles 12” I installed
in my shower” |
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