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ADVICE WANTED!   April 30, 2005
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Q 8399: Been reading your responses to others and learning some of the main points in installing this stone in our new kitchen on the floor and backsplash. In talking with our contractor the question came up as to the need to either glue the durarock to the 3/4 subfloor and screw it vs. use a felt moisture barrier and screw the heck out of it without glueing it. In the first instance we would use a moisture barrier on the grown (6 ml.plastic).
As for the backsplash, there will be sheetrock behind, so should we use the thinseth (white) plus some epoxy, sillicone or (?) on the joints as we but it as close as possible? or is there a different process for the walls than it is for the floor.?
I would like to know a bit more about the Travertine we bought... It is 18x18 tiles with straight edges a Beige Medium Natural Travertine from Turkey which we bought at the Home Depot at a price we could afford.) I like the look of it and wonder if I should try to see on a test tile what the use of a color enhanser would do to it...also, as I researched with local companies, they mentioned there were two types of impregnators, one which preserves the color in the stone and the other one which darkenes it...would one use the color enhancer first and then the impregnator or are these both one and the same... Thank you for your expert advise....Bea, in Georgia. Reply

R1: Dear Bea: The first part of your query is more complicated than usual. Please, understand that I’m here to help, but there’s only so much free time that I can allot to answer all the queries I receive. For complicated questions like yours I must ask you to use my convenient “1-on-1” consultation service that’s available in Educational Literature section of the website I hope you can appreciate that. As for the color enhancer vs. impregnator issue, both products are penetrating sealers; therefore you will not need the application of an impregnator after applying the color enhancer. Now, to find out how your travertine will look like if color enhanced, you don’t need to buy a bottle of the product: just rub one tile with baby oil and remove every bit of residue from the surface of the stone. The baby iol will evaporate and disappear in a matter of a few hours, while the color enhancer will be permanent. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8398: We are considering Sucuri Brown (not the veined Juparna Sucuri) for our countertops in our kitchen. I have never even heard of this color before today. I'm wondering how hard of a granite it is and if it will repel stains. Also, I am looking for pictures from someone who had it installed in their kitchen. Please help. Kami, Reply

R1: Dear Kami: “I have never even heard of this color before today.” Neither did I! :-)
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8397: I thought of using slate on my entry way and to hold a fireplace but what eles can I use? Reply

R1: Dear Tonya: You could use slate for your fireplace (not on the hearth, though), but you don’t want it on your floor!If you like the look of slate, get some look-alike porcelain tiles instead. They’re just about bullet-proof! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8396: Our lovely brand-new countertops made of Wild West Green are staining at an alarming rate...but only near the food-prep/eating areas. I have tried (and failed) to stain the original (unsealed) sample I was given. I know that it is the same stone because I saw them remove it from my slab. Are my stains in the sealer and not the in the stone itself? How shall I address this problem? I have not seen any discussion of Wild West on your website, Reply

R1: Dear Collen: We never discussed Wild West Green because nobody ever inquired about it so far. :-)
Back to your problem, most consumers are unable to tell the difference between a stain and a “stain”. Since they’re both discolorations, they called them all stains. A stain is always darker than the material it discolored, while a “stain” is always lighter. There are no exceptions to this rule. Now, before we go any further trying to find the solution to your problem, why don’t you tell us how your discolorations look like? Then we’ll take it from there. Fair enough?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8395: Hi – thank you for all your info on the website. Do you know anything about a granite called VanGogh? I am in the Midwest and fabricators here said it must go by another name – they have never heard of it. I saw it elsewhere on the Internet, but here is a link to the slab I fell in love with! Thanks for any assistance. Annie, Reply

R1: Dear Annie: Do yourself a favor: log on Google and make a quick search on Grigio Sardo granite or Rosa Porrino granite. These two stones [b]are[/b] granite. Now tell me if your Van Gogh thing has any resemblance whatsoever with granite. (Please, don’t ask me what it is because I have no idea, other than being positive about the fact that it ain’t no granite by a huge shot!)

You’d better run some serious test before you decide on that stone!

I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!

In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!”
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8394: I have white cabinets and am looking for new countertops. Wish I could visualize New Venetian gold or Maroon cahiba granite on the counters. Have you ever seen either on white cabinets with medium oak floor. Also, I have a large island at 9 feet long. Is either one of these granites better than the other? I am pretty neat and clean up during and after cooking however, I do have three small children. Do they need sealing? Any info. you could give me on these granites would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Kathy, Reply

R1: Dear Kathy: Being that I’m 25% colorblind and all, I will stay out of the decorating business.
As for the rest, talking as a mechanic, let me give you a list of the granites that I like: A good fabricator! End of the list!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8393: I am building a house and chose Golden Oak granite countertops from a reputable business. When I went to see my new countertops, they were ugly. They full bull nose was a completely different color than the countertops. It was like they had cut them and not polished them. They were not as shiny and smooth and certainly a lot lighter shade than the top. It was like there was a light colored band around them. The business said that this had only happened once before and they really didn't know why. They tried to color enhance it, to no avail. Now, they said that they learned that if you polish the stone, it will not absorb any products. Today, they have some new product coming in from Brazil to fix the problem. They had forgotten to do my island the first go round and the edges on it are more acceptable in color, but they are not as smooth and shiny as the top. What is the deal? I did go choose another granite just in case they can't fix it, but I don't like it as much as the Golden Oak and they said I have to choose from their yard. I guess they are afraid it would happen to another piece of the Golden Oak. They want to make it right, for their reputation and to get the rest of their money. Can you please help me? WE are to be moving in May 7. By the way, the lemon test passed on my sample and I plan to take care of the countertops via your directions and products, so I may miss some of the popular problems I have read on this web site. Sincerely, Marylyn, Reply

R1: Dear Marylyn: If you run a quick search on Google you will find out that there’s more than one Golden Oak. They are all stones of dubious geological classification. None of them is granite and they are most likely orthogneiss. These kinds of stones are the perfect candidates for some heavy resining by the factory to try to minimize their major drawbacks, which are high absorbency and extensive grittiness, not to mention the “upgrading” of low-grade slabs. The resining always enhances the color of the surface of the slab, but certain resins make it real darker. When a fabricator polishes the edges – which are not resined, of course – no matter how well the polishing is done, the color will always be lighter compared to surface of the stone. A color enhancer will only work when the difference is not much. Apparently it is not your case.

It’s a good thing that you’re in the hands of a reputable fabricator! There is not much else that I can tell you from here. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8392: I have (well I hope I have!) a blue granite sink and drainer, the drainer is AOK the sink however is all stained and I do not know how to clean it! HELP please Regards, Hazel, Reply

R1: Dear Hazel: From your description I can’t figure out what the real problem is, but I assure that your “stains” are not stains and can not be cleaned. Only a reputable stone restoration contractor could take care of that, providing that your sink is natural stone at all. In fact, what I can also promise you is that what you have is granite just as much as I am from another planet! :-( Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8391: We're building a new home and have selected New Venetian Gold granite for the kitchen counter tops. A question came up about how the hole for the sink should be cut. Both sides of the sink (Kohler cast iron) and the back are flush with the sides of the granite, but the front edge of the sink is about 3/4 inch in from the edge of the granite (looks like the hole was cut too large from front to back. Should all edges be flush with the stone, or is it preferable to have the sink "inset" from the edge of the stone? Thanks, Irv, Reply

R1: Dear Irv: It sounds to me like they cut the hole a bit too large, but what can I tell you, there’s not much that can be done at this point, is there? There are no specific industry standards on how the sink should fit the hole, as you can understand; so, I reckon that all is left is to try to work things out with your fabricator. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8390: I'd like to know your suggestion for the best granite to use for kitchen and bath counters. I've recently found your Q & A list online and noticed you've extended your regrets to many people when they mentioned what type of granite they have. I'd like your advise before I select one. If the question is entirely too broad, what information do you need to narrow it down?
Also, what is your thought on soapstone vs. granite, both in durability and ease of care and in its effect on the home's resale value, since granite is the more commonly found stone in use right now? Thank you, Stormy, Reply

R1: Dear Stormy: Comparing granite to soapstone would be like comparing an orange with an apple. They are both easy to maintain but are totally different from one another. As for the resale value of the house, personally I believe that granite is more sellable than soapstone, but it's just me.
Now, let's talk about the selection of the "right" granite. The list of my favorite granites is the following: a good fabricator! End of the list. I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I'm about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of "granite" and/or its physical characteristics. It's human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a
low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8389: I am in the process of building a new house. I am researching to find out the best countertops. You seem to be knowlegable in the are. What do you suggest? Formica, granite, marble? And the reasons why?...Thank you so much... Reply

R1: Dear Donna: Why, thank you for your nice words!
As for comparing Formica with granite … well … I mean, what are you looking for your countertop? Price or beauty?
If you can’t afford the cost of granite, then plastic laminate is “your man”, but if you can afford natural stone, then the choice falls between marble and granite. Marble is quite a peculiar material. Better said, it requires “peculiar” customers. (See other threads on this specific subject on this very forum.)
At this point, if we narrow the choice down to granite, the list of my favorite granites is the following: a good fabricator! End of the list.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8388: I've read through your website and it's fantastic, but a bit overwhelming - I was hoping you could be so kind as to answer my question directly.First of all this is a message to anyone besides Maurizio (I don't want to be told to throw away my beautiful brand new counter tops!!!) Not to mention how horribly wasteful that would be to the environment.

We have honed black slate (from Pennsylvania) countertops - but we DID NOT seal them and now they have some marks (mostly water stains, maybe some oil) and some scratches. I feel like I use mineral oil all the time!!! It looks lovely but does not last. As soon as I wipe down the countertops the oil goes away and they scratches and stains reappear. I want to: Remove the stains and hopefully the scratches and then SEAL them so that I can prevent new scratches.

PLEASE HELP - how can I remove the stains and scratches, should I sand?
Should I use a polish? I would prefer home remedies that are nontoxic if possible! Thank you so much! Lilo, Reply

R1: Dear Lilo: What can I tell you, you can’t get away without me. Not in this place you don’t! :-) But don’t worry, I won’t tell you to throw away your beautiful countertop.Let’s see what you’re after:

I want to: Remove the stains and hopefully the scratches and then SEAL them so that I can prevent new scratches.”

What you want is what everybody and his mother wants, too. Too bad it just doesn’t exist, because if it did I wouldn’t be bashing at slate! :)

You can’t remove the stains for the simple reasons that they’re not stains, but acid etches, which means that they are surface damages, just as the scratches. There is nothing available in the entire galaxy that can prevent those “stains”. You can’t remove the scratches, either, because you don’t have the equipment, you don’t have the material and, above all, you don’t have the know-how and, consequently you would never be able to reproduce the factory finish. You would need a professional to do that. But what’s the point? After the restoration contractor left it will take only a couple of days before you have new scratches. That is what slate is all about! :-(

Your only option is to make friends with a good-quality stone color enhancer (such as my amazing MB-6), which will give you on a permanent basis the look that you get when you treat your countertop with mineral oil. Of course, every time you etch or scratch your slate you will have to keep applying the product. You will also use specialty cleaning products (such as MB-5 or MB-17) to care for your stone and the color enhancer.

There, don’t tell me that I told you to throw away your countertop! :-)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8387: It's too late, but I now gather Juparana Columbo (just installed) is not really granite (and/or is very porous). Our fabricator, after I complained about oil stains on the very first day), suggests sealing (or impregnating?) with olive oil. Says that's how he treated is own very porous limestone kitchen counters - doesn't get rancid, etc. Should I let him go ahead and do it? Toby, Reply

R1: Dear Toby: Two virgin olive oil (or should it be extra virgin? :?) fans in two days! Mmm … I’m wondering if it’s the beginning of a trend?... I wouldn’t be at all surprised though: come up with something idiotic in the stone industry and you’re going to find a flock of followers!! :-)

FYI, olive oil may take longer than other vegetable oils but WILL rancid.

If you read the previous thread that I mentioned and that’s linked above, I won’t need to make any further comment, other than enhancing the fact that end-users of natural stone products need marblecleaning.net and what it stands more than ever!!

Yeah, you’re right, it’s tool late to fire the butt of your “Michelangelo”, but do NOT let him do the olive oil treatment!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8386: I have installed a granite that has 2 names, as far as I can tell. One is English Brown and the other is Sapphire Brown. If these names are familiar to you, could you please tell me if they should be sealed? Thank you very much. Mary, Reply

R1: Dear Mary: Same stone, two names! :-)
It usually doesn’t need to be sealed, but usually doesn’t mean all the time, does it?! You’re gonna have to find out by yourself to make sure. Spill some water in a couple of spots of your countertop, let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother.

Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8385: HI, we are about to lay puglia stone (lapidea) absorbant light colored tile to concrete skreed. I have some doubts about the contractors expertise. First his tilers were going to place a 5 mm space between the tiles which are a 4 module pattern. The tiles are sized in a way that they fit together ONLY without any spacer. This stone is a type of marble. Is it necessary for marble tiles to have grout? We also changed the adhesive from gray to white due to the risk of absorption and spotting through the tile. Anything else I should be aware of here. We found a new tiler who is going to do the job, but I don't want to risk anything unneccessary. thanks, Reply

R1: Dear Kathi: I am from the Northern part of Italy, but when I was back in my country I spent most of my professional life in the Puglia region. I thought I knew all the marbles quarried in that region, yet I never heard of that particular stone! Maybe the opened the quarry after I moved to the USA back in 1981. At any rate, if it’s a marble you need to have grout, end of the debate. 2 mm. is “your man”. Of course, if the floor is going to be installed with the “grind-in-place” method (like it should, especially considering that you are posting this query from Italy), then it would be a different story.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8384: Unfortunately, my coffee maker spilled over without me noticing it. There is a stain. I have tried cleaning with mild soap and water. Some of the stain has gone but there is still approximately 30-40% of the stain remaining. How can I remove the rest of the coffee stain? Thanks, Fred, Reply

R1: Dear Fred: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8383: We had our Uba Tuba counter tops installed in our kitchen 6 days ago. The installer said to wait 5-7 days and then seal them with 511 impregnator sealer. After searching your website for the answer to our question about whether to seal this kind of granite or not, I am getting the impression that maybe this is not the best thing to do. We don't want to wait any longer to seal the counter tops if that is the proper way to care for this type of granite but we also don't want to make the mistake of sealing something that we should not. Could you please tell us what we should be doing to take the best care of our Uba Tuba including sealing and cleaning? Thank you for your help. Sincerely, Joyce Apr, Reply

R1: Dear Joice: There are a few quarries of Ubatuba and the stone they produce is not the same, although with most characteristics in common. Most Ubatuba do not need to be sealed, but a few just might.
How to find out? Quite simple: spill some water in a couple of spots of your stones, let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother. Simple enough for ya?!

Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8382: We just had granite installed in our home. I stumbled across your web site. I want to know purous our selections are. Creme chianti, Silver Sea Green and Monte Carlo, Reply

R1: Dear Joanne & Austin: (ladies first! :)) Your fabricator must be a master at playing the “name game”. I never heard of Crème Chianti or Monte Carlo granites. Silver Sea Green may or may not need to be sealed.
How to find out? Quite simple: spill some water in a couple of spots of your stones, let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother. Simple enough for ya?!
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8381: I have a one year old granite kitchen that has oil stains from frying splatter. I have read your fix for this, a poltice of paper towels and Acetone which I will try. The sales people where I bought the installation told us to use a poltice then seal the stone with a good grade of virgin olive oil. Have you an opinion on this sealing? It appears I have a sealed granite or very dense stone. I put the drop
of water on the surface and let set for hours before drying. On my contract I have these words or letters discribing the stone
CTVMACSHIVAKASH, SMIVAKASHI 3CM, 125.00x80x1.25, The color Rusty red streaks and dots with grey/blue dots in a light cream. The rusty red colors being prodominate Could you tell me anything about the stone from this? What would you recommend for sealing if anything after removing the oil stains. Thank You...... Really enjoyed your site. Ron Adamson Sebastian Fl, Reply

R1: Dear Ron: “The sales people where I bought the installation told us to use a poultice then seal the stone with a good grade of virgin olive oil.”
You’ve GOT to be kidding me!! If not, the question that comes to my mind is: is there a limit to human stupidity?! :-)
You’re supposed to remove the oil stain and then “seal” the countertop with oil??!! Why bother poulticing the oil stain out to begin with?!!... Oh, yes, I almost forgot: probably the stain that you have was not made by a “good grade of virgin olive oil”! Hence the poulticing of the bad oil, hence the subsequent staining (oops, I meant “sealing”) with the good oil! Did the sales person suggest any particular brand of extra virgin olive oil? What’s better, the Italian or the Spanish one?!! :-) :-) :-)
Also, did they mention anything about what you’re supposed to do when the “good grade virgin olive oil” will begin to rancid inside your stone??!!! :-(
Shivakashi is a “sponge”, unless it was resined by the factory; and if your fabricator sealed it, they obviously didn’t do a good job if you have an oil stain. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8380: The marble trim around my shower door has absorbed iron stains from using well water. What can I use to clean this marble? My husband said I can use Iron Out. Is this true? Thank you Virginia, Reply

R1: Dear Virginia: Iron Out in a poultice could only work is the rust stain was actually produced by well-water rich in iron mineral. If your marble is White Carrara or White Thassos (which contain a percentage of iron mineral) the rust could be the consequence of migration of moisture through the core of the stone if you have grout or caulk missing near or around the marble saddle. In such case, nothing could remove that stain, because the stone itself would be rusted through and through. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8379: I was to have my granite installed on a 6' by 3' area or the standard
cabinet width, with a cut out for a drop in sink 25 x 22 all was well until the installers came in with four pieces instead of one. I was told one piece would work great for this area and I was looking forward to that. The installer told me that the piece broke, and that they could make it look fine with a seam. I really did not want a seam. The installer said that they do one pieces all of the time without problems around the sink, but the owner of the granite place is trying to convience me that every piece will break, and that 4 pieces is standard, what are your thoughts, It was veneziano or the like. Thanks, Reply

R1: Dear Inquirer: To be quite honest I am a bit confused from your explanation. Bear with me, please. My understanding is that you expected your countertop all in one piece and instead it was delivered in four pieces. Then you go on: “The installer told me that the piece broke, and that they could make it look fine with a seam.” The arithmetic just doesn’t add up: four pieces would require three seams, not one.
Let’s continue:
The installer said that they do one pieces all of the time without problems around the sink, but the owner of the granite place is trying to convince me that every piece will break, and that 4 pieces is standard, what are your thoughts?
At this point I don’t have any thoughts unless you can make me understand the situation. It appears to me that the installer and the fabricator are two different contractors and that they are in disagreement about something. One (the installer) maintains that they do one piece around the sink (meaning?) all the time with no problem, but the fabricator maintains instead that every piece will break … If it is one piece, why “every” piece will break? How many pieces are they? One or more than one? And then you mention four pieces again. If one piece broke and are planning to make one seam, where are the other two pieces coming from? And where is that one seam?

I would really like to help you, but I just don’t get the picture. Could you please clarify for me? Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8378: I'm so glad I found your web site tonight! We were planning to install a quality Italian porcelain tile floor in our kitchen but then I saw a home with a gorgeous ferrous slate kitchen floor. The stone company said ferrous slate is very durable and will last forever. They let me bring home a couple of slate tiles & the bottom edge of one chipped. The slate is beautiful but after seeing this chip & after reading your comments at this website, I'm scared of the slate. Is porcelain (with a "V" PEI rating) a much better choice for this high traffic area? We don't want to replace this flooring again in 10 years. Thank you, Debbie, Reply

R1: Dear Debbie: This a natural stone place and we are all natural stone people, but mark my words: you do NOT want any slate, ferrous or otherwise on your kitchen floor – or any other floor for that matter!
If you like the look of slate, consider slate look-alike porcelain tiles instead. Only a trained eye can tell the difference and they are as bullet-proof as they come! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8377: Hi, Can you tell me what countertop material most resembles Carrera marble? I was told it was not durable. Thank you. Reply

R1: Dear Inquirer: You may be able to find some “cultured marble” (whatever that means! It’s manmade plastic material) that may resemble White Carrara marble, but it’s much more delicate and just about impossible to repair.

Within the natural stone realm, there’s nothing that come even close to the look of White Carrara, or any other marble, for that matter. Besides, even a different marble would have the same maintenance issues of White Carrara.

Talking about which, my mother back in Italy has a White Carrara table top since 1949 and she still uses it every day. Tony’s Pizza around the corner from my house has a White Carrara top where they roll their dough every single day for only the gods know how many years! So, about not being a durable material I beg to differ with whoever told you otherwise! Let’s just say that, it may present maintenance issues if one expects from it more that it can deliver.

About the use of marble in a kitchen I consider it a culture issue.

All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it!

How’s that?

For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought “lived-in” look.

While the looks of an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8376: I have had my coutertop for 2 years now. It is granite black Labadorita. It was sealed before it was installed and I am seeing rings from where glasses were sitting and leaving condensation. I am going crazy everytime someone leaves a glass on my couter. I have tried denatured alcohol, but never did the poltice on it. It doesn't seem to work. I will try to use the poultice and keep it 24 hours, but do you have any other advice. I clean my counter tops with soap and water or windex that is ammonia free. Help, Lory, Reply

R1: Dear Lory: Regardless of the fact that you’re not using proper cleaning agents for your stone, the “mysterious” “ghost rings” that you have are not stains by a long shot; therefore you will never be able to get rid of them by poulticing. It would be like trying to poultice a scratch out! I know exactly what your problem is and I have the final solution for you. I also know that your fabricator is the sole cause of your problem. Considering the kind of money they made out of you, I think it’s only fair that you give them a chance to rectify the situation. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8375: Please advise what is the best tile or stone that I could use for a kitchen floor. I am looking for a stone look, with very low maintenance. Is ceramic still my best choice?? I also do not want to spend a fortune on a floor that will be tracked on with kids, teens and their friends all about. I love beautiful yet practical, please advise. By the way I have maple cabinets in toasted almond color and with a waterfall green coto granite countertop. Very nice contrast, anyway pls advise. Loida, Reply

R1: Dear Loida: I’m a stone man and my heart bleeds while telling you that your best bet is to consider stone look-alike porcelain tiles. I can’t think of any natural stone – this side of flamed granite – that could withstand the kind of traffic you’re describing to us. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8374: Hi I have a problem that i hope you can help me with.I had a marble front put on my fireplace.The person that did it took off to mexico so i am left with this problem. The marble is black with white veins.The recess part of the fireplace is nice and shiny like most marbles ,the out side of the fireplace which is about 10 slabs of the marble are very smooth and very clean but has no shine to it .He did the sanding with the different grades of sandpaper to smooth the edges that he wanted to round off and went over the slabs that are now not shiny .I tried using high gloss lacquer on it but when i sprayed it on it just disappered. Do you know how i can get all the marble to shine .It does not look to good this way . I guess i was to trustworthy with my mexican worker. thank you for any help you can give me . Claire, Reply

R1: Dear Claire: High gloss lacquer, huh!... :-)
Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8373: We added space to our home and expanded our kitchen two years ago, and put in a beautiful and spacious stone floor that we now regret (approx. 700 sq. ft.). We went with Mexican crosscut travertine, in 16 inch squares. It was awesome in appearance, until the cracking began. Actually the cracks, for the most part, are small but are getting more noticeable as time goes on. The installation is on a solid wood framed floor, with 5/8" concrete board, set in thin set and nailed, and the tile set in thin set over that. An isolation barrier was not used. The floor joists are 16" on center and two independent structural engineers have reported that the floor system is strong and sufficient for the loads. The cracks are showing along the subfloor joints, on a 4 8 foot pattern. Note the concrete board joints are NOT showing... they are sized 3 x 5 as I recall. Two quality tile companies, two general contractors, and two structural engineers have all been able to offer an explanation as to WHY the floor would crack over virtually every plywood subfloor joint?

Some have said that we should have used an isolation barrier, but can't explain why that helps. I will add that this floor traverses over the new addition and the older part of the home (15 years old). The original structure has obviously completed any shrinking or adjusting. Any thoughts and suggestions that you have would be very welcome. We have ordered new stone and the installer is planning to cut out and remove the cracked pieces (about 80 of them!). I am fearful that they will just crack again. Can you explain this phenomenon? Do you have any suggestions for me? 2) BTW, I would never use travertine in the kitchen again. We have had problems with it chipping with pieces popping out leaving small and medium sized craters and with spills that have etched the floor -- lemon juice and my dog's vomit for two examples. The etching is visually noticeable in certain lighting conditions and by touch. These pieces will be replaced, but for future spills, what do your recommend as the appropriate restoration method?

3) Also, our counter tops are Impala Black (actually Impala Blue, just like Impala Black, but with a few iridescent blue flakes here and there). We love the look and all is going well with it. Hopefully this decision was right. What can you tell me about this stone? It was sealed by the installers, but is due for a second application. Do you recommend sealing it? What product, if so? Thanks for your services... what a great resource! Jim, Reply

R1: Dear Jim: I will answer your last question for free: “It was sealed by the installers, but is due for a second application. Do you recommend sealing it? No, I do NOT! Consider yourself lucky that you didn’t have any problem because of the sealer that your fabricator applied to your countertop! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8372: I recently, had travertine floors installed. There a couple of tiles that have a permenant swirl in them. The installer is telling me it is from the honing of the stone. What can I do? Thanks Cindy, Reply

R1: Dear Cindy: There are two options to solve your problem: You have those two tiles replaced. You have a professional stone refinisher in your area come and hone those two tiles. Better yet, have them hone the whole floor for you by using honing powder. You will not believe your own eyes when the job will be finished! IMO honed factory finish is not fit for sale.
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8371: Is there any way i can make my floors shines like in the shopping center like at the mall the floors are so high gloss. Reply

R1: Dear Karen: Of course there is! There are actually two ways to go about it: If you want to do it yourself you can join my next three-day class on stone refinishing that will be held in Folcroft, PA July 20-27. Besides the cost of the class itself ($800.00) you will have to consider traveling, food and lodging. You will also to factor in approximately $5,000 for equipment and materials that you will need to do the job. You can hire a professional stone refinisher in your area that will do the job for you. Should choose the second option, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8370: Could you tell me if there is a simple do it yourself way to repair a chip along the front edge of a granite countertop or do I need to have a professional correct it. It is not noticeable to the eye but is very rough when you run your finger across it. It is about 1/2" long. Thank you for the information, Reply

R1: Dear Martha: The answer to the first question is, no. Which lead to the automatic answer to the second question, that is, yes, you do! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8369: I am a fabricator in the greater Pittsburgh area. I have been reading your reply for three years now. Fabulous stuff! My father started the business in 1975, he came here from Pedichiano,AQ,Italy. I am 35, have a B.S. in electrical engineering and worked as a software engineer. So I like to do alot of research.. I spent 9 months researching which new saw to buy to update my fathers 1950 stonesaw(you know with the rails), finally I bought a park ind sierra and I love it.
I use flat bar rodding technique, I have learned through trial and error to repair cracks on back splashes and sinks fairly well. for example, one time a back splash (Giallo Vicenza) broke and I roded it and the next day took a dremel tool with a diamond tip and traced the crack. Then used a sledge to polverize the same color stone and mixed it in the epoxy with some tint color matching. and repolished the face. Turned out beautiful... I asked the man at the kitchen and bath store(was for a display) to find the flaw and he couldn't until I pointed it out for him.finally, my point in emailing you... what do you think about me using that same techique on seams. I have tried and tried to perfect my work... seams are one of the things that is most important to clients. grazie, Reply

R1: Dear Reno: The seaming is one of those areas in the fabrication process where you separate the men from the boys. However, the technique you described to repair a crack – which is very good indeed – would not work well with granite seams. If nothing else it would involve grinding and re-polishing the surface of the slab at the seams to match the factory finish all the time; that’s a chancy proposition right there!! Go with epoxy. There are a few techniques to make the seams barely visible. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8368: I am trying to determine for a client if polished or honed surface would be the best surface for their lifestyle. The pros and cons of one verses the other? Thank you for your response. Reply

R1: Dear Charles: Besides black, most granites are very good in both versions, providing that when honed they’re treated with a good-quality stone color enhancer (like my outlandish MB-6) instead of an impregnating sealer. To summarize the difference about routine cleaning, it’s like comparing a polished stainless steel surface with a satin-finish one. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8367: I have purchased Verde Peacock for my kitchen countertops and if I
am reading Maurizio correctly he is saying in several posts that it does not need to be sealed. Am I correct?
Which of his products will best serve this stone? I also purchased Verde Fuoco for my Master Bathroom counter, same questions apply, seal or not, which products best serve this stone. Thank you so much.
I should like to add I have sauturnia going on my floors and prefer honed floors. It will be in the foyer, dining room, kitchen, and MB bath. Reply

R1: Dear Becky: Verde Peacock does not need to be sealed. About the Verde Fuoco I’m not very familiar with it. Spill some water in a couple of spots of your countertop, let it dwell for 10 minutes or so, wipe it dry and observe if the areas under which the water has been sitting have become (temporarily) any darker than the rest. If so, then you will apply a good-quality impregnating sealer. If not, don’t bother.
For both materials the routine maintenance will involve the use of MB=5 (or MB-17) teamed up with MB-13.
About your cross-cut travertine floors, I would apply a good-quality impregnating sealer like my outlandish MB-4 only in the kitchen. Use MB-1 for routine maintenance. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8366: I recently purchased a new house with black (with gold specs) quartz countertop in the kitchen. I was told to use windex to clean. No matter what I use it looks dull. Is there a way to get a higher gloss, shiny result? I asked at Home Depot if they knew of anything and they said you couldn't put a sealant on quartz. B.mccool, Reply

R1: Dear Becky: Let me get this straight: You seem to be unable to get your engineered stone countertop clean with a glass cleaner and, consequently you went to the experts at the Big Box store and when you asked them what to use to clean your countertop they told you that engineered stone shouldn’t be sealed … Is that right?
If so, what on earth does a sealer for stone got to do with cleaning? And, second, what on earth a sealer for stone got to do the polish of the surface? Your best bet is go back to the fabricator who installed your countertop and find out with them what your problem could be. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8365: Have you heard of a Diamond sealer for granite? I don’t believe it is real, but I am being told that I need it. What is a good sealer for White Romano? Why should the same sealer be again, if it was used once—no chance to change? Reply

R1: Dear Wilford: Of course I did. And I’m very jealous of it, too! My chemist tried to find out how they did it, but it just gave up! It comes liquid inside a bottle, but if you perform the proper (secret) rites before and after the application, it will turn into hard diamond again, and everybody lived happily ever after!! And, of course, you do need it!! I’ve heard of a few people being turned into zombies without it. In the best case scenario you will get terrible nightmares and your family tree will get coursed for three generations down the line!! :-)
“What is a good sealer for White Romano?” You mean this side of the liquid diamond?... Well, my MB-4 is a pretty darn good performer, but it literally pales in comparison with that magic stuff. It must be the rites thing!! :-)
The rule of using the same sealer over again was very important during the era of the solvent-carried impregnating sealers. Now that most sealers are water-carried the problem of possible non-compatibility between two different formulations is not a factor any longer, but still, it could happen that the second sealer won’t perform at its best because of the presence of the first one.
Regardless of the sealer, the issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8364: We have some scratches on slate tiles, is there a product that can buff the scratches out? Thanks, Liz, Reply

R1: Dear Liz: Not that I know of. That is one of the major problems with slate. Due its natural cleft finish, scratches and etchings can’t be repaired, because the only way to do that is by slightly grinding the surface of the stone, which would imply a perfectly flat surface. The only way to make the scratches “disappear” is with the application of a good-quality stone color enhancer. That could change the depth of color of the whole tile, however. To find out what I mean, try to rub some baby oil over the scratch. What you’ll see (which will last no more than a few hours, a day top) is what you will be getting by applying a good-quality stone color enhancer like my mythic MB-6! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8363: I have an oily stain on my new countertops and need to remove it using the poultice method you have described. Are there any granites that can be harmed by the acetone, or are all of them same to have it used on. The type of granite I have is St. Cecilia and it is very light, and I suspect it is poorly sealed. After I remove the stain (if I can) I will seal it. Thanks in advance. Ann, Reply

R1: Dear Ann: Not only are there no granite that could be harmed by acetone, but there’s not a single stone that could be harmed by it, or any other mineral solvent for that matter. Your suspicion about the possibility that your stone was not sealed properly sounds pretty reasonable to me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8362: I was wondering if you know a way to remove stains on brick from un-polished granite run-off. I have porus white brick, with granite steps and the there are dark discolorations from the water run-off. I've tried bleach, simple green and hydrochloric acid with no positive results. It looks like scale is forming. thanks, Vincent, Reply

R1: Dear Vincent: I’m no brick expert, but I know enough about granite to promise you that – no matter which granite or “granite” it is – it will never stain anything!! I really don’t know what your problem might be without seeing your situation, but it sounds to me like you have a migration of moisture problem, with consequent efflorescence. Your best bet is to get hold of a reputable contractor and consult with them on location about finding a solution to your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8361: I just recently layed tile in a 1200sq ft area i was wondering how do i charge for the labor i have done? Reply

R1: Dear Eva: Let me try to understand this: You’re not a professional tile installation contractor (or else you wouldn’t be asking such a “weird” question), yet you installed 1200 sq ft of tiles, right? But you started the job without any agreement with the customer on what you would charge them, right? And now you’re asking advice on how much you should charge for the work that you’ve already performed, right?! Well, under the circumstances I have only one answer for you: charge as much as possible!!! I mean, gimme a break, will ya?!! :-) :-) :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8360: We recently purchased grey carrera marble for our bathroom floor. I'm trying to recreate the bungalow era in our 1928 home. do you suggest we seal the marble after installation? thank you for your help. Karen, Reply

R1: Dear Karen: If you really think that in the bungalow era they were sealing their marble floors, go ahead and seal it! :-)
Joking aside, polished marble does not need to be sealed. Besides, are you gonna spill coffee and cooking oil (and let them sit on the floor for a couple of hours) on your bathroom floor?! :?
Concern yourself with more important issues. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert

Q 8359: We have chosen an Italian limestone benchtop and flooring for our kitchen area. We are now being told by the importer that this material is easily scratched and too porous to be used as a benchtop. Others say that with a good sealant it should be fine. My husband is the architect, and unfortunately at times, cares more about how things will 'look'! I use my kitchen a lot and also entertain extensively, and therefore want my kitchen to be hardy. Apparently Caeserstone is a good alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Gina, Reply

R1: Dear Gina: Another inquirer from the Land Down Under!
Saying limestone you’re saying absolutely nothing. There are certain limestones (very few indeed) that could be almost suitable in a kitchen (it all depends how you feel about the “changes” it will go through over time), while certain other will literally melt under the action of running warm water. Anywhere in between there are hundreds different limestones that nobody know anything about All in all it is indeed a chancy proposition with the odds certainly not in your favor.
Now let’s come to the Engineered Stone (Ceasarstone and such).
Why that??
If you want something real tough, why do you have to go for a manmade material and give up the unmatchable beauty of natural stone, when you have hundreds of mercantile granites available?

Get yourself a good fabricator and go with granite! If you don’t like it shiny, you can always have it hone-finished (light colors are not a problem like black). But…

I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!

In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8358: We had polished ubba tuba installed in our kitchen about 4 years ago. Last week I notice a small chip in once of the edges (maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 inch). I believe it's a double pencil with a 1/4" radius. Can anything be done to repair and/or camoflague. I would sincerely appreciate any advice. Thanks! Deidre, Reply

R1: Dear Deidre: Of course something can be done. Not by you, however! :-(
No filler will ever stick to such a shallow chip; therefore the best way to go is to have that area of the edge re-shaped with a proper routing tool. Your best bet is to have the original fabricator do the repair, for they have the exact bit they used to originally shape the edge, but as a second option, a good stone restoration contractor should be able to pull it off to a satisfactory result. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8357: We recently purchased a late 1950's contemporary home with terazzo flooring throughout. One room had wall-to-wall carpeting and the carpet strips used created big chunks in the terrazzo. We want to fill the large chunks but can't seem to find a filler in our local stores. Can you tell me the best approach to repair the entire edges of the room? I realize it will be hard to match the former with a new filler and that is fine. It may look interesting as a border around the room but at least it will be filled. Thanks for your help. Lynn, Reply

R1: Dear Lynn: Unfortunately, this is not, by and far a DIY project. Regardless of the filler, once it’s applied it will have to be ground flush with the rest of the floor and brought up to the same finish. Your best bet is to consult with a bona fide stone restoration contractor. Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8356: My son left some corn chips on our gray stone hearth. Needless to say the chips left grease marks. I'm not sure of the type of stone or even if it's natural or man-made. Any suggestions for getting rid of the grease stains? I'm afraid of making things worse. Thanks! Reply

R1: Dear Bart: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8355: I have just been reading a forum with your comments in it about slate flooring – and wonder if you can tell me if there is ANYTHING that can be done to make cheap brown/grey slate flooring look better, or is the only way to fork out lots of money and get it covered, or refer me to a site with the info I need. I hope there is a cheaper alternative as its a huge area and I don’t want to take out a 2nd mortgate. Thanks Lesley Fry, Brisbane, Australia, Reply

R1: Dear Lesley: Quite a few inquiries from the land Down Under, lately! :-) I have a couple of simple questions for you: Do you currently have a hard-shell polyurethane-like sealer onto the slate? If the answer is yes, then the only way to remove the stuff from such a large floor is by a lightly sandblasting it. After that, you will put your floor on a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent, NOT a stone soap). Do you have any wax or other strippable topical finish on your floor? If so, then you will have to have it stripped by a professional janitor and then, once again, put your floor on a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent (NOT a stone soap). If you don’t have any coating at all, does your floor look much better when it’s wet than when it’s dry? If so, starting right away with a “diet” of stone color enhancer and neutral floor detergent (NOT a stone soap) will help a lot. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8354: I have a very small countertop (112" by 20" with a sink that takes up 33" x 19") that I am going to tile. The cost of having such a small slab installed is quite prohibitive. I debated about ceramic, etc., but love the look of stone and have decided on the Labrador Verde/Uba
Tuba 12x12 tiles. This stone is usually "listed" as being a member of the granite family, however, on your site I found one reference to it not being a granite (I don't recall the reference number). These tiles are highly polished and I'd be using a sand epoxy grout.
Is this type of stone a granite? Does it need to be sealed? Or does the grout just need to be sealed? I have gotten conflicting information from the same tile store. Any information you could send my way would be just wonderful. Thank you! Lee, Reply

R1: Dear Lee: Is this type of stone a granite? Not by a long shot. It’s Charnockite. Does it need to be sealed? Nope. Or does the grout just need to be sealed? Not if you use epoxy grout, it won’t. I have gotten conflicting information from the same tile store. What a shocker! What else is new?! Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8353: I left a container of strawberries on my granite counter. Now I have a red rectangle from the juices that ran! The granite was installed 5 years ago and is still in great condition. Is it possible to remove this staining? Thanks, Ellen, Reply

R1: Dear Ellen: Absolutely! And it’s gonna be easy, too! :-) When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8352: I would like to find out some of the pros and cons to installing slate tiles in a kitchen countertop. It’s difficult to find in depth information. Can you help? Elerne, Reply

R1: Dear Erlene: No sweat! It’s very easy: Cons: Anything bad you that can think of (etching, scratching, defoliating even, with certain slates) will happen, and then some! Prevention: impossible. Repair: just about there. Pros: None whatsoever! I told you it was easy! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8351: Would you please tell what to use to clean marble and granite tombstones? Thank you, Lola, Reply

R1: Dear Lola: It all depends on the conditions the tombstones are. Some may just require a light duty stone cleaner like my excellent MB-5; some other my need to be hit harder, with a product to handle grime and mold, such as my outlandish MB-9. Some others yet are beyond cleaning and need mechanical intervention by a professional stone refinisher.

Q 8350: We have recently had granite installed in our kitchen. I have noticed that a corner of the island appears to have broke off and was repaired. On the finished edge I can see what appears to be a spot of putty. On the top surface in the proper light you can see a hairline crack which is rough as though stone dust was sprinkled in the crack to conceal. This hairline crack continues to the underside. Putty material is also visible on underside. I went back to the fabricators and they insist that it is impossible to repair granite and that what I see must be a fisures (I apologize if I have misspelled fisures). The day the granite was installed, I noticed a large smear of something that looked like dried putty on that corner. I disregarded it since I know nothing about the process of fabrication. I figured it was something used during the fabrication process. I believe now that it was there to secure the fragile corner during transportation. The fabricators are sending someone out to look at this corner (insisting that it not a repair). My concern is that if this is a repair that it will eventually fall off. Please respond. Thank you. Reply

R1: Dear Inquirer: From your description it is a 100% repair and not so good, either! I fissure doesn’t go through and through and doesn’t have any glue, either!
Your fear is more than justified. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8349: I would greatly appreciate your expert advice. We have a large entrance in the large house in Southern California made out of 16x16" travertine tiles (beige color). We are planning to install 18x18" marble tile (cream marfill) (16X16" size does not exist) in the kitchen and small corridor that continues to the 1/2 bath and laundry room. Which type of joint/interface between tavertine and marble do you recommend? We are planning to have a straight, tight joint instalation for the marble tile? Your help will be greatly appreciated, indeed. Thanks a lot Best Regards, Mario, Reply

R1: Dear Mario: You don’t really mean to install polished Crema Marfil marble tiles in your kitchen, do you??! Hone-finished would be all right, but then again, you do NOT want “butt-joint” them!! 1/16” grout gap is “your man”! Any less or more than that would be looking for trouble! About the joint interface between the travertine and the marble tiles, there are a few available and all pretty good. Just get the one you like better. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8348: I just bought a home. It has marble around the fire place. I just notice yellow stain at the top of the fire place opening on the marble. I bought a stone cleaner but it didn't work. Can you help me Please. I need to find something to take it off and keep it off. Thank You!!! Reply

R1: Dear Inquirer: “I need to find something to take it off and keep it off.” So do I! :-) You can try treating it as an inorganic stain (although it’s actually not) and keep your fingers crossed! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8347: Hi--we just had our kitchen redone and used "Tan Brown" granite for our countertops. They were sealed with a penetrator. After living with them for a couple of weeks, it looks like there is some rough spots (I can feel them when I run my hand over the top) and some nicks in the granite. Is this normal? Is this more common with some granites than with others? Do we just live with it or is there something we should do? Also, everyone keeps saying how easy granite is...I don't experience that as much. I feel I have to keep wiping and polishing our counters. In the sunlight, they looks streaky, have a "rainbow" effect, and I can see fingerprints. What gives? Thanks! Mary, Reply

R1: Dear Mary: Tan Brown, which is Charnockite from Brazil, may present a few minor spots with some roughness and some nicks. If they’re more than a few, then it may very well be that your slab was not the best candidate to enter into a grading contest! :-( As for the streaks that you’re experiencing you shouldn’t have them. They may be due to the fact that – as you’re reporting – your fabricator applied a penetrating sealer to your stone that never penetrated (Charnockite should not be sealed) and therefore you still have slight film of the stuff. If could also be that you’re not using the right products to clean your countertop with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8346: I have a question regarding standard practices for sealing granite. Does it typically come sealed from a distributor and is re-sealed by the fabricator. Apparently our distributor does not seal it and we as the fabricator are not so it’s going out un-sealed. Is this a common industry practice or what? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks. Jon, Reply

R1: Dear Jon: I can see that the “ministers” of the “sealing cult” didn’t get to you yet! :-)
I can also see that to you “granite is granite”. :-( How can you ever expect “standard practices on sealing granite” when the 95% of the stones traded as granite are related to geological granite and to each other like a cat to a cow?! Certain mercantile granites need to be sealed, many other don’t. Even among the “granites” that need to be sealed the procedure can become moot if the slab was resined by the factory. So, as you can see, talking of “standard practices” on a not-standard material would be a totally useless exercise.
Having said that, the distributors do NOT seal their slab. It is up to the fabricator to find out whether a slab of any given material needs to be sealed or not and act accordingly. Makes sense, doesn’t it?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8345: Hi there, we are interested in installing Travertine (Classic Noce) on our master bath floors and shower stall. What is the best finish for a stone in this type of application? Is there a specific way it ought to be installed? What does "tumbled" mean? Thank you for any and all help you can provide us! Reply

R1: Dear Cassandra: Honed and filled is the most practical finish for your application. “Tumbled” means that the pieces of travertine have been treated by being processed for a pre-determined period of time inside a tumbler together with highly abrasive agents to make it achieve the look that you have now. I wouldn’t recommend that type of finish unless your installer provides to fill all the holes. You don’t want open holes in a shower stall! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8344: We've recently had installed a granite countertop. The countertop came in three pieces. However we have one piece that is much darker, smoother and much shinier than the other two. The shade difference is very obvious and we would like to know what to do to have all three pieces the same shade. The colour is desert brown (nutmeg). Please advise, as this is quite disturbing to us and we can't seem to get any advice from our supplier, Reply

R1: Dear Shortie: I’m afraid you think too much of me. I’m not THAT clever! At least not to the point of being able of changing two pieces of granite slabs into something else! Nothing can be done mechanically. However, if the difference is so dramatic, you don’t have to accept the job and demand that the different piece be replaced with something closer to the other two, or vice versa. Some variation is acceptable, but when it becomes too much, it is not.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8343: What a fabulous website!! I am so thrilled to have found it before I purchased a granite countertop. I looked over the list of the 180 most common granites and believe I found one that I am considering: Crystal White, which I presume is the same as Blanco Cristal. Should I consider using it for a kitchen countertop? I also like the appearance of Isabella Brown and Tapestry, neither of which I found among the 180. What can you tell me about either of these? Thanks. Cathy, Reply

R1: Dear Cathy: What can you tell me about either of these?”
How about if I won’t tell you anything about either of these two stones and hint at the fact that you’re starting your “stone adventure” with the wrong foot? I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8342: We just had a granite countertop installed in our kitchen. The type of granite is Venetian Gold (darker version with brown spots). I have noticed small fissures and some pits on the surface. I just wanted to know if this is normal for this type of granite or should I be concerned that the granite was not polished properly. Thanks for your help. Sincerely Bill, Reply

R1: Dear Bill: Yes, a certain amount of fissures and pits has to be expected with this particular “granite” and most other “granites”. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8341: My parents are finally updating their kitchen and have decided on granite countertops. I couldn't seem to find much information about Amazon Blue or Giallo Sporanza. Are either of these suitable for kitchen countertop? Is one a better choice than the other (less upkeep, better quality, less likely to crack, etc.?) Thanks for any help! Jennifer, Reply

R1: I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8340: Because I need a surface that will be as impermeable as possible (I breed show cats, who have been known to leave various undesirable bodily fluids on counter backs and tops), I started looking at solid surfaces. I became dissatisfied with the appearance after seeing granite.
I have read as many of the Q & A's as I can find. I would like a dark color, a gree/red or pinkish perhaps, that would go well with cherry cabinets stained to blend with the mahogany furniture in my dining room that will be open to the kitchen. I have seen and liked "Apple Blossom," "Green Rose," and "Forest Green." I am thinking of having the backsplash rise to the bottom of the wall cabinets from the countertop and be made of solid surface in a light color.
I am concerned about: these granites' density, suitability for this application, and compatibility with impregnators/sealers. Obviously, I am concerned about sanitation. I am also concerned about cleaners and sealers being non-toxic to cats. Please advise. Thank you Mary, Reply

R1: Dear Mary: If you don’t mind me saying so, you’re starting out with the wrong foot. :-)
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8339: I just toured your site and didn't find an answer to my specific question, so here goes.
We have about 900 square feet of poured concrete around our pool. unfortunately its been painted over many times and has cracks and has lifted (or the pool settled). we would like to cover it with some kind of flagstone or Philadelphia blue stone that we saw on hgtv. what would be the
best surface for a pool area(non slippery) and what do you think the costs might be and how difficult a job is it? any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Reply

R1: Dear Wanda: I give you two choices: 1. saw-cut unfilled travertine (relatively inexpensive). 2. Flamed or bush-hammered granite (more expensive but as bullet-proof as they come). Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8338: I am designing a retirement "cottage" which will be our permanent residence. I love the look of marble and as I love to cook and bake, the idea of rolling pastry on marble, etc., appeals to me. I have been warned of the softness of marble and that it will stain, but I don't expect it to stay the way it looked new. Marble is used in Italy and all the old houses have it and it looks great, "warts" and all. I would get honed marble, because if it is too shiny it will show more scratches. My second choice is soapstone. Please let me know how this compares with the carrera marble. I am European, and I don't need shiny and new. In fact, I prefer the patina of age. Elfie, Reply

R1: Dear Elfie: The following is the “copy and paste” answer I always give to queries like yours: “ABOUT MARBLE IN A KITCHEN It’s a culture issue. All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it! How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor, for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought “lived-in” look. While the looks of an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look like brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered “aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified. Hence the problem. The question now is: regardless of your geographical location, which one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)” Going by your posting you sound like a perfect candidate for hone-finished marble in a kitchen! And … marble is not THAT soft; certainly not as soft as soapstone, that you can actually scratch with your fingernail! To avoid staining all you have to do is apply a good quality stone impregnating sealer like my outlandish MB-4. You will then upkeep your countertop with my fine specialty cleaning products – if you know what I mean!! :-) Now, very important: make sure that you get the right fabricator!! The human factor is much more important than the stone itself! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8337: Problem with newly installed volga blue granite countertop. The edges(double bullnose) are not shiny even after they were buff and sealed.What seems to be the problem and how can we fix it? Sergio, Reply

R1: Dear Sergio: Now, if your fabricator – who’s supposed to be the professional in the picture – was not able to polish the edges of your countertop, are you hoping that one could tell you how to do it yourself over the internet??!
The only piece of advice I can give you id to keep pestering your fabricator until they learn how to do their job and deliver a decent result to you. If not, your only option is to hire a professional stone refinisher in your area. I don’t see why you should be paying for this, though! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8336: Hi, we are trying to decide on countertop. Untill reading your site, I'd have gone for limestone!! Granites are mostly too busy, polka dott-y for my personal taste! Thank you! R Samuels, Reply

R1: Dear R. Samuel: Granite is, very definitely, the best material that money can buy for a kitchen countertop. Now, are you trying to tell me that among the hundreds of possible choices of mercantile granite there is not a single one that like??!! :)
At any rate, regardless of the stone, I’m afraid that you’re starting off with the wrong foot.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!”Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8335: We just purchased a new home with porcelain tile floors and ceramic tiles in a bathroom. Should all the grout be sealed? Marlene, Reply

R1: Dear Marlene: It may not be a necessity, but it’s always a good bet! You may want to consider my outlandish MB-4 to do the job for you! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8334: We are in the process of building a new home, and are contracting out it ourselves. Has been quite an experience, brings to mind the old joke about one representing oneself...... Actually, it's been great because we have at this point been able to achieve exactly what we wanted. My question is, we were looking into limestone for our walk-in-shower, and after having read some of the concerns on the website, I think we should try something else. We love the look of limestone, do you have any suggestions as to the type of stone we should be using. The least maintenance the better. We are building right on oceanside property, so will have sand, etc., tracked in. Also, we were contemplating using limestone on our fireplaces, and once again not sure after reading some of the concerns on your website, so any recommendations you could give us would be most beneficial. Thanks in advance! Cara, Reply

R1: Dear Cara: If you like the look of limestone but want to avoid the possible maintenance nightmare attached to it, you should look into hone-finished marble. Same look, different animal! You may also want to look into honed and filled travertine. That’s indeed a low maintenance stone, providing that it’s installed right and that you care for it with the right cleaning agents. As for the fireplace, considering that’s more ornamental than anything else, limestone could be all right. Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8333: My wife and I are stuck and increasingly at odds - we have heard/read such a wide variety of opinions on stone kitchen countertops we can't figure out what works. We both want a natural stone look. Something like Pietra Cardoso, soapstone, slate, (or maybe honed Jet Mist granite?) . I want something low maintenance, where we don't have to worry about spills, etc - and it seems like (at least according to Maurizio) none of these surfaces fits the bill. My wife hates the look of manufactured stone products (quartz, etc). I fear we are headed toward ceramic tile!!! Help!!! David, Reply

R1: Dear David: “My wife hates the look of manufactured stone products (quartz, etc).” I love her already!! :-) Slate is totally out of the picture. Hone back granite is very “iffy” as you can tell by a few threads on the subject in this very forum. Pietra di Cardosa is a good choice, if sealed properly. Soapstone is thumb-up in my book. No sealing necessary and it’s impervious to acidic spills. You will have to deal with the scratching problem, but it’s no big deal. However, having said all that, I must say that I believe you’re starting off with the wrong foot! :-) I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 8332: I have gone through most of your site looking for an answer. I have a new giallo veneziano counter installed in my kitchen and I have sealed it twice using TileLab surfacegaurd penetrating sealer. It still absorbs water, but not as much as it used to. I was wondering if I can change the sealant and use one that is recommended on this website for the third or fourth(hopefully not) application. Or would you suggest I stick with the tilelab sealant. How many coats does new giallo veneziano requre in general.. Thanks so much, Bobby, Reply

R1: Dear Bobby: The particular product you used is famous for … well … not sealing too good! :-(
Using a different product without stripping the stuff that you have now it may or may not work. On the other hand, the stripping involves the u