| Q
6948: Thanks
for a very informative forum. I am planning to install natural stone
tiles in my foyer and kitchen. One choice is the Durango tile - Is
it a good choice for kitchen floor? Would it scratch easily? Is it
a travertine or limestone? I've been giving conflicting answers. Many
thanks in advance. WO in NJ, Aug
28, Reply |
R1:
Dear Wing: Durango is full-fledged travertine. The lighter color one
(kinda whitish) is pure garbage. The tan color is a terrific stone!!
Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too
often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Hi
WO in NJ Travertine is a type of limestone that is usually formed
as cave deposits or mineral laden springs rather than under the ocean.
Honed finish will be OK Polished in the kitchen --not such a good
idea. Durango is a mexican travertine as far as I know |
| Q
6947: I
am sorry that I found this site AFTER the long thought-out decision
for the kitchen counter stone was made, but here goes. The stone we
chose is a beautiful green-gold veined stone they call Golden Lightning.
The fabricator did not seal it, nor say it should be sealed. It is
not a highly polished surface, and I don't think it has etched at
all in our 10 months of use. Bottom line - should we be doing something
to this stone we don't know about? The country of origin, we were
told, was Iran. Please advise. Thank you! Renee, Aug 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Renee: Golden Lightning huh!... Never heard of it, but one thing
I can promise you: it ain’t granite! True geological granite
doesn’t have any veining, it’s never green and it looks
… well, like granite! :-) Does your stone need to be sealed?
I have no idea. If you spill water onto it and letere for a while,
does the stone underneath the water becomes any darker than the rest?
Is so, it does need to be sealed. If not, it doesn’t. Regardless,
I would to encourage you to concentrate more on the daily maintenance
issues. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6946: I
am looking for a stone tile to use for the driveway, garage, walkway
and pool surround (5000sf/460sm) of a house in Southern California
(on the coast). I love the look of the French limestone 'Beaumaniere
Claire' which is a light beige with terra cotta striations, but I
am concerned that it will absorb dirt and oil like a sponge and that
the salt air will destroy it. Can you create a flamed surface with
this particular limestone? A muriatic acid wash was suggested to create
a non-slip surface around the
pool, but my instinct tells me to go with a flamed granite instead.
I'm wondering if there is a sandstone that would possibly be appropriate.
How does Australian Helidon compare with the Indian 'Thin Mint Lines'
or Italian 'Santafiora'? I've also come across a Portuguese 'Abancado
Lioz' and theGerman 'Bentheim' and 'Cotta" sandstones. There
doesn't seem to be a standard measureme
it sit thnt
system by which to compare any of them. The exterior of the house
has just been clad in travertine with a slate
roof, and I'm looking for something lighter in color with a bit of
visual texture to anchor it. There is an Indian granite 'Ghibli' that
may work but again how absorbent is it and would it need to be treated
with an impregnator/sealer? I am especially concerned about oil and
tiremarks in the garage/driveway. I am looking for 24" (60cm)
square tiles or something close in the sandstone, or probably a bit
smaller in the granite. They would be laid over old existing surfaces
made up of aggregate concrete, unfilled travertine and epoxy coated
cement. Any immediate information would be greatly appreciated. Thank
You, Elisabeth, Aug 28, Reply |
R1:
Hello, the best thing you could do to this is use cantera on your
pool side because cantera stone absorbs heat in a matter of speaking
and it doesn't reflect it back, the appearance can either be a natural
look (honed type) chiseled or brushed type besides the figure of the
border that you would like to use. and you have dark and light varieties
of this stone. Marble and granite will bounce back heat and you would
not be able to walk barefoot for a long period of time if the sun
is strong, even if you use a honed appearance. Besides you have to
make small stripe type of grooves to avoid a slippery surface on your
pool coping.
For your garage there is a "cement oxidation" method that
penetrates your mortar (cement) and you don't have to worry about
repainting it because it is not a paint. This oxidative methos has
a variety of colors and the surface can either be "plain"
or have someone make the driveway a "stone face" type of
driveway with molds of stone pavers.
This metod does not require constant maintenance and sealers are also
used. The sealers and oxidation methods are divided into interior
and exteriors type with a wide selection od colors or mixed colors
as preferred by the customer.
This oxidatin methods is very common in heavy traffics areas on hotels
and driveways of houses. Wish you well Netz |
| R2:
Dear Mrs Elisabeth, We would not suggest to use limestone for parkways
or similar. You colud proceed with travertine with various finishing
and thckness due to the use u should provide. As an alternative you
could use yellow granite flamed that is good to be used in every part
of your house. We could eventually provide you with any of this materials
at a wonderful ratio quality / price. I am at your disposal for any
further info. Best regards, Marta |
| R3:
yes we can give a flamed look on stone but your best bet will be to
get a flmed granite as this is one of the most ddurable stones and
though expensive are very beautiful too. We have contacts in the USA
for this type of stone, please email me for further info, regards,
anwar |
| Q
6945: I
am planning to get giallo veneziano for my countertop for a very busy
family kitchen.... is this a good way to go.... i love it , but my
husband prefers a darker green granite countertop, but i'm not sure
i want to go that way.... is it true that the dark green counters
will show every water spot, etc ... Aug 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carol: It is true and it is false at the same time. Dark green
“granites” do not show any “water spot” if left
alone, but if somebody is going to apply an impregnator/sealer to
it thinking that it is granite, then, yes, there are very good chances
that it will show “water spots.” Having said that, in an
industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process it is far more important
than the stone itself. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write
a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen
Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6944: We
are looking to purchase granite for our kitchen island. The one that
we liked is Black Cosmos (looks like Black Galaxy with silver flecks
instead of gold), but I cannot find any information about this stone.
Any info about the suitability of this stone for a countertop would
be greatly appreciated. I did the 'lemon test' (using RealLemon concentrate
liquid--I hope that's acceptable) and it didn't absorb the liquid
or stain. So that's good, right? Thanks for all your good insights
on the site and looking forward to your thoughts on this stone. Maryanne,
Aug 28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Maryanne: (well yes, I admit it: I’m not really fond of
anonymous! :-)) I’m not 100% sure about it, but it is my understanding
that what you called “Black Cosmos” is still Black Galaxy.
What I mean by that is that I believe that the stone is coming from
the same quarry, but the specks of metal have a different color. But
then again, I might be wrong. It doesn’t matter, anyway. If it
passed the lemon juice (and oil) test with flying colors, then you’re
in good shape about the stone itself. The most important thing, however,
in an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process it is far more important
than the stone itself. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here! I’ve
seen quite a few low-grade slabs on “Black Cosmo” lately)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6943: Could
you please clarify for me the pros and cons of granite vs. cambria.
I have heard some things but am still very confused. Also, how much
quartz is in each material? Please help in any way possible. Thanks!
Aug 28,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Kathryn: This question has been asked 1 million times and answered
1 million times already.
Engineered Stone (ES) is manmade material, and “granite”
… which one are you interested in? 95% of the stone traded as
granite are related to granite and to each other like a cat to a cow.
Some have lots of quartz in it; some other only a little and some
other yet none whatsoever. And, BTW, what’s so important about
getting to know the percentage of quartz in a stone? Personally I’m
not particularly fond of ES. It’s touted as an indestructible
material, but it does have its problems like anything else under the
sky.
How about getting to know if the fabrication facility that’s
going to process a good slab of “granite” it is going to
give you your money worth?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process it is far more important
than the stone itself. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for
a Granite Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6942: I
have just had limestone counter tops installed in my kitchen (Tazmanian
Gold, a beautiful mottled appearance). The fabricator said it had
been sealed. I am wondering if it needs another coat of sealer because
there are already several pale round stains appearing on the surface
where glasses were sitting. The casual observer would probably not
notice them unless someone called attention to them. This is only
the second time anything has been prepared on them!
Also,
there are several dark imperfections in the stone that look like
cigarette burns...one is directly in front of the sink, and extremely
noticeable. When I think of how much we paid to have this installed,
it makes me sick. I can't believe the fabricator worked this stone
into a counter top without even consulting us to let us know of
the flaws in it.
Is
this the fault of the company who sold us the stone, or the fault
of the fabricator who saw the imperfections in the stone, and didn't
let us know, or my own fault because I did not see this piece of
stone directly? We saw one slab that we had marked for us and sent
to the fabricator. The fabricator then contacted us and told us
that we would need another slab for the dimensions needed. We contacted
the place that sold us the original slab (which is a good distance
from our home) and told them we needed another slab from the same
run of limestone. They assured us it would match the first slab.
However, the first slab did not have the imperfections (blackish-brown
spots of shiny mineral that look like cigarette burns) that the
second slab obviously had. Is there any way to dig these areas out
and fill them to match the rest of the stone?
I need
information on how to maintain the limestone. I'm also thinking
about backsplash in tumbled limestone. Can this be sealed such that
it can be cleaned on a regular basis, or is it going to end up staining?
I love the look of the tumbled 4" squares of limestone, as
our home is furnished with French antiques. However, if it is going
to be a maintenance nightmare, I'll go with some type of ceramic
or porcelain. Many thanks for any information you can provide, Aug
28, Reply
|
| R1:
Well, here you are asking about maintainance issues on your backsplash,
and you haven't even considered the maintainance issues for your limestone
countertop. Those rings you are seeing are etch marks from acidic
liquids. Your kitchen is full of them, and no amount of "sealer"
in the world will keep the stone from etching. And obviously, since
you find natural inclusions with in the stone to be problems, and
want to assess the blame onto someone for something only nature has
control over, you are never going to be happy with this material in
your kitchen. Too bad whoever convinced you to choose a limestone
for your kitchen did not explain to you about natural variation in
the stone in general, and and the specific issues calcitic stones
present. JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6941: Are
granite slabs used for showers? What's the upkeep on these? Would
granite slabs be better than porcelain tile? Thanks! Aug
28, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jack: Yes, they are. It all depends on the “granite”
one chooses and the way it’s installed. Ditto. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6940: I
found some beautiful natural colored marble tiles that I would like
to use in our master bath floors/shower. I've always used ceramic
tile and had great luck with it in many houses. However, in this new
house I'd like something a little nicer for our beautiful bathroom/dressing
room. What is the upkeep on marble floors/shower and how do you clean
it? Aug
26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan: First off, the way the marble tiles
are installed in a shower stall is of a vital importance. Second,
if properly care for, marble can be very enjoyable! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6939: Hi-On
the Caesarstone website, it says that some of their products can be
ordered with a honed finish. Do you think this will have the same
problems as honed granite? Aug
26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Marg: Yes, exactly the same problems. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
|
| Q
6938: I'm
just beginning the process of renovating both a kitchen and bath in
an 1850 gothic cottage. And it's now time to decide what countertops
to use in those two rooms. I do want a stone countertop in both, but
really didn't want the high sheen of polished granite. After reading
your comments on honed granite, I believe I'll stay away. I do want
a black or blue-black color in the kitchen and thought about soapstone
but it seems to be more temperamental than honed granite. My designer
is suggesting that I install Black Absolute "granite." Hence,
I think I'm going to have to allow the counters to shine. BUT I still
wonder what you think about quartz? I would have considered only granite
if I was buying one with a beautiful natural pattern in it. But I
want as little pattern as possible. What do you think? Lisa, NYC.
Aug 26, Reply |
R1:
Dear Lisa: Now, why would anybody ever consider Engineered Stone (ES)
over Black granite?? Same price, but still more beautiful. Also, Black
granite is more maintenance-free than ES. It doesn’t need to
be sealed (you actually will NOT allow anybody to seal it!) and you
can always put a hot pot onto it. You can’t do that on ES, that’s
for sure!!
What it really boils down to is that in an industry that’s virtually
unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going
to process it is far more important than the stone itself. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6937: I
just recently found the site and have learned alot. I am writing to
see if you can offer some advice on the new countertop that we had
installed in our kitchen. It is, I've been told, Kashmir Ivory. Do
you have any advice on how to keep the countertop shiny? What do we
have to do to prevent stains? I have only had the countertop for a
few days and I already have an unwanted stain from bacon grease (a
few splatters). Is there a way to remove this? Does this stone need
to have a sealer? The installer said they applied a sealer, but I
have no idea what type, nor do I think it is applied evenly. After
washing dishes, I could see water stains. (They evenually dried up).
Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Geneva,
Aug 26,
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Geneva; Obviously you fabricator did a lousy job at sealing your
countertop. The following is a follow-up of mine to a thread posted
by a homeowner like you on a another stone related forum, who had
the same type of “granite” installed.I concur with Dave.
Two applications of an impregnator are not nearly enough for a "sponge"
like Kashmir White. Keep on sealing!!
Which brings up a very important point: I receive literally dozens
of e-mails every day from inquirers asking about the suitability of
one "granite" or another. Many a granite needs to be sealed,
and certain "extreme" one need it real bad. So the question
boils down to: “If they apply an impregnator/sealer will I have
any problem in the future?
There's no answer to that. In fact, if PROPERLY sealed with the RIGHT
impregnator, the answer would be: “Yes, go ahead and enjoy your
stone!
But that presumes a "perfect world." And we do not live
in a perfect world, do we?!...
No matter how good an impregnator is, it is just as good as the operator
who applies it. Most of the time, if a stone needs to be sealed the
impregnator has to be applied twice (I consider that a minimum requirement,
unless we're dealing with dense stones such as honed or tumbled travertine,
etc.) But then again, that's only a rule of thumb, because not all
impregnators are the same! With very porous stones like the one object
of this thread, at least three applications will be necessary.
And now here comes the kicker: all impregnators on the market will
tell you to perform the second application after a couple of hours
or so. My own product reads that on the directions printed on the
bottle, too. It's a lie.
An interval of at least 24 hours is required for the best performance.
So, why I, Maurizio Bertoli, the inventor of the motto: "Education
before any sale!" ever wrote that on my impregnator/sealer? Because
I was losing sales to the lies that everybody else had printed on
their products, that's why! How many contractors do you think there
are out there that will take the time to go back to a certain home
three time (or more) in three different days to finish the sealing
job??! So, the contractor goes for the "easy" impregnator
that says that after a couple of hours you can do the second application!
(If they plan to wait THAT long anyway!)
I always try very hard to present myself as a model of integrity and
act upon it, but there's a limit. I consider the lie that I deliver
as self-defense. For integrity sake I can't keep looking at all the
other "salesmen" smiling all the way to the bank and me
- with one of the best products on the market - losing dealers left
and right because I am the only one who printed the truth on my bottle,
can I?...
All in all, I reached the conclusion that, while I always used to
consider a sealing job as a contractor activity, it is much better
if the homeowner is going to do it. At least they can take all the
time the need. After all it's their possession! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6936: We
stored some filled travertine outside prior to instillation. Some
of the pieces had mildew on them. We put the stone tiles in water
and bleach to kill the mildew and remove the black spots on them.
It removed the mildew however they have a dull look to them versus
the ones not treated with bleach and water. Please advise. Thank you
in advance for your help. Diana . Aug 26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diana: The solution of water and bleach etched the surface of
your tile. Only a bona fide stone restoration contractor could re-polish
them. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6935: I've
read through answers you've given and couldn't get a definitive yes/no
about whether or not to seal. We have about 100 sq' of granite counter
tops throughout our kitchen (junipera/juniperara?). It's a fairly
new home and we are the second owners. We've lived here almost 2 years
and the kitchen is a heavily used room. So far, no problems with the
granite. Should I seal? Any harm sealing? What should I use? Thx,
Aug 26, Reply |
R1:
Dear Elsie: How can you expect a definite Yes/No answer about sealing
300 different “granites” 285 of which are not even related
to granite or to one another?! :-)
If you didn’t get any stain it means that it was sealed properly
(for a refreshing change!), because your stone is naturally very porous
indeed. There’s no harm at applying a good-quality stone impregnator
(like my outlandish MB-4!). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6935: Hello
there, I was hoping to get some objective advice regarding a marble
floor installation recently completed at my home. I am by no means
an expert on marble or the laying thereof, but I feel that something
is quite amiss. My question is: is it normal for the floor to be uneven,
i.e. certain marble tiles are higher/lower than others on the floor.
You can feel slight ridges due to unevenness through the floor. The
installer "warned" me before installation that this could
very well be a possibility because according to him no floor is level
and he was never requested to lay marble "tight" with minimal
grout line. He also says due to the way marble is cut that it never
is a straight smooth floor when you run your hands across it - that
there will be small ridges here and there. I'd like to point out that
it's not the grout that is high/low, it is the actual tiles. I had
contracted this job through Lowe's, and Lowe's and the contractors
they hired are all in agreement that the job was done satisfactorily.
I would appreciate some input as to whether I am just expecting perfection
out of something that is not possible, or I'm just being fed a line
due to an inexperienced installer. Thanks for your time, Anne Marie,
Aug 26,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Anne Marie: I’ve got bad news and good news for you. The
bad news is that you’ve been fed a line and big time too. It’s
funny noticing that since the installer knows that he doesn’t
know what he’s doing is “warning” customers about his
inability by delivering some hogwash like the one you’ve been
fed. The good news are actually two good news: 1. Among the precious
few industry standards about marble tile floors there’s one that
indicates that the tolerance for “lippage” (is what you
call ridges) is 1/32”. 2. The customer satisfaction policy of
the big boxes is unrivaled. You will demand that your floor is ripped
out and re-installed by a competent setter. You will find little resistance.
And … I don’t care what you like, but unless it’s tumbled
marble you want to keep your grout lines no more than 1/8” wide,
sand-less grout. (1/16” is even better.) Now, remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you
can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6934: Hi!
I am looking into tiles for our foyer and laundry room, as we are
in the process of putting an addition on our house. I really like
the look of travertine and was not real keen on the recommendation
(from the folks we are buying the tile from! ) that I would need to
seal it to keep it clean. Since I was looking around for info on travertine
and ran across your page I thought I might be able to bother you for
some advice on where to look for the best information on installation
and care of travertine! Aug
26, Reply |
R1:
Dear Richard: To seal travertine to keep it clean??!! That’s
a good one all right!! :-)
It’s probably part of the new “religious cult” that
preaches to seal everything in sight that doesn’t move!! Travertine
does not need to be sealed, but it does need to be taken care of in
the right way. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6933: I
have been reading some of your answers to all the many questions.
I live in Fairbanks, Alaska. In May I had a granite counter top installed
(ubatuba). When they installed the counter top it broke in-between
the sink top and bottom, they were able to put together with no major
chunks. They put some kind of glue and started to grind out any unevenness.
The fracture lines are evident but seem to be solid?!!!! I have the
choice to repair it a little more with a large discount, or replace
it. I have not had good luck with these people being that it is now
August and am now getting these choices. If I keep this counter will
I expect further destruction in time?? I am having such a hard time
deciding. Please help with your expect advise!!!! Aug
26, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Equinox: Have it replaced and have the narrow areas in front
and back of the sink properly rodded. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q 6932:
Thank
you for your informative site...I've been reading with great interest.
We recently purchased and had installed 'granite' countertops from
a small company in our area. We got a 'really great deal', which
causes me now to wonder about the composition of our countertop.
Our color is "Golden Leaf" and it is pictured in the attached
photo. We gave it two applications of sealant upon installation
(4 months ago) but it seems to be starting to absorb somewhat. Could
you speculate as to what kind of stone this is and with what frequency
sealing is required? Regards and thanks, Dee, Aug
26, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dee: I’m not very familiar with that particular stone, but
it looks like true granite to me. The frequency of the sealing procedure
is strictly related to the product that was originally applied. Two
applications may not have been enough if the impregnator that your
fabricator used is on the thin side. It could also be one of those
impregnators that need to be applied once a year or so. It much depends
also from the type of cleaner you use for routine care. It may not
damage the stone, but it could be detrimental to the sealer. There’s
no sure rule.My impregnator/sealer, MB-4 needs to be applied only
once every 10 years (it comes with 10-warranty). My specialty products
will never damage any impregnator/sealer.So, you see, too many variables!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6932: I
have searched the site and can't find any specific advice as to sealing
travertine table tops - specifically ones on a screen porch. We have
two round travertine top dining tables and a travertine top wine console.
It's not only conceivable, but likely, that our grandchildren or their
grandparents(!) will spill food/liquid on them. They are not sealed.
Should we seal them; and if so, what do you recommend we use? Thank
you for your help - Peter, Aug
16, Reply |
R1:
Dear Peter: A sealer for stone (better defined as “impregnator”)
is not a topical sealer of sorts that will envelope your stone within
an impenetrable cocoon. All sealers for stone are impregnators and,
as such, are below-surface products that only deal with the rate of
absorbency of the stone by dramatically reducing it. It is obvious
that since they have to go below the stone surface, they have to be
absorbed by it to begin with. It is also obvious that since none of
the stuff will be allowed to cure and stay on the surface, no protection
whatsoever to the surface itself can be expected.
Having said that and coming to your travertine, for starter it will
not absorb a darn thing, since it’s the densest stone there is
available among the calcite-based ones. (Widespread popular misconception
has it that travertine is very absorbent. It is not, and it’s
a scientific fact, not my opinion.) Therefore the application of an
impregnator/sealer to it would only help its makers and its distributors
to put their kids through college.
That was the good news. The bad news is the fact that travertine is
a calcite-based stone, therefore it readily reacts to acidic spills
by etching, which is not staining: it’s rather surface damage,
a mark of corrosion, which has nothing to do with the (very limited)
absorbency rate of the stone itself, but exclusively with its natural
chemical make-up. Soda, drinks, lemonade, orange juice, vinegar, salad
dressing … you name it, will damage the stone surface by just
becoming in contact with it in a matter of a few seconds. These damages
will look like “water spots” or “water rings.”
No sealer for stone under the sun will ever offer one iota of protection
against those occurrences.
Bottom line: the wrong stone for the wrong application. End of story.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6931: I
just installed some 12x12 granite tiles, and after they dried, several
right in the middle of the room are many shades lighter than the rest
of the lot (moral is--don't lay after dark Is there a product or chemical
that I can use to INTENTIONALLY DARKEN the light tiles permanently?
Aug 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steven: Yes, there is: a stone color enhancer like my outlandish
MB-6! But before you purchase some, give your floor more time to dry
completely. It may take a few weeks. Applying the color enhancer now
would be a grave mistake, since you obviously still have moisture
in those tiles. Once everything will be totally dry, you may choose
to keep the original color and apply an impregnator/sealer like my
Universe-famous MB-4, or the color enhancer if you still want your
floor darker. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6930: Our
cleaning lady told us that she cleaned a bathroom countertop (one
of three) with Lysol. The result was that the countertop finish (shine)
was removed and the countertop looks “bleached” in color.
What can we do to restore it to the same finish as the other two ?
(the cleaning lady claims that she has been using Lysol on all three
countertops over a period of time, Aug 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mike: Your only option is to get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor who will have to hone and re-polish your countertop. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6929: I have been involved in the stone industry since 1976 and find
your web site to be very informative and your Questions/Answers likewise
and most entertaining. Following market demand our company is increasingly
processing Quartz Engineered Stone (Silestone, Caesar Stone etc...),
in the industry however negative rumors abound including that these
materials have been banned in many states of the USA and that demand
for the product in USA has drastically declined to the point of imminent
extiction.I would appreciate your comments.Regards Claude, Aug 16,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Claude: Many thanks for your nice comment. I must make clear
however, that findstone.com is NOT my website. It belongs to a nice
gentleman, Mr. Vinay Somani, out of Mumbay (former Bombay), India.
Having said that and coming to your question, I’m not implying
that those rumors are urban legends; I’m just saying that I never
heard them. I’ve never been much involved in the Engineered Stone
industry. The material has his own merits, but it is not the bullet-proof
alternative to granite that their promoters wanted to make people
believe. If you add to the mix the fact that it cost just as much
as granite – if not more … you fill the blanks!The only
reason why it found a share of the market is because of the rampant
and scary ignorance displayed by the natural stone industry operators,
which in turn is the consequence of the lack of standards and training
and certification programs. The consequence of this ignorance are
horror stories about “granite” and other stones coming in
every day in sites like this one; hence the leverage that the salesmen
of Engineered Stone can use to peddle their product.That is only my
opinion, of course; but ask to yourself: who in his right mind would
chose a very expensive imitation of something if the real thing didn’t
have any problem? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6928: AFter much legwork and deliberation, I have fallen in love with
a batch of Giallo Veneziano that is the exact look I've been searching
for. Unfortunately, it is 2 cm and my builder's forman is steering
me away from using it. He says it is prone to cracking !?! Nobody
I talk to seems to agree. Also, for some reason, this particular fabricator
sells the 2cm and 3cm for the same price, but then adds on the extra
cost for the extra laminated edge for the 2cm, so it may come out
above my budget. I've searched every granite source I have in town
and can'f find a 3cm I love as much as this one. I have found one
that is close, but not as beautiful in my eyes. This particular one
I love is less pink, darker and the white highlights just show so
beautifully. I"'m afraid I'll be getting an inferior result if
I go with the 2cm. Also, I understand that the lip above the undermount
stainless sink will obviously be smaller, and Ï'm wondering if
this will bother me. Most of the homes I"ve been in seem to have
the 3cm. Another issue is that with the laminated edge, I was told
it can be harder to clean and also, if you get an edge that is flush,
you will see the seam. HELP!! Aug
16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Joan: When I was in the fabrication biz I was a fan of the 2
cm. laminated and encouraged all of my customers to go that way, although
I had the 3 cm. alternative. (I was charging the same price. It does
cost more in labor, but the 2cm slab was slightly cheaper.) In my
own house, when I made my countertop I chose 2 cm. laminated. To the
best of my knowledge, none of my countertops ever cracked. On the
other hand, I’ve seen lots of 3 cm. slabs cracked. It all depends
on the fabrication, installation and the sub-floor. Don’t forget
that in this country we still build houses with wood-frames (if you
ask me it is totally ridiculous!) and a 3 cm. countertop is 50% heavier
that its 2 cm counterpart. It’s hardly an opinion, is it?! “Lady
Gravity” never takes a break and she works 24/7 on those wooden
joists! The key of the whole equation resides entirely on the fabricator.
If they know what they’re doing you will be okay. If they don’t,
no matter how thick you get your slab, you’re going to have problems.
As for the sink lip, it’s strictly a question of personal preferences.
To minimize the possibility of chipping, make sure that they give
a certain radius to the upper part of the lip (2 or 3 cm. it doesn’t
matter). Finally, if the lamination seam is done right, you’ve
got to know it’s there to see it!
Who
chose the fabricator? Please, don’t tell me that you got it
through your builder!! I never worked for builders I was too good
(oops: I meant: “too expensive1”) for them! Actually I
did work for one, but only one! He was crazy: he was looking for
quality!! I sincerely hope that your builder is one of those rare
exceptions that confirm the rule. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6927: What
is the difference between Silestone and Zodiaq, if any, and which
is most durable, scratch, heat, and stain resistant? My biggest concern
is having scratch and stain resistant. Thanks for the info? Liz,
Aug 16,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Liz: Engineered Stones (ES) are all the same. Stain and scratch
resistance are okay. Heat resistant: only fair. Granite: scratch resistant:
the same or better than ES, but much easier to repair than ES. Stain
resistant: just as good. Granites that need sealing must be sealed
properly, though. Heat resistant: excellent. Beauty? No contest! Price:
the same.If you need additional assistance you can use my “one-on-one”
consultation service that’s available for a small fee in the
Educational Literature section Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
One cannot take away from granite its unique advantage and that is
its natural beauty. Consumers who are looking for that random look
inherent in natural stones should go for natural stones like granite.
Engineered stones are products manufactured under controlled conditions.
The result is consistency in color, characteristics (technical specs)
and look. Beyond color and look, consumers should consider several
other factors some of which are ease of maintenance and cleaning,
stain resistance (to seal or not to seal), crack/chip/heat resistance,
durability and warranty. Yes, warranty! Warranty, even if limited,
offers a certain level of comfort and ease of mind to consumers. Consumers
really need to establish for themselves what factors are important
to them in deciding which material (engineered stone vs. natural stone)
to use in their homes. Gene |
| Q
6926: My wife and I are remodeling our master bathroom and I fell
in love with the idea of using Garnet Onyx for the countertop. While
visiting a distributor in Brooklyn to look at the slabs in stock,
I found a contrasting color Onyx that I would love to install as the
shower walls. What is the opinion of this august group about using
Onyx in these two applications? Thanks. Aug 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary:
It’s a very delicate stone and does require lots of TLC. Are
you going to give it to her? If you need additional assistance you’re
welcome to use my “one-on-one” consultation service that’s
available for a small fee in the Educational Literature section Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6925: Would
you please advise on the best stone to use in a bathroom, marble or
granite? I would certainly appreciate the pros and cons on each. Thank
you. Tracy, Aug 11, Reply |
| R1:
Either when properly installed and sealed to protect it and maintained
will give years of uses and continued unequaled beauty. |
R2:
Here
we go again with the sealing thing!! It has really become some sort
of religious cult!! Listen to the second clown (about marble): “just
apply good sealer on it and enjoy your bathroom.” First
off, a sealer has to be applied IN the stone, not ON it. Second, how
much Ocean Spray™, coffee and cooking oil will one possibly spill
(and let the spill unattended for half an hour or so) in a bathroom??
And enjoy?? … Does this guy mean to tell people that since the
marble is sealed one can use anything to clean it with??! Or, perhaps,
that since it’s been sealed, it will never need to be cleaned??!
Or, perhaps again, that it will never get damaged (etch-marks) if,
say perfume or toilet bowl cleaner or a generic cleaning agent are
spilled on the marble??! Now we know why the industry has problems
and consumers are all too often not happy with stone!! Marble could
indeed be enjoyable in a bathroom if someone knows how to take proper
care of it – which does NOT include sealing. With that kind of
“information” one will never be a happy camper! And please,
let’s not forget that I make a stone sealer, and a very good
one at that!! The only difference is that I know exactly what one
can expect from a stone sealer. Maurizio, expert panelist, USA
|
6924:
I have been involved in the stone industry since 1976 and find your
web site to be very informative and your Questions/Answers likewise
and most entertaining.
Following market demand our company is increasingly processing Quartz
Engineered Stone (Silestone, Caesar Stone etc...), in the industry
however negative rumors abound including that these materials have
been banned in many states of the USA and that demand for the product
in USA has drastically declined to the point of imminent extiction.
I would appreciate your comments. Regards Claude, Aug 11, Reply |
| R1:
Not only is this material use growing, more and more people are accepting
it as a viable alternative to natural stone ( too bad ). As hard as
they try, nothing will ever compare to the beauty and uniqueness of
natural stone |
Q 6923: My
name is Harold, in Delaware, USA. I have some questions and an interest
to get some options for how to proceed with a granite cracking problem.
I have just had a kitchen remodeled, in older home, built around 1961.
I had Blue Pearl, Granite countertops installed within the last 6
weeks, and I noticed a crack at the sink area last night. It looks
like the thickness of the granite counter top is 2-3 inches. The granite
counter top was finished with a rounded edge. There is a double sink
cut-out, near the end of a straight counter run. Starting right, moving
left, there is a standard counter height, with granite length of maybe
8 ft, before a seam that is on left of the sink. The crack is propagated
in front of the sink, from front of rounded counter top, moves away
from the edge across the top, and continues around the back lip that
is directly in front of the sink cut out. This area of the granite
is the narrowest segment, due to the sink cut-out. The crack seems
mostly hair line, but also has some very small fragments pitted out
along the fault line. It became apparent to me, because when first
using of the sink area, moisture settled into the crack, and highlighted
the contrast defect. I need to know:
-Are these type defects usually delivered in the product?
-Are these type defects commonly resulting from cutting, transporting,
installing, or floor/support unevenness?
-Since this is a new installation, what is the best approach to address
such a problem?
-Should we expect to effectively repair this, or should we have the
contractor cut out the sink area and re-install?
Further to my granite observations, I noticed last night that the
crack in front of the sink was also propagated in imaginary straight
line through the sink area, and continued through the granite strip
behind the sink too. For me, this indicated a non-level installation,
where the bulk weight of the full counter caused the failure and cracking
of the narrower portions around the sink. The main question now is
how much settlement, and therefore crack spreading can I expect, and
whether to have the install gutted and redone?
-Any other advice and counsel, based on your experience will be helpful
and appreciated. Thanks and best regards, Harold, Aug 10, Reply |
| R2:
To
me it sounds like a natural fault/defect in the material. Such defects
are sometimes very difficult to discover in the rough block, and even
when it has been cut and polished. But when it has been shifted around
a bit, like when cut-to-size, transported and installed, the fracture
will emerge. It is a defect and you should ask the supplier to repair
it, or replace it. He would have had second grade material from his
supplier of slabs and should be able to get the cost of the material
back from there. H e might even have noticed the fracture while installing
and hoped that you didn't notice. It costs a lot to cut and fit a
kitchen top. If you can live with the crack, demand a discount. Good
luck! |
| R3:
Harold,
Your kitchen top has broken during transportation or installation,
and should be replaced. It is imperative that You call Your manufacturer
asap in order to avoid giving him the chance to state that You have
broken it Yourself ( which is impossible if the kitchen top has been
installed the right way, that is, without the slightest possibility
to move or “bend”) Sincere regards, Drs R. Nijenhuis |
| Q 6922: I
have been scouring the "findstone" web site and a lot of
the information is very interesting. One question I have is, do supplier
or other vendors in the supply chain use some sort of ratings system
or series of quality checks when purchasing stone from manufacturers?
If so, could you share the system or quality checks they use? Your
help is appreciated. Rgds, Matt, Aug 10, Reply
|
| R2:
Hi
there, There are no general quality checks like for instance in the
metal or plastics business. This is not possible in a business with
100 % natural material like wood or stone. You can have or better
- you must accept slight differences in colour otherwise better take
some painted concrete. In our marble quarries we wet the blocks as
a quality check on cracks and colour before they are shipped out.
This is about the easiest and most secure way to check your material.
For some marble types we also cut the raw edges so the geological
structures can be seen at once. It 's a pity to ship marble blocks
for thousands of miles to find out there are some mistakes on it.
Good luck. Jean-Paul |
| Q
6921: We
have recently had Nova Blue limestone installed on the floors of our
home. The floors were sealed with two coats of Impregnator and so
far, are resisting stains and are easy to clean EXCEPT in the powder
room. A small puddle of water sat on that floor for about an hour
and it has stained the floor and it now appears that water splashes
have stained the floor. I feel certain that the floor in this room
must not have gotten sealed and I'm not sure what to do about the
spots before I have it sealed. Secondly, the installer put impregnator
over the pencil lines on my Nova Blue limestone. I have had many problems
with my tile installers and would prefer not to have them attempt
to get the spots out. Can you give me some advise about dealing with
these water stains? Thank you, Jane, Aug 3, Reply |
| R1:
Hi
there, Limestone has a natural sedimentary origin which means that
this geological product can absorb and return moist. Please don't
do anything special on it and the spots will wear off eventually.
Let nature take its course and after some months it should be ok again.
Regards, JPH-Belgium |
| R2:
There
is a product call poultice--you apply and let set for 24 hours and
then remove--it removes most everything. Make sure when u re-seal
that you use an impreginator product for natural stone
|
Q 6920:
My
tile installer did a terrible job installing white Thassos marble
(12"x12" tiles) in my shower (approximately 30 sq. ft.).
The grout lines are not uniform, the grout lines are not properly
alligned, the design does not flow from one wall to the next (the
'design' is to install the 12"x12" tiles on a 45 degree
diagonal throughout the entire shower), the marble is uneven (there
are "bumps" along the wall), and the joint lines are too
large. When I confront him, his response is
1) to blame it on the white Thassos marble, which he claims is "much
more difficult to install evenly than other tile," and 2) to
blame it on the wall not being even (he says that when the cement
board was installed that this did not allow for a perfect 90 degree
angle from one wall to the adjacent wall). Needless to say there was
an inordinate amount of waste on this job. The builder, the tile installer's
uncle, agrees with the tile installer, as does the granite fabricator
on the job, who happens to be friends with the family. I would appreciate
some objective expert advise. Is white Thassos marble that much more
difficult to install? Should it look that badly? And secondly, should
the walls' angularity have a direct bearing on the quality of tile
installation such that the wall design no longer "flows"?
Attached is a
photo of the job (the center vertical line is where two walls meet).
Please advise. Thanks, Pamela, Aug 2, Reply
|
| R1:
Horrible job!! Rip it out and start with a professional installer
who's references you've checked. Take the first installer to court
for the costs . The pattern and grout joints should wrap through the
corner and if the cement board was uneven and he knew that, he should
have never started until the wall was corrected. G Healer |
R2:
I
am an installer and just finished a white thassos shower in a 1.3
million dollar home. It seems to me that these guys are feeding you
a line. Thassos is no harder to install than any other material ,
that should be obvious. If the installer was not up to the job he
should of told you to find another installer. There are alot of wantobe
tile guys out there putting out inferior product so you really need
to watch out who does your tile work. I set my thassos with no joints
and did the ceiling on a diagonal. This guy cannot even line up his
grout joints so it is no suprise that the shower looks like a "
Hack Job". Sorry but you are right to be unhappy when the cost
of tile work is so high. If I did that bad a " Hack Job"
I would pull it out and try to get it right, tile is for a long long
time and you will be looking at it everyday. Listening to the tile
setters friends and family will not get you the truth , just a bullshit
line.
The Tile Guy |
| R3:
This
is just a poor installation. The shower was not properly laid out.
There is nothing much more to say than just a unexperienced installation. |
R4:
Dear
Pamela I could not help but smile after reading your problem with
your tiler. It appears that you happened to have come across an incompetant
tiler. It seems the only thing he is good at is making excuses. A
half decent tiler would have set out the pattern on the wall before
laying any tiles on the wall to make sure he can achieve the design
that you want. However, looking at the picture your sent he has not
bothered with spending some valuable time to avoid making that simple
mistake. I think, he is one of those people who hopes for the best
and think the client would like it at the end!!
I hope you told him what you thought about his explanation and what
you thought of the workmanship. It is amature. I am no a tiler but
have used some very good tilers who have done some very complex work.
Believe me yours is not a very good one. My advice to you is, if you
have not paid him already, tell him to re-do the job again at his
expence and only pay him when he put it right. Good luck. If you are
in England I can put in touch with some very good tilers. With best
wishes, Abey |
| R5:
It
seems like you have got just a bad installation i can see from the
picture. Is up to the installer to determine where all the cuts will
be, prior to the installation. In regard of the wall not being 90
degrees ....that is a nice joke that i'll pass around my contractors
here in the area. For the bumpy walls, well i should repeat myself
, you just got a bad installer. Regarding the installer family my
reccomandation to you is just make sure that they are not "family"
they are completly wrong. Who is responding to you is : Valentino
Lopergolo with 20 years experience on ceramic/porcellain/marble installation
Valentio |
| R6:
Thanks
for your recent email regarding Thassos Marble. I would just like
to bring to your attention that this product on a hole is alot difficult
to install if your not a proper tiler, what you have got to remember
is that marble is alot thicker than a normal ceramic and if you have
not got the proper tools then you will automatically find it difficult
to install. The fact that your walls were uneven to begin with obiviously
didnt help the man to install the marble but he could have made a
thicker bed adhesive to make them look tidy and all even, regarding
the fact that you have had them install at an angle is not the problem
the problem is that the man who has install the product has not lined
them up correctly as you should have all lines joining, looking at
your picture you have just been unlucky. I must advise you that if
you still have grout covering your tiles then it has not been spread
evenly or not been completed washed off, i think you need to put this
one down as a bad job and move on, hopefully you did not pay the going
rate to have this product fitted. Wellwood |
| R7:
No,
its just a lousy installation job, maybe the price paid for the installation
is inadequate to pay for a decent job. Normally a ceramic tile installer
is NOT COMPETENT enough to work on marble installations. You need
a skilled marble installer, working from a verified SHOP DRAWING OF
DETAILS. Regards, B. Yu |
| R8:
I
have worked natural stone for 33yrs and looking at your supplied photo
of finished work i would comment as follows; this work is not terrible
it's disgraceful, this tiler is not a professional tiler of marble
or granite materials in fact I would go as far to say he's not even
an amateur tiler of ceramic products. Whether the materials are Thassos
or indeed any marble or granite the layout design remains the same
and care should be taken for a semectricial layout as you required
and should have discussed prior to commencement of work. You should
first satisfy yourself that the tradesman has knowledge of the materials
being used and that he or she has the relevant experience of fixing
or fitting same. However you may have had the wool pulled over your
eyes by being given a plausible presentation which may have been confirmed
by your builder etc,. The excuse of the interior corners not being
at a true 90 degree is laughable and is not a feasible reason for
such poor workmanship, makes no difference. And in any case the tiler
should have completed a site survey to examine levels, plumblines
etc., having done this, the tiler should then consult with you if
additional preparation works were necessary to be carried out prior
to commencement of tiling operation. With regards to the amount of
waste materials, the design layout which you specified would include
approx., 20 - 30% waste, it's difficult to say as you have not included
a full sized photo. In general this is a very poor job and should
be rejected out-right. My advise is to consult with a local trade
authority governing this trade and seek a site inspection and report
of this work before contacting a lawyer |
| R9:
A
qualified installer will make Thassos marble look beautiful, if there
are concerns with the the walls, because of the way the concrete board
was installed, or the framing of the walls, a qualified installer
would have addressed these problems before the installation. The picture
you attached, and the problems you have described are not the product
of a qualified installer. KP |
R10:
Dear
Sir / Madam, we strongly believe it wasn't installed by tiles installer
!!!
Generaly stone tile is a stone tile. So, for us there is no any difference
between Thassos and others ( you need choose different cement only
) From this picture we can see that your " installer" hadn'
had a proper tools for cutting tiles. Yes if your walls are not perfectly
done it is more difficult to install tiles but it is not the reason
your design does't flow. Good installer should check everything before
he start his work !!!!! Best Regards |
R11:
Hi Pamela, Remark 1
I know the owner (Lazarides Company at Drama, Greece) and I happen
to know the quarry on their isle of Thassos.
They have the best possible cutting equipment and very high standards
in tolerances which largely exceeds even the USA-standards. Sorry,
but that is a reality. Now if they sold large blocks or slabs that
were cut elsewhere, the Tassos-quarry is not to blame.
Remark 2
If a so called expert comes to install tiles the first operation is
to check the surface condition of the wall and the corresponding angles.
Even a beginning scholar can tell you then whether your requirement
can be met. You can not judge this but he should be able to do this.
Where I live, in construction schools, pupils have to study maths
and geometry before even touching a stone or a brick because that
is general basics. I have no idea what is done in the States.
You were told very cheap excuses for a poor, poor job. And come to
think you chose one of the best possible marble types that are ruined
now as well.
I hope you at least gave it surface treatment with a silicon based
solution as to protect the tiles from soaps etc. Best regards, Jean |
| R12:
Hi
Pamela, To do the level of quality it sounds like your installer suggested
he would perform, he would have needed to float a mortar bed to make
sure everything is flat and square. This always comes with a premium
price, but one can't get the same job from tile board, without a lot
of individual piece fitting. As far as the layout, if it is going
to meet in the corners, the pattern will be offset in the "field"
or the opposite edges. From my experience, white marble is not physically
more difficult to install. It just requires white thinset to adhere
it, because of it's translucency. Best of luck, Jim Gray |
R13:
Hello,
We installed granite tiles(entire house) two months ago in our house.
They decided to start the flooring from my master bedroom. When they
statrted it looked like the tiles were aligned perfectly. They started
the work on one Friday. When I looked the floor on Sunday, the tiles
were uneven. The size of the tiles are 18" x 18" x 12mm
and they are very heavy. I requested my builder to have a look at
the flooring and he was also not happy about the installation. So,
he invited an expert and he said the
floor is not leveled and advised us to level the floor and continue
the work. So,they used self setter and allowed it to dry for 24hrs.
After that eventhough I was not 100% satisfied, they did a better
job after they leveled the floor |
R14:
Hello Pamela, Having seen your photo, and shown it to my tame tiler,
( I supply tiles, he fits them), the only thing to do is rip the lot
out and start over at the tilers expense. The reason for cuts like
the ones in the photo is simply poor preparation and planning on the
part of your tiler. If there was a problem with the wall beforehand,
he should have asked that this be corrected before he started.
If you are getting nowhere with the tiler, inform him in writng that
you are consulting a solicitor and requesting an independant examination
if the job by an expert. He will be forced to replace everything at
his own expense and if fees are involved, to reimburse your expenses.
This is what happens here
in France, in fact, the threat is usually enough to get the problem
sorted out. If I can help further, please do not hesitate to contact
me. Good luck, Allan. |
|
