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Q 3040: I
bought my home 4 years ago, and much of the appeal was due to the attractive
stone exterior. I do not know the type of stone used - I 've always heard
it called 'fieldstone.' I realized when I bought the house that there
was some cracking of the mortar and that I would need to repoint sometime
soon. On closer inspection, though, I find that several of the stone slabs
themselves are soft and crumbling. They are not so much spalling or flaking
as they seem to be rotted, like cardboard, at least on the surface. What
do I need to do? The house was built in 1929, from what I presume to be
natural stone from the area (Philadelphia, PA). The softest stones are
a brownish color, and this seems to be the predominant color. Some of
the larger blocks are darker (gray/black) and Q 3038: I am looking for an expert who is willing to examine a botticino conglomerate marble hearth and give an expert opinion in the county court. The lady lives in Blackburn Lancashire. Any charges must be reasonable. The hearth had a hairline crack when it was first delivered and fitted but she was told that this was a feature of the marble. The crack has now developed into something substantial. Can you help at all? Ansbro, Oct 18. Reply Q 3037: Can you please tell me how to remove or camouflage an acid etched "stain" from my Verde Butterfly granite counter top? I'd greatly appreciate your help. Laurie, Oct 18. ReplyR1:
Dear Laurie: There's no way, I repeat NO WAY that
you have an acid etch on your Verde Butterfly (unless you spilled Hydrofluoric
Acid on it, which I highly doubt you have in your household!). Was that
countertop sealed? If the answer is yes, then that could just be the problem.
If you want me to elaborate more on this particular subject gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. You
can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation
by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled:
"Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you
did! Q 3035: We are about to install ceramic tile floors thru our foyer and kitchen. I had always heard that when installing tile floors or even a tile countertop (be it granite tiles or ceramic) that Dura-roc should always be laid down below the tiles. My tile man who has been in the family business for over 30 years says no! He informed me that Dura-roc eventually crumbles and splits and he only glues and screws down (every 8 inches) ¾ inch plywood over top of my sub-flooring. Is this true – will I have problems if we don’t install Dura-roc or I think I’ve heard it also called greenboard? Thanks for your help. Jill, Oct 18. Reply R1: Dear Jill: I never heard of such a thing as cement board crumbling eventually. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PanelistR2: Jill, DoRock and Greenboard are two different things. Greenboard is drywall that has been treated to be somewhat moisture resistant. You absolutely DO NOT use that as a base for your floor application. DuRock is a cement board made specifically as a backing for tile applications and will not rot, crack or disintegrate. Another option for underlayment would be HardiBacker (my personal favorite) and not that much more than DuRock. You do not want to use mortat & tile directly on plywood - even if it is treated wood. It would be a waste of a good installation if you omit the backer board. Regards, Adriana Q 3034: In an exterior commercial application, I have a solid concrete foundation wall that is three feet tall, four feet wide, and sixty feet long, that acts as a base for a couple of flagpoles. The concrete slab is wrapped on all sides and top with 1-1/4" thick polished buff/gray granite veneer panels. The top is set in mortar, and the sides are hung with stainless steel clips and Hilti anchors. There are 3/8" joints, sealed with a flexible sealant, and weeps at the base. The issue is, a brown, rust looking stain has appeared just after the joint sealant was installed, in the exact location of the anchoring clips. I've had people tell me that there is moisture in the concrete slab behind, and that as that moisture tries to exit, it pulls organics from the concrete, travels along the contact point (clip), and deposits the organics in the granite, leaving a brown rust like stain. I have also been told that the stains will go away in time. I have been monitoring them and notice no change for the past three months. The granite veneer itself, though, it does change in shade with moisture from rain, quickly returns to original dry color in a couple of hours. But the brown staining is always there! In your opinion, will the stain go away, or is it permanent? Is there anything that will remove the staining? Should therehave been a waterproofing sealant put on the concrete prior to granite installation? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Nick Pagani, Oct 18. Reply Q 3033: I am a consultant and i would like to know the different rates for both exporting and importing limestone to DUBAI, Renny, Oct 18. Reply Q 3032: I am having the cemetery plot of my parents covered with pink and white Georgia marble. The monument and coping are of Colorado Marble. This plot is beneath Mable and Oak trees and catches a great variety of leaves, twigs, and nuts. After I have sealed the marble, what can I put on it during the year to protect it from staining and to keep the polished effect? Robert, Oct 18. ReplyR1: Dear Robert: Just about nothing, I'm afraid! If frequency is not a problem with you, you can try with a good-quality car wax once every couple of months or so. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3031: I'm interested in applying a stone and resin flooring to my existing basement and patios Can anyone offer assistance as to where I may purchase the necessary stone (granite, marble, etc.) aggregate (chips) for this application? In addition, can anyone offer any helpful advise. I've seen it installed many times and assisted with an installation, doesn't look difficult. Thanks! Steve, Oct 18. ReplyR1: Dear Steve: Well, usually stone and agglomerate tiles are sold at ... stone retail outlets! Do you want to do it yourself? Buy some publication on the subject and keep your fingers crossed. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3030: Could you give me some more details on the biological cleaner you have for old stone. Size of containers, cost, shipping cost to Belton, Texas, etc. Thall, Oct 18. ReplyR1: Dear Thall: Contact me directly at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 3029: We're removing an existing tub only and replacing with a shower only. Will be completely done in Travertine. I, too, have been told it's high maintenance and to seal it, but after reading up on it, think maybe not. I have 3 other questions:1. What is the best prep method - "Wonderboard" or "floating" the wall ?? 2. I believe my tile guy mentioned 3/16" grout line - I see here looks like "should" be 1/16". Any problem with 3/16ths? 3. I get different opinions on sanded or un-sanded grout. Which should it be ? Also, the bathroom floor (not shower floor) will be done in a porcelean tile which looks like a Travertine - does it matter on that whether it's sanded or un-sanded grout? Thanks so much for your help and thanks a LOT for your web site !!! I've been told so many conflicting things in trying to re-do this bathroom that I'm AFRAID to move on to the rest of the house !!! Think I'd rather MOVE than remodel !!! -Jay, Oct 18. Reply R1:
Dear Jay: Floating
is very good. Wonderboard is just as good an much more practical. 3/16"
grout lines? Fire the guy without any further comment. I ain't kidding
around, I do mean it. NEVER use sanded grout with natural stone, unless
it comes tumble-finished. About the sealing thing, read my answer to the
posting # 3019 below. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left
side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them;
you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist R1: Dear Looking for industry standards in the stone industry?! Dream on!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3027: We are a small quarry and have over one million tons of granite available for sale at Wholesale prices. I would like to know how the granite is "graded" and where I may send samples to be graded., Oct 17. ReplyQ 3026: Hello,
I am having a countertop built for a serpentine wine bar. It is being
constructed out of a layer of 2cm absolute black granite with a 4"
piece of 2cm granite laminated to the underside of the edge, then a full
profile is cut into the edge on all (4) edges. The top is 14' long, so
there is a seam at the 7' mark. My producer is telling me that the laminating
of the edges, then cutting the profile in, is causing the granite to bow
- this is causing a 1/16" difference in the heights of the 2 pieces
at the seam. "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3025: Would
you please give me the straight story on using travertine limestone for
floors. My builder seems to think its the neatest thing since apple pie.
I have heard negative comments concerning durability and maintenance.
Lynda, Oct 17. Reply
1. In which room it's going to be installed, i.e.: you do NOT want polished marble or travertine in a kitchen. 2. How well it's going to be installed (poor installation always equal poor maintenance). 3. What kind of specific intelligence the homeowner is given about proper maintenance of natural stone. In my experience, I'd dare to say that the information made available to end-users of natural stone by dealers and contractors is dismaying to say the least. Most of the time every problem "gets solved" with the application of a penetrating sealer/impregnator, which, in the particular case of polished travertine, will do absolutely nothing but increase the bank account of the manufacturer of the sealer, its dealer and the contractor who will apply it (it's a sealers' manufacturer talking here!) 4. How well the homeowner implements such information, when it's good and suitable. Many a time I gave my comprehensive guidelines to customers to find out, a year later or so, that they are doing not even the half of it! Who knows, maybe the problem is that, so far, I gave them away for free! ... You can get my free (not for much longer) maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3024: I'd really appreciate your guidance. We just purchased a 40yr old home with a greenish slate entry way, it has quite a few stains...any suggestions? Robyn, Oct 17. Reply R1: Dear Robyn: Yes: GET RID OF IT! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PanelistQ 3023: Hello! We would like to put down tiles on the back porch floor. The porch is covered by the roof but it is open on three sides. What type of subfloor should we have? Also, what type of outdoor tiles should we install and how? Thank you! Mike, Oct 17. Reply Q 3022: Hi, I have a terrazo shower pan which altho older, was in very good condition.I recently had to have my tile shower replaced and the tile contractor and carpenter suggested keeping the pan as it was in good condition, stating they would keep it if it was theirs, as a new pan would be very costly. The tile contractor said he could buff it up a bit and make it look real good. He put some kind of a white powder and rubbed it around the shower pan and then let it dry. This was in April 2002. By June 2002, it appeared streaked and with a bluish tone or a chaulky look to it. It is also very uneven, streaky looking and much worse than it ever was before. I called the tile contractor out and he said he had never seen that before. Now I am at a loss as to what to do. It looks terrible! Is there some kind of a sealer or something I can do my self to try to improve the situation. Any help at all would be appreciated. Mary, Oct 17. Reply R1: Dear Mary: I have no idea, either. To try to figure out what happened I should get to know exactly what your tile contractor did to that pan, including -- but not limited to -- the name of the powder he used. Forget about any sealer, they wouldn't do you any good. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3021: We just put a deposit on some Volga Blue granite. THEN we found your site. We did the lemon juice test on our sample and it flunked. Left a dull circle after only 2-3 minutes. Should we get out of the deal? Thanks, Kathleen, Oct 17. ReplyR1: Dear Katheleen: Yes, get out of the deal as fast as you can! That Volga Blue has clearly been "doctored" by the factory (in Ukraina) with application of some topical makeup to ... well, ... make up for the professional deficiency of the local operators. The lemon juice, damaged the makeup, NOT the stone. Under the circumstances you have the legal right to back up of the deal: you are shpping for bare stone, not for shoeshine! Give your fabricator another chance your fabricator by shopping around and find a different supplier with Volga Blue slab that are not "doctored". Volga Blue is one of the best materials that money can buy for a kitchen countertop, but it's extremely difficult to process, even with the sophisticated machinery available in the processing plants. If the slabs come from Italy, then it's going to be a joy to own, but if it comes directly from Ukraina ... well, you already know the story! ... Same machines, different operators! Now, think about this: how about if I hadn't made my little lemon juice test available to the readers of this site? ... :-) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3020: I have a Marble top bar, Is it possible to clean water stains from the marble? Josy, Oct 17. ReplyR1: Dear Josy: There's no such an animal like a "water stain". Water never stained marble, never will! For the time being, let's just say that polished marble for a bar top was a very poor choice. But it's too late for that, is it! Didn't your stone supplier or your interior decorator tell you that?! I mean, it's very old news! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3019: "We are considering using travertine for the floors, walls and INSIDE shower walls (however not the floor) of our new bathroom. I've read everything you've got posted about the advantages/disadvantages of travertine, but I want to make sure I'm completely clear on this: is it correct that we do NOT need to fill or seal the travertine EVEN inside the shower itself? Also, in yours "do's and don'ts" article, does everything you wrote about cleaning and caring for marble apply to travertine as well? Many thanks, Brenda, Oct 17. Reply R1: Dear Brenda: I am against sealing travertine when it's polished to a high gloss. When it has a hone-finish then I indicate as optional the sealing of it in critical areas such as a kitchen or a shower enclosure (staining is still not very probable, but possible). For indoor installations (unless it's the surrounding of an indoor swimming pool) I would NOT leave travertine unfilled, ESPECIALLY inside a shower stall! It would be highly unsanitary. Finally, the last time a checked, travertine is still a natural stone (!); therefore maintenance guidelines for natural stone installation apply to it, too! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PanelistQ 3017: Can you clarify whether this test should be performed on the polished surface or rough (bottom) side of the stone? We are considering using Golden Oak "granite" for our kitchen counter tops. The lemon juice does not do anything to the polished side of our sample but does appear to darken (i.e. create a wet spot) on the rough side. Would you recommend Golden Oak for kitchen counters? Is it necessary to seal this stone? Thanks, Randy, Oct 17. Reply R1: Dear Randy: Very definetly on the polished surface. If the lemon juice didn't do anything on the polished side, then the material is quite appropriate. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3016: I've installed Blue Pearl granite countertops in my kitchen recently and I've been searching for an answer on the best "daily" cleaner for granite. I don't want to buy a commercialized granite cleaner for $25 or more....I'm looking for a simple solution. Perhaps Windex would be ok on a regular basis? Or maybe some water mixed with vinegar? Just looking for something to keep it clean and shiny. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thank you, Jessica , Oct 16. ReplyR1: Dear Jessica: You don't need to spend $25 or more, but, unfortunately, unless you listen to 34-year-experience-Tony-know-it-all (who swears that using water and vinegar is the best thing one can do to stone!? ... Wow!!), there's no answer to your quest. Specialty cleaning agents for natural stone didn't come about out of fancy; they came about ouf of necessity. You buy natural stone, you have to care for it accordingly! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! By the way, I hope you didn't have your Blue Pearl sealed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3015: Could you please tell me if there is a way to make a marble countertop shiny? For instance, can you add a glaze to the surface? We have a sealer, but it will not change the natural look of the tile. When I wet it down, it looks shiny and the tile color comes thru very nicely. That is the look that I am trying to achieve. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Anne, Oct 16. ReplyR1: Dear Anne; Polishing stone is an art and never comes in a bottle. Stone is polished by abrasion and friction, not by applying something onto it and buffing it up. It takes a proven professional, because no two stones polish the same way. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3013: I am thinking of having 'Rocksolid Granite' kitchen benchtops installed. According to their brochure, the product is 'a unique form of granite which comprises approximately 95% natural stone combined with a specially formulated polymer'. The sales assistant advised that some of the benefits compared to pure granite are: .no sealing required .non-porous .cheaper I tested some samples, and they are certainly scratch-resistant. Their kitchen display showroom had the look and feel of solid granite (to me). As I don't know anyone who has used this product, I am wondering if you can enlighten me as to pros and cons. Kerry, Oct 16. ReplyR1: Dear Kerry: No, it's not granite. It's a so called engineered stone, made with quartz and epoxy resin (in the proportions you indicated). In my neck of the woods (NE USA) is not any cheaper than "granite". It's maintenance is indeed easy and it does not need to be sealed, but there are several "granites" that don't need to be sealed, either, and are just as easy to maintain as engineered stone. There are basically no cons about it, besides the fact that it does look ... well, manmade! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3012: Hi I was wondering if Dakota Mahogony Granite Tile would be good for a shower and bathroom floor? Polly,Oct 16. ReplyR1: Dear Polly: Absolutely! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3010: I am an architect working on a residential project using Leuders limestone in a bathroom. The stone slabs are installed in a shower room (10' x 10'). The stone contractor used thick slabs and surface ground them to drain. Presumably, he sealed it. Soon after my clients moved in the slabs began to spall and despite numerous attempts to "fix" it (with epoxy and whatever), the stone continues too spall. Can these slabs be properly sealed at this point to stop spalling? Did we use the wrong material in this installation? Do you know of any Leuders limestone used in similar projects? I will appreciate your reply. Lisa, Oct 16. Reply R1: Hi Lisa, Seems that I've seen this question before. There are at least a dozen distinct stones being quarried from out of the Lueders formation. The limestone is in beds 8 to 20 inches thick interbedded with shale and clay. Some of the quarries have been in existence for a long time, some are relatively new. And, the stone from the different quarries, and the stones from different ledges within a quarry differ in color and character. Some are very compacted fine grained and consistent throughout the block. Others have all sorts of stuff in them due to their depositional history. So identifying a stone as lueders limestone doesn't really tell me much about your particularstone. The ASTM absorption specification (C-97) for "Lueders" is 5.4%, not as high as some limestone, but still pretty darn high for a shower floor. I will say that I have used lueders for many architectural purposes from highly ornate carvings to fountain and pool coping without any spalling problems, so it might just be that your stone is one of the more variegated varieties with softer material filling fossil burrows and worm tubes, it may be a problem with the installation and sealing, or it may just be the way Lueders is going to react in this application. Sorry that I can't be of any more help without actually eyeballing the situation. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist R2: Dear Lisa: You don't give up, huh! ... I do admire your persevarance, but, unfortunately, even in this site you won't find anybody with a "magic solution" to your problem. It's terminal, alas. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3009: I have a problem with my travertine tile installed in my entry way. After installation, grouting, and sealing, my tile has white smeared areas. My travertine is called "Saturnia". I thought it was part of the stone, but after reading this forum, I think it is damage. What do you think?I want to replace my kitchen floor with well-honed travertine. Should I go to the show room and conduct the lemon test before I buy it for my floor? Granite: The granite (Giallo Venencciano) in my kitchen has grout that is cracking. Is that bad installation? I had it installed a year ago. Also, the area where I do most of my kitchen prep work is darker than the area that I don't do prep work. I know that my Granite is porous because when I spill oil it gets really dark. How can I even it all out? Should I put oil all over my granite and let it absorb and then seal it again? Thank you, Maggie, Oct 16. Reply R1: Dear Maggie: The lemon juice test is meant to be used on "granite" only, to determine its suitability as a material for a kitchen countertop or a kitchen floor. Saturnia (which is a fancy way to say crosscut travertine) is a calcite-based stone. The lemon juice test does NOT apply to it. Pefect factory hone-finish does not exist. The machines they use to produce the finish in the factory are the same they use to polish the stone surface. They were never engineered to do hone-finish. The factory operators simply take out the last two rows of grinding elements, and, voila', you have a hone-finish that, if you ask me, makes me feel like puking! In my opinion, with all its much detectable grinding swirl marks (that's what you probaly have in your foyer) it's not fit for sale, plain and simple. Customers who buy Saturnia stone, or any factory hone-finished stone, should budget the services of a good stone refinishing contractor to have their floor honed in place (once installed) with a good-quality honing powder to perfectly even the finish. Your "Giallo Veneziano" wasn't sealed at all, or was sealed very poorly after the installation. It's too late now to come up with a solid soltion. What you suggest is not feasable, because the application of oil all over the countertop is unsanitary to begin with, and, what's more, wouldn't allow any penetrating sealer applied afterwards to bond. You may want to consider using a solution 50/50 of mineral spirit and boiled linseed oil. Although I'm not crazy about organic sealers, among the species boiled linseed oil is the best. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist Q 3008: I am trying to locate information on the following stones, used in the construction/ornamentation of the city hall in Hull, East Yorkshire, U.K. Nigel, Oct 15. ReplyQ 3007: Please send maintenance information for Perlato Royal Agglomerate Marble Tiles. Gail, Oct 15. Reply R1: Dear Gail: You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert PanelistQ 3006: I am an architecture student in the process of my first stone carving project. What are my options with sealing limestone? I have seen a piece that was finished with a method using beeswax. Could you please describe this process to me as well as any other relevant sealing/finishing processes. Is there a book that you recommend? Thank you for your time Laura, Oct 15. Reply R1: Dear Laura, There are all sorts of sealers on the market that will work. The thing you need to understand is that different sealers react with different stones in different ways, so it is vital that you test anything that you use on a scrap piece of stone or the bottom of your carving before applying it to the finished piece to see how the stone takes it. Bees wax is a traditional method, although I haven't used it myself. Personally I don't like the appearance of a piece that has been waxed. Some people warm the piece (low temp oven) before applying the wax, others do not. Laura Meilach has a good basic book out called "contemporary stone carving" that is full of the information you are looking , JVC, Expert PanelistQ 3005: Should
Travertine be sealed? If so, should a cleaner be used prior to sealing?
Can you recommend a good product. Mary, Oct 15. Reply Q 3004: I am studying Interior Design and need all info I can get on natural material - Stone please. Thanx, Ria, Oct 15. Reply Q 3003: I am wondering what is the common acceptance criteria for granite countertop. Our new Black Galaxy countertop came in as 3 pieces. The one at the back corner of the kitchen is much shinier than the other 2 pieces. Should I accept this as variation of the natural stone?On one of the pieces, there is a 1/4 inch chip. What kind of repair should I expected? The granite surface, expecially along the bull nose, is not polished to mirror shine. The sale person said they will put some coating to bring out the shine. Is that acceptable? Chun Cheng , Oct 15. Reply R1:
Dear Chung Cheng:Each and every one of the
problems you listed are NOT acceptable. Two different degree of gloss
is plain pathetic. Applying a coating over the surface of the stone will
NOT polish it. The chip must be repaired with epoxy filler, then ground
flush with the stone surface and then that area has to be re-polished
to match the rest. I doubt very highly that the "Michelangelo"
However I can find very little/no information about this marble on the Net. Does anyway know what grade it falls in (A - D). It seems to be a heavily veined marble, normally off white in colour with black and grey veins. Could anyone suggest other hardwearing marble that keeps their polish which are native to India but have few veins and are available in white as the base colour ? Thanks, Jaidip, India, Oct 15. Reply Q 3001: DOES GRANITE COUNTER TOP NEED TO BE TREATED/SEALED EVERY YEAR OR SO? HOW DOES SILESTINE COMPARE TO GRANITE? Litesout, Oct 15. Reply R1: Dear Litesout: It all depends from the "granite" many a "granite" don't need to be sealed at all; many other do, and again many other are so porous that no sealer can do a perfect job at controlling their absorbency rate. The frequency of the re-sealing (assuming that a particular "granite" needs to be sealed) is determined by the type of sealer used. From once a year to every 20 years, and anything in between. You pick. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAQ 3000: My 3 month old granite countertops have pits. The pits are growing in size and in number. I'm worried that my installer did not use a sealing product. Or, is this normal for granite? If it is, I was never informed and I am extremely disappointed. Please advise. Robin, Oct 15. Reply R1: Dear Robin: Whether your fabricator used a stone sealer or not it has absolutely nothing to do with pitting. Stone sealers are below-surface prtoducts that only clog the pores of the stone to reduce its absorbency rate, period. Granite does not pit the way you describe, but then again, what kind of "granite" do you have?... Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert PanelistQ 2999: Dear sir.... I wonder if you can advise me on the accepted standrds for lime stone in Flextral strength - tests C880 modified.. the tested lime stone is used for external building cladding. the results are 9.1 wet and 10.1 dry....N/mm2 please advise if the results are accepted..Tamer, Oct 15. Reply Q 2998: I am installing a new fireplace (fireplace installed already) with a granite surround. I am not using tiles but having 3 slabs seemed together (top and both side) to create one piece. Currently I have cut to fit and 1/8" shy of being flush with front of fireplace 1/2" plywood to cover the area until my granite is ready.(My stone will lap over 1 inch on top and both sides of the firplace so I figured on 1/8" for epoxy to flush the stone to fireplace)1. I would like to know if it is recommended to use cement backer board or can I use the plywood that is in place? 2nd question:I have been told that green stone absorbs water so do not use a water base glue to hang it, I am installing Marinace Green and think epoxy is the best or am I wrong? Thanks, Robert, Oct 15. Reply R1: Dear Robert: I never like plywood. Personally I prefer cement board (Hey, I'm Italian!). Epoxy is a good idea, but there's also a type of setting material available at the HD, called Stone Setting Adhesive, by the Custom Builder company. It's easier to handle than epoxy and you won't have problems with migration of moisture. At the end of this page side bar click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 2997: Hi, we are in the process of choosing kitchen countertops. I would like your opinion positive/negative regarding the following four materials: Vermont Verde Antique, Blue Green Quartzite, Slate and Crows Foot Schist. We would use our kitchen quite often and have 3 children. Thanks for your help, Lisa, Oct 15. ReplyR1: Dear Lisa: Kinda fancy, huh! ... Verde Antique from Vermont is very good. I never heard about Blue Green, but typically quarzite is extremely porous. Slate is a big NO-NO in my opinion. The other one I never heard of it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA Q 2996: I will be really thankful to you if u help me in finding a solution for my problem. We have got a bungalow to design in pallakad district of kerala. Can you suggest me which flooring would be suitable for such region like kerala keeping in mind the climate of kerala. Please mail me as soon as possible. Thanking you, Krupa,Interior design Student, Oct 15. ReplyQ 2995: Dear sir, we need some information on standards for marble stones re dimensions and quality, best regards, hamid, Oct 15. Reply Q 2994: Hi...I have been reading your site, it is very informative. The builder is supplying the granite, and installing it. The colors I listed (giallo cabaca, and new Venetian gold) are strictly color preferences. (I thought I liked giallo venenziano, until I saw it in person, and big, it was too pink.) Anyway, the granite is for my kitchen countertops, and I want to know if those types of granite are a good choice due to pourousness and if they need to be sealed, (and how many times if so). I'm not sure on the dimensions of the counter and island, but money doesn't really matter. I do not need anyone to supply me the materials, I can order if from my builder. Your site seemed so knowledgeable in what granites were good for counters, so I wanted to make an informed decision prior to ordering. Thank you very much for your help. Katy, Oct 15. ReplyR1: Dear Kathy: The "granites" you mention are in the very porous side (not extremely, just "very"). However, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, then one application of a good-quality stone impregnator formulated thin (solvent-based) will do plenty. If not, it will have to be sealed by the fabricator how many times as it takes. There's no way of telling, because it all depends from the brand of the impregnator used. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA Q 2993: Recently while looking through internet found a material that is water & bacteria resistant for use in a shower... Can't find it again. ?? Any hints Appreciate your time C. Fessler, Oct 15. ReplyQ 2992: i
am studying interior design with rhodec international and i am stuck on
a subject!!! this is where i am asking for your companies help. You are awesome. I have been reading your comments on a website and you are tremendous resource. Your honesty is appreciated. I saw this question asked numerous times but in different ways and it is basically mine also. The answers though did not solve my dilemma. We are placing limestone floors – “pillow topped, antiqued” throughout our home in “roman pattern” and are looking for a rustic –“Tuscany-like” farm house kitchen. There will be a wooden farm kitchen table as centerpiece to our kitchen. Could you recommend a reliable stone that could obtain that rustic look for the top to that above mention kitchen table? We would also like to use the same stone as a countertop. Most of the countertops that I have seen in the Italian books (you have an amazing heritage to be proud of) appear to be using a white marble. Do we take the attitude that if we use calcium silicate stone (trav, marble, limestone) that we are going to get marring – as you so eloquently explain in your answer about the baker’s kitchen or is their an ideal stone out there for our application? I like how you explained that no sealer will prevent the acid etching, because as you have learned from the repeated questions, we - lay people - had hope that such a product did exist. Last question: what do you think about a cement “farm” sink instead of trying to get someone to fabricate us a stone sink – you obviously think soapstone is going to be to beto much of a hassle to maintain. We want low maintenance! Any response will be greatly appreciated. I am getting most of our stone from France – limestone We have local paver companies that will install retail for $3.50/sq ft, Mark, Oct 12. Reply R1:
Dear Mark: Man, can't you
find somebody more expensive?! I wouldn't want no Mickey-Mouse-$3.50-a-foot
contractor installing stone in my house for all the gold in the world!!
I do mean it! A good contractor worth its salt gets at least $5:00 a square
foot for ceramic tiles!! $10.00 per square foot for natural stone is the
low-side of the norm nationwide. Enough of that. Well, I guess that with
your mention of the white Italian marble in uncle Tony's backery you already
answered you own question. If one wants the Mediterranean look but ...
can't accept it, then I have no answers. Q 2989: Do you have experience with countertops made of Verde Merinace "granite"? It seems so unlike other granites - are the green 'filler' parts softer than the stone inclusions? How well does it perform as a kitchen countertop material? Thank you, Teffy, Oct 12. Reply R1: Dear Teffy: What did the stone dealer tell you about it that didn't convince you? You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelistR2: The Verde Marinoche will make a fine counter. It does not require the application of an impregnator usually. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist Q 2988: Hello, We are garden design student with Greenwich University in UK, and we would like to know what machinery is used for the mining, production/manufacture of Limestone. Would you have any info/links? Many thanks and have a nice week-end Pierre Guichard, Oct 12. ReplyR1: Dear Pierre, There are many limestone quarries in the UK. Find one fairly close and arrainge a tour. JVC,Expert Panelist Q 2987: I have a large light colored boulder composed of smaller stones, someone said it is called a conglomerate rock. It has been some rust marks on it that I would like to remove. Can you help me? Jerry, Oct 12. ReplyR1: Dear Jerry: Nope, sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA Q 2986: I have a bronze headstone which sets on a granite base, the water the cemetary uses is very hard water. What would be good to clean the bronze part as it is not shiny as it was before they started watering? Thanks, Rosale, Oct 12. ReplyQ 2985: I'm looking at having eldorado stone vs natural stone layed on my home. Can you tell me the difference in average price per square foot on having them layed? Patricia, Oct 12. Reply R1: Dear Patricia: "Eldorado stone"?? What on earth is that?! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAQ 2984: Could you recommend some granites which are most resistent to staining, absorption, scratching, without minerals that would rust, pit etc.? If they can be in any of the white gray blue black colors with veining is even better. They are to be used in for entry flooras well as the counter, bathroom floor, bath, shower and shower walls. Thank you, Michael, Oct 12. Reply R1: Try Blue Pearl GT. Regards, Steven, Expert PanelistQ 2983: Hi, I've read your response regarding
grinding a floor flat, and that's what needs to be done in my new bathroom.
I'm in New Mexico...as I'm as far from NJ as you'd want to get, I'm guessing
I either have to do this by myself or find a competent contractor. Obviously
the one who put the floor in was unfamiliar with that "level &
flat" This is a gorgeous 800 sq ft bathroom, but the tiles are not
level. The contractor ground them to "lip" them in a few places
which basically succeeded in ruining the finish and calling attention
to the areas. The floor is travertine, with a marble inlay of three 18"
sq pieces of marble surrounded by a border made of 3" X 14"
pieces of Abaco Listell (stone with a stone inlay of colored leaves that
runs all the way through the peices). Q 2982: We are planning to put in a pool. Our architect has recommended shellstone for the patio which is also to enter into the house. Can you give us an idea on how maintenance intensive this product is? And if it is a high maintenance product can you recommend a low maintenace one?We have heard this stone is porous. What does that mean? In terms of maintenance? Bryann, Oct 12. Reply R1: Bryann, This stone is quite soft and absorptive. The problem is if that color is what you want very few stone would fit the bill that would not stain. Take a look at Cream of Marfil that has been brushed finished and honed. It looks good. Lower maintenance not no maintenance,Regards, Steven, Expert PanelistR2: Dear Bryann: Most of the time, the idea of "maintenance" is only in people's mind. If you expect a material -- any material, whether natural stone or not -- to stay like new forever in an outdoor installation, then you're in for some serious sessions with your shrink. Shell stone, is absorbent. So what? So are a whole lot of other stones and different materials. Leave it alone, let it age the way Mother Nature intended, get to appreciate the "lived in" look that it will achieve over years of use and abuse, and by happy. Just clean it the same way you would clean a wood patio, or brick, or concrete, or what-have-you. If you can't accept that, thern stay away from stone altogether. You won't find any other material that will suit you, but at least you won't be blaming stone for anything. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist Q 2981: Our 80-year-old home has a beautiful brick patio. When we added a new garage, part of the patio was taken out and then relaid when the construction was complete. Initially everything looked great, but after a few months, the soil around the relaid bricks has eroded leaving gaps betwen the bricks and an increasingly uneven surface. We will be grateful for suggestions for correcting this and preventing it from reocurring. Thanks, Thomas,Oct 12. ReplyR1: Thomas, Unfortunately without a site review it is all conjecture. Probably the new area was not properly prepared for settling and moisture. It may need to be replaced. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist Q 2980: I'm looking for all information on Crema Marfil marble (geology, petrology, different types, kind of fossils,...) Thank you Frederic, Oct 11. ReplyQ 2979: I am interested in Verde Fire. They are selling it as a granite. Is it suitable for a kitchen? How difficult is it for the fabricator to work? thanks Mary, Oct 11. Reply R1: Dear Mary: Never heard of it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USAR2: Dear Mary, I think it is neat. My people tell me it makes a great looking counter. It is being resined but I think more for pitting and veins than absorption. Moderately difficult to fabricate is how I would classify it. I think you will like it. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist Q 2978: For my kitchen countertops, I am considering Venetian Gold or Giallo Dorado to go with cherry cabinets. Are these true granites and good choices? Also, I have an island 5' X 10' with a cutout for drop-in cook top and sink. Can this be done in 1 piece or is there a chance it will break upon installation? Ena, Oct 11. ReplyR1: Ena, Well no they are not true geologic granites. They are mercantile granites. They both are factory resined and should with some occasional maintenance make nice counters. The New Venetian Gold is somewhat more stable. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist Q 2977: I wish to have some information on "INDIAN ONYX MARBLE". What are the properties and whether it is a good stone for using as a flooring material in my house? Compared to Makarana Marble, Abu green, Udaipur marble or Rajnagar marble etc where does it stand in terms of hardness, long life, and cost? Patwardhan. Oct 11. ReplyQ 2976: We are considering installing Verde Jewel in our kitchen. Will this work well as a countertop? Will it need to be sealed? What will I need to do to prevent problems with stains? Chris, Oct 11. Reply R1: Dear Chris: Never heard of it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USAR2: Chris, I like Verde Jewel. It is an Indian stone that looks great, quite stable, and low absorption. It makes a great counter. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist Q 2975: First, I have a new Brazilian Multicolor slate tile floor in my kitchen, and I want to know what to seal it with, if I should seal it at all. Also, when the tile is grouted, if there is any haze on it, my local tile shop has recommended that I remove that haze with a citrus-based haze remover formulated for natural stone. They also recommend that I follow this haze-removal process by rinsing the tiles with water. I understand from other entries that a citrus-based cleaner could damage the tiles. If that's the case, I am curious about what type of damage could occur.Second, against the arguments of some of the experts who post answers on this site, I have a black honed slate slab countertop, also new, in the kitchen. (I read about the opinions of the experts on this site AFTER having purchased and installed the countertop.) I am not concerned about scratches or imperfections that will invariably appear in the stone over time, and I would rather not seal the stone. I would instead prefer to use linseed oil or baby oil periodically to enhance the stone's patina. Is this the best route, or should I use a topical or impregnating sealer? If I do seal or impregnate, may I then use baby oil periodically as an additional measure? Finally, and also regarding the countertop,
I am under the impression that I could wipe it down as a daily cleaning
process using a slightly damp rag. I assume that process would not cause
the type of etching described on this site. Am I correct in this assumption?
If not, what can I use on a daily basis for upkeep on this surface? Thank
you very much for your help. Dana, Oct
10, Reply This is a comment to Tony's answer: 34 years of "experience" on the stone maintenance business and you still recommend water and vinegar!! ... I made so much money as a stone restoration contractor by fixing the damages made to polished marble by water and vinegar that I used to say that I was selling vinegar by the square foot, not by the gallon!! Fortunately, over the years, slowly but surely, most of the "geniuses" who used to recommend that, realized how ignorant and stupid they were. A few law suits here and there help them to understand that they should keep their mouth shut, too. But after 34 years you're still at that point! ... WOW, you're amazing, man!! If you ask me, there ought to be a law to put self-proclaimed "experts" like yourself in jail and have the keys thrown away! This is a site for experts, pal. You don't belong here. Get permanently lost. Nobody will miss you and your "vast knowledge" on the subject, I promise you. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist R2: Dear Dana: I don't know about this citrus-based product, but if at the store tell you that's formulated for stone, then it should be all right (I guess!). The Brazilian multicor slate does need to be sealed real bad! Don't use linseed oil (too messy and smelly). Unscented baby oil (mineral oil) is your best bet. Black slate won't take any impregnator sealer in. All in all, I feel deeply and sincerely sorry for the choices of stone you made for your kitchen. What to clean them with on a daily basis is the least of your concerns. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAR3:
Dear Dana, Hmm, well lets
see, R1: Flagstone is a generic descriptive term that does not identify the stone lithology. If you can provide us with information pertaining to the actual kind of stone it is, (i.e. sandstone, limestone, slate, marble granite etc etc.), then possibly we can provide you with the information you seek. Not every stone can be polished, not every stone needs sealing. What category Bouquet Canyon Flagstone falls into is a mystery to me. JVC Q 2973: I have an old Victorian house with an exterior doorway lintel upon which a white residue (fine powder) has been forming. I think this residue is forming as a result of many years of rain water running across it from a porch roof leak. Any ideas on what this residue is and how to remove it without harming the stone? I have repaired the roof leak. Betsy, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2972: I
have read your comments on the results of the lemon test. R2:
Dear Phillip: The only remedial
work possible is to professionally re-hone the stone R1: Dear Gary: If the staining agent (oil, in this case) found it's way in, there's got to be a way to get it out. Did you try my guidelines on stain removal that you can find toward the end of this page's side bar? If the acetone poulticing won't work, then your best bet is to get hold of the Miracle Sealant Company people and ask them what to do (you'll find their phone number on the 511 bottle.) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA Q 2970: Hello, i hope you can help me i've looked so many places, and have not had any luck. my daughter's headstone was just placed on 07-06-02. i requested the darkest black granite possible, Now it has water spots that i have not been able to polish out. can you suggest what i should do to maintain the shinyness and still get rid of the water spots? any help is very much appreciated. thank you, barbara, Oct 10, ReplyR1: Dear Barbara: You have to find out from the people who sold the "granite" to you, what kind of "black granite" it was. You also want to know if they ever sealed it. Let me have their answers, then I may be able to help you (hoping that they won't lie to you about the real origin of the stone). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA Q 2969: Hi, I'm attaching 2 jpgs (sorry I'm not a great photographer) in hopes you can tell me what they are. I do know the black tear drop shape is some kind of fossil but that's all. Thanks so much for any help! Sincerely, Cynthia, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2968: I just found the findstone site yesterday. Have been looking at "granite" for 2 years. Am supposed to meet with kitchen designer tomorrow to finalize plans. After finding your site, called him and told him to hold off on countertop plans. I had four choices in mind. Ubatuba, Black Galaxy, Emerald Pearl, and Verde Fontaine. Like Ubatuba and Black Galaxy really well. They go with the stainless/natural look of my kitchen. That is truly not important to me though. I cook alot, everyday, and usually spend all day Sunday cooking and baking. I heard the usual-seal, no need to seal, stains, scratches, dirty, etc., and thought I had finally come to a decision. Could you please tell me which one you would recommend for someone who loves to cook, and lives in the kitchen-mine really gets a workout, and I want the least fussy, most durable thing I can get? Any help would be appreciated. You sound so professional and knowledgable when I read your comments and replies. Thank You, Crystal, Oct 10, Reply R1: Dear Crystal: My wife and I cook like maniacs and use our countertop as a food handling surface all the time! We have a Black Galaxy contertop for 6 years already. Never sealed it. Still brand new. We could have been just as happy with Ubatuba and Emeral Pearl. Verde Fontain is good, too, but not as excellent as the other three materials you listed. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA R2: Dear
Crystal, I am not an expert, rather, I am a very recent purchaser - 2
weeks ago. We chose Ubatuba because of the look with the inclusions and
the colours. We loved the look. We are seeing some very thin cracks in
the surface and are concerned and have asked for advice. Look for yellowed
pieces - advice offered to us is that this is granite that has been left
out in the sun and been ultraviolet damaged (??). Also, we have a chip
right in the middle of our bench, approx 10mm by 7 mm by about 2mm deep.
It is almost as if it has flaked off. This seems to be an uncommon problem
with Ubatuba. We cook a lot too. I cook meals, my wife cooks pastries
and cakes etc. Q 2967: I think we have a big problem......... Our builder had the wrong faucet configuration (4 inch centerset) drilled into our cultured marble vanities. We have widespread faucets being delivered Tuesday. Is there any way to fix it without it looking tacky or are we gonna have to replace the entire vanity top? Builder swears we told him we were getting faucets that would use the standard 4 inch centerset drilling. Unfortunately, now it's a big debate. Any information you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks! Helen,Oklahoma, Oct 10, Reply R1: I have a suggestion as to solve your dilemma. Have your marble manfct. make a nicely designed piece to be installed over top of where your sink and faucets will be installed. This will give you an added look of depth and design. Oh be sure to make the pieces about 3/8" thick. TonyR2: Dear Helen: What has this got to do with the price of toothpaste in Nicaragua?! Cultured marble is plastic material. Go back to the people who sold it to you; they should be experts in plastic. We are not. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA R3: Helen, You have two choices: Keep the vanities and get new faucets or - Keep the faucets and replace the vanities. Pick whichever choice best suits your situation. There is no way you (or any professional, no matter how skilled or experienced) are going to "fix" drilled holes in natural stone so that you will not know they were there. Good luck, AdrianaQ 2966: Kindly advise availability of grinding stone for sandalwood for use in temples, Senthilnathan, Oct 10, Reply Q 2964: I´d like to know american companies wich produce wet sand blasting equipmentes (5 to 120 psi. I'll use to restoration and grafitte removal on the granit. marbles and others stones as in industrial sandblasting. Thanks. Edmundo, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2963: I am a project engineer, working in Oman, I am supose to select a good type of cladding stone. So I want your advice for selecting the stone(sandstone & limestone), what are the tests required, and how to compere the good stone from the other. If you wish to guide me please to send me the stages of selecting, fixing, and maintening, with list of stone in the world and locations. Khalid, Oct 10, Reply R1: Dear Khalid: Do you work for free? ... I dind't think so! Well, inasmuch as it may come as a shock to you, neither do I! :-) I do offer consultation services. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAQ 2962: We have a sandstone fronted house where the blocks are rough cut(ie,not smooth and flat like bricks). A previous owner has cut some of the blocks to affix a piece of timber on which a pergola was erected. What can we do to repair the sandstone that has been cut, to return it to the original appearance. Is there a type of sandstone mortar that we can use to trowel on and shape the blocks to match the surrounding blocks? Jenny, AUSTRALIA Oct 10, Reply Q 2961: Im working in one of the landscaping company here in the Philippines. Im trying to find a metholated spirit that we need to use in our project. We do GFRC.Can you give me the list of product that we can use in concrete under metholated? Arun, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2960: Can you tell me where to order Krud Cutter from. Do you think it would cut through kerosene smoke that has stained our kitchen walls? Jean, Oct 10, Reply R1: Jean, Try at your local Home Depot (and lately I have been seeing it at Lowe's too) Regards, AdrianaQ 2959: We are remodeling our outdoor swimming pool and considering travertine for the coping. I love the look, but should I be concerned about how well travertine will hold up against the outdoor elements or brief exposures to pool chemicals? In this situation do you recommend using a sealant? John, Oct 10, Reply Q 2958: email me relevant information about hand shaping marble & granite. Thanks Rd, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2957: We have just installed slate tile on our patio in Arizona, should some kind of sealer be applied. We plan to use it as a eating area., Salzach, Oct 10, Reply R1: Dear Salzach: My answer to the posting 2952 below will fit your bill, too. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USAQ 2956: I bought a piece of stone called Brazilian Jet, for carving. I am looking for any information on it. It is slightly harder than soapstone and pipestone. It is very black and not as shiny as coal. I would like to carve it, but cannot find any reference to the stone, Sam, Oct 10, Reply Q 2955: I am seeking information on stone paving to be featured in an outdoor concrete footpath in a busy commercial area of central-west NSW, Australia. There are many natural colourful stones in this area, & consultant landscape architects have recommended either the local slate or local sandstone. Criteria for selection would include life-cycle cost, slip-resistance when wet, resistance to staining (from hewing gum, cafeterias, vandalism), durability, etc. Does anyone have experience in these stones, or suggest methods to compare & choose between them? Mal, Australia, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2954: We are currently trying to attempt to lay slate on our stair way inside our home. We have a split entry home and the landing is already slate so we would like to continue it on the stairs also. Currently there is plywood on the surface which comes in contact with oak end caps where the railings are. So we will be placing the slate on the plywood and our thought was to have oak molding to cover where the slate meets from the risers to the treads to cover the rough edges. Any tricks of the trade before we begin? We have never done this before and would like to try doing the installation. Please Help?, Nrpelet, Oct 10, Reply Q 2953: My name is Derolan. I have a science assignment to do and it’s about the chemical and physical properties of ash, mud and lava at Mt Ruapehu, and the instruments used to measure those properties. I would be very thankful if you could help me. All I need to know are the chemical & physical properties of ash, mud and lava at Mt Ruapehu and what instruments are used to measure these properties. Thanks you kindly, Derolan, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2952: We have a cleft slate floor that was recently installed in the entry way of our home. We are looking for and effective sealant...and have been told that mineral or baby oil would suffice as a sealant. Is this true and what are the advantages or disadvantages of this method as compared to other sealants. We would appreciatre any suggestions or recommendations. Thank you, Clay, Oct 10, Reply R1: Dear Clay: First, what kind of staining agensts you're envisioning to spill on your floor to consider a sealing job? Second, if it's domestic (from New England) or Italian slate, it does not need to be sealed (it won't take any sealer in). Third, Baby oil (which is mineral oil with some fragrance) will evaporate and seal nothing. It will only temporarily darken the stone. An impregnator/sealer for stone will permanently seal the stone (if it can take any of it in) without altering its original color (with a few exceptions). If you want to darken your stone in a permanent way, then a good-quality stone color enhancer is "your man". You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USAQ 2951 a: Our new kitchen countertops are slabs of Esmerelda granite with a simple bullnosed edge. The stone has some hairline brownish veins in it. We just noticed that it has cracked along one of these veins. The crack is about nine inches long and carries through the edge of the slab, but it is very narrow--you could slip a piece of paper in there or the edge of your fingernail, but nothing much wider. We talked to the installer, and he said they would probably just fill it with epoxy. The problem is that I work at home and for health reasons, I cannot be around ANY chemical fumes right now, so having the countertop repaired would be extremely inconvenient. I am wondering (1) if a crack that narrow needs to be filled; (2) is it okay to wait (up to a year) to fill it; (3) is there anything non-toxic that we could use instead of epoxy, such as beeswax or one of the non-toxic super adhesives? My husband thinks that the crack may lengthen and we should let it finish moving before we attempt any repair. I also noticed that it appears one or two tiny chips of quartz may have come off as the crack opened, and I am wondering if the crack will release bits of stone or dust? Thanks very much. EGD, Oct 10, Reply R1: Have your installer fill and polish the crack with super glue. this procedure has been tried and trued over time by myself. Thirty four years exp. in this trade as a self imployed installer, fabrication, design and service. TonyR2: Dear EDG: (1) Yes. (2) I don't know. It's chancy. (3) Nothing that I know of. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA Q 2951: I am a a land surveyor in central Pennsylvania. I frequently come across land to be developed that has stone houses, barns, outbuildings, etc. I am not a salesperson, but I know that there may be an interest in saving these type buildings, moving them to new locations for whatever reasons. I only want to act as a go-between (with a fee of course) between the land developers and the people interested in the buildings. Two years ago I worked for a client that had an old mill. The only thing left was thefoundation, but there was plenty of stone walls. They were mostly limestone which is predominant in our area. This is the type of stone that I and seeking buyers for. I do not have the time, money, or abilities to market the stone which you desire. Unfortunately, I am not a salesman. If I was, I would be in contact with you. Good luck on your ventures. If your clients inquire about such structures, I would like to meet with them.Thanks, Chuck Rush. Oct 10, Reply Q 2950: We
just purchased a house in France that was built in the early to mid 1800s.
The stone was covered by a wispy looking concrete facade in the 1960s.
Although the few glimpses of the stone underneath look promising, I don't
feel that I have enough information Q 2949: Where can I find a Market for industrial uses for Marble. Doug, Oct 10, Reply Q 2948: Please forward me data on flurocarbon sealers -pricing-safety-etc.Thanks. Steve, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2947: First, this is an awesome site, wish I had found it BEFORE I listened to the folks at Home Depot! I’m in the middle of a project where I am putting slate on top of a cement porch. I have used sanded grout and it is ALL OVER the slate. I was told that I could “simply wipe the grout off” after waiting for ~20 minutes. This was DEFINITELY NOT the case! (and no, I didn’t seal the slate first) What can I use to get the grout off of the slate? In most places, the Slate has a haze. In addition, once I get the haze and excess grout off, what should I do for maintenance of the slate? Thanks, Denny, Oct 10, Reply R1: Dear Denny: I really don't know. To clean grout residue the way you describe it, tile people use some sort of acid cleaner, but most slate don't agree with acids and get badly damaged by them. I'd suggest you to go back to the place where you bought the slate. They've got your money, they should be able to help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAQ 2946: I a m looking for Oppdal qaurtize, I like his qualities, especially that you can break a panel in a very straigt way, is there any other stone with this quality with a darker and silverish grey color. Thank you in advance, Taina, Oct 10, Reply Q 2945: Please help - last evening I dropped a bottle of hot sauce on my Italian ceramic tile (red) in my kitchen. Even though we cleaned it up immediately after dropping the bottle, it bleached the tile. Do you have any suggestions on how to restore my tile to its original color? Please let me know. Thank you. Deborah, Oct 10, ReplyR1: Dear Deborah: I'm a stone man and my familiarity with ceramic tiles leaves a lot to be desired! I believe, however, that the only way to fix your problem is too replace the damaged tiles. I hope I'm wrong! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist , USA Q 2944: I scratched my cultured marble black and white table top with the scubby side of a sponge. Very stupid. I was trying to remove mysterious wax like spots that seem to self generate. Anyway, is there any way I can get the shine back in to the areas that I scratched?, Oct 10, ReplyR1: You should get back to the dealer who sold the plastic stuff (cultured marble) to you. This site is about stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA Q 2943: We are restoring a home that was built in 1820. The foundation and basement walls are huge sandstone blocks. The old limestone mix covering on the walls needs repaired/replaced. We want to keep the look “in period” and are not sure where to find the right stuff to clean and repair. We want to know if there is a product out there that is similar to the old limestone mix that they put on the sandstone walls in the 1800s or if there is something better. Oct 10, ReplyQ 2942: I am interested in puting up a feasibilty study for quarry site in Nigeria. I am in search of the basic requirements for setting up a quarry site as well as the different stages of work involved in the setting up of the quarry. In short an ABC of setting up of quarry in the basement complex region. Thanks. Floami, Oct 10, Reply Q 2941: Is any hot exposure marble sealer? My client complain because the discolor in the tub. We know is due because high temperature about 90 , Oct 10, ReplyQ 2940: We want information on antique stones used inthe 17th and 18th adn 19th centuries in italy nad europe generally, Simon, Oct 10, Reply Q 2939: I found your website very helpful to do some research about stone, especially marbles. I have been seriously considering representing an Indian company in the US market (as a sales agent or distributor). The company manufacturers marble sculptures & tiles in India and I wanted to see if there was any information available for the potential of this market in the US. Any advise you can give pertaining to some market reasearch and if this is something worthwhile getting into will be appreciated. Thanks, BJ, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2938: Dear
sir, Please let me know : Q 2936: My father collects, cuts and polishes rocks as a hobby. He has recently found a product called "Baked Sandstone" in New Mexico. While I am aware that this is a natural ocourance, aparently the dealer he bought it from fired the stone in an oven or kiln. How long would an 8-12 inch square sandstone need to be fired and at what temprature to sufficiently harden it? Also, after the firing process, what other stone would the hardness level be similar to? Any help you can give would be of great assistance. Thanks, Steven, Expert Panelist, Oct 10, Reply Q 2935: I have found your website to be very informative and helpful (thank you!), but I can't find the answer to a question I have. I had factory honed and filled travertine in my last house (and loved it) and am putting travertine (about 1000 sq. ft.) in my new home, in the kitchen, baths, entry hall, etc. I am getting conflicting advice from different retailers. One says that I should get filled travertine, that the factory fill is much stronger. The other says I should purchase unfilled travertine, that the grout fill is much stronger, and it looks better because it matches better. What do you think I should do?, Leo, Oct 10, ReplyR1: Leo, Get a sample each of the filled and unfilled material. Take the unfilled material to the tile setter and ask him to fill it with grout. Put the pieces next to each other and decide on the look you prefer. Remember - you are going to be the one living in your house and you should be happy with what your floor will look like. As for which fill is better - in my humble opinion: it does not make a difference. A friendly piece of advice:- If your tile setter uses sanded grout with the travertine, get another one in a hurry. Regards, Adriana. R2: Dear Leo: The factory filler is stronger. In fact, when I have to grind a travertine floor, after the first two cuts a refill the holes with factory filler (available at a few stone supplier places). You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USAQ 2934: Looking for information on garnite stone, where it could be found, age and details on production and sale of? Sarah, Oct 10, Reply Q 2933:I have enough quartzite patio grade for about 200 sq ft. I live in a clay soil condition. What do I need to do to prepare the soil? What type of underlayment should I use? I would like to use mortar in the joints and make the surface as flush as possible. Is there a trick to laying down mortar in a patio type surface using quartzite, and what type of mortar and at what consistency? If I float this, will it crack? and if I don't will it crack? Jelza, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2932: We are just installing reclaimed terracotta tiles in a covered outdoor area. We would like them to look even more antique, in other words be darker and have a sheen, as though they had been waxed "forever", can you help? Also what do I use to cleaned Honed granite kitchen countertops ? Thanks ever so much., Miachel, Oct 10, Reply Q 2931: I like to asked you a question on negro marquina . after polishing from 300 to finish with 1200 the crystalised finish is not there please consider my plight and if things were not bad enough I have failed desparately in restoring in Irish Limestone floor, very high in Calcite. Riz, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2930: Our 1820's farmhouse includes a slate fireplace (oringinally used for coal) in the dining room and 10 x 10 marble floor in the vestibule at the front door. The slate is currently covered with mutliple layers of paint. Any suggestions on the proper way to remove the paint? Any helpful hints on how to bring out the natural look? What should we stay away from using? On the vestibule, I will hire a contractor to refinish the floor, but should the grout be applied before or after the floor is refinshed? Thanks. Mike, Boston. Oct 10, Reply Q 2929: After returning from a trip to Bali, I would like to tile my South Florida pool with the beautiful natural stone tiles commonly used there. I visited many resorts with beautiful tiled pools with a grey/green color range. Is this a slate, quartzite, ???? I was told it was a local stone.... any chance of finding a similar stone in the U.S.? Are they maintenance-free or a maintenance nightmare? Max, Oct 10, ReplyQ 2928: Craftsman of the marble, available to work wherever as free lancer. I offer my skill, twenty ye | |||||||||
