Care and Restoration

A 1081: Care: I would like information on how to clean and seal a slab of blue limestone which is to be used as a hearth in front of my fireplace. Jennifer, USA, August 30, Reply

R1: Dear Jennifer: There are specific products such as impregnator-type sealers (below surface) that have the task to clog the pores of the stone to dramatically reduce its absorbency. Once properly applied, it will not be visible, nor will it change the color of the stone. If you want to make your stone look darker (like when it's wet), then there are other types of impregnator-sealers that are color enhancers, too. There are also topical finishes (Urethane-like) that are applied to give the stone a shiny or satin look. Unless you plan not to use your fireplace, my advice is against these latter types of product. They scratch easily and can't be spot restored. Every time you have to strip them completely, and that represents a nasty chemical chore that, in the long run, could even have unwelcome side effects on the stone itself. For routine cleaning there are products specifically designed to deal with the delicate chemistry of natural stone. Since I want to restrain myself to advertise specific products, if you want more precise information, don't hesitate contacting me directly. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist, Contact 

A 1078: Care: We are going to be putting honed black granite in our remodeled kitchen.  On your site you advised using a penetrating sealer that's a color enhancer.  Is there a brand or product name we should look for? Is this something that you reapply every year? Thanks for your help! Marks, USA, August 28, Reply

R1: Dear Marks: This site has an educational purpose and it's not meant to advertise specific products. I'm sure that you can appreciate that. On the other hand, I can understand the need of consumers for more precise answers. It doesn't help much, does it, to read about a particular type of product without a precise indication of a recommended brand, and where to get it! Do contact me, and I will gladly help you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1077: Care: Great website! Wish I had found it sooner. We just had granite counters installed. They are a lighter stone (were told it was granite), Sivakashi Pink. I noticed that they temporarily water spot around the faucet and am worried about long-term spotting from my soap dispenser or food (grease, berries). The installers wiped a coat of sealant on & off again quickly. Is there any cause for concern? Should I go back & reseal the counters? What can I expect regarding water spotting and staining, particularly with grease, once the counter is well sealed? Nancy, USA, August 27. Reply

R1: OK, here's the story. Your "granite" (whatever it is. I suspect it's a metamorphic sandstone, but I am sure that your fabricator will show you an invoice that "prove" it's granite!...) is an extremely absorbent material. The way you describe your problem is that it was not sealed properly. Not that it matters much, mind you. Because, even if it had been sealed properly you will always have problems -- and a lot of them -- with the extreme absorbency of the stone. Certainly, your faucet and soap dispenser will be the first one to show. But, eventually, just about anything else will do! I suggest you to use your kitchen as a showplace. And, by the way, you should also thank your fabricator for having sampled that beautiful stone and fabricated it for you. It sounds to me like he sure knows what is doing! But don't worry too much: It's only money! Sorry! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1076: Care: Please can you offer advice for specifying the correct sealant to use on honed 'Panna' Limestone floor tiles in bathroom areas? It is very urgent. Please could you respond as soon as possible, thank-you! Alexzander, August 25, USA. Reply

R1: If I were able to specify the "right" sealer for each and every stone available on the marketplace (and counting!), somebody would go as far as calling me GOD! Not one single sealer is universally good on any stone, including my own. In the case of this "Panna" limestone (by the way, "Panna" is Italian for cream), I have not the slightest clue. Never heard of it before. Maybe I know that stone very well, but certainly not under that name. The sealer that we make, is an impregnator for stone, it is a very good product (to the best of my knowledge is the only one that comes with a 20-year warranty), and covers a vast range of stones. All types of limestone we've tested it on so far were pretty much sealed.  All I can say to you is
that it represents a good bet. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1062: Care: My daughter recently moved into new house that have grayish/brown granite countertops in kitchen. Not knowing and not being told about need to seal, the kitchen island countertop has been spattered with grease from a griddle. What can be done with this granite top? Larry, USA, Aug 7. Reply

R1: Dear Larry: The first thing to do is to remove the oily stains from your daughter's granite. To do that you need to make a so-called "poultice" (Relax, it's easy!). A "poultice" is meant to reabsorb the stain from inside the stone out, into something more absorbent than the stone itself. It is composed by two components: A) A chemical that will interact with the type of stain at hand (in this case, grease).  B) An absorbing medium to reabsorb the stain out of the stone. There are several absorbing media available, from cotton balls, to paper-towel (I'm partial to "Bounty"), to talc (such as baby powder), to diatomaceous earth (the white stuff used in pools' filters). They are all good.
I experimented with several chemicals to remove grease stains and concluded that, among those more readily available, Acetone available at any hardware store, paint department) is the most effective.
As far as the absorbent medium is concerned, either talc or paper-towel will do just fine. If you choose talc, mix it with the acetone to make a paste a little less consistent than peanut butter. If you choose paper-towel, make like a "pillow" (7 or 8 fold) a little wider than the stain, then soak it with acetone. In the case of the talc, apply the paste with a putty knife. (DO NOT use a plastic spatula. The acetone will melt it!) Over the stain (approx. 1/2" wider that the stain itself) leaving it a good 1/4" thick or better. In the case of the paper-towel, just put the soaked "pillow" over the stain.
In either case, cover the "poultice" with plastic wrap and tape it down (at this stage you don't want the acetone to evaporate. You want it to go down inside the stone to meet with staining agent and attack it). Leave it there for a day or so then remove the plastic wrap. Next, let the "poultice" dry completely (one hour or so) DO NOT peak. This is the most delicate stage: By removing the plastic you will allow the acetone (hopefully together with the staining agent) to be reabsorbed by either the talc, or the paper-towel. When completely dry, remove the poultice and, in most cases, you will see that the stain is gone. If not, repeat the procedure step by step. With some stubborn and old grease stains you may have to do it a few times. Once the stains are removed you will have a good-quality sealer for stone (Impregnator) applied professionally to your countertop. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact.

A 1060: Care: We had travertine countertops put in 1998. We had them sealed. However they now appear blotchy from certain angles. Do they need to be resealed and if so what would you recommend? Thanking you for your input in advance. Linda, USA, Aug 5. Reply
R1: Dear Linda: You need to reseal your travertine just as much as you needed to have it sealed the first time, that is, just as much as you need a hole in your head! Travertine (like any other calcite-based stone) is the wrong choice as a material for a kitchen countertop, period. Its porosity is not really an issue, its chemical make-up is. You can control a certain degree of porosity (with a stone sealer, also dubbed "impregnator"); you cannot control the chemical make-up of natural stone. Those blotches that you see are etch marks (surface damages, that is, not stains). They can be fixed professionally, but they can't be prevented. Read more about this subject on my answer to A 1061. Mankind should master Nature by understanding, not by force. Tell that to whoever specified travertine for your kitchen countertop, and whoever else went along with that "brilliant" idea. I'm still upset. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact.

A 1057: Care: I'm tired of replacing and/or cleaning my carpet which was used to cover the natural stone on the stairs of our home. After removing the carpet however, the stone is in bad shape. There are holes from the nails, brown discoloration which has seeped in from the glue and other spots from the carpet which has been in place for many years. How can I clean and refurbish these natural stone stairs. The home was built in the early 1930s and it is beige in color. Carol, USA, July 30. Reply

R1: You don't mention the kind of stone that was used, and the cleaning treatments do vary depending on the stone. Please stay away from any cleaning solutions that are acid based. If the stone is limestone, or marble, acid will have a very negative effect on the stone.  If the stains are surface stains, the stone can probably be refinished (i.e. sanded). Sometimes bleach will help. Sanding will also help with the nail holes, although some will probably need to be filled with a stone patch. Stains that penetrate the stone can often be lifted by using a poultice. The composition again varies depending on the stain.  Please check with your local tile store, or with a local fabricator to determine what the best course of action should be. JVC, USA. Contact 

A 1055: Care:  I am renovating a 1930 log cabin built on the pre-cambrian shield (Manitoba, Canada) It has a huge 10 foot fireplace constructed of local stone, much of which I believe is granite. The stones look great when wet, and I would like to enhance the colour of the stones...Any suggestions? Thank you in advance. J Micheal, Canada, July 24. Reply

R1: There are lots of colors enhancing sealers in the market. Check with your local tile store or building supply to see what is available in your area. JVC, USA. Contact

A 1038: Care: I have black absolute granite countertops in my kitchen. The counters stain when they come into contact with acidic juice such as tomato or citris. The counters were sealed a second time and the staining continues to occur. What is the cause. Thank you. Pal, USA, July 17. Reply 

R3: Dear Steve: Black absolute is not exactly the densest, but is very dense, all right. Butter and milk, being grease substances may stain the stone to a certain extent, but won't go very deep. A good cleaning with water and dish detergent should do (of course, if they'd use our product, it would be even better. For me, at least!). Seems to me, however, that your customers are not exactly Mr. and Mrs. Clean. They have to let the butter and milk sit a very looooong time before they start staining! If they'd clean the surface of the top right after breakfast I believe they wouldn't have any problem. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

This seems to be close to the problem we are having. We have had no similar problems with any other granite(sic) so could you mail me your recommendations as to treatment (or not). The main culprits are milk and butter, and our customers don't or wont understand that nero being the densest of materials is the likeliest to stain. Any help appreciated. Steve, UK, July 21. Reply 

R2: Firstly sealers do not offer a complete seal from stains - it just helps resist stains.  Secondly, the acidic nature of the staining agents is an unusual culprit with granite (especially those like absolute black).  The sealer may be reacting with these acidic liquids and show up as stains due to the breakdown of the sealer.  Try putting a drop of water on your granite and see how quickly it soaks in. This will show you the effectiveness of the sealer. Black granites also have a tendency to show up imperfections such as trafficking paths (tracking) when the polish gets worn and "tide" marks from dirty water.  Not much you can do about it except be diligent with spills and don't expect miracles from sealers. Regards, Jim, Australia, Expert Panelist. Contact

R1: Dear Pal: The cause is probably the sealer. I'm not saying that what was used on your counter -- and twice! -- is a bad sealer (I don't even know which one it is, nor I care to know!); What I'm saying is that sealing black absolute is a bad idea, even if you use the sealer that my company  manufactures. Black absolute granite is a basaltic rock, partly metamorphic, of an igneous origination, of the plutonic type (high pressure and high temperature). All this mumbo-jumbo is the get to understand that black absolute (that from a petrographic classification is not a granite -- despite what the invoice of the dealer says) is an extremely dense rock and doesn't absorb much. Not even the sealer. Sealers for stone (impregnators) are designed to be below surface sealers and none of it is supposed to remain on the surface of the stone to be sealed.
Of course, for a sealer to go below, it has be absorbed by the stone, so that it can go in and clog its pores. It's not the case, here! The sealer won't go in, a film of it will remain on the surface and ... it will get damaged by acidic substances such as those you've been describing. In other words, the damage does not occur to the stone (black absolute, being a silicate rock, does not etch, unless one uses hydrochloric acid), it rather occurs to the stupid sealer that has no business being there to begin with, and notwithstanding what all the salesmen out there will try to tell you. They are the same salesman who "trained" (brainwashed, better defines it) the "professionals" who made your countertop and stubbornly keep sealing it, without having a clue about the real problem. (I'm sorry, I do have a huge problem dealing with mediocrity!). How to solve your problem? Very simple: have the darn sealer completely removed and enjoy your otherwise "bullet proof" black absolute granite for the rest of your life, the way Mother Nature intended. The best sure way to remove completely the sealer is to use a right angle polisher / grinder with a 7" diameter pad-holder, a white nylon pad to fit it, and some oxalic acid (it's a white powder and can be found at any good hardware store). You will also need a spray bottle with some tap water. Sprinkle some oxalic acid over an area to fit under the 7" diameter pad, spray a mist of water, over, say 4 or 5 square feet, put your polisher on top of the powder, rub it back and forth a few times (without pulling the trigger) to form some sort of paste (oxalic acid with the water), then apply a certain amount of pressure, pull the trigger and buff the area that you've targeted (4 or 5 square feet), until it becomes dry and shiny. Repeat until you've treated the whole counter. Better yet, have the "genius" who applied the sealer twice do the work for free. After all, he the one who created the problem. Good luck. Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact 

A 1032: Care: I need help with maintaining granite kitchen top. The installer informed me that a sealer was put on it before installation and at my home at the time of installation. I am not sure but it seems to me that there are some spots that grey and some that darken. Color of granite is primarily brown. How can I prevent further discoloration? Smeuc, USA, July 12. Reply

R1: Dear Smeuc: I need more precise information. What do you mean when you say "there are some spot that grey and some that darken."? I really don't understand. Where these stains there already, or did they occur after you started using the counter? The fact that the color of the granite is primarily brown, tells me absolutely nothing. Knowing the name of it could help. Let me know, then, maybe, I will be able to help you. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1030: Care: I bought granite tiles for kitchen counters and was sanding it for bull nosing that's why I was asking about how to polish it myself, did get a good color with the sanding. Next question is, I see some dents do I use the sealer for it will that help cause I saw it absorb cooking oil, which splattered while cooking. What to do to maintain and care for granite tiles? Thank you. Shahida, USA, July 11. Reply

Q 1028: Care: I have put ceramic tiles for the flooring. In some places there are some stains which do not go by cleaning with ordinary water. Some people suggests me to use acid solution / acid powder which are available freely in the market. I am hesitant to do since it may spoil the surface. Pls advise me the best way to remove the stains & also for regular maintenance. Thanks. Hariprasad, India. July 4 reply

R1: Try using white vinegar. Depending on the result you can use vinegar to remove stains. Alternatively, you can also use Hydrogen Peroxide. Soak a muslin cloth with Hydrogen Peroxide and dab it on the area where the tiles are stained. But make sure to experiment in a sample area.  BM, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1027: Care: I have been told of a marble cleaner, "Natural" is the label and I am unable to locate the product here in the Seattle area. Do you know who makes it and I will contact the Company or do you know of a distribution point out this way and I will call and order it. Sultan, USA. June 29 reply
R1: Now let's understand the definition of "marble cleaner". We're all brainwashed! We see a label on a cleaning product that says "glass cleaner" and we assume that such product is designed to clean glass. Wrong. A cleaner -- any cleaner -- is formulated to interact with a certain type(s) of soil, no matter on which surface it (they) are sitting. A glass cleaner is designed to clean light soil such as finger-prints, dried-on dust and water-spots. Needless to say, if you have such type of soil on, say, a "Formica" surface, the glass cleaner will perform just fine. It is not that the "glass cleaner" has a brain and goes: "Hey, that ain't glass, it's Formica ... Whadda ya think I'm stupid?! I ain't cleaning it!..." On the other hand, if you have, say, soap film and hard mineral deposit on your glass shower stall door, or if you have baked-in food on the glass of your oven, you can try using a "glass cleaner" until you drop, but you're never going to be able to clean that stuff off your glass surface!

Do you follow me so far? OK, then, what's a "marble cleaner"? Something that cleans marble surfaces no matter what kind of soil you have sitting on it? Not by a long shot. For starters, you'll never get away with ONE "marble cleaner". In fact, there's no way that you can clean, say, your marble shower stall from soap film, hard-mineral deposits and mildew, with the "marble cleaner" you use to clean your marble floor, or your vanity top. They are totally different types of soil.

Now, let's understand marble. It's a calcite-based rock that has a very delicate and somewhat unstable chemistry. Calcite (Calcium Carbonate) reacts in "strange" ways to harsh chemicals, especially of an acidic nature. If something acidic hits a marble surface, the Calcium Carbonate will immediately go to work to neutralize (kill) the acid (that's way most heartburn remedies are made mostly of Calcium Carbonate). What happens is that the Calcite gives itself up in order to neutralize the acid. In other words they kill each other. If the marble surface happens to be polished to a high gloss (by the way, the gloss on a marble surface is produced mechanically, by abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by applying some sort of finish onto it), then the damage will appear like a dull spot that looks like a "water spot", but that is actually an etch mark, that is a surface damage, not a stain (no matter what it looks like).

The chemistry of most household cleaning products available off the shelves of the supermarket is typically too harsh for marble, therefore those products will no doubt clean whatever soil they were designed to remove from the marble surface, but they will clean off some of the marble, as well, by corroding it. Therefore, a "marble cleaner" (in its different formulations, accordingly with the soil it has to deal with) it's a cleaner that will remove the soil off the marble surface, while leaving the marble alone. Needless to say, it will also work fine on any other surface it's applied on. Typically, "marble cleaner" are either neutral (pH 7, also referred to as pH balanced), or alkaline (but with specific chemical characteristics).

All that said, as you can easily understand, there's nothing "miraculous" about "marble cleaners" (although there's a company out there calling itself Miracle...), so, if I were you I wouldn't get too much worked up about finding such "Natural" brand. If you have no problem, so far, with your marble, any good "marble cleaner" will do just fine. If you do have a problem instead, chances are that you'll never going to be able to solve it with a cleaner. If you do have a problem, feel free to tell me about it. Best of luck! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact
I read your note with interest and appreciate the work and effort you went to in explaining your thoughts. Sincerely, Sultan. Reply

Q 1022: Care: Help!  How can I restore luster to a slate floor on the balcony.  It is in the sun and salt air and has paint splattered on it.  It looks cloudy, dull, and lifeless!  It was sealed when it was installed 7-8 yrs ago. Helen, USA. June 27 reply

R1: Firstly you will need to use a proprietary product to strip the old sealer. You can be quite vigorous in removing the paint (?coarse sanding) as it will blend in after re-sealing.  I suggest mopping the floor a couple of times to collect some of the salt from the stone prior to resealing.. Remember to change the water regularly.  Regular application of sealants is advisable (~4years) to keep a protective coating on the slate and cut down on the work in the long run. Jim Man, Australia, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1024: Care: We have been having problems with Nero Assoluto (Absolute Black) staining from a variety of causes. We seal with Delta products, and have had no problems with any other granite. Is it it's low porosity, Or possibly that it is so (relatively) featureless? Steve, UK. June 27 reply

R1: A good deal of the problems of staining associated with absolute black is indeed because of the lack of "graining" which makes everything show more. Most other patterns do a much better job of hiding stains and water marks etc... It is not really much different in density than other granites, so its porosity should not be a factor. Sealing of the product is critical to minimise the possibility of staining. You may wish to try another brand of sealer. One other "trick" for removing stains is to use a mixture of hydrogen peroxide mixed with white bread. Make a dough of it and smush it on the stain. Let it set for a while and the stain should leach out into the bread. Hope that helps! Bill, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

R2: I sure would love to have more specifics about the type of staining you've been experiencing with absolute black. They way you say it sounds ... kind of unheard of. Such stone should be pretty much problem-free. Yes, you're right, it is very dense (therefore the use of a sealer is pretty much useless, in my opinion). In fact, we never seal "Nero Assoluto". Anyway, let me know more and, maybe, I'll be able to help. Maurizio, USA. Expert Panelist, Contact 

A 1017: I have a marble countertop that no longer has a shine. Can the marble be stained a color (for ex., green)?  How can I restore a shine to the surface? Pam, USA. June 23 reply

R1: Using natural care products you should be able to bring back a lot of the original shine and look to your marble. (I am assuming you have natural marble.) If you have manmade (cultured) marble, use a good not abrasive cleaner like Gel Gloss or Hope polish on it. Most times if it is dull is "scratched" because of abrasives in the cleaners used. Cultured marble can be buffed by hand by using a good automotive buffing solution (car polish type) or even better use a power buffer like you would use to buff automobiles, using the same compounds and you can bring back the shine as long as there is still "clearcoat/gelcoat" in sufficent thickness left on the marble. A heavy duty buffing like this is a 1 or 2 times in its lifetime sort of thing so once you get it buffed, be sure to use a completely non abrasive cleaner as mentioned above to prevent re-occurance. Good luck! Bill, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

R2: The answer to the first question is NO, period. The answer to your second question is NO (without period!). What I mean is that while it's just impossible to stain marble, it is very possible to re-polish your marble countertop, but it is something that no homeowner -- no matter how "handy" -- can do. The equipment can't be rented, and the materials involved (honing elements and polishing powders) are not available at your local hardware store. Not to mention the professionalism that's involved, which is the utmost requirement. I say that stone refinishing is the pinnacle of all stone-related activities. You need a professional stone refinisher. Look on the Yellow Pages under the heading: "Marble and Terrazzo cleaning", or inquire with several local tile showrooms and marble fabrication shops. Good luck! Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1015: Care: We just purchased a home with limestone floors.  We don't know how to take care of them or anything about limestone. Rhonda, USA. June 21. reply

R1: Limestone floors usually have a relatively high water absorption (compared to granite) and are light coloured, therefore they are susceptible to staining.  To avoid this they must be sealed and the sealant maintained.  A good way of telling if the surface needs resealing is to place a drop of water in a high traffic area a another in a low traffic area and watch them bead and soak in.  A drop of water on a well sealed floor will sit high on the floor and take a while to soak in.  The drop will soak in quicker a s the sealant deteriorates.  For regular maintenance, avoid wet mopping the floor, instead use a dry mop regularly and a damp mop when necessary.  A wet mop will tend to carry any dirt into the tile even if it is sealed.  Sealers only reduce the staining potential. Jim Man, Australia, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1014: Care:  I would like to know if after installation the things that you need to know about the upkeep of granite.  Does it stain?  Does it crack?  Is there ever a "bad batch" of granite?  How often does it need to be sealed, etc.? Dbrown, USA. June 20 reply

R1: The quality of granite varies, but in general it has a low water absorption, high abrasion resistance and high strength.  This means it has good stain resistance, shouldn't show wear (some blacks may show tracking) and shouldn't crack after laying if laid correctly.  The most important maintenance issues are maintaining the shine and minimising stains.
Maintain the shine by reducing the introduction of grit - use mats outside. Clean the floor regularly with a dry or damp (not wet) mop.  If necessary use a neutral pH detergent to clean very grubby areas. Tracking on darker monotone colours may be a problem.  In a home this may be reduced by periodically changing traffic paths eg. moving furniture where possible.
Granites are very dense with low porosity so they shouldn't need sealing. Attend to spills as soon as possible by blotting up liquids and using minimal liquid to clean up drier stains (water can carry the stain into the stone).  If stains do occur, various methods can be used - a web search under stone, stain and the staining agent will get you some useful advice. Regards, Jim Man, Australia, Expert panelist. Contact
R2: You ask if the granite stains.  Well, it might. You see our beloved stone industry is, alas, pretty much totally unregulated. When they find a stone in some corner of our blessed planet that take a polish and doesn't look like marble, they label it as "granite", no matter  what the heck that stone is. As a consequance, the vast majority of the stones traded as "granite" are in fact related to granite like a cat to a cow. Granite (the real one, that is) is more porous than marble (approx. twice as much). But then there are stones like labradorites, basaltic, etc. that are much denser and virtually water-proof (therefore they will not stain). At the other end of the spectrum, we have stones (gneiss, anitrites, metamorphic sandstones, quarzites, etc.) that are as absorbent as a sponge and will stain like crazy. So to give an answer to your question, one must know what kind of "granite" you have.
As far as cracking is concerned, it's a possibility that's only connected with poor installation, not the type of stone. Yes, of course, there can be a bad batch, like with any other natural product. Unfortunately, however, since there's not any official grading, you're at the mercy of the dealer's ethics. Finally, the sealing is advisable only with "absorbent granites", therefore the answer is consequent to the type of "granite" you have. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1010: Care: I am starting a cleaning business and I am interested in cleaning public buildings. This of course would include cleaning of sandstone, granite and marble. Could you please send me some good reference texts. John, Australia. June 19 reply
R1: All you will ever need to CLEAN natural stone floors is a good professional-grade mop, some good pH neutral detergent, and plenty of good ol' tap water. The funny thing is -- you will soon find out -- that the persons in charge of maintenance of the buildings you'll be servicing won't be much interested in that, however. They will expect you to keep those floors as shiny as they were on the day of the cutting of the ribbon! And at this point, cleaning has nothing to do with it. That is stone surface refinishing and it represents the pinnacle of all the stone related activities. >From a professional knowledge point of view, in fact, stone refinishing is much more demanding than setting or fabricating. It makes sense: it doesn't take an expert to make the human body -- just some passionate lovemaking! -- but it does take an expert (a doctor) to take care of it! The reason why stone refinishing is so professionally demanding is because Mother Nature made stone so different from one another. Not one marble is the same of the next one, therefore, you can't treat all marbles the same way. In other words, it is not a standard procedure.

If this is beginning to sound scary (and it should), wait until you get into granite! Just consider this: the vast majority of the stone traded as "granite" are in fact related to granite like a cat to a cow! And this is not my opinion, it's a geological fact. Of course, in your search for THE solution you will meet with a whole army of salesmen touting their miraculous one-medicine-cure-all, and so-easy-that-even-an-idiot-can-do-it! There are even a couple of companies here in the US selling their franchise! (Franchising something that can't be standard? ... Wow!). You may even go for one of them, but -- mark my words now -- you will eventually find out that there's no substitute for professionalism. Nobody can become a surgeon by just watching one while operating for a couple of days! Of course, all that doesn't mean that you should give up; it only means that if you're serious about it you should consult with serious professionals and stay away from the quacks. You're starting with the right approach: you're asking for reliable publications on the subject. I don't know about anything else, but I think that the technical papers that I've been publishing over the years could be helpful. If nothing else, you will find out that the only things the salesmen ever published are some fancy brochures! If you want, you can contact me at our website and I'll be glad to e-mail you our publications at no charge. Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1008: Care: I was wondering what your thoughts are on applying a protective clear coating to stone and brick exterior walls. I've read a lot of conflicting information. What types of preservative clear coatings are available and what are their pros and cons? Finally, is applying a preservative something I can do myself or do I need to hire someone? (What are the steps I should take in determining if I need to apply the coating or not, who to hire, etc?) USA. June 14 reply

R1: First of all decide on why you want to coat the stone.  Is it for stain resistance, additional strength, graffiti resistance, increased durability. The product you choose will depend on your reason.  When applying a coating, stones especially must be allowed to breathe, that is, allow the transmission of water vapour. The application of a impermeable coating may result in irreparable damage by spalling of the surface caused by build up of pressure form water - especially in high frost areas.  Most of the chemicals used are hazardous, so if you do apply them protective equipment is essential. Jim Man, Australia, Expert Panelist. Contact

A 1007: Care: I'm gathering information on stone care maintenance and restoration. I need information with companies providing this type service. Thank you.
Carlos, USA. June 13 reply

R1: Look no more! You can get in touch with me and perhaps we could talk business. Fair enough? Good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist. Contact

e 1606 USA: I am attempting to find the product "Dress Slate" that I used several years ago on my interior slate floor.  It is a petroleum-based product. I have not been able to locate the company nor anyone who carries the product. Is it available?  If not, what product can I use over Dress Slate? I don't want to remove the existing material if it can be avoided. June 7 contact

R1: You must find out other name for your slate, for "Dress slate" is common name for a slate given to required size. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist. Reply 

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Dear Maurizio, I enjoy your rebuttals and my mind has been "tweaked" by your talks about
impregnators/ sealants.  I would like to know more about your products, both from a manufacturing use--and from a possible retail position.  Will you consider O.E.M. (private label) your products (sealers, cleansing agents etc.) to us, a large marble manufacturer? Jay, USA